Baltoro08report2

Baltor o Cleanup Expedition 2008 in continua tion of cleanup expedit ion init ia ted in 2006

From 6th August to 25th August 2008

Team Members Mr. Mahmood Pervaiz Mr. Abu Abdullah Mr. Shaharyar Mahmood

Report prepared by Shaharyar Mahmood Date: 9th September, 2008

Introduction The Cleanup Expedition was initiated by Alpine Club of Pakistan in collaboration with K2-CNR, Italy. The funds for the trip were allocated from the already launched expedition in 2006 for Baltoro cleanup. Assistance in the form of Porters, guides, cook and transport was provided by ATP (Adventure Tours of Pakistan). The team was led by two official members of Alpine Club of Pakistan namely Mahmood Pervaiz and Abu Abdullah. Our aim was to travel until Concordia and along the way inspect and clean all the camping sites including our final destination known as Concordia for required cleanliness, clearance and sanitation for campers and tourists. This is important since Pakistani soil is dry and any waste including biological takes very long time to decompose.

Travel Account The first day, dated 6th August 2008 we arrived at Skardu via flight from Islamabad. Our visit to Deosai Plains (Pictures 2 & 3) on the recommendation of Mr. Muhammad Ali Changezi helped us assess the expected weather conditions up ahead and acclimatize ourselves for the trip. ATP (Adventure Tours of Pakistan) helped us with the porters, guide and cook who accompanied us on the journey. It was decided that more porters will be hired along the way where required.

Picture-2 . Deosai Plains

Picture-3 .Sadpara Lake

a.

Askole

From Skardu to Askole (Picture-4) the journey takes about three to four hours and is a track that is frequented most often by the villagers of the surrounding areas. The first bridge bridge that takes us further on this track was broken (Picture-5). Crossing over by foot or jeep is dangerous and care has to be taken to avoid any accident. As we started moving on we came across a broken pathway which due to excessive rain had been swept away (Picture-6). There was no way of crossing over other than by establishing a crossover. A temporary bridge by using a tree trunk was laid down for all to cross over on to the other side (Picture-7). Askole village lies just up ahead. This historial village, no well-populated has grown and the people have taken good care to maintain its surroundings. Any suitable open area can be utilized for camping purposes upon payment of certain amount of rent to the local residents. New hotels are also being constructed which will provide an alternative. The place where we camped was owned by ATP so we did not have to pay any extra money to the local residents. Our camping site is close to a local Hotel and a shop. Owing to its nature the area is not as clean as one would expect. Apart from this, one can camp anywhere by paying appropriately to the local residents. Just close to the main village is a water stream enclosed by rock formation which is used by both the villagers and campers for washing and cleaning purposes. Campers need to be careful when using this place for bathing since it is the main source of water for the local residents. Dumping any garbage in or around the water stream will surely lead to water pollution and sanitation problems. Early next morning we started on foot. Treading the rocky terrain and crossing over Biafo Bridge we took our path towards Baltoro.

Picture-4 . Leaving for Askole

Picture-5. Broken bridge leading to Askole Village

Picture-6. Path broken by river water

Picture-7. Temporary Cross over created using tree trunk

b.

Krofong

Krofong is the first main camping sit after Askole village. Beside the camping area lies a stream of clear running water (Picture-8). We found the surroundings of the camp site littered with garbage and the stream running through the camp site polluted by animal waste. This camp site can very easily be kept in order if the campers take proper care at proper time. The adjoining area of land near the river was littered with human and animal faeces in such abundance that stepping in that area is virtually impossible without care. Proper pits need to be constructed and appropriately covered up as soon as the Campers leave the area. This approach can well prove better than construction of toilets which have a deep pit and bad odour is unavoidable as pits start to fill up with excessive waste.

Picture-8. Stream of water near Army camp site at Krofong

c.

Jhola

Johla is the first proper camping site (Picture-9). This site and others such like this one are under the direct supervision and care of MGPO. These sites have been equipped with all the required amenities for campers. The toilets and water facilities are all very well kept. The only problem is the waste disposal habits of the care-takers who usually dispose of the waste inappropriately in the flowing stream near the camp site (Picture10). These sites have been equipped with Solar panels for providing energy. This facility at only Jhola was working properly and that also partially. One light just in front of the MGPO office was observed to be working.

Picture-9. Jhola Camp Site

Picture-10. Garbage at Jhola Site

d.

Bardumal

Bardumal (Picture-11) which is about 3-4 hours away from Jola on the other hand is open area where campers come and stay. There is a flowing stream of water beside the camp area. The area lacks proper sanitation facility and is dirty owing to human and animal waste littered all around the camping area.

Picture-11. Camp Site at Bardumal

e.

Paiyu

Paiyu which is 2-4 hrs away is quite similar to Jolla comes next after Bardumal. The camping site unfortunately was devastated. The Solar Panels were dysfunctional. The toilet facilities are available but are unclean. The lighting bulbs are mostly missing from their holders surrounding the camp site. The water tap sites and the flowing streams were littered with all sorts of waste mostly left over by the campers in the form of paper, plastic bags, glass and tins. The situation of Toilet site cannot well be explained as the place was stinking with bad odor due to human waste. Paiyu in general requires serious attention from MGPO who are responsible for the site as caretakers. The Campers should also be careful not to throw waste without proper disposal.

f.

Khobutsi

From Paiyu our journey takes us uptil Khobutsi (Picture-12) passing through other small camping sites including Liligo. The journey takes about five to eight hours. Khobutsi is an open area and most campers stay here for one or two days pitching their tents in the open areas usually surrounded by rocks and boulders. A stream of water flows near by is a supply of water for the campers. The areas surrounding the stream again have been used extensively by all sorts of campers for toilet purpose and are totally polluted. A little ahead of Liligo just beside the track was lying a dead horse (Picture-13), rotting away and emitting a stinking smell which was making the surrounding air hard to breathe in. The picture is shown in Figure-1 below.

Picture-12 .Camp site at Khobutsi

Picture-13. Dead Horse and emitting odour which was making the surrounding air difficult to breathe.

g.

UrduKas

The next important and properly constructed camping site lies two to three hours away namely Urdukas (Picture-14). The main problem was not unavailability of latrine areas but being a little further away from the main camping area they are not being utilized but instead the campers have inundated the surrounding boulder coverings, caves and sites with human and animal faeces and garbage. The surroundings do not present a welcome site and the stinking air is evidence enough for such negligence. Mr Mahmood Pervaiz got his ankle injured at UrduKas and was not able to travel. He had to stay here while Mr. Abdullah along with the porters kept on moving. Mr Mahmood Pervaiz had to stay here for a total of four days to recover just enough to move down to Krofong.

Picture-14 .Camp Site at UrduKas

h.

Goro I and II

The next stop known as Goro-II which comes right after Goro-I is six to eight hours away. The site is also an important army post. For this reason the site is in a relatively better condition. Goro-I overall was not found to be in good condition (Picture15). Campers were far more active in proper disposal of waste material compared to other sites. On Goro II unfortunately the water stream was totally polluted by animal faeces and was at the same time being used by campers for cleaning, drinking and washing. In general the camping area should be totally separated from where animals are kept. Care should be taken not to pollute the water upstream. Other source of garbage is the Jerry cans which are used to hold Kerosene oil mainly. Such metal cans have been left over by Army personnel in large numbers. Other garbage also mainly from Army camp were removed appropriately by our porters. The main camping site a little further ahead from the army camp-site was in no different condition.

Picture-15.Various garbage on Goro-I Camp Site

i.

Concordia

Goro II to Concordia takes about four to six hours. Concordia presents a large camp site which lies on top of the Glacier and is open for camping. This is the most important camp site of this region and the reason being the fact that the camp site is surrounded by many important peaks such that within a radius of 15 kilometers are 41 peaks higher than 6,500 metres, many of them unnamed. Being such an important and vast camping area it requires proper care and maintenance. There are numerous stone circles (Picture-16 .) built on the glacier. The camp site by and large was found to be full of garbage left from previous expeditions. The garbage was packed properly in waste disposal bags and brought back to Goro II over a period of four days. The porters kept coming and going between Goro II and Concordia over these four days. Later the garbage had to be moved from Goro II to UrduKas. Some porters also traveled back and forth between Goro II and UrduKas. The Garbage was later moved to Askole slowly and gradually. On our way back we hired two local jeeps transport all the garbage bags from Askole down to Skardo. Some porters found it more convenient to move the left over garbage by Army camp. Lots of garbage was still unattended on Concordia, Goro II and Goro I.

Picture-16 . Stone Circles

Picture-17 . A camp site on Concordia base camp showing frequent usage of blue jerry cans and just beside the camp site is garbage which is being burned using kerosene oil

Picture-18.Camp site surrounded by litter particularly plastic wrappers

Picture-19 . Camp site surrounded by garbage and animal droppings

Picture-20 . The blue coloured Jerry cans will be disposed by burning

Picture-21 .Garbage burning near camp site in Concordia

Picture-22 .Animal waste near the camp site

Picture-23 .Animal droppings near camp site

Picture-24 .Waste Disposal bags containing garbage

Completion From Askole the Garbage was moved on jeeps to Skardu and finally handed over to Skardu Muncipal Authority. Our Expedition finally came to an end after properly paying ATP for their services and flying back to Islamabad. We are deeply thankful to Mr. Muhammad Ali Changhezi for securing our seats on the flight back to Islamabad.

Sunset at UrduKas On our return

Camp-Site Management We would like to further some suggestions regarding camp site management and lay down certain rules and regulations for the future. At the start of camping season a trip to Concordia should be arranged. Since at the beginning of the season there is maximum numbers of tourists flooding the area. If care is taken earlier on and the first influx of campers are encouraged to retrieve their own garbage then other campers will follow. Team of electricians, plumbers and cleaners should be sent to on camping areas to check, repair and clean the area properly including all the toilet facilities, lighting and solar panels. Concordia needs to be visited and the teams camped over there reminded about guidelines and should be checked for proper compliance, Also they should be provided with waste disposal bags and drums to store the garbage properly. The drinking water should not be used by the animals and this area should be at all times kept separate from those of water for human use. The camp site should be checked properly and proper instructions in the form of temporary board signs should be placed where necessary. A clean up expedition should be initiated at the closing of every camping season.

Waste Disposal The Trekkers and campers are always encouraged to leave the area clean as they find it. This should not be left until the last minute. Waste processing is encouraged right from the start. Digging latrine pits is a common practice but appropriate location needs to be allocated away from the main camping site and running streams. Paper should be burnt, while plastic, tins, metal, glass and bags should be retrieved as they do not degrade. Lack of sanitation can result in spread of dangerous diseases. Also care should be taken not to dispose any waste in crevasses and river water. Carrying lime to sprinkle in the pit can surely dampen the stench. Human faeces can take a very long time to decompose and any bio-waste if frozen can take centuries to decompose. All members are encouraged to complete the burning process till evening before their next day journey. The practice of burning plastics is still being followed on the camp sites. This causes toxic chemicals to be emitted into the air. These toxic chemicals remain in the air and destroy the ozone layer. There is no natural known process that can effectively remove the toxic chemicals from air which remain their causing further damage. We encourage the campers that they should instruct their porters to remove the plastics instead of burning them and dispose them off properly.

Team members and other supporting members

Team leader Mr. Mahmood Pervaiz

From left to right Mr. Shaharyar Mahmood and Mr. Muhammad Ali Changezi.

From left to right Mr. Shaharyar Mahmood, Mr. Nake Nam (ATP) , Mr. Abu Abdullah

Porter Sardar Mr. Kazim