Bsl Print.docx

1

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, MUMBAI

TEXTILE INTRNSHIP REPORT INDUSTRY- BSL LTD.

Mentored By Mrs. KAVITA PATHARE Associate Professor NIFT Mumbai

SUBMITTED BYAMANDEEP SINGH (BFT/17/L1) RISHI RAJ (BFT/16/118) SHEETAL CHOUDHARY (BFT/16/698)

2

Acknowledgement We would also like to thank NIFT, Mumbai for giving us this opportunity and facilitating our internship. We would like to thank BSL, Bhilwara unit for giving us the opportunity to undergo training in the textile department and for extending their support towards us all throughout our internship. It was a great learning experience throughout to see one of the most well planned and advanced textile units. We take the opportunity to thank all the people who guided us through the entire process and made our training a success by sharing their knowledge. We are grateful to our College mentor Mrs. Kavita Pathare, for guiding us at every stage and making this project a success. We would like to thank Mr. R.d. Jat, Manager H.R. and Admin at BSL, Bhilwara, without whose support and guidance the internship couldn’t have been completed satisfactorily.

Amandeep Singh Rishi Raj Sheetal Choudhary B.F.Tech(AP) - V

3

4

5

6

TABLE OF CONTENTS:

S.NO. TOPIC

PAGE NO.

1.

INTRODUCTION

7

2.

OBJECTIVE

8

3.

COMPANY PROFILE

9

4.

LEARNING

10-23

APPENDIX 1.

ORGANIZATIONAL BREAKDOWN

24

2.

SPINNING

24-36

3.

WEAVING

37-48

4.

PROCESSING

49-58

5.

MARKETING

58-60

6.

EXPORT DEPARTMENT

61

7

INTRODUCTION The journey of the LNJ Bhilwara Group began in 1961 when the Group founder, L. N. Jhunjhunwala established a textile mill in Bhilwara, Rajasthan. Today that single textile mill has expanded into several textile mills; the Group has diversified strategically and stands proud as a multi-product and service conglomerate. Industry pioneers in many cases, we have also established ourselves one of the top 50 Indian business groups. The marriage of traditional values and foresight has combined advancement while retaining our core. Hence, while expanding our original business of yarn, we have moved into manufacturing fabric, technical textiles, automotive fabric, knitted and ready-to-wear garments and now denim. Opportunity is the window to the future and we are looking out of it. We have diversified into areas that few players have ventured into... Graphite Electrodes, which has been forwardintegrated into sponge iron and steel billets business is one such example. We also have the largest single site graphite electrode manufacturing plant in Asia. Self-reliance is our mantra. The success of our first hydro captive power plant led us to set up India's first merchant hydro power plant. Today, the group's power business is flourishing with five projects already under its belt and is well on track towards producing 1500 / 2000 mw by 2012. Our in-house power consultancy firm consolidates our position in this segment. Integrating the Group with the times and aligning with market forces has always been a keystone of our strategy. Today, a group company features among the top ten BPOs in the Healthcare sector. In addition, our IT support company is making strides in a technology-intensive market and we are in the process of consolidating our interests in this sector.

8

OBJECTIVE The textile internship was carried out to develop a clear understanding about the following: 

Flow process sequence and Technical details on machine particulars of weaving, dyeing, printing, finishing, laboratory etc.



Particulars of raw material, intermediate products and final product, process details, product quality parameters.



Particulars of the manufacturing environment.



Human resource management.



Productivity analysis for various processes.

9

COMPANY PROFILE: BSL LTD. Ltd., established in 1971 at Bhilwara, Rajasthan has emerged as a strong global player producing over 18 million meters of fabric every year. BSL LTD. is equipped with state-of-the-art technology. Right from raw material sourcing to product finishing, meticulous attention is paid to detail at every stage of production. The emphasis is to achieve shorter lead times and greater efficiency by following the proven processes of integrated yarn preparation, spinning, weaving and finishing. The Dawn In the days when the idea of manufacturing poly-viscose suitings was a unique concept in India, the second member of the LNJ Bhilwara Group, BSL LTD. was born in the desert state of Rajasthan. The year was 1971 and the town where this happened was Bhilwara. Over the years, with the belief that there are no shortcuts to excellence, at BSLLTD. BSL has moved from strength to strength. Experience With over quarter of a century of experience in textile manufacturing, BSL is currently producing over 18 million meters of fabric every year. Product profile covers material ranging from wool, wool-blended and premium lightweight fabrics, to wool modal, Trevira wool and other specialized fabrics blended with Lycra, Silk, Linen, Tencel etc. Rewards BSL’s commitment to quality through technology and human ingenuity, has earned BSL numerous laurels and awards like ISO 9002 quality certification besides the National Certificate of Merit for outstanding export performance. BSL’s unique features:     

Inventive Product Mix Specialized Fabrics Multi-functional Fabrics Innovative Futuristic Fabrics Vibrant Design Studio

10

Learning 1. Vortex yarn has a two-part structure: a core surrounded by wrapper fibres. The number of wrapper fibres compared to the fibre core is higher compared to the air jet spinning. During yarn formation, the leading ends of the fibers are directed towards the yarn core and the trailing ends wrap around the core fibres. 

Less shrinkage of fabric: Due to structural difference the shrinkage problem is very less in the fabric of vortex yarn.



Better evenness of fabric: In the VORTEX yarn after drafting, the fibers passes through the air, through the jet nozzle, the most of the short fibers wrapped around the parallel long fibers, this results in even yarn & ultimately the even fabric.



Better life of fabric: VORTEX yarn have high degree of resistance for pilling, so can bear much more number of washings with out deteriorating the fabric quality & life.

Advantages in post spinning process 

Sizing: The even and deeply penetrated sizing, because of better absorption property, results in better efficiency at loom and less consumption of sizing material also. The low hairiness surface of VORTEX yarn also results in better loom shedding, ultimately the less breakages and the better efficiency, even with the slightly low strength.



Singeing: Singeing may be avoided or is needed in less amount. Speed of singeing machine instead of 600 m/min can be increase up to 1300m/min.



Stitching: As the VORTEX yarn have less spirality problem and good resistance against deformation, which make it ideal for stitching of fabric.

11

http://www.muratec-vortex.com/vortex01.html 2.Types of selvedge designs 

Plain selvedges



Tape selvedges: Tape selvedges are made of heavier yarns or ply yarns, which provide greater strength.



Fused selvedges: These selvedges are made on fabrics of thermoplastic fibres, such as polypropylene, nylon, etc., by pressing a hot mechanical element on the edges of the fabric. The fibres melt and fuse together, sealing the edges.



Leno selvedges: The leno selvedges are obtained by binding the wefts with strong additional threads working in leno or gauze weave and by eliminating through cutting the protruding weft ends. Half cross leno weave fabrics have excellent shear resistance.



Tucked-in selvedges: In tucked-in selvedge, the fringed edges of the weft yarns are woven back into the body of the fabric, the weft density is doubled in the selvedge area.

3.Automatic drawing in machine Staublis SAFIR S30 automatic drawing-in machine is a drawing-in machine that travels along the stationary warp beam as it draws the filament yarn into the healds and reed. 

High drawing-in rates. The drawing-in capability exceeds 2,00,000 ends per 24 hours.

12



Filament warps with or without lease and with a warp density exceeding 100 yarns per cm can be drawn easily.

4.Warp Stop-Motions Warp stop-motion stops the loom in the event of an end break. The system is activated by the lightweight metallic drop wires which have profiled shape. The large slot at the top is for the movement of the reciprocating bars which are used in both mechanical and electrical warp stop-motions.

Figure: Drop wires



In case of mechanical warp stop-motion , one reciprocating bar moves between two stationary bars. The bars have profiles like step waves. The sideways movement of the center bar is equal to the width of a step. In case of an end break, the drop wire will lose support from the tight yarn and will fall due to gravity. If it falls to the lowest possible height, then the reciprocating movement of the center bar will be affected and the loom is stopped.



In case of electrical stop-motion, the drop wire acts as an element that makes or breaks an electrical circuit. In case of warp break, the drop wire will complete an electrical circuit and activate a solenoid. The solenoid will attract a bar which will be hit by the

13

knock-off lever.

Figure: Warp stop-motion on a loom (BSL Ltd.) 5. Melange Yarn: Melange yarn is a blend of different colored fibers to develop various shades in the yarn. Different in ratio of fibers in the blend alters the uniqueness of spun melange yarn. 

Blended Mélange Yarn: yarn in which different fibers are mixed/blended together in a certain fixed ratio for instance PC (Polyester: Cotton blend) 50:50, PV (Polyester :Viscose) 80:20, CV(Cotton :Viscose) 60:40.



Non‐Blended Mélange Yarn: Yarn in which there are no different fibers blended together, but different colored fibers of same type are used to make the yarn e.g. 100% cotton dyed yarn.

Advantages of Melange Yarn: 

Environmental: Dyeing fibre before spinning, thus can keep its energy saving, emission reduction and environmental protection.



Fashion: Melange yarn can present multiple colours on one single yarn, which gives it rich colours, slenderness and tenderness. Textile made of melange yarn has a certain ambiguous cyclical effect.

14

Problems In Making Melange Yarn: 

Shade variation



Variation in ratio (esp. in PC/PV/CVC) yarns



Spots in the fabric

Application of Melange Yarn: Melange yarn is widely used in warp and weft knitting machines, various V-bed knitting machines, and winding machines, etc. Melange yarn is applicable to underwear textile, casual wear, sportswear, shirts, business suites, socks and all sports of cloth products, as well as bed lines, towels, decorative fabrics and other home fabrics products. 6..Carding section: Carding is the one of the most important process in spun yarn manufacturing, because it determine the quality of yarn. This is the process, by which fiber are prepared to manufacture a yarn. In this process, fibers are opened at almost single, removal of dust, trash, neps and short fiber to produce a continuous strand of fiber called sliver. Carding machine is called mother or heart of spinning, because it prepares the fiber in such a way, which is ready to manufacture yarn because disentanglement, cleaning and intermixing of fiber are happened here. Objects of carding: 

Opening and individualization of fibers.



Elimination of remaining impurities that are not removed in blow room.



Reducing neps of fiber.



Fibre mixing and blending.



Elimination of short fibres.



To produce a thick sliver.

Carding machine mainly consists of feeding unit, taker-in, cylinder, doffer and a set of revolving flat-bar. The surface of taker-in, cylinder, doffer and flats are clothed with pin or wire. Product of carding machine: The product of carding machine is called sliver. Sliver is a thick untwisted continuous rope of fibers, which is uniform in weight per unit length and suitable for subsequent process. The English count of card sliver is 0.1-0.14 Cleaning efficiency of carding machine: 80-90%

15

Draft necessary at carding machine: 80-120 Production per carding machine: 30-70 Kg/hr Recent development 

Metal detector



Auto leveling



Continuous suction



Electronic control system and display necessary quality report.

7.Passage of yarn on Autoconer:

Tensioning Device: Tension is applied on yarn on the basis of its strength. Weight washers of different weights are there. Slub Catcher: It breaks the yarn whenever there is any thick or thin place. Stop Motion: It stops the winding drum whenever the yarn breaks. Grooved cylinder: Give passage to yarn on package. 8.Weft Mixing:  

When a uni-color yarn fed from a single package, more or less apparent weft barriness are produced on fabric surface. This is due to the variation in yarn count, colour, tension or weft density.

16

  

In uni-color weaving, filling is supplied from at least two or more packages for the production of some plain fabrics. The individual picks are regularly alternated. This is called weft mixing.

9.Weaver’s Knot:

10.Warping calculations: Important Formula of Warping Calculation in Weaving: 1. Length of warp, = Weight in pounds/ Number of ends, Or, Weight of warp in pound × count × 840 =……………………………………………………….. (Yds) Number of ends Or,

17

Weight of warp in pound × count =…………………………………………………….. (Hank) Number of ends 2. Total length of yarn in the warp, Length of warp × No. of ends =……………………………………………… 840 3. Weight of warp in pounds, Length of warp in yds × no. of ends =…………………………………………………… 840× count Or, Length of warp in yards × number of ends =………………………………………………………… Count of yarn 4. Number of ends in the warp, Count × weight in pounds × 840 =……………………………………………… Length of warp in yds Or, Count × weight in pounds = ………………………………………… Length of warp in hanks 5. Count of warp or beam count, Length of warp in yds × number of ends =…………………………………………………… 840× weight in pounds Or, Total length of yarn on the beam in yds =…………………………………………………… 840× weight in lbs 6. Time required in hour, Total length of warp to be produced in yds =……………………………………………………………………….. Actual production in yds per hour × number of machines

18

7. Total length of warp to be produced in yds, = Length of warp in yds required per beam × No. of beams per set × no. of sets Examples of Warping Calculation in Weaving: Example-01: Calculate the total number of ends on back beam which weighs 242 pounds. The weight of empty beam as indicated from the marking on its flanges is 62 pounds. The count of the yarn is 40s cotton and the length of warp on the beam is 14000 yds. Solution: Here, Yarn count= 40s, Length of yarn in yds= 14000, Weight of yarn in pounds= (242-62) =180 pounds, No. of ends in warp=? So, Number of ends in the warp, Count × weight in pounds × 840 =………………………………………… Length of warp in yds 40×180×840 =……………………… 14000 =432 So, number of ends in the warp is 432. Example-02: Calculate the beam count of the yarn on a set of 6 slasher beams, each of which contains 525 ends of 120000 yds at a weight of warp on back beams is 12000 pounds. Solution: Here, Length of warp in yds= 120000, Weight in pounds= 12000, Number of ends= (525×6)= 3150, So, Beam count, Length of warp in yds × no. of ends =………………………………………………… 840× weight in pounds 120000×3150

19

=…………………………. 840×12000 = 37.5s So, beam count for this warping calculation is 37.5s 11.FABRIC COST

cost of a fabric depends on: 1) raw material cost 2)weaving cost 3)processing cost 4)yarn dyeing cost 5)packaging cost 6)greychecking cost 7)excise and other duties cost 8)machine and land depreciation cost 9)man power cost 10) power and water cost 11)profit Calculating the price of a given Fabric At any given instance lets assume the basic costing of Shirting fabirc. Lets assume any Basic construction just for example . The Below sort is just a hypothetical sort . Warp - 2/80 s cotton dyed yarn . Weft - 2/100 s cotton dyed yarn . Ends per Inch = 130 Picks per Inch = 90 Fabric Width = 40 inches Normally its given the Finished Width .

Calculating the weight of a Fabric .

20

Warp weight for any given Flat woven fabric is = (Total on of Ends x Total Mtrs x Wastage percentage x Warp Denier ) / 9000,000 Therefore for the above sort

Total Ends = Fabric Width x Ends per Inch x Shrinkage Percentage. Normally cotton shrinkage is 8% - 10% . Total Ends = 40 x 130 x 10% = 5720 ends of 2/ 80 cotton dyed yarn .

Warp weight = 5720 x 100 x 8% x 40 / 9000,000 = 2.7456 kgs Weft weight for any given Flat woven fabric . = Total mtrs x reed space x picks per inch x wastage % x denier of weft/ 9000000 = 100 x44 x 90 x 1.08 x 50 / 9000,000 = 2.376

Therefore Fabric weight = Warp Weight + weft weight = 2.7456 + 2.376 = 5.1216 kgs for 100 mtrs RAW MATERIAL COST OF FABRIC Yarn cost of warp and weft is to be known . Suppose the Warp yarn Cost is 5 usd / kgs and the weft is 7 usd / kgs . then the cost of Fabric per 100 mtrs

21

= (2.7456 x 5 ) + ( 2.376 x 7 ) = 13.728 + 16.632 = 30.36 usd / 100 mtrs . PRICE PER MTRS = 0.3036 USD / MTRS .

FINAL COST OF FABRIC BASIC COST =( RAW MATERIAL COST + INVESTEMENT COST )

FINAL COST = BASIC COST + PROFIT AS PER BASIC COST.

ASSUMING INVESTMENT COST/MTRS IS 30 CENTS AND PROFIT @ 30%

= (0.3036 + 0.30 ) = 0.6036 USD / MTRS = 0.6036 + 30% = 0.78468 USD / MTRS FINAL PRICE = = 0.78468 USD / MTRS. PRODUCTION CALCULATION FOR WEAVING LOOMS Weaving Calculation for weaving looms differ from different types of machines .But the Basic calculation remains the same . Factors which effect the production are only two main things . 1) RPM (Revolution per minute ) of Machine .

22

2) Weaving Efficiency . What is 100% production of any given machine in terms of picks . = RPM X WORKING HOURS X 60 RPM means that for every revolution of the motor one pick inserted . 60 signifies the conversion factor of hrs to minutes . For example :- My machine runs at 600 RPM for a shift of 24 hrs . Then the Total Picks inserted for the day = 600 x 24 x 60 = 864000 picks Therefore at a given day at 100% efficiency 864000 picks are inserted . Length of fabric(in inches): Total picks / PPI



 



  

Following of Six sigma: The company uses six sigma strategy to increase the production. Six sigma is basically a set of techniques and tools for process improvement. It seek to improve the quality of the output of a process by identifying and removing the causes of defects and minimising variability in manufacturing and business processes. Employee oriented: BSL is totally employee oriented and has a strong employee union. Any demand if raised by a minimum of 30% of workers is considered serious. Refreshment drink for employees: Working in such high temperature is not easy, the company gives a natural refreshment drink made of camphor, clove, and mint to workers as a break to keep them calm and cool. Working condition in processing unit is harsh. High temperature and high humidity, and smell of chemicals and salt makes it quite difficult for the workers to work. Also there was some solvents which spills. Reservation in college for children of officers: As a perk to its officers, company has reserved few seats in MLVTI college. Working of design department: We learned how to check the weave and how the design department works. Spinning of lycra: Lycra yarns were being produced by core spinning and top spinning

23

    

Applying wax at the time of auto-coner: Wax is applied to yarns to reduce their fuzziness, Drafting plan, to increase length per unit weight Silk weaving Marketing strategy: The does not advertise much as they focus only on their regular customers. Majority products are exported. Workers were only permitted to work in their particular section. They can enter only after their retina scan was done.

24

Appendix Organisational Breakdown FOR DOMESTIC SECTOR: Vice- President  General Manager  Assistant General Manager  Marketing Manager  Sales Manager  Field Staff (Deputy Sales Manager, Assistant Sales Manager, Senior Sales Officer, Sales Officer, Assistant Sales Manager, Sales Representative, Sales Assistant) FOR EXPORTS: Vice- President  General Manager  Assistant General Manager  Marketing Manager  Sales Manager  Assistant Sales Manager  Export Officer PROCESS FLOW OF THE COMPANY: •

Discussing of new Ideas for design and new products based on Market Survey

•

Conversion into Warp Ticket

•

Blanket Sampling

•

Approval of Blanket from Marketing

•

Receive Production installation from Marketing

•

Release Requirement of Raw Materials

•

Cloth Master Card Preparation

•

Checking of Grey fabric with Fabric Details

SPINNING PROCESS FLOW CHART FOR POLYESTER VISCOSE SPINNING UNIT: VISCOSE POLYESTER FIBRE  BLENDER  BLOW ROOM  CARDING  BREAKER DRAW FRAME  FINISHER DRAW FRAME  SIMPLEX  RING FRAME  AUTOCONER  ASSEMBLY WINDING  DOUBLING & WINDING  CONDITIONING  INSPECTION & PACKING. RAW MATERIAL:

25

Common raw materials used in synthetic spinning are polyester and viscose. They are received in the form of bale in grey condition. The polyester fibre is supplied by: 1. Reliance industries RECRON fibre – Bale of 375 - 400 kg. The viscose fibre is supplied by: 1. GRASIM industries Birla cellulose, Nagada – Bale of 200 – 250 kg There are three godowns for raw material storage in spinning section: 1. Polyester godowns – to store grey polyester fibre 2. Viscose godowns – to store viscose fibre 3. Dyed polyester godowns – to store dyed polyester fibre. BLENDING: Different blend composition 65/35, 80/20, 60/40 of polyester viscose blends yarn. Antistatic Finish: Chemicals used:  

LV40 – prevents static charge generation 2152P – prevents fly generation

Machinery used: TRUTZSCHLER (Trumac India) Components of the TRUTZSCHLER blending machine:       

Feed lattice Inclined lattice Delivery roller Evener roller Creeper roller Stripper roller 4 motors are used in the machine: 1st – Creeper roller 2nd – Feed lattice and inclined lattice 3rd – Evener roller and stripper roller 4th – Delivery roller

26

Flow of material in the blender:

FEED LATTICE

INCLINED LATICE

EVENER ROLL

DELIVERY ROLL

BIN ROOM

BLOW ROOM: Following process takes place in the blow room line: 1. 2. 3. 4.

Opening Cleaning Dust removal Lap formation

Humidity in the blow room – R.H. – 65% to 75% Variation: Standard intra lap variation = 1.0%. If the variation is more than 1.0% the lap shall be rejected. Lap parameters: Count 8s - 10s 10s – 12s 15s – 20s 24s

Weight 20.0 kg 16.5 kg 20.5 kg 20.0 kg

Length 36 yards 30 yards 38 yards 40 yards

Blow room line: There are two types of blow room line 1. TRUSTZSCHLER ( Trumac engineering co. Pvt limited, Ahemadabad, India) 2. ZFA017 ( Zhengzhou Textile machinery co. Limited, China) Components of TRUSTZSCHLER blow room line:    

Feed lattice Creeper lattice Incline lattice Evener roll

27

       

Cleaner roll Steeper roll Krishner beater Cage Shell lattice Piano roller Cleaner roll Steeper roll

Features of TRUSTZSCHLER blow room line:       

Number of beating roller – 2 Krishner beater Speed of 1st krishner beater – 825 rpm Speed of 2nd krishner beater – 800 rpm Shell roll speed – 11.5 rpm Diameter of Shell roll – 10.5 inch Calendar roll pressure – 4.5 kg per sq. Cm Lap rod weight – 1.4 kg

Flow of material in blow room line:

FEED LATTICE

SPIKED ROLL

FEED ROLL

PIANO ROLL

Clearance setting:    

Between 1st beater and feed roll – 10/32 inch Between 2nd beater and feed roll – 10/32 inch Between inclined lattice and evener roll – 10 mm Between feed roll and pedal roll – 0.125 mm

Production capacity (at 85% efficiency)  

Weight of lap produced – 1700 kg/8hr/line Length of lap produced – 4000 yards/8hr/line

Total production capacity of the unit – 10 ton Time taken to produce one lap – approx 4 – 6 min. No. Of laps produced per hour – approx. 12

KRISHNER BEATER

CALENDER ROLL

SHELL ROLL

28

CARDING: Humidity: R.H. – 60% to 65% The machinery used for carding: Maker Model LMW LC 1/3 LR LC 1/2 Various components of carding machine:        

Licker in Cylinder Doffer Feed roll Calendar roll Lap roll Redirecting roll Group roll

Technical parameter of LC 1/3      

Diameter of lap roll – 162 mm Diameter of feed roll – 80 mm Diameter of licker in – 253 mm Diameter of cylinder – 1290 mm Diameter of doffer – 680 mm Diameter of calendar roll – 80 mm

Speed of different moving parts     

Lap roller – 1.725 Feed roller – 2.875 Licker in cylinder – 840 Main cylinder – 360 Doffer – 30

Draft constant for LC 1/3 = 2.23 Draft for the machine = 102 (approx) Clearance setting for various parts:   

Licker in to feed plate – 18 TH Licker in to cylinder – 7 TH Cylinder to doffer – 4 TH

Feed mechanism Lap feed Lap feed

29

 

Doffer to crush roll – 6 TH Licker in to combing segment – 16 TH

Production in kg/hr at 85% efficiency = 19.4 kg/hour Wire point specification: Maker: Lakshmi carding company Parts Wire point specification Cylinder R 2520* 0.70 Licker in D 5505* 1.2 Doffer N 4030* 0.85R Flat PD 32/1 Stop motion for LC1/3 1. Limit switch for lap tool – it stops the card in case of shortage of lap. 2. Limit switch over feed roll – it stops the card if the feeding of double lap takes place. 3. Limit switch at front panel – it stops the cylinder if the front panel is opened. 4. Limit switch over crush tool – it senses the lapping of the crush tool. 5. Full can change motion – when the can is full of slivers the machine stops and the can is changed either by tenter or automatically. DRAW FRAMES: Drawing is a two step process: 1. Breaker draw frame 2. Finisher draw frame. 1. Breaker Draw Frame – During this process 8 slivers produced by carding machine are parallelized to produce one sliver. The machinery in use for breaker drawing frame:  

LDO/25 ( maker – Lakshmi industries) LDO/6 ( maker – lakshmi industries )

Features of LDO/25       

Maximum speed – 400 metre per minute No. Of card sliver – 8 No. Of heads – 2 Drafting system – 3 over 5 Diameter of top roll – 40 mm Pressure of top roll – 68 – 72 kg Capacity of the can – 3000 m

Production capacity for 30s count sliver ( at 85% efficiency ) – 765 kg sliver/shift. Time taken to fill one can of 3000 m – 10 minutes.

30

Stop motion in LDO/25 Breaker drawing frame: 1. Electrical creel stop motion: if broken sliver passes through the pair of drawing frame the drawing frame will automatically stop. 2. Full can stop motion: if pre-set length of sliver is delivered in the can drawing frame will automatically stop. 3. If the door of machine is opened while the machine is running the machine will automatically stop. 4. Calendar roll lapping stop motion: in case of sliver lapping over the calendar roll the machine will stop. Features of LDO/6     

Drafting system – 3 over 3 Can size – 24 * 42 inch No. Of heads – 2 No. Of card slivers per head – 8 Maximum speed – 600 metre per minutes

Production capacity for 30s count ( at 85% efficiency ) – 1100 kg/shift/drawing frame Stop motion for LDO/6: 1. Electrical creel stop motion: if broken sliver passes through the pair of drawing frame the drawing frame will automatically stop. 2. Full can stop motion: if pre-set length of sliver is delivered in the can drawing frame will automatically stop. 3. If the door of machine is opened while the machine is running the machine will automatically stop. 4. Calendar roll lapping stop motion: in case of sliver lapping over the calendar roll the machine will stop. The stop motion LDO/6 is similar to the LDO/25 the only difference being the LDO/6 starts automatically once the stoppage causing problem is sorted out.

2. Finisher draw frame It is done to give further strength and stability to the sliver. The drawn sliver from breaker draw frame is again drawn. In this process the sliver drawn in the breaker draw frame further used.

Machinery used: LRSB – 851 (RIETER)

31

Features of LRSB – 851 (RIETER)        

Drafting system – 3 over 3 Total draft – 8 Number of head – 1 Number of card sliver feed – 8 Can size – 20*40 inch Number of motors – 4 Diameter of top roll – 38mm Diameter of calendar roll – 55 mm

Function of motors: 1st motor – main motor for driving machine pulley. 2nd motor – for fan. 3rd motor – for driving servo motor for auto leveller. 4th motor – for automatic can changing. Auto leveller used in draw frame: In the draw frame auto leveller is used to minimize the yarn tuft variation and it can be carried out at the first passage or the second passage of the draw frame. The irregularity of the card feed material is the most important cause for count variation and the other reasons are: Drafting waves in the drawing process Periodic variation due to defective rotational parts of the machine Incorrect draft due to mixing sliver in draw frame fed material.

The main function of the auto levelling is to control the weight per unit length of the delivery material. For this the material is maintained correctly and checked against a free sat level and take correct action. The auto leveller regulates the hank. In draw frame auto leveller regulates the feed roller speed as per required.

Production capacity of the finisher drawing frame – 850 kg/shift/drawing frames Stop motion for LRSB – 851:

32

    

Electrical creel stop motion: if broken sliver passes through the pair of drawing frame the drawing frame will automatically stop. Full can stop motion: if pre-set length of sliver is delivered in the can drawing frame will automatically stop. If the door of machine is opened while the machine is running the machine will automatically stop. Calendar roll lapping stop motion: in case of sliver lapping over the calendar roll the machine will stop. Can change stop motion: After the can is filled and another vacant can is not available the machine will stop for itself unless the empty can is made available.

SPEED FRAME: Machine specification: There are two types of machine.

Type 1. Make Model Year No. Of spindles No. Of machine

LMW LF 1400A 1994 108 1

Type 2. Make Model Year No. Of spindles No. Of machine

ProductionUnder favourable marginal conditions Cotton- upto 13m.p.m. Man-made – upto 40m/min Production capacity – 550 kg/shift/frame RING FRAME/SPINNING:

LMW LFS 1660 2004/2005 120 3

33

Maximum draft is employed in the range of 12-14, while it is lower in ring frame, i.e. 6-7. The amount of twist in the ring frame is very less, the insertion of twist in the roving will help to with stand the strain, while it is winding and unwinding at the next process. Technical specifications of ring frame: Make Model Drafting system Top roll diameter Bottom roll diameter Pressure Motor pulley diameter Total spindle

LMW LR6/S 3 over 3 32.5 mm 30 mm 20 kg 152 – 187 mm 480

Speeds, drafts and constants:  

Front roller speed – 245 rpm Spindle speed – 15000 rpm

Total production – 100 kg/shift/machine AUTOCONER: Objective: To remove imperfection of spun yarn and make big package in the form of cone. Technical details Make Model Manufacturer Year No. Of cones Technical Specifications: •Drum speed -1300 rpm •Cone weight (Full) - 2 to 3 Kgs. •Cone weight (Empty) - 30 to 35 gms. •Magazine Creel capacity - 6 Ring tubes

Savio Orion Orion Savio Machine Tessili SPA, Italy 2005 60

34

•Drum diameter – 3.14 inches Count wise Winding Speed: Type Coarse Medium Fine

Count 15-20s 20-40s 40s and above

Winding speed 1200 m/min. 1400 m/min. 1600 m/min.

Machine sequence:

RING TUBE

TENSIONER

WAXING DEVICE

SPLICER

YARN CLEARER

WINDING DRUM

CONE

Production capacity for autoconer – 800 to 1200 kg/shift Special features of Autoconer:   

Autoconer is fed by magazine containing 6 reserve ring bobbins and one running ring bobbin. Automatic cutting and splicing of thick and thin places and restarting of the winding Its efficiency is upto 95%.

CHEESE WINDING: Objective: To wind two or more threads from cone to cheese without inserting any twist. Machine information: PS Metler Make Model Manufacturer No. Of machine

Machine sequence

PS Metler F.M.K.S Peas engineering pvt. Limited 2

35

YARN GUIDE

CONE

SLUB CATCHER

TENSIONER

STOP MOTION

GUIDE ROLLER

YARN GUIDE

WINDING DRUM

DOUBLING: In doubling twist is imparted to yarn wound on cheese. There are two processes of doubling. 1. T.F.O – In this process twisting and winding on cones is done simultaneously to provide knot free yarns. Objective: To impart two twist in one rotation of the spindle. Machine specification: 1. Make Model Year No. Of machines No. Of cones

Veejay Lakshmi VJ – 150 – HS 2004 13 144

2. Make Model Manufacture Year No. Of machines No. Of cones Production capacity – 161.20 kg/shift

Prerna PRN – 225 Prerna textile industries 1998 3 144

Technical specification:  

Spindle RPM – 9000 to 10000 Traverse length – 155 mm

TPI according to count Count 18s 30s

TPI 12 17

CHEESE

36

40s 50s

20 20.5

Machine sequence:

CHEESE

YARN GUIDE TRAVELLER

SPINDLE

YARN GUIDE

STOP MOTION

TRASVERSE GUIDE

WINDING DRUM

CONE

2. Ring doubling – Here only twist is provided to the parallel wound yarns. These yarns are the wound in cones at cone winding. At cone winding the yarn is cleared of doubling defects. PACKING: In packing department the cones produced by Autoconer / T.F.O are checked & then packed in bags. There are 5 checkers and a large number of packers for this purpose. The defects, which are checked during packing, are:1. Mixing of cones 2. 3-Ply 3. High twist / Low twist 4. Contamination 5. Snarling 6. Winding defect (Ribbon formation) The standard weight of cone is 2 kgs. Tolerance is± 50 gms. In a bag 32 cones are packed that is the weight of packed bag is approximately 64 kgs. 8-9 tons cone are packed per day. This is called loose packing.

37

WEAVING ORGANISATIONAL CHART FOR WEAVING SECTION (POLYESTER VISCOSE)

GENERAL MANAGER

PRODUCTION

VICE PRESIDENT

INSPECTION

INSPECTION SUPRETEDENTS

MENDING

MENDING SUPRETENDENTD

QUALITY CONTROL OFFICER

QUALITY CONTROL

ENGINEERING

PRODUCTION SUPRETENDENTS

CHIEF ENGINEER

MEN POWER IN WEAVING DEPARTMENT            

Technical Manager Production Manager Maintenance Manager Maintenance In charge/26 looms – 1 Supervisor/26 looms – 1 Feeder/26 looms – 1 Beam Gaiter/26 looms – 2 Weaver/26 looms – 5 Helper/26 looms – 2 Jacquard master – 1 Jacquard Feeder/shift – 1 Jacquard Helper/shift – 1



For weft supply: Supervisor – 1 Weft boy/shift – 5 Weft Coolie/shift

PLANT ENGINEER

38

FLOW PROCESS

YARN GODOWN

WARPING

DRAWING IN

LOOM

FABRIC CHECKING

MENDING

MENDING CHECKING

DISPATCH

RAW MATERIAL SECTION Raw material is stored at the raw material go-down. Polyester Viscose And Polyester Blended Fabric: - Are created with yarn of finest blends of polyester viscose and polyester-cotton fibers in the count range of 2/15 Ne to 2/60 Ne.         

Sangam India Ltd. (Bhilwara) BSL Ltd. (Bhilwara) RSWM (Bhilwara) Mayur suiting (Gulabpura) Chenab Textile Mill (Jammu and Kasmir) Shree Rajasthan synthetics limited (Dungarpur) Reliance Industies Ltd. – Silvassa(Dadar & Nagar Haveli) Wellspun (Hariyana) Wellknown (Mumbai)

WINDING M/C Manufacturer

Spindles

PEASS INDUSTRIAL ENGG LTD.,GUJRAT

120

PEASS INDUSTRIAL ENGG LTD.,GUJRAT

60

PEASS SCHLAFHORST ENGG LTD.,GUJRAT 36 PEASS SCHLAFHORST ENGG LTD.,GUJRAT 16

39

WARPING SECTION Process flow in warping section:

CREELS

WARPING DRUMS

Temperature & R.H. of section: • Temperature - 270 to 320 C • Relative humidity - 60% to 65% Machinery used (warping drum & beam): There are two models of machinery for the warping drum & beam. 

MODEL A:

Manufacturer Model Creel capacity No. Of machine Technical specification:

PRASHANT GAMATEX Lasertronic 1080 384 02

1. Working width – 1800 to 4200 mm 2. Warping speed – 0 to 800 metre/min 3. beaming speed – 0 to 100 metre/min (can be increased if required) 4. beaming tension – 0 to 450 kg (can be increased if required) 5. Maximum beam diameter – 800 mm 

MODEL B:

Manufacturer Model Creel capacity No. Of machines

PRASHANT GAMATEX A - 217 384 05

Technical Specifications: 1. Manufacturer: Prashant Gamatex Pvt. Ltd., Ahmedabad. 2. Model: A – 217 3. Creel: 2(side) x 8(vertical) x 24(horizontal) = 384

WARP BEAM

40

4. Warping Speed: 0 - 650 meter /min (Maximum) 5. Beaming Speed: 0 -100 meter / min 6. Beaming Diameter: 800 mm – 1000 mm Warping creel: Machinery used – centrally controlled tensioner type (PRASHANT GAMATEX) Technical specifications: 1. Creel capacity: 384 Production information: Time taken to prepare 1 drum – 2 to 2.5 hours Time taken to transfer the warp yarns from drum to beam – 40 mins-1 hours Sample wrapper    

Used mainly for silk Auto safety stop Software operated Tensioning device to avoid loose yarns

Technical specification: Model Drum circumference Warping yarn speed Warping length Beam flange diameter

SW- 207 7 metre Upto 1000 metres 14 – 280 metres 1000mm

Few warping defects and their remedies: Defect 1: High variation in tension within and between ends (slack ends). Remedies: 1. make sure that the end has not come out of the tensioning device. 2. Winding height should be changed. Defect 2: The surface of yarns, building on the beam, is not even and free, has ridges from one selvedge to the other. Remedies: 1. Comb width should match with the beam width.

41

2. Comb dents should be uniformly spaced.

Passage of yarn through Prashant Gamatex Warping Machine : Cone -> Yarn Guide -> Disc Type Tensioner -> Yarn Guide -> Thread Guide(for thread stop motion) -> Splitting Rod -> Guide Rod -> Lease Reed -> V-Reed -> Warping Drum -> Weaver’s Beam(After Warping)

TYPES OF SELVEDGE YARN: Lemon Yellow 3/120DN 100%Rayon Green

2/150DN 100%Poly

High Green

3/120DN 100%Rayon

Apple Green

2/150DN 100%Poly

Electric Blue

3/120DN 100%Poly

42

DRAWING-IN SECTION: DRAWER: he decide the heald shaft and then the passes the ends through dents of reed and healds wire. REACHER: he holds the ends for the drawer. Drop pins are entered after the total process of the entering of the ends through the heald frames and reed is completed. Number of rows of Drop pins is one more or less of no. of heald frames in the machine. i.e. H.F. ± 1 Heald frame specifications: Type

C – type and J –types simplex 331 mm, flat steel 5.5 * 1.2 mm 5.5 *0.30 mm Unique impex, Mumbai

Length Eye let size Strip size Manufacturer Drop pin specification: Model Size Manufacturer

Open, electrical 165*11*0.4 mm Unique impex, Mumbai

WEAVING SECTION

Machineries used: Manufacturer

Model

Reed space

Picanol

Optimax

Sulzer – Ruti

P 7100

Sulzer – Ruti

P 7100

Sulzer – Ruti

P 7100

Single width 85” Single width 73” Double width 85” Single width 143”

Waste % 4.5

No. Of machines

0

50

0

8

0

16

11

43

Sulzer – Ruti

G 6200

Sulzer – Ruti

G 6300

Air Jet

JET

Single width 85” Single width 85” Single width 143”

Total no. Of machine

4.5

36

4.5

6

3

20 147

Speed and efficiency:       

Single width projectile loom: 350 – 400 RPM Single width rapier loom: 300 – 350 RPM Double width rapier loom: 250 – 270 RPM Picanol: 375 – 450 RPM Production capacity: 105 – 110 metre per shift per machine Production capacity: 105 – 110 metre per shift per machine Production capacity of unit: 30000 meter per day at an efficiency of 80%

Accumulators: Following models of accumulators are used:    

Technomatex – Futura (Switzerland) IWF – Sweden ROJ – Electrotex AT – 1200 VIRIEL – Technomatex

Accumulator Setting: Electronic head of Accumulator has one ON/OFF switch & 4 settings are there, 1. Setting of winding Speed by a set screw. 2. Intensity of photocell can be changed according to type of weft yarn Texture or spun. 3. Amount of yarn wound on winding head by altering the position of photocell by the help of rotating screw arranged with Rack-Pinion system. 4. NT / RT setting.

44

LAYOUT OF WEAVING DEPARTMENT :

45

Various mechanisms: PROJECTILE LOOM Single width m/c: sulzer ruti 71000

Projectile picking are described as follows.

RAPIER LOOMS

Picanol:

46

Sulzer ruti G6300:

Technical specifications of P 7100 weaving machines:      

The machine handles practically all types of yarns: spun yarn, filament yarn, fancy yarn etc. In the weft the machine processes staple fibre yarns from Nm 0.5-160 and continuous filament yarns from 5000-10.8 denier. Weft density is between 0.83-181.5 picks/cm. Maximum weft insertion rate 1200 meter / min. and speed upto 400 rpm. Can work for upto four different weft colours. Nominal width 190-540 cm. Machine design is extremely compact.

Technical specification of G 6200 weaving machines:

47

    

Nominal width of the machine is 220 cms. Can work for upto four different weft colours. Stabuli jacquard for construction of selvage. Maximum weft insertion rate 900 – 1100 metre per minute. Maximum working speed is 600 rpm.

Light signals in use:     

Blue light blinking: warp thread breakage. Yellow light blinking: weft threads breakage. Yellow and red light blinking: shut down via emergency switch. Red light: mechanical fault. Red light blinking when machine is working: electronic projectile detector or weft detector switched off.

Sensors and stop motion:     

Projectile sensor: It is a metallic sensor situated at the receiving side and it senses that projectile is reaching at correct angle or not. Let – off sensor: P7100 provides electronic let off. If tension in warp sheet decreases the sensor senses it by suitable arrangement and motor regulates warp sheet accordingly Weft sensor: To sense the presence and absence of weft supply at receiving side. Angle sensor: To stop the loom at correct angle at particular degree Warp stop motion: Electrical warp stop motion work together with drop pin attachments

Airjet Toyota G6300

INSPECTION

48

Six automated fabric checking machines are used to check the fabric. Chalk is used to mark the defects. Each machine can check 3000 to 4000 metres of fabric every day. Grading of fabric on the basis of defect they contain are as follows:    

0 -5 defects – A grade 6-12 defects – B grade 13 – 23 defects – C grade 24 and above defects – D grade

Fabrics are checked for following defects during grey check:  Starting mark  Weft Bar  Reed Marks  Missing ends / Ends out / Chira  Patti  Thin  Double pick  Design Cut  Temple mark  Slub  Broken pattern  Floats stitches  Stains MENDING  

Total number of mending table – 150 Total number of workers – 160

49

PROCESSING

Organisational structure of BSL (Processing Division) PERSONNEL

GM (P & A)

PERSONNEL MANAGER

PV DYEING

DYEING SUPTD

GREY FABRIC PROCESSING

GM (FABRIC PROCESSING)

QUALITY CONTROL

QUALITY CONTROL OFFICER

OSPG PV FINISHING

FINISHING SUPTD

COMMERCIAL BPL FOLDING

PW FINISHING

DGM MARKETING

VICE PRESIDENT FIBRE DYEING

ENGINEERING

STORES

DY MANAGER

PURCHASE

ASST MANAGER

TOPS & FIBRE DYEING

DYEING MASTER

SILK DYEING

DYEING MASTER

GM

CHIEF ENGINEER

PLANT ENGINEER

ACCOUNTS

CHEIF ACCOUNTANT

COMMERCIAL

SR MANAGER

COSTING

ASSST BUDGET OFFICER

EDP

DY GM

EXCISE

EXCISE INCHARGE

Raw material godown: Its main objective is to store and warehousing of the fabric lot for dyeing and finishing processes. Fabric lot is supplied along with the lot memo & quality instructions. Types of fabric lot: 

Fibre Dyed



Piece Dyed

50

Here fabric is stitched together to get the appropriate length of the fabric and passed for the next processes. POLYESTER VISCOSE FIBRE DYED FABRIC Scouring Machineries in uses: 

Double beam jigger machine  Model: Pacific Jigger machine  Manufacturer: Harish industries limited

Technical specification: 1. Operating temperature – 50 ͦ C to 100 ͦ C ( depends on the material being used ) 2. 1000 – 1200 meters of fabric can be loaded at once. 3. Time required – 5 to 6 hours 4. Steam pipes are located at both top and bottom of the chamber. 5. Double beam jiggers have two beams. No. of machines – 2 

Jigger  Manufacture: Bennigner – Manekar Technical specification:

1. Operating temperature – 50 ͦ C to 100 ͦ C ( depends on the material being used ) 2. 400 – 500 meters of fabric can be loaded at once. 3. Time required – 4 to 5 hours 4. Double beam jiggers have only one beam. 5. Stem pipes are located at both top and bottom of the chamber. No. of machines – 16



Jumbo Jigger  Manufacturer: Bennigner – Manekar

51

Technical specification: 1. They are the high capacity jigger machine and works on the same principle. 2. Operating temperature – 50 ͦ C to 100 ͦ C ( depends on the material being used ) 3. 1200 – 1400 meters of fabric can be loaded once in the chamber. 4. Time required: 6 hours No. of machines: 3 Things to be kept in mind while using jigger machines: 1. The machine should be properly cleaned before loading the fabric in machine for processing. 2. Temperature should be properly maintained according to the requirement of the fabric being processed. 3. Care should be taken while using the chemicals and should be used according to the specifications given by the supervisors. 

Relax Scouring Machine:  Manufacturer: Dhall Enterprises and Engineers Pvt. Ltd. Parts of the range:

1. Fabric feeding system, 2. Guide rollers, 3. Caustic soda tank, 4. Soap tank, 5. squeeze rollers, 6. Expander rollers, 7. Steam chambers- 2 continuous, separate chambers (drums within it), 8. Pleater, 9. Storage chamber, 10. Intermediate mangles, 11. Hot wash chamber 12. Acid wash chamber, & 13. Take off system Technical Specifications: 

Fabric width: 800 - 3000 MM In graduations of + 200 MM

52

     

Roller faced width: Fabric width + 200 MM Guide rollers Dia: 125/150 Dia Squeeze rollers: Dia 254 MM Expander rollers: Bow type Sleeve Expanders 100, 125 MM Dia or Scroll Rollers driven in counter direction. Intermediate mangles: 0-3 tonnes Final mangles: T or 10 Tonnes NIP pressure

DYEING MACHINES: At Bhilwara processors limited following two types of dyeing machines are used: 1. Beam dyeing machine 2. Jet dyeing machine

BEAM DYEING MACHINE:

Machinery in use:  Beam dyeing machine  Manufacturer – Dalal Engineering works PH to be maintained – 4 to 5 Temperature to be maintained – 130 – 135 ͦ c Time taken for one lot – 4 hours The machine is started at 60 ͦ c and is allowed to work for half an hour, the temperature is increased by certain amount to certain limit at regular interval of time. JET DYEING MACHINE: Machinery in use:  Manufacturer – hegatex industries limited

53

PH of the jet dyeing machine – 4 to 5 Speed of fabric – 250 to 400 meters per minute. Length of fabric that can be fed at once – 550 to 600 meters Temperature – 130 ͦ c to 137 ͦ c Time taken to complete the process: 90 minutes to 2 hours STENTER MACHINE  Model: 6 chamber stenter machine  Manufacture: yammuna textile industries HEAT SETTING 1. Temperature – Between 60 to 180 ͦ c depending on the type of fabric being processed 2. Mangle pressure – 4 to 6 kg per cm sq. Number of stenter machine – 5 SINGEING MACHINE:  Manufacturer – OSTOFF singe Specifications: 

Double Jet Burner



Automatic Flame width adjustment



Four singeing positions, centring devices, slat rollers, counter rotating scroll rolls



Sequencing unit



Speed – 100 metre/ minute (can be maintained according the fabric requirement)



Flame intensity can also be controlled.

KIER DECATISISING MACHINE  Model - PF – 2000  Manufacturer – TMT, Italy Specifications: 1. Working width: 1700 meters 2. 3 decatizing cylinders with a diameter of 460 mm

54

3. Two beams have wrapper above them and one of them is vacant. 4. Exit with roll device. 5. Length of fabric rolled at once is 800 metres. 1 roll take half an hour for decatising out which the machine is placed in kier for 15 to 20 mins. Other 10 minutes are for cooling. It complete the chemical finishes being given to the fabric by baking the fabric using stem. Production capacity of the machine - 25000 m everyday approximately.

CALENDERING MACHINE:  Model - 3 bowl calendar machine  Manufacturer – prabhat textile corporation Specifications:       

Running speed – 5 to 30 meter per minute , it is generally operated at 25 to 28 meter per minute speed. Pressure – 2 to 35 tons Maximum temperature – 180 ͦc Roller face diameter – 600 mm to 3800 mm Top bow diameter – 200 mm Embossing roll diameter – 460 mm Heating element – electric pipe heating

No. Of Calendering machine - 2

SUPER FINISHING MACHINE  Manufacturer – Prabhat textile corporation Specifications: 1. No. Of bowls – 6 2. Speed of the machine – 25 to 30 meter per minute 3. Temperature of heating rollers – 15 0 ͦ c

DRYING RANGE:  Manufacturer: yammuna textiles machinery Specifications:

55

1. Total number of drums – 20 2. Number of Teflon coated drums – 10 3. Speed of the machine – 50 metre per minute ( can be controlled according to the requirement) 4. Pressure of the steam in the drum – 1.5 to 4 kg per cm sq. 5. Mangle pressure – 2.5 to 5 kg. The fabric is passed through the soap solution in tank one which washes the fabric. Then it is passed through a padding mangle which squeezes the water out of the fabric , after that fabric is passed through 1st set of Teflon coated rollers where 75% of the drying takes place. After that the fabric passes through the 2nd set of stainless steel roller where the fabric is completely dried out and a certain level of shine also comes to the fabric.

PROCESS FLOW CHART FOR FIBRE DYED FABRIC (POLYESTER VISCOSE) GREY FABRIC  GREY SCOURING  DRYING  HEAT SET  SINGENING  DECATISING  FINISHING FOLDING PROCESS FLOW CHART FOR PIECE DYED (POLYESTER VISCOSE) GREY SCOURING  ROPE OPENING(IF REQD.)  DRYING  HEAT SET  POLYESTER DYEING  DRYING  SINGEING  VISCOSE DYEING  DRYING  DECATISING  FINISHING  FOLDING PROCESS FLOW CHART FOR POLYESTER WOOL AND WOOL WORSTED FABRICS (FIBRE DYED) GREY FABRIC  HEAT SET  SINGEING  SCOURING  HYDRO EXTRACTION  DRYING / CHECKING  SHEARING  MECHANICAL FINISH  FOLDING PROCESS FLOW CHART FOR POLYESTER WOOL FABRIC (PIECE DYED) GREY FABRIC  SCOURING  DRYING  HEAT SET  DYEING  HYDRO EXTRACTION  DRYING & CHECKING  SINGEING  SCOURING  HYDRO EXTRACTION  DRYING & CHECKING  SHEARING  MECHANICAL FINISH  FOLDING TOPS & FIBRE DYEING DEPARTMENT Raw material godown: Here the fibres, tops(slivers) & yarns are stored. Raw material is stored with its proper detail.

56

Fibres (supplied from spiinning raw material section)

Raw Material

tops (supplied from spinning section/exported) yarns (supplied from spinning section/exported)

DYEING ROOM: Spring convertor: Here the cones of yarns are converted into the spring (which is suitable for the carrier of yarns in dyeing). HT/HP DYEING MACHINE: HT/HP dyeing machine is used for following processes: 

Fibre Dyeing



Tops Dyeing



Yarn dyeing.



Wool Scouring.

The machine has specific carriers for each of the above mentioned dyeing processes. Dyeing carriers are classified into 3 sections according to their weights: 

1 kg, 1.5 kg and 2kg carriers are used for fibre and tops dyeing depending upon the requirement of the quantity to be dyed.

Tops are loaded in the carrier with the help of pressing machine and spindles while yarns and fibres are loaded and compressed manually in the specified carrier. Then the carriers are placed into the dyeing machine (with the help of electronic carriers – which hangs the carrier and carry it to the vessel and place it into the vessel) and water is circulated in the dyeing chamber. The water is

57

heated with the help of steam coils provided at the bottom of the dyeing machine chamber. When the temperature is raised to 60 ͦ c the dye is added in the chamber (along with acetic acid, leveller and water softeners) and the temperature is gradually raised according to the specified requirements. The ph of dye bath is maintained at 4.5-5 during the dyeing process. 

Temperature for wool: 94 ͦ c



Temperature for polyester: 135 ͦ c

Requirements for HT/HP dyeing: 

Total time consumed for dyeing medium and light shades: 1.45 hours.



Total time consumed for dyeing heavy shades: 2 hours.



Softener used for dyeing: Metashear.

The dyed materials are unloaded, with the help of electronic controlled loading/ unloading device, from the vessel. Then the dyed material goes for the drying. 

RF Drier for fibres.



Tumble Drier (hydro extractor) & Hot Air Drier for tops and yarns.

The dyed fibres/tops/yarns are packaged and sent to the concerned departments as per the specified requirements. Technical features of HT/HP dyeing machine: 

Uniform dyeing



Low running cost



Reversible pump



Injector pump



Low ML Ratio 1:3



Fully automatic operation

DRIERS: 

Radio Frequency Dryer

Advantages

58



For those applications that require uniform heating and precise temperature control RF offers many advantages over conventional drying methods.



Uniform heating through entire thickness



2 to 20 times faster than conventional drying methods



Energy efficient



Uniform moisture profiling



Low maintenance

PROCESS FLOWCHART FOR POLYESTER TOPS POLYESTER TOPS  REBALLING & CENTRE PULLING  PRESSING  DYEING  HYDRO EXTRACTION  RF DRYING  PACKING  DISPATCH PROCESS FLOW CHART FOR POLYESTER FIBRE POLYESTER FIBRE  PRESSING  DYEING FINISHING  HYDRO EXTRACTION  RF DRYING  OPENING OF FIBRE  PACKING  DISPATCH PROCESS FLOW CHART FOR WOOL TOPS: WOOL TOPS  REBALLING & CENTRE PULL  PRESSING  SCOURING  DYEING FINISHING  HYDRO EXTRACTION  RF DRYING  PACKING  DISPATCH MARKETING Process flow for marketing section: Appointment of Agent  Contract Review  Production Advice and Co-ordination  Inspection and Grading  Warehouse and Dispatch of the finished Fabric Final Inspection and Grading: The purpose is to ensure the customer’s satisfaction according to their specification. Inspection Activities 1. Information of the Grey Fabric. 2. Information of the Finish fabric. 3. One piece of the random lot is taken and checked thoroughly. 4. Ensuring work instruction. a) If accepted, sent to the Grading department.

59

b) If not accepted, the concerned department head is consulted. c) The retreatment is done and is then sent for the inspection department. Grading 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.

After inspection delivery challan is issued for the fabric. Packing material, screen, lot number is decided. Grading instruction is issued. A sample of 4.5 metre is issued. Than is prepared Weighting and stickering is done.

Grading system for synthetic fibres:          

Lump – suiting and shirting from 1.5 metre and above. Fresh – suiting length form 7.20 metre and above, shirting length from 8.0 metre and above. B – lump with minor defects SL – suiting length from 2.4 metre to 7.1 metre, shirting length from 4.0 metre to 7.8 metre. TL/SST – 1.2/1.3 metre SP/SST – 2.25/2.4 metre TL 2 – 95 to 114 centimetre FENT – 45 to 94 centimetre Rags – 25 to 44 centimetre Chindies or wastage – below 25 centimetre

Grading system for woollens:         

Fresh – 8.40 metre and above with no defects. B – 8.40 metre and above with minor defects. SLF I – 6 metre to 8.39 metre. SLF II – 1.2/1.3 metre. Second – 1.20 metre or above with defect TL 2 – 95 to 114 centimetre FENT – 45 to 94 centimetre Rags – 25 to 44 centimetre Chindies or wastage – below 25 centimetre

60

Dispatch The department is concerned with the dispatch of the fabric to the consumers according to their demands. 1. Finished fabric is received from the folding department. 2. The fabric is checked for details through the challans for details according to the production instruction. 3. The goods are packed in cartons according to the packing instructions specified. 4. The details of the packed goods are submitted to the excise department for clearance. 5. The balance stock is kept in the racks and the details are entered in the stock reports. 6. The finished fabrics are dispatched. Customer communication process: 1. Communication is received from the customer regarding requirement of product, delivery and post delivery activities and the record is maintained. 2. The communication regarding each contract and order is maintained with the customer. 3. Feedback is obtained and record is maintained. Handling of customer’s complaints: 1. Complaints are received from the market. 2. Complaints are sent to marketing manager, sales manager, field staff and is registered. 3. Nature of the complaint is analyzed. 4. The complaints are discussed with the dealers. 5. The complaints are reviewed and discussed with the concerned field staff which yields two results: a. The complaint is genuine, if the complaint is genuine following procedure is followed. 1. Settle the claim on commercial basis like rebates. 2. The concerned department is informed. 3. The corrective action is initiated. 4. The concerned department is informed to prevent the occurrence of the same defect in future. b. The complaint is not genuine, if the complaint is not genuine following procedure is followed. 1. The agent dealer is informed. 2. The defective sample is received along with the nature of the complaint.

61

3. The sample is analysed and checked 4. The complaint is informed about the result of the analysis. EXPORT DEPARTMENT: BSL Export Department deals with the sales in the foreign countries. There are five export officers who deals with the agents or the customers directly for the export of the suitings and shirtings. BSL exports its finished products in approximately 55 countries. The major regions in the world where BSL exports are the Latin America ( Peru, Equador, Chile, etc), Middle East (Egypt, Saudi Arabia), South Asia (Vietnam, Thailand, Indonesia) and Europe (Spain, Germany). It has been in the export business since 1987-88. The export officers travel in various exhibitions and fairs to identify the potential buyers and agents. Tex World which are held in Paris, France twice a year( February and September ) is considered to be the Mecca for exhibition for textiles. The department need an irrevocable letter of credit for the order placement. In case of the risk, e.g. Export in African Countries, BSL gets the deposit of the part of the money in advance. For the new customers, BSL sends some sample for their approval. 75-90 days lead time is required for the export of Fibre dyed fabric and 10 days lead time is required for the export of Piece dyed fabric. Shipment is done from the Mumbai Office of BSL at Nariman Point. Two types of shipment is doneLoose Load Container(LLC) and Full Load Container(FLC). BSL has around 250 companies and retail buyers around the world for e.g. HAGER (U.S.A), JC PENNY (U.S.A) and C&A (Germany). The Export Department accounts for about 60% of the annual turnover of the company which is around 250 crores.

62

BIBLIOGRAPHY    





Special thanks to the team of BSL Ltd. Who were very cooperative with us. http://www.bslltd.com/ http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/ https://www.google.co.in/search?biw=1536&bih=710&tbm=isch&sa=1&ei=YF3W7yNGZG8rQHdnJ6wAw&q=vortex+spinning&oq=vortex+spinning&gs_l=img.3..0l2j0i5 i30k1j0i8i30k1l3j0i24k1l4.3320.5982.0.6474.9.8.1.0.0.0.295.1080.1j3j2.6.0....0...1c.1.64.i mg..2.6.788...0i7i30k1j0i8i7i30k1.0.pHjquJsR3HI https://www.google.co.in/search?biw=1536&bih=710&tbm=isch&sa=1&ei=auF3W9i5Job d9QOZ25LACw&q=drop+wires&oq=drop+wires&gs_l=img.3..0j0i8i30k1j0i24k1.16512.211 79.0.21660.25.16.0.0.0.0.337.1806.1j11j0j1.13.0....0...1c.1.64.img..15.10.1479.0..0i67k1j0 i5i30k1j35i39k1.0.fWAyARpFfZk#imgrc=HmvKpGPo-CVOAM: https://www.google.co.in/search?biw=1536&bih=710&tbm=isch&sa=1&ei=geF3W47vAs _0rQGi7regCA&q=weavers+knot&oq=weavers+knot&gs_l=img.3..35i39k1j0l3j0i24k1l4.19 030.23410.0.23616.22.17.0.0.0.0.231.1695.4j8j1.13.0....0...1c.1.64.img..11.11.1500.0..0i6 7k1j0i10k1j0i5i30k1j0i8i30k1.0.-tRbNCHQA88