Cologne In Your Pocket

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

COLOGNE June - July 2006

Football events Win or lose, this is where to party

River tours

Wine and dine on the Rhine

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Herzlich Willkommen!

Contents

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents Arriving

5

Getting there and oriented

In Your Pocket begrüßt in seiner Reihe der Stadtführer auch diese schöne Stadt.

History

6

From Roman invasion to football invasion

Die In Your Pocket City Guides verstehen sich als kostenlose Stadtführer.Unsere Zielgruppe ist klar! Unsere Leser besuchen die Stadt und wissen weder was die Butter in Hamburg kostet, noch warum die Münchner blasse Wurst essen und wo diese wirklich schmeckt.

Glossary

7

The basics

Events

8

What’s going on

Unsere Leser sind Touristen und Geschäftsreisende: sie möchten sich die Stadt ansehen, Vorführungen genießen, Essen & Trinken, Postkarten schreiben, oder in ihrer freien Zeit Ausstellungen besuchen und ein typisches Souvenir kaufen.

World Cup events

11

Football-related festivities

Kölsch

12

Watery local delight

Aber unsere Leser sprechen kein Wort Deutsch!

Festivals

Wir geben den internationalen Reisenden ausführliche Informationen über Ihr Unternehmen und präsentieren Ihre Leistungen in englischer Sprache.

13

Join in the party

Where to stay

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14

From park bench to Park Grand

Restaurants Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

FRaNkFuRt

  

MuNiCH

Hotels restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events maps

CologNE

June - July 2006

april - May 2006



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Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

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Visiting Brühl Castle, or shopping in Bonn?

Museums by night

Getting around

Join the all-night culture fest

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Win or lose, this is where to party

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lEipzig

June - July 2006

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Hotels restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing events maps

Football events

River tours

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Wine and dine on the Rhine

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RuHRgEbiEt

Nuremberg

June - July 2006

June - July 2006

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Down in the docks

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Harbour tours

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June - July 2006

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Trains, planes and taxis

Football events

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Revamped In Your Pocket

kaiSERSlautERN

32

Daytrips

June - July 2006

New Look

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

What to see

HaNovER

June - July 2006

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28

Sights in and around town

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

Hamburg

June - July 2006

Nightlife Bars, clubs and general debauchery

From fine dining to fast food



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Mail & Phones

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Heed your calling

Hotels restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

Stuttgart including Dortmund, gelsenkirchen, Essen and bochum

Shopping

June - July 2006

Ruhrpott industrial tourism

41

Souvenirs, food and books

Up towers, down shafts

automobiles going medieval

Visiting Mercedes and Porsche

Football events

Win or lose, this is where to party

A tour through the old town

Directory

Football events

Win or lose, this is where to party

Football events

Win or lose, this is where to party

Win or lose, this is where to party

Brought back to life

Going Palatine Strolling in the forest

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Banks, pharmacies and hairdressers

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Maps & Index

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tel: +49 (0)30 27907981, [email protected], www.inyourpocket.com

Street register City map Transport map Index

45 46-47 48-49 50 June - July 2006

4

arriVing

ForeWord Cologne is a city that has a strong sense of identity and individuality. Whether you are spending a week or two getting to know the city or just passing through you are left with a sense that there was more to see and do. The museums are amongst the best and most renowned in Europe, the cathedral and various churches throughout the city are virtually painted with history, the music scene is thriving and the beer is a world unto itself. Best of all; Cologne is a city that likes tourists. The Koelsch people are proud of their city, and they love to show it off. After witnessing Carnival it is hard to imagine Cologne ever being more boisterous, but there may be surprises left in store when the World Cup knocks at the door. Enjoy Cologne, and remember to write in to [email protected] with your experiences in town, and your opinion of this guide.

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Welcome to Cologne If you haven’t seen Cologne, you haven’t seen Germany” - this ancient Roman saying is as relevant today as it was 2000 years ago, because our beautiful city on the Rhine is more diverse than most other cities in the country. Cologne has a lot to offer beside Kölsch, Carnival and Churches. Founded 2000 years ago by the Romans, Cologne is one of the oldest cities in Germany, ranked fourth for its population of just over one million, and one of the most popular destinations for both German and foreign visitors. I am convinced that our foreign visitors - whether they are football fans or not - will feel at home in the Cathedral city. Enjoy the sights that Cologne has to offer, its friendly atmosphere and culture.

Fritz Schramma Lord Mayor of Cologne

Cover story Cologne’s majestic medieval Dom Cathedral towers over the Rhine, flanked by the railway bridge leading to the adjacent Hauptbahnhof station.

JvM

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

In Your Pocket GmbH Axel-Springer-Str. 39 10969 Berlin Tel: (+49)(0)30 27 90 79 81 Fax: (+49)(0)30 24 04 73 50 [email protected] www.inyourpocket.com © In Your Pocket GmbH, a company of UAB In Your Pocket Vokieciu 10-15 Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76 Printed by Druckteam GbR Berlin. June/July 2006, 10.000 copies

Cologne In Your Pocket

Editorial Editor-in-Chief Jeroen van Marle Editorial Contributors Peter de Lissa, Sco Research Morwenna Parkyn Layout & Design Tomáš Haman Maps Kartographie Eichner, [email protected] Cover photo: The Dom Cathedral and the railway bridge over the Rhine © Günther Ventur, Kölner-Bilder Sales & Circulation General Manager Stephan Krämer Accounting Martin Wollenhaupt Advertising Manager Sebastian Rudolph, Philippe Krüger, Julie Hundertmark

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright In Your Pocket GmbH 2006. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

5

Arriving by plane

Arriving by bus

Köln/Bonn airport (Flughafen; www.koeln-bonn-airport. de) is 17km south of Cologne’s centre, and is practically halfway Bonn. It is serviced by S13 S-Bahn trains, departing from the station underneath Terminal 2. Some DB regional and long-distance trains also stop at the airport. The journey to Hauptbahnhof (the main station) takes around 20 minutes and costs €2. Tickets can be purchased at vending machines in the station or from the DB service desk inside Terminal 2, and do not require validation. You can also hail a taxi from outside the arrival terminal. The trip into town takes 20-25 minutes and costs around €25. Six car rental companies have offices in hall between terminals 1 and 2.

International buses and coaches depart from Breslauer Platz, at the rear of Hauptbahnhof station, where you will find the Eurolines kiosk as well as offices for the domestic operators. The bus station is just an ugly depot, and it’s better to wait inside the train station, or perhaps in the nearby Cathedral.

Arriving by train The main train station is Köln Hauptbahnhof, which is a busy transportation hub. International trains including high-speed connections to Paris and Amsterdam pass through Cologne, and there are excellent connections to all major German cities. S-Bahn commuter trains leave from the last two platforms, while U-Bahn metro trains depart from the station underneath Hauptbahnhof. The station itself is a mini shopping centre, and contains bars, restaurants, post office (open 06:00-22:00, Sun 07:00-22:00), ATMs and a small, pricey supermarket. Most of the stores within the Hauptbahnhof operate between the hours of 08:00 and 21:00, while the station itself is open 24 hours to cater for overnight train passengers. There is a police station located at the front of the station, and constant police patrols keep the riff-raff at bay.

JvM

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June - July 2006



history

glossary

50 AD Romans colonise an existing settlement and call it “Colonia”. Previous to that the area was inhabited by local Germanic tribes, and was called the Ubii village.

the amount of trade and the type of trade, thus limiting economic growth. The witdraw in 1814 as a result of losing a key battle near Leipzig.

450 AD Roman rule collapses in the Rhineland region. Many of the old Roman structures have survived as ruins to this day, and form a large part of Cologne’s history.

1823 The first organised Carnival parade takes place, and starts an enduring tradition of controlled insanity.

1074 Cologne citizens revolt against the ruling Archbishop Anno II, and are thoroughly oppressed for their troubles. 1164 The relics of the Three Kings of Milan are “liberated” by the crusaders and given to the Archishop Rainald von Dassel. These still reside within the Dom Cathedral. 1180 After the continued expansion of the city, Cologne becomes the largest city in the empire. Trade is important to the Cologne economy and the ports along the Rhine form an important hub of economic activity. 1248 Construction begins on the Dom Cathedral. 1388 Cologne University is founded by Pope Urban VI, the first town university in Europe. 1475 Cologne is given the official status of being a free town of the empire.

1918 “Kölsch” beer is christened.

Germany has a brilliant network of Autobahn (motorways, prefixed A) and Bundesstrasse roads (major roads, prefixed by B. Traffic drives on the right with speed limits of 130km/h or 100km/h outside built-up areas, and 50km/h in builtup areas. And indeed, there are really no speed limits on Autobahnen which makes for some fun driving and some truly ghastly accidents. Keep a close eye on the rear mirror if you’re planning to overtake or if you’re in the left lane, as those headlights in the distance behind you may get uncomfortably close very quickly. Seatbelts must be worn at all times and children under 12 years can only travel in the front seat with a child restraint. German laws are strict by many accounts when it comes to driving after you have had a few pints, glasses or snifters full of booze. The legal maximum alcohol to blood ratio for driving is 0.05%.

1933 The National Socialist party attains power and relieves the Mayor of office.

Language

1839 The Stollwerck factory opens, and becomes the forerunner to the chocolate factory. The Cologne Art Association is founded. 1842 Work resumes on the Dom Cathedral 1880 The construction on the Dom is completed. The topmost spire reaches 157 metres.

1942-1945 90 percent of the Altstadt is destroyed in night bombings by the Allies. Bags of flour instead are dropped onto the Dom Cathedral instead of bombs as either a sign of power or respect. 1954 The German football team wins the World Cup.

16th century Construction is halted on the Dom

1968 Work begins on the U-Bahn system

1740 Potatoes make their triumphant debut in Cologne.

1976 Museum Ludwig is founded after a donation of 350 works from the Ludwig family’s private collection.

1794 French troops occupy Cologne, which influences both

1981 The telecommunications tower is erected with a revolving restaurant on top. The restaurant has since closed. 1985 The twelve Altstadt churches are systematically restored and refurbished. 1986 The Philharmonie is opened, revealing a fault in the architectural design where the roof forms a walkway next to the Ludwig Museum. 1993 The Stollwerck Chocolate museum is founded at the Rheinauhafen by the former chairman on the Stollwerck company. 1996 The Musical Dom is built, to the delight and chagrin of many locals. The musical shows are quite impressive, but the aesthetic style of the big blue dome turns many people off. 2 0 0 0 Fri t z S c h ra m m a i s el e c te d Oberbürgermeister (mayor) of Cologne 2004 Rheinenergie Stadion, venue of the World Cup soccer matches, is opened as a replacement for the Muengersdorf stadium. 2005 World Youth Day takes place in Cologne, and the festivity is blessed by the Pope. Sco

Cologne In Your Pocket

Driving

2006 The FIFA World Cup takes place.

The German language has been somewhat misrepresented in the foreign media over the past decades, and when you hear it spoken it’s not as harsh as you may expect. Although you won’t be able to learn it on a short trip, it’s always nice to memorise a few key terms like thank you (danke), please (bitte), hello (gutentag) and goodbye (auf wiedersehen). You’ll notice that written German has some odd characters, such as the ß, the ü, ö and ä. Annoyingly, these are interchangeable with combinations of letters and can (and often are) replaced by ss, ue, oe and ae respectively – which explains why the website of Cologne (Köln) is spellt www.koeln.de.

Money The best way to get cash in Germany is to use an ATM machine, of which there are plenty all over the country. German banks do not charge for using foreign cards in their machines, so check with your own bank if you’ll pay any commission. Even if you do have to pay a euro or two to use an ATM, it’ll be better value and easier than going to one of the banks or train station exchange offices (like the Reisebank chain) as they have worse exchange rates and will charge a commission. Germany ditched the Deutsche mark in 2002, adopting the euro, pronounced locally as oi-ro. Germany’s economy is the largest in Europe, and therefore the majority of coins in circulation now are German ones; you’ll see Berlin’s Brandenburg Gate on the €0.10, €0.20 and €0.50 coins, and the German eagle flapping around on the €1 and €2. the banknotes, if you’re wondering, are the same for the whole of euroland, and are adorned with generic European bridges.



really quite useful for avoiding confusion, and Germany is one of the few places where the 24-hour clock is even used in spoken language. You may be told that the museum closes at sixteen-thirty, or that the train departs at twenty-thirtyeight.

Visas Citizens of EU and EEA countries do not need visas to enter Germany; most others do. For more details, visit the website of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, www.auswaertiges-amt.de. Germany is part of the Schengen treaty, which allows free flow of goods and traffic between member states. This means that your passport only gets checked when entering and leaving the Schengen area, and once you’re in, you can travel overland from Portugal to Finland without being stopped at the borders.

The Rhein Occasionally in springtime the Rhine river builds up due to the melting of the snow in Switzerland, and overflows out onto the banks. There have been times in history where the flood reached well into the old town, and caused large amounts of damage and loss of life. The dangers from it today are less dire due to the temporary flood defences that can be quickly erected.

Speaking Kölsch Cologne’s Kölsch dialect can turn your working understanding of the German language into water. Not only are there different pronunciations of words, but there are also completely different words for some things as well. The dialect is mostly used by the older generations, and mostly with a patriotic flair. One of the distinctive sounds in the accent is the “ch” sound gets turned from an “ik” to an “ish”, and the “g” gets pronounced like a “y” on occasion. When the younger generations use the accent they are often humorously alluding to the sense of pride that people from Cologne have in their city and their identity.

Safety Germany is a very safe country to travel in, and other than the usual precautions against pickpocketing, there are no special preparations you should make. Although Germany has been in the news recently for racist attacks, these incidents are quite rare and are by no means a purely German phenomenon. Germans are aware that their country is more closely scrutinised than others when it comes to this, and racism and violence is not tolerated, witness the impressive level of security around synagogues and Jewish institutions: sturdy barriers and round-the-clock armed guards.

Time Germany uses the 24-hour clock system, known as military time in some places, but as simply as ‘the time’ here. By doing away with all the am, pm, noon and midnight nonsense, it’s

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June - July 2006

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eVents Theatre, Opera & Dance Find information about the more remarkable of these venues in the Sightseeing chapter.

Musical Dom Goldgasse 1, MHauptbahnhof, tel. 0180

515 25 30, www.musical-dome-koeln.de. Not unlike walking around a vast and creaky caravan, even the staff here call the city’s ghastly rock music venue the big blue garbage bag. Whilst there’s nothing wrong in principal with modern architecture, this place simply stinks. The Queen musical “We Will Rock You” (www.queen-musical.de) has been running since late 2000.

Opera (Oper der Stadt Köln) Offenbachplatz, MNeu-

markt, tel. 284 00, www.buehnenkoeln.de. Set amidst the trendiest part of the shopping district, this opera house never fails to impress. There are of course performances of classics such as Wagner and other composers, and they often have more modern operas as well.

Philharmonie Bischofsgartenstr. 1, MHauptbahnhof,

tel. 280 280, www.koelner-philharmonie.de. Opened in 1986, the Philharmonie has become know as one of Germany’s leading concert halls. Tickets can be ordered online.

eVents 13 July 2006, 20:00 Eric Clapton Kölnarena Willy-Brandt-Platz-1, tel. 0221 80 21

24 June, 11:00 Barbara Bechtloff Atelier Colonia, Körnerstr. 37-39

7 July 2006, 20:00 Joe Jackson Live Music Hall, Lichtstr. 30, tel. 0221 954 29 90

Opera

14-16 July Summer Jam Festival Europe’s largest Reggae and World Music festival Fuehlinger See

2 June, 19:30 Der Held der westlichen Welt Oper der Stadt Köln, Offenbachplatz, tel. 22 12 84

23 July, 19:00 The Rolling Stones RheinEnergieStadion

3 June, 19:00 Night of Italian Opera Tanzbrunnen, Rheinparkweg 1, tel. 821 21 21

26 July 2006, 19:00 Jamie Cullum Bonn, Museumsplatz, tel. 0228 91 71 200

4 June, 19:30 La Forza del Destino Oper der Stadt Köln, Offenbachplatz, tel. 22 12 84

Exhibitions

7 June, 19:30 Don Pasquale Oper der Stadt Köln, Offenbachplatz, tel. 22 12 84

www.stadion-koeln.de. Opened in 2004, this well-equipped and modern stadium is the venue for the World Cup games to be played in Cologne, as well as playing host to some of the biggest names in music. Robbie Williams is scheduled to play in August.

Until 5 June Global Players - Deutscher Fußball in aller Welt Deutsches Sport- und Olympiamuseum, Rheinauhafen 1

17 June, 13:00 Jarry Singla & Blumenbein C. Bechstein Forum, Opern Passagen, Glockengasse 6, tel. 925 85 07

Tanzbrunnen Rheinweg 1, MMesse Deutz, tel. 821 21

9 June, 18:00 Jazz & Art Kunstwerk, Deutz-Mülheimer Str. 127-129, tel. 880 07 67

21. The Tanzbrunnen (Dance Fountain) is a great open-air venue for live acts. It sits next to the Rheinpark, and plays host to many big shows and performances.

Exhibitions

23 June, 19:30 La Cifra Oper der Stadt Köln, Offenbachplatz, tel. 22 12 84

Theatre 11 June, 15:00 Drachenreiter Junges Theater Bonn, Hermannstr. 50-52, tel. 46 36 72

Tickets KölnTicket Große Neugasse 2, tel. 28 01, www.

koelnticket.de. Tickets for nearly all cultural and sports events, available online in German (pay by credit card) or from their office.

11 June, 14:30 & 19:30 We Will Rock You Musical-Dome, Goldgasse 1, tel. 577 90

Events

11 June, 19:30 A midsummer night’s dream Schlosserei, Krebsgasse, tel. 221-2 84 0

Classical music 10 June, 20:00 WDR Sinfonieorchester Köln Brahms, Strawinsky Philharmonie

15 June, 20:00 Rolling Stones un-PLACK-ed Tour Theater im Hof, Roonstr. 54, tel. 35 68 122

From 25 July, 20:00 19th Kölner Sommerfestival 2006 Martha Graham Dance Company Philharmonie

15 June, 15:30 Have you seen my little boy? Schlosserei, Krebsgasse, tel. 221-2 84 0 23 June, 19:30 Aymineh Cassiopeia Bühne, Martinsfeld 35, tel. 937 87 87

Concerts 15 June 2006, 18.30 Deep Purple Bonn, Museumsplatz, tel. 0228 917 12 00

Cologne In Your Pocket

In Your Pocket continues to expand, launching no less than eight new city guides in Germany, in time for the soccer World Cup. All World Cup host cities now have their own In Your Pocket, in print and available locally at hotels, and also online as both browseable text and a free downloadable PDF guide. Apart from that, there’s the free Football In Your Pocket insert guide which can be found in all In Your Pocket guides in Germany - the booklet has information on teams and stadiums and has a nifty fixtures table. Elsewhere, new guides will hit the streets of Kosovo, Macedonia and Montenegro this summer. If you would like to be a part of the Pocket group, publishing your own guide, contact us at [email protected] for more details. You can also keep up to date with the latest developments by logging on to www.inyourpocket.com/press.

14 June, 15:30 Hänsel und Gretel / Hans and Gretel Oper der Stadt Köln, Offenbachplatz, tel. 221 2840

6/7 July, 20:00 The Ten Tenors Philharmonie

11 July 2006, 19:00 James Blunt Tanzbrunnen, Rheinparkweg 1, tel. 0221 821 31 83

Europe In Your Pocket

2 June, 19:00 La Gare de Perpignan Museum Ludwig, Bischofsgartenstr.1, tel. 221 223 82

Salvador Dalí: La Gare de Perpignan Until 25 June Museum Ludwig, Bischofsgartenstr. 1

RheinEnergieStadion Aachener Strasse, tel. 498 36,

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24 June, 20:00 Arcipelago Circo Teatro Schokoladenmuseum, Rheinauhafen 1a, tel. 931 88 80 Sco

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World Cup Fan Fest

eVents Gay events 14-16 July Christopher Street Day Th e annual festi val o f C ol ogne’s gay and l esbian community 3 June, 19:30 Africa Gay & Friends Evening Sasch’s Bar, Wetzlarerstr. 2, tel. 88 75 471 6 June, 20:00 Knacki Deuser / Theater & Music Gloria, Apostelnstr. 11, tel. 258 36 56 19 June, 19:00 Wir sind, wie wir sind / Party Rubicon, Rubensstr. 8-10, tel. 19 44 6

Children’s events 3 June, 15:00 The ugly duckling By H.C. Andersen, for children from 5 years Cassiopeia Bühne, Martinsfeld 35, tel. 937 87 87 10 June, 16:00, The fattest Pinguin of Pol Childern’s theatre, from 3 years Horizont Theater, Thürmchenswall 25, tel. 13 16 04 17 June, 16:00 Being a lion is wonderful Circusmusical by Gertrud Pigor, from 4 years Horizont Theater, Thürmchenswall 25, tel. 13 16 04

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Cologne In Your Pocket

It’s Brazil’s Cup to Lose The idea that this could be one of the most open and fiercely contested World Cup tournaments in history has been doing the rounds in the press – especially the UK press – ever since England beat Argentina in a rather meaningless friendly match, held in Switzerland at the end of last year. (The match was also memorable for England captain David B e c k h a m’s p r e - g a m e comment that ‘it is a neutral venue for both teams.’) Since then the idea that Fresh from Champions the tournament is ‘open’, League success with in fact code for ‘England Barcelona, Ronaldinho have a chance’, has been increasingly winning friends will be looking for another World Cup triumph with and influencing people. To p u t a n y E n g l a n d Brazil.” © Mediafax Foto supporters reading this out of their self-induced hubris: England have absolutely no chance whatsoever of winning the World Cup; with or without Wayne Rooney. Indeed, the now legendary Rooney metatarsal injury has given the English press a ready excuse when England do indeed crash out of the tournament. It should not, however, hide the enormous failings that England currently suffer from. They still lack a proper goalkeeper, they have little depth up front, no genuine left-sided wide man, and in Steven Gerrard, Frank Lampard and David Beckham too many square pegs in round holes. England lack balance. Other nations in this tournament do not, and Brazil is one of them. Though the wealth of talent they have does – as it has to – mask their own failings, there is no question of their coach Carlos Alberto Parreira using all six of his best attacking players at the same time. Indeed. His decision to name his first XI as long ago as April was classic one-upmanship: the rest of the pack now knows exactly what it has to beat. England as we have discussed, are not qualified to do so. With their original tactic of ‘keep it tight at the back and hope Wayne knocks one in from 30 yards’ now out of the window. They have woken up to discover there is no plan B. Expect then, a variation on plan A: ‘keep it tight at the back and hope Frankie/Stevie/Becks knocks one in from 30 yards.’ Hardly the stuff of legend. Is any other nation prepared to meet Brazil’s challenge? Of the traditional ‘big guns’ Argentina looks frail and lacking in cohesion, Italy – amid scandal at home – look less capable even than England of putting together a decent run in the tournament, the host nation Germany currently possesses the worst team in their memory, Spain – crippled by the bizarre selection policy of its coach – will underachieve once more, and France are an ageing, wilting team hardly set for one last glorious hurrah. Only Holland, conspicuously absent from all talk of potential winners, look capable of mounting a decent challenge to Brazil. And even that will depend on their mood. Indeed, the In Your Pocket prediction is that Brazil’s likeliest challengers will be an outsider. We – for no reason more scientific than a hunch – think the Ukraine will do well. We also like the look of the United States, and if they can find the net often enough Portugal will do well. Yet none of these three will beat an on-form Brazil. And Brazil are the best team in Germany. Not since Italy surprised even themselves to take the trophy in 1982 has the best team in the World Cup gone home empty handed. The cup then is Brazil’s to lose. We doubt very much that they will do so. But as we said four years ago (while we were heavily tipping France) in a cup competition, anything can happen…

During the games the city centre will transform into a huge viewing area, with the three main city squares; Roncalliplatz, Heumarkt and Alter Markt allowing public viewing via large video screens. There will also be a number of gimmicky soccer courts set up in the squares, where punters can try their luck and perhaps snap a tendon in the process. There are a number of bars and pubs around town that will be showing the games live on big screen TVs. The Corkonian has two large screens, and are daily showing games played all over the world. The Corkonian is, however, at the Alter Markt (no.51, tel. 221 257 69 31) which is one of the venues for the public viewing on big screen TV’s outside, so it almost defeats the purpose. The Spor t and Olympia Museum (Rh einauha fen 1, www.sportmuseum-koeln.de, see p.??) have a special exhibit over the World Cup period called “Global PlayersDeutscher fussball in aller Welt” which focuses on German football players who have gone on to play in and for other countries. The Cologne Jazz Night 2006 runs from the 29th of June until the 7th of July at the Musikhochschule, and incorporates the World Cup into their performances with the individual bands and artists representing all the nations taking part in the games. The final days of the festival are devoted to seminars and workshops. Musikhochschule, Dagobertstrasse 38, tel. 221 912 81 80) At the Eifelturm Theatre (Eifelstrasse 33, tel. 221 32 17 92, www.eifelturm-koeln.de) there will be a fresh adaptation of musical The Phantom of the Opera revolving around football entitled “Das Phantom des Stadions”. The Germanlangauge musical tells the story of a trapped soul who haunts a football stadium, reminiscing about the Glory days of German football.

Bud or Bit So you came to Germany to taste the famous local brews? You’re in for a bit of a surprise if you’re planning to order beer in any of the stadiums or public viewing areas, as one of the main sponsors of the World Cup is Anheuser-Busch, the US brewery responsible for Budweiser and whose interpretation of what beer should taste like differs a bit from the European viewpoint. As exclusive beer sponsor they have the sole right to promote their beer in and around the official venues. Thankfully, after years of legal battle, Bitburger, Germany’s second-largest brewer, is allowed to sell their brew here as well, though not advertise it. Outside of the official venues, local bars are allowed to sell whatever beer they like.

Live acts The following live acts takeplace during the World Cup. On the 26th of June The Strokes will be performing at the Palladium. Tickets from www.noisenow.de. Palladium, Schanzenstrasse 40, tel. 221 967 90, www.palladiumkoeln.de. On 13 July, Eric Clapton will be playing at the Koelnarena, and is being supported by the Robert Cray Band, so if you get the chance to stick around after the final you will be in for a treat. Koelnarena, Willi-Brandt-Platz 2, tel. 221 80 20, www.eventim.de. On 10 June the Guerzenich-Orchestra will be performing at the open-air Tanzbrunnen (Rheinweg 1, tel. 221 821 21 21). They will be playing works by Mozart, Bizet and Strauss to name a few. For tickets contact Koelnticket at tel. 221 28 01.

World Cup Language Guide Tourist industry workers in Germany generally speak English well, but thanks to the annoying habit of dubbing everything foreign on television and in cinemas into German, the average local is not exposed to English very much. That’s why we’ve composed a little list of terms that may be of use during your trip. One/two/three/four/five beer, please. No thanks, I’ll have a Bit beer instead. So, who do you think will win? Where is the toilet? Where is the stadium? Where is the train station? That was offside. The referee is biased.

Sco

He should have scored there. He’s hit the post/ crossbar! Take off (player name)! Bring on (player name) Penalty! Goal!

Ein/zwei/drei/vier/fünf Bier, bitte. Nein Danke, ich hätte lieber ein Bit. Was glaubst du, wer gewinnen wird? Wo ist die Toilette? Wo ist das Stadion? Wo ist der Bahnhof? Das war Abseits. Der Schiedsrichter ist parteiisch. Das Tor hätte er schiessen müssen. Er hat den Pfosten / die Latte getroffen (player name) abziehen! (player name) einwechseln! Elfmeter! Toooooooooooooor!

June - July 2006

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KÖlsCh

FestiVals

The skyline of Cologne holds two very important features; th e Dom Cathedral and the Kölsch beer breweries. Laws governing the production of the fresh, pale beer state that a brewer y may only label their beer Kölsch if they are able to physically see the Dom, which generally means a radius of forty kilometres. While beer itself has been brewed in Cologne since 874, the term Kölsch was first coined in 1918 to describe the beer brewed by the Sünner brewery. There is a wide variety of flavours amongst the different breweries, and often each local has their favourite. An average year finds the annual consumption of Kölsch to be around 3 million hectolitres and it seems that about half of that disappears during Karneval. The Kölsch that has become synonymous with Karneval (carnival) is Reissdorf, which has a unique flavour to it that some describe as burnt, and others as biscuity. There are about thirty different breweries producing Kölsch, and some are owned by a conglomerate which in some people’s minds takes away from the character of the beer. Some breweries offer organised tours, and in 1999 the Zur Malzmühle brewery was paid a surprise visit by Bill Clinton. When drinking Kölsch in a bar or a club you will find the prices to vary hugely. During happy hour you can find a 200ml glass for as little as €0.80, while another bar might charge upwards of €2.80. The difference is largely based on location rather than quality, and everywhere you go you can expect a decent glass of beer. A nice place to sample lots of different Kölsch and other beers is the Biermuseum at Buttermarckt. Kölsch is traditionally served in a tall 200ml glass called a Kölsch-Stange. This tendency to serve such small quantities irritates some drinkers, who feel slightly effeminate (and thirsty) drinking out of such small and delicate glasses, although some bars and pubs serve irregular sizes like 300 or 400ml. The major breweries in Cologne have beer houses

Carnival Karneval is Cologne’s most famous celebration, and the party spirit invades everybody. Although the festival is held in later wi n ter, i n C ol ogn e i t’s possible to get a glimpse of Karneval year round. Th e o ri gi n s o f t h e celebration are a mixture of pagan festivities marking the transition of seasons and the Christian celebration of lent, and has been called the “fifth season”. The real meaning of Karneval these days revolves around breaking free of inhibition and going bonkers. The official beginning of Karneval is 11 November (at 11:11), which is like a warm-up party in preparation for the February madness. It hits like a hurricane; you are going about your day, business as usual and then suddenly you are drowned in a sea of crazy costumes and riotous party-goers. And this is just the warm-up. The real action begins on a Thursday in February, seven Sundays before Easter. On this day straw effigies are raised above the doorways of the pubs and bars. The purpose of these straw men called Nubbels is to absorb the sins of the party-goers. This means that when you drink to an excess and make gratuitous sexual advances towards many members of the opposite sex your sins are swallowed and you can have a clear conscience! Not a bad deal, unless you are the Nubbel. © Privatbrauerei Gaffel where you are served by Kölsch waiters called Köbes, who rush around making sure that no glass is empty. One of the signals you can give to indicate that you have had enough is to put your beer coaster on top of the glass. If you go to one of the breweries beer-halls you should expect to be served that type of Kölsch, and it is sociopathically bad taste to try to order a different one, but there is probably always at least one customer who does.

If you’re interested in carnival culture, there is a year-round museum dedicated to the history and practices of Karneval in Cologne west of the centre. Cologne Carnival Museum, Maar weg 134-136, (M) Müngersdorf, tel. 221 57 40 00, [email protected], www. kk-museum.de. Admission €4/1. Open 11:00 – 17:00, Thu 10:00-20:00, closed Mon.

An ale of two cities

ColognePride

When buying beer it is important to avoid making the embarrassing social faux-pas of ordering Altbier. Altbier is a darker beer of a quite similar type to Kölsch that is brewed mainly around nearby Düsseldorf, and the rivalry between the two cities finds expression in their choice of beer. So don’t stroll into a pub in Cologne and wonder why they do not serve Altbier and similarly expect bemused looks and mumbled obscenities if you ask for a Kölsch in Düsseldorf. The rivalry of the two cities is nowadays light-hearted, but if the point carries past a joke then some locals can feel offended. After Karneval 2006, the supermarkets in Cologne had such an oversupply of unsold Altbier that some had to reduce the price by 60% just to get rid of it.

© Brauerei Frueh

Cologne In Your Pocket

Everybody has their favourite brand of Kölsch, and it seems that the only way to find yours is to try as much as you can. We’re big fans of Mühlenkölsch, which has its own unique hoppy flavour. Each local will give you a list of reasons why their preferred brand is better but at the end of the day it just comes down to one thing: individuality. This sense of individuality captivates the spirit of Cologne, and forms a big part of the soul of the city.

The first night of Karneval is the biggest, and parties rage throughout the city. The old stone fortifications are a favourite site for musicians and revellers alike to dance the night away, and provide a unique backdrop for the festivities. It is tradition to wear outrageous costumes for Karneval, and half the fun of the festivities is admiring the creative choice of clothing. It is not unusual to share an elevator at work with a pirate, or to witness two people in full gorilla suits arguing about directions with a taxi driver. There are often informal and formal processions that pass through the city during Karneval, with some inviting partygoers to join in. Streets are closed off for these processions, and there are almost always musicians playing as they march, and fire-breathers lighting up the night sky. Karneval lasts through to Monday (Rosenmontag), when there is a huge procession of floats that pass through the streets of the city for 6km, throwing out candy and chocolate. It is tradition to shout out Kamelle (pronounced kamella) to get the attention of the passing float members for them to throw something nice to you. More than 2 million people each year attend the parade, and hundreds of thousands of chocolates and candies rain down upon them. Rosenmontag has a great family atmosphere, and there are always big smiles on the faces of the children as their bags of collected candy grows heavier and heavier. Parents can expect to hear complaints about stomach aches for days afterwards. The adult’s candy comes in the form of Kölsch beer, which is drunk in mind-boggling quantities. It is common for kiosks to raise their beer prices by over 30% during Karneval, so be warned. Getting a drink inside a bar or pub is like swimming against the tide, and many people can be found swilling Kölsch in the streets. Karneval winds down on the Rosenmontag, and at twelve am on Tuesday the Nubbel is taken down and ceremoniously burnt, thereby releasing all the soaked up sins of the Karneval partiers into oblivion - the poor Nubbel really does get a tough time. Accommodation during Karneval is scarce, and it is encouraged to book a year in advance in some hotels.

Cologne’s other famous festival is the gay C ol o g n e P ri d e fe s ti va l, h e l d f r o m 1 -1 6 J u l y and culminating in th e Christopher Street Day Parade on the last day. The parade is a celebration of gay pride and sexual tol e ra n c e, wi t h s t re e t parties and processions in the city centre. The festival attracts many thousands of visitors, both from within Germany and from overseas. For more information visit www. colognepride.de.

JvM

www.inyourpocket.com June - July 2006

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Where to stay

Where to stay Maritim C-3, Heumarkt 20, MHeumarkt, tel. 202

Hotel categories are based on the most expensive double room rate. Prices are rack rates, and are expected to go through the roof during the World Cup.

Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

Over €200

O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet W Wi-Fi

L Guarded parking

F Fitness centre

G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant

M Nearest metro station

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

Hilton B-2, Marzellenstr. 13-17, MHauptbahnhof, tel.

13 07 10, fax 13 07 20, [email protected], hilton. de/koeln. Opulent designer overtones and an industrial grey appearance lend a sophisticated air to one of Cologne’s best hotels. The rooms are, as one would expect, better than exceptional, featuring all the necessary gadgets plus beautiful oak floors and breathtaking views of the Dom. Trivia buffs with be delighted to learn that the England soccer team will be resting here during the World Cup. Q AGKLPTUW

Hotel Im Wasserturm B-3, Kaygasse 2, MPoststr, tel.

200 80, fax 2 00 88 88, [email protected], www.hotel-im-wasserturm.de. Housed in an old watertower, this is one of the most unique places to stay in Cologne, and one of the most exclusive. The feat of creating a 5-star hotel here has spawned spacious double-storey suites, beautiful views and inimitable style. You might end up in a bed used by Madonna or Brad Pitt. Q (10 singles N180 - 265, 44 doubles N210 - 335, 34 suites N240 - 385). ADGHKLPTU

Hyatt Regency Köln D-2, Kennedy-Ufer 2a, MDeutzer

Freiheit, tel. 828 12 34, fax 828 13 70, cologne@regency. hyatt.com, cologne.regency.hyatt.com. All of the rooms in the Hyatt (the first Hyatt in Europe you’ll no doubt be told several hundred times before you check out) are of the same standard, which is of course the best possible standard. Vast golden corridors, immaculate rooms and an awesome suite overlook the Dom across the river, adding to the effect and making this one of the loveliest choices in the city. Slightly out of the centre, but if you can afford to stay here then several taxi rides a day aren’t going to hurt you. Q (288 doubles N135 - 450, 17 suites N320 - 1935). ACDFGHKLPTUW

Intercontinental C-3, Pipinstr. 1, MHeumarkt,

70, fax 202 78 28, inf [email protected], w w w. maritime.de. A swish brass and marble affair with a glass lift shooting up and down between floors, Maritim can be found opposite Heumarkt. As well as boasting lots of orange and a team of jovial bellboys, there’s DSL internet in every room, baths in every room too, and lots of dark wood fittings. Extras include conference facilities, a smashing little tearoom and a piano bar. Per fect for both business travellers and loving couples in town for some serious cul ture and a bit of not-so serious shopping. Q (116 singles N147 - 318, 310 doubles N165 - 343, 16 suites N398 - 1000). ACDFGH� KLPTUW

Marriott C-1, Johannisstr. 76-80, MDom/Hauptbahn-

tel. 280 60, fax 28 06 11 11, [email protected], www.cologne.intercontinental.com. A ludicrously large lobby big ger than most hotels spells out loud and clear what you can expect at the Intercontinental. Impeccable and delightfully stylish, even the lowest category rooms here are bordering on awesome. With showers and baths in every room and copies of the teachings of Buddha to go with the bibles by the beds everything is bigger, better, and just that little bit different from the rest. Not a bad location either. Q (singles N160 - 405, 250 doubles N190 - 445, 12 suites N350 1850). ACDFGHKLPTUW

hof, tel. 94 22 20/94 22 27 77, cologne.marriott@ marriotthotels.com, www.colognemarriott.com. Opened at the beginning of 2006, this Marriot is an example of how it should be done. The futuristic lobby impresses, without being garish, the martinis in the cocktail lounge have won awards, the rooms are ultra comfortable and the service is impeccable. Q (10 suites N315 - 600, 184 King N165 - 429, 78 Twin N165 - 429, 1 Domsuite N365 - 800, 9 Studios N315 - 600). ADFGH� KLPRT

Kunibert Der Fiese C-2, Am Bollwerk 1-5, MHeumarkt,

Kreisel 3, MKölnmesse, tel. 221 27 72 00, fax 22 12 77 20 10, [email protected], w w w.radissonsas.com. Wi t h sub tl y styled rooms, prim and proper concierge and a bustling lobby, this hotel has something for ever yone. One might bump into Sarah Conner in the elevator, or perhaps join in the celebrations with the Brazilian World Cup fans, who are making this hotel home-base for 2006. The fitness area gets a little crowded when more than two people use it though. Q393 rooms (singles N110 378, d oubl es N110 - 369, suites N195 - 480). AD� FGHKLPRTU hhhh

tel. 9 25 46 80, fax 2 58 08 93, info@kunibertderfiese. de, www.kunibertderfiese.de. One of the best-located hotels in Cologne, right in the centre of the old town. There is a bustling restaurant at the front of the hotel, and the building dates back to 1234 AD. The rooms are basic, and some with a beautiful Rhine view. The service can sometimes be slow and vague. Q (9 singles N55 - 155, 9 doubles N65 - 205, 4 triples N85 - 225). AGKRT

€150-200 Crowne Plaza A-3, Habsburgerring 9-13, MRudolphplatz,

tel. 22 80, fax 25 12 06, www.cologne-citycentre.crowneplaza.com. Located in a hip area, this is the perfect base for access to both the Dom and Altstadt, as well as the trendy cafes, restaurants and nightclubs that lie along the Ring’s fringe. If you ask really nicely the porter will take you up onto the roof, where you get a magnificent view over Cologne from a surprisingly lofty height. Q (145 singles N135 - 185, 149 doubles N150 - 200). ACDFGHKLPRTU

Dom Hotel C-2, Domkloster 2a, MHauptbahnhof, tel.

202 40, fax 202 44 44, www.cologne.lemeridien.com. Location, location, location and a €8.5 million facelift make this spectacular hotel luxury personified. Lots of bright colours and Italian black marble set the backdrop to services that include breathtaking rooms with complimentary bathrobes, wireless internet and state of the art business facilities, plus all the other goodies one usually associates with a Le Meridien. If you can afford it, or if your company is footing the bill, you can’t do a lot better than a night here. Q (66 singles N150 - 395, 45 doubles N180 - 490, 13 suites N260 - 1100). AGHKLPW

Radisson SAS E-2, Messe

Ringhotel Kosmos

Sco

Cologne In Your Pocket

Wa l d e c ke r S t r . 1 1 - 1 5 , MWaldecker Str, tel. 6 70 90, fax 6 70 93 21, [email protected], www. kosmos-hotel-koeln.de. Laying unassumingly in wait at the beginning of the street, this hotel is an oasis in an otherwise drab area. The hotel itself has been family-run for 75 years, with three family members still doing shifts; a sign of commitment considering the size of the hotel. All the perks you expect, and prompt service to boot. Q (55 singles N, 95 doubles N). ACDGKLPRT

&INDYOUR(/-%SUITE(/-%INFOURDIFFERENTDESTINATIONSIN"ERLIN /UREXCLUSIVELYFURNISHEDHOTELROOMSANDAPARTMENTS FOUR STARSERVICE ANDFASCINATINGSURROUNDINGSWILLMAKEYOURSTAYSOMETHINGOUTOFTHE ORDINARY"ESIDESTHENORMALHOTELSERVICESSUCHASCLEANING RECEPTIONAND LAUNDRY WEPROVIDEANUMBEROFAMENITIESLIKESHUTTLESERVICE BIKERENTAL ORSHOPPINGSERVICE 4AKEAVACATIONFROMTHEORDINARYnWETAKECAREOFALMOST EVERYTHING
WWWHOME SUITE HOMEDE

June - July 2006

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Where to stay Dorint Sofitel An Der Messe E-2, Mullheimer Str.

Holiday Inn Köln-Am Stadtwald Dürener Str. 287,

22-24, Deutz, MKöln Messe, tel. 80 19 00, fax 80 19 08 00, [email protected], www.dorint.com/koeln-city. More a small world than a large hotel, this Dorint is a Mecca of comfort. The rooms are spacious and bright and will soften the hardest heart, but the jewel in this Dorint’s crown is the wellness area: saunas, spas, solariums, swimming pool, massages… they had to drag us screaming from this place. Q (86 singles N89 - 172, 133 doubles N89 - 190). ACDFGHKLPRTU

tel. 4 67 60, fax 43 37 65, www.koeln-am-stadtwaldholiday-inn.de. Located in a leafy area of Cologne, this hotel offers a peaceful contrast to the busier centre. True to its name, the hotel lies next to a sprawling forest and adjacent to an animal farm. Spend a few extra euros and book one of the rooms that overlook the small lake at the rear. Q (140 singles N108 - 250, 140 doubles N108 - 250, 8 Exucutive N128 - 270). AGHKLPTU

Dorint Sofitel Mondial Am Dom C-2, Kurt-Hack-

enberg-Platz 1, MDom/Hauptbahnhof, tel. 206 3 - 0, fax 2 06 35 27, [email protected], www.sofitel.com. You could not dream of a better situated hotel in Cologne. Standing next to the Museum Ludwig, the Philharmonie, the Romisch Germanisches Museum and the shadow of the Dom, this Sofitel is a favourite for those who can never get close enough to the action. The rooms are a little cramped, but well equipped. Q (8 singles N95 - 340, 91 doubles N115 - 360, 8 suites N195 - 440). AFGKLPRTU

aPark, tel. 2 71 50, fax 2 71 59 99, reservation.jhk@ jollyhotels.de, www.jollyhotels.de. The MediaPark is a conglomerate of business offices, and the Jolly sits on the edge of it. As one can imagine the majority of guests are businesspeople, but that doesn’t mean it doesn’t have a unique character. The Italian heritage brings elegance to the rooms, though not necessarily to the name, and there is quite a good view from the higher floors. Q (214 singles N160 - 320, 214 doubles N185 - 345, 4 suites N260 - 410). ADFGHKLPRTU

Euro Garden C-1, Domstr. 10-16, MHauptbahnhof,

Königshof B-2, Richartzstr. 14-16, MHauptbahnhof,

tel. 16 49 - 0, fax 16 49 - 333, sekretariat@eurotels. de, www.eurotels.de. A good standard mid-range choice just around the corner from the hauptbahnhof, Euro Garden features a choice of comfortable rooms with wireless internet, modern bathrooms and one or two good views if you choose your room carefully. The staff are friendly and helpful, and despite being a bit on the expensive side for what you get the hotel is a fine place to stay if you want to explore the centre without having to do too much travelling. Q (17 singles N120 - 245, 68 doubles N120 - 245, 1 suite N245). ADGHKLPUW

Enjoy your stay at the NH Nürnberg-City!

Jolly A-1, Im MediaPark 8b, MChristophestr./Medi-

Close to the historic railway station and the pedestrian zones of „Breite Gasse”, „Königsstraße” and „Kaiserstraße”, the NH Nürnberg-City offers you a warm welcome. The city’s most lovely museums invite you to a cultural experience. At christmastime, a visit to the famous Christkindlesmarket for Mulled Wine, Lebkuchen and Nuremberg Sausages is a must. The trade fair and the airport are quickly reached as well. Our rooms are generously equipped and offer lots of room to relax. In addition to a bath/shower and WC, all rooms have satellite TV, a mini bar, hairdryer, air-conditioning as well as high speed internet access. In the fitness area with its sauna, solarium and steam bath, you will find an opportunity to relax and rejuvenate. Revitalize yourself for the day at our generous and healthy breakfast buffet.

tel. 257 87 71, fax 257 87 62, hotel@hotelkoenigshof. com, www.hotelkoenigshof.com. Industry standard German boiled sweets on reception and cheerful staff keep watch over a choice of bright, cheerful and slightly feminine rooms with even more sweets on the pillows. Located close to the Dom, extras include hotel pickup in a Rolls Royce for those who can afford it and a bar full of photographs of famous guests you’ve never heard of. The perfect choice for retired couples and business ladies on an expense account. Q (40 singles N79 - 198, 42 doubles N99 - 225, 4 suites N215 - 315). AGLPW

The various business services of our hotel are at your demand whenever you require them for a seminar, meeting or large event. 7 function rooms for up to 290 people, fully air-conditioned and equipped with the latest in conference technology offer ideal conditions. Our business service team will assist you in every detail of planning and organization.

Lyskirchen C-2, Filzengraben 26-32, MHeumarkt, tel. 2

09 77 04, fax 2 09 77 26, nathalie.coulon@eventhotels. com, www.hotel-lyskirchen.com. Recently refurbished, this colourful yet elegant hotel combines a German sense of hospitality with a cosmopolitan air. Just off a side street from the Rhine, on Sundays you find a classy flea-market across the street. The chocolate museum is across the road also, so prepare to waddle back like a chocolate-stuffed duck. Q (21 singles N79 - 195, 75 doubles N102 - 279, 9 apartments N99 - 265). ACDGLPRT

Park Consul Clevischer Ring 121-123, tel. 9 64 70/9

64 71 00, [email protected], www.pckoeln.consul-hotels.com. Located in a mostly residential area, this hotel is suited to families and businessmen. The rooms are quite sunny, with big windows overlooking the neighbouring park. The adjoining restaurant provides international cuisine with a little Koelsch flair. Q (2 singles N69 - 215, 186 doubles N89 - 240, 8 suites N109 - 255). ADFGHKLPRT

Savoy B-2, Turinerstr. 9, MAppelhofplatz, tel. 162

Sco

Cologne In Your Pocket

30, fax 162 32 00, off [email protected], w w w. hotelsavoy.de. A truly delightful boutique hotel right in the city centre, the owners have gone to great lengths to provide a quirky and fun atmosphere with African and Asian themed floors and rooms featuring huge wooden giraffes in the corridors, bizarre furniture, flat screen televisions and plenty of luxury. The downstairs toilets have tropical fish tanks in them, the in-house bar has been fitted out with leopard skin chairs and the purple restaurant is run by an Australian chef, meaning there’s always kangaroo on the menu. Really nice staff too. Highly recommended. Q (38 singles N140 - 300, 44 doubles N170 - 400, 15 suites N345 - 600). ADGKLP

Experience “nhube”, our new restaurant idea that’s simply made for watching TV, surfing the internet, enjoying culinary delicacies, reading or simply relaxing.

Enjoy the exceptional cuisine which Ferran Adrià has exclusively prepared for you. Varied, simple and exquisite.

NH NÜRNBERG-CITY Bahnhofstraße 17-19 | 90402 Nürnberg T. 0911 9999-0 | F. 0911 9999-100 [email protected]

Discover the new multifunctional area created by Ferran Adrià and NH Hoteles, where restaurant services, leisure and entertainment are combined.

Feel the pleasure of reading, listening to music, having a meal… in a setting which has been designed to cater for all your needs.

www.nh-hotels.com

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Where to stay

Where to stay Am Chlodwigplatz C-4, Merowingstr. 33, MChlodwigplatz, tel. 9 31 24 40, fax 33 14 84, [email protected], www.hotel-am-chlodwigplatz. de. A charming hotel with a strong sense of hospitality. The bar is almost kitschy and at the same time irresistible. The hotel is located within a relaxed walking distance to the Volksgarten, along parisienne-like streets. While it may be a little difficult to find it is truly a hidden treasure. Q (15 singles N55 - 80, 8 doubles N90 - 106, 4 triples N106 - 124). AL An der Philharmonie C-2, Große Neugasse 36-38,

MHauptbahnhof, tel. 258 06 79, fax 258 06 67, info@ hotel-allegro-koeln, www.hotel-an-der-philharmonie.de. A charming family-run boutique hotel close to the river and the Philharmonie as the name suggests, find free internet in the lobby and cute wallpapered rooms with wooden furnishings throughout. The rooms mostly come with a shower only, but are bubbling with character, and the suite although nothing too fancy is great value. Q (10 singles N63 - 135, 25 doubles N79 - 140, 6 suites N89 - 150). AGHLP Sco

The New Yorker Hotel Mülheimer Str. 204, Deutz, MGrünstr, tel. 4 73 30/4 73 31 00, reservation@ thenewyorker.de, www.thenewyorker.de. Staying here feels like staying at a rich friend’s place. Adorned with chic couches, a well sculpted garden, library, fitness room, sauna and solarium, it’s perfect for those seeking a personal touch. Q (7 singles N109 - 246, 33 doubles N129 - 268). AD� FGLPRT

€75-150 AAA BudgetHotel Eupener Str. 161, MTechnolo-

giePark, tel. 221 49 70 20, fax 22 14 85 10 01, hotel@ tpk.de, www.aaa-budgethotel.de. Straightforward and comfortable for the price, this place will satisfy you if you need to budget. As well as doubles there are two types of singles; normal singles and no-room-to-swing-a-cat singles. Get there with the train, or face an uneventful 15 minute walk from the tram stop. Q29 rooms (singles N44 - 80, doubles N63 - 100). AGHLPRT

Alemania C-1, Domstr. 23-25, MDom/Hauptbahnhof,

tel. 912 83 40, fax 912 83 49, www.alemania-hotel. de. This family-owned and -run hotel is in a slightly ugly area, but is still very close to the Dom and the Altstadt. The area surrounding the hotel is severely lacking in good restaurants though, and you have to cross an awkward train station to get into the centre. Q (6 singles N59 - 64, 22 doubles N79 - 89, 2 triples N120). AGL

Berg C-1, Brandenburgerstr. 6, MHauptbahnhof, tel.

12 11 24, fax 139 00 11, [email protected], www. hotel-berg.com. A small family-run hotel that offered us the very best German hospitality by refusing to show us anything when we visited. All we can say is that the location is pretty good, but the staff haven’t got much time for visitors. Check their appalling website for further information if you must. Q (8 singles N41 - 135, 11 doubles N49 - 145). ADHLPW

Caprice C-2, Auf dem Rothenberg 7-9, MHeumarkt, tel.

92 05 40, fax 92 05 41 00, [email protected], www.cityclass.de. An absolute swine to find being located in a square rather than on the street marked on the map, once you’ve found it Caprice is well worth it. Right in the tourist trap area by Heumarkt, being in a secluded area means it’s peaceful, and the rooms, by no means the epitome of luxury, are clean albeit unrenovated. All rooms come with a shower only with the exception of the suite, and extras are few and far between. Q (12 singles N45 - 249, 41 doubles N59 - 299). ADGLPW

Coellner Hof B-1, Hansaring 100, MHansaring, tel. 16

66 0, fax 166 166, [email protected], www.coellnerhof.de. There are many types of rooms here, and they all have their own character. Some rooms are called “country” style, which means lots of wood. The service is pretty sharp which is surprising considering how busy they are. The good location is most of the attraction here, especially if your trip is for business. Q (40 singles N65 - 150, 38 doubles N85 195, 14 triples N105 - 205). ADGKLRT

Constantin D-2, Constantinstr. 78, MKöln Deutz, tel.

8 27 80, fax 81 89 50, [email protected], www.hotelconstantinkoeln.de. This hotel changed hands in 2005, and is undergoing renovation and refurbishment. Built in 1907, the building is protected, and each room is slightly different, which adds to the appeal. Enjoy the 1970s room décor and the old-school bar at the front. Q (14 singles N45 - 85, 20 doubles N60 - 160). AGR

Dorint Novotel Köln City C-3, Bayenstr. 51, MHeu-

markt, tel. 80 14 70, fax 80 14 71 48, h3127@accor. com, www.novotel.com. Boasting Rhein views, fitness and wellness area, cocktail bar and a Mediterranean restaurant, this well situated hotel pleases everyone who stays there (which seems to be mostly businessmen). The views over the southern part of the centre are less pretty, but quieter. In five minutes walk you are in the Altstadt. Reservations also for 1Bed and 3Bed rooms. Q (220 doubles N49 - 309). ADFGHKPRT

Good Sleep B-2, Komödienstr. 19-21, MHauptbahn-

hof, tel. 257 22 57, fax 257 22 59, info@goodsleep. de, www.goodsleep.de. The workers’ canteen of the hotel world, Good Sleep balances a great location with cheap and cheerful accommodation and gets the mix just right. The rooms are clean and minimal, with lino floors, basic beds and a choice of en suite and excellent shared bathroom facilities. A superb hotel for the cost-conscious traveller, be sure to book well in advance. Q (12 singles N35 - 250, 25 doubles N35 - 250). GP

Haus Berger Uferstr. 73, MSiegstr, tel. 22 19 35 52

40, fax 221 935 52 46, rezeption@hotel-haus-berger. de, www.hotel-haus-berger.de. Sitting on the shore of the Rhein, this hotel adjoins and overlooks the Berger camping ground. Right next door is a preserved nature area that stretches for miles, and across the road are farming pastures with horses. The hotel itself is a family affair, and friendliness pervades the spirits of the guests. Q (7 singles N45 - 65, 7 doubles N70 - 100, 1 triple N85 - 115). KLT

Ibis Köln City Messe/Arena E-2, Brügelmannstr. 1,

MKöln Messe, tel. 98 93 10, fax 98 93 15 55, www. ibishotels.com. An Ibis is an Ibis is an Ibis, and guess what? This is an Ibis. It has all the features that satisfy, and is perfectly located for trade fairs and sightseeing. Relatively cheap compared to the haughty neighbouring hotels, however the breakfast room may be flooded by tour bus-loads of guests at times. also reservations for 1bed rooms Q (180 doubles N65 - 74). AGKLPR

Im Kupferkussel A-2, Probsteigasse 6, MChristoph-

strasse/MediaPark, tel. 2 70 79 60, fax 27 07 96 29, [email protected], www.im-kupferkessel.de. Located in a quiet part of the centre, this family-run hotel will suit anyone looking for a homey atmosphere. The breakfast room has a very German charm to it, even including a wooden spiral staircase leading to the owner’s rooms. Q (10 singles N32 - 80, 3 doubles N69 - 118). AL

Kolpinghaus Messehotel D-3, Theodor-Hürth-Str. 2-4, MSüvenstrasse, tel. 88 04 47 10, fax 8 80 447 19, [email protected], www.kolping-messehotel.de. Situated in a residential street, this hotel looks and feels like a comfortable block of apartments, no doubt due to the recent refurbishment. The service is very good, and the bar inside the hotel has a Rhenish charm about it. Well suited to businessmen and families, but too distant for walking excursions into town. Q (2 singles N69 - 89, 20 doubles N89). AGKLRTU

Cologne In Your Pocket

Marienburger Bonotel Bonner Str. 478, MBayanth-

algürtel, tel. 370 20, fax 3 70 21 32, [email protected], www.bonotel.de. A little out of the way, and slightly hard to get to, but worth the distance for the wellness area. Spas, saunas and solariums are all inclusive, which, coupled with the elegantly styled rooms, leaves a guest wondering why the hotel is not more expensive. Q (55 singles N65 - 235, 34 doubles N74 - 235, 4 suites N145 - 435). ADFG� KLPT

NH Köln City C-3, Holzmarkt 47, MHeumarkt, tel.

2 72 28 80, fax 2 72 28 81 00, nhkoeln@nh-hotels. com, w w w.nh-hotels.com. This hotel has a professional atmosphere to it, which at times feels a little impersonal bu t also is non-intrusive. The rooms are tidy, well organised and business-like. Even though it lies on the Rhein the view isn’t too great, but the location is one of the big selling points. also reser vations for 1bed rooms Q 205 rooms (204 doubles N75 - 285). ADGHKLPRTU

Prodomo Deutz-Mülheimerstr. 184, tel. 96 46 00,

fax 96 46 02 00, [email protected], www. prodomo-hotel.de. A 20-minute ride on the U-bahn from the city centre this prefabricated budget hotel has seen better days, which probably weren’t all that good then. Still, it’s a fairly friendly place, and if your looking for a cramped room with cable television and a basic shower with breakfast in exchange for not too much money then Prodomo is your place. A bit niffy in places, make sure you have a good sniff inside a room or two before you make your pick. Q (1 single N35 - 105, 131 doubles N51 - 145). AKLPU

June - July 2006

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restaurants

Where to stay Residence C-2, Alter Markt 55, MHeumarkt, tel. 920 19

80, fax 92 01 98 99, [email protected], www. cityclass.de. Ghastly yellow corridors and a pensive lift await guests inside this city centre budget hotel. The rooms all come with a distinct lack of trimmings, tasteless 80s furniture, Pay TV, showers and little else. Although perfectly adequate and far from grotty, one word of warning about taking a place in such a good location is that good locations fill with people who more often than not drink lots of beer (the hotel is dangerously close to two Irish pubs) and start singing, usually under your window and more often than not just as you’re falling asleep. Take earplugs or drink even more than the neighbours do and you’ll be just fine. Q (11 singles N45 - 314, 45 doubles N59 - 279). AGHLW

Rhein-Hotel St. Martin C-3, Frankenwerft 31-33,

MHeumarkt, tel. 257 79 55, fax 257 78 75, rheinhotel@ netcologne.de, www.koeln-altstadt.de/rheinhotel. A small budget hotel next to the river, ideal for people wanting to get the most from the city for the least expense and who can get through life without a trouser press. The unrenovated facilities are basic and clean, featuring a choice of humble rooms, some en suite and some with shared bathroom facilities. One of the best choices in the city for those who plan to spend most of their time out and about and who just need a comfy bed and cable television close to the last bar they fall out of in the middle of the night. Q (23 singles N28 - 90, 19 doubles N44 - 145, 2 apartments N90 - 225). AGL

Weber A-3, Jahnstr. 22, MZülpicherstr, tel. 27 22 99 50, fax 272 29 95 40, [email protected], www. hotelweber.de. German comfort and style at an affordable price, this place is a favourite for regular guests. There is a garden at the rear that invites quite reading and coffeesipping. Being a stone’s throw from Zülpicherplatz, there is always something to do at night around this hotel. Q (13 singles N45 - 65, 14 doubles N65 - 95). AGLT

Airport hotels Mercure Hotel Köln Airport Hauptstr. 369, MPorz

Markt, tel. 55036, fax 5 59 31, [email protected], www.mercure.com. A recently renovated hotel that meets the needs of many guests seeking repose near the airport, and is one of the best equipped for it. The river Rhine is directly behind the hotel, and it is well worth the little extra cash to get a room with a beautiful view. dial before: 02203 Q (9 singles N91 - 219, 50 doubles N115 - 219). AGKLPR

Hostels

American

Jugendherberge Köln-Deutz D-2, Siegestr. 5,

Hard Rock Café A-2, Gürzenichstr. 8, MHeumarkt, tel.

MMesse Deutz, tel. 81 47 11, fax 88 44 25, [email protected], www.koeln-deutz.jugendherberge.de. This modern hostel feels like a school, with young crowds talking boisterously in the lobby much of the time. The position is good, and the rooms are clean and well cared for. There seems to be a lot of large groups staying there, either for school trips or backpackers. Q (71 singles N39, 71 doubles N59, 72 triples N93). AGHLU

Jugendherberge Köln-Riehl An Der Schanz 14,

MBoltonsternstr, tel. 76 70 81, fax 76 15 55, [email protected], www.djhrheinland.de. Best suited to those travelling in groups, as a lone traveller may feel isolated and lonely in this hostel’s college-atmosphere. It’s well situated, if a little distant which is no problem if you rent a bike as the ride into town is stunning. Q (114 singles N22 - 34, 114 doubles N27). AGLU

Station Hostel Backpackers B-2, Marzellenstr.

44-56, MAppelhofplatz, tel. 912 53 01, fax 912 53 03, [email protected], www.hostel-cologne.de. Ikea furniture and lots of plants in the rooms create a ver y un-h ostel t ype of h ostel h ere. Bet ter looking that just about any thing in its class, facilities include iron-frame beds and a choice of basic en suit showers or excellent shared bathroom facilities. To save you getting lost in the labyrinth of corridors, a large red stripe with stencilled signposts has been added along the walls throughout. Q (3 singles N35, 20 doubles N28 - 50). A

Camping Camping Berger Uferstrasse 71, Rodenkirchen,

MSiegstrasse, tel. 221 935 52 40, fax 221 935 52 46, [email protected], www.camping-bergerkoeln.de. There is an undeniable community spirit here at the camping ground, and the location is beautiful. The trails along the Rhein are perfect for cycling. A rather alarming measure stick shows the various flood water levels of past years. Q L

221 272 68 80, www.hardrock.com. If you are familiar with the layout of a Hard Rock Café then you can probably find your way around here in the dark. There is music paraphernalia on the walls, loud rock playing on the sound system, and burgers. The vast majority of patrons are from outside Germany, and it’s interesting to sit and listen to all the different langauges. Q AEP

Joe Champs A-3, Hohenzollernring 1-3, MRudolphplatz,

tel. 221 257 28 54, www.joe-champs.com. Joe Champs serves up a hefty slice of Americana here. Typical dishes are predictably burgers, steaks and pizzas while the décor revolves around American sport memorabilia. The restaurant is patronised mostly by international guests; a German accent is almost out of place here. Q AEP

Asian Anothai A-3, Hohenstaufenring 15, MBarbarossaplatz,

tel. 221 397 69 70. Thai restaurants are either too noisy or too quiet, and this one is the former. Their crispy baked duck is probably what attracts the crowd. Anothai also does some really good fish dishes, if you can handle the chilli. Q Open 12:00-14:30, 18:00-24:00. Sat 18:00-24:00. AP

Kintaro A-2/3, Friesenstr. 16, MFriesenplatz, tel. 221

13 52 55. This modern Japanese restaurant as developed a very good reputation over the years for their outstanding sushi and sashimi. This has unfortunately pushed the prices up, but you can be assured of top quality fish. The set-up is modern, and they have a comfortable outside seating area in the back. Q Open 12:00-14:00, 18:30-23:00, Mon, Fri 18:30-23:00. Closed Sun. ABP

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Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

G Non-smoking areas

L Guarded parking

O Casino

M Nearest bus station

R Internet

W Wi-Fi connection

Beer houses Bier Esel B-2, Breite Str. 114, tel. 257 60 90. For traditional Koelsch cuisine the “beer donkey” restaurant/beer-house is great, and the ambiance is decidedly old fashioned. Hundreds of antique pepper-grinders line the walls, and it is hard not to spend a long time staring at them. In the rear there is a comfortable outside area. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. AB

Brauhaus Früh am Dom C-2, Am Hof 12-14, MHeu-

markt, tel. 261 30, www.frueh.de. A vast beer hall and restaurant on three floors with seating for 1,500 people, gorgeously decorated in an early 20th-century brauhaus style with wood panel walls and huge ceramic tiled stoves, put this on your list of places to go if you go nowhere else. Frequented by a menagerie of classy locals, the menu is a combination of local and international cuisine and the beer comes courtesy of the local Früh brewery. With additional outside seating in the summer and an all-round laid-back atmosphere, this is precisely the kind of thing that makes Germany such an attractive place to visit. Brilliant stuff. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. AB

Sumo A-3, Aachener Str. 17-19, MRudolphplatz, tel. 0221 222 15 90, www.sumo-restaurant.de. A perfect example of fantastic Japanese service and delicate Japanese food, and more importantly; Japanese beer. Swill some saki and Asahi here while enjoying the freshest sushi in Cologne. Located along the very trendy Aachener Strasse, this restaurant is the perfect starting point for a great night out. Q Open Tue-Fri 12:00-15:00, 18:00-23:00, Sat, Sun 17:30-23:00. Closed Mon. AP

Taku B-2, Domplatz, MHauptbahnhof, tel. 270 39 10,

www.taku.de. A river of fish built into the floor and a catwalk welcome the rich and famous of Cologne inside one of the swankiest and frighteningly expensive restaurants in Germany. Specialising in Asian food from Japan, China, Vietnam and Thailand and featuring a small bar serving Asian cocktails, the food and the service are both outstanding, which goes some way to justifying spending your weekly grocery bill on something that leaves you feeling like you could eat a little more at the end of it. Q Open 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 24:00. A

Viman Luxemburger Str. 185, MWießhausstr, tel. 221

421 06 71. One of the more remote restaurants, but also one of the best. The service is very good here, and the furnishing has been set up well to create a genuine Vietnamese atmosphere. If you’re tired of Thai food then try the subtleties of Vietnamese cuisine - this restaurant is the place to get your fix. Q Open 12:00-15:00, 18:00-24:00. AP

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Cologne In Your Pocket

www.inyourpocket.com

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June - July 2006

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restaurants

restaurants Café Storch A-3, Aachenerstr. 17, MRudolphstr, tel. 221 25 17 17. Enjoy the best hot chocolate in town here with the eclectic regulars, writing, reading and romancing in this cosy, original café. Monday night finds fledgling authors reading their work, be it good or bad, amongst mountains of candle wax, yellow walls and minimal pretentiousness. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. €3-8. B Fromme B-2, Breite Str. 122-126, MAppellhofplatz, tel. 221 257 61 57. If you wake up one morning and decide that you simply must eat cake immediately, then this is the place for you. There is an extensive outside seating area, which provides the perfect place to soak up the sun while enjoying coffee and a few cakes (just one piece is not enough). The café itself has been going since 1893, and it looks like it will keep on going forever. Q ABP

© KölnTourismus/ Günther Ventur

Brauhaus Gaffel C-2, Alter Markt 20-22, MHeumarkt,

Holtmann’s Café C-2, Bischofsgartenstr. 1, MHaupt-

tel. 257 76 92, www.gaffel-haus.de. A fun beer hall selling the local Gaffel Kölsch and little else, this well located boozer is decorated with lots of wooden benches and old tiled walls, and is a huge hit with the local 40-something set, seemingly as sick as the rest of us with the current obsession with pretentious cocktails in hideous surroundings. Why anyone would want to start a world war when there are bars like this to hang around in is anyone’s guess. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. AB

bahnhof, tel. 25 09 99 77, www.holtmanns.com. Vast and tinkly, the Ludwig Museum’s café is, as one would expect, brimming with arty types and students. Serving better coffee that many, they do unfortunately feel the need to employ someone to bash out rotten tunes on a grand piano. But all is not lost, as the vast ceiling-to-floor windows overlook the regular pantomime enacted on top of the roof of the Philharmonie every time a performance takes place. Go and have a look for yourself. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. AE

Brauhaus Reissdorf B-3, Kleiner Griechenmarkt

Orlando A-3, Engelbertstr. 9, MZülpicherplatz, tel.

40, MPoststr., tel. 21 92 54. Five minutes west of Neumarkt in a quiet, leafy part of the city, this beer hall is almost swanky. The beer on offer is the wonderful Reissdorf Kölsch, and there’s a large menu of typical German fare as well as a few surprises such as Russian eggs and potato pancakes on offer as well. Great for evenings out with large groups. Q Open 10:00 - 14:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 24:00. A

Weissbraeu zu Köln B-3, Am Weidenbach 24,

0221 23 75 23, www.cafeorlando.de. One of the few completely non-smoking cafés in Köln. Enjoy the clean air as well as the breakfast selection, the variously flavoured coffees and the elegant design. The service might not be the quickest in town, but they have an apple and walnut cake that will rock your world. Q Open 09:00 - 24:00. BEGP

Canton C-2, Heumarkt 45, MHeumarkt, tel. 258 23 65.

Cafés

tel. 258 17 18. Ignore the set menus and enjoy the very best that China Jumbo’s has to offer, that being a gigantic eat-all-you-can buffet (12:00 - 15:30 and 18:00 - 21:00) for just €7.80 during the week and €9.20 on Saturdays and Sundays. The range is immense, including pork, beef, chicken, spring rolls, friend rice, noodles, soup and salad, and it’s good too. Great value. Highly recommended. QOpen 11:30 - 22:00. A

42 88 63. A great little café in an out of the way location. Spend hours here enjoying huge bowls of hot chocolate and delicious soups, while perhaps reading, writing or playing one of the board games that they have available for patrons. You can easily lose a day in this cruisy place. QOpen 10:00 02:00. P

Café Heumarkt C-3, Heumarkt 20, MHeumarkt, tel. 202 70. Despite being a hotel café this place is really rather nice. Shades of Ar t Deco and a rocking horse for overactive infants make the imbibing of fancy teas and the nibbling of fancy cakes that bit more enjoyable. During the summer months, when the Heumarkt is burstin g wi th foreigners, Café Heumark t offers a pleasant escape from the ghastly masses, and is wor th more investigation. Surprisingly recommended. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. A

Cologne In Your Pocket

Oruc Kebab A-3, Kyffhäuser Str./Heinsbergstr.,

MBarbarossaplatz. The best kebab joint in town. A kebab from Oruc’s will be in your memory forever, but in a good way. Whether you drop by before a big night on the town, or just swing past to cap off a massive binge you will find satisfaction here. There is window-sill hippy seating so you can watch the passers by.

Fine dining La Vision B-3, Kaygasse 2, MPoststr, tel. 22 12 00 80. Crowning the glory that is the Hotel Im Wasserturm, this restaurant is very unique and highly renowned. Earning itself a Michelin star and a reputation for outstanding service, La Vision will not fail to impress. There is outside seating in the warmer nights along the terrace overlooking Cologne. Spend a relaxing half hour reading the wine list. Q Open Tue-Sat 12:00-14:30, 19:00-22:00. Closed Sun, Mon. ABEP h

French Bar Tabac A-3, Aachener Str. 21, MRudolphplatz, tel. 221 258 92 19, www.bartabac.de. De-facto French territory. Once inside, the street sounds drop away and you are in a world of acid jazz and soufflé. It is actually a very large place, and offers great French food and yet has somehow avoided the inherent pomposity most French restaurants exude here. Q A

tel. 922 76 52, www.bon-ami.de. A small, award-winning restaurant with a very hands-on owner, exquisite food and thoughtful inclusions such as things to keep children amused. Popular with business professionals and families alike, the small French and Mediterranean menu changes daily, and there’s a wonderful wine list to boot. Be warned though that places like these don’t come cheap. If you can afford €14.50 for a soup then this is the right place for you. Q Open 12:00 - 14:00, 18:00 - 22:00. Closed Sat, Sun. AT

Capricorn I Aries C-4, Alteburgerstr. 34, MChlodwig-

platz, tel. 221 32 31 82. This restaurant has four tables, scatters rose petals outside every night and serves caviar and foie gras. Started in 2002, this gourmet kitchen offers something very special. If you find it booked full then their brasserie across the road is a very decent substitute, if not compliment. There is a French style to the menus, and a comfortable atmosphere which cushions the impact of the bill. Q Open Wed-Sun 19:00-22:30. Closed Mon, Tue. AP

La Societe A-3, Kyffhäuserstr. 53, MBarbarossaplatz,

tel. 221 23 24 64. The atmosphere inside this leading restaurant is quite dark and heavy, but the food by contrast is delicate and light. Anyone not accustomed to bärlauch (bear’s or wood garlic) should try the eponymous soup, which is the best introduction you can have to the taste. The mains are a little pricey, but well worth it. Some people come here specially for their fantastic desserts. Q AP

Full listings on-line: www.inyourpocket.com

Chinese

MEifelstr., tel. 221 23 18 23, w w w.weissbraeu. com. The attraction of this brew-house is its Weissbier, a cloudy white beer that is both refreshing and filling. The food is solidly German, with slight leaning to the south - you can’t have Weissbier without Bavarian food. Try the blood sausage if you dare. You can buy three types of home brew in 2 litre quantities for €5, providing you return the jug, other wise it costs €10 more. Q Open 11 - 01-00. AB

Café Duddel Zülpicher Wall 8, MDasselstr, tel. 221

Bon Ami B-2, Komödienstr. 50-52, MAppelhofplatz,

Fast food

Golden dragons set into the ceiling and a saucy middle-aged waitress in tight shorts are reasons enough to swing by this restaurant, and if it’s decent Chinese food you’re after then they’ve got a bit of that as well. The menu is fairly extensive albeit unimaginative, and they also do a good value weekday lunch for around €10 (11:30 - 15:00). Q Open 11:00 - 15:00, 17:30 - 23:00. A

China Jumbo’s B-2, Perlenpfuhl 6, MNeumarkt,

Peking am Dom B-2, Marzellenstr. 2-8, MHaupt-

bahnhof, tel. 13 76 44. Specialising in Cantonese food, Peking am Dom, once you’ve managed to find the door, is reminiscent of something you’d find in China itself, being neither ostentatious nor grotty. Proof of its class is witnessed by the scores of Chinese locals who use the place regularly, eating from a separate menu of authentic food that is only available to those who can read Chinese. Entrance in around the corner from the actual address, through a plain door and up a couple of flights of stairs. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.

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restaurants L’Escalier B-3, Brüsseler Str. 11, MMoltkestr, tel. 221

205 39 98. This French restaurant exudes an air of exclusivity from the outside. The menu itself is a mixture of French and German cuisine, with a leaning towards the delicious. The décor lacks imagination, but the food does not. The restaurant is located on a relatively quiet street, and there is a peaceful atmosphere in the area. Q Open 12:00-14:00, 18:30-22:00, Mon, Sat 18:30-22:00. Closed Sun. AP

German Bacchus A-3, Rathenauplatz 17, MZülpicherplatz,

tel. 221 21 79 86, www.weinstubebacchus.de. A little outside garden area at the front is one of the best places to drink wine in the town, with flowers and vines surrounding you. If you are looking for a nice, peaceful night out then this is the place for you. The food is traditional German cuisine, but their main focus is on wine. Q ABP

Bei Oma Kleinmanns A-3, Zülpicher Str. 9, MZülpi-

cherplatz, tel. 221 23 23 46. For a good, filling, traditional German meal there is no better place to go than Granny Kleinmann. The climate is a little smoky and loud but the food is great and cheap. If you like wood then you will love the interior, which to our eyes can be a bit dark. QOpen 17:00 - 01:00, Sun 14:00 - 01:00. A

Bootshaus Alte Liebe Am Leinpfad, MSchönhauser Str,

tel. 221 39 23 61, www.bootshaus-alte-liebe.de. There could be no more perfect place to enjoy a Sunday afternoon, listening to the Rhein waters flow past the former boatshouse while basking in the sun and eating traditional Rhenish food. On the downside, it is a little pricey and the service can be slow. Under the Rodenkirchener bridge. Q AB

restaurants Der Löwenbräu C-2, Frankenwer f t 21, MHeu-

markt, tel. 257 45 40, w w w.der-lowenbrau.de. Featuring the kind of staff you usually find in a five-star hotel, Der Löwenbräu, smack bang in the middle of tourist hell, is a delight. Choose to eat among wooden walls covered in paintings and old photographs of Cologne or outside by the river if the weather’s warm enough. The menu features the legendar y Nuremberg sausage alongside the usual sauerkrau t, pork knuckle, lamb and fish. Forgetting the fact that they pander passing tour groups with a menu of drear y Italian dishes, this place knocks the spots off its competitors. Q Open 10:00 - 03:00. AB

Feynsinn A-3, Rathenaplatz 7, MZülpicherplatz, tel. 22 12 40 92 10. Situated next to a sedate park, this café is a bustling hive of eating, drinking and socialising. There is a friendly atmosphere inside, and the music is laid back. It is not such a big place, and it can get a little crowded in there, but the food is fresh and filling. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. Closed Wed, Thu. A

Haus Zims C-2, Heumarkt 77, MHeumarkt, tel.

258 12 61. A very German affair indeed, Haus Zims is an unpretentious restaurant that attracts a good number of locals as well as tourists, thanks in part to its relaxed and cheerful staff and not least because of the heart attackinducing food on offer. The reasonably priced menu includes the standard roll call of schnitzel, sausages and sauerkraut, the fearsome Farmer’s Pan (pork chop, bacon and grilled sausage) and a few exotic surprises including ostrich and a highly commendable wine list. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. B

Sco

Greek Aphrodite Aachener Str. 698, Junkersdorf, MAlter

Militärring, tel. 221 49 33 31. If you like Greek food, then a trip out to Aphrodite is a must. Because of its remote location it has relied solely on the quality of its food to attract customers, and it has paid off. The aroma that greets you is a delicate mixture of olive oil and spices, and it is beyond any normal human’s power to resist eating enough to require a loosening of the belt. Q Open 12:00-14:30, 17:30-23:00. Closed Mon. ABP

Indian Bombay Palace B-3, Am Weidenbach 21, MPoststr,

tel. 221 32 43 43. You can smell the powerful aromas that waft from the kitchen hundreds of metres away, and they’re guaranteed to make you hungry. A great place for vegetarians, and even a committed carnivore would love the Bombay Potatoes. One of the best Indian restaurants in Cologne. Q Open 12:00-14:30, 18:00-23:00. AP

Jaipur B-2, Marzellenstr. 50-56, MHauptbahnhof, tel. 13 73 22, www.jaipur-indisches.com. Deliciously silly décor including a stuffed tiger and lots of photographs of snake charmers in Cologne’s highly regarded Indian restaurant. Specialising in north Indian cuisine, this award-winning establishment offers a good menu of food including several vegetarian dishes, and like all the best restaurants closes in the middle of the day. Pricey but most certainly worth it. Q Open 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 23:30. A

International Engelbät A-3, Engelbertstr. 7, MZülpicherplatz, tel.

221 24 69 14. A restaurant specialising in crepes, and doing a very good job of it. With a mouth-watering menu in a friendly atmosphere, Engelbät is a relaxing place to re-energise after touring the varied clothing stores in this student area. Large portions, good value and seriously lecker (good). QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. €4-8. AB

www.inyourpocket.com Cologne In Your Pocket

25

Graugans D-2, Kennedy-Ufer 2a, MDeutzer Freiheit, tel. 82 81 17 28. Closed during research, the Hyatt’s gourmet restaurant is a German-Asian fusion affair with great views of the city, pink orchids, splashes of modern art and an extensive wine list featuring the very best of Californian, German, French and Italian wines, many the produce of small vineyards. Award-winning and very posh, watch this space for more details. Q Open 12:00 - 14:00, 18:30 - 22:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

Hornsleth Im Apropos A-2, Mittelstr. 12, MNeumarkt,

tel. 221 27 25 19 20. This very hip restaurant is in the middle of a shop, in a sense. There is a glass roof over the brasserie which makes it very sunny inside. The food is a little pricey but the service is professional and refined. A good place to recover from the strain of visiting the shops along Mittelstrasse. Q Open 10:00-23:00, Mon 10:00-20:00. Closed Sun. ABP

Italian Etrusca A-3, Zülpicher Str. 27, MZülpicherplatz, tel.

221 240 39 00, www.ristorante-etrusca.de. An elegant restaurant with a very Tuscan style, Etrusca offers an intimate atmosphere. There is a very extensive wine selection, and a rolling menu which inspires a creativity from the kitchen. The perfect place to consolidate a new relationship, or to reignite a stale one. Q Open 11:30-15:00, 17:30-23:30. AP

Luciano B-2, Marzellenstr. 68-70, MAppelhofplatz, tel.

13 54 53. A fine restaurant is the perfect balance of food, décor and service, and if it wasn’t for a particularly childish member of staff who clearly learnt his craft from the sobbing schoolboy school of Italian football, Luciano would rate as one of the finest restaurants in the city. What exactly is it with the Italians? Maybe you’ll have better luck. Q Open 12:00 - 15:00, 18:30 - 23:00. A

Neideck A-2, Friesenwall 33, MFriesenplatz, tel. 221 272 43 06, www.restaurant-neideck.de. Serving delicate north Italian food, Neideck is a favourite amongst the locals. The seating is a little cramped but still retains an elegance that suits the quality of the food. They have a gnocchi dish served with lamb strips and olives that will have you coming back all week. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. ABP

June - July 2006

2

restaurants Sansone B-2, Komödienstr. 60, MAppelhofplatz, tel.

12 44 44, www.ristorante-sansone.de. In business since 1969, everything from the knarled door handle to the immaculate waiters is top notch here. Serving a wide selection of Italian dishes with a nouvelle cuisine slant, the food is good but a little expensive. Booking a table at the weekend is highly recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. AB

Vesuvio A-3, Aachener Str. 9, MRudolphplatz, tel. 221

restaurants El Gaucho A-3, Barbarossaplatz 4a, MBarbarossaplatz, tel. 221 24 67 97. Located under the Ambassador Hotel, El Gaucho is your typical Argentinean restaurant with battered pots and pans on the walls. The food is strong, and you can expect lots and lots of meat. Fill that hole in your stomach with their 480gram steak. Q Open 12:00-14:00, 18:00-23:30. Closed Mon, Sat. A

For more go to: www.inyourpocket.com

Maggiano’s C-2, Am Hof 20-26, MHauptbahnhof, tel. 925

Grill Room B-2, Komödienstr. 54, MAppelhofplatz, tel.

25 14 97. This old-fashioned Italian restaurant will satisfy all your desires if you have a hankering for pasta. A perfect evening here starts with the bruschetta and a bottle of Chianti and ends with their pistachio ice cream. Q Open 12:0015:00, 18:30-23:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 18:00-23:30. AP

34 34. Mediocre food that can’t make up its mind whether its Italian or Mexican, Aztec murals, reasonable prices for the location and the occasional grumpy waitress blend together to create a disappointing restaurant that knows neither how to make decent burritos nor how to treat the people who pay their wages. Avoid unless you really do need a Mexican pizza. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. AB

Showbiz

Spanish

Filmdose & Theater in der Filmdose A-3, Zülpicher

Delix C-3, Friesenstr. 72-74, MFriesenplatz, tel. 221 126 02

Str. 39, MZülpicherplatz, tel. 221 23 96 43. For entertaining shows in both German and English, Filmdose is worth checking out. There are comedy acts, musical acts, drag shows and theatre productions in the later evenings on some nights. The portions are large and very tasty, and are complimented by the friendly atmosphere that sweats from the pores of this place. Q Open 09:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00-03:00. AE

00. Delix is both a restaurant and wine store, which works well for the diner because there is a huge selection of Spanish wines on the menu. There is a subtle Spanish flair to the menu as well, with lots of fish. The seating is a little unimaginative, but it is good for large groups. Q Open 12:00-01:00, Sat 12:00-02:00, Sun 10:00-23:00. AP

Steak Chicago Steakhouse C-2, Am Hof 20, tel. 257 92 06.

South American Banderas C-2, Am Hof 26, MDom/Hauptbahnhof, tel. 221

257 92 06. This Mexican restaurant is part of the franchise that owns the adjacent Chicago steakhouse, and the set-up is pretty similar, but with fantastic Mexican style food. Their Argentinean steaks are worth trying, as are their enchiladas. Enjoy the messy eating and be sure to grab some extra serviettes on the way to the table, you may need them. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. AP

A good old-fashioned German family restaurant with comfy leather seating, a refreshing lack of panache, and superb steaks. Featuring televisions scattered everywhere showing a multitude of sporting events, vegetarians will be happy to hear there’s a good salad bar and some fine garlic bread. Those with children in tow will also be more than delighted to know that free crayons and paper are whisked to your table without you even having to ask. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. AT

Beer or Culture?

139 16 20, www.steakhouse-the-grillroom.com. A small, classy steak restaurant with lots of Tiffany lamps, allegedly serving the best Argentinean beef in the city cooked on an open charcoal grill. Frequented by business professionals and the Cologne A-list, it’s pricey but worth it. Also a great selection of South American and other wines to compliment the meat. Vegetarians look elsewhere. Q Open 11:30 - 15:00, 18:00 - 22:30. A

Thai Mai Thai C-2, Heumarkt 71, MHeumarkt, tel. 25 63

14. Taking full advantage of its prime tourist location, Mai Thai is a strange mix of ostentatious décor and staff who were seemingly trained in the Soviet Union. If you’ve always fancied eating things with names like Ghai Phad Pag and Tod Mun Gung and staring at kitsch paintings of traditional Thai villages whilst waitresses stare at you like you just passed wind, then look no further. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. A

Turkish Bosporus B-1, Weidengasse 36, MHansaring, tel. 221

12 52 65, www.bosporus.de. With the reputation as being the best Turkish restaurant in Cologne, Bosporus has won all the available awards. One bite of their lamb-steak with walnut sauce and you will be converted too. The restaurant has been going for 25 years and in that time has developed a strong following, so it is wise to book. Q ABP

Vegetarian Babylon A-3, Hohenstaufenring 14, MZülpicherplatz,

tel. 221 233 93 33. This vegetarian restaurant is in a central location and offers a wide variety of dishes. The ambience is a little tired though, and the décor is nothing much - almost like a caféteria. There is no smoking during the day, so head here for clean lungs and guilt-free food. Q AG

Govindam A-3, Roonstr. 3, MZülpicherplatz, tel. 221 492 89 16, www.govindam.net. Usually a vegetarian has about two choices on an average menu. At Govindam your problem is that there is too much to choose from, and it’s all fantastic. While the seating and styling are very plain and functional, the food more than makes up for it. The mango lassi is divine. Q Open 12:00-22:00. Closed Sun. A

In Prague, you don’t have to choose. We have it all. And we have it all in Prague In Your Pocket. Keep it where it belongs.

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We don’t know whether Kölsch beer was created to compliment Kölsch cuisine, or whether it was the other way around, but there is no better marriage between food and beer. There are a few dishes that are customary, such as Haemmche, boiled pig knuckle, Rievkochen, potato fritters with apple sauce and Kölsch black pudding, which is nicknamed Kölsch caviar. Halve Hahn sounds like half a chicken, but is instead a roll of bread with Dutch cheese, onions and mustard. The tastes are strong and the portions are large, so wear the pants with the elastic waist.

Decoding the menu Fleisch Auflauf Braten Bratwurst Brust Eintopf Eisbein Ente Gans Hackbraten Haxe Hühnchen Kalb Kaninchen Kohlrouladen Küken Lamm Leberkäse Pute Reh Rind Rippchen Rouladen Schenkel, Schlegel, Keule Schnitzel Schwein Steak Weißwurst Wild Wildschwein

Meat casserole roast sausage breast stew knuckle of pork duck goose meatloaf knuckle chicken calf young rabbit cabbage-stuffed beef puisson lamb meatloaf turkey deer beef loin ribs thinly sliced beef leg veal, pork cutlet pork steak veal sausage venison wild boar

Fisch Forelle Hering Kabeljau Lachs Scholle

Fish trout herring codfish salmon plaice

Beilagen Auberginen Blumenkohl, Karfiol Bohnen Bratkartoffeln Brokkoli Brötchen Erbsen Gurke Karotten, Möhren Kartoffeln, Erdäpfel Knödel Knoblauch Nudeln Paprika Pfannkuchen Petersilie Pfeffer Pilze Pommes Frites Salz Sauerkraut Senf Spargel Spätzle Speck Spinat Zucker Zwiebeln

Side dishes aubergines cauliflower beans roast potatoes broccoli bread roll peas cucumber carrots potatoes dumplings garlic pasta pepper pancakes parsley pepper mushrooms french fries, potato chips salt sauerkraut mustard asparagus egg noodles bacon spinach sugar onion

Desserts Apfelstrudel Berliner/ Krapfen/ Kreppel Bethmännchen Bienenstich Lebkuchen/Printen Mousse Rote Grütze

Desserts apple pie doughnut almond paste cookies cake ginger bread mousse red fruit jelly

June - July 2006

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nightliFe

nightliFe Harry’s New York Bar C-3, Pipinstr. 1, MHeumarkt, tel.

Bars Alter Watersaal C-2, Johannistr. 11, MHauptbahnhof,

tel. 912 88 50, www.wartesaal.de. Located underneath the Hauptbahnhof inside the old first- and second-class waiting rooms, this is a deliciously ornate and classy affair with lots of wood panelling, original Art Deco lamps and free copies of the German edition of the FT. Half posh restaurant, half relaxed bar, there’s something quite magical about this place, despite it being somewhat snobby and the fact that a glass of mineral water will set you back €4. A good spot for a drink before nipping next door to their equally enjoyable club. Check the website for more details. QOpen 17:00 - 01:00.

Bastard Café & Bar A-2, Friesenwall 29, MFriesen-

platz, tel. 221 420 77 77, www.bastard-bar.de. This little gem sprawls out into the courtyard of a quiet building. There is a nice terrace upstairs; the perfect place to taste their Long Island Ice Tea which is pretty subtle. They also serve light food, so you can keep up your vitamin intake. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri 10:00 - 03:00, Sat 11:00 - 03:00, Sun 11:00 - 01:00.

Biermuseum C-2, Buttermarkt 39, MHeumarkt, tel. 257 78 02. Featuring dancing barmaids and over 50 beers, if all museums had this attitude it would certainly be worth looking into becoming an academic. Extremely loud and packed most evenings, find two floors of tipsy over-30s Germans misbehaving impeccably in something not unlike a British pub. Be sure to put this one on your Cologne pub-crawl list. QOpen 14:00 - 03:00.

Blauer Engel A-2, Friesenwall 82, MFriesenplatz, tel.

221 280 64 33, www.blauer-engel-koeln.de. There is a mildly intimidating atmosphere in the front of this place, with all eyes trained on you as you enter, but the people are quite friendly inside. If you want to put theperfect finishing touch on a rampageous night out then hit the “Pleasure & Pain” tattoo parlour next door and pick out a design. QOpen 20:00 - 05:00, Sun 20:00 - 03:00.

28 06 12 10. Inviting rows of backlit bottles, 60s-style yellow seating, cute red lamps and a grand piano help bring a modicum of sophistication to the Hotel Intercontinental’s in-house cocktail joint. Harry’s to those in the know is a global cocktail phenomenon with history, and if you can afford to drink here and are lucky enough to miss the cabaret, this is quite a splendid little spot. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 03:00.

Hemingway A-2, Friesenstr. 43, MFriesenplatz, tel.

221 257 11 21, www.hemingway-cologne.de. This large and stylish tropical cocktail bar is a good place to sip White Russians and contemplate the days past. There is a large area downstairs, and they play some good music on occasion. There are many cocktail bars lining the street, so if the vibe is a little slothful here you can walk next door in search of greener pastures. QOpen 20:00 - 01:00, Sat 20:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun.

Ice Bar B-2, Marzellenstr. 13-17, MAppelhofplatz, tel.

13 07 10. The idea is a simple one. Take a workaday hotel bar and give it a gimmick, this one coming in the guise of a frozen bar top. Fun and frivolous, the drink of the day is vodka, of which they stock somewhere in the region of 120 different types from all over the world. And judging by the pricelist you’d do well to drink lots of it as the bill can hurt like hell. QOpen 17:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 05:00.

Pacific Bar A-3, Kyffhaeuserstr. 17, MBarbarossaplatz,

tel. 221 923 11 60, www.pacificbar.de. The Pacific Bar suits a refined palate, but it would take serious conviction to attempt to sample each of their 140 varieties of whiskey. If whiskey is not your thing then you should be able to find something on the cocktail menu that satisfies; they serve 265 different types. The staff are all clothed in spiffy vests. QOpen 20:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun.

Papa Joe’s Biersalon C-2, Alter Markt 50-52, MHeu-

tel. 221 13 33 78. This has one of the more bizarre motifs in town, and has found good business in it. It was once a laundromat, and most of the washing machines have been used as decoration. It is one of the trendiest places to be found hanging out, and can get busy on weekends. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00.

markt, tel. 258 21 32, www.papajoes.de. Reminiscent of a 19th-century London gin house, Papa Joe’s is one of the loveliest and liveliest bars in the city. Despite its propensity to hang anything old and funny on the walls, this is far from being a clinical tourist trap. Hard to differentiate between the staff and the clients, there’s always plenty of ridiculous accordion music to keep the beer flowing, or, if you’re lucky, you may walk into one of their live ballroom evenings or a bawdy recital of erotic poetry. Highly recommended. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00.

Cubana Bar A-3, Luxemburger Str. 1, MBarbarossa-

Piano Bar Maritim C-3, Heumarkt 20, MHeumarkt,

Café Waschsalon A-2, Ehrenstr. 77, MRudolphplatz,

platz. Serving up cocktails and Che Guevara pictures, the Cubana Bar is for those who either love one or the other. It is easily spotted from the U-Bahn station, and has become a meeting place for nights on the town. In summer there are outside seats; a perfect place to cook up the next revolution.

Hammond Bar B-4, Metzer Str. 25, MChlodwigplatz,

tel. 0178 635 57 61, www.hammondbar.de. This bar brings a little life to an otherwise quiet neighbourhood. This means that you will mostly find locals too lazy to travel to a more central part of town. The bar still has its charm though, and Thursday night is sixties soul night which of course contains the funky pulsating of the Hammond organ. QOpen 20:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon.

Cologne phone code: (+49)(0) 221 Cologne In Your Pocket

www.inyourpocket.com

BELFAST

tel. 202 78 69. A fabulously over the top, retro-looking hotel bar with lots of mirrors, dapper barmen and a white grand piano, this is a great place to tip back expensive cocktails with your tongue firmly in your cheek. Once again the bar bill can be justified by filling your pockets with bar nibbles before you leave. Live music every night except Sundays from 22:30. QOpen 19:00 - 03:00. E

Rheinterrassen D-1, Rheinparkweg 1, MKölnMesse

Osthallen, tel. 880 95 31. You can usually judge how pretentious a bar is by the number of energy drinks on the menu. Rheinterrassen has nine. Decorated with lots of modernist orange furniture and a DJ station straight out of Barbarella, this place takes superficiality to new heights. Drinks include the usual array of stupid-sounding cocktails, they have gourmet cigars, and even the view of the Dom across the river (the real reason to come here) is ruined by the great blue blob of the Musical Dom. Bursting with nouveau riche, a Russian gangster would think twice about drinking here. QOpen 18:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00.

Dreams can come true

Football mural, East Belfast.

Rick’s Café Casablanca B-2, Glockengasse 64-66,

MNeumarkt, tel. 280 66 16. The strenuous efforts made to associate the decoration inside what is essentially a hotel bar with the Bogart classic failed miserably, but Casablanca is a bit of a hit all the same. Regular nightly entertainment includes Country & Western, piano recitals and just plain dancing. DJs invade on Saturday nights, and if it’s not working for you here there are plenty of other good spots in the area. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.

Sir Peter Ustinov’s Bar International C-2, Domkloster 2a, MHauptbahnhof, tel. 202 43 75, www.ustinovs.de. Literally in the shadow of the Dom and tucked inside the Dom Hotel in which Mr Ustinov used to stay, SPUBI is a small cocktail bar with big prices (made more bearable if you work your way along the bar, eating the free snacks as you go), serving sours and non-alcoholic cocktails to a mix of locals and hotel guests to the dulcet tones of yet another mediocre pianist. Almost club-like, the summer months see the whole place empty into the square outside, creating one of the finest places to sit and get smashed in the entire city. QOpen 09:00 - 03:00.

Stiefel A-3, Zülpicher Str. 18, MZülpicherplatz, tel.

221 21 16 36. A bar that always elicits a different emotion in each person who visits it. Graffiti on the walls, loud rock music and a young atmosphere; Stiefel sits in a class of its own. One man’s trash is another man’s treasure, and this place is definitely a trashy treasure that many find residing in a perfect niche. QOpen 20:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 03:00. Closed Sun.

Theater im Bauturm A-2/3, Aachener Str. 24, MRu-

dolphplatz, tel. 221 52 42 42. This small and intimate theatre has mainly German-language productions, so the best reason for us foreigners to go here is the very cool bar/café at the front which is constantly packed with hipsters.

Ubierschänke C-4, Ubierring 25, MUbierring. Always full

with partying people, flashy lights, pointless furnishings and traces of Koelsch charm. The clientele are mostly thirty and over, and this bar has an old style attraction to it.

Underground Vogelsanger Str. 200, MK-Ehrenfeld, tel.

221 54 35 87, www.underground-cologne.de. Notoriously hard to please, Britpop fans can find satisfaction here. Apart from the pub itself there is a nice beer garden, so if the music gets too loud for you there is always a place to retreat. The musical themes change each night, and there are often parties of various motifs each week.

Pubs Corkonian C-2, Alter Markt 51, MHeumarkt, tel. 221

257 69 31, www.the-corkonian-irish-pub.sportkneipe. de. An Irish pub that offers a genuine atmosphere. Come here to find Irish beer, Irish patrons and soccer on a big Irish TV. A little pricey, but probably still not as expensive as in Ireland. A good place to meet, as it is in a central location and has a name that is hard to miss. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00.

Flanagan’s C-2, Alter Markt 36-42, MHeumarkt, tel.

221 257 06 74, www.flanagans-cologne.de. Down the stairs and into Flanagan’s. While you can find many similarities between the many Irish bars in town, this one has its own character. With relatively cheap beer, an abundance of ladies and gents and loud music it has won many hearts. QOpen 17:00 - 03:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 03:00.

www.inyourpocket.com June - July 2006

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nightliFe Jamesons Friesenstr. 30-40, MFriesenplatz/912 33 23,

www.jamesonpubs.com. There is one thing an Irish bar can’t get enough of; wood. If this place ever caught fire they would have to siphon off the Rhein to put it out. There is a lot of room inside, and it can get very loud but that is half the point of an Irish bar. They have an unrivalled bottle collection on the walls. Karaoke on Sundays at 21:00 – enjoy or avoid. QOpen 12:00 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 11:00 - 01:00.

Schmelztiegel A-4, Luxemburger Str. 34, MBarbarossa-

platz, tel. 221 24 01 11, www.schmelztiegel.de. There is a nice London pub atmosphere here, although the disco lights are ironically anachronistic. The façade facing the street is striking, and adds to the mood of the pub. The only thing it has going against it is that sometimes the volume of the music far outweighs the quality of it. QOpen 19:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 03:00.

Shamrock C-4, Alteburger Str. 40, MUbierring, tel. 932 84 64, www.shamrockirishpubs.de. This tiny Irish bar has become a favourite amongst a handful of local German folk who enjoy the cosy ambience. There is a lonely-looking electronic darts board in there that makes you want to play purely out of sympathy. The music is a subjective matter, and will either make you reminisce or remonstrate.

Beer gardens Biergarten Volksgarten B-4, Volksgartenstr. 27, MEifel-

platz, tel. 221 38 26 26. As far as beer gardens go this is one of the more scenic, sitting in the small lake (or big pond?) in the middle of the Volksgarten park. The park itself is not too well lit after dark, so late-leavers can often be found stumbling into trees and wandering into the lake. A perfect place to sit back and enjoy the setting sun while enjoying a few quiet beers.

Live music Blue Note A-2, Brüsseler Str. 96, MWestbahnhof, tel. 01798 49 04 49. There is generally a lot to enjoy at the Blue Note. They often have live bands playing, as well as resident and guest dj’s. There is a bar on both

nightliFe floors, ser ving a wide variety of obscure beers. The low ceilings make it feel a bit claustrophobic when full. Q Open 22:30 - 03:00, Tue, Wed 22:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon, Sun.

Live Music Hall Lichtstr. 30, Ehrenfeld, tel. 221

95 42 99 10, www.livemusichall.de. You can watch many good live acts at this concert hall, and there is lot of space to move around to, so there is no need to fear getting constantly elbowed by jostling groovers. Check out the schedule of bands at their website. They book gigs from a range of different styles, so you can generally find something of interest.

Palladium Schanzenstr. 40, tel. 221 967 90, www.

palladium-koeln.de. This performance venue is bit far out, but they regularly have big bands out there, and lots of space to jump around.

Prime Club A-4, Luxemburger Str. 40, MDasselstr,

tel. 221 92 44 60, www.primeclub.de. This is a great place to catch some good gigs. Friday nights is indie night, and there is no better place to indulge your Britpop desires. There is quite a large dance area, and the beer is quite cheap (to compete with the Rose Club across the street), although sometimes you can feel old amongst the teeny-boppers.

Jazz clubs Papa Joe’s Jazzlokal C-2, Buttermarkt 37, MHeu-

markt, tel. 257 79 31, www.papajoes.de. Find the barmaid behind the dangling business cards and foreign money, locate a place to sit on one of the strange benches facing away from the stage, and away you go. A living legend, Papa Joe’s Jazzlokal has live jazz every night from traditional to slightly more modern jazz, and is packed regularly with a mix of aficionados from ageing jazzheads to the occasional passing punk. Free to get in, the beer is a bit expensive, but the trip is always worth the effort. There’s nothing quite like it. QOpen 19:00 - 01:00.

Stadtgarten A-2, Venloer Str. 40, MHans Böckler

Platz, tel. 221 952 99 40. This location is a Mecca for jazz enthusiasts, and in any one week you can find at least one big name playing here. Located in the Stadtgarten park, there’s a restaurant, pub and beer garden as well, of which the latter is very popular in the summer months, and is one of the best places to have a drink in the evenings. Check the website to see which gigs are coming through.

Clubs

platz, tel. 139 33 83, www.dollhouse-cologne.de. This erotic club has that “edge of town” feeling, at the end of Hohenzollernring street. Inside it’s quite civilised, and the main dance platform almost has a theatre-like atmosphere. Friday night is ladies’ night, but they generally cater to all tastes. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 05:00.

Pascha Hornstrasse 2, MK-Ehrenfeld, tel. 221 17

Gebäude 9 E-1, Mülheimer Str. 127-129, MKöln

Purple Club A-4, Luxemburger Str. 60, MEifelwall.

Haifisch Club C-4, Im Ferklum 24-26, MChlodwigplatz,

Rose Club A-4, Luxemburger Str. 37, MEifelwall, tel.

tel. 221 160 86 20, www.club-diamonds.de. If you want to go back in time and visit the late eighties, then this is the place for you. Huge disco balls, exotic couches and wildly coloured lighting; it looks like a movie scene set in a coke den. The crowd seems to be divided into the young and the young at heart. Q Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun-Thu. Messe, tel. 221 81 46 37, www.gebaeude9.de. From the outside “Building 9” looks like a place where you are going to get mugged, but this old warehouse is actually a great club to visit. There are often good bands playing there, and the beer is quite cheap. There are also theatre productions and film exhibitions on occasion, so it is always worth checking out the schedule. tel. 0176 22 89 30 90. When you get sick of drinking bland drinks, pay a visit to the ‘Shark’ cocktail bar. Set in a cellar, the atmosphere is laid back and friendly. The star of the show is of course the cocktails so be sure to make an effort to order something interesting.

Kauri Club C-2, Auf dem Rothenberg 11, MHeumarkt,

tel. 257 79 22. This small club is good for R&B and soul music, and is a favourite amongst Cologne’s African community. The drinks are quite expensive, like many clubs in the Altstadt. The crowd is mostly older than the average club, attracted by the mellow atmosphere.

90 61 00, www.pascha.de. This claims to the biggest bordello in Europe, part of a chain that incredibly offers a money-back guarantee. There are seven storeys, each containing up to fifteen rooms. Word has it that Eminem made a bee-line for Pascha when he was in town. Q Open 24hrs.

There is actually quite a good setup here, even though it sometimes is not as busy as other clubs. Their downfall is being on the wrong side of the railway line, which seems to form a mental barrier for some clubbers. This is too bad, because the Purple Club has a good atmosphere, a little more relaxed and less preppy. QOpen 22:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Sun. 240 82 66. On Wednesday nights the Rose Club gives you what you need: funk. If you want to throw your back out dancing all night then this is the place to be. There are also indie and alternative nights, so just drop by and see what is happening. The crowd can seem a little young at times. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Sun.

Stardust A-2, Maastrichter Str. 6-8, MFriesenplatz, tel. 280 68 03, www.stardust-koeln.de. Stardust has a fun atmosphere inside and is not the sleaze pit it looks to be from the outside. The professional air about the club attracts many German sport stars to unwind here, Oliver Khan and Mark Heller to name a few. QOpen 21:00 - 05:00, Sun 21:00 - 03:00. Admission €10.

24 26 75. If most of your clothes are black and you own a lot of leather products then the chances are that this is your kind of place. A goth club that looks a little ratty from the outside, this is just how they like it. The club itself looks a little out of place amongst the sedate residential buildings and the park next door. QOpen 21:00 - 01:00, Sat 20:00 - 03:00, Sun 20:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon.

Tsunami Club C-4, Im Ferkulum 9, MChlodwigplatz, tel.

Nachtflug A-2, Hohenzollernring 89-93, MFriesenplatz,

Gloria A-2, Apostelnstr. 11, MNeumarkt, tel. 660 63

tel. 510 22 29, www.nachtflug.com. Even though this night club has many things going for it, sometimes it feels a little sedate. It has a very spacious dance area and comfy couches, but whether it is worth queuing up outside for up to an hour is debatable. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00.

Pier 11 C-2, Auf dem Rothenberg 11, MHeumarkt,

Cologne In Your Pocket

Dollhouse A-2, Hohenzollernring 92, MFriesen-

Diamonds A-2, Hohenzollernring 90, MFriesenplatz,

Lalic A-3, Rathenauplatz 6, MZülpicherplatz, tel. 221

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Adult entertainment

tel. 01762 432 92 40. Ignore the small bar as you enter and dive down the stairs into a dark cavern of delight. Decorated with models of sailing ships and complete with a pole for exotic dancing, a buxom barmaid churns out booze to the sounds of 70s and 80s music. A big hit with the locals, and a great place to dance yourself silly, safely hidden away from the tourists bumbling about in the tiny alleyways upstairs. QOpen 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Thu, Sun.

801 63 34. This unhappily-named club is relatively small and there can sometimes be a line outside which should not be mistaken as a reflection of the popularity of the place, but rather the limited capacity. Inside, it’s often hot and cramped, with pricey drinks.

Gay 13, www.gloria-theater.com. Gloria has many faces, and each visit is different. The themes of each night are constantly changing, and they often have some big acts passing through their doors. Some nights require tickets and others are free, depending on the schedule. Gloria attracts a mixed crowd, and is very popular in the gay and lesbian scene.

Timp C-3, Heumarkt 25, MHeumarkt, tel. 258 14 09,

www.timp.de. Timp is a hotel bar full of beguiling and decidedly odd characters, and is a recommended location for visiting gays, as gays are what you’ll find in droves here. The real treat though comes when the legendary transvestite cabaret begins at around 01:00. It’s cheap and colourful and fun, and has been going since many of the wrinkly old types propping up the bar were still at school. They’ve got a hotel too, so the possibilities here are endless. QOpen 20:30 - 05:00.

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What to see

What to see Tourist information Cologne Tourist Board B-2, Unter Fettenhennen

19, tel. 304 00, fax 304 10, [email protected], www.koelntourismus.de. Opposite the main doors of the cathedral, the excellent tourist office hands out maps, advice and books hotel rooms, tours and city walks. Also at Cologne-Bonn Airport. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.

Philharmonie C-2, Bischofsgartenstr. 1, MHauptbahn-

The real Eau de Cologne

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Places of interest 4711-Haus B-2, Glockengasse 4711, MNeumarkt,

tel. 925 04 50, www.4711.com. On 8 October 1792 the young merchant Wilhelm Mülhens married his sweetheart. As a wedding present a Carthusian monk gave the couple a simple gift in the form of a recipe for the production of a miracle water, the perfume we now know as Eau de Cologne. Mülhens built a factory for producing the perfume, which is believed to have magical healing qualities and that was originally swallowed as well as applied externally, on Cologne’s Glockengasse. In 1796 during the French occupation of Cologne the city commander General Daurier ordered that all addresses in the city were to be changed. Mülhens’ factory got the number 4711, and thanks to some clever early marketing his perfume became a world leader. The building now houses a 4711 shop and museum. High up on the wall overlooking the opera is an elaborate clock with models of French soldiers and horses that plays the Marseillaise on the hour from 09:00 to 19:00. For more extensive information about Cologne’s most famous product, have a look at the 4711 website. Q Open 09:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:30 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

hof, tel. 20 40 80, www.koelnmusik.de. On September 14, 1986 the Gürzenich Orchestra Cologne gave a performance of Mahler’s 8th Symphony at the grand opening of this impressive hall. Twenty years on and the Philharmonie, which is home to both the Gürzenich Orchestra Cologne and the WDR Symphony Orchestra Cologne continues to give almost daily performances of everything from baroque to chamber to jazz to serialism. Designed to mimic an ancient amphitheatre the Philharmonie also houses a huge organ, but what you won’t find in their official marketing material is the fabulous blunder made during construction. The Philharmonie’s roof is built into the surrounding area and accordingly the public can walk on it. The trouble is, when people walk on it their footsteps can be heard inside the auditorium. Thus during every performance a small group of Philharmonie employees have to hang around the roof area stopping people from crossing it. The city, who own the building, originally planned to cover the roof with a soundproofing material but have been reluctant to part with their money, and so the rather surreal-looking spectacle of men chasing quite-often oblivious people around what looks to be an ordinary courtyard continues.

pellhofplatz, tel. 22 00. Originally a hotel, the headquarters of Germany’s most popular television station is well worth a mention. The former lobby still includes an extremely rare paternoster (look it up) and much of the interior features original art including some wonderful stained glass and Cubist art. There are two working music and drama theatres too, both of which are open to the public. Guided tours in English are also available.

Museums Chocolate Museum (Imhoff-Stollwerck Museum)

C-3, Rheinauhafen 1a, MHeumarkt, tel. 22 19 31 88 80, www.schokoladenmuseum.de. Although Willy Wonka’s fat unfortunate friend Augustus Gloop was from nearby Düsseldorf, chocolate lovers will find their favourite chocolate museum (or mmmuseum as they call it) here in Cologne’s Rheinhafen. Learn about 300 years of chocolate culture and production, drink from the chocolate fountain and watch the oompaloompas go about their business. QOpen 10:00 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. 1-3, MAppellhofplatz, tel. 22 12 57 89. You can satisfy all your questions about Cologne here, and find some interesting titbits of local lore. There are relics from the Middle Ages, photographs from WWII and an exhibit on the damage the city sustained during the war. There is not too much post-war information, however. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Tue 10:00 - 20:00. Admission €4.70.

EL-DE Haus Appellhofplatz 23-25, tel. 22 12 63 31, www. nsdok.de. The city’s former Gestapo HQ has been transformed into a museum tracing the roots and progress of National Socialism in Cologne from the foundation of the National Socialist German Workers Party in 1921 through to the liberation of the city by US troops on March 6, 1945. The former cells in the basement now form the main part of the exhibition, with the rest of the building given over to archives and research. One of the best-preserved prisons of its kind in the country, a visit here is a necessary part of any itinerary to the city. QOpen 10:00 16:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.

is an old part of the town’s fortifications located along the Rhein with a beautiful view of the river. There is a lot of real estate development along this street, and the old fort now looks very much out of place. While you get a sense of how the tower used to look, the refurbishment of it seems to have taken the soul out of it. Today it is used to house the Feminist Museum.

Farina Haus (Fragrance Museum) C-2, Obenm-

Opera B-2, Offenbachplatz, MNeumarkt, tel. 22 12 84

Cologne In Your Pocket

Westdeutscher Rundfunk B-2, Appellhofplatz 1, MAp-

City Museum (Stadtmuseum) B-2, Zeughausstr.

Bayenturm C-4, Rheinauhalbinsel, MUbierring. This

00. Wilhelm Riphahn’s 1957 lump of a modernist building is highly acclaimed both inside and out. The 1,300-seat auditorium puts on a good programme of classical and modern opera as well as dance from all over the world.

Rathaus C-2, Rathausplatz, MHeumarkt, tel. 22 10. Germany’s oldest Rathaus (town hall) was first mentioned some time between 1135 and 1152. The current building dates from the 14th century, with additions made over the centuries. The original 61m Gothic tower dates from 1414 and the impressive loggia, the main entrance, was added in 1573. WWII saw most of the building destroyed with only the loggia surviving. Rebuilding began at the end of the war, and slowly the Rathaus was restored to its former glory, a task that took until 1995 to complete. The oldest preserved part of the building is the Hansesaal, which dates from around 1330. The Hansesaal gets its name from a gathering in the room in 1367 by members of the Hanseatic League who decided to wage war against King Waldemar of Denmark. The tracery and decorative figures on the north and south face of the wooden vaulted hall are one of the impressive achievements of the secular late Gothic period. Guided tours are available and should be arranged in advance.

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arspforten 21, MHeumarkt, tel. 399 89 94, www. farina1709.com. This is the birthplace of Eau de Cologne (literally: Cologne water), an important part of the history of the city. The museum focuses on the history of the Farina family, and is quite interesting. It’s very popular and can get a little crowded but the audio guide keeps you entertained with nuggets of information. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00.

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What to see

What to see Schnütgen Museum B-3, Caecilien Str. 29, MNeumarkt, tel. 22 12 23 10, www.museenkoeln.de. This museum is housed inside an old church, and is a treasure-house of sculptures, artefacts and relics from medieval times. The collection was donated to the city of Cologne in 1906 by Domherr Alexander Schnütgen, and 2006 is their century anniversary. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Sport & Olympia Museum Rheinauhafen 1, MHeu-

markt, tel. 33 60 90, www.sportmuseum.info. This museum is a sports fan’s dream: signed balls, bats, boots and boats; this place is wall to wall sports memorabilia. There is a large section on football, and there are sometimes talks given by famous sporting stars, so if you are lucky you can get your picture taken with Steffi Graf or Oliver Khan. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission €5/2.50.

Wallraf-Richartz Museum C-2, Martinstr. 39, MHeu-

markt, tel. 211 19, www.museenkoeln/wrm. Three floors of great art from the 13th century through to the Impressionists, including works by Rubens, Rembrandt, Manet and Munch. As well as showcasing the medieval paintings of local artists the museum traces the history of panel painting in the city from 1300 to 1550. The well designed building dates from 2001 and is situated in the area where the painters and artists of Cologne congregated during the Middle Ages. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Tue 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.

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Museum Ludwig C-2, Bischofsgartenstr. 1, MHaupt-

bahnhof, tel. 22 12 61 65, www.museum-ludwig.de. Devoted to modern art from the beginning of the 20th century onwards, the vast and airy Ludwig Museum is most famous for its Pop Art collection, the largest outside the United States. Other treats include early 20th-century Russian and Soviet art and a few pieces by Picasso. The museum also puts of temporary exhibitions from the great and the good including at the time of writing a superb Dali retrospective. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.

Pratorium C-2, Kleine Budengasse, MHeumarkt, tel.

223 94. This half hidden museum often gets overlookedand that’s a shame, because it houses some of the more striking and best-preserved remnants of Cologne’s Roman period. Tour the underground archaeological excavations that have exposed the structures of the Roman governor’s offices, a fascinating trip back through time. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.

Rautenstrauch-Jöst Museum C-4, Ubierring 45, MUbierring, tel. 221 336 94 13, www.rjm.museenkoeln.de. Sedate and sparse, this museum is for enthusiasts of Asiatic religion and traditional art and crafts. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.

Römisch-Germanisches Museum C-2, Roncalliplatz

4, MHauptbahnhof, tel. 22 12 23 04. Originally part of the Roman and Germanic department of the Wallraf-Richartz Museum, this intriguing museum was built in 1974 on the walls of a Roman villa unearthed during WWII. Dedicated to life in the area under Roman occupation, among the usual pots, weapons, statues and other archaeological detritus of note is the extraordinary Dionysus mosaic and some wonderful examples of ancient, crude Roman glassware. One of Germany’s most popular museums, the curators have been considerate enough to label everything in English and French as well as German. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.

Cologne In Your Pocket

Dom (Cathedral) C-2, Am Dom, MDom/Hauptbahnhof.

The people of Cologne take great pride in the Dom, and there is no doubt that it forms a part of their psyche. Work on the great Gothic cathedral first started in 1248, and it was not fully completed until 1880. The relics of the Three Kings, or Magi, are on display in the cathedral, as are the cathedral’s art and treasure collection. It’s possible to climb the lofty spires of the Cathedral (€4/2), one of which stands at 157 meters in height. There are guided tours in English twice daily (once Sunday) at 10:30 and 14:30. QOpen 07:00 - 19:30.

St. Pantaleon B-3, Am Pantaleonsberg 6, MPoststr.

Originally built as an abbey in 957 in commemoration of the Greek martyr Pantaleon, this church is very impressive in many different ways. Hidden amongst apartment blocks, it is easy to pass by without noticing it. The church was damaged in WWII, and has been refurbished since. The interior is very modest, and the stark walls coupled with the everpresent smell of incense gives it an atmosphere of solemn contemplation.

St. Severin C-4, Severinskirchplatz, MChlodwigplatz.

Built on an old Roman graveyard, Saint Severin’s is the oldest church in Cologne. In around 400AD there existed a small church on the site, and in the 10th century work begain on what is today St Severins. There are excavations underneath the church, and it is sometimes possible to go on guided tours of the Romanesque crypts that remain in good condition below the structure.

Statues Reiterdenkmal C-2, Heumarkt 25, MHeumarkt. Gustav

Blaeser’s 1876 statue built to honour King Friedrich Wilhelm III enraged the court circles of the time as a mounted statue was deemed inappropriate and simply not kingly enough. Still, unveiled it was and there it stayed until it was blown to pieces during WWII. The current beast is a copy, created by Raimund Kittl using fragments of the original.

Parks & Gardens Flora & Botanical Gardens Amsterdamer Str. 34, MZoo/Flora, tel. 76 43 35. Serene, stately, well-designed and well cared for, this is one of the best botanical gardens in the region. There are separate areas for varying species of plant and tree, and each area is a microcosm of flora. Entrance to the gardens is free, though there is a small entrance fee for the greenhouses (€2-4).

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Lindenthaler Tierpark Lindenthal, MDürenerstr.,

www.lindenthaler-tierpark.de. This is a little animal park built in the grounds of the Lindenthaler park. The animals are mostly goats and deer, but the kids can feed them and it is a nice quiet area to relax in. There is no entrance fee, and no staff really either. Just you and the goats.

Rheinpark D-1,. This park has one of the best views

in Cologne, and has lots of space for lazing on the grass. Lying on the Deutz side of the Rhein, it is a great place for children, and there is a mini-train making slow trips around the park each fifteen minutes. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00.

Rhine Cable Car (Kölner Seilbahn) D-1, Rheiler Str.

180, MZoo/Flors, tel. 221 547 33 33. One of the best views of Cologne has to be from the cable car that crosses the Rhein from RheinPark to Riehl. If you like planning your day, you can start off by wandering through the Rheinpark, catch the cable car across the river, spend a lazy day at the zoo and finish it off with watching the sunset at the botanical gardens. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Return tickets €5.50/3.

Skulpturenpark Koeln Riehlerstr., MZoo/Flora, tel. 860 77 31. Next to the zoo and the botanical gardens lies a tranquil park that is devoted to different sculptures by artists from all over the world. There are some that are mysterious, some that are quite beautiful and some that are downright annoying. Entrance is free, but the park itself is not overwhelmingly large. QOpen 10:30 - 18:00.

Stadtgarten Venloer Str. 40, MBahnhof West. The Stadtgarten is well known for the jazz concerts that are regularly held here, but the park itself is a nice place to relax. It is just inside the ring that is formed by the railway. Just over the tracks there is another ring of parkland that forms a semi-circle around the inner city, and it’s not uncommon to see families of wild rabbits frolicking in the grass.

Gross St Martin Kirche C-2, An Gross St Martin, MHeumarkt. When looking at the skyline of Cologne you can’t help but notice the four spires of this church, yet it remains one of the least visited. The massive Romanesque church was consecrated in 1172, and was partially destroyed in WWII, but reconstructed in 1963. The interior is very sparse and plain, and the bare walls look ominous.

St Aposteln A-2/3, Apostelnkloster 10, MNeumarkt.

Consecrated in honour of the Apostles, this church was badly damaged in WWII. It has obviously since been refurbished, and today offers a peaceful sanctuary. There is a huge modern pipe organ at the back, that must really have some volume at full blast. Another feature of the church is the suspended sculpture that hangs down over the altar area.

St. Gereon B-2, Gereonshof 4, MChristophstr./Me-

diaPark. The interior of this large Romanesque church is a little intimidating, but the stonework is really quite impressive, and the church has some original 11th century mosaics in the crypt that survived the Second World War. Concerts of classical pieces are held each week, worh visiting for the good acoustics.

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daytrips

What to see River cruises KD River Cruises C-2, Frankenwerft 35, MHeumarkt,

tel. 208 83 18, www.k-d.com. Ferrying people up and down the Rhine for 180 years, and with a client list that includes the current Pope, KD offer a fantastic way of getting to know the region by water. Short and long trips are available as well as private hire for groups and parties.

Around town Rodenkirchen Riviera Rodenkirchen. With a beautiful

view of the Rhein this stretch of bank in Rodenkirchen is a casual and unpretentious place. A little outside of the city centre, Rodenkirchen lies along the bank of the Rhein towards Bonn. Rodenkirchen means “Rower’s Churches” and was so named for the churches that the rowers frequented. Enjoy a refreshment in one of the beer gardens that line the area.

Schloss Augustusburg Schlossstr. 6, Brühl, MBrühl,

tel. 223 24 40 00, www.schlossbruehl.de. This well-restored 18th century Rococo castle is about ten minutes by train from Cologne, and can provide a decent day’s worth of things to see and do. As well as tours of the interior of the castle, there are beautiful Baroque-era garden grounds to wander through, and there is a hunting lodge about a kilometre away along a serene walk through the forest. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.

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Volksgarten A/B-4, Volksgartenstr., MEifelplatz.

A beautiful park filled with parents, children and couples enjoying the sun. Read a book, play frisbee or sleep off the excesses of the previous night’s debauchery in this serene setting. There is a small lake in the centre which is home to many hungry ducks and geese.

As if Cologne didn’t have enough to offer, there are myriad possibilities for easy daytrips into the surrounding river landscape, forest or neighbouring cities and towns.

About twenty kilometres outside Cologne sits Schloss Brühl. Built in 1725, this Rococo and Baroque mansion was given a World Heritage listing by UNESCO in 1984, and is today a magnificently preserved part of the area’s history. Concerts are regularly given in the evenings on the garden grounds in the warmer months. One kilometre southeast of the Schloss is Falkenlust, the old hunting lodge, which forms part of the estate. The lodge itself is open to visitors between 09 and 12, and 13:30 and 16 Tues-Fri, and from 10-17 on weekends. The Schloss itself is open from Tue-Fri 09-17 and Sat, Sun and Holidays 10-18. Schloss Augustusburg, Schlossstrasse 6, (M) Bruehl, tel. 223 24 40 00, www.schlossbruehl.de.

consulates and international offices remain there today. The city is about a third the size of Cologne in terms of population. Bonn University is one of the most famous in Germany, and the town itself has an old charm to it that is mixed with a youthful enthusiasm. Ludwig van Beethoven was originally from Bonn, and his birthplace is now a museum (Bonngasse 20, admission €4). The city centre has many unique stores, and provides an interesting day of shopping. There is a market in the town square on Sundays. The train from Cologne to Bonn costs €7, although there is also a slower tram that makes the journey in about an hour which saves you one whole euro. One of the most attractive ways to visit Bonn, however, is to go by bicycle (see p.?? for bike rental). There are cycle tracks that follow the Rhein all the way to the outskirts of Bonn, and because the track is next to the river the terrain is mostly flat. The journey is approximately 30 kilometres and takes anywhere between 2 hours to a day, assuming you make all the necessary pitstops at the beer gardens and cafes along the way.

Bergisch Gladbach

Friedenswald

Northeast of Cologne is the small village of Bergisch Gladbach. Set at the base of rolling hills and farmland, there are many walking trails and bicycle paths that wind through forests, and from the top of the walking track at Siefen one has a fantastic view over Cologne. In the town there is a cosy atmosphere, and many of the older buildings are well restored and maintained, the most notable of which is the old Rathaus next to the town square. Every Sunday there is a market where you can still buy home-grown vegetables and jam. If the place in itself isn’t already pretty enough, Bergisch Gladbach spawned one of Germany’s most famous supermodels, Heidi Klum. Take the S11 S-Bahn to get there from central Cologne, departing every twenty minutes on weekdays, every forty minutes of Sundays; journey time twenty minutes.

Due south of Cologne is the stately Friedenswald. This forest is a protected area that incorporates the Forestry Botanical Gardens near Rodenkirchen, which contains over 3,000 different types of plant life from all over the world. The area provides the perfect spot for picnics and cycling. There are both wide open fields and dense tree growth, so if you feel the need to get back to nature then the Friedenswald will satisfy that itch. To cycle there from central Cologne takes about 25 minutes. It is possible to start from the Rhein and continue through the forest into the Aachener Weiher Guertel, which rings the innenstadt.

Schloss Brühl

Bonn The city of Bonn is just a twenty minute train ride from Cologne, and there is much to see and do there. After the Second World War, Bonn became the temporary capital of West Germany until Berlin took over again, though many

Zoo Riehler Str. 173, MZoo/Flora, tel. 778 50, www.

zoo-koeln.de. Hang out with the monkeys. With a huge variety of animals in spacious enclosures the zoo offers a peaceful day out. A highlight is the elephant exhibit, which now welcomes the birth of a new baby. The zoo is right next door to the Botanical Gardens and an U-Bahn station. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Admission €12/6.

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Aachen Another pleasant day trip is the city of Aachen, only 45 minutes by train west of Cologne. Aachen stands as one of Germany’s most overlooked towns; the reality is that Aachen has many attractions to offer, the main one being the fantastic and ancient Dom cathedral which is architecturally interesting, but also as the burial place of Charlemagne. Aachen has a big university population, and a thriving nightlife. A return train ticket to Aachen from Cologne will cost about €25.

Walking & Bike tours Kölner Fahrradverleih, tel. 0171 629 87 96, bike@

koelnerfahrradverleih.de, www.koelnerfahrradverleih. de. Great fun three-hour guided bicycle tours of the city that start at 13:00 for groups of less that six (choose your own time if there are more) that take in the highlights of the city from the Dom to a quick jaunt through some green open spaces. Bicycle rental without a guide is also possible. For more information on prices and schedules see their excellent website.

Sightseeing tours Cologne Coach Service Breslauer Platz, tel. 979 25

70, www.ccs-busreisen.de. English and German language city tours by bus, starting from the tourist information office opposite the Cathedral doors. Daily departures at 10:00, 12:30, 15:00, Sat also at 17:30. The tour includes a visit to the Stadtmuseum. Buy tickets from the driver. Q Tickets €15/4.

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Getting around Airport Köln/Bonn Flughafen (airport) is 17km south of town and is serviced by the S13 S-Bahn train, which departs from Köln Hauptbahnhof every twenty minutes, taking about 20 minutes and costing €2. Alternatively, hop on the slower bus 170 from the rear of the station. A taxi to the airport costs around €25 and takes anywhere from 15 to 35 minutes, depending on traffic, making it better to catch the train. The airport is well-organised and efficient. Check-in times at the airport depend on the carrier, but in general it is good practice to arrive at least an hour before your plane leaves. Note that food at the airport is very expensive at almost double the normal going rate, with perhaps only the Burger King outlet charging normal prices. Budget travellers who don’t want to spend more on food than on their flight ticket are advised to stock up on food and drinks at a city supermarket. The airport has a small display section filled with curious spy technology - lovers of gadgets should enjoy this strange little showcase.

Airport, tel. 022 03 40 40 01, information@koeln-bonn-

airport.de, www.koeln-bonn-airport.de. Note the funky logo design throughout the airport and its website. Guided tours of the airport are available for €5/3 on weekdays at 10.00, 11.45, 13.30 and 15.15 (bring ID).

Buses International buses and coaches depart from the rear of the Hauptbahnhof train station. There you will find the Eurolines office which serves international cities such as Paris, London and Amsterdam, plus offices of the domestic carriers.

Getting around

Intercity bus transport is a cheap way of getting around Germany and abroad. Departure times are not as frequent as trains however, and the journey may take much longer. Major operators in Germany include Berlin Linien Bus (www.berlinlinienbus.de), which has a dense national network and some international destinations, and Eurolines (Deutsche Touring, www.deutschetouring.com), part of the Eurolines international bus network.

Eurolines Breslauer Platz, tel. 13 52 52, koeln@tour-

ing.de, www.eurolines.de. International and long-distance buses.

Car rental Even though Cologne itself is a nightmare for foreign drivers, with all the one-way streets, trams, bicycles and pedestrians, there are many good road trips outside the city. There are many rental car companies operating from the airport, as well in as the city.

Avis Hauptbahnhof, Reisezentrum 2, tel. 221 913 00

63, www.avis.de. Budget Köln/Bonn Airport, tel. 220 340 23 50, www. budget.de. Europcar Hauptbahnhof, tel. 139 27 48, www.europcar.de. Hertz Bismarckstr. 19-21, tel. 51 50 84, www.hertz. de.

Public transport Cologne’s public transport system is clean and efficient. There are buses, trams, and U-Bahn (metro) and S-Bahn (commuter) trains. It is possible to get day tickets that cover

all the options in the centre, and the 5-person ticket is a good deal. Tickets can be bought from machines on the platforms or in tram cars (coins only).

Taxis Taxis are everywhere in Cologne, and hailing one should not be a problem. It costs €1 if you hail a cab, and there’s a €2 starting fee with €1.25 charged per kilometre. There are certain areas that have taxis in rank, but mostly they are just cruising around. If you hail a cab and intend on using a credit card you should ask them if they can take it first.

Lilli-Taxi, tel. 38 38 55. Taxi Kur, tel. 220 395 95 70. Group taxis. Taxi-Köln, tel. 966 16 32, www.taxi-claren-ulhaas. de.

Trains

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Cologne In Your Pocket

DB (Deutsche Bahn, German railways) uses a number of train types on long-distance routes. The supersexy, delux highspeed ICE trains (InterCity Express; ‘eeh-tsay-ay’) rip through the countryside at up to 300km/hr on purpose-built tracks. Every seat has a headphone plug for eight music stations, and you may get a TV screen too. Table seats have 220V plugs for laptops, and some carriages have amplifiers to enable clear mobile phone conversations. EC (EuroCity) and IC (InterCity) trains are less swank, but still very good, connecting international and German cities respectively. Seat reservations on InterRegion Express and InterCity trains are optional and cost €3; they are free if you buy your ticket from a vending machine or book it online. All kinds of tickets can be purchased at all train stations. All major railway stations have counters with semi-English speaking staff. Although the station queues are efficiently organised, you may be in for a wait when it’s busy, and it’s good to know that tickets can also be purchased from machines placed in the halls that also have instructions in English; pay with cash or credit card. The DB’s German and European online train timetable at www.bahn.de is so good that it’s often easier to use for planning trips within neighbouring countries than the relevant

Sco national websites. It can handle complicated international connections and lists prices for trips within Germany. Smart travellers book train tickets online via DB’s excellent website www.bahn.de. Good reductions of up to 50% are available for a limited amount of return tickets bought online, especially if you choose a ticket that is valid for a particular departure. You can pay by credit card and print out your ticket at home – that plus your credit card is all you need to take along. The cardholder must be among the travellers though – else, you must opt for having a normal ticket mailed to you, which is free but takes a few days. This is also the only way to book international tickets online.

Hauptbahnhof. The main train station is Köln Hauptbahn-

hof, which is a busy transportation hub for regional, national and interational trains. There are good connections to all major German cities. The U-Bahn metro station is underneath the Hauptbahnhof. The train station itself is a mini shopping centre, and contains bars, restaurants, post office (open 06:00-22:00, Sun 07:00-22:00), ATMs and a small supermarket. The station itself is in the centre of town, and lies in the shadow of the Dom. The tourist infomation office is at the front of the station under the windows facing the Dom.

Travel Agents STA Travel Zülpicher Str. 178, tel. 221 42 12 54.

Student-orientated travel agency. Thomas Cook Köln/Bonn Airport, Terminal 2, tel. 220 39 54 90. V. Beust & Partner Am Hof 30, tel. 221 205 05 10, www.von-beust-reisen.de.

Cycling Most German cities are well-equipped for cycling, with plenty of safe bike paths, and patient traffic that is used to sharing the asphalt with bi-wheel transport. In summer, perhaps the bet way to enjoy yourself is to get a picnic together, rent a bike and head out into the countryside along well-marked bike paths to enjoy the good times while they last. The tourist information office will have further details on possible routes and destinations, cycle maps and bike rental addresses.

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Mail & phones Express mail DHL , tel. 0180 53 45 22 55, www.dhl.de. Owned by Deutsche Post, DHL operates through the post office branches. EMS Escherstr. 177, tel. 221 177 90. Federal Express Dieselstr. 6, tel. 0800 123 08 00, www.fedex.com. TNT Josef Lindenweg 18, tel. 220 39 33 00.

shopping To call abroad from Germany, dial 00 (the international access code) followed by the relevant country code, city code and subscriber’s number. To phone Germany from abroad or using roaming on your mobile phone, dial 0049 (Germany’s code) followed by the city code (dropping the first zero) and the subscriber’s number.

Books Ludwig C-2, Hauptbahnhof, tel. 126 01 07, www.lesen-

mit-ludwig.de. This handy little bookstore has quite a lot of English literature, both modern and classic. Also home to a post office.

Mayersche Bookstore B-2, Hohestr. 68-82, tel. 920 10 90. This large book store chain has a wide selection. The English literature section is quite extensive, as is the French section.

Internet cafés

Department stores

Future Point Richmodstr. 13, tel. 221 206 72 06, info@ futurepoint.de. €1.5 per hour. Internet Jugendcafe Helmholtzplatz 11, tel. 221 546 34 61, www.ijc.de. €1 per hour. Weidengasse Internet Weidengasse 31, tel. 221 130 10 77. €1 per hour. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.

Galeria Kaufhof B-2, Hohestr. 41-53. A huge depart-

Mobile phones

shopping centre with a few stores and a nice café/restaurant. It lacks the variety to be too satisfying though. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

ment store in the centre of town. You can find everything here; clothes, shoes, food, wine, electrical items and more. QOpen 09:30 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

Neumarkt Galerie B-2, Neumarkt 2. This is a modest

Several companies offer nation-wide GSM coverage in Germany. Travellers with a mobile phone can choose to roam using one of the networks, but be aware of relatively high charges for phoning, and even accepting a local or international call. If you’re planning to be in Germany for a while, consider buying a pre-paid SIM card for one of the networks, so that you have a local number with which you call for local rates and don’t pay for incoming calls. The amount on the card can be topped up easily by purchasing credit at any kiosk, tobacconist, bookshop or phone card machine. Make sure that your mobile phone is not blocked for using other SIM cards. All German mobile phone companies offer SIM card packages, with small differences in rates. Count on paying about €10 for the SIM card number, with any extra cash going to phone credit. There’s no need to bring ID. The best places for buying SIM cards are the generic phone shops, which will offer all cards and can advise on which is best for your calling habits.

Peek & Cloppenberg B-2, Schildergasse. Quite an

expensive fashion store, with a surprisingly limited range yet it is one of the biggest in Cologne. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

Electronics Mediamarkt B-2, Hohestr. 121. This huge music and technology store will satisfy every desire you have if it involves electricity: mobile phones, CDs, DVDs, computers, hairdryers, batteries etc. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

Fashion Esprit B-2, Hohestr. 160-168. All is Esprit at this relatively

large store. Keep up to date with fashion and relieve your wallet of the burden of holding your money.

The Mediamarkt shop carries phone accessories for all brands of mobile phones, and provides products for all the German mobile service providers.

H&M B-2, Hohestr. 113 & 152. A variety of clothes and

Post

Himbeertörtchen A-3, Engelbertstr. 43, tel. 998 20

Deutsche Post (www.deutschepost.de) offers quick and efficient mail services, and also happens to own DHL if you want to send something larger than a letter. Mailing a postcard within Germany costs €0.45, €0.65 to Europe and €1 to other countries. A letter under 20 grams costs €0.55 to mail within Germany, €0.70 within Europe and €1.70 further afield. Colourful stamps are for sale at the post office, from stamp machines (that have instructions in a dozen languages) or from tobacconists. Note that the euro-denominated stamps are only valid for sending mail from Germany.

Post office Ludwig bookstore, Hauptbahnhof. The main

post office is located across the river at Kaltenbornweg 1 - but this small office inside the Hauptbahnhof is much more convenient. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00, Sun 07:00 - 22:00.

Phones Phone numbers in Germany are mental, with subscriber numbers ranging from three to eight digits – so you’re never really sure if you have the complete number. Companies will often have a main number consisting of a set of digits, and add on extra digits for fax numbers, etc.

Cologne In Your Pocket

accessories for men, women and children, and often pieces of clothing that should never have left the design sketchpad.

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37, www.himbeertoertchen.de. Cool accessories, stylish clothes and friendly service. With a delicate selection of designers, Himbeertörtchen (named after a small raspberry cake) holds much to admire. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Mon 14:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

City codes The phone codes for the World Cup host and other cities. The longer the code, the more piddly the town. Berlin 030 Cologne 0221 Dresden 0351 Munich 089 Dortmund 0231 Frankfurt 069 Gelsenkirchen 0209 Hamburg 040 Hanover 0511 Kaiserslautern 0631 Leipzig 0341 Nürnberg 0911 Stuttgart 0711

Madamski A-3, Engelbertstr. 23, tel. 310 9480. A small

store that offers a special attraction for those who seek to avoid the mass produced labels. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

Süssstoff A-3, Engelbertstr. 12. Sparse, kitschy and

colourful. A little on the expensive side, but unique and interesting in way of compensation. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

Tausend Fliegende Fische A-3, Roonstr. 16. An eclectic array of styles and colours, ‘1000 flying fish’ has something for everybody, be it kitsch or chic. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

Velangel und Else A-3, Engelbertstr. 51, tel. 37 14

73, www.velangel.de. Colourful, elegant and co-ordinated, they sell their own designs as well as those of young local designers. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Mon 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

Zara B-2, Hohestr. 128-132. This Spanish label offers very stylish quality clothes and accessories for him and her.

House & Home Habitat B-2, Neumarkt 12, MNeumarkt, tel. 920

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15 00. Budget designer gadgets and miscellaneous household indulgencies from the internationally famous chain. Q Op en 10:00 - 20:00, Sa t 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

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shopping Shoes Birkenstock & Berkemann B-2, Breite Str. 60-80, tel.

25 25 29. It is wall-to-wall comfortable and strangely stylish shoes here. A nice bright store, with chatty service.

Schuhhaus Lachmayr B-2, Breite Str. 106, tel. 257 61 16. The smell of leather shoes for him and her welcomes you when you enter. QOpen 09:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

Speciality shops Douglas Perfume B-2, Schildergasse 1-9, tel. 257 73 81. A wonderland of smell, perfect for that “I’m So Sorry” present.

Haus der 1000 Pfeifen A-3, Martinsgasse 16-20, tel.

258 22 01. A specialist tobacconist. If you ever wanted to know what a €1000 pipe looked like, your wish will be granted here. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.

Litharion B-2, Auf dem Berlich 24, tel. 258 01 37. This jewellery store sparkles at you when you walk by. QOpen

Shopping practicalities German retail laws were incredibly strict in the past, with shops not even regularly opening on Saturdays a year just a decade ago, and still are not as flexible as elsewhere. On Sundays nearly everything shuts down, with perhaps just a few shops at the train station open, and on Saturdays you’ll see many smaller shops closing around 14:00. Though it may thwart your purchasing plans, it does result in a special relaxed feel to the Sundays, which is quite nice for a change. Credit cards are still to be embraced by most shops, much to the annoyance to big-spending foreigners. This is due to the system of electronic debit card payments that was in place in Germany and other mainland European countries much earlier; this is a safer and cheaper system than credit card as it always requires PIN identicication rather than a signature, and is free of the 3% commission for the shopkeepers (eventually paid by you, dear shopper). One of the best selectionx in town. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30, Sat 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.

10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

Supermarkets

Traub & Sohn B-2, Breite Str. 6-26. A very large jewellery

Aldi B-2, Richmodstr. 31. Cheap supermarket with prod-

Sports

Kaisers A-3, Hohenstaufenring 29-37. One of the main

store that has some antiques as well as more modern styles. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

Karstadt Sport B-2, Neumarkt 2, MNeumarkt, tel. 203 90. Everything from designer running shorts to tents.

ucts still in the boxes. If you need to feed an army you can do it affordably here. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

supermarket chains within Germany. Fresh produce, a large selection of beer and wine and spiffy red outfits. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

Banks American Express Burgmauer 14. Kreissparkasse Koeln Neumarkt 18-24. Norisbank Apostelnstr. 13. PSD Bank Laurenzplatz 2.

Office supplies Bürobedarf Hänsel Marsilstein 15-19, tel. 20 64 60. K.S.Schnitzler Luxemburger Str. 193, tel. 41 35 46.

Real estate ATIS Müller International Overstolzenstr. 2a, tel. 934 63 30.

K.H. Wiegand Immobilien Von-Werth-Str. 18, tel. 16 03 70.

Reuter Immobilien Hohenzollernring 12, tel. 257 01 01.

Local consulates Consulate General of Italy Universitätstr. 81, tel. 40 08 70, http://www.consolato-italia-colonia.de/.

Municipality Fritz Schramma is currently the mayor of Cologne, and as been since September of 2000. He is part of the CDU party, which is a little to the right of the political centre. Cologne currently has 1,022,627 inhabitants and borders stretching 130km. Town Hall Laurenzplatz 1/3, tel. 22 10, www.stadtkoeln.de.

Currency exchange Reisebank Hauptbahnhof, tel. 20 03 20 04, www.

reisebank.de. The most convenient place for converting cash currency, with offices all over Cologne. Also at the airport (open 07:00-19:00). QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.

Dentists For emergencies call tel. 01805 98 67 00 (24hrs).

Zentrum fuer klinische Zahnmedizin Hansaring 55, tel. 474 79 00.

Hairdressers Haarstudio 2000 Schildergasse 2-4, tel. 258 01 27. Studio Peter Steimel Apostelnkloster 17, tel. 257 03 09.

Toni & Guy Hohenzollernring 49, tel. 257 34 13.

Health Clinics & Hospitals Klinik am Ring Hohenstaufenring 28, tel. 92 42 41 00, www.klinik-am-ring.de.

Krankenhaus der Augustinerinnen Jakobstrasse 2731, tel. 330 80, www.koeln-kh-augustinerinnen.de.

Pharmacies Am Opernhaus Apotheke Breite Str. 29, tel. 258 01 60.

Apotheke am Neumarkt Neumarkt 2, tel. 272 73

Embassies Although some German cities have consulates of certain countries, most only have a diplomatic representation in Berlin. Below are all the details of the Berlin embassies of the participating World Cup countries. The city code for Berlin is (+49) (0)30. Angola Wallstraße 58, tel. 24 08 970, botschaft@ botschaftangola.de, http://www.botschaftangola.de. Argentina Kleiststraße 23-26, tel. 226 68 90, info@ argentinische-botschaft.de, www.argentinischebotschaft.de. Australia Wallstr. 76-79, MI, tel. 880 08 80, www. australian-embassy.de. Brazil Wallstrasse 57, tel. 72 62 80, [email protected], http://www.brasilianische-botschaft.de. Costa Rica Dessauer Strasse 28/29, tel. 26 39 89 90, [email protected], http://www. botschaft-costarica.de/. Croatia Ahornstraße 4, tel. 21 91 55 14, info@ kroatische-botschaft.de. Czech Republic Wilhelmstr. 44, tel. 22 63 80, www.mzv.cz/berlin. Ecuador Kaiser-Friedrich-Str. 90, tel. 800 96 95, [email protected], http://www.embassyecuador.org. France Pariser Pl. 5, tel. 590 03 90 00, www. botschaft-frankreich.de. Ghana Stavangerstr. 17-19, tel. 547 14 90, consular@ ghanaemberlin.de, http://www.ghanaemberlin.de. Iran Podbielskiallee 65-67, tel. 84 35 30, iran. [email protected], http://www.iranembassy.de. Italy Hiroshimastr. 1-7, tel. 25 44 00, w w w. botschaft-italien.de. Ivory Coast Lützowstrasse 33-36, tel. 590 02 30. Japan (Consulate General) D-3, Kleiststr. 23-26, tel. 21 09 40, www.botschaft-japan.de. Mexico Klingelhöferstr. 3, tel. 269323 0, mail@ embamexale.de, http://www.embamex.de. Netherlands Klosterstr. 50, tel. 20 95 60, www. niederlandeweb.de. Paraguay Hardenbergstr. 12, tel. 319 98 60, [email protected]. Poland Lassenstr. 19-21, tel. 223 13 20, www. botschaft-polen.de. Portugal Zimmerstr. 56, tel. 590 06 35 00. Saudi-Arabia Kurfürstendamm 63, tel. 88 92 50. Serbia-Montenegro Taubertstrasse 18, tel. 895 77 00, [email protected]. South Korea Schöneberger Ufer 89-91, tel. 26 06 50, [email protected], www.koreaemb.de. Spain Lichtensteinallee 1, TG, tel. 254 00 70, www. spanischebotschaft.de. Sweden Rauchstr. 1, tel. 50 50 60, www.schweden.org. Switzerland Otto-von-Bismarck-Allee 4 A, tel. 390 40 00, [email protected], www.botschaftschweiz.de. Togo Grabbeallee 43, tel. 48 47 64 71, [email protected], www.botschaft-togo.de. Tunisia Lindenallee 16, tel. 36 41 07 0. Ukraine Albrechtstrasse 26, tel. 28 88 72 20, [email protected], www.botschaft-ukraine.de. United Kingdom Wilhelmstr. 70-71, MI, tel. 20 45 70, www.britischebotschaft.de. USA Neustädtische Kirchstr. 4-5, MI, tel. 830 50, www.usembassy.de. American Citizen Services: tel. 832 92 33.

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Apotheke im Hauptbahnhof C-2, Hauptbahnhof, tel. 139 11 12. QOpen 06:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

Birkenapotheke Hohestaufenring 59, tel. 240 22 42.

Hansa Apotheke C-1, Ebertplatz 7, tel. 73 18 92. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

street register

Mauritius Therme A-3, Mauritiuskirchplatz 3-11, MMauritiuskirchplatz, tel. 92 41 39 10, www.mauritius-ht.de. A thermal bath designed to seduce the senses and calm the soul. Enjoy the many various saunas and steam rooms here, or relax in one of the meditation rooms. A perfect place to unwind, and only a five minute walk from Neumarkt. Q Admission €12 for 3hrs.

Pools Agrippabad B-3,. AgrippabadKaemmergasse 1PostStr.T:

0221 279 17 30www.koelnbaeder.deIf you get the urge to go swimming yet are turned off by the colour of the Rhein then do not despair, for there is the Agrippabad with its large laps pool, kids pools, outside pools, slippery-slide, diving boards, saunas, and fitness area. A great place to tire out the kids, so expect shrill cries of happiness from them. Q Admission €4.50m, €12.50 incl. saunas, for 2hrs. Claudius Therme Sachsenbergstr. 1, www.claudiustherme.de. A very large and busy thermal bath. What is lost in the size of the place is made up for with the extensive array of saunas, spas, pools, meditation rooms and bars. To ensure a comfortable time, bring a towel, a bath-robe and a pair of sandals. Anglo-Saxon inhibitions have no place here: bathing costumes are not deemed appropriate. Q Admission €13 for 2hrs.

www.inyourpocket.com Sco

Cologne In Your Pocket

Aachener Str. A-2 Achtergäßchen C-4 Achterstr. C-4 Adam-Stegerwald-Str. E/F-1 Adolf-Fischer-Str. B-1 Adolphstr. D-3 Agrippastr. B-3 Alarichstr. D/E-3 Albertusstr. A-2 Alemannenstr. E-3 Alexianerstr. B-3 Alfred-Schütte-Allee D-3/4 Allerheiligenstr. C-1 Allerseelenstr. E-4 Alsenstr. D-2 Alte Mauer am Bach B-3 Alte Wallgasse A-2 Alteburgerstr. C-4 Altenbergerstr. C-1/2 Altengrabengäßchen B-2 Alter Markt C-2 Alter Mühlenweg D-3/4 Am Alten Posthof B-2 Am Alten Ufer C-1/2 Am Bayernturm C-4 Am Bollwerk C-2 Am Deutzer Stadtgarten D/E-3 Am Domhof C-2 Am Duffesbach A-4 Am Frankenturm (6) C-2 Am Grauen Stein E/F-4 Am Hof C-2 Am Justizzentrum A-4 Am Kümpchenshof A/B-1 Am Leystapel C-3 Am Malzberg C-3 Am Pantaleonsberg B-3/4 Am Rinkenpfuhl A-3 Am Römertor B-2 Am Salzmagazin B-1 Am Trutzenberg B-3/4 Am Weldenbach B-3/4 Am Weyertor A-3 An den Dominikanern B-2 An den Maien E-4 An der Bastion D-3 An der Berlich B-2 An der Bottmühle C-4 An der Eiche C-4 An der Hahnepooz A-3 An der Lenzwiese F-3/4 An der Linde C-1 An der Malzmühle C-3 An der Münze C-1 An der Pauluskirche B-4 An der Pulvermühle F-3 An der Rechtschule B-2 An der Ruhr B-2 An Lyskirchen C-3 An Sankt Magdalenen C-4 An St. Agatha B-3 An St. Katharinen C-3/4 An St. Urban F-1 An Zint Jan C-3/4 Ankerstr. B-4 Annostr. C-4 Antoniastr. F-2 Antoniterstr. B-3 Antonsgasse B-3 Antwerpener Str. A-2 Aposteln-Kloster A-2/3 Apostelnstr. A-2 Appellhofplatz B-2 Aquinostr. B-1 Arminiusstr. D-3 Arndtstr. A-3 Arnold-Overzier-Str. C-4 Arnold-von-Siegen-Str. (32) C-4 Arnoldsstr. D-3 Auenweg C/D-1 Auf dem Brand (5) C-2 Auf dem Hunnenrücken B-2 Auf dem Rothenberg C-2 Auf Rheinberg C-3 Augustinerstr. C-3 Bahnhofvorplatz C-2 Balduinstr. A-3 Balthasarstr. B-1 Barbarossaplatz A-3 Barmer Platz D-2 Bataverstr. D-3 Baumstr. B-3 Bayernstr. C-4 Bebelplatz D-3 Bechergasse C-2 Beethovenstr. A-3 Belfortstr. C-1 Bendorfer Weg E/F-3 Benediktusgasse D-3 Benesisstr. A-2 Benjaminstr. D-3 Betzdorfer Str. D-2 Biberstr. C-4 Bischofsgartenstr. C-2 Bismarckstr. A-2 Blaubach B-3 Blaue-Funken-Wall B-4 Blumenstr. B-1 Bobstr. B-3 Bolzengasse C-2 Börsengasse C-3 Börsenplatz B-2

Brabanter Str. A-2 Brandenburgstr. C-1 Breite Str. B-2 Bremerstr. B-1 Breslauer Platz C-2 Brigittengäßchen C-2 Brückenstr. B-2 Brüderstr. B-2 Brügelmannstr. E-1/2 Bruktererstr. D-3 Brunostr. B/C-4 Brüsseler Str. A-2 Burgenlandstr. D/F-3 Bürgerstraße (7) C-2 Burghöfchen (21) B-3 Burgmauer B-2 Burgunderstr. A-4 Buschgasse C-4 Buttermarkt C-2 Cäcilienstr. B-3 Camberger Str. F-3 Cardinalstr. B-2 Cheruskerstr. D-3 Chlodwigplatz C-4 Christophstr. A/B-2 Christtannenweg E-4 Clemensstr. B-3 Clever Str. C-1 Constantin Str. D-2 Cordulastr. B-1 Corneliusstr. C-4 Custodisstr. D-3 Dagobertstr. C-1 Dasselstr. A-3 Dechant-Löbbel-Platz B-1 Deutz-Kalker-Str. D/F-2 Deutz-Mülheimer-Str. E-1/2 Deutzer Brücke C-3 Deutzer Freiheit D-2 Deutzer Ring D/F-3 Deutzer Werft D-3 Dillenburger Str. F-3 Domgasse B-2 Domprobst-Ketzer-Str. B-2 Domstr. C-1 Dr.-Simons-Str. E-4 Dreikönigenstr. C-4 Drususgasse B-2 Düppelstr. D-2 Ebertplatz C-1 Edith-Stein-Str. E-1 Efeuplatz E-4 Ehrenstr. A-2 Eifelplatz A-4 Eifelstr. A/B-4 Eifelwall A-4 Eigelstein B-1 Eintrachtstr. B-1 Eitorfer Str. E-2/3 Elisenstr. B-2 Elsaßstr. B/C-4 Elstergasse B-2 Emser Str. F-3 Enge F-2 Engelbertstr. A-3 Enggasse B-2 Erftstr. A-1 Erich-Klibansky-Platz A-2 Esser Str. F-3 Eumeniusstr. D-2/3 Färbergasse B-3 Faßbindergasse (20) C-2 Feldbergstr. F-3 Ferdinandstr. E-1 Filzengraben C-3 Fischmarkt C-2 Flammersfelder Str. F-3 Flanderische Str. A-2 Fleischmengergasse B-3 Follerstr. C-3 Frankengasse B/C-2 Frankenplatz C-2 Frankstr. A-3 Friedensstr. B-3 Friedrichstr. A/B-3 Friesenplatz A-2 Friesenstr. A-2 Friesenwall A-2 Gabelsberger Str. A-4 Gaußstr. E/F-1 Gebrüder-Coblenz-Str. E-3 Genter Str. A-2 Georgsplatz C-3 Georgstr. C-3 Gereonsdriesch B-2 Gereonshof A-2 Gereonskloster A-2 Gereonsmühlengasse B-1/2 Gereonstr. B-2 Gereonswall A/B-1 Gertrudenstr. B-2 Geyergasse (26) C-3 Gießener Str. E/F-3 Gilbachstr. A-1 Gladbacher Str. A-1 Glockengasse B-2 Goebenstr. A-2 Goldgasse C-2 Görresstr. A-3 Gotenring D-2/3 Grabengasse D-3 Graf-Geßler-Str. D-2 Greesbergstr. C-1

Gremberger Str. F-3 Grenzhausener Weg E/F-3 Griechenpforte B-3 Große Brinkgasse A-2 Große Budengasse C-2 Große Neugasse C-2 Große Sandkaul C-2/3 Große Witschgasse C-3 Großer Griechenmarkt B-3 Gülichplatz (22) C-2 Gummersbacher Str. E/F-2 Gürzenichstr. B/C-3 Habsburgerring A-3 Hachenburger Str. F-3 Hafengasse C-2 Hahnenstr. A-3 Halbmondgäßchen (16) C-2 Hamburger Str. B-1 Hämergasse B-2 Händelstr. A-3 Hans-Carl-Nipperdey-Str. A-4 Hansaring B-1 Hardefuststr. B-4 Hasertstr. D-3 Hauptbahnhof C-2 Heinrich-Böll-Platz C-2 Heinrichstr. B-3 Heinsberger Str. A-3 Helenenstr. A/B-2 Helenenwallstr. D-3 Heribertusstr. D-3 Herkulesstr. A-1 Hermann-Becker-Str. A-1 Hermann-Joseph-Platz C-3 Hermann-Pünder-Str. D-2 Herwarthstr. A-2 Herzogstr. B-2 Heumarkt C-2 Hildeboldplatz A-2 Hillscheider Weg F-3 Hirschgasse C-4 Hochhadenstr. A-3/4 Hochpfortenbüchel B-3 Hohe Pforte B-3 Hohe Straße B-2/3 Hohenstaufenring A-3 Hohenzollernring A-2 Höhrer Weg E/F-3 Holzgasse C-3 Holzmarkt C-3 Höninger Weg A-4 Hühnergasse (13) C-2 Huhnsgasse A-3 Humboldtstr. A-3 Idsteiner Str. F-3 Im Bischofsacker F-1 Im Dau B/C-4 Im Ferkulum C-4 Im Glockenring B-1 Im Hasental D-3 Im Klapperhof A-2 Im Krahnenhof C-1 Im Laach B-3 Im Mediapark A-1 Im Sionstal C-3 Im Stavenhof B-1 Im Weichserhof C-3 Immergrünweg E-4 In der Fleischhalle (25) C-2/3 In der Höhle C-2 Isabellenstr. B-4 Jabachstr. B-3 Jahnstr. A-3 Jakob-Rasquin-Str. F-4 Jakobstr. B/C-4 Jakordenstr. C-1 Johannisstr. C-1/2 Josef-Haubrich-Hof B-3 Josephstr. B/C-4 Judengasse (10) C-2 Judenkirchhofsweg E-4 Juliusstr. E/F-1 Jupp-Schmitz-Plätzchen 11) C-2 Justinianstr. D-2 Kaesenstr. A/B-4 Kaiser-Wilhelm-Ring A-2 Kalk-Mülheimer-Str. F-1/2 Kalker Hauptstr. F-2 Kaltenbornweg D-4 Kamekastr. A-2 Kämmergasse B-3 Kannebäckerstr. E-3 Kardinal-Frings-Str. B-2 Karl-Berbuer-Platz A-4 Karl-Korn-Str. C-4 Karlsruher Str. F-1 Karlstr. D-2 Karolingerring C-4 Karthäusergasse B-4 Karthäuserhof B/C-4 Karthäuserwall B/C-4 Kasermattenstr. D-2 Kasinostr. C-3 Kasparstr. B-1 Kastellgäßchen (18) C-2 Katharinengraben C-3 Katharinenhof C-4 Kattenbug B-2 Kaygasse B-3 Kennedy-Ufer D-2 Kettengasse A-2 Kleine Brinkgasse A-2

Kleine Budengasse C-2 Kleine Sandkaul (24) C-3 Kleine Spitzengasse B-3 Kleine Telegraphenstr. B-3 Kleine Witschgasse C-3 Kleiner Griechenmarkt B-3 Kleingedankstr. B-4 Klingelpütz B-1/2 Koelhoffstr. C-3 Kölnarena E-2 Kolpingplatz B-2 Kolumbastr. B-2 Komödienstr. B/C-2 Königstr. C-3 Konrad-Adenauer-Ufer C-1/2 Konstantin-Wille-Str. F-4 Kostgasse C-2 Krahnenstr. C-1 Krebsgasse B-2 Krefelder Str. B-1 Kreuzgasse B-2 Kronengasse B-3 Kroppacher Str. F-3 Krummer Büchel B-3 Kuhlemannsstr. B-3 Kunftstr. F-1/2 Kunibertgasse C-1 Kunibertskloster C-1 Kunibertsklostergasse C-1 Kupfergasse B-2 Kurfürstenstr. C-4 Kurt-Hackenbergplatz C-2 Kurze Str. F-2 Kyffhäuserstr. A-3 Kyotostr. B-1 Lahnstr. F-3 Landsbergstr. C-4 Langobardenstr. D-3 Laurenzgittergäßchen (4) C-2 Laurenzplatz C-2 Legienstr. E-1 Leonhard-Teitz-Str. B-3 Lichthof C-3 Limburger Str. A-2 Lindenstr. A-3 Lintgasse C-2 Lochnerstr. A-3 Lorenzstr. D-3 Lothringer Str. B-4 Löwengasse C-3 Lübecker Str. B-1 Ludwig-Str. B-2 Luisenstr. D-2/3 Lungengasse B-3 Lütticher Str. A-2 Luxemburger Str. A-3/4 Luxemburger Wall A-4 Maastricher Str. A-2 Machabäerstr. C-1 Magnusstr. A/B-2 Mainzer Str. C-4 Maler-Bock-Gäßchen (30) C-4 Maria-Ablaß-Platz B-2 Mariengasse B-2 Marienplatz C-3 Markmannsgasse C-2 Markomannenstr. D-3 Marsenstr. D-3 Marsilstein A-3 Marspfortengasse (12) B/C-2 Marsplatz C-2 Martinsfeld B-3 Martinspförtchen (17) C-2 Martinstr. C-2 Marzellenstr. B/C-2 Maternusstr. C-4 Mathiasstr. C-3 Mathildenstr. D-3 Mauritiuskirchplatz A-3 Mauritiussteinweg A/B-3 Mauritiusweg A-3 Mauthgasse C-2 Max-Glomsda-Str. F-4 Maximinenstr. C-1/2 Maybachstr. A/B-1 Mechtildisstr. C-3 Media-Park A-1 Meister-Gerhard-Str. A-3 Mengelbergstr. B-3 Merowinger Str. C-4 Messeboulevard C/D-1 Messeplatz D-2 Messeturm D-1 Metzer Str. B-4 Michaelstr. A-3 Mindener Str. D-2 Minoritenstr. B-2 Mittelstr. A-2 Mohrenstr. B-2 Montabaurer Weg F-3 Mörsergasse B-2 Moselstr. A-4 Mozartstr. A-3 Mühlenbach C-3 Mühlengasse C-2 Nassauer Str. F-3 Neue Langgasse B-2 Neue Weyerstr. A/B-3 Neuhöfferstr. D-2 Neuköllner Str. B-3 Neumarkt B-3 Neusser Str. B-1

Neven-Du-Mont-Str. B-2 Niederichstr. C-1 Norbertstr. A-2 Nord-Süd-Fahrt B-3 Obenmarspforten C-2 Odenwaldstr. F-3 Offenbachplatz B-2 Opladener Str. D-2 Osterglockenweg E-4 Ostermannplatz (15) C-2 Östliche Zubringerstr. E-3 Otto-Fischer-Str. A-4 Otto-Gerig-Str. D-3/4 Ottoplatz D-2 Overstolzenstr. B-4 Palmstr. A-2 Pantaleonsgasse B-3 Pantaleonsmühlengasse A-3/4 Pantaleonswall A/B-4 Pastor-Könn-Platz A-2 Paul-Schallück-Str. A-4 Paulstr. A-4 Perlengasse (2) B-2 Perlengraben B-3 Perlenpfuhl B-2 Peter-Stühlen-Str. F-2 Peterstr. B-3 Pfälzer Str. A-4 Pfälzischer Ring E/F-1 Pfarrer-Moll-Str. F-3 Pfeilstr. A-2 Pfingstrosenweg E-4 Pilgrimstr. A-3 Pipinstr. C-3 Plankgasse B-1 Plectrudengasse (28) C-3 Poll-Vingster-Str. F-4 Poller Kirchweg D/E-4 Portalsgasse (9) C-2 Postprivatstr. B-2 Poststr. B-3 Prinzen-Garde-Wall A-4 Probsteigasse A-2/B-1 Quatermarkt (23) C-2 Quentelstr. C-4 Quirinstr. B-3 Rathausplatz (8) C-2 Rathenauplatz A-3 Reinoldstr. B-3 Reischplatz D-2 Reitweg E-3 Rengsdorfer Str. D/F-3 Rheinaustr. C-3 Rheingasse C-3 Rheinpark D-1 Rheinparkweg D-1 Richard-Wagner-Str. A-3 Richartz-Str. B-2 Richmodstr. B-2 Riehler Str. C-1 Ritterstr. B-1 Robertstr. F-2/3 Röhrergasse B-2 Rolshover Kirchweg E-4 Rolshover Str. F-2/4 Römergasse A-2 Roncalliplatz C-2 Roonstr. A-3 Rosenstr. C-4 Rote-Funken-Plätzchen C-2 Rothgerberbach B-3 Rubensstr. A-3 Rudolfplatz A-2 Saarstr. A-4 Sachsenring B-4 Salierring A-4 Salomgasse C-2 Salzgasse C-2 Sauerlandstr. F-4 Schaafenstr. A-3 Schaevenstr. A-3 Schartgasse B-3 Schaurtestr. D-3 Schemmergasse B-3 Schildergasse B-2 Schillingstr. C-1 Schnurgasse B-4 Schwalbengasse B-2 Schwertnergasse (1) B-2 Sedanstr. C-1 Seidenmacherinnengäßchen (14) C-2 Servasgase C-1 Severinsbrücke C/E-3 Severinskloster C-4 Severinsmühlengasse C-4 Severinstor C-4 Severinstr. C-3/4 Severinswall C-4 Seyengasse C-4 Siegburger Str. D/E-3/4 Siegesstr. D-2 Sieversstr. F-2 Silvanstr. C-4 Singhofener Str. F-4 Sonnenscheinstr. E-1 Speditionshof D-1 Spichernstr. A-1/2 Spielmannsgasse (31) C-4 Spiessergasse A-2 Spinnmühlengasse B-3 Sporergasse B/C-2

Sporthallenweg D-1 St.-Apern-Str. A-2 Stadtgarten A-1/2 Stadtgarten E-3 Stadthaus D/E-2 Stauderstr. A-4 Steinfelder Gasse B-2 Steinstr. B-4 Steinweg C-2 Stephanstraße (29) B/C-3 Sternengasse B-3 Stolkgasse B-2 Stollwerkhof C-4 Stolzestr. A-4 Streitzeuggasse B-2 Subbelratherstr. A-1 Sudermannplatz B-1 Sudermannstr. B-1 Suevenstr. D-3 Taubengasse A-3 Taubenholzweg F-4 Taunusplatz F-3 Taunusstr. F-3 Tel-Aviv-Str. B-3 Tempelstr. D-2/3 Tenktererstr. D-3 Teutonenstr. D-3 Theo-Burauen-Platz (3) C-2 Theoderichstr. F-3 Theodor-Babilon-Str. D-2 Theodor-Brauer-Str. E/F-1 Theodor-Heuss-Ring C-1 Theodor-Hürth-Str. D-3 Thieboldsgasse B-3 Thürmchenswall C-1 Thurnmarkt C-3 Thusneldastr. D/E-3 Tipsgasse (19) C-2 Trajanstr. C-4 Trierer Str. A/B-4 Trimbornstr. F-2/3 Troisdorfer Str. D-3 Tunisstr. B-2 Turiner Str. C-1 Ubierring C-4 Ulitzkastr. F-1 Ulrepfort B-4 Ulrichgasse B-4 Unter Fettenhennen B-2 Unter Goldschmied C-2 Unter Kahlenhausen C-1 Unter Käster C-2 Unter Krahnenbäumen C-1 Unter Sachsenhausen B-2 Unter-Taschenmacher (33) C-2 Urbanstr. D-2 Ursulagartenstr. B-1 Ursulakloster B-1 Ursulaplatz B-1 Ursulastr. B-1 Usinger Str. F-3 Vallendarer Str. F-3 Venloer Str. A-2 Venloer Wall A-1 Verkehrsübungsplatz F-4 Victoriastr. B-1 Vietorstr. F-2 Vogteistr. B-1 Volksgarten A-4 Volksgartenstr. B-4 Volpertusstr. F-3 Von-Gablenz-Str. D-3 Von-Sandt-Platz D-2 Von-Werth-Str. A-1/2 Vondelstr. B-4 Vor den Siebenburgen B-4 Vor St. Martin (27) C-3 Vorgebirgstr. B-4 Vorsterstr. F-2 Wahner Str. D-3 Waidmarkt B-3 Waisenhausgasse B-3/4 Wallrafplatz B-2 Walter-Kasper-Weg E-3/4 Walter-Pauli-Ring F-1/2 Waltharistr. E-3 Wattstr. F-3 Weberstr. C-3 Wehrgasse C-2 Weidengasse B-1 Weilburger Str. F-3 Werderstr. A-2 Wermelskircher Str. F-1 Westerwaldstr. F-3 Wetzlarer Str. F-3 Weyerstr. A-3 Wilhelm-Hoßdorf-Str. B-3 Willy-Brandt-Platz D/E-2 Wipperfürther Str. F-2 Wissener Weg E-3/4 Wolfstr. B-2 Wörthstr. C-1 Zeppelinstr. B-2 Zeughausstr. B-2 Zugasse C-4 Zülpicher Platz A-3 Zülpicher Str. A-3 Zwirnerstr. C-4

June - July 2006

45

50

indeX 4711-Haus AAA BudgetHotel Alemania Alter Watersaal Am Chlodwigplatz An der Philharmonie Anothai Aphrodite Babylon Bacchus Banderas Bar Tabac Bastard Café & Bar Bayenturm Bei Oma Kleinmanns Berg Bier Esel Biergarten Volksgarten Biermuseum Blauer Engel Blue Note Bombay Palace Bon Ami Bootshaus Alte Liebe Bosporus Brauhaus Früh am Dom Brauhaus Gaffel Brauhaus Reissdorf Café Duddel Café Heumarkt Café Storch Café Waschsalon Camping Berger Canton Caprice Capricorn I Aries Chicago Steakhouse China Jumbo's Chocolate Museum City Museum Coellner Hof Cologne Coach Service Cologne Tourist Board Constantin Corkonian Crowne Plaza Cubana Bar Delix Der Löwenbräu Diamonds Dollhouse Dom Dom Hotel Dorint Novotel Köln City Dorint Sofitel An Der Messe Dorint Sofitel Mondial Am Dom EL-DE Haus El Gaucho Engelbät Etrusca

32 18 18 28 18 18 21 25 27 24 26 23 28 32 24 18 21 30 28 28 30 25 23 24 27 21 22 22 22 22 22 28 20 22 18 23 26 22 33 33 18 36 32 19 29 15 28 26 24 31 31 34 15 19 16 16 33 26 25 25

Euro Garden 16 Farina Haus 33 Feynsinn 24 Filmdose & Theater in der Filmdose 26 Flanagan’s 29 Flora & Botanical Gardens 35 Fromme 22 Gebäude 9 31 Gloria 31 Good Sleep 19 Govindam 27 Graugans 25 Grill Room 27 Gross St Martin Kirche 34 Haifisch Club 31 Hammond Bar 28 Hard Rock Café 21 Harry’s New York Bar 28 Haus Berger 19 Haus Zims 24 Hemingway 28 Hilton 14 Holiday Inn Köln-Am Stadtwald 16 Holtmann’s Café 22 Hornsleth Im Apropos 25 Hotel Im Wasserturm 14 Hyatt Regency Köln 14 Ibis Köln City Messe/Arena 19 Ice Bar 28 Im Kupferkussel 19 Intercontinental 14 Jaipur 25 Jamesons 30 Joe Champs 21 Jolly 16 Jugendherberge Köln-Deutz 20 Jugendherberge Köln-Riehl 20 Kauri Club 31 KD River Cruises 36 Kintaro 21 Kölner Fahrradverleih 36 Kolpinghaus Messehotel 19 Königshof 16 Kunibert Der Fiese 14 L’Escalier 24 Lalic 31 La Societe 23 La Vision 23 Lindenthaler Tierpark 35 Live Music Hall 30 Luciano 25 Lyskirchen 16 Maggiano’s 26 Mai Thai 27 Marienburger Bonotel 19 Maritim 15 Marriott 15 Mercure Hotel Köln Airport 20

Cologne phone code: (+49)(0) 221 Cologne In Your Pocket

Museum Ludwig 34 Nachtflug 31 Neideck 25 NH Köln City 19 Opera 32 Orlando 22 Oruc Kebab 23 Pacific Bar 28 Palladium 30 Papa Joe’s Biersalon 28 Papa Joe’s Jazzlokal 30 Park Consul 16 Pascha 31 Peking am Dom 22 Philharmonie 32 Piano Bar Maritim 28 Pier 11 31 Pratorium 34 Prime Club 30 Prodomo 19 Purple Club 31 Radisson SAS 15 Rathaus 33 Rautenstrauch-Jöst Museum 34 Reiterdenkmal 35 Residence 20 Rhein-Hotel St. Martin 20 Rheinpark 35 Rheinterrassen 28 Rhine Cable Car 35 Rick’s Café Casablanca 29 Ringhotel Kosmos 15 Rodenkirchen Riviera 36 Römisch-Germanisches Museum 34 Rose Club 31

Sansone 26 Savoy 16 Schloss Augustusburg 36 Schmelztiegel 30 Schnütgen Museum 34 Shamrock 30 Sir Peter Ustinov’s Bar International 29 Skulpturenpark Koeln 35 Sport & Olympia Museum 34 St. Gereon 34 St. Pantaleon 35 St. Severin 35 Stadtgarten 31, 35 St Aposteln 34 Stardust 31 Station Hostel Backpackers 20 Stiefel 29 Sumo 21 Taku 21 Theater im Bauturm 29 The New Yorker Hotel 18 Timp 31 Tsunami Club 31 Ubierschänke 29 Underground 29 Vesuvio 26 Viman 21 Volksgarten 36 Wallraf-Richartz Museum 34 Weber 20 Weissbraeu zu Köln 22 Westdeutscher Rundfunk 33 Zoo 36

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A New Look

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Riga

April - May 2006

april - May 2006

IYP gets a new look

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