Cnc En Padera Planos

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How to Make a Three Axis CNC Machine (Cheaply and Easily) by Stuart.Mcfarlan on June 29, 2007

Table of Contents intro: How to Make a Three Axis CNC Machine (Cheaply and Easily) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2

step 1: Others Who Have Finished . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2

step 2: Specs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

3

step 3: Required Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

4

step 4: Required Parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

5

File Downloads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

5

step 5: Printing Pattern . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

6

File Downloads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

7

step 6: Gluing Down the Pattern . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8

step 7: Cutout Pieces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8

step 8: Cheating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9

step 9: Hole Drilling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9

step 10: Assembling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9

Video . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9

File Downloads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 step 11: Software, Wiring and Configuring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 step 12: Finished . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Video . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Advertisements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Customized Instructable T-shirts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-a-Three-Axis-CNC-Machine-Cheaply-and-/

intro: How to Make a Three Axis CNC Machine (Cheaply and Easily) The idea behind this Instructable was to fulfill my desire for a desktop sized CNC machine. While it would have been nice to purchase an off the shelf unit the issue of price as well as size proved prohibitive. With this in mind I endeavored to design and build a three axis CNC machine with the following factors in mind: -Use Simple tools (needs only a drill press, band saw, and hand tools) -Low Cost (this kind of got away from me however with everything bought off the shelf the cost for all parts is under $600 (significant savings could be made by skillfully sourcing some pieces)) -Small footprint (30" x 25" footprint) -Usable working envelope (10" X-axis, 14" Y-Axis, 4" Z-Axis) -Relativly fast cut rate (60" per minute) -Small part count (fewer than 30 unique parts) -Easy to source parts (all parts available from 4 sources (Home Depot + 3 online sources) -Ability to cut ply-wood (Succesful) Lets get started... UPDATE: - Coming soon the ability to order pre-cut MDF pieces from oomlout

step 1: Others Who Have Finished A salute to those who have laboured through to this point (and to demonstrate that it is reproducable) Here are some pictures of other peoples machines. Photo 1 - Chris and his friend put together this unit; laser cutting the parts out of half inch acrylic. Not only does it look super it must weigh a ton. But kudos, anyone who's worked with acrylic knows laser cutting it is great but it is a very very unfriendly material to drill and there is a lot of side drilling in this design. Good job guys, check out more details (and photos including some testing with circuit boards) on Chris's blog rainbowlazer.com. I particularly like his work with making 3-d objects out of 2d cuts (here) . Photo 2 - Sam McCaskill has finished his desktop CNC machine and it's looking really really nice. Super impressively he also resisted the urge to cheat and cut all his pieces by hand. I'm really impressed. Photo 3 - Angry Monk's - With MDF pieces cut on a laser cutter and drive converted from toothed belts to threaded rod Photo 4 - Bret Golab's - Bret has completed his and gone through the extra step of getting it setup to work with Linux CNC (a task I attempted and was foiled by complexity). If you're interested in his settings you can send him a message (Instructable ID: bretlyssii ) ). Great job Bret! (If you have built one and would like it featured here, please send me a PM and we can arrange for the sending of photos)

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-a-Three-Axis-CNC-Machine-Cheaply-and-/

Image Notes 1. Photo 1 - Sam McCaskill's Finished (handcut) Machine Image Notes 1. Cris and his friends finished CNC machine. Check out more details about this build at RainbowLazer.com

Image Notes 1. Photo 2 - Angry Monk's Finished Machine.

Image Notes 1. Photo 3 - Bret Golab's

step 2: Specs. I'm afraid I don't have the space (or the expertise for that matter) to go into the fundamentals of CNC here but there is one websites in particular I found quite useful in my research. CNCZone.com - A discussion forum which has a DIY machine section which is a wealth of knowledge ( direct link ) Machine Details: Cutting Head: Dremel or Dremel Type Tool Axis Details: X Axis travel: 14" Drive: Toothed Timing Belt Speed: 60" min Acceleration: 1" per second2 Resolution: 1/2000" Pulses Per inch: 2001 Y Axis Travel: 10" Drive: Toothed Timing Belt Speed: 60" min Acceleration: 1" per second2 Resolution: 1/2000" Pulses Per inch: 2001

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-a-Three-Axis-CNC-Machine-Cheaply-and-/

Z Axis (up down) Travel: 4" Drive: Threaded Rod Acceleration: .2" per second2 Speed: 12" min Resolution: 1/8000" Pulses Per Inch: 8000

step 3: Required Tools The goal was to try and keep the tools required within the realm of an average handyman's shop. Power Tools: -Band Saw or Scroll Saw -Drill Press (drill bits 1/4", 5/16", 7/16", 5/8", 7/8", 8mm also Q (5/16" closest imperial drill bit) -Printer (seemed like the right category) -Dremel or Similar Tool (to attach to the finished machine) Hand Tools: -Rubber Mallet (to provide "persuasion" when neccesary) -Hex Keys (5/64", 1/16") -Screw Driver -Glue Stick (UHU) or spray adhesive -Adjustable Wrench (or 7/16" socket and ratchet)

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-a-Three-Axis-CNC-Machine-Cheaply-and-/

step 4: Required Parts The attached PDF (CNC-Part-Summary.pdf) provides detailed cost and sourcing information for each and every required part. Listed here is only a summary Sheet Stock --- $20 -a 48" x 48" piece of 1/2" thick MDF (any 1/2" sheet stock can be used I have plans to make my next version out of UHMW but cost was prohibitive this time around) -a 5"x5" piece of 3/4" thick MDF (this is used to make spacers so any piece of 3/4" stock found around the shop could be used) Motors and Controllers ---- $255 -An entire instructable could be written on chosing a controller and motors. In short what is required is a controller capable of three axes of control (with pulsed step and direction inputs) and motors with about 100 oz/in holding torque. I sourced mine from http://hobbycnc.com they have worked well and the kit was quite easy to solder. ( direct link ) Hardware--- $275 -These parts can be acquired from three places. The conventional items can be acquired at Home Depot, the specialty drive products are easy to find at any industrial supplier, I used McMaster Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com) (I chose them because they have a nice online store), and finally because of the large number of bearings required I found the best price from an online seller (http://vxb.com) which sells 100 for $40 (leaves quite a few left over for other projects) ( direct link ) Software --- (free) -What is required is a program to draw your designs (I use CorelDraw), and a programme capable of interpreting these files into pulses to be sent to your controller. I'm currently using a trial version of Mach3 ( http://www.machsupport.com )but have plans to convert to LinuxCNC (An open source machine controller which uses linux) ( http://www.linuxcnc.org ) Router Head--- (extra) -I attached a dremel type cutting tool to my machine however if you are more interested in additive construction (like fab@home or RepRap) you may wish to look into their deposition tools. Details -the metric components and especially the cross nuts aren't very popular and I had to visit several Home Depots in my area before I had enough. -I couldn't find a way to link to parts directly on the MCMaster Carr site. To find them go to www.mcmaster.com and search for the part #

File Downloads http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-a-Three-Axis-CNC-Machine-Cheaply-and-/

C:\Documents and Settings\Aaron\My Documents\Plotter Stuff\00-Active\Instructable Files\CNC-Part-Summary.pdf (162 KB) [NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'C:\Documents and Settings\Aaron\My Documents\Plotter Stuff\00-Active\Instructable Files\CNC-PartSummary.pdf']

step 5: Printing Pattern I had some experience Scroll Sawing pieces so I choose to use a glue on pattern method. What is required is to print out the PDF pattern files onto tiled pages, then glue on each pattern, and cutout each piece. File Name and Material: Summary: CNC-Cut-Summary.pdf 0.5" MDF (35 8.5"x11" tiled pages): CNC-0.5MDF-CutLayout-(Rev3).pdf 0.75" MDF: CNC-0.75MDF-CutLayout-(Rev2).pdf 0.75" Aluminum Tube: CNC-0.75Alum-CutLayout-(Rev3).pdf 0.5" MDF (1 48"x48" page): CNC-(One 48x48 Page) 05-MDF-CutPattern.pdf (note: I've added a DXF version of the 0.5" MDF pattern to this step (DXF-05-MDF-SimpleDXF.dxf) I have removed the cross drilled holes and writing from this file to make it a manageable size, if anyone would like any of the drawings in a different format or including different information please just drop me a line and I'll do what I can) (note: I've included the original CorelDraw format drawings in a zip file (CNC-CorelDrawFormat-CutPatterns(Rev2).zip) for anyone who wishes to do some editing) (UPDATE: There is now a choice in patterns for the 0.5" MDF layer, you can download one file (CNC-0.5MDF-CutLayout-(Rev3).pdf ) with 35 8.5"x11" pages tiled, or you can download one file (CNC-(One 48x48 Page) 05-MDF-CutPattern.pdf) which has the entire layout on one 48"x48" page to print on a large format printer or tile yourself) (Step by step) 1.Download the three layout pdf files 2.Open each in Adobe Reader 3.Goto the Print Dialog 4.(IMPORTANT) in the page scaling dialog select "none" 5.Check to make sure the file didn't accidentally get scaled to do this measure the printed ruler on page one of each pattern (make sure it matches up with a ruler you trust) (I didn't do this the first time and accidentally printed out a copy at 90% size more on this later)

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-a-Three-Axis-CNC-Machine-Cheaply-and-/

File Downloads C:\Documents and Settings\Aaron\My Documents\Plotter Stuff\00-Active\Instructable Files\CNC-Cut-Summary.pdf (263 KB) [NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'C:\Documents and Settings\Aaron\My Documents\Plotter Stuff\00-Active\Instructable Files\CNC-CutSummary.pdf']

CNC-05-MDF-CutPattern(Rev3).pdf (317 KB) [NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'CNC-05-MDF-CutPattern(Rev3).pdf']

CNC-075-MDF-(Rev2)CutPatter...pdf (13 KB) [NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'CNC-075-MDF-(Rev2)CutPatter...pdf']

CNC-075-Aluminum-CutPattern(Rev3).pdf (18 KB) [NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'CNC-075-Aluminum-CutPattern(Rev3).pdf']

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-a-Three-Axis-CNC-Machine-Cheaply-and-/

DXF-05-MDF-SimpleDXF.dxf (988 KB) [NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'DXF-05-MDF-SimpleDXF.dxf']

CNC-CorelDrawFormat-CutPatterns(Rev2).zip (925 KB) [NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'CNC-CorelDrawFormat-CutPatterns(Rev2).zip']

CNC-(One 48x48 Page) 05-MDF-CutPattern.pdf (72 KB) [NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'CNC-(One 48x48 Page) 05-MDF-CutPattern.pdf']

step 6: Gluing Down the Pattern Next step is to Glue the pattern to the MDF stock and Aluminum Tubing 1.Glue the tiled pages to your sheet stock (MDF) ensuring the edges match up 2.For the aluminum tube the pattern must be glued to two sides. If the Tube is laying flat on a table and you glue the side A patterns to the top side B can be glued on either of the side faces. Tips: -Use lots of glue -Have something near by to help push down each piece -Patience (if anyone else has tips on doing this I would love to hear them)

step 7: Cutout Pieces Not too much to say for this step simply cut around each outline.

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-a-Three-Axis-CNC-Machine-Cheaply-and-/

step 8: Cheating I must apologize at this stage I succumb to the desire to cheat. As mentioned earlier I accidentally printed out my initial pattern at 90% size. Unfortunatly I did not realize this until this stage. So left with a 90% scale set of pieces and having moved across country I was now within reach of a full size CNC router table. I gave in and cut my pieces using this machine. However it was unable to do the drilling of holes so back to the real steps (this is why all the pieces from here on out do not have paper patterns glued on them)

step 9: Hole Drilling I have not counted but this project requires a lot of holes. The holes which are drilled into the edge of the material are particularly important so just take your time, you'll appreciate it later when you need to use the rubber mallet only sparingly. The areas with holes drilled overlapping are an attempt to create grooves if you have a table router that would work much better for this.

step 10: Assembling If you've made it this far I must offer my congratulations and suggest it only gets better from here. Looking at the pile of pieces picturing how it manages to become a machine may be a tad abstract so I tried my best to create instructions as close to those produced by LEGO. (downloadable in the attached pdf CNC-AssemblyInstructions.pdf). But in the interest of amusing along the way here is a timelapse of me putting my machine together.

Video

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-a-Three-Axis-CNC-Machine-Cheaply-and-/

File Downloads C:\Documents and Settings\Aaron\My Documents\Plotter Stuff\00-Active\Instructable Files\CNC-Assembly-Instructions.pdf (786 KB) [NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'C:\Documents and Settings\Aaron\My Documents\Plotter Stuff\00-Active\Instructable Files\CNCAssembly-Instructions.pdf']

step 11: Software, Wiring and Configuring Almost there. All that is required is to wire up your motors and controller following their instructions, and to set up your control software using the included instructions and the machine specific details included here in step 2.

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-a-Three-Axis-CNC-Machine-Cheaply-and-/

step 12: Finished There you have it hopefully you are finished and ready to go into production. I hope I have not left out any crucial details but if you think of something you'd like to know which I have omitted please just ask. Finally to demonstrate that it all works a video of my machine cutting out a pattern in pink foam.

Video

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-a-Three-Axis-CNC-Machine-Cheaply-and-/

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Comments 50 comments Add Comment

222464 says:

view all 360 comments Feb 28, 2009. 10:40 AM REPLY

To outland86: How much is one of those CNC kits? What extra stuff would I need to get it running? What software do you use to generate tool paths? Is there some circuitry that will make this machine compatible with MasterCam X3?

galaxyman7 says:

Feb 4, 2009. 3:02 PM REPLY Hi, I just finished this project after very long deliberation. I converted both the y and x axis into threaded rod. Everything works great except tthat when the dremel bit goes through the MDF that I'm cutting, the MDF burns and gets black. Even if I decrease the feed rate or increase the spindle rate it still burns. I have also tried slowing the spindle but that makes no difference. The bit I have is brand new 1/8 flat square slot cutter. On the package it says it can cut wood and other materials, but when it goes through MDF it just burns. Vacuuming the sawdust out while it is running seems to reduce burning, but the edges of the MDF are still blackened. Do you have any advice?

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-a-Three-Axis-CNC-Machine-Cheaply-and-/

spange says:

Feb 25, 2009. 5:24 PM REPLY You need to get CNC bits. Period. Using anything else will get you poor results. I've bought everyone of my bits from Hartlauer Bits. When you call there, Mr. Hartlauer answers the phone and fills the order. He knows everyone on of the bits and which one you will need. Also, check out https://www.onsrud.com/xdoc/FeedSpeeds.

galaxyman7 says:

Feb 27, 2009. 1:13 PM REPLY Thanks, this means I actually have to increase feed rate and decrease RPMs, which is not what i would expect, but I will try it. Thanks for the help!

mattmolitor says:

Feb 9, 2009. 4:01 AM REPLY Pictures of my completed build. I didn't stray very far from the plans presented here. I used the bigger motors on hobbyCNC and made a wooden box for the electronics, but most of the rest is the same. I glued some of the parts (gantry beam for instance) where it seemed like it would add a lot of strength. Things I observed during my build + My mistake was to cut the parts for a tight fit, this was a mistake, a tight fit with mdf parts means broken parts. + A lot of the cross drilling can be accomplished as you place the parts together. This allows the other piece to be a guide for your drill. + The design doesn't mention limit switches. I could probably stand to add these as I have already crashed it a couple of times playing around. + Use a router for the slots, trying to cut those with a drill is tough. I purchased and used a trim router that I will use as my second generation cutting tool. + There are a couple of places cap screws work better than hex bolts because the design shows two hex bolts so close together they are difficult to tighten. On the Z axis I just used 1 bolt rather than 2. I glued this whole assembly together anyway, so 1 bolt is more than enough. + The author mentions cutting out the parts on a band saw. I did a lot of this on the band saw, but it is very handy to have a scroll saw for a lot of the interior cuts. + I am very tempted to convert this to lead screws for all axis (as many others have done). + Building the base plate for vacuum fixturing would be a nice addition with probably not much effort.

mattmolitor says:

Feb 4, 2009. 5:45 AM REPLY

What holds the bottom X Axis Rail in place? I'm almost to that point and can probably make something work, but wondered what the origninal intent was. Maybe an interference fit, then once the X Cart is in place it holds it there? Did anyone else secure the rails down with glue or maybe a drilled & tapped hole?

outland86 says:

Jan 31, 2009. 7:31 AM REPLY Hi Everyone i have been getting some emails asking me about the packaging and shipping of the kits so i took a photo of the kit ready to go out to another happy CNC enthusiast. my lovely wife held it up for me we carefully pack every kit and triple check to make sure all the parts are in and safe. see the picture...PS: i have less then ten kits left so if you want one let me know..we will not be making more..to busy on other projects now.. [email protected]

pbawesome says:

Jan 30, 2009. 7:32 PM REPLY hey stuart i love this instructable because i was going to design each and every part myself currently i'm recreating your parts from printed glued sheets in solid works because i don't have autocad if you have all the parts made in cad could you give them to me so i can import them into solid works, making all the measures is a real pain. i appreciate your time put in this for us i hope i can either cut all my parts before the school year ends or i will have to do it after summer my school has no problem me coming after the school day and using their bandsaw drill press milling machine, all the awesome tools we have, thanks.

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-a-Three-Axis-CNC-Machine-Cheaply-and-/

TheNotchJohnson says:

Nov 6, 2008. 3:41 PM REPLY is this machine as designed capable of cutting cast aluminum. if not what alterations would be required, increasing the scale, materials, or cutting tool? how is the tolerance? thanks.

pbawesome says:

Jan 30, 2009. 7:31 PM REPLY i think you could replace the dremel with new holders and maybe a high power air or cord drill and i dont know but maybe getting stronger steppers

galaxyman7 says:

Nov 8, 2008. 10:01 PM REPLY as long as you have a sharp enough bit, you go slow enough, and you do multiple passes, it should be able to cut aluminum. I don't think you would be able to use an endmill to face it, but I do think you could make 2d cutouts with a small pointed bit.

oddy says:

Jan 29, 2009. 10:07 AM REPLY

Hey Stuart, before I'm saying something else, I must say that I'm amazed by the expertise you've shown pulling this together, not an easy thing designing every part of this machine(and making it actually work). That said, I live in Europe and I'm disappointed by the availability of components here. I found everything on the McMaster Carr site, which states that they ship to Europe. Though, when I mail them to ask the shipping prices, they tell me they don't ship to Europe anymore because of the export prices. I searched for those bearings, belts and pulley's to no avail. Could you suggest me a shop that DOES ship to Europe and contains those parts? With best regards, Sam

Jahguleth says:

Jan 17, 2009. 8:37 AM REPLY If I use a different threaded rod for the Z axis and different timing pulleys and belt for the X and Y axis how can I calculate the steps needed for each milimeter?

outland86 says:

Jan 16, 2009. 11:45 AM REPLY

Just somnthing i thought i should mention to you all and that is that the hardware to make this machine runs about $500 cost. As a kit it weighs about 51 pounds and costs about $60 dollars to ship to the lower 48 states..i sell it for $560 .so you see what a bargin i am offering here. for the whole machine ready to assemble with a few hand tools only. and of course your own electronics

outland86 says:

Jan 16, 2009. 10:04 AM REPLY Jan 16, 2009. 10:00 AMoutland86says: HI all Just thought i would update the offer for kits with a photo of the parts you get remember its all the hardware only thing you have to supply is the stepper motors and the driver electronics and of course a computer...i can help with support for assembly and what software etc you will need to get up and running only 14 kits left and i am sorry but i will not be making anymore...$560 includes shipping to the lower 48 states. these are sold at cost as a courtesy to those who want to make this machine but do not have time or tools to make from scratch. call me 320 469 0347 in minnesota and i can setup a paypal invoice to you or arrange payment or you can just send the money to me by Paypal [email protected] and i will ship it right out dont forget to look at my other post here for more details. as i said i am now offering some telephone and email support to help you get your machine up and running. see picture below

Jahguleth says:

Jan 11, 2009. 7:29 PM REPLY Hello, I have 2 questions: 1- If i wanted to increase the CNC working area will i have to configure anything or get different parts to connect the stepper motors or can i just cut the MDF pieces a bit longer? 2- Does anyone know a website that has info on Do It Yourself stepper motors controllers? I found a website with all the schematics to make a 3-axis controller that supports high voltage/current outputs but some components are out of date and aren't available anymore and the component list hasn't been updated. Thank you.

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-a-Three-Axis-CNC-Machine-Cheaply-and-/

galaxyman7 says:

Jan 13, 2009. 11:13 AM REPLY 1.Yes you can just extend all of the mdf and the rods for a longer travel. However, if you extend the x-axis by making the cart longer, it will compromise the strength of the machine. If you make the y-axis larger it will have no effect on the strength, and all you have to do is extend the base out. 2.there is an instructable on that subject also. Just look up "cnc" in the search bar and you will find one on how to solder your own controller.

Jahguleth says:

Jan 13, 2009. 1:00 PM REPLY I'm aware that i may need stronger motors than the recommended 100 oz/in in this project, and right now i need to start searching for the motors and that will probably be expensive. Or if it is possible to just connect 2 stepper motors in parallel to the same Axis Controller Output i'll just get 2 cheap motors and have them share the load. About the Controller I suppose you were talking about this one: http://www.instructables.com/id/Easy-to-build-CNC-Mill-Stepper-Motor-and-Driver-ci/ I can't believe i didn't see it earlier. I've already bought most of the components and will probably pick up the rest of them on friday. Thanks :)

galaxyman7 says:

Jan 13, 2009. 11:16 AM REPLY Hey I'm almost done with this project after about 5 months :). Check out my semi completed machine at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R5wnaDAaeQA .I have made some modifications, including converting the machine to threaded rod. Obviously it isn't done because the dremel isn't attached yet.

AllenKll says:

Dec 18, 2008. 7:53 AM REPLY For sticking down the paper, you could use rubber cement. I used to use it all the time for temporary gluing of paper patterns. It works quite well, and peels off with no residue. I've used it mostly on sheet metal, so the MDF may react differently. But it may be an option.

wulfhardt says:

Jan 11, 2009. 4:36 PM REPLY Regular ol' 3M "77" spray adhesive also works well. Lay down a non-overlapping layer of wide masking tape/painter's tape over your work piece, then spray the backside of your pattern with 77, then stick it to the tape layer. After cutting is completed, the tape makes it easy to remove the pattern.

wulfhardt says:

Jan 11, 2009. 4:34 PM REPLY I do believe I've found my next workshop project. Something like this could save me from doing a lot of fretwork on the scroll saw. Thanks for posting this great guide. :)

MacleodPT says:

Dec 29, 2008. 7:27 AM REPLY Hello to all! First of all I would like to thank for this Instructable. By chance I happen to have worked a little with a cnc router and now I would like to build one myself. I've had a few problems though, because we use the metric system and also because some parts I can't recognise. For example the #8 x 3 bolts and nuts, what are these? And the cross nut ? Do these have any other technical name? Help would be much appreciated! :) Thanks and Happy New Year! Orlando

galaxyman7 says:

Dec 18, 2008. 5:37 PM REPLY I am almost finished with this project. The only thing I changed was the y-axis. I made it using threaded rod instead of the timing belt. The one thing I need help with, though, is transferring the rotation of one threaded rod to the other. The timing belt I have is already cut, and I don't think I can make it into a loop again. This is what I have already built, and it has worked on and off, but it has a tendency to get off track. It is made of MDF

Snaptastic says:

Oct 23, 2008. 8:22 PM REPLY Would this be capable of cutting thin (eg 0.1") aluminium sheet? Would it be able to do fine enough detail to mill a PCB? AWESOME job by the way, and good on you for sharing your work!

AllenKll says:

Dec 18, 2008. 8:05 AM REPLY Wow... .1" is rather thick for aluminum. I used to build electric signs and channel letters, we use.063 aluminium sheet, as most in the industry do. When "thick" stuff was required we went to .080". At .1" I think you can start to call it "plate"

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-a-Three-Axis-CNC-Machine-Cheaply-and-/

Stuart.Mcfarlan says:

Oct 26, 2008. 12:33 AM REPLY

Hey Snaptastic; I'm afraid this machine is better suited to cutting wood and foam than aluminum. Consider how hard it is to cut your desired material with a dremel tool and that will give you a good idea. That said if you mount a more powerful cutting head (small router) and cut at a slow enough rate it would be more than able to. In terms of being precise enough for PCB's, I have yet to try anything this detailed however I think it would be able to cut larger traces on through hole designs, however anything surface-mount you would definently want more precision. This is a good starter CNC machine to play around with and experiment and if you find you like it all the motors and electronics can be used on a larger more precise machine in the future.

Snaptastic says:

Oct 26, 2008. 5:34 PM REPLY Hey - thanks for the reply! Sorry I should have been clearer, I meant whether the rest of the assembly would handle cutting aluminium (ie the steppers and the framing etc), aside from needing a suitable router and bit, and whether it could route a simple through-hole pcb. I guess the most detail I would need would be a dual in-line through-hole IC for op-amps etc. If you ever try anything like that I would love to see the results. Thanks!

outland86 says:

Dec 15, 2008. 4:33 PM REPLY

All Parts Hardware Kits. LIMITED NUMBER AVAILABLE!!! check pictures below !! After reading the posts and requests on the award winning INSTRUCTABLES.COM CNC Router, I decided to answer the call and produce a LIMITED number of these as a kit. I HAVE ONLY MADE 20 OF THEM SO DON'T MISS OUT! I upgraded it slightly and made a kit for all those people who just want to build one and do not have the time, the workshop or perhaps the skills to produce such complex and accurate parts. To that end, I have come up with a COOL KIT that will make it possible for ANYONE to be able to put this machine together. I have modified the basic design to make it more ergonomic and trendy looking. I colored the MDF parts to give a Snappy finish. You could never make this machine using a jig saw! You would have to be an artisan. This kit brings together all the other associated hardware so you can purchase it all in one kit. These parts have all been cut on an Industrial Komo CNC Router and are very accurate. All the difficult edge-boring for the cross nuts have been done for you. All the metal parts have been cut to length and all of the holes have been drilled. I even black-oxide coated the steel parts for a COOL look so it's just assembly that's needed. The kit arrives in a nicely packed cardboard box. As I said, I have only made TWENTY of these kits and I am selling them at my production cost. I am doing this because I wish someone else would have done this when I first got into CNC as a hobby. The kit is $500 plus $60 shipping and handling to the lower 48 states. (That's what it costs for the parts without me assembling it for you so it's a DEAL AND A HALF! Merry Christmas!) There are no returns, but I will replace any defective parts. I will try and help you if you have any problems or questions, but most of the information on this machine is on the Instructables website and it is sold under that understanding. I accept Paypal to [email protected] or you can email me at the same email address if you have a money order to send me and I will give you my details. This kit does not include the electronics. (That means stepper motors, driver boards or power supplies) I would recommend Probotix or Xylotex to drive them. You can find them on Google. They have turn-key solutions at a good price. I supply everything else, including my phone number and adddress so you feel safe when you purchase from me. Please Note!!! CNC machines can be dangerous so you buy at Your own risk. We do NOT accept responsiblity for any injuries or damage related to the use or construction of the kit. Check my 5 Star Ebay feedback rating. My user name is pcampbell2767, as a reference to the fact that I deliver what you pay for! GOOD LUCK AND ENJOY!

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-a-Three-Axis-CNC-Machine-Cheaply-and-/

woopy says:

Dec 9, 2008. 11:10 AM REPLY

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Doveman says:

Oct 17, 2008. 6:10 PM REPLY

Um im not for sure what a CNC dose but i think i do... but i thought it cut out things in metal, because i have a friend whose dad happens to be a machinist. I got to see his huge CNC.

zimmemic25 says:

Oct 24, 2008. 6:33 AM REPLY

some CNCs cut metal, some cut wood, some cut all u feed em with :-P depends on the device. (metal cutting CNCs do cost more money..)

Dodgy says:

Nov 2, 2008. 2:33 AM REPLY Couldn't you use any CNC to cut metal, by simply running the milling bit faster, and moving the stage/workpiece slower?

dung0beetle says:

Dec 4, 2008. 2:35 PM REPLY it depends on the torque that your milling bit has. If you are using a dremel type tool to do the milling, it would burn out the motor.

rahmansaid says:

Oct 13, 2008. 12:46 AM REPLY

I need to work on small cylindrical stuff. Can this system be modified to do that?

GandLBassman says:

Oct 16, 2008. 8:13 AM REPLY The only way to do cylindrical work on a 3 axis cnc is difficult, at best. What kind of work do you want to do in the interior of your cylinders? For the O.D., I would use a lathe...?

rahmansaid says:

Oct 16, 2008. 6:01 PM REPLY

I plan to do carving on wood handles, no interiors. Can u pls point me to where I can get help? Thanks so much.

thrudd says:

Nov 27, 2008. 7:04 AM REPLY It will take some creative modification of the design but it can be done. Your 3 axis will be slightly different than in this design. Yours would have to be lengthwise along the handle, height/depth and lastly the rotation of the handle. So your modified design would look something like a lath but would not work like one if you can picture what I mean. There won't be much in the way of changes to the contoller system, just the way the drives are hooked up to your system.

jeff-o says:

Oct 29, 2008. 6:52 AM REPLY Yeah, the right tool for that job is a wood lathe. They can be very inexpensive, look for sales at hardware stores and for used ones for sale in classified ads.

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-a-Three-Axis-CNC-Machine-Cheaply-and-/

GandLBassman says:

Oct 21, 2008. 9:49 AM REPLY That could be done on a 3 axis, but your carvings would be straight down into the handle, rather than following the exterior contour of the handle.

2ManyProjects says:

Nov 19, 2008. 5:04 AM REPLY I am curious, is this an original design? I am considering proposing a few changes and I want to make sure I talk it over with the right person.

Torito says:

Nov 17, 2008. 5:21 PM REPLY Well, I have made this far. Still need to cut some pieces but I am going to change the rail system. ¿Is there any specification about the belt? I mean that I don't know the strength it needs to support. I have been searching over the web and found that the only parameter you can choose is the width and not thickness for example. What is the recommended width of the belt for this particular machine? Remember that the belt helps the machine stay on the rail. anyway you can solve that somehow but I like this design. :-)

cnc_machines says:

Nov 14, 2008. 12:12 PM REPLY Though building a cnc machine under $600 seems to be almost impossible I'd say that I'm very impressed how smart people can do it possible. Thanks you for so grate Instructable information.

industrial_machines says:

Nov 14, 2008. 12:29 PM REPLY I'm agree with you about this interesting site and I wonder how cheap could be automating an old sewing machine for embroidering work? Could that be possible? [http://industrial_machines.bravejournal.com/ Industrial Machines]

Torito says:

Nov 4, 2008. 11:41 AM REPLY

Are the y axis rails round or square? I couldn't find that out...

galaxyman7 says:

Nov 5, 2008. 9:22 AM REPLY They are round. The only parts that needs square tubing are the "bearing blocks". These are what will have bearings attached to them so that they can slide along the rails.

Torito says:

Nov 5, 2008. 2:13 PM REPLY Thanks GalaxMan7!! I understood the bearings system, kind of autocenter rail and hard to move perpendicular to the rail. Excellent drawing! :) Do you have/know/test the diameter of the rail? What is the material of the bearing blocks, aluminium or wood? Thanks for your time.

galaxyman7 says:

Nov 8, 2008. 9:57 PM REPLY The diameter of the rod is .5" DIA (aluminum). The square tube is .75" square (also aluminum). The bearings are 8 mm ID and 22 mm OD. Also, I forgot to draw the nuts on the end of the bearings that keep them on. I hope that answers your questions ;)

Torito says:

Nov 10, 2008. 2:43 AM REPLY

Excellent, more than I expected. Thanks.

Torito says:

Nov 4, 2008. 11:43 AM REPLY Sorry for no positive comments before. EXCELENT work. I'm starting out by compiling files. I have been reading a lot and found out that this is my hardware option.

view all 360 comments

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-a-Three-Axis-CNC-Machine-Cheaply-and-/

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