Cosmetic Delivery Systems

RECENT ADVANCES IN COSMETIC DELIVERY SYSTEMS

PRESENTED BY MURTAZA.H.SHAKIR T.Y.B.PHARM

NEED FOR NEW DELIVERY TECHNIQUES Cosmetics are substances used to enhance or protect the appearance or odour of the human body. 

Supply multiple benefits with minimal efforts.

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Cosumer perceivable benefits

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To optimize sensory attributes

Multifunctional products that focus on treatment as well as aesthetic

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APPLICATION AREAS IN WHICH DELIVER SYSTEMS ARE USEFUL

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Sunscreens, anti-wrinkles, antioxidant delivery. Flavour and fagrance delivery.

In hair care for nutrient delivery, antistatic agents, conditioning agents. 

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Humectants and Deodrants .

NOVEL COSMETIC DELIVERY SYSTEMS 1.

Vesicular systems  

1.

Emulsions    

1.

Liposomes Silicone vescicles and matrices. Microemulsions Multiple emulsions Nanoemulsions Pickering emulsions

Particulate Systems   

Microparticles Nanoparticles Cyclodextrin Comlexes

VESICULAR SYSTEMS LIPOSOMES: •

Lipid vesicles composed of one or more lipid bilayer surrounding an equal number of aqueous compartments.

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Diameter 25-5000nm

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Ampiphillic molecules

•

Most important are phospahtidyl choline and phosphatidyl ethanolamine

WHY LIPOSOMES  Very similar in construction to the actual cell membrane.  Helps to fix active ingrediant to the outermost skinlayer.  Empty liposomes to improve skin condition.  Decreases permiation rate. LIMITATIONS • Leakage of contents • Presence of oxidation products

APPLICATION IN COSMETICS  humectants. E.g. polyols  Sunscreens. E.g. octyl methoxycinnamate  vitamins. E.g. vitamin E, A and C.  antidandruff. E.g. selenium salts

Sweet Almond Oil is rich in fatty acids and proteins to nourish the skin. Aloe Vera stimulates the healing process, injured and stressed skin is soothed. Ginkgo Biloba neutralizes free radicals, one of the causes of aging. It also improves capillary blood flow and strengthens tissues. Coconut Oil is also used to decrease rough, dry skin.

Before Application

Powdery, bad-toned, rough, and dry skin

After Application EXTRASOME® AQUA twice a day to the skin of a male in his 40s

Not powdery, well-toned, moist, and fresh

SILICONE VESICLES AND MATRICES Cross-linked silicone polymer composed of polyether modified dimethicone.(silicone elastomer blend, SEB)  silicone resins reacted with certain silicone fluids.  silicon hydride (SiH) reacts with a vinyl group (CH=CH2) Me3SiO-(MeSiO)x(MeSiO)y(Me2SiO)zSiMe3 (CH2)n

R

Me3SiO-(MeSiO)x(MeSiO)y(Me2SiO)zSiMe3 R  Diameter 0.05 to 1 micron

WHY SILICONES? Polyether Silicone

 Highly flexible bilayer.  Stable to high temperatures(90ºC).  Quick evaporation of low mol. wt. cyclic silicones.  High values of thixotropy.  smooth, silky, non-greasy and reduced irritancy.

Lipophilic Actives

Hydrophilic Actives

APPLICATION IN COSMETICS  Vitamins such as vitamin C, A, E and H

 conditoning agents such as gelatin

 Emolliants such as jojoba oil

 Humectants

 Antiperspirant Salts

Blush with silk-like texture and sweat control formula which makes your beautiful makeup stay for long hours. It contains Silicone Elastomer, Low-melting Point Wax and Sebum Control Powder, which effectively smooth and brighten up your skin with natural glow.

MICROEMULSIONS Thermodynamically stable system.  A system of water, oil and ampiphile.  Diameter is less than 0.22µm  Solubilize both hydrophilic and lipophilic agents. Advantages and Cosmetic application:  Avoids use of alcohol in pefuming products  Vitamin E microemulsions are highly resistant to oxidation in air Low viscosity compared to other emulsions.

MULTIPLE EMULSIONS  Globules of the dispersed phase encapsulate smaller droplets.  Two major types O/W/O and W/O/W. Advantages and Application:  Prolonged skin moisturizers.  Incorporates two incompatible hydrophilic actives.  O/W/O type has been used as sun protection cream.

NANOEMULSIONS  O/W emulsion .  For protection and makeup of skin, mucosa , hair and scap.  Comprises of 2 to 15% of oil phase.  Sufactants used are categorised as GRAS.

Bioxil Daily Cel-Repair is specially formulated to provide an all-in-one solution to address skin damage due to prolonged sun exposure, environmental aggression and aging process. Contains a unique blend of antioxidants from fruits and plant extracts, and nano-emulsion of Co-Q 10 to increase skin humidity, giving the skin a smooth and silky feel.

ADVANTAGES AND APPLICATION.  High surface area. Non-sticky, non-oily and easy to spread.  Does not present phototoxicity and allergeniciy.  Reduces Trans Epidermal Water Loss.  High cepability of keeping skin moisturized      

moisturizing lotions perfumed water makeup remover hair products scalp products gels

PICKERING EMULSIONS  Solid stabilized, surfactant free emulsions.  Nanometer sized particle of biodegradable polymers. Compound

Emulsion Type Stabilized

Alumina

W/O

Betonite

O/W

Magnesium Aluminum Silicate

O/W

Fat

W/O

Magnesium Oxide

W/O

Magnesium Trisilicate

W/O

Titanium Dioxide (coated)

O/W, W/O

Silica

O/W

Tin Oxide

O/W

ADVANTAGES AND APPLICATIONS  Avoids the use of non-ionic or ionic surfactants.  Non irritant due to use of biodegradable polymers.  Paticles may themselves may have cosmetic application (TiO2 or ZnO).

 Sunscreens  Shamopoos  Conditioners  Vitamin formulations

MICROPARTICLES  Conventional microencapsulation.  Consist of inner core and outer coating material.  Diameter in range of 1 to 1000µm.  Protects, stabilizes or delays release of core.

ADVANTAGES AND APPLICATIONS  reduces the activity of core to outside environment.  Reduces evaporation to outside environment.  Enhances topical absoption of actives and Controled release of fragrances.  Greasy feel and bad odour is avoided

Super Sun Protection Dermatologic Cosmetic Labs introduces its UVA/UVB Superblock SPF 30, a very water-resistant, broadspectrum physical sunblock featuring highly refined, micronized titanium dioxide and transparent zinc oxide to help prevent sunburn and protect against the visible signs of aging.

NANOPARTICLES

 Submicron colloidal system having diameter of 0.003-1µm.  Lipid vesicles formed by lipid bilayer. Made of biodegrdable polymers.

Correlation of particle size with concentrations of lecithin and oil Lecithin

Particle Size

Oil Core

2.5%

100 nm

18%

2.5%

200 nm

42%

4%

50 nm

10%

6%

40 nm

10%

ADVANTAGES AND APPLICATION  Protection against degradation.  Occlusive , without use of greasy oils.  Enhanced hydration due.  Nanoparticles shows UV-bloking potential.

H2O

H2O

H2O

H2O

H2O

Small particles Small pores hydration Skin

H2O

Large pores Water evaporation

H2O

H2O

H2O

H2O

Large particles Skin

 sunscreens  retinoids  tocopherol  perfumes  Coenzyme Q10

CYCLODEXTRIN COMLEXES

 Cyclodextrins (CDs) are cyclic oligosaccharides containing a minimum of six d-(+)-glucopyranose units attached by a glucosidic bonds.  All the hydroxyl groups in Cyclodextrins are oriented to the outside of the ring.  hydrophobic inner cavity and a hydrophilic exterior. The cyclodextrins, by themselves, are natural, non-toxic additives.

ADVANTAGES AND APPLICATION  Through CD complexation it is possible to obtain controlled release of fragrances.  Reduce or eliminate undesired odors  Cyclodextrin (CD) complexation of fragrance materials increases their solubility and reduces or prevents their evaporation.  Protection against decomposition, oxidation, hydrolysis, or loss by evaporation.  prfuming products  vitamims  gels Anti-shine day cream with Tea Tree Oil for oily skins … An antishine, sebum-regulating skincare

DELIVERY DEVICES 1) IONTOPHORESIS

2) COSMETIC PATCHES

FUTURE TRENDS  Liposomes and nanoemulsion do not disturb the integrity of skin lipid bilayer.

 evolution of cosmetic patches.

 sonophoresis and electroporation.

Name

Supplier

Application

Natipide II Liposome

Rhone-Poulenc

Reinforces skin’s own retention capabilities

Photosome

Applied Genetics

Sun-care products

Microsponge

Advanced Polymer System

High payload; improves

moisture

cosmetic elegance of liquid LipoCD-SA

Lipo chemicals

Able to deliver oils in powder form

Unispheres

Induchem

Less sensitive to pH and surfactants; pleasing visual effect

Orgasol

Elf Atochem

Improves skin feel and adhesion, offers controlled delivery. And protection to variety of hydrophilic, lipophilic substances

SUMMARY  Potential to develop as the “New generation smarter carrier systems”

 To enhance the safety, stability, extended efficacy and aesthetic appeal.

 Consumer appeal.

THANK YOU