Enchanted Galapagos

Islas Incantadas: Incantadas The Enchanted

Galapagos Islands

P hot ography an d Text © 2008 Mic hael L u stbader “Islands lost in time”, “Enchanted isles”—all of these phrases have been used to describe the islands off the coast of Ecuador called Galapagos. I had heard about the Galapagos islands all my life, had watched Marlin Perkins, the host of “Zoo Parade”, land there in the 50’s and step over iguanas, and had read the books and wondered at the photographs of others who had made the journey.

ABOVE: Galapagos Giant Tortoise (Geochelone elephantophus)

UPPER RIGHT: Marine Iguana (Amblyrhynchus cristatus), Espanola (Hood) Island. “Their limbs and strong claws are admirably adapted for crawling over the rugged and fissured masses of lava.” Charles Darwin

None of these things, however, truly prepared me for the liquid gaze of a sea lion pup, quite unfazed by my presence, the rather myopic once-over given me by a tortoise who had already lived two of my lifetimes and was probably headed for one or two more, or the curiosity of a warbler who perched totally unconcerned on my lens, complaining raucously when I gently shooed him away so I could resume photographing.

I invite you to accompany me on a brief introductory journey to a magical place off the coast of South America.

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The Galapagos Archipelago consists of a cluster of 17 Islands, located 600 miles due west of the coast of Ecuador. Originally the tips of submerged volcanos, they rise as much as 10,000 feet from the floor of the Pacific Ocean. Although the Islands had been used as a stopping-off place since the 1500s by sailors, whalers, and pirates, they did not become “famous” until the 1800s. In September of 1835, HMS Beagle visited the Galapagos on a fairly typical (for that time) mission of exploration, carrying on board a young naturalist named Charles Darwin. ISLAS INCANTADAS: THE ENCHANTED GALAPAGOS ISLANDS

Only a small part of the voyage of the Beagle (less, in fact, than the month of September) was dedicated to the Galapagos Islands, which were named after a species of tortoise found only here. The segment of Darwin’s “The Origin of Species” devoted to his time at the Galapagos is actually a rather small part of the book.

Imagine yourself then, on the deck of the Beagle, approaching dry land for the first time in weeks. One might think that after countless days on board, young Mr. Darwin would be thrilled to see any land. Darwin’s reaction was somewhat different, however.

“Nothing could be less inviting than the first appearance. A broken field of black, basaltic lava, thrown into the most rugged waves and crossed by great fissures, is everywhere covered by stunted, sun-burnt brushwood, which shows little signs of life.” Charles Darwin

He was greeted by the sight of cactus growing on bleak lava fields, a far cry from the verdant green of England, many weeks behind him. An almost-desert environment, complete with an unrelenting equatorial sun.

ISLAS INCANTADAS: THE ENCHANTED GALAPAGOS ISLANDS

Darwin’s reaction was not unique; his initial impression echoed that of the first Europeans to become involved with the Islands--the Spanish.

“I do not think there is a place where one might sow a bushel of corn, because most of it is full of very big stones. so much so, that it seems as though some time God had showered stones...” Fray Tomas Eps. Locastelli Auril 26 April 1535

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ISLAS INCANTADAS: THE ENCHANTED GALAPAGOS ISLANDS

Below: Rocks and patterns in lava on some islands, as far as the eye could see.

Above: Lava Tube, formed by cooling of lava. As a lava flow cools, the outside forms a hollow crust as the molten rock on the inside is still flowing.

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ISLAS INCANTADAS: THE ENCHANTED GALAPAGOS ISLANDS

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There were typical endemic plants, adapted to the desert environment most common to these Islands: Opuntia cactus saltbush carpetweed (Sesuvium) All adapted to surviving in an environment with limited rainfall.

Many islands had rugged rocky sea cliffs, and there were sand and lava beaches. The one below is adorned by the skeleton of a whale, either beached or a remnant of one of the earliest of the Islands’ industries--whaling.

But what fascinated the young naturalist most was the varied and unique wildlife inhabiting the Galapagos Islands. ISLAS INCANTADAS: THE ENCHANTED GALAPAGOS ISLANDS

The most famous resident of the Islands--the Galapagos Tortoise. Total population about 15,000. Almost wiped out by sailors (tortoises survive for months without food or water--an ideal unspoiling source of protein for long sea voyages). Their current enemies include rats, feral cats and pigs (egg-eaters). They survive 150 and 200 years if undisturbed. Darwin was not alone in his fascination with these unique animals.

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“The great feeling inspired by these creatures was that of age: –dateless, indefinite endurance.” Herman Melville wrote in his magazine serial of the Galapagos, “Encantadas”, in 1854.

“The tortoise is very fond of water, drinking large quantities and wallowing in the mud.” Charles Darwin

Like all reptiles and amphibians, tortoises are poikilothermic, or cold-blooded. Their body temperature is determined by the temperature of their environment. They wallow to keep cool in in a tropical environment.

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ISLAS INCANTADAS: THE ENCHANTED GALAPAGOS ISLANDS

Left: “The larger islands possess springs, situated in the central portions at a

considerable height. Tortoises frequent the lower parts and when thirsty are obliged to travel from a long distance.” Charles Darwin

A stroll of two days for a drink would not be unusual.

Right: They also provide a local taxi and buffet service. The cattle egret feeds upon the insects stirred up as the tortoises lumber along. “As I walked along I met two large tortoises, each of which must have weighed two hundred pounds: one was eating a piece of cactus, and as I approached, it stared at me and slowly stalked away; the other gave a deep hiss, and drew in its head.” Charles Darwin

Darwin writes of one incident where 700 tortoises were carried to the beach and packed into the hold of one whaling ship, to provide food for the crew on the long voyage home. We had ample evidence of how unafraid and defenseless these ancient creatures are. Left: Nancy and friends at local watering hole.

ISLAS INCANTADAS: THE ENCHANTED GALAPAGOS ISLANDS

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From one extreme to another. The tortoise is inexorably connected to the earth. The Frigatebird (also called man o' war because it’s a pirate) lands only to breed and take care of chicks (both parents).

Frigatebirds seen here riding the thermals and easily keeping pace with our ship. They may spend months at sea.

Two male frigatebirds, displaying their throat pouches to attract females. (one case where size does matter...)

“Eyes, beak, and feet were dull, but out of this somberness, like fire out of lava, billowed the burning scarlet of the enormous breast pouch.” William Beebe

The Galapagos hosts other extremes of nature, from the Frigatebird, which has an essentially airborne life, to the Flightless Cormorant, which cannot fly and whose short stubby wings are adapted only for swimming. It is shown here incubating its eggs. Most seabirds care for their eggs as a pair, with both male and female taking turns sitting on the nest and fishing. ISLAS INCANTADAS: THE ENCHANTED GALAPAGOS ISLANDS

Below: Galapagos Mockingbird. Fearless and somewhat difficult to photograph because it kept trying to eat my tripod.

Below: Nazca or Masked booby

A rather iconic image

Feeding baby is a dangerous occupation. Again, both parents fish and then return to take over child-rearing responsibilities.

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ISLAS INCANTADAS: THE ENCHANTED GALAPAGOS ISLANDS

Species often intermingle, alone or in breeding colonies. This marine iguana is a seaweed feeder and harmless to the birds, their eggs and young.

American oystercatcher--a frequent and common visitor to the islands.

Brown pelican and buddy

ISLAS INCANTADAS: THE ENCHANTED GALAPAGOS ISLANDS

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Right: Galapagos Flycatcher (Lustbader’s Taxonomy: LBB “Little Brown Bird”)

Above, left: Greater Flamingo is attracted to saltwater lagoons. It stirs the water with its feet and then uses its beak to filter out shrimp and small crustaceans. The color intensity of its pink feathers is diet-related, specifically to small pink shrimp.

Right: As the flamingo walks, it swings its beak back and forth, snapping it shut when it senses something within.

ISLAS INCANTADAS: THE ENCHANTED GALAPAGOS ISLANDS

Above: Great blue heron at sunrise.

Right: Blue footed booby on cliff face

Right: Blue-footed booby with egg on ground--no nest. Will often lay its egg right in the middle of a path. The name”booby” is not an exaggeration.

Black-necked stilt. Unlike the oystercatcher, an uncommon visitor to the islands.

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Left: A Sally Lightfoot crab (Grapsus grapsus). No one seems to know who Sally Lightfoot was. One of the few animals of the Galapagos to show fear of man. Perhaps because our vertical posture is similar to that of the Great blue heron--its principal predator.

“Hosts of Sally Lightfoots were the most brilliant spots of color above water in these Islands, shaming the dull drab hues of the terrestrial organisms and hinting of the glories of colorful animal life beneath the surface of the sea.” William Beebe

Below: Their natural habitat is the intertidal zone. They are seaweed and algae eaters as well as scavengers.

Right: The Sentinel

ISLAS INCANTADAS: THE ENCHANTED GALAPAGOS ISLANDS

Among their enemies (herons, gulls, seals) they must number their own kind as well. They are cannibalistic. The loser becomes lunch.

These are all the same species, at different stages of growth. They range from the dark green, almost black of the young crabs, to the bright crimson and blue of the adults. “When such an outburst of crabs occurred…, darting out of all possible and impossible cracks and crevices of the lava, they appeared…as reminders of the sparks and flames which once reddened these great beaches and these plains with mountains of lava.” William Beebe

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ISLAS INCANTADAS: THE ENCHANTED GALAPAGOS ISLANDS

Below: The crabs remove excess salt from their systems by shooting it out of glands on the underside of their carapace

Below: Sally on a volcanic beach. They certainly don’t believe in protective coloration.

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ISLAS INCANTADAS: THE ENCHANTED GALAPAGOS ISLANDS

Another creature found only in these islands:

“The Amblyrhinchus, a remarkable genus of lizards, is confined to this archipelago: here are two species, resembling each other in general form, one being terrestrial, and the other aquatic.” Charles Darwin

The marine iguana’s claws keeps the animal attached to the undersea rocks where they dine on algae and seaweed in spite of crashing waves and strong undertow. The coloration of the marine iguana varies according to the Island it inhabits.

Unlike modern naturalists, who try to be objective in descriptions of their subjects, Darwin showed no such concern.

“It is a hideous looking creature, of a dirty black color, stupid and sluggish in its movements.” Charles Darwin

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ISLAS INCANTADAS: THE ENCHANTED GALAPAGOS ISLANDS

He was however impressed with their adaptation to a hostile environment and admitted that they didn’t taste badly. Darwin was so repulsed by these animals that he later, in another monograph, called them “imps from hell”.

“A group of six or seven of these hideous reptiles may oftentimes be seen on the black rocks, a few feet above the surf, basking in the sun with outstretched legs.” Charles Darwin

Left: Marine iguana in nursery burrow

Above: a moment of tenderness. This is an example of the “other” creature Darwin referred to--the land iguana

“Like their brothers of the sea-kind, they are ugly animals: from their low facial angle they have a singularly stupid appearance.” Charles Darwin “They inhabit burrows which they sometimes make between fragments of lava, but more generally on level patches of the soft sandstone-like tuff.” Charles Darwin

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ISLAS INCANTADAS: THE ENCHANTED GALAPAGOS ISLANDS

Left: The Opuntia cactus represents shade, food, and drink to these animals. “They can scarcely taste a drop of water throughout the year, but they consume much of the succulent cactus.” Charles Darwin

Above: They also graze on the white flowers of sesuvium (carpetweed)

Right: Lava lizards are also adapted to life on the rocks and mingle with their larger but harmless vegetarian cousins

“Another feature in these isles is their emphatic uninhabitableness…. Little but reptile life is found here…No voice, no howl is heard; the chief sound here is a hiss…” Herman Melville (who obviously never visited a nesting bird colony).

ISLAS INCANTADAS: THE ENCHANTED GALAPAGOS ISLANDS

We were here at sunrise, but still too late to glimpse the creator of these tracks...

A sea turtle

NEXT...

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ISLAS INCANTADAS: THE ENCHANTED GALAPAGOS ISLANDS

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There are mammals living on the islands, one of the most captivating being the Galapagos sea lion.

Napping in a tide pool

ISLAS INCANTADAS: THE ENCHANTED GALAPAGOS ISLANDS

Quality time...

Beachmaster with harem

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ISLAS INCANTADAS: THE ENCHANTED GALAPAGOS ISLANDS

Right: Galapagos fur seal, almost decimated by hunters, now on the comeback trail.

Below: This little one posed for me for almost an hour.

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ISLAS INCANTADAS: THE ENCHANTED GALAPAGOS ISLANDS

Thank you for accompanying me back to this magical and fascinating place. The “Enchanted Islands”, indeed.

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ISLAS INCANTADAS: THE ENCHANTED GALAPAGOS ISLANDS

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On a technical note, 90% of the images shown here were taken with the Nikon 70-200mm F2.8 G IF-ED VR AF-S lens on a tripod. I used the 1.4mm telextender sparingly, and the 300mm F4 even more sparingly. There were times when I pined for a longer lens for smaller birds, but for the most part, I was satisfied with my lens choice. My other workhorse lens was the AF-S DX VR Zoom-NIKKOR 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6G IFED. (You have to love a lens whose name is longer than the lens itself...). I was satisfied with the results as long as I took care to stop down and watch which filters I used at which f-stop. I used the medium Really Right Stuff ball head (BH40) with the lever release and found it excellent with the 70-200 and adequate with the 300. I left my beloved 200mm MicroNikkor at home to save weight (I figured this wouldn’t be a macro trip) and regretted it almost every day. Other precautions: After spending most of every day in a saltwater environment, I wiped down my tripod head and legs with fresh water. Yes, I know--carbon fiber doesn’t corrode, but salt water makes everything sticky.

Back-up: Super-redundant. I backed up to: 1. Laptop 2. Flashtrax by Smartdisk--an 80GB battery-powered external drive. I feel more comfortable with a back-up which is NOT dependent upon the laptop, as the bus-powered drives are. 3. DVD (This was especially vital for my second trip because almost 30% of the files became corrupted somewhere along the line, but the images burnt to DVD were fine).

Another thing I learned the hard way was not to travel with long lenses attached to camera bodies. When my pack strap broke in the Quito airport and the bag hit the concrete from about 4 feet up, the lens plate on one camera was almost pulled off of the camera. I finished the trip without a back-up and considered myself very fortunate to do so.

Thanks to Ronn Patterson, of Dolphin Charters, for putting together a great itinerary, and to Nancy for allowing me to participate.

“‘Bye, ‘bye...”