Blog Gilgit

North
on
Two
Wheels
 
 Area:
 Northern
 Pakistan
 ‐
 Islamabad,
 Peshawar,
 Kohat,
 Dir,
 Kelash,
 Chitral,
 Garam
 Chashma,
Teru,
Shandur,
Yaseen,
Gilgit,
Hunza
 
 Travel
Month:
 
 July
1992
 
 Country:
 
 Pakistan
 
 Total
Days:
 
 13
days
 
 Attractions:
 
 Mountains,
 Biking,
 Camping,
 High
 Altitude
 Driving
 on
 a
 100cc
 motor
 bike,
 Trekking/Hiking
 
 Total
Distance
Covered:
 
 3000
Kilometers
including
500
kilometers
jeep
able
track
 
 Travelogue:
 
 DAY1


This
trip
was
a
long
awaited
one
and
as
a
childhood
dream
come
true.
I've
driven
 into
the
wild
and
far
away
places
with
larger
and
smaller
groups
but
always
have
 enjoyed
more
on
trips
when
the
group
was
smaller
or
I
was
by
myself.
This
was
 it
with
only
one
friend
with
me,
we
ventured
out
on
a
long
haul
journey
into
the
 mountains
 of
 upper
 Northern
 Areas
 of
 Pakistan.
 Myself
 and
 Shaukat
 my
 old
 tested
friend.
I
have
a
lot
of
respect
for
this
guy
for
his
patience,
team
work
and
 bravery.
Usually
for
our
trips
we
leave
in
the
evenings
and
stay
at
one
of
our
old
 friends
Waseem
in
Gujrat
just
two
hours
drive
from
Lahore.
Waseem
is
happily
 living
with
his
family
in
Milton
Keynes‐UK
these
days.
So
for
this
trip
we
started
 off
in
the
same
manner.
 
 Before
 setting
 off
 it
 will
 not
 be
 justified
 if
 I'll
 not
 mention
 the
 preparations
 for
 the
trip.
For
our
ride
we
prepared
Shaukat's
Yamaha
100cc
motor
bike
for
this
 trip
and
collected
as
many
tools
and
spares
as
we
could
fit
on
it
including
us
and
 our
one
bag.
Our
kit
with
spares
was
about
25
kg
and
our
bag
carrying
a
couple
 of
Ts
and
one
extra
trouser,
a
jacket
and
a
raincoat
for
each
one
of
us.
The
bag
 was
separated
from
the
middle
and
we
both
used
our
own
compartments
to
put
 our
 stuff.
 As
 an
 agreement
 we
 never
 kept
 any
 dirty
 clothing
 including
 socks,
 underwear
etc.
in
the
bag
at
any
time.
And
as
a
rule
we
always
washed
our
dirty
 stuff
before
sleeping
each
night.
Maps
and
distances
were
calculated
to
make
our
 milestones,
 but
 we
 wanted
 to
 keep
 our
 trip
 fexible
 enough
 to
 accomdate
 any
 runtime
changes
into
trip.
The
opinion
of
others
was
that
this
is
a
crazy
trip
and
 one
shouldnt
attempt
it
just
on
one
bike.
 
 In
the
plains
we
took
turns
for
driving
but
in
the
mountains
always
I
drove
as
in
 all
 other
trips
 we
 had
 and
 Shaukat
sat
behind
 me.
 This
 setup
 worked
 for
years
 and
we
did
some
amazing
trips
together
including
hiking,
biking,
off‐roading
and
 what
not.
Each
trip
is
imprinted
in
my
memory
and
that
is
the
reason
I'm
able
to
 pull
 the
 details
 out
 to
 write
 this
 blog
 to
 share
 the
 experiences
 that
 we
 had,
 so
 that
other
people
will
be
encouraged
to
do
such
trips..
 
 We
set
off
in
the
evening
despite
bad
weather
and
were
met
by
our
first
showers
 just
after
30
minutes
into
the
drive.
It
was
summer
so
we
enjoyed
the
rain
and
 forgot
the
risk
of
driving
in
slippery
conditions.
We
kept
going
crossing
through
 Mureedkay,
Kamonkee,
AimanAbad,
Gujranwala,
WazirAbad
and
finally
reached
 Gujrat
 after
 two
 and
 a
 half
 hours
 of
 driving.
 This
 was
 our
 first
 stop.
 Waseem's
 mother
as
usual
had
cooked
some
great
food
for
us
and
we
ate
it
like
anything.
 This
is
from
where
we
had
set
off
for
many
of
our
previous
trips
and
we
left
for
 the
next
leg
at
5am
next
morning.
 
 DAY2
 It
is
a
nice
drive
through
Pothohar
and
you
go
through
many
small
and
medium
 sized
towns
before
reaching
the
capital
of
Pakistan
‐
Islamabad.
Here
we
had
a


short
 stop
 over
 at
 one
 of
 my
 friends
 Anwar
 and
 then
 continued
 our
 journey
 towards
Peshawar
the
capital
of
the
NWFP.
Peshawar
is
a
cultural
hub
of
NWFP
 and
 a
 very
 historical
 city.
 It
 is
 discussed
 in
 memoirs
 of
 famous
 emperors
 including
 Mughal
 Empire
 founder
 Naseer
 Uddin
 Baber.
 Due
 to
 its
 strategical
 location
it
carries
important
value
from
military
stand
point.
It
is
at
the
edge
of
 famous
 Khyber
 Pass
 the
 main
 route
 into
 Afghanistan
 and
 Central
 Asia.
 Main
 population
 in
 this
 city
 is
 Pukhtoon
 and
 are
 known
 for
 their
 hospitality
 and
 enmity
 at
 the
 same
 time.
 These
 people
 have
 been
 living
 independent
 for
 centuries
 and
 there
 are
 many
 areas
 in
 NWFP
 not
 governed
 by
 police
 or
 civil
 government
 rather
 by
 the
 tribes
 of
 the
 area.
 They
 have
 their
 own
 Jirga
 (court)
 system
to
resolve
issues.
 
 Peshawar
 is
 in
 the
 proximity
 of
 such
 areas
 where
 there
 is
 only
 political
 agents
 assigned
 by
 the
 Federal
 Govt.
 of
 Pakistan.
 You
 could
 find
 all
 sorts
 of
 smuggled
 goods
in
this
city
from
pins
to
Russian
A/Cs,
from
.22
guns
to
Rocket
Launchers.
 Derra
 Adam
 Khel
 is
 the
 closest
 market
 where
 they
 sell
 Arms
 of
 all
 sorts
 and
 could
deliver
to
your
home
anywhere
in
Pakistan
by
paying
some
extra
money.
 Very
tricky
place
and
one
has
to
know
what
he/she
is
getting
into.
 
 My
uncle
who
was
an
aircraft
engineer
had
a
posting
here
so
we
planned
to
stay
 with
 him.
 This
 was
 our
 first
 excursion
 stop.
 We
 reached
 Peshawar
 airport
 safe
 and
 sound
 to
 find
 our
 uncle.
 He
 drove
 us
 to
 his
 apartment
 for
 some
 rest.
 And
 then
we
started
exploring
the
city
including
Kissa
Khawani
Bazar
and
some
other
 old
bazars.
I
always
eat
boiled
corn
when
I
visit
Peshawar
so
we
did
eat
that
this
 time
as
well.
Then
we
bought
dinner
including
famous
chappal
kababs
and
came
 back
to
call
it
a
day.
 
 It
takes
about
3
hours
from
Gujrat
to
Islamabad
and
from
Islamabad
to
Peshawar
 it
another
2.5
hours.
I'm
mentioning
the
distance
in
hours
term
as
the
kilometers
 cannot
be
translated
properly
into
time
due
to
the
conditions
of
the
roads,
traffic
 etc..
Therefore
with
breaks
on
the
way
it
took
us
about
7‐8
hours
from
Gujrat
to
 Peshawar.
 
 Shaukat
revealed
that
he
didn't
know
how
to
wash
cloths
so
I
had
to
take
on
this
 task
and
I
did
it
happily
while
providing
training
to
him.
Honestly
I
learned
the
 trade
 while
 teaching
 it.
 And
 from
 next
 day
 he
 was
 a
 master
 in
 this
 trade.
 He
 would
 wash
 cloths
 on
 the
 stream
 and
 I'll
 rinse
 them
 before
 hanging
 them
 for
 drying.
 The
 night
 approached
 and
 the
 second
 day
 passed
 without
 any
 incident
 and
we
still
got
to
sleep
in
comfortable
and
luxurous
beds.
 
 DAY3


Kohat
 is
 an
 important
 garrison
 town
 with
 several
 important
 military
 installations.
It
is
also
popular
because
anyone
who
plans
to
join
the
army
has
to
 go
for
a
4
days
tests
that
includes
physical
as
well
as
theoretical,
therefore
this
 town
has
a
significant
value
for
the
youngsters
as
well
as
the
Army.
A
few
years
 ago
I
visited
this
town
for
similar
reasons
and
cannot
forget
that
journey
and
I
 may
 cover
 it
 in
 another
 topic.
 For
 reaching
 Kohat
 one
 has
 to
 go
 through
 Dera
 Adam
Khel
‐
Arms
Market
situated
in
the
Azad
Ilaka
(territory
not
governed
by
 the
 government
 rather
 a
 political
 agent
 represents
 the
 federal
 government
 in
 this
area).
 
 The
road
from
Peshawar
goes
through
different
farm
house
setting
into
the
dry
 mountains
and
then
dropping
into
the
valley
to
reach
Kohat.
The
drive
is
nice
but
 creepy
 due
 to
 the
 road
 going
 through
 Azad
 Ilace.
 My
 father
 has
 been
 a
 major
 source
of
encouragment
for
all
my
trip
and
has
seen
almost
all
parts
of
Pakistan
 and
always
provided
great
help
for
us
to
plan
the
trips.
He
always
cautioned
us
 while
crossing
such
areas
and
advised
not
to
stay
longer
there.
 
 We
 had
 a
 few
 stops
 for
 sightseeing
 and
 finally
 made
 it
 to
 Kohat
 in
 a
 couple
 of
 hours.
One
of
my
school
friends
who
works
for
Pakistan
Army
was
stationed
in
 Kohat
at
the
time
of
the
visit,
so
we
got
another
free
night
in
nice
beds.
We
were
 served
with
nice
Chicken
Karhahi
and
Daal
with
freshly
baked
roti
in
the
room
 because
we
could
not
dress
ourselves
according
to
the
Army
protocols
to
qualify
 for
sitting
in
the
Officers
Mess
for
diner.
What
the
heck!
we
were
on
a
camping
 trip
with
two
jeans
and
two
Ts.
So
for
us
the
good
food
was
enough
luxury.
We
 drove
in
the
city
and
stopped
for
Maghrib
prayer
at
a
small
mosque.
It
was
a
very
 hot
day.
The
Masjid
was
washed
up
with
cold
water
for
the
people
to
come
and
 pray.
 This
 experience
 was
 amazing
 after
 such
 a
 long
 a
 hectic
 drive.
 It
 was
 extremely
peaceful.
 
 We
had
a
chat
session
with
our
friend
late
into
the
night
before
calling
it
a
day.
 We
had
a
lot
to
catch
up
because
I
met
him
after
a
few
years
and
had
hardly
got
 in
touch
with
him
due
to
his
frequent
movements
in
the
Army
during
that
period.
 He
 really
 looked
 after
 us
 that
 night.
 But
 we
 didn't
 sleep
 before
 washing
 our
 cloths
for
that
day
:‐(
 
 So
 far
 whoever
 got
 to
 know
 that
 we
 are
 traveling
 to
 upper
 Chitral
 and
 Gilgit
 Valleys
 were
 shocked
 with
 this
 news
 because
 they
 had
 never
 seen
 any
 one
 attempting
it
on
one
bike
and
the
combination
of
camping
and
biking
was
very
 unique
for
them.
Even
as
of
today
there
are
a
very
few
people
who
may
attempt
 the
 same
 combination.
 We
 were
 discouraged
 by
 many
 by
 telling
 scary
 things
 about
 the
 journey
 and
 the
 dangers
 we
 might
 face.
 But
 we
 were
 determined
 to
 complete
it.
 


The
real
adventure
started
from
the
next
day.
 
 DAY4
 
 We
 got
 up
 at
 4am
 and
 were
 already
 packing
 our
 bike
 to
 start
 the
 first
 real
 exciting
part
of
the
journey
in
which
we
had
to
cross
the
famous
Lowari
Pass
at
 10500
ft
above
sea
level.
Our
next
stop
was
Kalash
(Kafiristan).
For
making
it
to
 the
 destination
 we
 had
 to
 traverse
 back
 to
 Peshawar
 and
 by
 pass
 it
 towards
 Islamabad
 before
 turning
 towards
 Mardan.
 From
 here
 one
 has
 to
 climb
 mountains
towards
Swat
Valley
and
turn
left
towards
Dir
at
Chekderra.
Road
is
 not
bad
before
Dir
but
it
is
a
single
lane
road
slowly
gaining
altitude,
from
Dir
it
 suddenly
winds
up
to
reach
Windy
Lowari
Pass.
There
has
been
a
tunnel
under
 construction
for
the
last
many
years
but
was
not
completed
at
the
time
of
travel.
 This
 Pass
 closes
 during
 the
 winter
 season
 making
 this
 area
 only
 accessible
 by
 Air.
 There
 is
 a
 small
 Airport
 at
 Chitral
 but
 flights
 could
 only
 land
 weather
 permitting.
 Once
 we
 had
 to
 turn
 back
 from
 Chitral
 due
 to
 weather
 conditions
 deteriorated
 at
 the
 last
 minute
 and
 once
 we
 made
 it
 in
 the
 sunny
 weather.
 Journey
from
Peshawar
to
Chitral
takes
about
14
hours
again
depending
on
the
 weather
 and
 road
 conditions.
 If
 weather
 is
 bad
 or
 there
 are
 land
 slides
 on
 the
 way
then
add
several
more
hours.
Lowari
Pass
is
a
bottle
neck
as
there
are
a
lot
 land
slides
on
either
side
of
it
and
rain
and
snow
also
play
very
important
role
in
 closing
it.
One
could
be
stranded
for
days
due
to
such
hazards,
but
that
is
all
part
 of
the
package
when
you
visit
such
area.
 
 It
would
be
a
long
day
for
us
and
as
soon
as
we
were
entering
into
Peshawar
we
 got
to
know
that
most
of
the
roads
were
closed
due
to
some
protests
in
the
city
 and
 Police
 was
 not
 allowing
 anyone
 to
 enter
 those
 roads.
 We
 had
 to
 take
 directions
from
locals
to
by
pass
this
problem,
thanks
to
our
two
wheeler
which
 could
 go
 in
 smaller
 streets
 and
 even
 cross
 fields
 on
 small
 mud
 lanes
 means
 viturally
it
could
go
anywhere.
Had
it
been
a
car
it
would
have
been
impossible
to
 continue
the
journey
that
day.
But
these
negotiations
added
to
the
time
we
were
 suppose
 to
 spend
 as
 per
 the
 plan.
 Anyhow
 the
 travel
 continued
 and
 we
 safely
 crossed
some
tricky
areas
(Azad
Ilaca)
of
NWFP.
We
realized
that
it
was
not
only
 Peshawar
 where
 rallies
 were
 taking
 place
 rather
 all
 over
 the
 province
 as
 we
 were
 faced
 by
 similar
 problems
 on
 the
 way
 and
 had
 to
 negotiate
 with
 either
 authorities
or
locals
to
let
us
pass
through
the
city
or
a
town
coming
our
way
at
 our
own
risk.
We
were
very
late
to
make
it
to
our
destination
that
day,
but
it
was
 least
of
our
worries
as
our
program
was
flexible
enough
to
add
another
night
to
 the
 itinerary.
 The
 only
 issue
 that
 we
 were
 facing
 was
 our
 safety
 and
 our
 bike's
 safety.
 The
 protesters
 were
 driving
 crazily
 on
 the
 roads
 without
 paying
 much
 attention
 to
 anyone's
 safety.
 We
 got
 almost
 hit
 a
 few
 times
 by
 such
 nasty
 characters
 therefore
 had
 to
 take
 frequent
 stops
 when
 we
 saw
 a
 group
 coming
 towards
us
on
the
road.
At
a
couple
of
places
we
had
to
join
them
to
avoid
their
 wreath.
 It
 was
 a
 nerve‐racking
 day
 for
 us,
 and
 made
 us
 realize
 what
 could
 happen
when
masses
decides
to
come
on
the
roads.
However
when
we
stopped


at
 places
 or
 talked
 to
 the
 natives,
 we
 found
 them
 extremely
 helpful
 and
 they
 looked
 upon
 us
 with
 praise.
 They
 appreciated
 the
 fact
 that
 some
 Pakistani
 youngsters
 attempting
 such
 a
 trip
 in
 their
 areas.
 Usually
 what
 they
 see
 are
 foreigners
doing
all
sort
of
hiking,
camping,
trekking,
biking
and
what
not
up
in
 the
 northern
 areas
 but
 hardly
 see
 people
 from
 the
 plains
 of
 Pakistan
 doing
 something
different.
 
 We
made
to
Dir
without
any
major
incident
despite
a
few
near
miss
hit
attempts.
 Protests
 time
 was
 over
 as
 we
 were
 approaching
 late
 afternoon,
 therefore
 we
 decided
to
continue
our
journey
and
at
least
cross
the
Lowari
Top.
The
road
was
 very
 steep
 going
 towards
 Lowari
 and
 almost
 dirt
 road.
 Our
 100
 cc
 bike
 had
 to
 put
 in
 some
 efforts
 to
 keep
 going.
 Lowari
 Top
 is
 always
 very
 windy
 due
 to
 its
 location
and
position,
it
attaches
Chitral
to
the
rest
of
the
country.
As
expected
it
 was
very
windy,
the
gusts
were
trying
to
take
us
away
with
them.
We
had
a
short
 stop
 for
 photography
 and
 meanwhile
 it
 started
 raining.
 This
 trek
 becomes
 terribly
 dangerous
 in
 or
 after
 rain
 because
 of
 the
 dirt
 becoming
 mud
 and
 very
 slippery.
The
steepness
makes
it
even
worst.
It
is
not
recommended
to
drive
in
 such
 conditions
 at
 all.
 But
 we
 had
 no
 choice
 as
 we
 didn't
 have
 the
 liberty
 of
 staying
 under
 roof
 and
 had
 to
 continue
 and
 come
 down
 from
 the
 top
 as
 it
 was
 becoming
extremely
cold
in
the
evening
and
it
was
getting
dark
as
well.
We
had
 already
put
on
our
raincoats
and
we
started
our
descend
into
the
Chitral
Valley
 carefully.
 The
 views
 were
 spectacular
 and
 the
 drive
 was
 extremely
 tricky
 on
 muddy
road
at
an
angle.
It
took
us
a
while
to
reach
down
but
we
made
it
safely
 and
the
rain
stopped
as
soon
as
we
stopped
for
a
break.
It
was
already
dark
and
 daunting.
We
decided
at
this
point
that
we
wont
be
able
to
pitch
our
tent
in
dark
 and
we
should
stay
at
any
driver
hotel
that
comes
first
in
our
way
as
we
didn't
 want
to
drive
further
in
dark.
It
is
not
even
advisable
to
drive
motor
bike
on
such
 roads
at
night
time
because
even
at
day
time
one
has
to
be
vigilant
and
extremely
 careful
driving
in
such
terrain.
 
 Therefore
we
continued
for
some
more
time
and
after
some
time
we
found
one
 roadside
restaurant
and
we
stopped
to
eat
our
first
meal
of
the
day.
We
did
not
 eat
whole
day
as
were
busy
negotiating
with
road
and
the
hazards
it
posed
to
us.
 We
ate
some
gravy
with
bread/roti
because
we
could
not
break
the
meat
cooked
 in
it
that
had
become
hard
elastic.
We
were
very
hungry
so
it
did
not
bother
us
 much.
After
the
dinner
we
asked
the
owner
if
there
was
any
place
to
spend
the
 night
 or
 if
 we
 could
 rent
 two
 Charpaees
 (local
 form
 of
 beds)
 from
 him.
 He
 showed
us
the
same
place
where
we
just
ate
and
told
us
once
all
the
customers
 are
gone
you
could
sleep
there
provided
we'll
have
breakfast
from
his
restaurant
 before
 leaving
 tomorrow
 morning.
 Not
 a
 bad
 deal
 we
 thought
 and
 agreed
 happily.
 It
 was
 an
 Afghani
 restaurant
 and
 they
 usually
 have
 platform
 kind
 of
 sitting
 area
 with
 rugs
 on
 them.
 His
 idea
 sounded
 interesting
 and
 we
 thought
 it
 would
be
comparatively
warmer
area
as
well
due
to
the
kitchen
in
one
corner.
As
 we
had
already
made
up
our
minds
we
had
a
little
walk
to
discuss
our
next
day
 plan.
 


It
 was
 quite
 late
 when
 the
 last
 customer
 left
 our
 bedroom,
 obviously
 it
 was
 smelly,
 dirty
 and
 what
 not.
 We
 laid
 our
 sleeping
 bags
 and
 cleaned
 the
 place
 as
 much
 as
 we
 could
 before
 calling
 it
 a
 day
 and
 quite
 a
 hectic
 one.
 We
 started
 at
 4:30am
and
finished
at
about
7:00pm
making
it
a
almost
a
15
hours
run
on
the
 bike,
which
was
quite
a
bit.
We
were
already
adjusting
to
driving
longer
runs
on
 the
bike
and
the
pain
in
our
buttocks
will
go
away
in
another
day
or
so
because
 we'll
 get
 used
 to
 it.
 The
 terrain
 and
 drive
 becomes
 difficult
 and
 difficult
 in
 the
 days
ahead
due
to
the
rough
and
tough
terrain,
lack
of
road
and
services
etc.
We
 were
all
set
to
face
all
sorts
of
challenges
coming
our
way.
This
was
only
because
 myself
and
Shaukat
had
done
such
trips
before
and
we
make
an
excellent
team
to
 tackle
any
situation.
 
 I
must
hightlight
a
few
things
about
our
small
team
before
going
to
the
next
day.
 We
 are
 exceptionally
 easy
 going
 in
 terms
 of
 our
 eating
 habbits
 and
 in
 terms
 of
 not
 having
 any
 facilities
 of
 any
 kind.
 We
 do
 not
 complain
 and
 adapt
 to
 any
 circumstances
very
easily.
We
trust
each
other
as
we
trust
ourselves.
We
do
not
 get
 stressed
 out.
 We
 have
 stamina
 to
 handle
 difficult
 task
 with
 endurance.
 We
 mix
up
with
the
local
public
whereever
we
go
easily
and
are
accepted
amongst
 them.
And
these
qualities
make
us
an
unmatchable
team.
 
 DAY5
 Where
 we
 were
 sleeping
 was
 a
 public
 place
 in
 a
 drivers
 hotel
 therefore
 had
 to
 wake
up
even
earlier
than
we
thought.
It
was
dark,
cold
and
windy
outside.
The
 morning
was
awesome
with
very
fresh
air
to
breath
and
different
feeling
which
 the
city
folks
cannot
imagine.
Breakfast
was
served
containing
Paratha,
Tea
and
 last
nights
grave
and
this
was
our
payment
for
staying
the
night
in
the
shelter
as
 well.
 We
 left
 as
 we
 finished
 after
saying
 good
 bye
to
 the
 local
 people.
 We
 were
 met
by
a
bad
news
soon
when
we
reached
the
turning
towards
the
Kelash
Valley
 where
we
intended
to
stay
for
3
nights.
We
were
told
that
due
to
the
flash
floods
 all
the
tracks
have
been
vanished
and
the
area
is
not
accessible
by
any
transport
 rather
by
foot
only.
 
 There
 are
 three
 main
 villages
 in
 this
 area
 Bamboreet,
 Rambor
 and
 Bareer.
 The
 inhabitants
still
live
the
way
they
used
to
live
hundreds
of
years
ago.
They
wear
 different
type
of
dresses
and
they
have
preserved
their
culture
by
sticking
to
it.
 These
people
are
considered
to
be
the
descendants
of
Alexander
The
Great.
They
 are
 extremely
 hospitable
 in
 nature
 and
 respect
 the
 visitors
 and
 expect
 it
 vice
 verse.
 The
 travelers
 usually
 do
 not
 respect
 their
 privacy
 and
 try
 to
 peek
 into
 their
lives.
If
asked
they
let
you
visit
their
homes
and
allow
you
to
see
their
day
 to
 day
 activities
 but
 people
 always
 forget
 to
 ask.
 This
 is
 introducing
 change
 in
 behaviors.
 These
 people
 dance
 in
 a
 very
 different
 manner
 and
 people
 from
 all
 over
the
world
come
to
see
this
area
due
to
its
unique
setting
and
culture.
These
 mountains
 touch
 Afghanistan
 at
 the
 back.
 As
 the
 terrain
 is
 much
 difficult
 so
 no


one
 army
 could
 man
 the
 borders
 therefore
 giving
 way
 to
 people
 crossing
 into
 Pakistan
easily
in
search
of
food
and
employment.
 
 Bamboreet
 is
 the
 largest
 of
 these
 small
 Kafir
 settlements.
 It
 is
 situated
 in
 a
 beautiful
 green
 valley
 at
 the
 edge
 of
 a
 river
 of
 white
 water.
 It
 offers
 stunning
 views
of
sky
rocketing
peaks
all
around.
The
lush
greenery
is
just
an
addition
to
 add
 some
 nice
 colors
 into
 the
 sceneries
 offered.
 Anyhow
 I
 thought
 to
 mention
 some
 information
 about
 Kafiristan.
 I
 had
 visited
 this
 area
 in
 details
 a
 couple
 of
 years
ago
while
camping
in
the
area.
 
 We
carried
on
towards
Chitral
with
very
heavy
heart
by
missing
this
opportunity
 of
 visiting
 one
 of
 our
 major
 stops
 in
 the
 journey.
 Chitral
 was
 not
 far
 so
 we
 reached
there
after
some
time.
Chitral
is
the
major
town
in
this
whole
area
and
 there
are
different
tracks
going
towards
different
directions
joining
this
area
to
 the
 rest
 of
 the
 valleys
 in
 Northern
 Pakistan.
 There
 are
 three
 major
 routes
 including
 the
 one
 we
 came
 from
 going
 towards
 Swat
 Valley
 and
 eventually
 reaching
 the
 GT
 road
 to
 either
 go
 towards
 Islamabad
 or
 Peshawar.
 The
 other
 route
 disappears
 in
 the
 mountains
 going
 north‐west
 entering
 into
 Afghanistan
 passing
through
a
picturesque
village
of
Garam
Chashma.
The
third
route
carries
 equal
importance
going
toward
the
Shandur
Top
and
then
snaking
into
the
Gilgit
 valley.
 We
 were
 coming
 from
 one
 route
 and
 planned
 to
 cover
 the
 other
 two
 routes
 in
 detain
 in
 this
 trip.
 I
 had
 not
 done
 the
 third
 leg
 towards
 Gilgit
 before
 therefore
that
was
the
most
exciting
one
for
me.
 
 Chitral
valley
offers
excellent
views
of
the
highest
mountain
of
Hindukush
Range.
 Pakistan
is
very
rich
in
mountains
and
is
gifted
with
3
of
the
top
ten
mountains
in
 the
world.
It
has
the
biggest
concentration
of
peaks
rising
8000
meters
above
sea
 level.
 There
 are
 three
 major
 mountain
 ranges
 in
 Pakistan.
 i)
 The
 Karakoram
 ii)
 The
 Hindukush
 and
ii)
 The
 Himalayas.
 Chitral
 is
situated
 in
the
Hindukush
 and
 the
 Karakorams
 join
 Hindukush
 in
 this
 region.
 Trichmir
 as
 mentioned
 the
 highest
 in
 the
 Hindukush
 is
 standing
 tall
 at
 7708
 meters
 above
 sea
 level.
 Many
 climbers
 attempt
 to
 reach
 the
 top
 every
 summer.
 This
 is
 a
 beautiful
 mountain
 and
there
are
equally
beautiful
another
few
7000ers
around
Trichmir.
 
 We
 roamed
 around
 in
 the
 town
 of
 Chitral.
 In
 my
 last
 trip
 to
 Chitral
 we
 had
 a
 terrible
hot
night
with
bugs
all
around
therefore
I
had
no
intention
of
camping
in
 the
 town
 or
 even
 closer
 to
 the
 city.
 Therefore
 we
 planned
 to
 go
 to
 Garam
 Chashma
instead.
where
there
would
be
cooler
temprature.
 
 Chitral
is
very
famous
for
its
handy
crafts
especially
rugs
made
from
the
sheep
 wool.
The
other
famous
thing
about
this
place
is
Polo,
it
is
home
of
Polo
and
very
 famous
tournaments
take
place
here
in
Chitral
and
at
Shandur
Pass.
Chitral
has


been
 invaders
 route
 and
 have
 been
 invaded
 by
 very
 famous
 people
 including
 Alexander
 The
 Great
 and
 Mongol
 Changez
 Khan.
 This
 is
 the
 reason,
 it
 carries
 great
 historic
 value
 and
 strategic
 position.
 This
 has
 been
 a
 major
 aid
 route
 for
 Afghans
during
the
Soviet‐Afghan
war
in
the
80s.
 
 Well
 after
 exploring
 Chitral
 enough
 we
 moved
 towards
 Garam
 Chashma.
 From
 here
 onwards
 all
 roads
 are
 dirt
 roads
 so
 when
 I
 write
 road
 it
 should
 be
 understood
as
a
dirt
road.
Dirt
roads
in
this
area
are
usually
jeep
able
tracks
and
 not
meant
for
cars
or
motorbikes
as
there
are
rocks
and
boulders
in
abundance.
 The
track
to
Garam
Chashma
goes
through
terraced
fields
and
fragrant
orchards.
 It
is
a
scenic
route.
You
start
with
Trichmir
looking
right
in
your
face
and
keep
 changing
postures
for
some
time.
 
 Garma
 Chashma
 is
 Tehseel
 headquarter
 of
 Chitral
 and
 it
 gained
 even
 more
 significance
during
Afghan
war.
There
was
a
refugee
camp
situated
here
and
still
 there
 is
 a
 bazar
 (market)
 selling
 Russian
 new
 and
 used
 stuff
 including
 soldier
 belts,
knives
army
water
bottles,
jackets
etc.
The
camp
was
no
more
there
at
the
 time
of
travel
but
its
after
effects
were.
 
 There
are
two
streams
that
you
cross
while
going
to
Garam
Shashma.
There
was
 no
bridge
on
the
dirt
track
therefore
the
jeeps
go
through
the
water.
Its
easier
for
 a
jeep
to
go
through
it
as
compared
to
on
two
tires.
First
one
was
not
that
tough
 but
the
second
one
was
very
fast
flowing
water
of
about
2.5
feet
in
the
middle
of
 stream
with
very
uneven
bottom
full
of
rocks.
We
crossed
it
after
had
carefully
 examined
the
place
and
decided
a
spot
to
cross.
One
person
had
to
walk
across
 each
time
we
crossed
a
stream.
Rest
of
the
track
was
just
simple
dirt
track.
 
 We
 arrived
 at
 Garma
 Chashma
 towards
 the
 evening.
 It
 is
 right
 at
 the
 edge
 of
 a
 river
and
you
could
hear
the
fast
water
flowing
through
rocky
bed
24
hours.
This
 town
has
its
own
production
of
electricity
owing
to
the
fast
and
abundant
water.
 If
 hiked
 up
 a
 bit
 you
 would
 reach
 a
 hot
 spring.
 The
 track
 continued
 through
 a
 very
small
bazar
towards
Afghanistan
which
is
not
far
from
here.
We
looked
for
a
 place
for
us
to
camp
but
most
places
were
either
uneven
or
rocky
therefore
we
 requested
 one
 government
 building
 official
 to
 let
 us
 put
 our
 tent
 in
 their
 lawn
 which
he
happily
accepted.
It
was
a
rest
house
type
building
with
a
garden
on
the
 side
 and
 a
 perfect
 spot
 for
 putting
 our
 camp.
 We
 had
 borrowed
 this
 tent
 from
 one
of
our
friend
and
it
was
fairly
big
for
two
people
and
because
of
that
we
had
 a
few
shivering
nights
in
the
trip.
Tent
was
up
and
we
were
ready
for
some
hike.
 We
came
to
the
hot
spring
and
took
bath
first
followed
by
our
everyday
activity
 of
washing
cloths.
The
water
was
really
hot
and
was
not
an
easy
task
to
take
bath
 in
it,
we
managed
somehow.
 


We
 had
 a
 nice
 hike
 there
 and
 came
 back
 to
 the
 tent
 to
 put
 wet
 cloths
 on
 the
 strings.
 Night
 was
 falling
 very
 fast
 and
 it
 was
 getting
 cold
 every
 minute.
 The
 whole
village
tour
was
finished
before
it
got
to
dark.
We
visited
the
Russian
stuff
 shops
 and
 picked
 up
 some
 souvenirs
 before
 we
 had
 diner
 at
 one
 Afghani
 restaurant.
Had
chat
with
some
locals
and
then
headed
back
to
our
camp.
It
was
 a
shorter
drive
today
as
compared
to
the
day
before.
Therefore
we
got
some
time
 to
 relax
 and
 enjoy
 the
 night
 under
 the
 stars
 but
 a
 very
 chilly
 one.
 In
 this
 trip
 every
night
we
slept
as
soon
as
we
decided
to
crash
because
of
the
hectic
drive
 on
bumpy
and
dirt
track.
Fifth
day
gone
and
we
loved
every
moment
of
our
trip.
 
 DAY6
 We
got
up
in
the
morning
and
had
a
late
start
for
the
first
day
expecting
the
next
 destination
 will
 be
 easily
 accessible.
 While
 we
 were
 packing
 a
 group
 of
 5
 boys
 from
Lahore
came
there
and
had
a
chat
with
us.
They
started
of
with
10
people
in
 a
van
but
at
Lowari
Top
they
had
split
into
two
groups
due
to
some
conflict
and
 went
ahead
with
their
own
plans.
They
praised
and
asked
how
could
we
go
for
 such
 long
 trips
 and
 on
 a
 bike
 and
 doing
 camping.
 Basically
 they
 were
 asking
 about
 any
 conflicts
 or
 clash
 of
 opinions
 between
 the
 two
 partners.
 I
 only
 answered
them
on
one
sentence
"
Make
a
journey
with
a
partner
who
can
wash
 you
 underwear
 if
 need
 be"
 and
 off
 course
 the
 true
 test
 of
 relationship
 and
 friendship
 is
 when
 you
 travel
 and
 stay
 together.
 Point
 was
 taken
 and
 we
 said
 good‐bye
to
each
other
as
we
had
a
long
way
ahead.
 
 Today
 we
 had
 planned
 to
 reach
 the
 closest
 village
 to
 Shandur
 Pass
 standing
 at
 12500
 ft
 above
 sea
 level
 and
 to
 cross
 Shandur
 the
 day
 after.
 We
 came
 back
 to
 Chitral
as
that
is
the
only
way
to
Shandur.
At
Chitral
the
track
crosses
the
Chitral
 river
to
go
towards
Shandur
Pass.
On
the
map
our
next
night
would
be
at
Mastuj
 or
 Laspur
 the
 last
 settlements
 before
 Shandur
 Pass.
 We
 crossed
 a
 few
 tiny
 houses
 and
 a
 small
 restaurant
 where
 we
 had
 a
 quick
 bite
 under
 the
 trees.
 The
 track
goes
up
and
down
in
the
mountains.
There
had
been
blasting
done
to
make
 the
road
wider
and
more
accessible
for
the
famous
Polo
tournament
at
Shandur
 Top.
The
tournament
is
getting
great
attention
from
all
around
and
is
becoming
a
 favorite
 to
 watch
 for
 the
 elite
 of
 Pakistan.
 They
 might
 not
 have
 come
 across
 to
 see
Polo
in
their
whole
lives.
It
was
a
long
and
tough
track
snaking
up
slowly
in
 the
mountains.
By
afternoon
we
reached
a
spot
where
we
thought,
that
was
it.
It
 was
a
stream
of
red
water
coming
down
so
fast
that
it
seemed
impossible
for
us
 to
cross
on
the
bike.
There
were
many
streams
/
Nalas
that
cross
the
track
and
 there
 were
 no
 bridges
 on
 them.
 Most
 of
 them
 see
 water
 during
 the
 rain
 hours,
 however
there
were
some
which
had
continuous
flow
of
water.
 
 When
 it
 rains
 in
 the
 mountains
 it
 brings
 the
 color
 and
 rocks
 of
 that
 particular
 mountains
 down
 at
 such
 incredible
 speed
 and
 that
 makes
 it
 a
 flash
 flood.
 Crossing
 streams
 becomes
 impossible
 at
 those
 times
 and
 the
 wait
 time
 could
 vary
depending
upon
how
much
rain
the
mountain
is
going
to
receive.
We
were


just
 stranded
 here,
 the
 clock
 was
 ticking
 as
 we
 were
 far
 from
 reaching
 any
 settlement.
The
wait
was
torturous
because
we
were
in
the
middle
of
no
where
 and
couldnt
even
think
of
camping
at
such
place
if
need
be.
In
the
mean
time
a
 couple
of
local
people
came
from
the
mountains
and
reluctantly
sat
closer
to
us.
 We
 asked
 them
 about
 the
 stream
 but
 could
 hardly
 understood
 their
 opinion.
 A
 jeep
 came
 from
 the
 opposite
 side
 and
 crossed
 the
 stream
 with
 great
 difficulty
 and
then
another
came.
None
of
them
listened
to
us
to
help
us
crossing
our
bike
 across,
they
were
not
ready
to
cross
the
dangerous
water
3
times
when
they
had
 made
it
across
once
quite
dangerously
and
safely.
Well
we
had
no
option
but
to
 wait
and
see.
After
an
hour
or
so
I
suggested
Shaukat
to
ask
these
local
people
for
 help
 us
 in
 crossing
 the
 water
 ,
 they
 were
 now
 8
 in
 number.
 We
 agreed
 and
 as
 soon
we
asked
them
that
we
were
ready
to
cross
the
stream
if
they
could
help
us
 with
that.
They
happily
accepted
it
and
touched
to
check
our
bike.
The
luggage
 was
taken
off
and
carried
by
Shaukat
and
another
guy.
They
luckily
had
a
piece
of
 rope
that
was
tied
straight
across
and
four
people
held
onto
the
bike
rather
held
 on
to
each
other
and
the
bike
so
that
no
one
was
washed
up
with
the
flooded
red
 water.
From
the
track
the
stream
was
plunging
down
like
a
water
fall
very
deep
 into
the
valley.
We
were
all
set
to
go
one
after
the
other
a
few
people
crossed
the
 stream
with
the
help
of
each
other
and
the
final
step
came
to
take
the
bike
across
 and
 I
 was
 spearheading
 this
 effort.
 We
 moved
 slowly
 into
 the
 water
 and
 the
 water
 wanted
 to
 take
 all
 of
 us
 along.
 The
 worst
 thing
 was
 there
 were
 rocks
 coming
in
the
water
and
those
were
good
enough
to
hit
and
injure
anyone
of
us.
 And
suddenly
it
happened...a
rock
hit
my
foot
and
made
my
feet
leave
the
ground
 and
next
moment
I
was
holding
onto
the
bike
to
save
my
life.
There
was
this
thin
 moment
 between
 life
 and
 death
 and
 yet
 I
 was
 the
 one
 to
 experience
 it
 yet
 another
time
in
my
life.
This
moment
was
hundred
years
long
and
I
clung
onto
 this
moment
and
kept
trying
to
put
my
feet
down,
but
the
water
was
too
fast
and
 it
 was
 not
 letting
 me.
 The
 other
 three
 people
 were
 having
 difficulty
 to
 balance
 the
 bike
 and
 also
 trying
 to
 hold
 me
 at
 the
 same
 time.
 Those
 endless
 moments
 passed
and
with
their
help
i
was
able
to
put
my
feet
down
and
finally
made
it
to
 the
other
side
of
the
stream
turned
totally
red
due
to
the
red
soil
in
the
water.
 We
were
all
turned
red
due
to
the
color
of
the
muddy
water.
It
took
us
a
while
to
 get
back
to
normal
due
to
the
whole
ordeal.
 
 Everything
 was
 packed
 back
 as
 it
 was
 40
 feet
 away
 on
 the
 other
 side
 of
 the
 stream
and
started
our
journey
after
thanking
the
kind
hearted
people.
 
 The
scenery
was
stunning
and
the
route
was
amazing.
Our
bike
had
been
doing
 good
so
far
and
we
were
very
happy
about
it.
The
track
was
getting
very
rough
 by
every
mile
and
rocky
track
was
really
making
us
slow.
This
was
the
toughest
 long
drive
on
bike
that
I
had
done
so
far.
We
experienced
some
better
track
until
 the
 point
 where
 blasting
 work
 finished
 and
 then
 the
 condition
 of
 the
 track
 started
deteriorating
due
to
lack
of
maintenance.
 


I
 had
 driven
 in
 all
 districts
 of
 Kashmir
 and
 several
 other
 mountainous
 regions
 but
 due
 to
 the
 beaten
 track
 it
 was
 hurting
 all
 parts
 of
 our
 bodies
 and
 my
 arms
 had
 swollen
 muscles
 by
 now.
 It
 was
 late
 afternoon
 and
 the
 next
 intended
 stop
 was
far
far
away
in
terms
of
time
or
distance.
The
rocks
were
not
letting
us
drive
 more
than
a
few
kilometers
per
hour
and
we
were
almost
crawling
on
the
track.
 A
couple
of
jeeps
passed
us
and
went
ahead
on
great
speed
comparatively
due
to
 four
wheels
and
army
tires.
We
had
no
choice
but
to
continue
like
this.
 
 One
 thing
 we
 learned
 in
 several
 travels
 that
 patience
 is
 very
 important
 in
 journeys
 and
 one
 has
 to
 really
 take
 care
 of
 the
 means
 of
 travel.
 The
 ride
 takes
 you
from
point
A
to
point
B
therefore
making
it
the
most
important
party
to
take
 care
of
in
any
journey.
So
we
were
in
no
hurry.
We
pampered
our
bike
at
the
end
 of
each
day
and
did
the
necessary
maintenance.
 
 We
 were
 walking
 with
 Shaukat
 carrying
 the
 backpack
 and
 myself
 pushing
 the
 bike
in
first
gear.
This
was
our
first
breakdown
since
we
started
from
Lahore
a
 week
 back.
 We
 had
 hit
 a
 rock
 in
 the
 rear
 tire
 and
 all
 techniques
 to
 fix
 the
 tire
 were
 in
 vain.
 As
 soon
 as
 we
 hopped
 on
 to
 drive
 it
 was
 going
 flat
 again.
 So
 we
 decided
to
walk
to
a
village
named
Bunni
that
was
3
kilometers
away.
Walking
 here
 was
 not
 easy
 rather
 was
 extremely
 tough
 with
 such
 a
 load,
 circumstances
 and
tired
poor
souls.
We
made
our
ground
very
slowly
and
made
it
to
the
river
 crossing
where
the
board
was
showing
an
arrow
to
the
right
for
Bunny.
We
got
 flabbergasted
by
looking
at
the
steep
across
the
bridge
that
lead
to
the
village.
No
 choice
but
to
continue
dragging
ourselves.
We
made
it
to
the
village
after
it
had
 already
 turned
 dark.
 The
 last
 three
 kilometers
 were
 covered
 in
 years.
 We
 entered
 the
 village
 and
 a
 couple
 of
 young
 boys
 started
 walking
 with
 us.
 They
 were
very
sweet
and
very
helpful
and
even
offered
us
to
carry
our
stuff
which
we
 turned
down
politely
because
while
traveling
we
usually
do
not
trust
anyone
as
a
 rule
of
thumb.
They
told
us
that
there
was
a
guys
in
their
village
who
could
fix
 the
tire
but
he
had
already
left
for
the
day
and
he
lived
in
the
mountains
and
not
 in
the
village.
We
requested
them
if
he
could
be
called
upon.
They
walked
us
to
 one
close
shop
and
asked
us
to
park
the
bike
there.
They
consulted
a
few
other
 guys
and
finally
told
us
that
they
were
sending
a
man
to
call
the
required
person
 but
 it
 was
 going
 to
 take
 a
 while.
 We
 had
 no
 choice
 but
 to
 wait
 for
 him.
 We
 thought
 we
 would
 go
 eat
 something
 in
 the
 meantime
 so
 they
 brought
 us
 to
 a
 small
the
only
so
called
restaurant.
They
had
nothing
to
eat
there
and
moreover
 it
 was
 so
 suffocating
 in
 there
 that
 we
 couldn't
 even
 breath
 properly
 due
 to
 the
 place
 not
 cleaned
 for
 years,
 and
 in
 that
 small
 place
 they
 cooked,
 ate
 and
 few
 people
slept
there
every
night.
We
came
out
before
throwing
up.
 
 The
task
ahead
was
tremendous,
firstly
to
fix
the
tire
and
secondly
to
find
a
place
 to
sleep.
It
was
already
very
cold
and
we
had
put
on
our
jackets.
It
took
another
 long
hour
and
a
half
for
that
good
man
to
come
all
the
way
from
the
mountains
 for
our
rescue.



 He
told
us
how
to
fix
a
puncture
there
but
we
decided
to
use
our
spare
tube
to
fit
 in
 and
 keep
 the
 fixed
 one
 as
 spare
 to
 avoid
 any
 further
 problems.
 It
 was
 not
 before
9:30
pm
when
we
got
free
from
all
this
,
absolutely
hungry
and
tired.
We
 desperately
wanted
to
find
a
shelter
to
take
some
rest.
We
asked
the
same
angel
 boys
to
help
us
finding
a
place
because
we
could
not
find
a
proper
place
for
our
 tent
anywhere
in
the
dark.
One
of
the
fellows
asked
us
to
follow
him.
He
entered
 a
gate
and
took
us
to
a
room
with
very
strange
setup.
There
was
a
fan
on
in
the
 room
 but
 the
 room
 was
 still
 very
 warm
 and
 outside
 it
 was
 freezing
 cold.
 Upon
 asking
it
was
revealed
to
us
that
there
is
layer
of
hay
under
the
carpet
to
make
 the
room
warm
and
that
makes
it
very
warm
like
a
heated
room
therefore
a
fan
 is
required
to
keep
temperature
normal.
This
was
the
technique
used
to
centrally
 heat
 their
 houses.
 They
 served
 us
 with
 tea
 and
 also
 provided
 us
 with
 Two
 Charpaaees
(local
bed)
in
the
veranda.
This
was
a
great
favor.
We
very
thankfully
 accepted
 the
 offer
 and
 went
 to
 sleep
 in
 a
 very
 cold
 night.
 We
 crashed
 and
 only
 got
up
early
in
the
morning
to
continue
our
journey.
 
 I
salute
to
those
people
who
helped
us
in
different
parts
of
the
day
yesterday.
But
 last
 night
 that
 group
 of
 people
 told
 us
 that
 our
 bike
 is
 not
 going
 to
 make
 it
 to
 Shandur
as
it
was
too
tough
for
this
poor
little
bike.
They
warned
us
about
it
and
 suggested
 to
 rent
 a
 jeep
 to
 take
 our
 bike
 across
 Shandur
 safely.
 We
 were
 too
 tired
already
to
listen
to
this
crap
(what
I
would
call
it)
because
they
had
no
idea
 what
 have
 we
 achieved
 on
 these
 smaller
 bikes
 in
 our
 other
 trips.
 They
 didn't
 know
 about
 our
 determination
 and
 perseverance.
 We
 were
 fully
 confident
 and
 determined
to
make
it.
Time
would
tell.
 
 DAY7
 
 The
 last
 settlement
 before
 Shandur
 Pass
 is
 the
 beautiful
 village
 of
 Laspur
 and
 from
there
it
becomes
extremely
steep
to
reach
up
to
Shandur
for
the
next
10‐15
 kilometers.
 It
 was
 still
 early
 when
 we
 made
 it
 to
 Mastuj
 the
 last
 sizable
 settlement
on
Chitral's
side.
We
made
it
to
Mastuj
on
a
similar
track
as
yesterday
 or
even
worst.
We
were
hungry
because
we
didn't
have
proper
food
for
the
last
 few
 days
 and
 our
 last
 proper
 meal
 was
 in
 Kohat
 from
 the
 Officers
 Mess.
 There
 was
 nothing
 open
 there
 so
 we
 had
 to
 live
 with
 our
 own
 supplies.
 Our
 supplies
 included
some
biscuits
and
stuff
that
we
had
with
a
cup
of
tea.
Track
to
Laspur
 was
 not
 easy
 either
 and
 it
 took
 us
 a
 long
 time
 to
 negotiate
 with
 the
 track
 with
 several
 breaks
 on
 the
 way.
 When
 we
 crossed
 Laspur
 we
 already
 knew
 that
 the
 task
 ahead
 was
 daunting
 and
 it
 was
 not
 going
 to
 get
 any
 easier.
 The
 bike
 was
 crying
and
despite
all
precautions
we
were
taking
breaks
every
mile.
 
 Laspur
 is
 a
 valley
 full
 of
 green
 fields,
 the
 valley
 opens
 up
 as
 you
 go
 further.
 I
 would
 rate
 this
 village
 one
 of
 the
 best
 scenes.
 The
 whole
 track
 winds
 and
 losts


into
brown
mountains
and
suddenly
we
would
face
such
green
areas
and
water
 streams
 after
 a
 turn
 that
 we
 would
 become
 speechless
 and
 the
 beauty
 unexplainable.
You
could
only
experience
it
yourself.
 
 From
 Laspur
 we
 started
 the
 real
 climb
 and
 soon
 after
 we
 discovered
 that
 our
 bike
 is
 really
 giving
 up.
 We
 had
 to
 stop
 at
 about
 every
 mile
 to
 give
 rest
 to
 our
 bike;
we
cooled
it
down
with
spring
water
again
and
again.
We
even
opened
the
 piston
 head
 and
 cleaned
 it.
 We
 had
 even
 removed
 the
 silencer
 buffer
 from
 Lahore
 but
 kept
 the
 back
 cover
 on
 to
 reduce
 the
 sound.
 Now
 we
 removed
 the
 cover
 as
 well
 but
 the
 bike
 was
 very
 uncomfortable
 climbing.
 Therefore
 we
 decided
that
we
would
stop
at
each
kilometer,
cool
it
down
and
then
start
again.
 It
worked
for
a
few
kilometers
but
then
we
had
to
change
our
strategy.
Shaukat
 hiked
up
while
I
got
down
from
the
bike
and
pushed
it
in
first
gear
slipping
all
 over.
This
way
we
covered
some
more
distance
but
lost
a
lot
of
time
and
strength
 in
 the
 process.
 We
 were
 very
 close
 to
 the
 Shandur
 Pass
 and
 that
 was
 the
 motivation
in
pushing
our
tired
bodies.
We
had
worked
hard
to
reach
here
and
 were
not
giving
in
to
some
physical
challenge.
Slow
and
steady
wins
the
race
so
 we
did.
 
 First
thing
we
saw
at
the
top
was
a
vast
plateau
empty
without
having
a
sign
of
 anyone
 ever
 crossed
 it.
 The
 air
 was
 thin
 and
 cold
 at
 12500
 ft.
 A
 creepy
 feeling
 initially
 ran
 through
 our
 spines,
 we
 had
 a
 break
 to
 have
 a
 little
 well
 deserved
 rest.
 Pictures
 were
 taken
 for
 the
 memoirs.
 Who
 knew
 that
 I'll
 be
 writing
 about
 this
 trip
 ,
 16
 years
 after
 the
 journey.
 The
 love
 and
 passion
 for
 travel,
 outdoors
 and
 especially
 the
 mountains
 have
 always
 kept
 me
 going
 for
 one
 trip
 after
 another.
 I've
 taken
 up
 very
 difficult
 tasks
 and
 completed
 them
 and
 today
 I
 was
 standing
on
Shandur
top,
which
was
my
dream
ever
since
I
read
about
this
place
 in
a
travel
article.
Shandur
was
not
just
that
what
we
were
seeing,
it
was
just
the
 beginning.
As
we
started
going
further
we
saw
the
Shandur
Lake
right
in
front
of
 our
 eyes
 and
 I
 must
 say
 the
 view
 was
 magnificent.
 A
 lake
 at
 such
 height
 surrounded
 by
 mountains,
 I
 am
 unable
 to
 find
 words
 to
 express
 my
 feelings
 at
 this
point.
The
lake
is
big
and
beautiful
and
creates
some
kind
of
fairytale
feeling
 at
this
height.
We
were
thrilled
at
the
same
time
felt
the
cold
that
was
getting
to
 our
bones
and
bodies
not
fed
well.
 
 There
 was
 a
 check
 post
 by
 Frontier
 Corps
 at
 the
 top.
 We
 tried
 to
 reason
 with
 them
 to
 let
 us
 stay
 there
 but
 they
 turned
 it
 down
 by
 saying
 that
 we
 would
 not
 survive
the
cold
night
in
the
tent
and
they
did
not
have
extra
space
to
keep
the
 two
 poor
 souls.
 Hence
 after
 sight
 seeing
 and
 photography
 we
 had
 to
 leave
 towards
Gilgit
and
we
didn't
know
how
far
would
be
the
next
settlement
cause
if
 we
asked
the
locals
for
the
distance,
they
always
told
us
a
few
kilometers
or
half
 an
hour,
though
the
reality
was
always
different.
 


The
clouds
were
gathering
fast
and
soon
after
it
started
to
rain.
We
were
already
 cold
and
now
rain
was
an
extra
thing.
Our
raincoats
over
the
jackets
were
blown
 by
 strong
 wind
 just
 picked
 up.
 The
 track
 was
 going
 through
 fields
 and
 mushy
 soil.
We
were
going
at
slow
speed
to
negotiate
with
the
natural
hazards
and
were
 not
in
the
best
of
state
of
mind
due
to
tired
bodies
and
had
not
seen
any
other
 traveler
on
the
route
so
far.
Shaukat
kept
talking
to
me
to
keep
the
spirits
high.
 My
body
and
bones
were
not
working
in
coordination
with
each
other
due
to
the
 exertion
 and
 cold.
 Hands
 were
 turned
 blue
 and
 raincoat
 was
 not
 much
 help
 either.
 We
 were
 not
 even
 sure
 that
 we
 were
 following
 the
 right
 path.
 After
 driving
 for
 about
 45
 minutes
 the
 track
 started
 descending
 and
 at
 places
 it
 was
 very
steep
rocky
descends
making
it
more
difficult
for
me
to
control
the
bike
and
 it
was
just
sliding
down
on
the
rocks.
We
kept
going
with
the
ups
and
downs
of
 terrain
and
had
no
trace
of
any
habitation.
The
scenery
was
spectacular
without
 any
doubt.
 
 It
 took
 us
 a
 few
 hours
 to
 see
 signs
 of
 a
 village
 far
 away.
 We
 finally
 made
 it
 to
 another
 smaller
 check
 post
 and
 got
 to
 know
 that
 we
 had
 reached
 and
 village
 names
Teru
at
10500
ft
above
sea
level.
We
already
knew
that
another
cold
night
 was
ahead.
 
 The
 rain
 had
 stopped
 and
 our
 cloths
 were
 already
 dried
 due
 to
 driving.
 It
 was
 evening
when
we
reached
the
small
ground
next
to
an
old
rest
house.
There
were
 4
 tents
 already
 pitched
 there
 and
 we
 could
 see
 some
 activity
 around.
 Evening
 was
 approaching
 fast
 so
 we
 erected
 our
 tent
 in
 the
 last
 light
 of
 the
 day.
 The
 person
 who
 took
 care
 of
 the
 small
 building
 lent
 us
 two
 blankets
 as
 we
 did
 not
 have
 any
 sleeping
 mattresses
 and
 he
 knew
 that
 it
 wasnt
 possible
 for
 us
 to
 survive
 the
 night
 in
 minus
 temperature.
 We
 drove
 for
 14
 hours
 during
 the
 day
 slow
and
steady
to
enjoy
every
bit
of
it
and
not
to
put
strain
on
our
ride.
It
was
 fresh
and
ready
to
take
on
anything
after
we
pampered
it
that
night.
 
 There
 were
 three
 tents
 by
 one
 group
 and
 surprisingly
 the
 girls
 were
 Pakistani
 and
 the
 boys
 from
 Swiss.
 The
 two
 girls
 were
 sisters
 from
 Gujranwala,
 one
 of
 them
was
married
to
a
Swiss
and
the
third
girl
was
their
friend
also
Swiss.
There
 were
 three
 boys
 two
 Swiss
 and
 one
 the
 brother
 of
 Pakistani
 girls.
 This
 combination
 was
 quite
 uncommon.
 This
 was
 my
 first
 encounter
 to
 see
 some
 Pakistani
girls
involved
in
such
activity
of
camping
and
outdoors.
Then
there
was
 another
tent
by
a
Dutch
who
was
walking
from
Gilgit
all
the
way
to
Chitral.
 
 A
local
offered
us
food
for
money
which
we
happily
accepted
not
knowing
that
 what
we
were
going
to
get.
The
night
fell
very
quickly
and
it
was
complete
dark.
 We
were
waiting
for
that
fellow
to
bring
food
for
us.
The
dutch
also
joined
us
and
 the
hungry
stomachs
were
already
growling.
Finally
he
came
with
some
sort
of
 food
 and
 it
 looked
 to
 me
 grass
 boiled
 which
 he
 claimed
 was
 local
 spinach
 with


some
roti
(bread).
We
gathered
in
our
tent
to
feed
ourselves.
I
could
not
continue
 after
 my
 first
 bite
 due
 to
 its
 awful
 taste
 even
 in
 a
 situation
 when
 I
 was
 too
 hungry.
I
just
ate
some
roti
and
some
water
and
so
did
my
partner,
however
the
 dutch
 somehow
 liked
 it
 and
 had
 our
 share
 as
 well.
 Another
 night
 the
 hungry
 stomachs
 were
 deprived
 of
 proper
 food.
 The
 night,
 as
 expected
 was
 very
 very
 cold
but
we
didn't
even
know
when
we
slept
and
woke
up
very
early
to
enjoy
the
 fresh
 air
 and
 the
 charismatic
 environment
 in
 the
 mountains.
 We
 enjoyed
 this
 habit
of
getting
up
very
early
to
enjoy
the
morning
and
leave
early
to
have
more
 stops
in
the
drive
to
come.
 
 We
used
the
open
air
bathroom
facilities
and
freshened
up
at
the
stream
flowing
 close
 by.
 It
 was
 time
 to
 pack
 up,
 to
 have
 pictures
 and
 to
 say
 goodbye
 to
 Teru.
 Next
stop
would
be
in
Yasin
valley
at
Gupis.
 
 DAY8
 
 By
 now
 we
 were
 so
 used
 to
 any
 sort
 of
 terrain
 and
 tracks
 that
 nothing
 was
 difficult.
We
were
enjoying
our
drive
and
the
surroundings.
The
track
from
Teru
 to
 Gupis
 was
 going
 through
 a
 lot
 of
 maintenance
 so
 we
 came
 across
 people
 working
on
the
way.
In
the
afternoon
we
saw
kitchen
tent
installed
for
the
labor
 working
 in
 the
 area.
 We
 thought
 to
 try
 our
 lucks
 to
 buy
 some
 food
 from
 there.
 Lunch
time
was
already
over
so
could
only
arrange
a
little
bit
of
left
over
gravy
 that
we
ate
with
some
roti
that
we
saved
last
night.
It
was
ok
to
get
us
going.
It
 was
another
long
drive
of
about
80km
in
on
the
rough
track.
 
 We
were
stunned
by
the
view
after
a
blind
turn
and
right
in
front
of
eyes
was
an
 amazing
lake
"The
Phander
Lake".
The
are
is
lush
green
and
the
views
priceless.
 This
 was
 the
 prize
 of
 the
 day
 and
 all
 our
 tiredness
 was
 just
 vanished
 by
 the
 scenery
and
surroundings.
This
was
the
easy
and
happy
side
of
this
place,
on
the
 other
hand
we
noticed
that
the
track
was
dipping
and
the
track
goes
closer
to
the
 lake
 and
 eventually
 it
 passed
 through
 the
 extended
 water
 that
 had
 flooded
 the
 track
 with
 rugged
 mountain
 on
 the
 other
 side.
 That
 made
 the
 track
 almost
 impossible
to
pass
through
on
our
bike.
 
 We
enjoyed
this
place
first,
took
some
snaps
and
then
got
to
the
difficult
part
i.e.
 how
to
cross
the
place.
We
were
doing
our
analysis
and
a
couple
of
jeeps
passed
 through;
 these
 were
 in
 the
 4x4
 but
 had
 great
 difficulty
 to
 pass
 the
 mud
 and
 water.
This
gave
us
some
more
knowledge
about
the
track.
Finally
it
was
dicided
 that
 my
 partner
 to
 go
 walking
 on
 the
 side
 through
 the
 mountain
 and
 I
 would
 drive
through
on
the
bike.
The
toughest
part
was
only
about
200
meters
and
the
 rest
was
not
as
tough.
I
started
off
with
a
first
dip
in
the
water,
the
bike
roared
 out
 from
 this
 ditch
 and
 then
 slowly
 I
 was
 making
 ground
 through
 the
 muddy


track.
I
was
a
difficult
and
scary
short
ride.
Bike
kept
screaming
until
I
touched
 the
dry
part
after
a
few
minutes.
It
was
an
amazing
off‐road
experience
on
this
 little
bike.
 
 We
 happily
 continued
 our
 drive
 to
 Gupis
 and
 safely
 made
 it
 by
 later
 afternoon
 after
 12
 hours
 of
 driving
 from
 Teru.
 This
 was
 a
 very
 nice
 little
 village.
 People
 were
very
polite
and
they
directed
us
to
a
rest
house
lawn
for
camping.
The
in
 charge
charged
us
a
little
amount
for
the
night
and
allowed
us
to
pitch
our
tent.
I
 made
a
mistake
here
that
I'll
explain
in
a
moment.
We
found
the
best
spot
with
 lots
of
grass
under
to
give
us
cushion
under
our
sleeping
bags.
Tent
was
erected
 and
we
asked
for
any
place
to
eat.
 
 The
village
was
about
1
kilometer
so
we
trekked
to
that
place;
it
was
just
after
 sunset
when
we
entered
a
small
tea
cabin/restaurant.
The
owner
told
us
that
he
 was
 from
 Swat
 and
 there
 is
 a
 hiking/trekking
 trail
 that
 lead
 to
 Swat
 from
 this
 area.
This
fellow
came
here
20
years
ago
to
meat
his
uncle
and
fell
in
love
with
a
 local
 girl.
 Ever
 since
 he
 lived
 here
 and
 made
 his
 living
 through
 this
 small
 restaurant.
He
had
12
kids
and
they
all
were
leading
a
very
happy
life.
 
 We
 requested
 him
 to
 arrange
 eggs
 for
 us
 if
 possible.
 He
 went
 to
 a
 few
 houses
 around
 and
 was
 able
 to
 get
 a
 few
 eggs
 for
 us.
 We
 made
 omelete
 from
 the
 eggs
 and
he
baked
some
roti
for
us.
Some
daal/lentils
was
also
served
and
we
had
a
 very
nice
dinner
after
so
many
days.
After
the
dinner
we
sat
with
him
outside
the
 small
room
and
enjoyed
the
night
and
had
a
nice
cup
of
tea.
We
received
some
 very
good
piece
of
information
from
him
about
the
area
and
the
people.
Very
late
 we
started
walking
back
to
the
camp
and
crashed
in.
 
 During
 the
 night
 I
 felt
 cold
 and
 thought
 it’s
 the
 usual
 business
 that
 we
 face
 everyday.
Soon
after
I
felt
that
my
head
was
kind
of
wet
so
I
moved
down
a
bit,
as
 I
mentioned
our
tent
was
quite
big
for
two
people.
Some
more
time
passed
I
felt
 that
 my
 hand
 is
 touching
 water
 so
 I
 asked
 my
 partner
 if
 his
 side
 was
 wet?
 He
 answered
 in
 negative
 so
 we
 moved
 a
 bit
 to
 his
 side.
 All
 this
 was
 happening
 to
 very
tired
people
and
we
were
not
investigating
what
was
going
on.
So
we
slept
 again
and
later
in
the
early
hours
of
morning
we
realized
that
we
were
soaked
in
 water
and
it
was
few
inches
deep
wit
all
our
belongings
just
floating
in
the
water.
 It
was
terribly
cold.
We
both
jumped
out
and
saw
water
all
arround
in
the
lawns.
 We
 took
 all
 our
 stuff
 to
 move
 it
 to
 the
 higher
 ground
 and
 tried
 to
 warm
 ourselves.
 We
 were
 wet
 and
 cold
 and
 it
 was
 blowing
 in
 the
 negative
 temperatures.
 One
 of
 the
 worst
 cold
 I
 have
 ever
 experienced
 was
 this
 night
 by
 any
standards.
 


It
was
not
possible
to
warm
us
with
wet
cloths.
Therefore
we
took
them
off
and
 changed
with
whatever
was
in
a
better
position.
After
making
the
sleeping
bag
as
 dry
 as
 possible
 we
 hopped
 in
 with
 our
 heads
 in
 to
 warm
 ourselves
 with
 our
 breathing.
We
were
dying
due
to
cold
and
there
was
nothing
we
could
do
as
the
 rest
 house
 was
 locked
 with
 no
 way
 to
 sneak
 in
 which
 we
 tried
 already.
 After
 trying
this
technique
we
thought
to
do
some
exercise,
some
running
to
keep
the
 blood
 running
 and
 making
 ourselves
 warm.
 This
 technique
 worked
 to
 some
 extent
and
we
started
feeling
better.
 
 DAY9
 It
 was
 very
 early
 and
 we
 offered
 our
 prayers.
 Later
 we
 investigated
 what
 happened
last
night.
The
watchman
forgot
to
tell
the
gardener
about
our
camp
in
 the
lawn
where
he
was
suppose
to
water
that
night.
It
was
a
green
patch
in
the
 mountains
so
they
open
a
stream
path
into
it
and
the
water
flew
right
into
it.
We
 made
a
terrible
mistake
for
picking
up
that
nice
patch
in
the
depression
to
pitch
 our
tent.
Even
if
it
had
rained
we
had
to
face
similar
situation.
When
the
water
 started
filling
the
depression
first,
this
was
the
time
when
I
started
feeling
it
but
 due
 to
 the
 hectic
 drive
 we
 kept
 moving
 ourselves
 in
 the
 camp
 and
 eventually
 reached
 a
 stage
 when
 this
 patch
 was
 completely
 filled
 with
 8
 inches
 of
 water.
 This
was
part
of
our
learning
and
I
never
repeated
this
mistake
again
and
am.
 
 Day
9
was
boring
of
the
all.
We
needed
some
fuel
as
we
had
used
our
entire
spare
 gallon
that
we
had
hooked
up
at
the
back
of
carrier
on
our
bike
and
that
proved
 to
be
very
useful
for
us
on
this
rugged
track.
There
was
a
small
patrol
pump
in
 Gupis
but
we
were
told
that
due
to
landslide
they
had
not
received
any
fuel
for
 the
last
two
days
so
there
was
nothing
for
us.
They
didn’t
know
when
they
would
 get
more.
We
were
stranded
without
fuel.
The
drive
was
not
too
long
today
but
 we
 were
 not
 ready
 to
 take
 risk
 of
 being
 stopped
 in
 the
 middle
 of
 nowhere.
 We
 came
back
to
our
last
night
Swati
friend
and
explained
to
him
the
situation.
He
 spoke
 to
 a
 few
 people
 and
 we
 were
 sent
 to
 a
 person
 who
 had
 a
 motorbike
 the
 Honda
CD200.
He
offered
some
fuel
from
his
tank
at
a
bit
higher
price
which
we
 happily
accepted
as
we
needed
the
fuel
badly.
Somehow
fuel
was
taken
out
of
his
 bike's
tank
and
put
into
our
bike.
After
this
couple
of
hours
exercise
we
were
all
 set
to
go
towards
Gilgit.
We
started
our
bumpy
ride
again
and
had
an
uneventful
 journey
to
Gilgit
by
mid
afternoon.
 
 Our
 first
 preference
 was
 to
 get
 our
 bike
 services
 and
 pampered.
 We
 found
 one
 workshop
 and
 got
 the
 tunning
 done
 on
 our
 bike.
 The
 mechanic
 was
 surprised
 that
this
bike
had
made
it
to
Shandur.
First
he
didnt
believe
it
but
then
he
saw
 our
conditions
and
our
equipment
and
praised
our
bravery.
He
did
a
very
good
 job
on
our
bike
in
the
next
couple
of
hours.
He
worked
on
every
part
of
it
to
make
 sure
that
it
was
fit
for
anyother
long
journey.
 


Gilgit
is
the
biggest
town
of
northern
areas.
You
will
find
all
the
travelers
to
north
 stopping
in
this
city
for
some
time
for
passing
by
or
collecting
supplies
etc.
This
 town
is
at
the
banks
of
Gilgit
river
which
the
falls
into
the
Great
Indus
River.
The
 Gizer
river
that
started
from
Shandur
falls
into
the
Gilgit
River.
In
Gilgit
you
will
 find
 people
 from
 all
 nationalities,
 famous
 hikers
 and
 good
 hotels.
 Gilgit
 and
 Skardu
are
the
two
hubs
for
all
sorts
of
activities
in
the
North.
Several
climbers
 come
to
the
nortern
areas
to
climb
many
8000ers
Pakistan
offers
including
K2,
 Nanga
Parbat
and
many
more.
 
 Many
years
back
I
camped
at
the
Chinar
Bagh
(Chinar
Garden)
sitting
next
to
the
 river.
That
was
my
first
ever
camping
trip
when
I
was
in
grade
12
in
1988.
That
 was
 an
 unforgetable
 trip
 (separate
 blog).
 We
 went
 to
 the
 same
 spot
 and
 then
 pitched
our
tent.
This
is
a
picturesque
setting
spot.
There
was
another
group
of
 scouts
 already
 camping
 there.
 I
 was
 very
 encouraged
 to
 see
 young
 children
 involved
in
this
activity.
They
were
all
in
their
early
teens
and
had
one
teacher
 with
them.
We
went
to
the
city
for
dinner
and
came
back
to
the
camp
in
the
dark.
 The
 young
 scouts
 wanted
 to
 hear
 our
 travel
 stories
 which
 we
 happily
 shared
 with
them.
We
became
heroes
for
them
because
they
had
not
heard
of
such
trip
 or
such
people
before.
We
enjoyed
with
them
until
late.
We
sung
songs,
played
 games
and
entertained
them
with
travel
tips
and
stories.
We
had
a
peaceful
night
 after
some
many.
 
 
 DAY10
 We
 got
 up
 early
 as
 usual
 and
 enjoyed
 the
 morning.
 After
 finishing
 the
 usual
 routine
 we
 were
 packed
 and
 ready
 for
 our
 next
 destination.
 Our
 next
 stop
 was
 Hunza
Valley.
The
kids
had
to
leave
for
some
place
as
well.
Once
they
knew
we
 were
going
to
Hunza
they
also
decided
to
go
to
Hunza.
 
 We
drove
all
the
way
on
Tarmac
and
watched
the
amazing
scenery
on
the
way.
 The
most
beautiful
spot
is
when
we
saw
the
Rakaposhi,
one
of
the
most
beautiful
 mountains
 in
 the
 Karakuroms
 standing
 high
 at
 7788
 m
 above
 sea
 level
 ranked
 27th
in
the
world
and
12th
in
Pakistan.
Most
of
the
times
it
is
covered
with
mist
 and
one
has
to
lucky
like
us
to
have
a
full
view
of
the
mountain
from
this
side.
It
 is
located
in
the
Nagar
Valley.
 
 The
 road
 curves
 around
 Hunza
 River
 changing
 views
 and
 offering
 spectacular
 scenery.
Its
not
a
long
drive
and
takes
about
2‐3
hours
unless
there
is
a
land
slide
 on
the
way.
Hunza
is
absolute
beauty
with
green
fields
and
orchards.
People
are
 very
hard
working
but
we
found
the
people
very
arrogant
in
the
main
street
of
 Hunza.
They
wanted
to
deal
with
the
Whites
bringing
dollars
but
not
with
poor


students
like
us.
I
had
a
similar
experience
when
I
came
here
4
years
back.
Its
a
 pure
tourist
little
town
with
restaurants
and
cafes
full
with
western
visitors.
 
 We
found
it
very
difficult
to
find
place
to
camp.
No
one
was
allowing
us
to
do
so
 and
 finally
 one
 hotel
 which
 had
 a
 big
 open
 space
 in
 front
 of
 it
 charged
 us
 reasonable
 to
 pitch
 our
 tent
 there.
 It
 was
 a
 very
 nice
 place
 over
 looking
 a
 very
 nice
 view.
 We
 pitched
 our
 tent
 and
 settled
 down
 to
 enjoy
 the
 view.
 Soon
 after
 that
the
group
of
scouts
came
to
camp
at
the
same
hotel
and
they
were
so
happy
 to
see
us
and
so
did
we.
 
 We
 spent
 the
 day
 exploring
 Hunza
 and
 collected
 some
 memories
 from
 my
 last
 trip
 in
 which
 we
 also
 hike
 upto
 Ultar.
 There
 are
 many
 trekking
 routes
 arround
 here.
Nagar
is
the
other
valley
on
the
other
side
of
Hunza
River
and
equally
rich
 in
terms
of
beauty
and
routes.
There
is
an
amazing
thing
about
Hunza
water
as
it
 is
 of
 grey
 color.
 One
 would
 think
 that
 it
 is
 dirty
 but
 dirt
 never
 settles
 down
 because
its
not
dirt
rather
the
water
is
full
of
minerals
and
Hunza
people
believe
 that
 their
 long
 life
 secret
 is
 hidden
 in
 drinking
 this
 water.
 We
 drank
 a
 lot
 of
 Hunza
water
in
this
trip.
 
 The
 evening
 was
 cool
 and
 entertaining
 because
 of
 the
 people
 in
 the
 town.
 A
 number
of
groups
were
coming
back
from
trekking,
enjoying
in
the
cafes,
having
 dinner
in
the
restaurants.
We
had
great
chat
with
number
of
people
and
enjoyed
 the
evening
relaxing
and
sight
seeing.
The
scouts
were
happy
to
tag
along
and
we
 didnt
disappoint
them
and
let
them
come
with
us
wherever
we
went.
Everybody
 was
 up
 late
 at
 night
 and
 were
 having
 great
 time.
 We
 became
 story
 tellers
 that
 night
and
were
telling
our
travellogue
to
others
who
were
interested
in
knowing
 about
it.
It
was
excellent
environment,
we
were
sitting
at
a
place
surrounded
by
 trees
and
we
had
a
view
far
into
the
valley.
The
sleep
was
good.
 
 DAY11
 We
had
a
short
ride
back
to
Gilgit,
therefore
we
spent
more
time
arround
Hunza
 for
exploration
and
wanted
to
absorb
as
much
beauty
into
our
eyes
as
possible.
 This
was
my
second
trip
to
this
place
and
it
impressed
me
even
more
than
the
 first
trip.
The
whole
northern
areas
carry
some
sort
of
magnetic
attraction
that
 every
summer
I
visit
different
areas
and
still
wanted
to
come
back.
 
 The
 drive
 back
 to
 Gilgit
 was
 very
 nice
 and
 pleasurable.
 Gilgit
 is
 always
 a
 good
 place
to
roam
around
as
there
are
many
area
within
one
hour
of
drive
from
this
 town
that
one
could
spend
a
few
days
to
finish
the
attraction.
All
the
attractions
 are
 natural
 except
 some
 Buddhist
 engravements
 high
 on
 the
 mountains;
 this
 place
 is
 about
 10
 kilometers
 from
 Gilgit.
 That
 shows
 some
 signs
 of
 Buddhist


settlements
 here
 hundreds
 of
 years
 ago.
 There
 are
 a
 few
 amazing
 hanging
 bridges
to
appreciate
the
man
made
marvels.
There
is
some
awesome
scenery
to
 watch
around
this
town.
Many
hiking
treks
start
from
here
and
around.
There
is
 an
amazing
village
of
Naltar
not
far
from
here.
We
hiked
up
to
two
lakes
in
Naltar
 and
 the
 beauty
 was
 unmatchable
 in
 1988.
 Because
 of
 all
 this
 Gilgit
 holds
 importance
 in
 the
 northern
 areas
 also
 being
 the
 largest
 town
 falling
 on
 Karakorum
Highway.
 
 Karakorum
 Highway
 also
 known
 as
 the
 9th
 wonder
 of
 the
 world
 was
 build
 by
 Pakistan
 and
 Chine
 and
 it
 is
 the
 highest
 international
 highway
 crossing
 into
 China
 at
 16002
 feet
 above
 sea
 level.
 There
 is
 no
 other
 highway
 that
 is
 also
 an
 International
 border
 at
 this
 height.
 This
 route
 is
 also
 known
 as
 the
 Silk
 route
 used
 for
 centuries
 to
 reach
 Central
 Asia.
 Silk
 Road
 is
 1300
 Kilometers
 starting
 from
Havaliean
closer
to
Abotabad
city
in
the
province
of
NWFP
and
goes
upto
to
 Kashghar
 a
 city
 in
 the
 province
 of
 Xinjiang.
 This
 engineering
 marvel
 took
 20
 years
 to
 build
 and
 1000
 people
 lost
 their
 lives
 while
 building
 it.
 The
 road
 goes
 through
 one
 of
 the
 toughest
 terrains
 in
 the
 world
 and
 crosses
 through
 the
 famous
 Karakorum
 and
 Himalaya
 Mountains
 ranges.
 Weather
 conditions
 are
 absolutely
 extreme
 on
 this
 highway
 with
 areas
 at
 high
 elevation
 and
 temperature
dips
sharply
at
night
and
there
are
areas,
which
are
very
hot
during
 the
day.
 
 We
 were
 back
 at
 Chinar
 Bagh
 where
 we
 camped
 two
 days
 back.
 We
 were
 in
 a
 relaxed
mood
today.
We
found
one
guy
from
Lahore
who
was
serving
for
a
bank
 here
and
insisted
having
dinner
with
him.
In
student
life
when
someone
offered
 us
 food
 when
 never
 turned
 that
 down
 therefore
 we
 couldn't
 turn
 down
 this
 gentleman's
offer
and
promised
to
visit
him
in
the
evening.
He
was
staying
right
 opposite
to
Chinar
Bagh
in
a
hostel
provided
to
him
as
his
residence.
 
 Once
we
were
done
with
the
day
we
came
back
to
his
hostel
where
he
offered
us
 not
to
pitch
our
tent,
as
we
had
to
leave
for
our
return
trip
at
4am.
We
refused
 but
he
insisted
and
we
had
to
give
in.
We
so
thankfully
took
our
stuff
to
his
nice
 room
 and
 left
 for
 dinner
 all
 three
 of
 us
 on
 our
 bike.
 We
 had
 a
 nice
 dinner
 followed
by
Kahwa
(local
tea)
had
chitchat
sitting
in
excellent
environment
and
 fresh
air.
We
enjoyed
the
night
until
late.
 
 DAY12
 
 Our
early
morning
drives
had
saved
us
from
the
afternoon
heat
pretty
much.
In
 the
plains
we
faced
temparatures
over
40C
and
the
hot
air
had
been
biting
our
 cheeks
out.
It
was
terrible
at
times
and
we
had
to
take
brakes
to
cool
down
at
a


river
 crossing
 or
 stream
 crossing.
 The
 engine
 in
 our
 little
 bike
 needed
 rest
 as
 well.
But
we
fought
all
hazards
happily
to
accomplish
our
goals.
 It
 was
 early
 morning
 again
 and
 by
 4:30
 am
 we
 were
 on
 the
 road
 after
 saying
 good‐bye
to
our
host.
The
night
was
not
as
hard
as
we
were
used
to
therefore
we
 had
a
sleep
for
4
hours.
 
 As
soon
as
we
came
out
of
Gilgit
it
started
raining.
We
were
so
used
to
different
 weathers
by
now
that
it
didn’t
bother
us
much
and
really
enjoyed
each
drop.
It
 was
magical
driving
on
this
magnificent
highway.
Earlier
we
planned
the
day
and
 kept
it
simply
open
to
stay
wherever
we
felt
like
therefore
we
had
no
destination
 in
our
minds
today.
The
road
was
not
a
rough
track
but
a
long
way
to
Rawalpindi
 at
more
than
600
kilometers
through
the
mountain
road.
 
 The
 rain
 stopped
 and
 we
 crossed
 some
 towns
 and
 high
 speed
 really
 helped
 us
 covering
some
good
distance.
At
Chilas
we
contemplated
going
through
Babusar
 Pass
 into
 Kaghan
 Valley
 but
 decided
 against
 it
 and
 continued
 on
 the
 Silk
 Road.
 We
reached
Besham
in
the
before
afternoon
and
some
break,
peaked
into
some
 shops
and
moved
on.
The
road
is
beautiful
with
The
Great
Indus
River
going
next
 to
the
road
all
the
way
out
of
the
mountains.
There
are
areas
where
road
needed
 maintenance
 due
 to
 landslides.
 We
 had
 to
 stop
 for
 some
 time
 at
 a
 couple
 of
 places
 because
 of
 the
 land
 slides
 as
 the
 bulldozers
 made
 way
 for
 the
 traffic
 to
 pass
through.
We
crossed
Batagram
and
still
felt
that
we
could
continue
closer
to
 Mansehra
city
to
camp
at
the
scouting
station
if
they
would
allow
us.
We
made
it
 to
the
scouting
camp
by
sunset
after
a
long
and
tiring
drive.
To
our
dismay
that
 was
closed
and
there
was
no
watchman
or
anybody.
Night
was
falling
in.
From
 here
 Abbotabad
 was
 about
 an
 hours
 and
 from
 there
 Rawalpindi
 another
 2‐3
 hours.
 
 We
had
turned
black
because
of
the
smoke
and
diesel
from
trucks
and
buses.
Our
 cloths
were
absolute
black
and
so
were
our
faces.
We
discussed
and
decided
to
 continue
till
Abbotabad
and
then
would
check
our
strength
to
continue
further.
It
 was
 dark
 when
 we
 entered
 the
 beautiful
 city
 of
 Abbotabad.
 This
 city
 always
 amazes
me,
gives
me
a
good
feeling.
I
call
this
city
the
real
gateway
to
the
North.
 All
 routes
 to
 the
 north
 start
 from
 here.
 This
 city
 itself
 is
 so
 pretty
 and
 offers
 amazing
 scenery
 and
 places
 around
 it.
 I
 have
 stayed
 in
 this
 city
 in
 many
 of
 my
 trips
and
would
always
love
to
stay
here
because
it
is
so
inviting.
 
 Something
made
us
continue
to
Rawalpindi
and
stay
at
one
of
our
friends.
So
we
 were
driving
towards
Khanpur
dam
another
scenic
route
to
our
new
destination.
 We
were
unable
to
see
anything
scenic
due
to
the
dark.
Driving
in
the
plains
is
 very
hectic
as
the
truckers
were
driving
crazily
and
nobody
really
cared
about
a
 little
tired
bike
on
the
highway.
They
didn’t
know
that
this
poor
thing
was
in
its


600th
kilometers
of
the
day.
We
made
it
to
Rawalpindi
and
the
last
few
hours
of
 journey
took
a
big
toll
of
us
as
compared
to
the
driving
in
the
mountains.
 
 We
were
dirty
mainly
with
diesel
from
buses
and
trucks.
It
took
some
time
for
us
 to
 come
 to
 normal
 when
 knocked
 at
 the
 door
 where
 we
 intended
 to
 stay.
 Our
 friend
 came
 out
 and
 to
 our
 surprise
 he
 didn’t
 even
 recognized
 us
 due
 to
 our
 outlook.
 We
 had
 to
 tell
 him
 that
 he
 was
 looking
 at
 his
 friends.
 My
 body
 was
 aching
due
to
the
cold
and
hot
air
kept
hitting
me
all
the
way
from
Gilgit.
He
took
 us
 in
 and
 we
 started
 cleaning
 up
 making
 a
 mistake
 and
 not
 making
 our
 bodies
 adjust
to
the
current
temperature
and
conditions.
I
was
kind
of
paralyzed
while
 taking
 bath
 and
 couldn’t
 move
 myself.
 It
 was
 terrible
 and
 I
 was
 scarred
 and
 worried.
I
called
upon
help,
my
friends
picked
me
up
and
put
me
in
the
bed.
I
was
 shaking
 with
 cold
 but
 the
 body
 was
 not
 moving
 at
 all.
 They
 wanted
 to
 call
 the
 doctor
that
I
refused
and
told
them
to
wait
for
a
few
minutes.
After
some
time
I
 was
able
to
move
my
hands
and
arms
as
if
life
was
coming
back
in
my
body.
It
 took
another
2
hours
for
my
body
to
become
normal.
It
happened
because
I
was
 driving
whole
day
for
about
18
hours
in
a
stretch
and
passed
through
some
very
 hot
 and
 very
 hot
 areas.
 The
 body
 needed
 some
 time
 to
 adjust
 to
 the
 current
 situation
but
because
we
were
so
dirty
and
wanted
to
cleanup
ourselves
as
soon
 as
we
reached
there.
The
cold
water
just
locked
my
muscles
and
joints
and
lucky
 enough
 to
 get
 back
 to
 normal
 without
 any
 medical
 help.
 Tough
 souls
 Tough
 bodies.
 It
 was
 an
 amazing
 ride
 in
 one
 day.
 We
 covered
 more
 than
 600
 kilometers
 through
very
tough
terrain
averaging
34
kilometers
per
hour
with
all
the
breaks
 we
had
on
the
way
to
explore
different
towns
and
areas.
Being
students
we
were
 feeling
so
proud
to
share
our
experience
with
others.
 
 We
 were
 served
 with
 a
 very
 nice
 and
 delicious
 dinner
 at
 our
 friends
 and
 we
 chatted
late
into
the
night.
We
slept
in
piece
to
get
up
late
the
next
morning.
 
 DAY13
 Owing
to
our
daily
routine,
despite
sleeping
very
late
we
both
were
up
early.
Had
 a
little
leasure
before
we
were
ready
for
our
next
destination
i.e.
Gujrat.
We
had
 to
 travel
 on
 the
 Grand
 Trunk
 Road
 towards
 Lahore
 and
 planned
 to
 break
 our
 journey
at
Gujrat
just
two
hours
away
from
Lahore.
 
 We
started
late
with
a
heavy
home
made
breakfast.
Had
a
round
of
the
city
and
 started
on
GT
road.
It
was
about
3.5
hours
drive
but
we
covered
it
in
5
hours
due
 to
 hour
 interest
 in
 exploring
 each
 town
 that
 we
 pass.
 We
 made
 it
 to
 Gujrat
 for
 another
 comfortable
 evening
 and
 a
 late
 night
 meeting
 with
 hour
 friends
 there.
 Next
day
we
would
be
home.



 DAY14
 
 It
was
only
2‐3
hours
ride
back
home
that
we
made
it
easily
and
were
welcomed
 by
 our
 family
 with
 hugs
 and
 love.
 Every
 body
 missed
 us
 in
 the
 last
 two
 weeks
 and
everyone
was
eager
to
know
how
was
our
trip.
It
took
us
days
to
tell
them
 our
stories.
 
 We
had
collected
such
memories
that
we
would
be
cherishing
whole
of
our
lives.
 This
kind
of
trips
are
always
tiring,
difficult
and
high
risk
but
memorable.

 
 NOTE‐
This
travel
blog
is
written
from
memory
recall,
15
years
after
the
actual
 travel.
Things
will
be
much
different
up
there
at
the
time
of
this
write
up.