Beauty

Beauty: Concept and Care

Vaidya Pawankumar Godatwar Assistant Professor NIA, Jaipur

“Satyam

Shivam Sundaram”

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, and this is never more true than seen over time and between different cultures. Over time, our concept of beauty seems to fluctuate, particularly concerning people, sometimes favoring rather heavy individuals and at other times very skinny ones.

 In

different cultures, parts of the body may be purposefully exaggerated in the name of beauty, the effects of which might even seem grotesque to those of another culture.  For example, various tribes throughout the world use different methods to lengthen necks, exaggerate mouths, ears and even the shape of the head.

 Nevertheless,

there does appear to be certain classical concepts of beauty that are not inconsistent with many of our modern views, and it would seem that the ancient Indian concepts of beauty are not very different, at least in regards to the human form.  At the same time, Indians seem to have been just as influenced by beauty, if not more so, than we are in our modern world.

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Beauty is a subject of Socio-medical importance. From the ancient Indian and Egyptian to present, through all cultures and through the span of centuries, mankind has been pre-occupied with youth and physical appearance. Beauty has been admired since time immemorial.

 The

importance of Beauty and Personality is increasing now a day as it is a competitive era.  Everyone wants to stand at height and they require a distinct Personality which differ them from a crowd.

 The

increased demand of beautification is evident by number of Beauty contests, Beauty centers, various cosmetic items like creams, lotions, powder etc.

 Along

with increased demand of beautification, the problems are also increasing which cause damage to Beauty or Personality due to changed life style and polluted atmosphere.

Mud Pack To Restore Taj Mahal's Shimmer Sky News, WEDNESDAY MAY 16, 2007

The Taj Mahal is set to receive a cleansing mud pack to help restore the Indian landmark to its former glory. Indian officials are considering the beauty treatment because pollution is turning the monument's white marble yellow.

Some Historical insight…  History

of the Ayurvedic concept of Beauty may be understood by different subdivisions as –  Prevedic kala  Vedic kala  Brahmana kala  Samhita kala  Samgraha kala  Madhya kala  Modern Period

Prevedic kala :  Some

archeological investigations provide the evidences of ‘Mohenjodaro’ and ‘Harrapa’ culture where some articles prove their cosmetic importance.  The specimens like ‘Shilajitu’, Kajala’ and ‘Mirrors’ indicate that the aesthetic sense prevailed in that period.

Vedic kala : 

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In Vedic literature many references can be elicited in this direction. In ‘Rigveda’ description of the Lepa (local application) of following herbs is found –

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Bramhana kala : 

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There is a description about beautification which is also available in Purana like ‘Suryapurana’, ‘Shivapurana’ etc. Some of the lines are dedicated for the purpose of beautification and improving the health. In ‘Garuda purana’(G.P.Ka.1) various beautifying yoga like ‘Mukhakantikara Lepa’, ‘Kesha Vardhaka yoga’, ‘Keshakrishnikarana Yoga’ etc. are mentioned. Astrological point of view, description of Beauty of male and female body organs is also given in it (G. P. Ka. 1 chap.63).

Ramayana and Mahabharata : 

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The two great epics ‘Ramayana’ and ‘Mahabharata’ give ample description about Beauty of important personalities like ‘Ramachandra’, ‘Sita’, ‘Nakula’, ‘Sahdeva’ etc. ‘Lord Ramachandra’ during his 14 years exile in the forest was using the latex from the Banyan tree for the purpose of dressing his hair (Ramacharita Manas : Aranyakanda). In the ‘Anushasan Parva of Mahabharata for acquiring Beauty and popularity, one has to be doing Chandrayana Vrata in ‘Magasirsha Masa’ has been mentioned.

 Narration

of the bride ‘Draupadi’ during the time of ‘Swayamvara’ and her role as ‘Sairandhri’ or an aesthetician is another example outlaying the extent of cosmetic sense which existed in that period.

Samhita kala : 

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Samhitas have stressed upon good looking personality (external appearance) of the ‘Physician’, ‘Attendants’ and the ‘Patients’. Various terms like Sumukha, Sudarshana, Subhaga etc. have been used in Ayurveda (Ch.Vi.8/96) and their relation has been established with the types of Prakriti, Sara, Samhanana, Pramana etc. More over, the description of Dinacharya and Ritucharya also indicates the cosmetic sense of that period (Ch. Su.6). The description of dietary regimens and PathyaApathya is also one of the important factors which are considered for enhancement of Beauty.

 Ayurveda

considers the importance of Beauty irrespective of age or sex,  equal importance to health along with Beauty.  Only healthy body and mind fulfills criteria of a beautiful person.

 Charaka

has grouped different herbs according to their effects such as Varnya, Keshya, Vayasthapana etc. which add to the Beauty of an individual (Ch.Su.4/8).  Many hygienic performances like Abhyanga, Snana, Lepa etc. are stated to have beautification of the physique and the psyche also (Ch.Su.5/93-94).  Certain dietary regimens are also indicative of importance of food in creating and maintaining Beauty.  ‘Astauninditiya adhyaya’ explains and demarks the limitation of the healthy outlook, unhealthy outlook and sense of Beauty in it. (Ch.Su.21/3)

 ‘22

Upkramas’ explained under the heading of ‘Vaikritapaham’ as Alepana, Pariseka, Utsadana, Pandukarma, Roma sanjanana etc. (SU.Chi.1/68-78).  Elaborate discriptiopn of ‘Kshudra Rogas’ (SU.Ni.13) which are fundamentally related to Cosmetic science also support aesthetic sense of that period.  More over, Sushruta was the first person who established ‘Plastic Surgery’ like ‘Auroplasty’ and ‘Rhinoplasty’. (SU.Su.16/5-6)

Rati and Kama Deva

Dharma Artha Kāma Mokshānām Ārogyam Moolam uttamam…||

‘Kamasutra’  Physical

Beauty especially of females is described.

 In

Kamasutra four types of females as ‘Padmini’, ‘Chitrini’, ‘Sankhini’ and ‘Hastini’ along with their characteristic are described.

 Certain

good and bad qualities of nail and teeth are also described.

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‘Surupa’, ‘Yauvanastha’ ‘Vasya’. ‘Sikshita Stri’ is said to be ‘Vrisyatama’ where ‘Surupa’ and ‘Yauvanastha’ stands for beautiful young lady and ‘Sikshita’ indicates the complete knowledge about ‘64 kalas’.

SANSKRIT LITERATURE  The

references regarding the Beauty and the Cosmetics are innumerable in the Sanskrit literature, particularly in the works of ‘Kalidas’.

 The

heroine Shakuntala was using different flowers and leaves as ornaments; it indicates how the lady was beautifying herself for good looking appearance.  Especially Ingudi fruit was used to enhance Beauty, as antiseptic and for ulcer healing (Vranaropan). (Abhi.Sha.4/3)

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Kalidas has mentioned a complete description about Beauty of a young lady. He had not given importance to only physical Beauty but also mentioned virtues of heroine Shakuntala by describing her love and caring nature towards plants and animals, obedient to her father, having cool, serene and adjustable nature. Thus physical, mental and spiritual Beauty was considered as a complete Beauty of lady. Kalidas has used following synonyms for describing Beauty asManohar Shobha Ratna Priyadarshana Lavanya Kanti Subhaga etc.

 Kalidas

has also mentioned sun light (ultra violet) as a factor destroying Beauty and the drugs like Ushira, Chandana for local application to protect the skin in summer. (Abhi.Sha.3/10)

kNi<(pti[

li[G\kPiy@x[ gi[ri[cnix[p (ntiºtgi]r[.



Ideal feminine Beauty

tºv) Åyimi (SK(rdSni p±v(bÀbiGri[Oq) m¹y[ ximi c(kth(rN) p\[xNi (nÀnni(B:. ~i[N)Biridlsgmni Ati[knm\i Atni¿yi

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Slim Youthful With fine teeth Lips red like ripe Bimbi fruit (Coccinia indica W.& A.) Slim at the waist Eyes like those of a frightened doe Deep navel Slow of gait by the weight of the hips Slightly bent by her full bosom She is first and the best in the creation of the female by the creator.

“As long as we are not living in harmony with nature and our constitution, we can not expect ourselves to be really healed. Ayurveda gives us the means.” David Frawley

 Ayurveda

is not only the science of medicines but it is the science of the life and such all the facts of life are dealt with in Ayurveda.  The Cosmetic approach in Ayurveda is related to the healthy status of the body as well as mind. (Ch.Su.1/41)  More precisely it can be said that physical, mental and spiritual Beauty as a combined unit projects the Cosmetic sense of Ayurveda.

 Maharshi

Sushruta has described ‘Swastha Purusha’ as a person has equilibrium of the Doshas and the Agni with balanced and specific functioning of the Dhatu and Malas reflecting the physical health, pleasant condition of mind, soul and senses is the mental factor constituting the health (SU.Su.15/41).  Both the states lead to the healthy Personality which is the basis of Beauty.

 The

description available in Ayurvedic texts in context of Cosmetology in general and healthy personalities can be mainly categorized into three divisions as –  Factors determining Beauty.  Factors contributing towards Beauty.  Factors improving Beauty.

Factors determining Beauty Prakriti in generalized way Sara can be said as factors Samhanana determining Beauty. Skin Varna from the general Prabha aspect. Chhaya Pramana of various Angavayavas determines the organic Beauty. Dirghayu Lakshanas described in texts give the aesthetic sense and fundamental base of Personality and Beauty.

Factors contributing towards Beauty 1. Dosha, Dhatu in their normal functioning status contribute to maintain the Beauty.  2. ‘Agni’ in equilibrium state, by digestion and metabolism produces Bala, Varna, Ojas, Dhi, Dhriti, Smriti etc.  3. Similarly Matrijadi Shad Bhavas and Panchamahabhautic combinations contribute in creating inherent Beauty.  4. Age, Sex, Religion, Race and anthropology also have considerable impact upon the Beauty. 

Factors Improving Beauty Ayurveda elaborates description of adjuvants like – → Dinacharya → Ritucharya → Achara Rasayana → Various methods in the form of internal medicines like Mahakashaya → Surgical treatment like Plastic surgery, Vaikritapaham → Diet as Hitatam, Matravat, Sadapathya dravyas → Medicines like Rasayana, Ghrita, Taila etc are abundantly available.

Sharira +Indriya + Sattva + Atma =

AYU

World Health Day April 7

WHD - APRIL 7,2002

Epidemiological Shift due to Rapid Transition in Life styles Reduced Physical Activity Changing Diets

WHD - APRIL 7,2002

Emphasis- importance of fitness and a healthy lifestyle. Theme- The need for, and the beneficial effects of, physical activity Slogan - “AGITA MUNDO – Move for Health”.

WHO Definition state of complete physical, mental and social well being and not merely an absence of disease or infirmity (WHO,1948).

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Definition by WHO study group (1957)  a.

there is no obvious evidence of disease, and that a person is functioning normally, conforming within normal limits of variation to the standard health criteria accepted for one's age, sex, community and geographic region and  b. The several organs of the body are functioning adequately in themselves and in relation to each other, which implies an equilibrium or homeostasis- a condition relatively stable but which may vary as human beings adapt to internal and external stimuli.

Susthu nirvikaratvena avatishthate iti Swasthah, tasya bhavah Swasthyam -Chakrapani WHO Definition has been amplified to include the ability to lead a "socially and economically productive life" -(WHO, 1978,Health for all, sr.no.1).

Swasthya Sama Doshah samâgnischa samadhâtu malakriyâh 

Prasannâtmendriyah Manah Swastha ityabhidhiyate. (Su.sû.15/41)

Beauty careTaccha Nityam Prayunjita Swâsthyam yenanuvartate Ajâtanâm vikâranâmanutpattikaram cha yat. ( Cha. Su.5/13) a. Kshiya mâna Sharira Poshana b. Pratyavâya hetu parihâra

Ayurvedic approach to health & beauty care

Dina-charyâ

Attainment

Ritu-Charyâ

Preservation

Sad-vrittâ

Promotion

Rogaanutpâdaniya

Maintenance

Anagata bâdhâ Pratishedha

Restoration

Rasâyana Vâjikarana

Monitoring of-

A h a r a

Sharir a B r a h m a c h a r ya

N i d r a

Ahara (Diet) Ashta Ahara Vidhi Visheshayatana (8 specific factors related to Diet)

Prakriti

Desha

Karana

Kala

Samyoga

Upayoga Samstha

Rashi

Upayokta

Nidra (Sleep) Recurring natural function of the body

Sleep provides: Healthy body Strength Virility Sharpened Senses Long Life

Nidra (Sleep) Untimely & inadequate Sleep Fatigue Weakness Sterility Numbed Senses Other illnesses

Studies show that when people work at night, their biorhythms adapt only partially. - [Weibel, L., Follenius, M., and Brandenberger, G. (1999) Biologic rhythms: their changes in night-shift workers, Presse Med, 28(5), 252-258 (Feb 6)].

Night shift work has negative effects on work performance, health and social well-being,sleep, gastrointestinal, cardiovascular, reproductive Systems and psyche. --[Scott, A.J., and LaDou, J. (1990) Shiftwork: effects on sleep and health with recommendations for medical surveillance and screening. Occupational Medicine, 5(2), 273-299 (Apr-Jun); Luna, T.D. (1997) Air traffic controller

Normal Sleep pattern

Day

Night

Various activities

Sleep

Disturbance in Normal Sleep pattern

Day

Night

Sleep

Awaken

Kapha

Vata

Body more unctuous

Dryness in body

Brahmacharya Naishtika

Vaivahika

Controlled Sex

Regulated Sex

Protection from Veneral Diseases, AIDS

Follow daily & Seasonal Routine

Mental peace, Concentration, Education

Good health & spiritual Wellbeing

Swasthasya Swasthya Rakshanam

A PP R O A C H T O BE A U TY

Aturasya Vikara Prashamana

C A RE

Fundamental principles of Ayurveda

SAD - Seasonal Affective Disorder Winter Depression Lethargy Weight gain - Rosenthal (1984)

Shitena yuktâh snigdhâdhyah kurvate shleshmanaschayam (A.H.su.12/21) Shleshmâgni sadana prasekâlasya gauravam…

Prevalence of SAD- up to 10% of the general population [Gysin, F., Gysin, F., and Gross, F. (1997) Winter depression and phototherapy. The state of the art. Acta Med Port, 10(12), 887-893 (Dec)].

SAD becomes rare above the age of 50 (Predominance of Vâta in Old age).

Underlying mechanisms environmental variables, e.g. climate, latitude, light, and changes in neurotransmitter function that occur naturally with the seasons may be important -[Attar-Levy, D. (1998) Seasonal depression. Therapie, 53(5), 489-498 (Sep-Oct)].

Exposure to bright artificial light in the morning has been found effective in the treatment of SAD [Partonen, T., and Lonnqvist, J. (1998) Seasonal affective disorder. Lancet, 352(9137), 1369-1374 (Oct 24)].

This treatment has an effect on biological rhythms, helping the person to remain in synchrony with the daily light-dark cycle. [Increase in surya component of Pitta as opposed to the soma component of Kapha.]

Om udwayam tamasaspari swah pashyanta uttaram. Devam devatra suryamaganma jyotiruttamam

In adult vertebrates there are three significant clocks: the retina , the pineal gland and the suprachiasmatic nucleus of the hypothalamus. In human beings, it seems that the suprachiasmatic nucleus is the main clock driving cyclical changes such as temperature variations. - [Takahashi, J.S. (1996) Ion channels get the message. Nature, 382, 117-118].

The retina - Seat of Alochaka Pitta The pineal gland - Seat of Tarpaka Kapha The suprachiasmatic nucleus of the hypothalamus- Vayustantra yantra dharah,Pranodansamanavyanapanat ma, pravartakascheshta ucchavachanam, niyantapraneta cha manasah, Sarvendriyanamabhivodha…. -( Cha.su. 12/8)

Many of the physiological processes within us follow circadian rhythms. This rhythmicity derives from an internal biological clock as well as our rhythmic environment and rhythmic habits. Generally, there is a synchrony between these different processes and influences, but this can be disrupted by irregular hours of work and by long-distance travel, producing undesirable side-effects -[Minors, D.S., and Waterhouse, J.M. (1987) Circadian rhythms and their application to occupational health and medicine. Rev Environmental Health, 7(1-2), 1-64 (Jan-Jun)].review. Aviation and Space Environmental Medicine, 68(1), 69-79 (Jan); Costa, G. (1999) Shift work and health, Med Lav, 90(6), 739-751 (Nov-Dec)].

Disturbance of Circadian Rhythms Bio rhythms of people working at night adapt only partially Evidence Shows that night work has negative effect onHealth Work performance Social Well being Sleep gastrointestinal, cardiovascular & reproductive systems Psyche

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AROMAS COLOURS SOUNDS GEMS

“Matter is energy and what seems solid is but a static appearance of innumerable subtle moving forces.” David Frawley

 Abhyanga  Care

of individual body parts

Rejuvenation programme for the skin 

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Sun protection : Avoid sun exposure, proper sun-screener with SPF > 15. Daily skin care : Cleansing, Moisturizers. Systemic therapy : Adequate nutrition (proteins and iron), anti oxidants (Vitamins A, C, E and minerals). Cosmeceuticals : Alpha hydroxyl acid, Tretinoins, Hydroquinones. Habits : Adequate sleep and fluid intake, reduce / avoid smoking. Non surgical therapy : Massage, Face packs and masks, Iontophoresis, antigravity exercise, ESS for wrinkles, Toning and Facelift. Surgical therapy : Chemical peeling ( Glycolic or TCA), LASER, dermabration, dermal fillers, face lifts, blephroplasty etc.

Facial Treatment  Cleansing

: Ubtans etc.  Oleation Massage  Herbal Steam or Compress  Gentle Scrub  Cleansing or Nutrifying Mask  Toning  Moisturising  Hydrating  Make-up

Some important herbs used in beauty care                

Kinshuka pushpa Rakta Chandana Laksha Manjishtha Ushira Padmaka Nilottpal Nyagrodhapada Plakshamoola Padma Madayantika Haridra Daruharidra Sariva Patang Kesara

Butea monosperma Pterocarpus santalinus Schleichera oleosa Rubia cordifolia Vetiveria zizanioidis Prunus cerasoides Nymphaea nouchali Ficus bengalensis Ficus lacor Nelunbo nucifera Lawsonia inermis Curcuma longa Berberis aristata Hemidesmus indicus Caesalpinia sappan Linn. Crocus sativus

Name of the Drug Sariva Yashtimadhu Haridra Nyagrodha Nilotpal Manjishtha Patanga Kumkuma Ushira

Chemical Property Constitutes Saponin, Tannin Astringent Glycyrrhizine Demulcent Curcumin Colouring agent Whole plant Astringent Palmitic, oliec, Llinolenic, Linoleic acid Emollient Manjishthin, Purpin, Pseudopurpin, Xanthopurpurin Colouring agent Glycine, Palmiticacid, Stearic, Linoleic, Oleic acid Emollient, Astringent Palmitic, Oleic, Linoleic acid Emollient Aromatic, Cooling

“A Good Face Is the Best Letter of Recommendation And The Cheek Is Apter Than The Tongue To Tell Errand.” Shakespeare.

“Life is a mirror. If you frown at it, it frowns back. If you smile, it returns the greeting.” Thackeray