Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
COLOGNE June - July 2006
Football events Win or lose, this is where to party
River tours
Wine and dine on the Rhine
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Herzlich Willkommen!
Contents
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Contents Arriving
5
Getting there and oriented
In Your Pocket begrüßt in seiner Reihe der Stadtführer auch diese schöne Stadt.
History
6
From Roman invasion to football invasion
Die In Your Pocket City Guides verstehen sich als kostenlose Stadtführer.Unsere Zielgruppe ist klar! Unsere Leser besuchen die Stadt und wissen weder was die Butter in Hamburg kostet, noch warum die Münchner blasse Wurst essen und wo diese wirklich schmeckt.
Glossary
7
The basics
Events
8
What’s going on
Unsere Leser sind Touristen und Geschäftsreisende: sie möchten sich die Stadt ansehen, Vorführungen genießen, Essen & Trinken, Postkarten schreiben, oder in ihrer freien Zeit Ausstellungen besuchen und ein typisches Souvenir kaufen.
World Cup events
11
Football-related festivities
Kölsch
12
Watery local delight
Aber unsere Leser sprechen kein Wort Deutsch!
Festivals
Wir geben den internationalen Reisenden ausführliche Informationen über Ihr Unternehmen und präsentieren Ihre Leistungen in englischer Sprache.
13
Join in the party
Where to stay
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14
From park bench to Park Grand
Restaurants Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
FRaNkFuRt
MuNiCH
Hotels restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events maps
CologNE
June - July 2006
april - May 2006
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Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
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Visiting Brühl Castle, or shopping in Bonn?
Museums by night
Getting around
Join the all-night culture fest
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lEipzig
June - July 2006
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Hotels restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing events maps
Football events
River tours
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Wine and dine on the Rhine
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RuHRgEbiEt
Nuremberg
June - July 2006
June - July 2006
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Down in the docks
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Harbour tours
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Trains, planes and taxis
Football events
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Revamped In Your Pocket
kaiSERSlautERN
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Daytrips
June - July 2006
New Look
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
What to see
HaNovER
June - July 2006
Revamped In Your Pocket
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28
Sights in and around town
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
Hamburg
June - July 2006
Nightlife Bars, clubs and general debauchery
From fine dining to fast food
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Mail & Phones
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Heed your calling
Hotels restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
Stuttgart including Dortmund, gelsenkirchen, Essen and bochum
Shopping
June - July 2006
Ruhrpott industrial tourism
41
Souvenirs, food and books
Up towers, down shafts
automobiles going medieval
Visiting Mercedes and Porsche
Football events
Win or lose, this is where to party
A tour through the old town
Directory
Football events
Win or lose, this is where to party
Football events
Win or lose, this is where to party
Win or lose, this is where to party
Brought back to life
Going Palatine Strolling in the forest
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Banks, pharmacies and hairdressers
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Maps & Index
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tel: +49 (0)30 27907981,
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Street register City map Transport map Index
45 46-47 48-49 50 June - July 2006
4
arriVing
ForeWord Cologne is a city that has a strong sense of identity and individuality. Whether you are spending a week or two getting to know the city or just passing through you are left with a sense that there was more to see and do. The museums are amongst the best and most renowned in Europe, the cathedral and various churches throughout the city are virtually painted with history, the music scene is thriving and the beer is a world unto itself. Best of all; Cologne is a city that likes tourists. The Koelsch people are proud of their city, and they love to show it off. After witnessing Carnival it is hard to imagine Cologne ever being more boisterous, but there may be surprises left in store when the World Cup knocks at the door. Enjoy Cologne, and remember to write in to
[email protected] with your experiences in town, and your opinion of this guide.
City guides to 40 cities around Europe online free: www.inyourpocket.com
Welcome to Cologne If you haven’t seen Cologne, you haven’t seen Germany” - this ancient Roman saying is as relevant today as it was 2000 years ago, because our beautiful city on the Rhine is more diverse than most other cities in the country. Cologne has a lot to offer beside Kölsch, Carnival and Churches. Founded 2000 years ago by the Romans, Cologne is one of the oldest cities in Germany, ranked fourth for its population of just over one million, and one of the most popular destinations for both German and foreign visitors. I am convinced that our foreign visitors - whether they are football fans or not - will feel at home in the Cathedral city. Enjoy the sights that Cologne has to offer, its friendly atmosphere and culture.
Fritz Schramma Lord Mayor of Cologne
Cover story Cologne’s majestic medieval Dom Cathedral towers over the Rhine, flanked by the railway bridge leading to the adjacent Hauptbahnhof station.
JvM
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Cologne In Your Pocket
Editorial Editor-in-Chief Jeroen van Marle Editorial Contributors Peter de Lissa, Sco Research Morwenna Parkyn Layout & Design Tomáš Haman Maps Kartographie Eichner,
[email protected] Cover photo: The Dom Cathedral and the railway bridge over the Rhine © Günther Ventur, Kölner-Bilder Sales & Circulation General Manager Stephan Krämer Accounting Martin Wollenhaupt Advertising Manager Sebastian Rudolph, Philippe Krüger, Julie Hundertmark
Copyright notice Text and photos copyright In Your Pocket GmbH 2006. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.
5
Arriving by plane
Arriving by bus
Köln/Bonn airport (Flughafen; www.koeln-bonn-airport. de) is 17km south of Cologne’s centre, and is practically halfway Bonn. It is serviced by S13 S-Bahn trains, departing from the station underneath Terminal 2. Some DB regional and long-distance trains also stop at the airport. The journey to Hauptbahnhof (the main station) takes around 20 minutes and costs €2. Tickets can be purchased at vending machines in the station or from the DB service desk inside Terminal 2, and do not require validation. You can also hail a taxi from outside the arrival terminal. The trip into town takes 20-25 minutes and costs around €25. Six car rental companies have offices in hall between terminals 1 and 2.
International buses and coaches depart from Breslauer Platz, at the rear of Hauptbahnhof station, where you will find the Eurolines kiosk as well as offices for the domestic operators. The bus station is just an ugly depot, and it’s better to wait inside the train station, or perhaps in the nearby Cathedral.
Arriving by train The main train station is Köln Hauptbahnhof, which is a busy transportation hub. International trains including high-speed connections to Paris and Amsterdam pass through Cologne, and there are excellent connections to all major German cities. S-Bahn commuter trains leave from the last two platforms, while U-Bahn metro trains depart from the station underneath Hauptbahnhof. The station itself is a mini shopping centre, and contains bars, restaurants, post office (open 06:00-22:00, Sun 07:00-22:00), ATMs and a small, pricey supermarket. Most of the stores within the Hauptbahnhof operate between the hours of 08:00 and 21:00, while the station itself is open 24 hours to cater for overnight train passengers. There is a police station located at the front of the station, and constant police patrols keep the riff-raff at bay.
JvM
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June - July 2006
history
glossary
50 AD Romans colonise an existing settlement and call it “Colonia”. Previous to that the area was inhabited by local Germanic tribes, and was called the Ubii village.
the amount of trade and the type of trade, thus limiting economic growth. The witdraw in 1814 as a result of losing a key battle near Leipzig.
450 AD Roman rule collapses in the Rhineland region. Many of the old Roman structures have survived as ruins to this day, and form a large part of Cologne’s history.
1823 The first organised Carnival parade takes place, and starts an enduring tradition of controlled insanity.
1074 Cologne citizens revolt against the ruling Archbishop Anno II, and are thoroughly oppressed for their troubles. 1164 The relics of the Three Kings of Milan are “liberated” by the crusaders and given to the Archishop Rainald von Dassel. These still reside within the Dom Cathedral. 1180 After the continued expansion of the city, Cologne becomes the largest city in the empire. Trade is important to the Cologne economy and the ports along the Rhine form an important hub of economic activity. 1248 Construction begins on the Dom Cathedral. 1388 Cologne University is founded by Pope Urban VI, the first town university in Europe. 1475 Cologne is given the official status of being a free town of the empire.
1918 “Kölsch” beer is christened.
Germany has a brilliant network of Autobahn (motorways, prefixed A) and Bundesstrasse roads (major roads, prefixed by B. Traffic drives on the right with speed limits of 130km/h or 100km/h outside built-up areas, and 50km/h in builtup areas. And indeed, there are really no speed limits on Autobahnen which makes for some fun driving and some truly ghastly accidents. Keep a close eye on the rear mirror if you’re planning to overtake or if you’re in the left lane, as those headlights in the distance behind you may get uncomfortably close very quickly. Seatbelts must be worn at all times and children under 12 years can only travel in the front seat with a child restraint. German laws are strict by many accounts when it comes to driving after you have had a few pints, glasses or snifters full of booze. The legal maximum alcohol to blood ratio for driving is 0.05%.
1933 The National Socialist party attains power and relieves the Mayor of office.
Language
1839 The Stollwerck factory opens, and becomes the forerunner to the chocolate factory. The Cologne Art Association is founded. 1842 Work resumes on the Dom Cathedral 1880 The construction on the Dom is completed. The topmost spire reaches 157 metres.
1942-1945 90 percent of the Altstadt is destroyed in night bombings by the Allies. Bags of flour instead are dropped onto the Dom Cathedral instead of bombs as either a sign of power or respect. 1954 The German football team wins the World Cup.
16th century Construction is halted on the Dom
1968 Work begins on the U-Bahn system
1740 Potatoes make their triumphant debut in Cologne.
1976 Museum Ludwig is founded after a donation of 350 works from the Ludwig family’s private collection.
1794 French troops occupy Cologne, which influences both
1981 The telecommunications tower is erected with a revolving restaurant on top. The restaurant has since closed. 1985 The twelve Altstadt churches are systematically restored and refurbished. 1986 The Philharmonie is opened, revealing a fault in the architectural design where the roof forms a walkway next to the Ludwig Museum. 1993 The Stollwerck Chocolate museum is founded at the Rheinauhafen by the former chairman on the Stollwerck company. 1996 The Musical Dom is built, to the delight and chagrin of many locals. The musical shows are quite impressive, but the aesthetic style of the big blue dome turns many people off. 2 0 0 0 Fri t z S c h ra m m a i s el e c te d Oberbürgermeister (mayor) of Cologne 2004 Rheinenergie Stadion, venue of the World Cup soccer matches, is opened as a replacement for the Muengersdorf stadium. 2005 World Youth Day takes place in Cologne, and the festivity is blessed by the Pope. Sco
Cologne In Your Pocket
Driving
2006 The FIFA World Cup takes place.
The German language has been somewhat misrepresented in the foreign media over the past decades, and when you hear it spoken it’s not as harsh as you may expect. Although you won’t be able to learn it on a short trip, it’s always nice to memorise a few key terms like thank you (danke), please (bitte), hello (gutentag) and goodbye (auf wiedersehen). You’ll notice that written German has some odd characters, such as the ß, the ü, ö and ä. Annoyingly, these are interchangeable with combinations of letters and can (and often are) replaced by ss, ue, oe and ae respectively – which explains why the website of Cologne (Köln) is spellt www.koeln.de.
Money The best way to get cash in Germany is to use an ATM machine, of which there are plenty all over the country. German banks do not charge for using foreign cards in their machines, so check with your own bank if you’ll pay any commission. Even if you do have to pay a euro or two to use an ATM, it’ll be better value and easier than going to one of the banks or train station exchange offices (like the Reisebank chain) as they have worse exchange rates and will charge a commission. Germany ditched the Deutsche mark in 2002, adopting the euro, pronounced locally as oi-ro. Germany’s economy is the largest in Europe, and therefore the majority of coins in circulation now are German ones; you’ll see Berlin’s Brandenburg Gate on the €0.10, €0.20 and €0.50 coins, and the German eagle flapping around on the €1 and €2. the banknotes, if you’re wondering, are the same for the whole of euroland, and are adorned with generic European bridges.
really quite useful for avoiding confusion, and Germany is one of the few places where the 24-hour clock is even used in spoken language. You may be told that the museum closes at sixteen-thirty, or that the train departs at twenty-thirtyeight.
Visas Citizens of EU and EEA countries do not need visas to enter Germany; most others do. For more details, visit the website of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, www.auswaertiges-amt.de. Germany is part of the Schengen treaty, which allows free flow of goods and traffic between member states. This means that your passport only gets checked when entering and leaving the Schengen area, and once you’re in, you can travel overland from Portugal to Finland without being stopped at the borders.
The Rhein Occasionally in springtime the Rhine river builds up due to the melting of the snow in Switzerland, and overflows out onto the banks. There have been times in history where the flood reached well into the old town, and caused large amounts of damage and loss of life. The dangers from it today are less dire due to the temporary flood defences that can be quickly erected.
Speaking Kölsch Cologne’s Kölsch dialect can turn your working understanding of the German language into water. Not only are there different pronunciations of words, but there are also completely different words for some things as well. The dialect is mostly used by the older generations, and mostly with a patriotic flair. One of the distinctive sounds in the accent is the “ch” sound gets turned from an “ik” to an “ish”, and the “g” gets pronounced like a “y” on occasion. When the younger generations use the accent they are often humorously alluding to the sense of pride that people from Cologne have in their city and their identity.
Safety Germany is a very safe country to travel in, and other than the usual precautions against pickpocketing, there are no special preparations you should make. Although Germany has been in the news recently for racist attacks, these incidents are quite rare and are by no means a purely German phenomenon. Germans are aware that their country is more closely scrutinised than others when it comes to this, and racism and violence is not tolerated, witness the impressive level of security around synagogues and Jewish institutions: sturdy barriers and round-the-clock armed guards.
Time Germany uses the 24-hour clock system, known as military time in some places, but as simply as ‘the time’ here. By doing away with all the am, pm, noon and midnight nonsense, it’s
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June - July 2006
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eVents Theatre, Opera & Dance Find information about the more remarkable of these venues in the Sightseeing chapter.
Musical Dom Goldgasse 1, MHauptbahnhof, tel. 0180
515 25 30, www.musical-dome-koeln.de. Not unlike walking around a vast and creaky caravan, even the staff here call the city’s ghastly rock music venue the big blue garbage bag. Whilst there’s nothing wrong in principal with modern architecture, this place simply stinks. The Queen musical “We Will Rock You” (www.queen-musical.de) has been running since late 2000.
Opera (Oper der Stadt Köln) Offenbachplatz, MNeu-
markt, tel. 284 00, www.buehnenkoeln.de. Set amidst the trendiest part of the shopping district, this opera house never fails to impress. There are of course performances of classics such as Wagner and other composers, and they often have more modern operas as well.
Philharmonie Bischofsgartenstr. 1, MHauptbahnhof,
tel. 280 280, www.koelner-philharmonie.de. Opened in 1986, the Philharmonie has become know as one of Germany’s leading concert halls. Tickets can be ordered online.
eVents 13 July 2006, 20:00 Eric Clapton Kölnarena Willy-Brandt-Platz-1, tel. 0221 80 21
24 June, 11:00 Barbara Bechtloff Atelier Colonia, Körnerstr. 37-39
7 July 2006, 20:00 Joe Jackson Live Music Hall, Lichtstr. 30, tel. 0221 954 29 90
Opera
14-16 July Summer Jam Festival Europe’s largest Reggae and World Music festival Fuehlinger See
2 June, 19:30 Der Held der westlichen Welt Oper der Stadt Köln, Offenbachplatz, tel. 22 12 84
23 July, 19:00 The Rolling Stones RheinEnergieStadion
3 June, 19:00 Night of Italian Opera Tanzbrunnen, Rheinparkweg 1, tel. 821 21 21
26 July 2006, 19:00 Jamie Cullum Bonn, Museumsplatz, tel. 0228 91 71 200
4 June, 19:30 La Forza del Destino Oper der Stadt Köln, Offenbachplatz, tel. 22 12 84
Exhibitions
7 June, 19:30 Don Pasquale Oper der Stadt Köln, Offenbachplatz, tel. 22 12 84
www.stadion-koeln.de. Opened in 2004, this well-equipped and modern stadium is the venue for the World Cup games to be played in Cologne, as well as playing host to some of the biggest names in music. Robbie Williams is scheduled to play in August.
Until 5 June Global Players - Deutscher Fußball in aller Welt Deutsches Sport- und Olympiamuseum, Rheinauhafen 1
17 June, 13:00 Jarry Singla & Blumenbein C. Bechstein Forum, Opern Passagen, Glockengasse 6, tel. 925 85 07
Tanzbrunnen Rheinweg 1, MMesse Deutz, tel. 821 21
9 June, 18:00 Jazz & Art Kunstwerk, Deutz-Mülheimer Str. 127-129, tel. 880 07 67
21. The Tanzbrunnen (Dance Fountain) is a great open-air venue for live acts. It sits next to the Rheinpark, and plays host to many big shows and performances.
Exhibitions
23 June, 19:30 La Cifra Oper der Stadt Köln, Offenbachplatz, tel. 22 12 84
Theatre 11 June, 15:00 Drachenreiter Junges Theater Bonn, Hermannstr. 50-52, tel. 46 36 72
Tickets KölnTicket Große Neugasse 2, tel. 28 01, www.
koelnticket.de. Tickets for nearly all cultural and sports events, available online in German (pay by credit card) or from their office.
11 June, 14:30 & 19:30 We Will Rock You Musical-Dome, Goldgasse 1, tel. 577 90
Events
11 June, 19:30 A midsummer night’s dream Schlosserei, Krebsgasse, tel. 221-2 84 0
Classical music 10 June, 20:00 WDR Sinfonieorchester Köln Brahms, Strawinsky Philharmonie
15 June, 20:00 Rolling Stones un-PLACK-ed Tour Theater im Hof, Roonstr. 54, tel. 35 68 122
From 25 July, 20:00 19th Kölner Sommerfestival 2006 Martha Graham Dance Company Philharmonie
15 June, 15:30 Have you seen my little boy? Schlosserei, Krebsgasse, tel. 221-2 84 0 23 June, 19:30 Aymineh Cassiopeia Bühne, Martinsfeld 35, tel. 937 87 87
Concerts 15 June 2006, 18.30 Deep Purple Bonn, Museumsplatz, tel. 0228 917 12 00
Cologne In Your Pocket
In Your Pocket continues to expand, launching no less than eight new city guides in Germany, in time for the soccer World Cup. All World Cup host cities now have their own In Your Pocket, in print and available locally at hotels, and also online as both browseable text and a free downloadable PDF guide. Apart from that, there’s the free Football In Your Pocket insert guide which can be found in all In Your Pocket guides in Germany - the booklet has information on teams and stadiums and has a nifty fixtures table. Elsewhere, new guides will hit the streets of Kosovo, Macedonia and Montenegro this summer. If you would like to be a part of the Pocket group, publishing your own guide, contact us at
[email protected] for more details. You can also keep up to date with the latest developments by logging on to www.inyourpocket.com/press.
14 June, 15:30 Hänsel und Gretel / Hans and Gretel Oper der Stadt Köln, Offenbachplatz, tel. 221 2840
6/7 July, 20:00 The Ten Tenors Philharmonie
11 July 2006, 19:00 James Blunt Tanzbrunnen, Rheinparkweg 1, tel. 0221 821 31 83
Europe In Your Pocket
2 June, 19:00 La Gare de Perpignan Museum Ludwig, Bischofsgartenstr.1, tel. 221 223 82
Salvador Dalí: La Gare de Perpignan Until 25 June Museum Ludwig, Bischofsgartenstr. 1
RheinEnergieStadion Aachener Strasse, tel. 498 36,
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24 June, 20:00 Arcipelago Circo Teatro Schokoladenmuseum, Rheinauhafen 1a, tel. 931 88 80 Sco
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June - July 2006
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World Cup Fan Fest
eVents Gay events 14-16 July Christopher Street Day Th e annual festi val o f C ol ogne’s gay and l esbian community 3 June, 19:30 Africa Gay & Friends Evening Sasch’s Bar, Wetzlarerstr. 2, tel. 88 75 471 6 June, 20:00 Knacki Deuser / Theater & Music Gloria, Apostelnstr. 11, tel. 258 36 56 19 June, 19:00 Wir sind, wie wir sind / Party Rubicon, Rubensstr. 8-10, tel. 19 44 6
Children’s events 3 June, 15:00 The ugly duckling By H.C. Andersen, for children from 5 years Cassiopeia Bühne, Martinsfeld 35, tel. 937 87 87 10 June, 16:00, The fattest Pinguin of Pol Childern’s theatre, from 3 years Horizont Theater, Thürmchenswall 25, tel. 13 16 04 17 June, 16:00 Being a lion is wonderful Circusmusical by Gertrud Pigor, from 4 years Horizont Theater, Thürmchenswall 25, tel. 13 16 04
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Cologne In Your Pocket
It’s Brazil’s Cup to Lose The idea that this could be one of the most open and fiercely contested World Cup tournaments in history has been doing the rounds in the press – especially the UK press – ever since England beat Argentina in a rather meaningless friendly match, held in Switzerland at the end of last year. (The match was also memorable for England captain David B e c k h a m’s p r e - g a m e comment that ‘it is a neutral venue for both teams.’) Since then the idea that Fresh from Champions the tournament is ‘open’, League success with in fact code for ‘England Barcelona, Ronaldinho have a chance’, has been increasingly winning friends will be looking for another World Cup triumph with and influencing people. To p u t a n y E n g l a n d Brazil.” © Mediafax Foto supporters reading this out of their self-induced hubris: England have absolutely no chance whatsoever of winning the World Cup; with or without Wayne Rooney. Indeed, the now legendary Rooney metatarsal injury has given the English press a ready excuse when England do indeed crash out of the tournament. It should not, however, hide the enormous failings that England currently suffer from. They still lack a proper goalkeeper, they have little depth up front, no genuine left-sided wide man, and in Steven Gerrard, Frank Lampard and David Beckham too many square pegs in round holes. England lack balance. Other nations in this tournament do not, and Brazil is one of them. Though the wealth of talent they have does – as it has to – mask their own failings, there is no question of their coach Carlos Alberto Parreira using all six of his best attacking players at the same time. Indeed. His decision to name his first XI as long ago as April was classic one-upmanship: the rest of the pack now knows exactly what it has to beat. England as we have discussed, are not qualified to do so. With their original tactic of ‘keep it tight at the back and hope Wayne knocks one in from 30 yards’ now out of the window. They have woken up to discover there is no plan B. Expect then, a variation on plan A: ‘keep it tight at the back and hope Frankie/Stevie/Becks knocks one in from 30 yards.’ Hardly the stuff of legend. Is any other nation prepared to meet Brazil’s challenge? Of the traditional ‘big guns’ Argentina looks frail and lacking in cohesion, Italy – amid scandal at home – look less capable even than England of putting together a decent run in the tournament, the host nation Germany currently possesses the worst team in their memory, Spain – crippled by the bizarre selection policy of its coach – will underachieve once more, and France are an ageing, wilting team hardly set for one last glorious hurrah. Only Holland, conspicuously absent from all talk of potential winners, look capable of mounting a decent challenge to Brazil. And even that will depend on their mood. Indeed, the In Your Pocket prediction is that Brazil’s likeliest challengers will be an outsider. We – for no reason more scientific than a hunch – think the Ukraine will do well. We also like the look of the United States, and if they can find the net often enough Portugal will do well. Yet none of these three will beat an on-form Brazil. And Brazil are the best team in Germany. Not since Italy surprised even themselves to take the trophy in 1982 has the best team in the World Cup gone home empty handed. The cup then is Brazil’s to lose. We doubt very much that they will do so. But as we said four years ago (while we were heavily tipping France) in a cup competition, anything can happen…
During the games the city centre will transform into a huge viewing area, with the three main city squares; Roncalliplatz, Heumarkt and Alter Markt allowing public viewing via large video screens. There will also be a number of gimmicky soccer courts set up in the squares, where punters can try their luck and perhaps snap a tendon in the process. There are a number of bars and pubs around town that will be showing the games live on big screen TVs. The Corkonian has two large screens, and are daily showing games played all over the world. The Corkonian is, however, at the Alter Markt (no.51, tel. 221 257 69 31) which is one of the venues for the public viewing on big screen TV’s outside, so it almost defeats the purpose. The Spor t and Olympia Museum (Rh einauha fen 1, www.sportmuseum-koeln.de, see p.??) have a special exhibit over the World Cup period called “Global PlayersDeutscher fussball in aller Welt” which focuses on German football players who have gone on to play in and for other countries. The Cologne Jazz Night 2006 runs from the 29th of June until the 7th of July at the Musikhochschule, and incorporates the World Cup into their performances with the individual bands and artists representing all the nations taking part in the games. The final days of the festival are devoted to seminars and workshops. Musikhochschule, Dagobertstrasse 38, tel. 221 912 81 80) At the Eifelturm Theatre (Eifelstrasse 33, tel. 221 32 17 92, www.eifelturm-koeln.de) there will be a fresh adaptation of musical The Phantom of the Opera revolving around football entitled “Das Phantom des Stadions”. The Germanlangauge musical tells the story of a trapped soul who haunts a football stadium, reminiscing about the Glory days of German football.
Bud or Bit So you came to Germany to taste the famous local brews? You’re in for a bit of a surprise if you’re planning to order beer in any of the stadiums or public viewing areas, as one of the main sponsors of the World Cup is Anheuser-Busch, the US brewery responsible for Budweiser and whose interpretation of what beer should taste like differs a bit from the European viewpoint. As exclusive beer sponsor they have the sole right to promote their beer in and around the official venues. Thankfully, after years of legal battle, Bitburger, Germany’s second-largest brewer, is allowed to sell their brew here as well, though not advertise it. Outside of the official venues, local bars are allowed to sell whatever beer they like.
Live acts The following live acts takeplace during the World Cup. On the 26th of June The Strokes will be performing at the Palladium. Tickets from www.noisenow.de. Palladium, Schanzenstrasse 40, tel. 221 967 90, www.palladiumkoeln.de. On 13 July, Eric Clapton will be playing at the Koelnarena, and is being supported by the Robert Cray Band, so if you get the chance to stick around after the final you will be in for a treat. Koelnarena, Willi-Brandt-Platz 2, tel. 221 80 20, www.eventim.de. On 10 June the Guerzenich-Orchestra will be performing at the open-air Tanzbrunnen (Rheinweg 1, tel. 221 821 21 21). They will be playing works by Mozart, Bizet and Strauss to name a few. For tickets contact Koelnticket at tel. 221 28 01.
World Cup Language Guide Tourist industry workers in Germany generally speak English well, but thanks to the annoying habit of dubbing everything foreign on television and in cinemas into German, the average local is not exposed to English very much. That’s why we’ve composed a little list of terms that may be of use during your trip. One/two/three/four/five beer, please. No thanks, I’ll have a Bit beer instead. So, who do you think will win? Where is the toilet? Where is the stadium? Where is the train station? That was offside. The referee is biased.
Sco
He should have scored there. He’s hit the post/ crossbar! Take off (player name)! Bring on (player name) Penalty! Goal!
Ein/zwei/drei/vier/fünf Bier, bitte. Nein Danke, ich hätte lieber ein Bit. Was glaubst du, wer gewinnen wird? Wo ist die Toilette? Wo ist das Stadion? Wo ist der Bahnhof? Das war Abseits. Der Schiedsrichter ist parteiisch. Das Tor hätte er schiessen müssen. Er hat den Pfosten / die Latte getroffen (player name) abziehen! (player name) einwechseln! Elfmeter! Toooooooooooooor!
June - July 2006
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KÖlsCh
FestiVals
The skyline of Cologne holds two very important features; th e Dom Cathedral and the Kölsch beer breweries. Laws governing the production of the fresh, pale beer state that a brewer y may only label their beer Kölsch if they are able to physically see the Dom, which generally means a radius of forty kilometres. While beer itself has been brewed in Cologne since 874, the term Kölsch was first coined in 1918 to describe the beer brewed by the Sünner brewery. There is a wide variety of flavours amongst the different breweries, and often each local has their favourite. An average year finds the annual consumption of Kölsch to be around 3 million hectolitres and it seems that about half of that disappears during Karneval. The Kölsch that has become synonymous with Karneval (carnival) is Reissdorf, which has a unique flavour to it that some describe as burnt, and others as biscuity. There are about thirty different breweries producing Kölsch, and some are owned by a conglomerate which in some people’s minds takes away from the character of the beer. Some breweries offer organised tours, and in 1999 the Zur Malzmühle brewery was paid a surprise visit by Bill Clinton. When drinking Kölsch in a bar or a club you will find the prices to vary hugely. During happy hour you can find a 200ml glass for as little as €0.80, while another bar might charge upwards of €2.80. The difference is largely based on location rather than quality, and everywhere you go you can expect a decent glass of beer. A nice place to sample lots of different Kölsch and other beers is the Biermuseum at Buttermarckt. Kölsch is traditionally served in a tall 200ml glass called a Kölsch-Stange. This tendency to serve such small quantities irritates some drinkers, who feel slightly effeminate (and thirsty) drinking out of such small and delicate glasses, although some bars and pubs serve irregular sizes like 300 or 400ml. The major breweries in Cologne have beer houses
Carnival Karneval is Cologne’s most famous celebration, and the party spirit invades everybody. Although the festival is held in later wi n ter, i n C ol ogn e i t’s possible to get a glimpse of Karneval year round. Th e o ri gi n s o f t h e celebration are a mixture of pagan festivities marking the transition of seasons and the Christian celebration of lent, and has been called the “fifth season”. The real meaning of Karneval these days revolves around breaking free of inhibition and going bonkers. The official beginning of Karneval is 11 November (at 11:11), which is like a warm-up party in preparation for the February madness. It hits like a hurricane; you are going about your day, business as usual and then suddenly you are drowned in a sea of crazy costumes and riotous party-goers. And this is just the warm-up. The real action begins on a Thursday in February, seven Sundays before Easter. On this day straw effigies are raised above the doorways of the pubs and bars. The purpose of these straw men called Nubbels is to absorb the sins of the party-goers. This means that when you drink to an excess and make gratuitous sexual advances towards many members of the opposite sex your sins are swallowed and you can have a clear conscience! Not a bad deal, unless you are the Nubbel. © Privatbrauerei Gaffel where you are served by Kölsch waiters called Köbes, who rush around making sure that no glass is empty. One of the signals you can give to indicate that you have had enough is to put your beer coaster on top of the glass. If you go to one of the breweries beer-halls you should expect to be served that type of Kölsch, and it is sociopathically bad taste to try to order a different one, but there is probably always at least one customer who does.
If you’re interested in carnival culture, there is a year-round museum dedicated to the history and practices of Karneval in Cologne west of the centre. Cologne Carnival Museum, Maar weg 134-136, (M) Müngersdorf, tel. 221 57 40 00,
[email protected], www. kk-museum.de. Admission €4/1. Open 11:00 – 17:00, Thu 10:00-20:00, closed Mon.
An ale of two cities
ColognePride
When buying beer it is important to avoid making the embarrassing social faux-pas of ordering Altbier. Altbier is a darker beer of a quite similar type to Kölsch that is brewed mainly around nearby Düsseldorf, and the rivalry between the two cities finds expression in their choice of beer. So don’t stroll into a pub in Cologne and wonder why they do not serve Altbier and similarly expect bemused looks and mumbled obscenities if you ask for a Kölsch in Düsseldorf. The rivalry of the two cities is nowadays light-hearted, but if the point carries past a joke then some locals can feel offended. After Karneval 2006, the supermarkets in Cologne had such an oversupply of unsold Altbier that some had to reduce the price by 60% just to get rid of it.
© Brauerei Frueh
Cologne In Your Pocket
Everybody has their favourite brand of Kölsch, and it seems that the only way to find yours is to try as much as you can. We’re big fans of Mühlenkölsch, which has its own unique hoppy flavour. Each local will give you a list of reasons why their preferred brand is better but at the end of the day it just comes down to one thing: individuality. This sense of individuality captivates the spirit of Cologne, and forms a big part of the soul of the city.
The first night of Karneval is the biggest, and parties rage throughout the city. The old stone fortifications are a favourite site for musicians and revellers alike to dance the night away, and provide a unique backdrop for the festivities. It is tradition to wear outrageous costumes for Karneval, and half the fun of the festivities is admiring the creative choice of clothing. It is not unusual to share an elevator at work with a pirate, or to witness two people in full gorilla suits arguing about directions with a taxi driver. There are often informal and formal processions that pass through the city during Karneval, with some inviting partygoers to join in. Streets are closed off for these processions, and there are almost always musicians playing as they march, and fire-breathers lighting up the night sky. Karneval lasts through to Monday (Rosenmontag), when there is a huge procession of floats that pass through the streets of the city for 6km, throwing out candy and chocolate. It is tradition to shout out Kamelle (pronounced kamella) to get the attention of the passing float members for them to throw something nice to you. More than 2 million people each year attend the parade, and hundreds of thousands of chocolates and candies rain down upon them. Rosenmontag has a great family atmosphere, and there are always big smiles on the faces of the children as their bags of collected candy grows heavier and heavier. Parents can expect to hear complaints about stomach aches for days afterwards. The adult’s candy comes in the form of Kölsch beer, which is drunk in mind-boggling quantities. It is common for kiosks to raise their beer prices by over 30% during Karneval, so be warned. Getting a drink inside a bar or pub is like swimming against the tide, and many people can be found swilling Kölsch in the streets. Karneval winds down on the Rosenmontag, and at twelve am on Tuesday the Nubbel is taken down and ceremoniously burnt, thereby releasing all the soaked up sins of the Karneval partiers into oblivion - the poor Nubbel really does get a tough time. Accommodation during Karneval is scarce, and it is encouraged to book a year in advance in some hotels.
Cologne’s other famous festival is the gay C ol o g n e P ri d e fe s ti va l, h e l d f r o m 1 -1 6 J u l y and culminating in th e Christopher Street Day Parade on the last day. The parade is a celebration of gay pride and sexual tol e ra n c e, wi t h s t re e t parties and processions in the city centre. The festival attracts many thousands of visitors, both from within Germany and from overseas. For more information visit www. colognepride.de.
JvM
www.inyourpocket.com June - July 2006
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Where to stay
Where to stay Maritim C-3, Heumarkt 20, MHeumarkt, tel. 202
Hotel categories are based on the most expensive double room rate. Prices are rack rates, and are expected to go through the roof during the World Cup.
Symbol key P Air conditioning
A Credit cards accepted
Over €200
O Casino
H Conference facilities
T Child friendly
U Facilities for the disabled
R Internet W Wi-Fi
L Guarded parking
F Fitness centre
G Non-smoking rooms
K Restaurant
M Nearest metro station
D Sauna
C Swimming pool
Hilton B-2, Marzellenstr. 13-17, MHauptbahnhof, tel.
13 07 10, fax 13 07 20,
[email protected], hilton. de/koeln. Opulent designer overtones and an industrial grey appearance lend a sophisticated air to one of Cologne’s best hotels. The rooms are, as one would expect, better than exceptional, featuring all the necessary gadgets plus beautiful oak floors and breathtaking views of the Dom. Trivia buffs with be delighted to learn that the England soccer team will be resting here during the World Cup. Q AGKLPTUW
Hotel Im Wasserturm B-3, Kaygasse 2, MPoststr, tel.
200 80, fax 2 00 88 88,
[email protected], www.hotel-im-wasserturm.de. Housed in an old watertower, this is one of the most unique places to stay in Cologne, and one of the most exclusive. The feat of creating a 5-star hotel here has spawned spacious double-storey suites, beautiful views and inimitable style. You might end up in a bed used by Madonna or Brad Pitt. Q (10 singles N180 - 265, 44 doubles N210 - 335, 34 suites N240 - 385). ADGHKLPTU
Hyatt Regency Köln D-2, Kennedy-Ufer 2a, MDeutzer
Freiheit, tel. 828 12 34, fax 828 13 70, cologne@regency. hyatt.com, cologne.regency.hyatt.com. All of the rooms in the Hyatt (the first Hyatt in Europe you’ll no doubt be told several hundred times before you check out) are of the same standard, which is of course the best possible standard. Vast golden corridors, immaculate rooms and an awesome suite overlook the Dom across the river, adding to the effect and making this one of the loveliest choices in the city. Slightly out of the centre, but if you can afford to stay here then several taxi rides a day aren’t going to hurt you. Q (288 doubles N135 - 450, 17 suites N320 - 1935). ACDFGHKLPTUW
Intercontinental C-3, Pipinstr. 1, MHeumarkt,
70, fax 202 78 28, inf
[email protected], w w w. maritime.de. A swish brass and marble affair with a glass lift shooting up and down between floors, Maritim can be found opposite Heumarkt. As well as boasting lots of orange and a team of jovial bellboys, there’s DSL internet in every room, baths in every room too, and lots of dark wood fittings. Extras include conference facilities, a smashing little tearoom and a piano bar. Per fect for both business travellers and loving couples in town for some serious cul ture and a bit of not-so serious shopping. Q (116 singles N147 - 318, 310 doubles N165 - 343, 16 suites N398 - 1000). ACDFGH� KLPTUW
Marriott C-1, Johannisstr. 76-80, MDom/Hauptbahn-
tel. 280 60, fax 28 06 11 11,
[email protected], www.cologne.intercontinental.com. A ludicrously large lobby big ger than most hotels spells out loud and clear what you can expect at the Intercontinental. Impeccable and delightfully stylish, even the lowest category rooms here are bordering on awesome. With showers and baths in every room and copies of the teachings of Buddha to go with the bibles by the beds everything is bigger, better, and just that little bit different from the rest. Not a bad location either. Q (singles N160 - 405, 250 doubles N190 - 445, 12 suites N350 1850). ACDFGHKLPTUW
hof, tel. 94 22 20/94 22 27 77, cologne.marriott@ marriotthotels.com, www.colognemarriott.com. Opened at the beginning of 2006, this Marriot is an example of how it should be done. The futuristic lobby impresses, without being garish, the martinis in the cocktail lounge have won awards, the rooms are ultra comfortable and the service is impeccable. Q (10 suites N315 - 600, 184 King N165 - 429, 78 Twin N165 - 429, 1 Domsuite N365 - 800, 9 Studios N315 - 600). ADFGH� KLPRT
Kunibert Der Fiese C-2, Am Bollwerk 1-5, MHeumarkt,
Kreisel 3, MKölnmesse, tel. 221 27 72 00, fax 22 12 77 20 10,
[email protected], w w w.radissonsas.com. Wi t h sub tl y styled rooms, prim and proper concierge and a bustling lobby, this hotel has something for ever yone. One might bump into Sarah Conner in the elevator, or perhaps join in the celebrations with the Brazilian World Cup fans, who are making this hotel home-base for 2006. The fitness area gets a little crowded when more than two people use it though. Q393 rooms (singles N110 378, d oubl es N110 - 369, suites N195 - 480). AD� FGHKLPRTU hhhh
tel. 9 25 46 80, fax 2 58 08 93, info@kunibertderfiese. de, www.kunibertderfiese.de. One of the best-located hotels in Cologne, right in the centre of the old town. There is a bustling restaurant at the front of the hotel, and the building dates back to 1234 AD. The rooms are basic, and some with a beautiful Rhine view. The service can sometimes be slow and vague. Q (9 singles N55 - 155, 9 doubles N65 - 205, 4 triples N85 - 225). AGKRT
€150-200 Crowne Plaza A-3, Habsburgerring 9-13, MRudolphplatz,
tel. 22 80, fax 25 12 06, www.cologne-citycentre.crowneplaza.com. Located in a hip area, this is the perfect base for access to both the Dom and Altstadt, as well as the trendy cafes, restaurants and nightclubs that lie along the Ring’s fringe. If you ask really nicely the porter will take you up onto the roof, where you get a magnificent view over Cologne from a surprisingly lofty height. Q (145 singles N135 - 185, 149 doubles N150 - 200). ACDFGHKLPRTU
Dom Hotel C-2, Domkloster 2a, MHauptbahnhof, tel.
202 40, fax 202 44 44, www.cologne.lemeridien.com. Location, location, location and a €8.5 million facelift make this spectacular hotel luxury personified. Lots of bright colours and Italian black marble set the backdrop to services that include breathtaking rooms with complimentary bathrobes, wireless internet and state of the art business facilities, plus all the other goodies one usually associates with a Le Meridien. If you can afford it, or if your company is footing the bill, you can’t do a lot better than a night here. Q (66 singles N150 - 395, 45 doubles N180 - 490, 13 suites N260 - 1100). AGHKLPW
Radisson SAS E-2, Messe
Ringhotel Kosmos
Sco
Cologne In Your Pocket
Wa l d e c ke r S t r . 1 1 - 1 5 , MWaldecker Str, tel. 6 70 90, fax 6 70 93 21,
[email protected], www. kosmos-hotel-koeln.de. Laying unassumingly in wait at the beginning of the street, this hotel is an oasis in an otherwise drab area. The hotel itself has been family-run for 75 years, with three family members still doing shifts; a sign of commitment considering the size of the hotel. All the perks you expect, and prompt service to boot. Q (55 singles N, 95 doubles N). ACDGKLPRT
&IND