Bread

IT'S THE ULTIMATE BAKERS CHALLENGE, AND EVERYEXPERIENCEDBREADMAKER HAS A SPECIALTECHNIQUE.YETALLIT TAKES IS ONE SIMPLE METHOD TO TURN OUT /"r/'I peryecr toaves oFeveu) snape.

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MADE By gexp There's an ideal loaf for every occasion. Baguettes ctnd ciabatta are companions to casua.l meals. Large, round boules are perfect for toast and sandwiches. Rol/s provide a diminutive option anytime.

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MakingSourown

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satisfaction,like that o{ crafting your own pottery or building your own house.A baker falls somewherebetween a sculptor and an architect,responsiblefor the outward form of a ioaf as well as its internal structure. Bread making is a dynamic art, bringing together ingredients that react chemicaliy, and then harnessing the outcome to form a loa{with a crisp crust and a luxurious,chewy crumb. The key processis moistening and working the floua which createsan elastienetwork of gluten.Yeastcells in the damp starterproducecarbon dioxide.The expandinggas forms chambers as the supple dough rises,inflating it and producing the airy springy bread we expect. By kneading

the dough and then shaping it just so, the baker controls the ai.ri.ness and chewinessof the resulting loaves. Bread is a living medium. Flour type, kitchen humidity, and variations in oven temperature ail affect the outcome. But a proper loaf doesn't require fancy equipment, only the basic method presentedhere,which provides a foundation and relieves the baker of having to consider the complex processesat play. More than just science,bread baking is an artisanal craft that anyone can learn with time and a littie patience.With practice, you might end up adapting the technique slightly to suit your preferences.Start by mastering these simple steps and you'll find it easy-and particularly satisfying-to achieve perfection.

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1. Mix flour, a pinch of yeast, and water to form a starter. Cover, and let rest at cool room remperature until bubbling, 12 ro t5 hours. 2. Combine remaining flour, yeast. enr]

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Let rest for 20 minutes. 3. Turn dough onto an unfloured S n r i nr rLr ^l] o c

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4. Gather dough, li.fting it above the surface.Hold one end of dough and cast the other end in front of \/^rr

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6. Continue to knead until smooth, s u n n l p a n d e l c s t i eR t n t o m i n u t e s . Form into a ball.

7. Place dough in a lightly oiled bowl, cover, and let rise at cool room temperature for 45 minutes. 8. Gently turn dough onto lightly f l o u r e d s u r f a c e .D o n o t p u n c h dough to deflate: it will deflate srrf{ieientlv

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g. Fold the dough into thirds, as you would a business letter, then fold in hal{ crosswise. Return to bowl, cover, and let rise at cool r n n m t e m n p r a t r r r er : n r i Li t h a s almost doubled, at least 75 minutes. P go , u dn Lr rf icar nr Lr .r u

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10. Divide dough into portions (three if making baguettes:two if making ciabatta, boules, or rolls). Let rest, covered, for 2o minutes. 11.Gently spread each portion ^f vr

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tz. Fold dough into thirds again, pressing the seams with your fingers. (Folding gives the dough internal structure, which ensures it will rise upward, not outward.) To shape into baguettes, boules, rolls, or ciabatta, see instructlons ^-

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T i } " fH L E S SC L A S S i C The definittve French loaf, the baguette is so common it is often referred fo os pain ordinarre, or L,.-)

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L Working with one portion of l^"^L

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Dough," page 106), fold it in half lengthwise to form a tight, narrow log. Gently press edges with lightly floured {ingertips ro seal. 2. Using your palms, roil the dough on the work surface until it's about 16 inches long, rolling more firmly at the ends to create ^ t"^^"^.1

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3. Place loaves,seam side down, on a floured towel, folding the towel between them to prevent the loaves from sticking to one another. Let rise at cool room temperature until loaves have almost doubled,4o to 50 minutes. Using the tip of a 1 ^ ^ ^ / ^ - a r o a u r Lu r dru^E /r, ,^ \ D^l l a s ht h e lorrrE \ul

surface of each loaf a few times. FRENCH BREAD Benedththe crisp, brittle crust of a baguette is an airy crumb and a rich, nutty flavor, making it the perfect dccompaniment to any meal-or, in the case of breakfast, the perfeet foundation.

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! / " - F Ti D n r ! \ ! : r F n The boule is one of Europe'sgreof est and most tradi.tional forms o{ bread. It is often made with rye or other whole-grain flours but aLsoworks well as a rusti.cwhite made {rom French dough. r. Working with one portion of dough at a time (see "Making D o u g h , " p a g e 1 0 6 ) ,r o l l u p d o u g h tightly, starting at one short end. Gather edges, and gently pull and tuck them underneath the dough to create a round shape.pinching them to seal. 2. Place dough on the work surface. Cup hands around dough, and rotate it in circles until a smonth taut ball forms. 3. Place dough, smooth side down, in a colander lined with a generously floured towel. Let rise, cov ered, at cooi room temperature until it has almost doubled +o to 50 minutes. Using the tip of a lame (or a razor blade), slash the surface of each boule. forming an X. M U L T I G R A I N B R E A DA T o b u s I bread with a firm crust and a dense, moist crumb, this loaf has a distinct rye flavor and is particularly good when toosted.

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l,olrtlv rlorred rinopnins ro seal. 's TT s i r o a d o r r c l ^ s " r a n e . . r a c h e f L < r i f pc r r t i r t o e i o h f n i e c e s . ? G e t l - r o r o- .-Jr^- o- " ^- f- o_ ^* .-1. .t p t e c e . rrd cerrlv n':'l crd trrckthem unde.rperh do rah to.rpere a round shane r'nchi-o

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do"nh or s ''fa"o f ,rn one hand ^ .J^U, ,u^lJr ,U.u. U t ^u, ,g^ltr^,a ^ ^l ltu l. U ^ rl ^a t e l i 1 n d circles to form a smooth, taut roli. 3. Let rise, covered, at cool room i e - r ' r n e . a l - l r cl t r t i ' : l h a s a l m o s r doubled, about 30 minutes. Use tho tin of a lamc lnr ^ .^"^. hl^.lo\ to slash the surface of each roll. F R E N c H B R E A DD i m i n u t i v e r o l l s made from French dough convey a more formal air than a baguette, mdking them ideal for entertaining. Any that remain make a delicious breakfast the next ddy, sldthered with butter and drizzled with honey.

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l i n 1 r t l . -f l n r - p d f i n n e r i : n s t o s e a l . Iisi-o a d.r:oh scraner or a chef's l r r i f e e r r -i r t n e i e h t n i c 6 6 g . 2 G r t h p r o_.^] a- o_ "- ^- f- o- _^ "- 1 -l plece. rrd oentlv null and trrckthem und e . r e a t l - d o r : c r hr o c r e a r e a r o u n d shane.ni:cLiro -o soal.Place r ^ . . * L u^r -l ^D u. r.r-a fL ^c .^ ^ ^u u. P - o n e h a n d

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circles to form a smooth, taut roll. 3. Let rise, covered, at cool room l c m n c r A t r r r er r r i ' l i t h a s a i m o s t doubled, about 30 minutes. Use -1"^ .i^ ^f L r r c L r P u i o" lr .o- l-r i c

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to slash the surface of each roll. F R E N c H B R E A DD i m i n u t i v e r o l l s made from French dough convey a more formal air than a baguette, making them ideal for entertaining. Any that remain make a delicious breakfast the next day, slatheredwith butter and drizzled with honey.

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WHAT'S IN A NAME? Ciabatta comes fram the ltalian word {or "slipper," owing to its flat, elongated form and sltght sag in the middle. The name per. tatns not just to the shape,but to the particular dough. 1. Place each portion of dough (see "Making Dough," page ro6) on a lightly floured towel, seam side down. Let rise at cool room temperature until it has almost doubled,40 to 50 minutes. 2. Transfer dough to a parchmentlined baking sheet. Working with one portion of dough at a time, gently stretch it to a 4-by-to-inch rectangle. Dimple entire surface with lightly floured fingers. 3. Repeat stretching and dimpling with the remaining dough. Bake immediately. cIABATTA Olive oil gives this loa.f its pleasant chewiness-plus a longer shelf life than most home-baked breads. Slice if into thin strips fo serve ot the table, or eut it in ha.If Iengthwise for sandwiches, S E ER E C I P E S SECTION S E E G U I D EF O RS O U R C E S CREATED B Y S H I R AB O C A R A , BBEY K U S T E R - P R O K E LALN, D P A M E L Ai / O R R I S

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