Collars

Collars BY VIGNESHWARAN.S

Square Collar

Partial Roll Collar

Full Roll Collar

CONVERTIBLE COLLARS

Shakespeare Collar

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The Roll or Shawl Collar (Fig. 168)

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1 is the first button position. 2 is the front neck point. 3 is the usual stand height from 2 = 1 inch. Rule the crease line through from 1 to 3 and 4. 4 from 3 = the back neck width plus ¼ inch. 5 is located where the crease line from 1 to 4 intersects the gorge run from 2 to the end of the lapel. 6 from 4 = ½ inch. Join 5 to 6 in a straight line for the crease line of the collar. 7 squared back from 6 equals the stand height plus ¼ inch = 1¼ inches. Square up from 6 to 8 the depth of the fall required, 1¾ inches plus ¼ inch, i.e. 2 inches.

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9 from 8 = ½ inch of spring. Shape from 9 to 6 and 7. 10 is the lapel end. 11 from 10 = two seams or ½ inch. 12 from 5 = two seams or ½ inch. Shape the stand edge from 11 to 12 and 7. Shape the fall edge from 11, 8 and 9. The dash lines from 1 to 13 and 10 indicate the shape of a smart roll lapel as cut at the moment. – The facing and top-collar combined are cut to follow the shape of the lapel and collar from 1 to 10 and 9, plus a suitable allowance for making-up purposes and turning out the facing.

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Cut the centre back seam of the facing identical with the collar from 9 to 6 and 7. Shape from 7 to 14 identically with the collar stand and continue the facing run back from 14 to 15 on the breast line down to 16, 17 and the bottom edge to complete the shape of the facing.