1 Backpacking Euro Info 4

Backpacking Europe info #4 of 4 (60 pages long (mainly covers Eastern Europe but also covers some Western Europe)) Switzerland – This country is pretty expensive, but beautiful. I once stayed with some relatives in Geneva for 2 weeks and I was able to see all of the surrounding cities and while having free lodging. If there is anyway to get free lodging, this is one of the places to try to do it. Swiss prices are still in Swiss Francs but I have tried to convert everything to Euro when I can. When I last checked, 1 Swiss Franc (CHF) = .6547 Euro (1 Euro = 1.5273 CHF). You can check the current rates at http://www.xe.com/ucc/ Zurich, is closed on Sundays, except the shopping mall in the basement of the train station. If you are in town on a Sunday, I suggest going to Lucerne for the day (about 1 hour away). In Zurich, expect to see a bunch of asylum-seeking African refugees who hang around in the train station. They may harass you, especially if you are female and make eye contact, and rather than saying anything to them, I suggest that you completely ignore them (even if they initially appear to be friendly). Make sure to see a church called Fraumünster. Another big church is called Grassmünster. At Fraumüsnter you can go up the tower for great views. Zurich is known for its annual street parade www.streetparade.ch (the world’s biggest outdoor techno party) which attracts 1 million visitors. It is scheduled for August 7, 2004. For the James Joyce fans, he was buried in Zurich (to get to the correct cemetery, take tram 6 (direction fluntern) and get off at the zoo – the cemetery is nearby). If you are a chocolate lover you might want to visit the Lindt chocolate factory (located at Seestrasse # 204, in the city of Kilchberg; tel (+41) 1-716 22 33, Fax (+41) 1-715 39 85. At Lindt, although you won’t see the actual making of chocolate, you will learn about the history of Lindt, and they give you a free box of chocolates at the end. There is also a factory for Sprungli. You can also try Suchard (in Neuchâtel-Serrières) which is about 90 min. by train from Zurich) and Maestrani (St. Gall, about an hour from Zurich). There is also the Chocolat Frey AG, (Frey is the Migros label) http://www.chocolatfrey.ch/index2.phtml Bresteneggstrasse, in the town of Buchs which is about an hour from Zurich. Tel: 062 836 26 26). They offer free 3 hour guided tours (Jan – June and mid August – November Monday - Thursday mornings beginning at 9:00 a.m.) on which you see the making of chocolate and you eat free chocolate during the tour. From Zurich, you can reach this place by train (Zurich to Aarau) and then take the bus #1 from Aarau to Buchs. They also have a factory shop.

If you have to stay in a hostel in Zurich, try The City Backpacker, located at #5 Niederdorfstrasse, Tel: +41 (1) 251 90 15, Fax: +41 1 251 90 24 Email: [email protected] Web: http://www.city-backpacker.ch/ (great location). Expect to pay 20 Euro for a dorm, 60 Euro for a double, and 43 Euro for a single. Try Martahaus (renovated in 2001), located at #36 Zaehringerstrasse, (1) 251 4550, web: www.martahaus.ch email: [email protected] (in the city center – 5 minutes from the Main Station). Expect to pay 25 Euro for a dorm, 56 Euro for a single, 64-98 Euro for a double, 88 Euro for a triple. Or try Zic-Zac Rock Hotel : 17 Marktgasse, 1 261 2181. This is located in the city center and is ½ km from the train station. Expect to pay 50 Euro in this 2 star hotel. Also try Youth Hostel Zurich ZH (the webpage is http://www.youthhostel.ch/e/frames/home.cfm?ID=65 ) and is located at Mutschellenstrasse 114. Phone: ++41 1 482 35 44. E-mail [email protected], This hostel is just outside of town (does not have any lockers). Take tram No. 7 from the main railway station in the direction Wollishofen and get off at the “Morgental” stop, then 5 minutes on foot to the youth hostel. Or take S-Bahn (suburban train) No. 8 to Wollishofen and then walk over the hill for 10 minutes to the youth hostel (follow signs). Expect to pay 24.50 Euro per night in a dorm, 64 Euro in a single, 76 Euro in a double, 88-98 for a triple, 112 in a quad, 137 Euro in a 6-bed room Another option is the tourist hotel (60 Euro for students) #410 24 74 st. Karlquai 12 If you want to stay close to the train station, there is Hotel & Pension St. Josef, located at #64/68 Hirschengraben. Tel: 01 250 57 57; Fax: 01 251 28 08 · eMail [email protected] Web: http://www.st-josef.ch/ Expect to pay 55-88 Euro for a single, 82-115 Euro for a double, 128 Euro for a triple, 137 Euro for a quad. Also visit http://www.backpacker.ch and http://www.zurichtourism.ch Geneva – there is a huge fountain in the lake that is called the Jet d’Eau. Out of all of the places in Switzerland, this city doesn’t have much to offer young people and many might find it boring. However, the UN is here and some of the worthwhile sights include the flower clock, vielle ville. I also took an informative boat tour on the lake. A nice day-trip from Geneva, is Montreux where you should visit the Chateau de Chillon (an amazing 13th-Century castle on the shore of Lac Leman (Lake Geneva)). It was one of the most memorable things that I saw in Switzerland, and I would easily suggest this castle over anything in Geneva. In Geneva, some cheap lodging can be found at the City Hostel http://www.cityhostel.ch/ located about 150 meters from the main train station. Located at 2, rue Ferrier - Tel: ++41 22 789 22 93. It is a new hotel. Expect to pay the following: 19-21 Euro in a 2-4 bed dorm, 23 Euro each in a double, and 38-42 Euro for a single. All the rooms are equipped with a wash basin; Toilet, shower and a kitchen on the landing. Gabriela and Andreas Keppeler, run this

hostel. Email: [email protected] No curfew/lockout. This place is kind of institutional, but it has refrigerator lockers so you don’t need to worry about people stealing your food if you cook there. To walk to the hostel you exit the train station and turn LEFT and walk along the “rue de Lausanne” (always keeping to the left hand side) for approximately 5 minutes until you come across a Motor cycle shop. Turn LEFT (“rue Prieure”) and the hostel is on the RIGHT (“rue Ferrier”). If you stay at this hostel, you get 50% off admission to the red cross museum. Another hostel is http://www.yh-geneva.ch/en.htm which is located in the heart of the area called Pâquis (the area between the train station and the lake). Just exit the train station and go left for about 10 minutes on Rue de Lausanne until you reach Rue Rotschild. Turn right onto Rue Rotschild and the hostel is on your left side at the end of the street at #28-30. Tél. +41 22 732 62 60; Fax. +41 22 738 39 87. Expect to pay 17 Euro for a dorm, 75 Euro for a quad, 49-56 Euro for a double. If you are not a YH member, add 4 Euro to these prices. The hostel recently added Internet access (3 stations). Also I suggest avoiding the bars near the railway station, since they tend to be sleazy. I suggest going into the “old town” (ten minute walk). There are several bars in the old town which tend to have English speakers. Lausanne – neat churches and clocks. For lodging, check into the Lausanne Guesthouse and Backpacker http://www.lausanne-guesthouse.ch/ This place is about a 5 min walk from the station, located at #4 Epinettes. Tel: +41 21 601 80 00; fax: +41 21 601 80 01; email : [email protected] Expect to pay 56-61 Euro for a single, 30-35 Euro per person in a double or 2124 in a quad. They even have 3 high speed Internet stations, a laundry facility and private lockers. Basel – unless you are really into art, don’t even bother stopping here. Oh yeah, there is an annual International Watch show in Basel (I think that it takes place in April). If you travel by night train and are required to change trains in Basel (such as from Amsterdam to Florence) then plan on a few hours around 4 a.m. of sitting in the train station doing nothing. This really sucks in the winter when it is cold because the train station is not even heated. I have heard that the party in Basel for Fastnacht is fun. Lucerne (a.k.a. Luzern) – is a tourist trap, but does offer a cool covered bridge (Kapellbrucke) with paintings above your head detailing the Swiss history. The neatest thing this city has to offer is a lion that is carved into a rock mountain. It is called the Dying Lion and is a national monument honoring members of the Swiss Guard who died at the Storming of the Tuileries during the French Revolution. The lion has a spear in its side and a tear from its eye and it commemorates courage and self-sacrifice. The French offered to pay for a memorial to the Swiss Guard who died and the Swiss built this monument, but the French never paid. So, to get the French back, you will see the carving

around the lion is in the shape of a pig (the actual cave outline). This was the Swiss way of sticking it to the French. Lucern is one of the “quintessential” Swiss towns. It is small, and can be seen in a day. The Tourist Hotel Lucern is located at St. Karliquai 12 and is a nice hostel. Expect to pay 25 Eruo in a dorm, 49-79 Euro in a single, 73-92 Euro in a double, 90-131 Euro in a triple, 118-157 Euro in a quad. These prices include a breakfast bufet. This places provides you with access to the Internet, laundry, a bar, scooter rental, and balcony (with good views and space to drying wet clothes). Email: [email protected] Backpackers Hostel Lucerne www.backpackerslucerne.ch is clean and about 15 minutes from the railway station. It is located at Alpenquai 42.. Tel +41 (0) 41 360 04 20. Expect to pay 18 Euro for a dorm and 22 Euro per person in a double. There are no single rooms. It is closed from 10.00 am to 4.00 pm so either check in at 10 or at 4 pm. FYI- there are no lockers at the hostel. Interlaken – lots of outdoors stuff to do here. If you simply want to be in the mountains, I suggest skipping Interlaken and taking a train just a little further to Lauterbrunnen, Wengen or Grindelwald. Interlaken is a place to party and do outdoor stuff. Many Americans and Australians party at a hostel called Balmer’s Herberge. http://www.balmers.com/ it is located at Hauptstrasse 23-25, Tel: 41.(0)33. 822 19 61 Fax: 41.(0)33. 823 32 61. Expect to pay 16.50-18 Euro in a dorm, 20.50-23.50 in a double, 18-20.50 in a triple or quad. Take bus #5 from the West station or it is a 15 minute walk from either station. Another party place is the Funny Farm. I suggest aprtying at Balmers and sleeping at a different hostel such as the Backpacker’s Villa or the Funny Farm. Balmers is wild and crazy but the accommodations do leave much to be desired. At the Funny Farm http://www.funny-farm.ch/. expect to pay 20-25 Euro for a dorm, 35-83.50 Euro for a double, 28.50 Euro in a triple or quad, 63.50-103 Euro in a single. Backpacker’s Villa http://www.villa.ch/ is only a few minutes walk from Balmers. At Backpacker’s Villa expect to pay 21 Euro in the high season (MayAugust) for a dorm, 47 Euro in a single, 29 Euro in a double/twin, 27 Euro for a triple, 24 Euro for a quad. As an example of the pricing to expect, one of the activities offered is paragliding. At Balmers, it cost 160 Swiss Francs (133 Euro), The Funny Farm offers it for 150 Swiss francs (125 Euro), and across the street at Alpin Center it was only 140 Swiss Francs (116.Euro). Grimmelwald – Consider staying here for great views of the mountains. If you are not into partying, skip Interlaken and visit Grimmelwald instead. You get there by cable car, helicopter, or hiking. Stay at the Mountain Hostel http://www.gimmelwald.com/hostel.html . Expect to pay 15 Euro per night, but

they do not have private rooms. You can walk to Murren in 30 minutes. Email: [email protected] The following website walks you through exactly how to get to Grimmelwald. http://www.gimmelwald.com/getthere.html Grindelwald (notice the different spelling from above location)– stay at the Mountain Hostel. Tel +41(0)33 853 39 00; email: [email protected]. Web http://www.mountainhostel.ch/ The hostel is located a 15 minute walk down-hill from Grindelwald station, right next to the cable car station Männlichen and the train station Grund (Jungfraujoch - Top of Europe). Dorms range from 10- 26 Euro and doubles range from 17-33 Euro. Lauterbrunnen, is at the bottom of the valley below Grimmelwald. It is central for the trains, has a good range of walks, a good Co-op for food shopping and is cheaper than Grindlewald. There is also a good campground there. Gryon – cheaper option to Interlaken. The only hostel in this town is the Swiss Alps Retreat located at 1882 Chalet Martin. They have spotless rooms with breathtaking views. You can still find stuff like year round skiing, paragliding, thermal baths, in-house masseuse, and much more. They have a well equipped kitchen. No lock out no curfew; internet access ($6/hour), laundry. Tel 0041 24 498 33 21. Email [email protected]. Webpage - www.gryon.com . During the summer expect to pay 12-17 Euro for a dorm, 17-26 Euro for a double room (per person). Add 1.40 Euro tax for the first night. Credit cards not accepted. The kitchen is big but can get crowded because there are not many other options for food (there is a small restaurant near the station). Bern is German for bear which is the city’s mascot. The thing to see here is the clock tower and the bear pits. Bern is a quaint old town, but the city shuts down on Sundays. For those of you who enjoy weird signs, there is a village near Bern called Wankdorf. St. Moritz is very expensive and is a ritzty ski resort. SPAIN – Spain has opened the first leg of its high-speed train between Madrid and Barcelona (which suts travel between these cities from 7 hours to 4 ½ hours). In 2005 this same trip will be further reduced to just 2 ½ hours. 2004 is designated as the Year of Dali, so if you like this surrealist artist, then you will have plenty to see before 2005 in Spain. Keep in mind that September 11 is going to be a sad day for many, but it is the Catalan National Day, so you will see Catalan flags everywhere (especially in barcelona) and happy people demonstrating and nobody working (it is a public

holiday). Also keep in mind that March 11 is the anniversary of the Madrid train bombings that killed over 200 people. Hotels in Spain are called “hostales” in Spanish. (not to be confused with “youth hostels” which are called “albergue juveniles” in Spanish) . if you go to the island of Ibiza – plan to party. Expect to pay 45 Euro for a one way ticket on the ferry from Ibiza to Barcelona. Look into flying because sometimes you can fly for the same price as the ferry and you won’t have to risk the ferries being full because you didn’t reserve in advance. Check http://www.ibiza-spotlight.com/transport/ferry_i.htm for tickets and timetables as well as general information about the island and the club scene, and links to a clubbing forum. This is out of control partying and plenty of drugs floating around. If you are into all night raves, then you must give this expensive island a visit, but expect to pay about 35 Euro to get into a club, and can be as much as 60 Euro during some of the bigger parties. Expect that a Vodka Lemon and most other standard club drinks will cost you up to 10 Euro in a club, or 6 Euro in Ibiza Town or one of the pre-club bars. A beer (or water) will cost you 6 Euro in a club and 4 Euro elsewhere. Only the big clubs like Amnesia, Eden, Pacha etc. charge a fortune (US$20-$45) all the others are usually free if you get there before 11pm. There are no dress codes for the clubs. The longest lines at clubs are from 1:30 – 3:00 a.m. The pre-club music bars are much cheaper (no cover charge and the drinks are cheaper). If you are caught smuggling drinks into any of the clubs you will be kicks out and banned. Most people use either bus services or taxis while on this island (bus is much cheaper than taxi). If it is busy when you are there, then the clubs let ladies in for free. If it is not busy (such as the summer of 2003) then ladies pay full price to enter the clubs, which usually results in less ladies in the clubs. A tip for American guys, don’t expect to grind at these clubs. In general, unlike many American clubs, the ladies in Ibiza are there to dance and want their space. In general, Ibiza will be a very expensive place. Most people will spend twice as much per day in Ibiza than they do in other cities in Western Europe. A good figure would be 75 Euro per day. This island is only 45 km long and 25 km wide so taking a bus or taxi will usually get you anywhere in less than an hour. There are 7 major clubs on Ibiza: • Amnesia - located in the middle of the island, near San Rafael • Eden - located on the waterfront in San Antonio • El Divino - located in the Ibiza Marina • Es Paradis - located on the waterfront in San Antonio • Pacha - located very near the Ibiza Marina

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Privilege - located in the middle of the island, near San Rafael (this is the largest club in the world and they even give you a map upon entry!) • Space - located in Playa d'en Bossa, near the beach. Space is most famous as an after hours disco - i.e. it opens in the morning (although it also has good night time parties). In the off-season (from October until May), the only clubs which remain open are Pacha and El Divino. A more relaxed atmosphere can be found at Bar Savanna, Mambo, Cafe del Mar, or at Cala d'Hort. However, you probably should skip Ibiza if you want to relax in a calm environment – too expensive to do that here. There is a huge open market selling everything along the water till about midnight, & that’s where you can buy tickets for the clubs at night. Don't show up without them. Waiters in Ibiza Town also sell club tickets. It is illegal to sleep on the beach and the police patrol regularly. To reduce the overall cost of backpacking in Ibiza, you should look for hostels in Ibiza Town, San Antonio or Santa Eularia, the island’s three main towns. I personally suggest getting lodging in Ibiza Town. I would not chose San Antonio over Ibiza Town. The closer that you are to the marina and clubs, the better. As for hostels on Ibiza – try hostal la marina http://www.ibiza-spotlight.com/hostal-lamarina/home_i.htm (located in the middle of all the chaos down in the port) the cheapest you will pay here during June 15- July 14 is 40-62 Euro per night (for a single room). During June 15- July 14 a double will cost 52-115 Euro. Another hostal to try is Hostal Costa Another option in Ibiza Town (very close to the port) is Casa de Huespedes Vara de rey - Guest House http://www.ibiza-spotlight.com/huespedes/ located at Paseo Vara de Rey, 7; tel: / fax: +34 971 301 376. Email: [email protected] This small place has a great location. In the peak season expect to pay 37.50-40 Euro in a single, or 62.50-75 Euro in a double. Ad 7% tax to these prices. The cheapest hotels in Ibiza Town are in the New Town section, which is only five minutes’ walk from the main action. Hostal Juanito and Hostal Las Nievas (Carrer Joan d’Austria 18; Tel: 971 315 822) are clean and simple. Sol y Brisa (Avgda Bartomeu Vicente Ramon 15; Tel: 971 310 818) is particularly cheap and ideal for backpackers. Hostal Bimbi (Carrer Ramon Mutaner 55; Tel: 971 305 396) is a little further out of town, but right by the beach at Figueretes

You can stay in a hostel on the outskirts of Ibiza town at Hostal Islas de Bes, http://www.ibiza-spotlight.com/islasdebes/hostal.php in the peak season, expect to pay 70 Euro for a single, 125-150 Euro for a double, Also, there is a hostel right in the middle of the west-end called the El Corral. If you must stay in San Antonio, consider Hostal Florencio. Another place on San Antonio is Hostal Residencia ROIG (Carrer Progress 44; Tel: 971 340 483). You will pay 27 Euro for a single room with bath. Hostal Residencia Salada (Carrer Soletat 24; Tel: 971 341 130) is a relatively peaceful little place, and one of the cheapest places to stay in San Antonio. A few cheap hotels in San Antonio include Hostal Flores (Carrer de Rossell 26; Tel: 971 341 129), which has reasonably sized en-suite rooms and its own bar, and Habitaciones Serra (Carrer de Rossell 13; Tel: 971 341 326), which is a family-run guesthouse in a relatively quiet setting. In Santa Eularia, Hostal Rey (Carrer Sant Josep 17; Tel: 971 330 210) is close to the Passeig de s’Alamera and only a minute or two from the beach. All rooms have en-suite bathrooms. One more place is Hostal Cala Moli http://www.calamoli.com/ in Cala Moli. A great way to save money on Ibiza is to camp. One such place is Camping Es Cana, http://www.ibiza-spotlight.com/campescana/ which is located in the town of Es Cana (north east of Santa Eulalia). This campground is 300 meters from the beach at Es Cana and the town. Ibiza Town is 17 km away and can be reached by bus or taxi. Tel: 0034 971 332 117; Fax: 0034 971 339 972 In the high season expect to pay 25 Euro in a cabin, or rent a 2 person tent for 6 Euro or a 4 person tent for 10 Euro and then each person in the tent costs 6 Euro (so 2 people would pay a total of 18 Euro (9 Euro each) if they rent a tent. If you don’t want to camp, then another option is Hostel Jerez in Santa Eulalia Some more cheap lodging for Ibiza is listed at http://www.ibizaspotlight.com/hoteles/ibiza_hoteles_e.htm Barcelona. In Barcelona the nightlife is great. Although the club names change all the time, many tourists visit Mare Magnum. This is a shopping mall by day and a ton of dance clubs (each with a different theme) at night (located on the water). There's no cover charge so you can go into and out of them all night

long until 4:30. Don’t expect to find any locals here, but many tourists visit these clubs. This used to be a decent place, but it is now pretty cheesy. Maybe consider the neighborhood of La Rivera (a.k.a. El Borne). Look into Club La Paloma (on Thursdays), La Terezza, Dischoteque, or Arena. Also check out www.clubbingspain.com and click on Barcelona. Keep in mind that the clubs do not get busy until late (they can very easily be dead at midnight and not get crowded until 2 or 3 a.m.) A good bar is the L'Ovella Negra (Black Sheep) – located in an old castle – cheap beer – This is a crowded place to meet others and hook up. Many backpackers will love this place because you will be just fine in this bar wearing a T-shirt and jeans, but expect it to mainly be filled with locals with a few lucky backpackers. Hit this place before you go to the clubs! If you plan on partying hard, this town is a great place to do it. Be very careful of muggings if you walk alone at night on or near La Rambla (near the port area dance clubs). Try to go with others from your hostel. Especially try to avoid the area called Raval, which is east of the Rambla facing the seaside, during the day it is fine (there are some good bars and there is the MACBA - museum of modern art), but that area is often dangerous at night. The easiest way to move around Barcelona is to buy a T-10 (una de diez) which is a ten journey ticket for 6 Euro that works on all public transportation. They also have inlimited travel on the 1-day card for 4.60 Euro, 2-day card for 8.50 Euro, 3-day card fro 11.80 Euro, 4-day card for 15.20 Euro. Visit http://www.tmb.net/en_US/barcelona/moute/targetes/targetes.jsp for the up-todate prices. In general, most backpackers should get the T-10. A good place to eat dinner near La Rambla is called “Les Quinze Nits.” It is located at Placa Reial #6 (near Carrer de Ferran/La Rambla). Expect to wait in a line if you get there before 9:00 p.m. For some cheap (3 Euro) Catalan food in the Barri Gotic section of town, try Restaurante Bidasoa, Calle Serra #21 (Metro Drassanes). Just follow Calle Clave and take your third left. For a jazz club, try the Jamboree. They have frequent live jazz concerts and DJ’s later at night. It is located at Placa Reial (near the Ramblas), but can be expensive. If you like to drink Absinthe, go to Bar Marsella located at Carrer de Sant Pau 65, (93 442 72 63). Metro Liceu/14, 38, 59, N9, N12 bus. or go to Bar Pastís, C/Santa Mònica 4 (93 318 79 80). Metro Drassanes/ 14, 38, 59, 91, N12 bus. Barcelona is not known for flamenco or bull fighting, since Catalans consider both of these things imported from Andalusia. If you want to watch Flamenco, see my information below regarding Madrid. . You can save some money in this town by checking your bags at the train station and partying your ass off in the Barcelona clubs (all night) and sleep all

day on the beach. If this sounds like fun, then you can even plan to arrive in town in the evening. Make sure to figure out something for a shower. Otherwise, as for a party hostel, try Kabul but don’t expect the best security or cleanliness. Visit it on the web at www.kabul-hostel.com or http://kabul.es/nueva/ It is located at Plaça Reial 17, 08002 Barcelona, Spain -Tel: 34-93.318 51 90 Fax: 34-93.301 40 34, email: [email protected] Take the metro from the train station to the "Liceo" station, located at the "Ramblas". It is just a 3 minute walk from this metro station to Kabul Hostel. Expect to pay 24-28 Euro (breakfast included). Kabul does not take reservations. In the peak of summer your name might be 30th on the list even if you arrive at 7am, and they don’t start calling names until 9:30 am. If you really want to stay here, get there early (7 am). There is no a/c in the big dorm. Some cheap hostels are Hotel/Pension Fernando or Hostal New York. As for HI New York. (No HI card required) It costs about 9 Euro, but no breakfast. Equipped kitchen. (if you stay at fernando, you can sneak into Kabul for the free breakfast!) Hotel/Pension Fernado is clean, well-run and affordable. It is located on Ferran St (near Placa Reial), across from Kabul, which has a reputation for being a little less safe than Fenando. Penion or Hostal Fernando http://www.barcelona-online.es/locals/hostatjaments/fernando/ tel: 93 301 79 93; Fax. 93 301 79 93; (Right off La Rambla) at Metro Liceu. Expect to pay 15 Euro for a dorm or 30-48 Euro for a double, and 51-57 Euro for a triple. They have a snack and drink machine, televison, luggage lockers, internet and a pubblic telephone. The location is very central near to the ramblas, the metro liceu and many restaurants and bars, but it is also near Placa Reial which is not the safest area. There is a new hostel called the Sun & Moon Youth Hostel, located at Ferran Street, next to Las Ramblas and Plaça Sant Jaume. Thee are a lot of bad reviews about this hostel and the main complaint is that this hostel CLAIMS to have air conditioning but they keep it turned off. You can manually turn it on (the circuit breaker is in the kitchen, and some of the AC boxes you can manually turn on, but when the management realizes that someone in the building has AC, they go and shut it off again. I have also heard that this place is clean but overcrowded. Expect to pay 18 Euro in a dorm. It is a good locatioon (near the Liceu metro station and a 2 minute walk to La Rambla). A list of hostels in Barcelona with price breakdowns is at http://www.europeanhostels.com/fall/listings/spain/barcelona.asp Also, check out www.oh-barcelona.com. This is site offers apartments and rooms in Barcelona.

Another hostel is Hostal La Maritima (a pension) tel 93 302 31 52 located on the bottom of La Rambla (the town’s main street). Another option is Angies Youth Hostel http://www.angies.f2s.com/ This place is a two-minute walk from the 'Ramblas', and 'Plaça de Catalunya'. Actually, they have 2 locations. One is at Roger de Lluria #10, first floor.(city center), and the other is at Vallespir 32, ground floor. (Train Station); e-mail: [email protected] and e-mail: [email protected] fax : (00-34) 934-911-942; phone: (00-34) 934-112-137. If you are either a former guest or make a reservation, the prices are 20 Euro for a dorm, or 22 Euro per person in a double. Email [email protected] or [email protected] Another idea is Hostel Campi. It is located in the Gothic Quarter at Carrer de la Canuda 4 (the first left off Las Ramblas coming from M: Catalunya). (tel/fax 93 301 3545).. Expect to pay 22 Euro for a private single room (shower in the hall), which is a great bargain for the quality and location, and double rooms cost 44-52 Euro. This hostel is only half a block from Las Ramblas and if your room faces the street, you will have street noise. Another good option is Itaca Hostel http://www.itacahostel.com/ Expect to pay 21 Euro in a dorm, 50 Euro for a double room (25 Euro each), towels cost 1.2 Euro and breakfast costs 2 Euro, Internet access costs 80 cents per half hour. Tel: 93/ 301 97 51. Email: [email protected]. Located at c/ Ripoll 21, which is near the cathedral, a few minutes walk to La Ramblas. Don’t expect to party inside the hostel, you will do that outside the hostel. This place is very clean. Home Guest House www.likeathome.com is a decent place but it is located far from everything and that means that you will have to buy a metro pass. If you want a good hostel located in el Borne section of Barcelona (on calle Vigatans), look into Gothic Point Hostel. www.gothicpoint.com and email: [email protected] (they only have dorms, which cost 22.50 Euro/night which includes all-you-can-eat breakfast). A metro stop is located about a block away. This hostel used to be quiet, but has become popular and now can be quite loud. There is no lockout or curfew. Also they have free Internet access 24/7. They do not have a kitchen. Another lodging option is Pension Bahia www.pensionbahia.com (about a 3-minute walk from the Plaza de Catalunya on the top end of La Rambla) no curfew or lock outs and this place gets pretty quiet at night. Half of the rooms have balconies. All of the rooms have a TV andmost rooms have a full bathroom. There are 111 steps to climb and the prices are: singles cost 23-29.30 Euro, a double costs 39 to 59, and a triple is 52.75 Euro (which is 17.50 Euro each) Breakfast included. Again, you can see that traveling alone will cost you more in lodging. Email [email protected].

A new option (opened Jan 2001) is Ideal Youth Hostel http://www.idealhostel.com/. Tel: # 34 93 342 61 77; Fax: # 34 93 412 38 48. Email: [email protected] It is located on C/UNIÓ #12. Expect to pay 25-30 Euro per person per night. This place is not too clean and has some bad showers. The beds are made of noisey metal and the mattresses are made of foam. Another place is Hosteria Grau http://www.intercom.es/grau/ It is located at calle Ramelleres # 27, tel: +(34) 933018135; Fax : +(34) 933176825 ; email: [email protected] This place is located 1 minute walk from Plaza Catalunya, (access to 32 lines of city buses and 3 metro lines: 1, 2, and 3). Expect to pay the following: 21 Euro for a single, 41-59 Euro for a double, Another option is to stay at Alberg Hostal de Joves located at Pg. De Pujades 29. Also consider Albergue de Montserrat it runs nightly busses to and from the center of town all night. It is located next to Parc Guell (at the top of a very steep hill – make sure to take the bus). It is clean and is an old converted mansion. They have Internet access. They open the door every hour to let in party goers who are out all night. Another option is Pension Europa, located at #18 Carrer de la Boqueria; Tel: 93-318-76-20. This place is located less than 100 meters from La Ramblas, in the center of Barcelona. And one more is Barcelona MarYouth Hostel http://www.youthostelbarcelona.com/ which is located at #80 Sant Pau Street; Tel: +34 93 324 85 30 Fax +34 93 324 85 31; E-mail: [email protected] Expect to pay 23 Euro (this price includes breakfast). You will pay 2 Euro for sheets and 3 Euro for sheets and a towel. This place has security cameras to give you that safe feeling. It is a 2 minute walk to the metro station and a 5 minute walk to the Ramblas. I have heard good things about a B&B in an apartment run during the summers by this couple named Marie and Antonio who cook huge portions for you and give you a tour of town (and may do your laundry). Expect to pay more than the hostel prices. It is located north of La Ramblas (about a 7-minute subway ride from the main strip). Email [email protected] I have heard that a hostel called Alberge Paulo is cheap and has a good breakfast. Make sure to avoid Hotel Rey don Jaime I Although Let’s Go Europe recommends this place, I have heard several people complain about this place. Since there are so many other options, I would pass this one up. Also, I have heard bad stuff about the Hostal Dali http://www.pensiondali.com/ (also recommended by Let’s Go Europe). Tel.: +34 93 318 55 80; Fax: +34 93 342 48 68; email: [email protected] The complaints have been that Hostal Dali supposedly leaks when it rains and your backpacks get soaked, and the staff puts up a fight about refunding your money. The people at Pension Dali have

emailed me and admitted that they had problems with a leaking roof but that has been fixed. I suggest looking at recent hostel reviews of this place to see if these complaints have stopped. One option that some people do (and you might want to do if you have problems with finding a hostel) is to walk down La Ramblas (main street) and see if someone approaches you to rent their apartment. You might want to focus on the area around the Kabul hostel. If you want to camp in Barcelona, try camping Masnou, northeast of Barcelona, near the Masnou station. Another camping option is Cala-Gogo-El Prat, Prat de Llobregat, tel: 0034- 933 794 600. A third camping option is a big place in El Prat de Llobregat (just south of Barcelona) which is next to the the beach, but it is very close to Barcelona’s airport runways (so it is loud when the wind blows towards the campground). They have a shuttle bus to the railwaystation which is about 10-15 min from the heart of the city. If you want good lodging and don’t care about using the hostel to meet people, then you should consider staying in an apartment or hostal away from la ramblas, such as in the barri gothic or el Borne districts. Visit www.lovingbarcelona.com for some reasonable places. However, if your goal is to party and/or meet people at the hostels, then choose one of the hostels listed above instead. If you have extra time when you are in Barcelona, take a day trip to Monseratt, (an old monastery set up in the mountains. Take a local train (approximately one hour), and just outside the station is a cable car which takes you up. Wander around the old pilgrim trails, and check out the basilica. There is a black Madonna statue in this town that is popular. It is called the Virgin of Monseratt. Actually it is not in the town, but in a Monastery in the Serra de Montserrat. There are buses from Sants station, but it leaves there in the morning and returns in the evening. If you are not up for spending the whole day, maybe there are organized trips as well. Another nice daytrip from Barcelona is to visit the Dali museum in Figueras (90 minutes by train). In Madrid, you might want to visit the oldest tavern in Madrid: Taberna de Antonio Sanchez, Meson de Paredes St. Also, great paella can be eaten at Champagneria Gala, Moratin St. The State museums (such as the Prado and Reina Sofia) are free on Saturday afternoons after 14:30 and on Sundays. Clubs in Madrid can be very expensive and you will not find many backpackers in them. Most “madrileños” stick to bars, pubs, discobars and taverns for nightlife.

Expect three HI hostels in this town, all of which are located away from the center: 1)Santa Cruz de Marcenado (tel: 91-547-45-32YHA card required (they sell then at the hostel for 11 Euro and charge 11 Euro for a dorm; 2) Casa del Campo (located inside the park west of the Royal Palace), and 3) Albergue Juvenil San Fermín (located at Avda. de los Fueros 36, Tel.: +00 (34)917920897, Fax: 915005134 Email: [email protected] Web: www.san-fermin.org Juvenil San Fermín is located 25 minutes by bus to the Centre of Madrid (Plaza Mayor and Puerta del Sol or Atocha). To reach this hostel from Plaza Mayor, take Bus 23, and from Atocha, take Bus 85, 86 or 59. Expect to pay 7.8 Euro if you are youngerthan 26 and 11.55 Euro if you are older than 26. Other hostels are in the Sol area (Sol metro station) but they can get a little loud at night, especially during the weekend. Regarding cheap places in Madrid, try hostal encarnita - tel 91/531-90-55 and hostal lucense (near the san martin metro stop. near puerta del sol, expect to pay 200pts for a hot shower), and/or Pension Poza - tel 91/522-48-71 or tel 91/522-48-88 or hostel Gredos - tel 91/547-46-42 or hostel castilla - tel 91/31021-76. Hostal Carreras (near Sol and the nightlife of Santa Ana) located at #18 Calle Principe. Tel: 91 522 0036 (no a/c) Hostal Plaza d’ort (in the heart of Madrid) convenient for the nightlife of Huertas. #13 Plaza del Angel. Tel: 91 429 9041 Santader at #1 Calle Echegary. Tel: 91 429 6644 (no a/c) near the Prado. Hostal Gonzalo (in the historic part of Madrid) close to museums of the Paseo del Prado. This area is known for its nightlife. #34 Calle Cervantes. Tel: 91 429 2714 Hostal medieval – good for nightlife of Chueca. This is in an old house on a busy shopping street. #46 Calle Fuencarral. Tel: 91 522 2549. A new place that has gotten good reviews is Los Amigos Backbackers Hostel. Visit their website at http://www.losamigoshostel.com (it even has a 24hour webcam on their homepage). Price is 16 Euro per night for a 10 or 12 person dorm. If you share a 6 person room or a 4 person room, it costs 17 Euro per person. They have a 24-hour reception and internet access, and the common room had a cd player. It is located at Campomanes No 6, 4th Floor (left door), which is in between Pl. Santo Domingo and Opera metro stops. Tel +34 91 547 1707 Email [email protected] From the Atocha train station, take the metro: blue line(#1) up to Sol and then change to the red line (#2) to Opera. (You can also walk from Sol: 5 min. down Arenal street to Opera if you don’t want to change to the red line). Otherwise it is 6-8 Euro by taxi from the train station to the hostel.

Another good option is Las Murallas Hostel http://www.hostalmurallas.com/ Tel: (34) 91 532 10 63; email: [email protected] which is located at # 23 Calle Fuencarral, which is 200 meters from Gran Vía and a five minute walk from Puerta del Sol. This place is clean and has great prices. Expect to pay 20 Euro for a single (wash basin), 34 Euro for a double room (with a private bath), and 51 Euro for a triple (with private bath). From either train station, take the metro until you reach the stop GRAN VIA. A new hostal is called Hostal Metropol http://www.metropolhostel.com/ It has a good location (at the junction of Calle Montera and Madrid's Gran Via) which is located two minutes' walk from the Puerta del Sol, at c/ Montera #47; T. +34 93 2687808; Fax: +34 93 2461552; e-mail: [email protected] All rooms have telephone, TV and bathroom. A double room costs 22.50 Euro per person (breakfast included). Hostal la Macarena is a great option in madrid. It is located at Cava de San Miguel # 8, phone: (+34) 91 365 9221 / 91 366 6111, fax: (+34) 91 364 2757, Metro: Sol or Opera. They claim to be getting a webpage soon, so do a search. Expect to pay 57 Euro/night for a single, 63 Euro/night for a double, 84 Euro/night for a triple, 96 Euro/night for a quad. It's on a street (which is not too noisy) immediately behind Plaza Mayor (20 steps), a couple of blocks from Plaza del Sol and a short 10 minute walk to the Royal Palace. Windows facing the street have double window panes. To reserve, call first for details and then you will have to fax something in. FYI – this place is in a 5-story yellow building with white trim around the windows, and is clean. Another good option is Hostal Persal, http://www.hostalpersal.com/ located at Plaza del Ángel #12, Tel. +34 913 694 643; Fax. +34 913 691 952; [email protected] Expect to pay 60-65 Euro for a single, 75 Euro for a double, 105 Euro for a triple, and 120 Euro for a quad. This place is being renovated, and until the renovation is complete, I do not think that a single is worth 65 Euro in its pre-renovated condition. Here is a picture of what this hostal looked like as of October 2002. http://www.multimadrid.com/madrid_today/persal_construction_2002.jpg Also consider Hostal Pereda http://www.hostalpereda.com/ located at Calle Valverde #1 (2nd floor), Tel: +34 91 522 47 00 / Fax +34 91 522 47 09, email: [email protected] Expect to pay 45 Euro for a single, 56-71 Euro for a double, 63 Euro for a triple, and 3 Euro for Breakfast (continental). If you reserve on their webpage, you get a 10% discount. To reach Hostal Pereda take the Metro to Gran Via Station – the hostal is right on the corner. AddreAlso consider Hostal Paz, 91 547 30 47, Calle Flora 4 (1st and 4th Floor). Metro stop Opera. Tel.: 0034-91 547 30 47. Expect to pay 25 Euro for a single, and 30-40 Euro for a double. All rooms have satellite TV and AC

Try the Hostal Cruz Sol http://www.HostalCruzSol.com (36 Euro for a singles, 48 Euro for a double, 60 Euro for a triple – they also have a student discount) and the Hostal Santa Cruz on Plaza Santa Cruz, 6-2nd and 3rd floor, are in the same building (located just 20 meters from the Plaza Mayor) There are plenty of places to check out right around the Plaza del Sol area. Another hostel is at Santa Cruz de Mercenado 28 and it was fine. Not too far from the center. Close to the University, lots of places to eat and party nearby. Reservations recommended all year. Another hostel is Hotel Rivera; #79 Calle Atocha; tel: (+34) 914 296 130; Email: [email protected] Web: http://ocio.arrakis.es/hostalrivera/index.html This place was renovated in 1998 and has a/c and all rooms have a private bathroom. Expect to pay 30 Euro for a single and 42 Euro for a double & for an extra bed add 11 Euro. Another option is the Hostal Aguilar, located at c/ Carrera de San Jeronimo, nº 32, 2º This is located between Sol and the Prado. They have large rooms, including the bathroom. The website is www.hostalaguilar.com Expect to pay 35 Euro for a single, 47 Euro for a double, 63 Euro for a triple and 76 Euro for a quad. A new (2003) hostel is Ole Hostel http://www.olehostel.com Email: [email protected] From the outside it kind of looks like an apartment. This place is located in the district of Malasaña (downtown) which is known for its night life. From the Atocha train station, take the metro line 1 (light blue) to Bilbao. The Bilbao metro station is 100 meters away. Expect to pay 16-18 Euro which includes free linen and breakfast. There is no curfew,no lock out and a 24hour check-in. One more option is the Backpackers Hostel. Next to the Opera house in a quiet street. I have heard mixed reviews of Hostal Nuria (Fuencarral 52). Ok if all that you want is a roof over your head. Also consider Hostal Barbieri. Expect to pay 14 Euro/night in a 8 bed dorm with breakfast. Good location (in Chueca district that has great nightlife – but predominantly gay) and it has a/c, which might be the deciding factor for many people. This place is located in a nice neighborhood with lots of nightlife. FYI- the red light district of this city is north of Gran Via - especially Calle de Valverde, Calle del Barco and Calle Baja de San Pablo. There is really no need to be in these areas (especially after dark) so you should avoid this part of town (especially if you are female). I suggest that you look at www.madridman.com for a large number of Hostals and other information on Madrid (and other cities in Spain). He specifically recommends the following 5 places in Madrid: • Hostal López http://www.pair.com/navarro This place is located at Calle Huertas # 54 (which is now a pedestrian street and is located 1 block from the Prado). Take the Metro (line 1) to Antón Martin station and from there it is a 5minute walk. Tel: (+34) 914 294 349; Fax: (+34) 913 694 723; email:

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[email protected] Expect to pay 33 Euro for a single, 37-43 Euro for a twin (2 beds), 43 Euro for a double (queen bed) and 55 Euro for a triple. This hostal has air conditioning and is near a lot of nightlife. Hostal Dulcinea http://www.HostalDulcinea.com This place is located in the Huertas district at Calle Cervantes #19 (Also near the Prado). Tel: 34-91-4299309 or 34-91-429-4171; fax 34-91-369-2569 E-Mail: [email protected] To reach the hostel, make your way to Plaza Cánovas del Castillo (Hotel Palace) and the hostel is 50 meters away. The 3 closest metro stops are Antón Martín, Banco de España and Sevilla. Expect to pay 36 Euro for a single, and 48 Euro for a twin/double. No a/c at this hotel. Hostal Cervelo http://www.HostalCervelo.com This hostel is not far from Plaza Mayor, and is located 50 meters from the nearest underground (Metro) station, Antón Martín (line 1). Expect to pay 39 Euro for a single, 48 Euro for a double, or 50 Euro for a triple.Email: [email protected] . It is located at Calle Atocha #43. Tel: 34-91-429-95-79; fax: 34-91-429-09-64. This hotel has air conditioning. Hostal Martin http://www.HostalMartin.com This place is located at the same place (and has the same prices as Hostal Cervelo). Hostal Oporto http://www.HostalOporto.com Expect to pay 40 Euro for a single, 50 Euro for a double, and 65 Euro for a triple. This place is located a few blocks east of the Puerta del Sol at Calle Zorilla #9. Tel/fax: 34-91-42978-56, Email: [email protected] Hostal Chelo http://www.Chelo.com (located just north of Gran Vía at Horteleza 17, 3rd floor, Madrid 28004) tel (34) 91 532 70 33. e-mail: [email protected] All of the rooms have a tv and private bathroom. Expect to pay 40 Euro for a twin room, and 54 Euro for a triple room

I suggest avoiding the cheap (7.50 Euro) Albergue Juvenil Richard Schirrmann in Casa de Campo, Madrid. It is a hostel located in the middle of a park which is full of junkies and prostitutes at night. From where the bus drops you off, you have to walk through the park to get to the hostel. In Madrid, consider visiting CARDAMOMO www.cardamomo.net (Located in Plaza de Santa Ana at calle Echegaray #15) tel. 91/369-07-57 (Metro Sol). It is a usually a bar/disco but it offers Flamenco on certain days and there is a FREE live show every Wednesday night. They claim the show starts at 10:30 p.m,, but I suggest arriving around 9:30 p.m. to get a seat. (And don't be surprised if the show does not start until 11:30 p.m.) Also, next to Cardamomo, at Echegaray 17, is a bar called Los Gabrieles that has free live flamenco music on Monday and Tuesday nights beginning at 11:00 p.m. This place is up for sale, so it might not be around for too long. Another good place to hear free live flamenco is Meson de la Guitarra on Cava San Miguel (a small street on the west side of Plaza Mayor). This place doesn’t put on shows, but it is a gathering place for flamenco musicians, singers, etc. Fridays and Saturdays (2:00 a.m.) where you can expect spontaneous jamming and singing.

Also Peña Chaquetón on C/ de Canarios 39 (south of Atocha train station - Metro: Delicias) is known as thhe oldest true peña in Madrid, but it is only open on Friday nights. In Valencia there is a cathedral that claims to have the Holy Grail. Other than that, there's not much to see. Paella was invented in Valencia, so take eat some fresh and authentic any day around 1 pm. FYI “Paella Valenciana” contains meat rather than seafood. When I say meat, I am talking about chicken and rabbit and sometimes other stuff. Some good places to eat Paella are at Bar Mercado Rojas Clemente; Martinot (located near the port (their specialty is arroz negro); L´Estimat, (located at the Playa de La Malvarrosa) (great seafood paella). Avoid the place with the big color poster of paella that is located at the Plaza de la Reina (where the Irish pub is) because it is microwaved. If you need lodging, try the Home hostel, http://www.likeathome.net/ They have three locations. The one location at C/Vicente Iborra (Home Backpackers) starts at 12 Euro (Tel: +34 9639 13 797); the location at C/La Lonja #4 (Home Youth Hostel) starts at 14 Euro (Tel: +34 9639 16 229), and the location at C/ Cadirers #11 (Home Delux Hostel) starts at 18 Euro [email protected] (Tel: +34 9639 24 063) Regarding the La Lonja location, there is a nearby paella place to eat located directly in front of the hostel - they have a huge sign that says 2.50 Paella Valenciana. Another option is the hostal El Rincon on Calle de la Carda, 11. This street is located right by the Mercado. You can stay across the street from El Rincon at Hostal Pilar (it is a little bit cheaper than Rincon but nothing special), it is nice and clean. Also consider Hotels Continental and Reina Victoria (located closer to the city center). I have heard bad stuff about the Albergue Juvenile Las Arenas (8 Euro per night). This place used to be an old school, and is located 100 meters from the ocean, with triple bunk beds. Expect bed bugs, cat feces, brown, smelly water, and dirty bathrooms. Youth Hostel ciutat de valència http://www.alberguedevalencia.com/

which is located at c/ Balmes #17 Tel: + 34 96 392 51 00 Email: [email protected] Expect to pay from 12 Euro if you are

younger than 26, and 15.50 Euro if you are older (prices include linens) depending on the time of the year and your age. Meals cost 6.40 Euro. The Venecia Hotel (2 star) http://www.hotelvenecia.com/ihome.html located at Pza. Ayuntamiento, Tel.: +34 963 524 267; Fax: +34 963 524 421. Email: [email protected] Expect to pay from 99 Euro for a single, 110 Euro for a double, and 130 Euro for a triple. Bunol – this is a village which hosts the world’s largest food fight known as La Tomatina (held the last Wednesday of each August) during which you can throw thousands of tomatos at other people. Salamanca – This is a college town. Good café’s and most of the nightlife is centered around Plaza mayor. Consider a bar called Jacko's (they have liter size mixed drinks). Consider the pension at 5 Prado. It costs 14 Euros a night, is very clean and located 30 meters from the plaza mayor. Also consider the HI hostel “Albergue Juvenil Salamanca” http://www.mmteam.interbook.net/hiperocio/ (Located at Escoto 13 which is about a 5-minute walk from the main sight-seeing areas). Tel: 923 269 141. Email: [email protected] Rooms are clean but they cram up to 20 people per room), no kitchen, no breakfast, no TV room, no curfew. Expect to pay 11 Euro. Also consider Pension Lisboa, located at Melendez 1. Tel: 923 21 43 33. Expect to pay 13 Euro/night for your own room with sink. No breakfast, no kitchen, no curfew. This place is located in the middle of the main sight-seeing areas. San Sabastian – This is a Basque area, so tapas are called “pintxos” in Basque. Anyway, this town is arguably the most expensive city in Spain, but I believe that it can be cheaper than Barcelona if you are careful. The hostel is average. The location is fine, in a perfectly decent middle class inner city suburb about a 15 minute walk west of the center, but they have a curfew, which is a problem since Spanish nightlife goes late. Hostel Alai (Tel: 943 42 96 54, +34943424806) is the best deal in town and is located at c/ 31 de Agosto 16-2 (located between the city's 2 main beaches (a 510 minute walk to either beach). It is very clean with a kitchen, laundry and the man running the place (David) is very friendly. There is no lock-out or curfew. Expect to pay 12-23 euros (you can book online at hostelworld). Also consider Pension Amaiur http://www.pensionamaiur.com/ Expect to pay 35 Euro for a single, 45-53 Euro for a double, 72 Euro for a triple, 85 for a quad. It is located at C/ 31 de Agosto, 44 (junto a la Iglesia sta. Maria) Tel: 943 42 96 54 email: [email protected] Pension Larrea is also a good option and it is located at C/ Narrica, 21, 2nd fl. (+34 943 42 26 94)

Hostal Ozcariz, Fuenterrabia, 8, tel: 943 425 306 or Pension Boulevard, right off Alameda del Boulevard, or Pension Aussie. Also Pension Urgull Also consider Pension La Perla. (Tel: 34-943-428123). It was clean and is located next to the cathedral and within walking distance from the beach. Another Pension (habitatione) is called Joaquina Urbista Habitaciones and is located at Camino 4. Tel: 42 58 35. The lady who runs this place meets people at the train station. You can probably negotiate the price from 15 to 12 Euro (especially if you stay a few nights). This place is only two minutes from the beach. Tip - ask for a room with a balcony, and you will see the ocean from it. Another option is Pensión Donostiarra http://www.PensionDonostiarra.com which is very clean. They have internet access. This place is located next to the Buen Pastor Church and the Plaza Bilbao fountain. This place is not located in the old part of town but it is only about a 10-minute walk away.Expect to pay 75 Euro in a double, and 52 Euro in a single. Bilbao - Most of cheap accommodations are in or close to the Casco Viejo (old quarter). Look at Hostal Begona http://www.hostalbegona.com/ they have free Internet access. This place is a 3 minute walk from the Abando railway station and is located near Plaza Circular, at the corners of Calle Navarra and Calle Amistad at # 2 C/Amistad. Tel. (34) 94 423 0134; Fax (34) 94 423 0133; email: [email protected] Expect to pay 48 Euro for a single, 57 Euro for a double, and 63 Euro for a minisuite. Another option is the pension called Iturrienea Ostatua, calle Santa María. Tel. +34 944 161500, Fax +34 944 158929. Another option is Hostal Mendéz, located one calle Santa María. Tel. +34 944 160364. (The 1st floor has better rooms with new bathrooms, but the 4th floor is simpler (and cheaper) with many rooms having balconies). The Andalusia region is the southern tip of Spain which contains Seville and Granada. Seville - There are many zero-star hotels in Sevilla, and some are cheaper than hostels. The Apartohotel Resitur is well situated and costs about 30 Euro, but there are cheaper options, such as the youth hostel (but the youth hostel is kind of far away (especially from the night-life). Consider Hotel Madrid; or Hostel Sierpes (located at #22 C. Correl Del Rey (Tel: 954 2249 48 Fax: 954 21 2107 – this place is about a five-minute walk from the cathedral which is in the center of the old town and costs about 40 Euro for a double). This place is adjacent to Hostal Sánchez Sabariego (located at #23 C. Correl Del Rey - Tel 954 21 44 70) Pension Vergara (hostel prices) C. Ximénez de Enciso 11, 2nd fl., Tel: 954 21 56 68. Expect to pay 18 Euro.

Hostal B&B Naranjo which is located at #11 Calle San Rogue Tel: 95 422 58 40 (in the Santa Cruze quarter, close to Plaza Nueva) Expect to pay 30 Euro for a single, 40 Euro for a double, and 10 Euro for an extra bed. Hostal Bailen at #75 Calle Bailen. Tel: 95 422 1635 (in the Santa Cruz quarter. Hostal Goya at #31 Calle Mateos Gago in the heart of Santa Cruz, Tel: 95 421 11 70. They have a/c. Hostal Nuevo Picasso, located at #1 Calle San Gregorio. Tel: 95 421 08 64. Also consider Hostal Londres Located at #1 Calle San Pedro Martir. Tel: +34 954502745 or 95 421 28 96. Expect to pay 41 Euro for a single, 54 Euro for a double, 72 Euro for a triple, and 84 Euro for a quad. This hostel is a good choice and it is in the city center (near the Aramas bus station and the fine arts museum (very close to Reyes Catolicos). If you stay here, you will want to eat at the nearby Bauhaus (the menu of the day is served 2:00 p.m. – 4:00 p.m. and costs 8 Euro for a good amount of food). They have A/C and TV. Another choice is Hostal La Francesca at #28 Calle Juan Rabadan (Tel: 95 438 3107) near the river and the St. Lorenzo church. Also consider Hotel el Paraiso located at Gravina 27. Expect to pay 45 Euro for a single, 55 Euro for a double, 70 Euro for a triple, and 85 for a quad. Tel: 0034-93329-9378. Another option is the 12-room Hotel Lis, which is located at Calle Escarpin #10 (near Plaza de la Encarnación) Tel: +34 95 4213088. Expect to pay about 22 Euro for a single, 45 Euro for a double, and 67 Euro for a triple. Hostal Lis II is located at Olavides 5, 41001 Sevilla, Tel: +34 95 456 02 28, Fax: +34 95 456.32.02; Email: [email protected] In the summer expect to pay 24 Euro for a single, 38-45 Euro for a double, 55-59 Euro for a triple, and 72 Euro for a quad. The Cathedral is free on Sundays after 2pm and is located right next to the Alcazar. The Alcazar (where you can get lost in the hedge mazes) is free to holders of the ISIC card. Bull fights are 8-10 Euro (in the sun) or 26 Euro (in the shade) and take place on Sundays at 7:30 pm. You may recognize the Plaza De Espana from scenes in the latest Star Wars movie. From Seville you could see Granada or Cordoba as a day trip (but each town probably deserves a little more time than that if you can) if you take the fast AVE train train, expect to pay about $7 supplement with your Eurail. Seville to Granada is about 2 ½ to 3 hours each way and costs 16.50 Euro each way for second class ticket (if you do not use a Eurail). From Seville to Cordoba by AVE it takes 40 minutes and costs 17.50 Euro if you do not use a Eurail pass.

Granada - With a student population of 60,000 this is a college town that likes to party. That is why you can find good deals here for cheap. As for visiting the Alhambra (a sprawling Moorish palace), because they restrict the number of visitors, in the summer you should buy your ticket very early in the day (actually you should make reservations so you don’t even need to wait in line). If you will be spending more than one day in Granada, I suggest that upon arrival (first day) buy the ticket or make a resevation by phone. You can book in advance in any branch of the BBV bank, or telephone 902 22 44 60, or online at http://w3.grupobbva.com/ALHAMBRA/alhambra/home.html For the advance bookings you must know what date you will arrive. From the center of town you can take the bus #32 and it will drop you off right by the ticket office. The typical advice is to visit the Alhambra early in the day, but keep in mind that the tour groups arrive around 9:30 am, so it might be better to arrive later in the day. In the summer, they sell morning tickets (8:3014:00) and afternoon tickets (14:00-20:00) (no night sessions on Sundays or Mondays). Expect to pay 8 Euro for the general entrance and 4 Euro for the Gardens (open 8am-14:00). Your ticket to the Alhambra will designate a halfhour time slot that you can see the Palace Nazaries, but this is the ONLY time that you will be permitted in, so you should enter the Alhambra well-before the time designated for the Palace Nazaries. Allow youself about 2-3 hours to see the Alhambra. A typical custom in Granada is to have an afternoon/evening drink. This drink is always accompanied by a free snack called a tapa. Although you can get tapas in many cities in Spain, Granada is one of the few places where it is given FREE with every drink. You can literally go to almost any bar and get a complete meal for very cheap because all that you have to pay for is the drinks. In general expect to order about 5 drinks in order to be full of food. When I am talking about food, I really mean decent food. The tapas consist of cured ham (and other pork), hamburgers, seafood (such as fish, river lobster, calamari), chips, and even bagels. Each bar chooses what it will give as free tapas and many bars specialize in a certain type of tapas such as Moroccan, Argentinean, Japanese, etc.. I suggest following the local custom and do a pub crawl where you have a snack or two in one bar and then move on to another. For you cheap backpackers, I suggest the following. Head to Pza. Nueva and look for the bar called La Riviera (C./Almireceros), and you will get good quantity and quality. Then head to a bar called El Minotaur (C./Imprenta), just ask a local because this place is kind of hard to find, but the tapas are huge. As for the nightlife in Granada, there are two main neighborhoods to focus on: One is located around C./ Elvira and the other is located around C./ Pedro Antonio de Alarcoacuten. Give serious consideration to lodging at the Rambutan guesthouse http://www.rambutangranada.com/ Located at #8 Vereda de Enmedio Baja.

It is a small private guesthouse/hostel that charges 13 Euro for a dorm bed. The hostel atmosphere makes it worth being a little out of the way. They have a kitchen and even sell breakfast that is cooked to order for 2.50 Euro. The hostel is very homey and is located on a hill, providing great views of the Alhambra and the city. This place can be tricky to find if you do not get proper directions, so email the hostel at [email protected] and they will give you great directions or telephone (0034) 958220766 or 696104575. Because this place is popular it gets full quickly and can result in cramped quarters (crowded) and noisy. If they run out of bed, they will let you sleep on the terrace for just 6.50 Euro. Another good option is called Bumblebee. They recently moved to a new location at the Albaicyn (Albayzín), in the heart of Granada. Email: [email protected] The new web site is http://www.bumblebeeingranada.com/ Tel: (0034) 958 206 182 / (0034) 658 514 390 From train station get on any bus. From bus station take bus # 3. Get off the bus at Gran Via. Cross the street and take the # 7 bus to the Mirador de San Cristóbal (when you find yourself on a winding road and see a gorgeous view of the whole city on your right, press the button and get off at the next stop - the Mirador de San Cristóbal). At the mirador, there is a very small street that slopes down sharply. Take this street down to the end (only about a minute or two) and take a right at the end. The Bumblebee is the second door on the right, number 27 (Carmen de San Jose.) This place is very chilled out and relaxing. This place is equipped with internet (pay), TV, a DVD player, a stereo, a laundry machine, a library, a kitchen, arts and crafts materials, and a BBQ. Expect for prices to start at 12 Euro per night. I have also heard good things about a place called the Casa Salvador One more option is Hostal Atenas http://www.hostalatenas.com/ which is located at Gran Via 38. This place has air conditioning, and TV in the rooms. From the train station take bus number 11. They offer a 10% discount for online reservations. Expect to pay 29-31 Euro for a single, 48-49 Euro for a double, 67 Euro for a triple, and 81 Euro for a family room. Tel: (+34 958) 27 87 50; fax (+34 958) 29 26 76. Another option is Pensión Meridiano http://www.meligrana.com/portal/detalles/hostal.asp?cosa=3&id=1439055333 which is located at #9 Calle Angulo. Expect to pay 16 Euro in a dorm, or 27-35 Euro for a double. Tel: 958 250 544; fax: 958 250 544 Also worth a try is Hotel Niza http://www.hniza.com/ Tel: 34 958 225430, email [email protected] Expect to pay 29 Euro for a single, or 43.5 Euro for a double. This place is in the center of town. Cordoba is worth a trip. TIP - many of the sights are free on Fridays (the Mezquita is free before 10am – which will save you 7 Euro per person). An inexpensive restaurant in Cordoba is El Tablon, located at #79 Cardenal Gonzalez (near La Mexquita). Expect to pay 9 Euro for a meal with wine. For lodging in Córdoba try:

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Hostal Lineros 38. Web: http://www.hostallineros38.com/ This place is located at C/ Lineros # 38, Tel (34) 957 48 25 17 OR (34) 957 48 10 34, e-mail: [email protected] Expect to pay 30 Euro in a single, 48 Euro for a double room, 60 Euro for a triple, and 78 Euro for a quad. Their suite prices are: 78 Euro in a single, 90 Euro for a double room, 108 Euro for a triple, and 126 Euro for a quad. Hotel Los Patios, at #14 Calle Cardenal Herrero. Tel: 95 747 83 40. Great value for the location (directly opposite La Mezquita). Hostal Seneca, at #5 Calle Conde y Lugue (just north of La Mezquita) tel: 95 747 3234 (reserve ahead). La Fuente, at #51 Calle Fernando. Tel: 95 748 1478 (on a noisy road)

Malaga – There are two restaurants names El Palo. They are not centrally located but they both serve very goo typical local food. Portugal – Lisbon – See the tower of Belem & the museum of nautical history. Keep in mind that the Park Eduardo VII (near Praça Marquês de Pombal) is a little seedy at night. Near Lisbon is Sintra where there are castles. Skip Cascais - it is just a windy beach. Lisbon is one of the cheapest capital cities in Western Europe. You can hop on tram #28 and get a cheap tour of the city from the town center to the castle and the Alfama area. If you will be in Lisbon for a few days, you might consider the Lisbon Card – for about 25 Euro you get 3 days unlimited travel on the metro, busses and trams. The last time that I was in Lisbon the cheaper places to sleep were – Casa de Hospedes Duque – Calcada do Duque 53, tel – 01/346-34-44; Casa de Hospedes Lisboa – Rua Sao Juliao 11, tel 01/888014; Residencial Nossa Senhora do Rosario – Calcada de Santana 198 – tel. 01/885-36-50; Pensao A Moderna, Escadinhas da Saude 10, tel 01/886-38-00; Residencial do Norte – Rua do Norte 123, tel 01/346-50-68. Pensão Coimbra e Madrid costs about 20 Euros (Tel: +351 213 421 760). Also you can contact Carlos Ferreira at Residencial Estrela do Saldanha. He runs a clean, economical and well-located Residencial about 500m from Lisbon's main bus station, Avda. de la Republica, 17. One HI hostel in Lisbon is located at Rua Andrade Corvo #46, Tel: 21 353 26 96; Fax: 21 353 75 41; E-mail:[email protected] It is located one block from Metro station Picoas. Expect to pay 15 Euro for a dorm, or 32 Euro for a double. This place has a bar but it closes at midnight. The showers here are not always too warm. THIS PLACE WILL BE CLOSED IN THE SUMMER 2005 FOR RENOVATIONS. Another youth hostel is at Lisboa Parque das Nações, at R. de Moscavide, 47-101 1998 Lisboa Expo, When you exit the train station, you will be facing the Vasco de gama shopping center and behind that is the water (the Rio Tejo). Turn left and walk down that street (Avendia D Joad) about 8 blocks and the hostel will

be on your left on a sidestreet. Tel: 21 892 08 90; Fax: 21 892 08 91; E-mail: [email protected] Web: http://www.pousadasjuventude.pt/ Expect to pay 13 euros per person in the four-bed dorm and 30 euros for the double room. If you wanted breakfast it would be one more euro. Also try Almada Youth Hostel web: www.pousadasjuventude.pt. Email: [email protected] ). This place is located in Almada - Pragal, near the Almada Hospital. (Quinta do Bucelinho Pragal -2800 Almada); Tel: 21 294 34 91; Fax: 21 294 34 97. The hostel is built on the south shore of the River Tagus, next to the 25 de Abril bridge, it gives you a great view of Lisbon, but also means that you are not right in the center of the city. In the high season (June 16-September 15) expect to pay 35 Euro for a double bedroom with bathroom; 12.50 Euro for a “Multiple bedroom,” and 60 Euro for a quad (they call it an apartment). Also try Hotel Pasao "Duas Nacoes" http://www.duasnacoes.com/ in Lisbon (Tel: Tel. (tel:+351) 213 460 710; fax: 00351 21 347 0206) excellent location at #41 Rua da Victória; downtown, near Alfama (old part of the city), on the main commerce street. Two good websites that allow you to check hotels and hostel prices are www.maisturismo.pt and www.pousadasjuventude.pt (click on foreigners, and then click on contacts-youth hostels) I have heard that a place called Quartos is a very smelly place (mould/damp), and costs 25 Euro. Pensaos means the same thing as hostels in Portugal. If you have a higher budget, try Pensao Beira Minho located in the Baixa area. You can get a room with balcony facing the Praca da Figueira for 24 Euro or one without for 18 Euro. Includes breakfast. The rooms have a sink, mirror, bidet, desk and double bed. Hot showers too!!! Number is 351 21 346 1846. Good luck! Another cheap hotel is Hotel Suiço-Atlântico. This place is located a 5 minute walk from Rossio Square (the heart of the city). Expect to pay 40 Euro for a single room with private bathroom. This price includes continental breakfast. Nightlife is great in the Bairro Alto area of Lisbon. A good place for a cheap lunch is in the back corner of the Baixa plaza. The address is Pr. Do Comercio #3. You will see a place called Martinho da Arcada, which is pretty expensive, but the café next door has great prices for lunch specials (about 4 Euro) If you want to see something besides Lisbon, try Sintra, only a 40 min. train ride from Lisbon. Due to Sintra’s proximity with Lisbon, I suggest sleeping in Lisbon (because there are more options in Lisbon and the prices are cheaper in Lisbon, and Sintra is dead at nights). You can explore the city pretty well on tram #15. There is also a bus that you can catch at the train station that stops at all the tourist sites (National Palace, Pena Palace and the Moorish Castle). The

bus is a good idea because otherwise it is a steep climb. There is a small B&B across the street from the train station in Sintra that does not cost too much, but I can’t remember any details. Sintra has a hostel at Stª Eufémia, Tel: 21 924 12 10; Fax: 21 923 31 76; E-mail: [email protected] To get there, take bus #434 from the train station to Palacio da Pena, and follow the signs to the hostel (walk through the palace garden. Expect to pay about 10 Euro for a dorm or 2023Euro for a double. There is a youth hostel in Sintra (phone 351 + 21 924 12 10), but it is 5 km from the train station and not easy to reach. By the way, Sintra gets crowded on the weekends. If you go to the north parts of Portugal, they will be less touristy, and much cooler than the south. If you want to camp while you are in Portugal, visit: http://www.roteiro-campista.pt/ For a good Portugal railroad map, visit: http://www.cp.pt/servicos/e_mapa.html Lagos, Portugal – This is a good place to party, espcially since the only thing to do is the beach and nighlife. Some good bars are the Old Town Tavern until Midnight (for cheap drinks) Eddy´s for a crowded small bar but good times, and Bon Vivant after that. There is another night club called the Phoenix (6 Euro gets you in and 3 drinks). For lodging, consider the Rubi-Mar guesthouse in Lagos (it's a pensionne with 9 rooms and they bring you in breakfast to your room each morning). It is run by these 2 gay English guys. During the peak season, it costs 45 Euro a night for a double room with a bathroom or 40 Euro with a shared bathroom. These prices include the free breakfast. http://rubimar.freeyellow.com/ Email: [email protected] [email protected] Tel: 282 76 31 65 The hostel in Lagos is at R. Lançarote de Freitas, 50. Tel: 282 761 970, Fax: 282 769 684 E-mail: [email protected] Expect to pay 15 Euro in a 4 bed dorm (1 Euro more for a good breakfast) and 45 Euro for a double room (22.50 Euro each) and just 1 Euro to add breakfast. This is a good hostel and has nice hot showers. There is no curfew and it is easy to meet people at this hostel. you can book the dorm bed online at www.HIhostels.com and book the double room online at www.pousadasjuventude.pt However, if someone on the train offers you a place to stay, chances are it ´s pretty good. Even apartments that are outside the city center are still only fifteen minutes walk to the beach, and ten minutes to the city center. Another lodging option is Hostal Doña Ana, in praya doña Ana, (about 20 minute walk from the center of Lagos. The beach is one of the most scenic in Algarve. Expect to pay about 25-30 Euro with breakfast.

Faro This is a good beach destination in Portugal during the summer. Porto. On June 24,2003 there is a big party called the Sao Jao festival – expect a 24-hour street party. MOROCCO (I know that it is not Europe, but some backpackers consider going) Morocco is cheap. Food is inexpensive and hostels are cheap as well but at times you may need your own sleep-sack to avoid scabies or the like. You can get lodging for about $5-10 per night. I suggest the towns of Fez, Rabat and Marrakesh, Chefchaouen, and skipping Casablanca and Tangier. Bargaining is a way of life. Expect to be charged 2 to 3 times the actual price for something bought from a salesperson. Offer ½ and walk away. Knowing French, or Arabic is a big plus, and Spanish helps some in Tangier. If you speak one of these languages, (especially French), wait until there are no English speaking people in the shop before beginning to discuss prices, because the prices quoted to English-speakers are the highest. Marrakesh - Hotel ALi was fine. Great place to meet other travelers, and have email access. Fez – Fez is about a 6-hour train ride from Tangier. In Fez, the Hotel Renaisance is a very cheap hotel ($12/night for a triple) with smelly bathrooms, or you could spend $40/night at the Hotel Splendid and have air conditioning, actual toilets and shower and a swimming pool - breakfast included. The HI hostel is a good option too. Algeciras – it’s a port town and kind of swarthy. Tangier – This place sucks. If you only have time to visit this city in Morocco, don’t even bother, as it will ruin your impression of the country. This is not the type of place that you should visit as a day trip just to say that you have been to Africa – lots of crime (highest crime rate in Morocco) and beggers (Almsgiving is one of the five tenets of Islam, but there are also plenty of professional beggers). The street vendors are particularly annoying, and extremely persistent. There are also a lot of fake guides, who will rip you off. Also plenty of people will offer to help you out, and then expect a tip in return. Also you will be hounded to buy everything under the sun and you will not see many backpackers. I certainly would advise against a female traveling alone in Tangier. Not far away from Tangier is the beautiful city of Chefchaouen. Chefchaouen –nice and cheap. You can sleep for 2 Euro and eat a meal for 1 Euro. Regarding the schedules for the ferry crossing from Spain to Morocco, visit http://www.frs-maroc.com , http://www.comarit.com and http://www.euroferrys.com .

Scandinavia Denmark – Denmark used to be the cheapest of the Scandinavian countries (but that is no longer true). Well, the main place to go here is the capital – Copenhagen. To cross from Germany to Denmark, there is some water that has to be crossed, and it is really neat to see, because the whole train drives right onto a ferry! And you can get off the train and walk around the ferry. Anyway in Copenhagen, there are some cool things to see. I remember that when I was there I made a phone call and I noticed that the numbers are in a different order than in the rest of the world. There is the Calrsberg Brewery tour that is fun, and I also went on the Tubourg brewery tour. I went and saw the bronze Little mermaid (on which the replica in Havensight, St. Thomas was based). The Little Mermaid is a small statue that is frequently vandalized (September 2003 it was dynamited), but they always fix her. I also wasted some money and visited Tivoli gardens. This is a small amusement park upon which Walt Disney based his theme parks. I also took a trip outside of Copenhagen to Roskilde and saw the Domkirke, which was impressive. If you are in Roskilde from at the end of June, you can attend the Rock festival – the largest in Europe – but get tickets ahead of time. If you want to see a movie, visit the Imerial (Ved Vesterport #4). This place is a one screen theatre that holds 1,100 people. If you use Let’s Go, there are 2 sights that are worthwhile that are not even mentioned in Let’s Go. 1) an underwater statue, MUCH more impressive than the little mermaid. The underwater statue is called the merman and his five sons. The merman is located in the inner city between the strøget and the island of Slotsholmen (where the goverment buildings are all located). The merman is located next to the Kobmagergade bridge (the bridge between Højbro plads (in the center of strøget) and Slotsholmen). It is at your left if you're looking to the parlament from the other side of the channel. The statute is completely submerged and it is marked in the water by a yellow bouy and the wall nearby has three small blue signs. Also, check out Assistens Cemetary in Norrebro. Danes sunbath amongst the gravestones in the summer- HC Anderson and Kirkegaard are buried there as well. Copenhagen’s Tourist Card is a good deal – it includes most museums and mass transit. There are three Danhostels in Copenhagen: 1) Amager, 2) Bellahoej, and now a brand new one. The newest hostel for 2005 is called Danhostel and it is scheduled to open in the summer of 2005 in the middle of Copenhagen (near Langebro (bridge)), only 500 meters from the Central Station/Tivoli and the Town Hall Square – great location. This place is so new it might not be in travel books. It will be huge (600 beds and 200 rooms). Expect to pay 120 Danish kroner (16 Euro) per night. This place was converted from the former Hotel Europa. The Amager HI hostel is a large hostel and is a little newer but is a bit remote, but not really far from the center either -only 10 minutes from downtown by metro. Unfortunately no night bus (until 1am).

A good hostel choice is “Sleep in heaven” http://www.sleepinheaven.com/ which is located at #7 Struenseegade (20 minute walk from the train station)Tel. +45 35354648, email: [email protected] Dorms cost 16.8 Euro per night, 4 Euro for linens, 5.50 Euro for breakfast, and 60 Euro for the bridal suite. If you plan on nightlife-hopping, try to get a bed at Bellahøj (YHA hostel that is 4 km north of town), as it's serviced by frequent night buses every day of the week. Another option is Hotel Jorgenson (it is a new hostel located near the Norreport station). A new hostel in Copenhagen is called Luftmadrassen hostel http://www.luftkastellet.dk/143 which is located at Strandgade 100 B. Expect to pay 30 Euro per night which includes breakfast Tel: (+45) 70 233 274 or email : [email protected] This hostel has its own beach from sand that was shipped from Jutland. They have free Internet access. Open May – October. Another new hostel is called Mick and Blodwyn’s Backpackers Inn http://mickandblodwyns.homepage.dk/ be careful because your travel guide might have the old address. It USED to be located at Herluf Trolles Gade 9 (metro: Kongens Nytorv); tel: 23 33 93 23 00; email: [email protected] The hostel had a Welsh pub at the site. However, it is relocating and as of February 2005 it should be open at its new location. The new address is Strandgade on Christianshavn (metro: Christianshavn). The price for the summer will be 200Dkk (27 Euro) (with no hidden costs – breakfast & bedding are all included and free internet). They have dorms rooms and the owner said that in the summer 2005 they might have double rooms too. A nice pension in Copenhagen is Morten Fredricksen Guesthouse Ph: 45 32 95 32 73. (mobile +45 20419273). It is located at #36 Torvegade Email:[email protected] Webpage:http://www.chickens.dk/ Expect to pay 33.50-40 Euro for a single, 54 Euro for a double,, 74 Euro for a triple, and 94 Euro for a quad. Although the website says the prices are for 2003, the owner has told me that he uses the prices that are listed on the website and if he decides to change the prices, he will change the website. Oslo, Norway – all of the Scandinavian capitals are expensive (Oslo being the smallest and most expensive). Most department stores (ie Ahlens) have decent cafeterias, often on the top floor, and a grocery store (often in the basement The city center has a cool castle and I also went to the Kon-Tiki Museum which displays the original Kon Tiki – that Thor Heyerdahl took across the Pacific and Ra II, that he sailed across the Atlantic. Also the Vikingskipsmuseet shows you 3 Viking burial ships. For lodging in Oslo, try the KFUM (YMCA) hostel - 5 minute walk from the station/Oslo Spektrum, and costs about 13 Euro in dorms. Also consider the Anker hostel (it used to be called the Albertine hostel) http://www.anker.oslo.no/asp/generelt.asp?id=2 (in walking distance from city center, located at Storgata #55). Tel:+ 47 22 99 72 00 Fax.:+ 47 22 99 72 20 Email: [email protected] This hostel is only open in the summer and opens on

June 6. Expect to pay 56 Euro for a single or double, or 22 Euro per person in a quad, or 18.60 Euro in a 6 bed room. They offer a buffet breakfast for 7.30 Euro Another option is Oslo Hostel (Vandrerhjem) Haraldsheim http://www.haraldsheim.oslo.no/?1045683490 (located 4 km from the city center, but easily reached by tram #15 or #17). It is located at #4 Haraldsheimvn, Tel: +47 22 22 29 65 / Fax: +47 22 22 10 25 E-mail: [email protected] Expect to pay 23-26 Euro for a dorm, 39-48.50 Euro for a single, 54.50-65 for a double (bunks), but singles are not available from June 1-Sept. 1. One more option is Cochs pensjonat (located close to Karl Johans Gate and Slottet (royal residence) at #25 Parkveien 25. Tel.: +47 23 33 24 00 Fax.: +47 23 33 24 10 E-mail:[email protected] Expect to pay 50-69 Euro for a single, 69-90 Euro for a double, 85-110 Euro for a triple, 104-120 Euro for a quad http://www.virtualoslo.com/cochs_pensjonat/ Another option is MS Innvik which is a ship with a small theatre and about 12 cabins, moored close to Central Station. It is about a 5 minute walk to the station, 5 minutes to Akershus Slot. Expect to pay 350kr (42 Euro) for a single; 600kr (73 Euro) for a double. Each room has private bathroom with toilet, sink, and shower. Rooms are small, breakfast is included in the room price. These prices are a good deal in this expensive city. Stockholm, Sweeden – not much for me to add – read the guide books. Sweeden (due to its weaker currency) has recently become less expensive than Denmark (but is still more expensive than the rest of Europe). I suggest that you visit http://www.destination-stockholm.com as they offer something called The Stockholm à la Carte hotel package. This allows you to book really cheap hotel rooms ($59 for a single), and as part of the package, they includes the Stockholm à la Carte card which gives you unlimited free public transportation, free boat sightseeing tours, free admission at 60 museums, sights and attractions. The cheapest time to eat is lunchtime when most places have “Dagens Rätt” (dish of the day). Also, pizza, chinese and indian food are always some of the cheapest meals. The Vasa museum is a worthwhile thing to visit. For lodging, try the City Backpackers hostel -- http://www.citybackpackers.se It's close (500 meters) to the train station. Price: 20 Euro per person in an 8-bed room, 24 Euro per person in a 4 bed room, 27 Euro per person in a double. If location is not that essential to you, then consider staying at Hotel Formule 1, which is located at # 30 Mikrofonvägen. tel: +46 8 744 20 44; fax: +46 8 744 20 47 But don’t expect much service because the reception is only manned between 5pm and 7pm and otherwise a check-in machine similar to an ATM is used. The rooms are 3X4 meters and accommodate 3 people

There is a place called Skeppsholmen hostel which is located across the street from Af Chapman. Another hostel is Zinkensdamm Tel: 08-616 81 00 Fax: 08-616 81 20 email: [email protected] Expect to pay 18-23 Euro for a dorm, 42 Euro for a single, 54 Euro for a double and expect to pay 5 Euro for non-members. The hostel is located in the south of the city. You can reach the hostel by taking the metro from the Cityterminal and then walk about 10 minutes. Another option is Langholmen's. See also hostels listed on http://www.svif.se or http://www.stfturist.se There is a B&B ATUM located at # 19 Ugglemossvägen. http://w1.864.telia.com/~u86422501/ Email: [email protected] Tel: +46 (8) 603 83 50; Fax: +46 (8) 603 83 50; Mobile: +46 (70) 438 19 50. This place is located 10 miles outside of Stockholm, which is a 15 to17 minutes direct ride to downtown and the Old Town. The B&B is a 6-minute walk from the nearest underground (Tbana) station. In the high season expect to pay 43 Euro for a single, 60 Euro for a double, and 15 Euro for each additional bed. Expect to pay 6.50 Euro for the generous breakfast. Another option for lodging is to stay on one of the boats that are moored on the canals. For example, directly across from Gamla Stan is the Red Boat Mälaren (Den Röda Båten) Malaren. It only costs about 20 Euro and a few Euro for breakfast. If you want a room with three beds, then it costs 32 Euro for the room (yes you can have up to 2 other people in the room for that price). Another boat option is "Af Chapman". It´s a boat situated very central in Stockholm, at "Skeppsbron". Beautiful surroundings and a view of the royal Castle. The one problem - it is often packed with kids. If you watch the american tv show called “Amazing Race” the last season (November 2004) showed the teams sleeping at this location.

Helsinki, Finland – not much for me to add – read the guide books. Finland is expensive. For lodging, try Hostel Erottajanpuisto http://www.erottajanpuisto.com which is located in the center of Helsinki at #9 Uudenmaankatu. Email: [email protected] Tel: +358-(0)9-642 169; fax: +358-(0)9-680 2757. Expect to pay 46 Euro for a single, 60 Euro for a double, 75 Euro in a triple, 92 Euro in a quad, 20 Euro in a dorm (prices slightly higher if you are not a HI member. Another option is Stadium hostel: http://www.stadionhostel.com/ email: [email protected] (cheap but not too clean); or the Eurohostel: http://www.eurohostel.fi/default_e.asp?language=english# Some other places are: Lönnrot, email: [email protected] Web: www.mirhan.fi Another place is Paalupaikka, email: [email protected] web:

www.matkallu.com/paalukaikka Or try the Summer hostel Academica http://www.hostelacademica.fi/eng/index.htm, which is located at #14 Hietaniemenkatu, Tel +358 (9) 1311 4334 email: [email protected] Also there is Hotel Ava . This place is a 3 star hotel is located at #6 Karstulantie (about 3km (10 minutes by bus from the center of town). Expect to pay 32-55 Euro for a single, 40-63 for a twin, 58-83 Euro for a double, 63-103 for a triple, 68-112 Euro for a quad. Breakfast is available for 5.50 Euro. There are many different ferry-operators between Helsingfors and Tallinn. A hydrofoil takes 90 min. each way (not included in eurail), and traditional ferries take about 2 hours (also not included in eurail). One good place to eat is called Rax. They have 2 locations in downtown Helsinki. One is located behind Ateneum musemum (Mikonkatu 8) and the other is located at Forum shopping center – opposite the post office (Mannerheimintie 20). Expect to pay 7.50 Euro for an all-you-can-eat buffet (drinks included). The menu is pizza, salad, soup, lasagna etc. EASTERN EUROPE – most people that will make it to Eastern Europe will only get to see Prague and maybe Budapest and Warsaw. However, there is much more to see, but as a general rule, it will probably not be as interesting to many first time backpackers as Western Europe. By the time that you read this. the Czech Republic, Estonia, Hungary, Latvia, Lituania, Poland, Slovakia and Slovenia will have joined the European Union. This means that prices will begin to rise in the East. Experts predict that central and Eastern Europe will still be a good value through the summer of 2005, but after that prices on everythibg will climb until they match western European prices. Since some of tehse countries still have crappy economies, whenever you have the option to buy something in Euros or in the local currency (in Eastern Europe), always check the conversion rates because it will usually be a better deal for you to use the local currency. Prague was rated as the #6 city in Europe by Travel and Leisure magazine in August 2003. In Prague I suggest staying in a private accommodation if you are not traveling solo. The last time that I was there I traveled with one other person and we were planning on staying at one of the hostels (they were really cheap but had curfews), but when we got off the train, some people were soliciting us to stay at their apartment. It cost us about 15 Euro each per night (which cost more than the hostel, but was still within our usual budget) but it was much nicer than the hostel. We stayed in a fully furnished apartment (it even had a refrigerator) and were right downtown (convenient after a night of partying). Most of the private apartments can be arranged at the train station and are usually in nice locations near or in the historic Stare Mesto. If you chose to do this rather than a hostel, make sure to agree on a firm price and exactly what it includes prior to leaving the train platform. FYI – you can usually get even more of a reduced price if you stay multiple days (but you will have to tell them that when you are

negotiating or else it will not work). This is an example of a situation where having multiple travel partners will reduce your lodging expenses. Also, make sure that the person who meets you at the train station (who is soliciting you) will stop at a bank so you can exchange money – they will usually know the good banks, and you can get better rates than what is available at the station. First of all let me warn you that your Eurail pass will not cover the Czech Republic - read the fine print as to what countries is covered. That means that you have to buy a train ticket from the boarder on in (your Eurail should cover you up until you reach the Czech boarder). You can either buy a ticket before you board the train bound for Prague (such as while you are in Berlin, Munich or Vienna), or buy it on the train itself from the conductor (usually more expensive). Regardless, it is not much - I think about $15 from the boarder to Prague. The same applies on the way out of Prague. In general you should buy your ticket exiting Prague while you are at the Prague train station (only to the boarder) rather than buying it on the train. This is because buying a ticket in the Czech republic is cheap. This also explains why it is not that much of a difference when you are entering the country (because even if you pay the fine on the train for not having a ticket, you pay it in Czech prices rather than expensive western prices. Do NOT do the following: while you are in Berlin, Munich or Vienna do not buy a train ticket from Prague back to the boarder (exiting the Czech Republic). All tickets exiting the Czech Republic should be purchased from a train station from within the Czech Republic (or else you will pay Western prices). Prague is beautiful and really a cool place to see. There is history, culture, cheap good quality beer [try the real Budweiser (called Budwar), Pilsner Urquell, and Velkopopovicke], and a thriving nightlife. For a great beer hall that has an indoor hall and outdoor garden, visit U Fleku located at Kremencova #11 in the new town (metro B to Narodni trida) (they make their own beer) FYI - they will try to serve you what you think is a “complimentary” shot glass of some sweet liqueur (but they will charge you for it if you drink it, so just refuse it and order beer). The first time that I visited Prague, I only stayed one day and I really missed out on a lot. Since then, I have returned a few more times and the last time I spent 5 days and partied at a different place each night. One place where you are sure to hook up is at the Karlovy Lázne. It's the huge bar at the base of the St. Charles Bridge. FYI - Walking on Charles bridge at 7AM is totally different than later in the day. The newest craze is for bars (Boulder Bar (Ve Jame) (Brumlovka Sky Club) to have a rock climbing wall built into it for all you rock climbers who want to get in some practice without leaving central Prague. I came across the following website that gives a breakdown of different nightlife and how to get to each: http://www.jasoncholt.com/prague/prahanight.html FYI – Many of Prague’s discos employ attractive women to dance (to entice customers out on the floor). You can tell this because if you go in a bar/disco and only one or two girls are dancing, go up to them and offer them a

drink if they sit down with you. Usually they will not take any alcohol and they will usually not sit down with you. There are often many locals that are at the discos to hook up with Americans who will buy them drinks and it is quite easy to hook up if you want to. Unfortunately there are plenty of prostitutes (many are gypsies) around the clubs and they always make me laugh with their propositions of sex for $15. On Saturdays, they have a nice flea market in a street between the Charles Bridge and the Astronomical Clock. The Astronomical Clock chimes on the hour, so try and watch it. Also it houses a museum which is cheap (.30 Euro for students). Prague Castle (Prazsky Hrad) only costs 1 Euro to see. You will find plenty of people selling tickets for the orchestra/opera/theatre and you should try to go because the quality is excellent and the prices are dirt cheap for what you get to enjoy. When in Prague, be careful of pickpockets. They tend to frequent the main tourist areas where there are large crowds. I never had any trouble myself, but even the locals warn you of going near the main train station and the park in front of it at night as being very dangerous. Currency scams take place in many Eastern European cities and the one to look out for Prague is when someone offers to exchange money for you (black market). They will give you either old Czech (or even Russian) money. Particularly be careful that you do not receive any 1000kc notes 1993 or older because it will be useless as currency. This scam usually happens more often near the Florenc bus station during the winter season. If you are vegetarian, remember that to say “without meat” in Czech is “bez masa”, or “vubec” or “vubets” bez masa. However, you still might receive small pieces of ham in food in the bez masa section of a menu. A good place for vegetarians in Prague is at Lotos Restaurant, located at #13 Platnerska. This place is located 2 minutes walking from the Charles Bridge – try the Serbian Risotto and the herb potatoes. A good (non-vegetarian) place to eat is at U Rozvarilu (located at #26 Na Porici), which is an cafeteria where you can get hearty helpings of Czech standards cost less than 2 Euro per plate. Don’t expect any English here, but you can get by just fine if you point. A cheap place to eat near Wenceslas Square (1/2 block away) is Pizza Coloseum at #32 Vodicova)- they have cheap thin crust pizzas and lots of pasta dishes. For all-you-can-eat Indian/curry (Hare Krishna) food (very cheap meal) head to Govinda, located at #27 Soukenicka (Metro Namesti Republiky). Go after 2 or 3 p.m. to miss the crowds. For open-faced sandwiches, potato pancakes, or crepes, try U Bakalava (at the Baccalaureate Celetna #13 (located on the ground floor of a Charles University building)), which is in the old town (Metro Namesti Republiky). Trams in Prague stop running around midnight, so keep that in mind because if you stay in a hostel (such as the Boathouse or the Clown and Bard)

which is not in the center of town, then you will need to take a taxi after a late night of partying. Although I suggest staying at a private apartment if possible, if you want to stay at a hostel in Prague, then there are plenty to choose from. Check out : •Hotel Spus-Podoli : Nalysine 12, Praha 4 Ph: 6431105 •Hotel Spus-Strahov http://mujweb.cz/www/hostel_strahov/ Vanickova 4, Blok 4, Praha 6 Tel/Fax:++420-2-20513419, Tel/Fax:++420-2-57210764 E-mail [email protected] Expect to pay 10 Euro for a single, or 8 Euro for doubles and triples. This place is near the Prague Castle. • Strahov Estec : Vanickova 5, Blok 5, Praha 6 Ph: 521250 or 52-73-44 U Melounu - not too far from the city center (15 minute walk or take the tram or metro to the stop I. P. Pavlova, then walk a couple of blocks). Tel: +420 224 919 330 Tel/fax +420 224 918 322 web: http://www.hostelumelounu.cz/ email: [email protected] Expect to pay 13-19 Euro per person in a dorm/double, and 17-22 Euro for a single. Nice staff. Safe location. • Penzion Chaloupka http://web.iol.cz/PenzionChaloupka/ tel.+fax: 420 2 20511761 E-mail: [email protected] Family run, 15 minutes by tram from Malostranska. The Penzion is located at the “Baterie” tram stop (trams No.1,2 and 18). Large rooms, double and single, large breakfast, friendly staff, Expect to pay about 28-34 Euro /night for one person or 48-54 Euro for a double, 60-70 Euro for a triple, or 76-89 Euro for a quad. These prices include continental breakfast. Hostel Elf http://www.hotelsprague.cz/elf/ This hostel opened in July 2000 and is located at Husitska 11 which is a 5 minute walk from the main bus station (Praha-Florenc) and 10 minutes from both the Main Train Station (Hlavni nadrazi) and from the edge of the Old Town. From the Main Train station: go 1 stop by tram no.9, 5 or 26 or just walk 10 minutes. They have a 24-hour reception and bar, no curfew. During the high season expect to pay the following: Dorms = 8.50 Euro, 22 Euro for a single, 13.50 Euro for a double, 12 Euro for a triple, 11 Euro for a quad or five beds. Breakfast is included in these prices. e-mail [email protected] Tel:+420 233 920 118. The walk into town is not that glamorous and you will not enjoy the walk as much as if you were in another location. Private lodging with Vera Hlaváè, http://www.mujweb.cz/www/vera.hlavac Praha 3, Na Balkánì 126 PHONE: +420266314166; Email: [email protected] 13 Euro /bed, no curfew, free ride from train station; 15 minute walk from Wenceslav square http://www.mujweb.cz/www/vera.hlavac Hostel Jednota - on Opletalova 38, telephone 2421-1773, 150 meters north of Praha Hlavni Nadrazi railway station. In 1999 it cost $17 for a room with two beds, for 2 people in the room per night. Breakfast was included. The toilet and the showers were shared with the rest of the floor.

Hotel Olsanka - The accommodations were sparse, having a basic private bath and drab interior. $35 / night. The breakfast was good and the tram was located right outside the hotel, it takes you to the center of the city. •CKM Junior Hotel : Zitna 12, Praha 2 12105 Ph: 292984; Check out www.praguehostels.com and http://www.travellers.cz/ and also www.CzechBackpackers.Com . The latter is a good website that has maps and a list of hostels and other useful info. Also http://www.jasoncholt.com/prague/prahahotel.html gives a good break down of hostels and tells you which section of town they are in. Three of the popular hostels are called Sir Toby's Hostel, the “Boathouse” (about a 20 minute tram ride from the center of town); and the “Clown and Bard.” http://www.clownandbard.com/index.html (the Clown and Bard is the closest of the three to the old town, followed by Sir Toby’s). The Clown and Bard is known as a party hostel, (you even get a free drink when you check in). They have a bar and an internet café. This hostel is much closer to town than the Boathouse, and is located in the student part of town with plenty of cheap bars nearby. A lot of younger ex-pats frequent the hostel bar. Expect to walk 5 flights of stairs to reach the dorm. Expect to pay 8 Euro for a dorm, 15 Euro per person in a double, 11 Euro in a 4-6 person room, 14 Euro in a 6 bed flat with kitchen and bath. Email: [email protected] From the main railway station take tram # 5, #9, or # 26 one station to Husinecka. Take the first right on “Krasova” street and go up the steep hill to the second street on the right (Borivojova). The second building on the right side of Borivojova is the hostel. By the way, in addition to the bar in the basement of the hostel, there is also a good bar nearby (2 blocks) called the Akropolis. •Hostel Boathouse : Vnaklich 1a, 402 1076, Always a great crowd. http://www.aa.cz/boathouse/index.html Lodging starts at 10 Euros, and it is cleaner than the Clown and Bard. From the main train station (Hlavni nadrazi) Cross the park and walk straight through to the street Jeruzalémská. Catch Tram No 3 in Jindrisská street to tram stop “Èerný kùò”, follow yellow signs to the river. Phone: +420-2-41770051-2 Fax: +420-2-41776988 e-mail: [email protected] •Sir Toby's Hostel : http://www.sirtobys.com/ Tel: 42/02/83870635 Email: [email protected] Expect to pay 10 Euro in a dorm, 12.75 Euro per person in a triple, 11.50 Euro per person in a 4-5 bed room Although it's not downtown, it takes 10-15 minutes by tram to get downtown. This place is not a party hostel (has no bar) but it has a kitchen and TV Room where it is very easy to meet people. Keep in mind that there is a 24-hour bar just two blocks away serving Krusovice Beer for 14Kr for half a liter! The hostel is on the end of the C Metro Line in a residential area so you can buy cheap food and cook your own food. Because the hostel is in a residential zone, everything near this hostel is in cheap CZECH prices, not tourist prices. Try the nearby kavana holesovice for meals for 50-100kc (1.5-3 Euro) and large portions.

To get to the hostel from the main train station (Hlavni nadrazi) take Metro Line C (Red Line) and get off at VLTAVSKA (second stop). Exit the metro station and from outside the station, walk towards the tram stop and take any tram departing to your left. You want to get on a tram that stops at DELNICKA. This will be the second stop. When you get off that tram, walk to the corner of DELNICKA street and turn left. The address is Delnicka 24 Sir Toby’s also has a pension which is more expensive (25 Euro for a single, 17 Euro per person in a double, 13 Euro per person in a triple). email: [email protected] Another good cheap place to meet people is the Roxy hostel (which is located just above the Roxy nightclub and only costs about $5.50) at #33 Dlouha. Tel: 02/2482 6662 or 02/2482 6663. Lately the Golden Sickle hostel has become popular. There is also Ujezd located at #3 U Lanove drahy (Tel: 02/533 160) open June 20 – Sept 25 only (and it is located at the bottom of Petrin Hill). Pension u Podzamci (u Podzamci 27, 472 2759, 8.25 Euro/night) is another cheap option. The main downside is that it is located near a busy road and is not in the city center. If you don’t care about being away from the city center, then consider this place as a cheap place to sleep. A few hostels to avoid in Prague are the Traveler’s Hostel on Dlouha street; and also avoid Hostel Slunicko (dirty and located next to the Masarykovo train station with the worst drugs/drink reputation). Also, a new hostel called Hostel Richie gets mixed reviews. I hear the dorm there sucks, but the double with shared bath is supposed to be nice (but expensive ($32)). It is located at Karlova 9; Tel: (02) 2222 1229; or tel: (02) 2421 3644; fax: (02) 2222 0255; email: [email protected] In Prague, use the bus and metro rather than taxis. The bus and metro costs 12kc (.38 Euro) and the taxi costs 600 – 1,000kc (19-32 Euro) for the same distance. Remember that for all public transportation in Prague, you need a 12kc ticket for yourself and a 6kc ticket for your luggage. If you have extra time prior to your trip, visit www.think.cz – for information about cafes, restaurants and pubs in Prague. If you happen to be in Prague on April 30, you will get to experience Paleni Carodejnic (Burning of the Witches). If it is raining when you are in Prague, you can spend time at the indoor botanical gardens. If you are looking to buy a gift, consider some quality but inexpensive Czech crystal (such as a crystal vase). In general, the farther away from Prague you get, the less expensive it will be. However, if you are only visiting Prague, then the farther away from the city center you are, the less expensive. For a very cheap price you can climb the stairs to the top of Petrin’s miniEiffel tower and get a great view of the city. You can get a similar view nearby at the Petrin Gardens. To get there you need to go to the outer parts of the city.

You can catch a cable car to the top from near the intersection of Vitezna and Ujezd. The mini-Eiffel tower (as well as a maze of mirrors at Bludiste) is at the summit. Prague also has a tower called the Zizkov tower. You can pay 5 Euro and take an elevator to the observation deck (93 meters high). Consider eating at the Staropramen Brewery Restaurant (Staropramen Hospoda). It is the brewery location so you will get great-tasting, cheap fresh beer. Try their “brewer's goulash” (it comes with your choice of either the houskovy or bacon dumplings). Also consider Malestranska Pivnice (excellent gulash as well), and comes with both houskovy AND potato dumplings (which are very filling). Dirt cheap prices and they only serve Pilsner Urquell on tap (but it is a great beer). If you are standing at Malestranska tram stop, face the castle, and then look straight to your left, and go down that side street. it will take you right to it. If you are on the Charles Bridge, you can take one of the side streets underneath and it will lead you to it. This restaurant has a lot of locals. Pivovarsky Dum, is another good place and is located on the corner of Lipanska and Jedna street, close to Vaclavska Namesti. There is a “bone church” similar to the one that I discussed in the Rome section of this document that is an ossuary near the town of Kutna Hora, which is located about 60km east of Prague. The bone church is actually in a smaller village called Sedlec. This place has stuff made from the bones of over 400,000 people and it only costs .44 Euro. You can reach this place by taking a bus from Prague’s Florenc station (1 ½ hour) for about 2 Euro. When you arrive, just take a local bus to Sedlec Tabak (2 km away) and follow the signs to the chapel. Some tourists pay a tour company 20 Euro and it picks you up in Prague and drives you directly to the church. Waste of money if you have the ability to navigate on your own. Ceske Budejovice (CB) – Pronounced “Chess-Kay Bood-yeh-yo-vits-eh” Don't make the mistake of staying in this town over night. It's an industrial town and there's basically nothing there to do, except for the tour of the brewery. The brewary is located at Karoliny Svetle #4 and can be reached by taking bus #2 and #4. If you are a student, expect to pay 2 Euro to enter the brewary. This town has the largest square in the country – Whoopie.. This town is extremely dead on Sunday and during the winter. Also, I suggest that you do not take the train from Ceske Budejovice to Budapest This train tends to run very late and you might get stuck spending the night in Bruno. Thus, chose a direct Prague/Budapest train rather than from CB There is a good place to drink beer called Legends, just off the main square. Some of the restaurants in CB serve kangaroo. About 10 Miles away from CB is the town of Hluboka, which is home to Europe's smallest zoo.

Cesky Krumlov (CK) is another neat town in the Czech Republic. From Prague to Cesky Krumlov there are several trains during the day, (3 or 3.5 hours and costs 5 Euro one-way) but the train station in in Cesky Krumlov is some distance from town, while the bus station is right at the entrance. Therefore, I suggest taking the bus, which takes about the same travel time, but the bus drops you off right near the center. The easiest way to get to Cesky Krulov from Prague is to take the train to Cesky Budejovice, then the bus to Cesky Krumlov. (The train and bus station in Cesky Budejovice are facing each other). If you are afraid of using a bus, then you can just take the train all the way to Cesky Krumlov with a change in Cesky Budejovice, but the train station is not as close to town as the bus station. Also, travelling between CB and CK is very easy by bus and the trip is about 50 minutes. In CK, visit a restaurant called the “Barbakan.” It is located at Horní No. 26. A meal that would run about $20-$25 in the USA costs only about $5-$6. They also have a B&B at this location but it is not cheap. E-mail: krcmabarbakan@centrum or E-mail: [email protected] WWW :http://krcmabarbakan.pruvodce.com Telephone: 00420-337-717017; or 380717017 (from 22.9.2002); 380716249 (from 22.9.2002). Expect to pay $32-47 for a single, $42-58 for a double. For lodging, consider the Krumlov House (they have one big room with mattresses on the floor but the people who run the place are great). Also consider Moldau Hilton hostel (tel 0337-712496) located at Parkan 116; Travellers hostel (Soukenicka 43) Email [email protected] tel. 0337711345 (expect to pay 7.50 Euro) They have a bar downstairs, but the showers sucked. This hostel has no curfew. Hostel 99 tel. 0337-712812 (email [email protected]); They have a bar and a new restaurant with good food. The huge enclosed courtyard is usually full of people just hanging out. At night they sometimes have a bonfire and you can sing songs. Expect that beer only costs 20 kc each. Hostel Merlin tel +420/606/256 145; Hostel Krumlov House (email [email protected] or [email protected]). Tel 0337-711935. This is a popular hostel but far from the best in town. Hostel U Vodnika, tel 0337-711935 (email [email protected] or [email protected]) A list of other cheap lodging in this town can be found at http://www.ckrumlov.cz/uk/mesto/rpphv/t_sezuby.htm I have heard people suggest avoiding Hotel Ruze (recommended by Lonely Planet) as being overpriced and bad service.

Slovakia – well, I am partly of Slovak heritage so I wanted to visit Slovakia, and I stopped in Bratislava. Slovakia is the poor, agricultural part of the former Czechoslovakia. If this is your first time in Europe, I suggest visiting Prague and steering clear of Slovakia. Expect it to cost about 7-10 Euro by bus and 15 Euro by train to travel between Prague and Bratislava (but EC trains are much more expensive (35 Euro)). Anyway, when I was in Bratislava, after exchanging about $20, I walked around the town and was quite depressed. I should mention that there were some really neat war-related sculptures around town. Also, I saw 3 generations of women standing at what appeared to be an ice cream vender. However, upon closer examination, I realized that they were all doing shots of Vodka. After realizing why my ancestors left this country, I decided to do likewise and take the next train out of town, which was not scheduled to depart for about 3 hours. So, I decided to spend the $20 worth of local currency. In order to do so, I purchased a few CDs and a 5 course meal. The "National Museum" in Bratislava (Slovakia) is a shame. It resembles a flea market with its hodge podge collection. If you do visit Slovakia, I suggest visiting the castle of Devin (10 km from Bratislava), and the towns of Kosice; Trencin (nice town with castle about 1 ½ hours away from Bratislava; and Cachtice. You can get to Devin by taking bus #29 from the central bus station to Devin. In Kosice there is Domov Mladeze, a student dormitory, and allegedly open all year (5 Euro for your own room, and bathroom/toilet shared with one other room) The best attractions in Kosice (both free) were the main cathedral and the musical water fountain in the main square that plays all day every day, and when it gets dark lights are added. Have an ice cream in Kosice Square from the Aida Cafe as you watch the fountain. Also look at the Kosice Gold treasure in the basement of the Eastern Slovak museum at the north end of Hlavna. I do not suggest more than one full day in Kosice. Many people think that the High Tatras Mountains are nearly as impressive as the Jungfrau region in Switzerland (at a fraction of the Swiss prices!) If you are determined to stay in Bratislava, I have heard good things about the hostel Bernolak located at Racianske Myto (8 Euro for a single with shower and toilet) (for July or August) as being a lively hostel and the clubs are open till 6 or 7 am. This hostel is near to square "RACIANSKE MYTO" and an easy way to get there is by tram. Another option is the Fairway Botel – a boat on the Danube. Keep in mind that this town lacks many options for cheap lodging. You can get private accommodations from the info desk in the station. In the summer it is possible to get a room for 2-5 Euro/night in students dormitories. There is a dormitory called Druzba (located at Botanická st. 25, Bratislava, tel : +421 7 6542 0065) which costs about $5 with a student ID (but I have recently hear of people paying 15 Euro but I am not sure why). From the

Main Train Station (Hlavna Stanica) there is actually a tram that goes all the way to a stop called Druzba. I heard that this hostel still has some rooms available year-round. Also consider Studentsky domov STU J.Hronca , Bernolakova 1 , phone 00421/2/52497169 for some 150 Sk/night ($3.25USD) (3.58 Euro), or studentsky domov STU Belojanis, Wilsonova 6, 00421/2/52491144"- 90sk ($1.93USD) (2.15 Euro)during summer and with Euro/26 or ISIC. Also, when you get off the train, look up and you will see some advertisement boards suspended from the ceiling of the train station recommending various B&Bs. Expect to pay about 6 Euro per person at such a place for 2 sharing a room. Since most of the above places are closed during the non-summer months, you might need to know that a two-star hotel (Turist Hotel) is located close to the train station. Expect to pay 25 Euro for single room and 30 Euro for double room. Tel. 00421-2-5557 2789. www.turist.sk A few other options are: 1) the Downtown Backpackers Hostel Bratislava, located at #31 Panenska; 2) Gabriel Hostel located at Paulinyho St. no 1. This place is located next to the National Theatre, which is a 10 minute walk from the Castle and 1 minute walk from river Danube. The walking distance to the Central railway station is about 30 minutes. 3)

I have heard that a new law was passed that requires each foreign visitor to have US$50 per day plus a valid insurance policy for each day (s)he wants to spend on Slovak soil. Since this was supposedly a new law, I never encountered this, but it is possible that you might be asked to prove these two things when entering the country. The $50 per day is ridiculous because you will live like a king on much less. You are more likely to run into this requirement if you try to extend a visa and the official requires you to prove you have sufficient funds for each day of extension (but that might also be up to official discretion). Hungary This country uses lots of Paprika. In fact, many places set the table with salt and Paprika as opposed to salt and pepper! Everyone who goes to Hungary goes to Budapest. This really is a single town divided by the Danube River. The Buda part is the part where the parliament building is (on one side of the river).

The Pest side is where the big hill is and the cool St. Stephen’s Basillica. When you are up on the Pest side of the town, go see the Jewish cemetery (you can pay to go in, or look through the fence for free). There is a place called Statue Park that is filled with old relics of the communist days. There are many bathhouses in Budapest and I went to one of the famous baths in one of the big fancy hotels and a few old men kept moving towards me, and one even rubbed the leg of the guy that I was traveling with. For Budapest, keep in mind to always use branded cabs (If you do not see any company names on the doors – avoid that cab). Before you arrive in Budapest, you may be approached by college-aged people who work at different hostels attempting to solicit your business. This may be good if you are arriving late and are concerned about vacancies at other hostels, but keep in mind that these people work for one particular hostel (or maybe more than one) and they are known to lie to backpackers and try to scare them with lies that certain hostels are not licensed or that certain hostels are full. Also, there will be guys at the train station in labeled T-shirts, that work for some of these hostels and can give you more info. FYI –the Universum hostels are good. If you are considering taking a taxi from Keleti Railway station to your lodging – be careful because the taxi drivers try to rip you off. If you don’t want to take public transport (such as a bus) then go out onto the main road and hail a taxi there. It may be a losing battle once they see your huge backpack. Another option is to ask 3 different drivers what the cost is and see if there is any difference in price. A party hostel is the Yellow Submarine http://www.yellowsubmarinehostel.com/ Expect to pay 10 Euro per night in a dorm, 15 Euro for a double or 30 Euro for a single, and 12 Euro for a triple, 11 Euro for a quad. Tel/Fax : +36.1.331.9896 or +36.1.296.43.54 E-mail : [email protected] Directions - Walk out of the train station and head towards the closest and only McDonalds. Take trolley-bus number 73 from outside of the McDonalds (travel approximately 10 minutes) and get off at the Podmaniczky stop. (Ask a local or the driver to let you know). Cross the main road (Terez Krt.) and you will find the hostel right in front of you at 56 Terez Krt. A hostel called “the Best Hostel” http://www.besthostel.hu/ does not allow smoking or drinking, and is NOT a party hostel but is a good place to relax. Expect to pay 10 Euro (includes breakfast) tel 36-1-332-49-34 Email [email protected] or [email protected] Another party place (which is located on the Pest side of town) is called Backpackers Guesthouse, http://www.backpackbudapest.hu/ XI Takacs Menyhert u. 33, Phone: 185 5089 or 36 1 385 8946. Expect to pay 7-9 Euro in a dorm, 11 Euro per person in a double, 4 Euro to wash and dry a load of laundry. Internet access 3.60 Euro per hour. From the Keleti Pu train station, take bus #7 or 7A (green numbers) in the direction Bornemissza Ter (the bus stop in front of Pizza Hut). Get off the bus at Tetenyi Ut (5th stop after the river.

Walk back underneath the rail bridge, turn left and it is the 3rd street on your right. There is a festive hostel that has been around since 1997 called Station Guesthouse Budapest http://www.stationguesthouse.hu/nonflash.htm but this place is located a bus stop away from the city center in a section of town that is dead. It will take you 20 minutes by bus from the hostel to the city center. Anyway, to get to this hostel from the main train station (KELETI), take bus No. 7 (red), get off at the first stop called “Hungaria korut”, walk under the train bridge and make a right to “Mexikoi” street. The hostel is a yellow building with red shutter and is located on the 2nd corner. They have 24-hour reception, no curfew or lock-out, they offer internet access and they even have a free pool table. Expect to pay 9 Euro in a 6 or 8-bed dorm, 7 Euro in the attic, 12.30 Euro in a double or triple, 10.25 Euro in a quad. They charge you less for the rooms for each additional day that you stay (so the price for the third night is cheaper than the price for the second night, which is cheaper than the price for the first night). I have listed the first night prices. e-mail: [email protected] Tel: +36-1-221-8864, fax:+36-1-383-4034 . For a very cheap hostel keep your expectations low and stay at Hostel Apaczai (Papnovelde utca 4-6, Summer Only. Dorms 12+ Euro. (tel 1-267-0311) For a party hostel, go to Hostel Vasarhelyi Dorms 12+ Euro (1-463-4356) (located on the historical side of the city, good transportation, and a great university pub in the cellar). There is a place called the Museum Guesthouse that gets mixed reviews. Hostel Marco Polo http://www.marcopolohostel.com/ is the most expensive hostel in Budapest. It is located at Nyar Utca. 6 (on the Pest side of the river). The hostel is a member of the IYHF and offers discounts for HI cardsholders. They provide each (non-dorm) guest with free towels. 24 hour reception. No curfew or lock-outs. Laundry available, they also have internet access (in the restaurant). They have a free minibus service from Keleti Railway station (07:00-19:00), but the hostel is only about 10 minutes walk from that train station (or one stop on the metro and a 2 minute walk), so you really don’t need a mini bus. Expect to pay a whopping 18 Euro in a dorm during high season, 24 Euro in a quad, 26 Euro in a triple, 35 Euro in a double, and 51 Euro in a single (buffet breakfast included in the price). I consider these prices as expensive because they are about what you would expect to pay at a hostel in western Europe. They tend to have many representatives on the trains that are arriving in Budapest and they make claims to backpackers that lure them to this hostel. If you have no clue what the proper price for a dorm should be in Budapest (eastern Europe) than you might think that the prices at this hostel are normal. Tel: +36 1 344 5367; or +36 1 413 2555 Fax: +36 1 344 5367 or +36 1 413 6058; Email: [email protected] There is another hostel called Diaksport which costs 13 Euro and it was a dump (especially the bathrooms).

A good idea is to consider staying at a private apartment in Budapest. There are people who will meet the incoming trains at the stations. They usually range from about 25-35 Euro a night for 2 people. One guy even told me that he paid 28 Euro per night for an apartment and they had 4 people, so it ended up costing each person only 7 Euro. Regarding drinking in Budapest, the US embassy has released a list of 12 places which have drawn the most complaints (of excessive billing and physical violence against those that refuse to pay the rip-off prices). The establishments to avoid include: Anker, Aphrodité, Fontanta Cabaret, Galilei, Mepisto Café, Mizram Café, Music Corner, Muskátli eszpresszó, Piccolo bár, Pigalle bár, Tropical bár. I suggest start in the hostel bar and ask staff and other travelers about other places to go out to drink. A good place for food in Budapest is Fatal's. It is recommended by all the guidebooks and has very large servings. It is located at V, Vaci u. 67 (in Pest by the M3 metro – Ferenciek Ter). Expect to spend 4.50 – 11.50 Euro and make a reservation – tel: 266 26 07. If you are vegetarian, eat at Ghandi. It is located at V, Vigyazo Ferenc u. 4 (in Pest). Expect to spend 4 – 7 Euro. In general, a metro ticket costs about half a Euro (and the fine for not using one is almost 7 Euro). There is something called the Budapest card which allows you to travel on public transportation and get into museums etc. For more info, visit: http://www.bkv.hu/angol/jegyek/index.html. The 2-day Budapest card costs 15.60 Euro and the 3-day card costs 19 Euro. The Lake Balaton area is nothing fancy. It is a resort area for Europeans, but I found it to be simply a relaxing place to go. A local train ticket in 2nd class from Budapest Kelety to Siofok (lake Balaton) should cost about $3. Pecs is a university town and you can find cheap lodging at the university and party in the street downtown with the students. Consider the 1 star Hotel Laterum, located at Hajnoczy u 37-39. Tel: +36 (0) 72 254 963. They have a tv in every room Eger is known for wine tasting in one of its many wine cellars. Good quality Hungarian wines run between $3.50 - $9.00 a bottle. This town even has a castle. There is also a swimming pool park with 7 different pools, one of which is a mineral bath. There is a street of guest houses where you can easily find a double for 20 Euro.

Poland – Consider flying into Poland because you can often find cheap flights on Air Polonia into Warsaw. www.airpolonia.com For example, I recently saw the following prices listed for June or July 2004 flying one way: Athens – Warsaw: 42-63 Euro Brussels – Warsaw: 35-63 Euro Koeln – Katowice: 35-57 Euro London – Warsaw: 51-64 Euro Madrid – Warsaw: 78-99 Euro Paris – Warsaw: 63 Euro Always make sure to buy an extra ticket for your large backpack anytime that you use public transportation in Poland. Ask when you buy your ticket for details. If language is a barrier, point to yourself and to your backpack when buying tickets. You can get breakfast at places called a MILK BAR or called bar mleczny. Warsaw - In Poland of course you will probably see Warsaw since it is a big train hub, but I would suggest seeing other towns in Poland besides Warsaw. In fact, if you only have 2 days in Poland, I would suggest not even staying in Warsaw at all and opting for one of the other cities (which I mention below). Anyway, in Warsaw, once my friend and I stopped in McDonalds for breakfast (at about 7 or 8 in the morning) and asked what they had for breakfast (since there was no breakfast menu visible) and the reply was “Big Mac.” As a general rule, try to avoid McDonalds in Europe because there is better local food worth trying. Also this is another reason – things are different in Europe (kind of like when I was in a McDonalds in Munich (to escape from the biting cold one December) and I looked up and saw a big advertisement for something called the McPork. Anyway, in Warsaw, Poland, there is a big flea market pretty close to the train station and you can get cheap tapes/CDs – but steer clear of the many porn shops (unless that is your thing). If you take the public transport in Warsaw, make sure to buy tickets prior to boarding and you must self-punch the ticket on the tram. By the way, although I did both of these things, I was taken to jail with a few fellow backpackers because we only bought one ticket per person (and we apparently were required to buy a ticket for our large backpacks). After bribing the police officer, I was released, but my travel partners spent the night in jail. As for hostels in Warsaw, if you reserve a student hostel through Almatur travel agency expect to pay them 100% commission for non-students. The following may help out – - Dom Przy Rynku (a hostel only open in July and August) 5 minutes walking from the old city square, no curfew, but costs about 40-45zloty ($9.90 - $11.25) a person.

A great option is Hotel Zaczek (also known as Fundacja Studentów i Absolwentów UJ "Bratniak" DS. Zaczek), but you will use earplugs here.: http://www.zaczek.com.pl/ Tel (+48-12) 633 19 14 to book, and 622 11 02 for the reception desk. Email : [email protected] It is located at Al. 3 Maja 5. From the train station take tram number 15 (5 stops) or bus numbers 179 or 192 (6 stops). Expect to pay 14-19 Euro for a single, or 17-29 Euro for a double; or 21-36 Euro for a triple, or 24-48 Euro for a quad. -

Hotel Studencki 5/7 Smyczkowa Street tel: 43-86-21 Youth Hostel 4/6 Miedzyparkowa Street tel: 831-17-66

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Youth Hostel Syrenka 53A Karolkowa Street tel: 632-97-46 website: http://schronisko.ptsm.com.pl/ssmnr6/ Located in a big white building at Karolkowa St. 53 A. Tel (0-22) 632-88-29. tel/fax (0-22) 632-97-46, Email: [email protected] From the train station, take tram number 12 or 24 (tram stop is opposite the Marriott Hotel in the direction of Ochota, Wola district). You have to go 6 stops on the tram and get off at department store "Centrum Wola". Go through the underground passage in the direction of the sky-scraper. The hostel is near the department store. A more complicated option is to take tram number 22, but you have to get off after crossroads (Towarowa St. and Solidarno¶ci St.) and then walk straight down Leszno Street to Karolkowa Street. Expect to pay 8.35 Euro for a dorm, 9.50 Euro per person in a quad. They have a self-service kitchen and a café. Szkolne Schroniske Mlodziezowe30 Smolna Street. This is the official HI hostel Warszawa 00-375, ul. Smolna 30; tel/fax (0-22) 827-89-52 This is the only hostel located in the central area of the city. This place has a 11 pm curfew and lights out at 10pm! I suggest not staying here and try to stay in the student dorm (if available) and expect to pay about 6 Euro and get a great location by the beer gardens.

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- Warszawa 00-459, ul. Myœliwiecka 9 (MOS Agrykola); tel/ fax (0-22) 622-9105, tel. 622-91-11 -- You can also contact Polish Youth Hostels Association, ul Chocimska 28, 00791 Warsaw. Ph: (22) 498 128. Fax: (22) 498 354. When in Poland, make sure to also see Krakow - Krakow was rated as the #8 city in Europe by Travel and Leisure magazine in August 2003. this is a beautiful town and is a university town (and therefore has a good nightlife). A new hostel recently opened called Nathans Villa Hostel, http://www.nathansvilla.com/index.html Expect to pay 10 Euro per night, free breakfast, free laundry, no curfew, in the old town. Sw. Agnieszki 1 phone: ++48 (012) 422 35 45; email: [email protected] or [email protected] This is a good hostel and I suggest putting this at the top of your list. Also consider hostel Bling Bling http://www.blingbling.pl/ located at #7 Pedzichow, which is a 5 minute walk from the train or bus stations and an easy

walk to the nightlife. 24-hour reception, no curfew or lockout. The kitchen has a freezer. They have a washer and dryer for clothing. Expect to pay: 10-12 Euro in the dorms - these prices include free breakfast. Tel: +48 12 634 05 32, fax +48 694 353 025, email: [email protected] There is a hostel on Oleandry street called Schronisko (hostel) Oleandry tel, 48-12 6338822, 6320658; fax: 48-12 6338920- about $7 in a dorm, quite nice & clean, but it has a 10 p.m. curfew. A good option is Hostel U Zewechiego www.zewecki.com which is walking distance (10 minutes) from the station. Expect to pay about 12- 20 Euro per person. Tel: + 48 (012) 429-55-96, e-mail: [email protected] Another hostel is Strawberry hostel ($8-12) http://www.strawberryhostel.com/ and offers bus service in the summer and no curfew. It is located at Kraków Ul. Raclawicka 9. Tel: (00 48 12) 636 1500; email : [email protected] To get there from the train station (Kraków Glówny) Take 6 stops by trams line 4 or 12 and walk 2 min. to number 9 Raclawicka street. This hostel is open from July 1 – September 1. This place is kind of out of the way. Another place is Express Youth Hostel. www.express.91.pl. Expect to pay 10 Euro per night per person in a double room. Address ul. Wroclawska 91. Take bus #130 from main train station, get of at the 5th stop, turn right, go up a hill. This place is also kind of out of the way. This place is more like a camp site than a hostel. Also the Szkolne Schronisko MLodziezowe is a good deal if you don't mind a bus ride. From the train station (Kraków Glówny) you can take either bus #3 or bus #115. I suggest bus #115 because it is the easiest one to navigate. Bus #3 is kind of tricky because you need to change buses. So, take bus #115, the bus will cross the river (Wisla) and make a couple of turns. When you see the BP Gas station on your right, get off the bus because you can walk to the hostel from there. www.ssm.com.pl/ tel/fax (048-0-12) 653 24 32. Expect to pay 6 Euro (or if you have a YHA hostel card, you will only pay 4.5 Euro) plus one Euro for linens. One more option is the Sun Youth Hostel. Expect to pay 10 Euro for a single room. This is in a student dorm but it used to be Gestapo headquarters and there's a small museum in the basement. There is also the Trzy Kafki hotel where you can sleep for about 11 Euro. For a slightly higher budget, stay at Holiday Inn Express or Polonia Hotel. For a day trip, from Krakow, consider going to the salt mines (the Wieliczka-mine) which is 10 km east of town. You can get there by bus (minibusses leave from the central station for about $1). The 2 hour tour involves you walking down into the mine and then taking a lift to the surface. Remember to dress warmly because year round the temperature in the mind is only 14oC or 57oF. The mine is open in the summer from 7:30 – 7:30 and there is no need to make reservations and the longest that you will wait in line is 60 minutes.

Expect to pay 7.60 Euro to tour the mine and 9 Euro for a tour with a guide. They charge you 2 Euro to film or take pictures. After the tour you can eat a meal for 6.70 Euro in the underground restaurant (125 meters underground). Another good day trip from Krakow is Auschwitz and Birkenau which are about 90 minute bus ride from Krakow. Admission to the grounds of the Auschwitz-Birkenau Memorial is free of charge. I took the bus to Auschwitz and walked the 3-km to Birkenau (I suggest taking the cheap shuttle bus instead (located in the carpark of Auschwitz which takes you to Birkenau in 10 minutes but it only makes the trip once per hour). I suggest going to both of these death camps, but if you can only go to one, go to Auschwitz because it is the most intact of the two. Do not expect to have fun at these death camps, but it really should be seen. You will get more out of the experience if you have seen the movie Schindler’s List before visiting. Also, if you take pictures, don't look like a fool with big grins in your pictures at these locations. The best way to reach Auschwitz from Krakow is to take the bus from the PKS station in Krakow, which is beside the railway station. There are buses at 8am, 9am and 11am and the journey takes 1.5 hours. The camps open at 8 am, but the best bus to catch is the 9am as this gets you to Auschwitz just in time to see the 11am showing of the film of the liberation of the camp, taken by the Russians in January 1945. This film lasts 15 minutes and the English language tour starts just after this. Here is a website that has a good map to help you get to the camps. http://www.auschwitz.org.pl/html/eng/zwiedzanie/index.html At Birkenau there is a new exhibit located at the back of the camp, behind the area known as Canada 2. Also, although there has been much talk and controversy about building a grocery store nearby Auschwitz, when I was there, there was NO FOOD available anywhere, so make sure to bring something I have heard that there is a good restaurant at Auschwitz, alongside the stop for the shuttle bus, but I only saw the snack bar (which was closed) inside the entrance building. Gdansk - the city is just as spectacular as Krakow but has many less tourists. Make sure to see the (former) Lenin shipyards with the famous monument in front of them. As for a day trip from Gdansk, there is also a nearby concentration camp of Stuthoff. Also consider visiting the largest brick castle in the world (located in Malbork), which is about an hour train ride (2 Euro) away from Gdansk. Consider the Mac-Tur pension www.mactur.gda.pl/ Expect to pay 16-29 Euro per person, which includes breakfast. Email: [email protected] or tel/fax: +48 58 3024170, tel: +48 58 306 29 90. This place is located 2.5 km from the town center (the opposite direction from the old town), but you can get to the pension from the town by bus (numbers: 115, 130, 184, 384, 460(n)) in 10 minutes or by taxi in 5 minutes.

Another cheap place (but not as clean) is the "tanie hotel Zaulek". Expect to pay about 25 Euro for a huge double with a sink. It is located in a good location at #107-108 ul.Ogarna (near the Neptune Fountain in the old town). Tel: 058 301 41 69. For a hostel, try the HI (Schronisko Mlodziezowe) at ul. Walowa 21. Tel: 058 301 23 13. The hostel is within walking distance to both the train station and the old town. Expect to pay 4 Euro for a dorm and about 7 Euro for a double. Another place is called Dom Studnck Angielski, located at ul. Chlebnicka #13-16; Tel: 301 28 16. Expect to pay about 7 Euro per person. 2 good places to eat are Goldwasser and Ratskeller. A nice bar is Kamienica on Mariacka street. Another good day trip from Krakow is day trip to Zakopane. There are usually a bunch of tourists here. Zakopane is a resort town in the Polish Tatras, and it is famous for its wood frame houses. Although most things will seem cheap by western standards, realize that almost everything in this town is expensive by Polish standards, as Zakopane offers the best skiing in Poland. Expect to pay $20 USD for an all day ski pass, plus a $7 USD for the return trip on the cable car. Many of the buildings are built from wood and if you look in the old cemetery (adjacent to the old church) you will see tombstones also made from wood. It is about 2 hours from Krakow (by bus) or 4 hours (by train), so you will obviously want to take the bus. Also, if you take the train from Zakopane to Krakow be watchful so they do not charge you for a 1st class ticket, as they tend to frequently do to tourists. You can ride the funicular to the top of the mountain where you will be standing on the Poland/Slovakia border with a great view. If you decide to spend the night, you will be approached by a lot of ladies at the train and bus station offering you a room for rent. The following are examples of prices to expect: - Jurek Guesthouse is located 5 minutes walking south from Krupowki street, at #27 ul. Zamoyskiego. - Koisowka Guesthouse http://www.visit.pl/objectsDetails.php?hotelID=35&type=pensions which is built out of wood and is located at Cyrhla 10B. Expect to pay $30 for a double. - Adria Guesthouse, http://www.visit.pl/objectsDetails.php?hotelID=217&type=pensions located at ul. Grunwaldzka 5, which charges $27 for a single - Geovita Guesthouse http://www.travelia.pl/objectsDetails.php?hotelID=218&type=pensions Located at ul. Wierchowa 4 (which is only 10 minute walk to the center of

town) Expect to pay $37 for a single. Wroclaw (pronounced Vrotswav or Vrotzuav) is a good town to see on your way to Krakow. The HI hostel is located at #20 ul. Kollataja which is directly opposite the train station (on the road perpendicular to ul. Pilsudskiego). Tel: 343 88 56. Curfew 10 p.m. Expect to pay 4.25 Euro per person. Another hostel is Wieniawa and is located at #130 Ul. Gajowicka, which is about 2 kilometers away from the center. Tel: 004871365-22-55, or 00487136533-03; fax: 004871361-95-61 There is a hotel called Hotel Wakacyjny http://www.hotelwakacyjny.pl/ that offers cheap rooms. tel/fax 071-320-23-74 071-320-39-61; e.mail: [email protected] Here is another website that lists several 3 star hotels that can be as cheap as 22 Euro for a single. http://www.s-h-systems.co.uk/poland/wroclaw.html For example, they list the Europejski Hotel Tel: +48 (0) 713 431 071 which offers a single from 22 Euro and a Double from 34 Euro; and they also list the Orbis Motel Wroclaw, located at #151 Lotnicza; Tel: +48 (0) 71 518 153 offers a single 31 –44 Euro and a Double 40-55 Euro. In the town of Czestochowa (chen-sta-ho-va) there is a shrine at the Jasna Gora (Bright Hill) monastery. This is where you will find the Black Madonna. The icon is displayed during religious services only. From Krakow, six trains depart daily for the trip to Czestochowa. Romania – tales of crime abound in this dirt poor country. There is a scam that is pulled in Romania by the official public transportation officials. They board the bus/tram and ask you for your ticket. Your ticket should be punched and exhibit 3 holes. They will secretly switch your ticket with one in their hand that has 4 holes punched in it. They will charge you an $8 fine for not having a properly punched ticket. There is no way to prove that you properly punched the ticket. However, you can avoid this scam by holding your ticket in the air for all to see before handing it over, and make them count the holes out loud before you hand it over; or buy and stamp two separate tickets when you get in, and if they pull the trick, produce the second one, making them confirm the correct number of holes first; or sign you name on the back of the ticket under their eyes before handing it over. For the domestic Romanian trains you can find the rates on a given route at http://www.cfr.ro/defeng.htm - (FYI - the main station in Bucharest will be “Bucuresti Nord Gr.A”). The tourist office in downtown Bucharest can arrange for you to stay with a local family for cheap ($5-15). There are now 3 main hostels in Bucharest.

There are Villa Helga, Villa Elvis, and “Villa 11.” If you stay in a hostel in this city, I suggest staying at either Helga or Elvis, as they better located than Villa 11. As of June 2002 a “2” has to be added before old area codes (e.g. the area code of Bucharest was 1 whereas the new code is 21, the area code of Arad was 57 whereas the new code is 257). So keep that in mind when reading telephone numbers from older publications. Villa 11 is located on Str. Institutul Medico-Militar 11, tel: 004-092495900 or 0040722495900 (mobile), e-mail: [email protected], USD 12.5 / B&B; it is located close to the main railway station and it is OK if you reach Bucharest late at night or have to leave early in the morning, but the area is not very safe. Anyway, regarding Villa Elvis (there is nothing like a new building) and has air conditioning. They wash your clothes for free and they hang them up for you. All you have to do is locate your clothes later and fold them. Anyway for 10-12 Euro /night you get a few free beers, free access to the Internet, free laundry and free breakfast. – located on Str. Avram Iancu 5, tel.: 0040-21-3155273, e-mail: [email protected], This hostel is a 10-minute walk from the center. They also offer 1-hour massages for 5 Euro. I would probably choose this hostel if you do not stay in private lodging (private lodging will usually be cheaper, and if you are nice you can usually get them to do your laundry included in the price. By the way, the free beer that the hostels offer is not that big of a deal because beer in Bucharest is very cheap). Villa Helga costs 10 Euro /day which includes breakfast, linens and laundry service (they wash your clothes for free - you just have to hang them up to dry). It is located at Salcamilor Street no. 2, Tel./Fax: (00)40/21/610 2214 E-mail: [email protected] and http://www.rotravel.com/hotels/helga/. If you take a taxi to the hostel it should cost no more than about $3 to $5 USD. This hostel is a 15-20 minute walk from the center. Several complaints have been posted on some of the travel boards about people at Villa Helga being rude and trying to rip you off. It is not clear if it is a competitor doing such postings because they are usually anonymous postings. And a lot of complaints about the taxi drivers that drop out off at Villa Helga. To get to the hostel from the main train station (Gare de Nord) take bus (79, 86 or 133) and get off at Piata Gemini (6th stop). Now you only have to walk 150 meters. Some other cheap options for lodging are the 1 star hotels in or close to the center: Muntenia Hotel (19-21 Academiei), Carpati Hotel (16 Matei Millo) a.o. Expect to pay between 25 – 52 Euro for a double in these hotels. One good sight to see in Bucharest is the Palace of the Parliament. They began building this monster building (over 6000 rooms) in 1984 during the cold war when President Ceausescu was in power and it is still not finished!. The only building in the world that is larger is the Pentagon.

If you take a taxi in Bucharest, make sure it’s a Yellow one and it says CRISTAXI on it, as they are more trustworthy and do not overcharge. Also be aware that many taxi drivers will claim that they work for Elvis’ Villa – they are lying. These drivers will overcharge you. For example, it should only cost about $1.50 for a taxi to Elvis’ Villa Hostel. The lady at the information booth in the train station can call a legit taxi for you. The Hotel Intercontinental is the best place to get your newspapers. I think that the latest IHT arrives after 4 pm. The people are friendly. The food is good. Also 2 must-see places in Bucharest are: The Village Museum and the Peasant Museum. These 2 places will give an outsider a very good overview of what Romania and its people are like. Brasov is only 2 1/2 - 4 hours from Bucharest (depends on what type of train you use). If you don’t have much time, you can visit the medieval city of Brasov in a few hours, as the Schei Quarter, the Black Church (the largest Gothic cathedral between Vienna and Istanbul) and other areas around Sfatului Sq. are close to each other. If you go to Brasov, Romania, consider staying at a one-star hotel near the center of Brasov called "Hotel Aro Sport." 2200 Brasov Str. Sfantul Ioan nr.3, tel.:068-142840. It costs 272,000 Lei (about 9 Euro) for a room with a sink (shower/bathroom down the hall). Be careful if you wait for a bus at the stop across from the main theatre, as there are many pickpockets. Another option in Brasov is the lady named Maria Bolea (and sometimes Greg Bolea) who meets travelers at the train station and offers central lodging for $10 per person. This lady loves to talk and can be overbearing. She will try to get you into an overpriced taxi driven by a friend of hers, especially if you decide to sleep somewhere other than her lodging. Another local who meets travelers at the train station is a man named Gabriel who offers a modern apartment near the train station for 10 Euros. His phone number is 004-0744-844-223 I have even heard that there are some 2 star no frills hotels in Brasov which are less expensive than Elvis’ Villa Hostel. Elvis' Villa also has hostels in Brasov and in Sighisoara. The contact info for Brasov is 2B Democratiei Str., tel.: 0040-91844940 or 0040-7121844940 (mobile), 10 Euro / person BB. Out of the 3 Elvis’ Villa hostels, this is the nicest one. Technically the Elvis’ Villa in Brasov has been sold and is now called “Kismet Dao Villa” however they still use the Elvis’ Villa website: http://www.elvisvilla.com/brasov/ Another option is Hotel Postavaru, located at #2 Politehnicii. Tel: (0268)144330. Expect to pay $16-18 for a double and $12-14 for a single. To get to this place, you need to enter through the Coroana Hotel main entrance.

In Sighisoara (pronounced sig-ee-SHWAH-ra) : Elvis' Villa YH, 10 Libertatii Str., tel.: 004-0265-772546 $10USD / person BB. If you want to avoid a hostel, private rooms in Sighisoara located in middle of Sighisoara citadel, run by Cristina Faur are an option. It is located at Str. Cojocarilor nr. 1; Tel 094 119211. Expect to pay $8 per night for a twin room. A new hostel recently opened in Sighisoara called Nathans Villa Hostel, http://www.nathansvilla.com/index.html Expect to pay 10 Euro per night, free breakfast, free laundry, no curfew, in the old town. Sw. Agnieszki 1 phone: ++48 (012) 422 35 45; email: [email protected] or [email protected] Another option in Sighisoara is to stay with family Kula. You may be approached by a girl named Petronela or Marinela (or their father John). Expect to pay $10USD per person which includes a great homemade breakfast. Another option in Sighisoara is Hotel Poienita (just outside of town, so get a cheap taxi to it). Expect to pay about the same price as the hostel but this place is more luxurious and is located in the countryside rather than the city. Serbia – Belgrade - In the US Department of State’s May 28, 2002 Travel Warnings & Consular Information Sheets for Serbia has removed the Travel Warning for Serbia. The warning remains in place for Kosovo. The best place to look for CDs (illegal copies) is the outdoors market next to the student cultural center off Kralja Milana. A cheap 3 star hotel is Hotel Royal http://www.hotelroyal.co.yu/ . This hotel used to be called Hotel Toplice. It is located at Kralja Petra #56 which is downtown on the Kralja Petra street (formerly known as 7th of July). This location is near (about 2 blocks) the Kalimegdan Bus station and a few blocks from the pedestrian street, Knez Mihailova and the train station is 1 km away from the hotel. A taxi from the train station to the hotel (1 km distance) costs 1.50 Euro. All rooms have a bathroom. Expect to pay 20 Euro for a double room for one person, or 27 Euro for a double room for 2 persons (rooms have a/c and t.v.). These prices include breakfast. The hotel also sells food for lunch that costs 3.3 Euro, or 1.30 Euro for pizza, 3.30 Euro for Karadjordje snichel, 0.70 for beer and 0.50 Euro for Vodka. Tel: +381 11 63 42 22 Fax: +381 11 62 64 59 e-mail: [email protected] One cheap lodging place is the Central, a.k.a. Centar Pansion, located right across from the main entrance of the railway station - look for the sign that says "Centar" -- it's not very well-marked, but look out for the huge pink sign that says "sex shop" and Hotel Centar is right next to it, on the left. Price is about $7.50. Another option is the Post Hotel across from the post office next to the railway station. Look into Hotel Astoria (a single room with bathroom costs 20 Euro, which includes breakfast. This hotel is near the railway station.

Another similar hotel nearby is Hotel Beograd but the price of a single room is 26 Euro. Also there is a cheap hotel or two out beside the Danube. If you take bus 84 out until you get to a small village-like place with a pedestrian mall on your right, you will find a couple of cheap hotels there around the same price. This area is right beside the Danube across the river and about 3km from the main city. Another option is the Slavija Hotel on Trg Slavija (not great service and it is located on a busy road). Double room with a view over Belgrade costs $11.50. But staying here must first be approved by the Youth Hostel Association. (Go to the Youth Hostel Office (Ferijalni savez Beograda), or call there (+381-113220762) and ask them to send a fax to the hotel. Another option is the Beograd Youth Hostel, which is located at #8 Krunska. This place costs 9 Euro /night) but the showers were not very clean. Skopje, Macedonia – the hostel in this city has air-conditioning. I think that it cost about 20 Euro per person.

The northern part of Eastern Europe - I took a bus through the 3 Baltic republics (Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania) as I think it was cheaper than trains. In these 3 countries I think that you will find pensions and private rooms to be priced very well. In Tallinn, Estonia I spent 4 days while I was arranging to get into Russia on a travel visa. It was neat and I didn't expect to be able to do it but in the main square in downtown Tallinn, there was this travel agency (Esta travel) and they arranged for me to stay in St. Petersburg and Moscow and I was very happy that I went to Russia with my friend who was fluent in Russian. There really was only a handful of restaurants in Tallin that were good - actually you probably could afford to eat almost anywhere that you wanted, but the key was finding a good quality place. - when I say the downtown I mean the old town (Vanalinn). The main Town Square (Raekoja Plats) is pretty neat and has a cool castle-like building that even has drainpipes (for water to run off the roof) that are shaped like dragon mouths! In Tallinn, there is a hostel called Vana Tom right in the middle of the old town. In the middle of the old town, there is a hostel located at #26 Uus tel: (2) 641 1281. Other lodging options are available at www.hostel.ee – click on the English link in the top right corner (you may have to do this on every page you open), then click on the Accommodation link 3 lines down..

In Lithuania I visited Vilnius and I remember seeing the KGB museum - that was really cool and the guide that gave our tour was actually a prisoner! I even saw a report in TIME when I got back in the USA and that guide's picture was in it! In Vilnius, consider the Old Town Hostel http://www.balticbackpackers.com/hostels/vilnius_old.htm at Ausros Vatu str.2015 (Gates of Dawn) close to bus/train stations, close to Old Town. Tel: (370 5) 2625 357. Email: [email protected]. This is a popular hostel and can fill up so you might want to reserve ahead. Expect to pay 9.25 Euro in a dorm. Another idea is Filaretai hostel about 15 minutes walk from old town is a good place, cheap and friendly. Check www.inyourpocket.com Riga Latvia – I should mention that Riga celebrated its 800th Anniversary in July and August, 2001. You might want to check out the Occupation Museum while you are in Riga. Some clubs in Old Town are: 1) Spalvas pa Gaisu, which is located at #8 Grecinieku St. and used to be a tuberculosis clinic, and 2) Nautlus, located at #8 Kungu St., about 100 meters from Spalvas pa Gaisu. As for lodging, one cheap place to sleep is the Arena place, behind the cathedral, located at Palasta iela 5. Tel: 722 85 83. It is kind of grubby (especially the shower), but it is cheap (US$8) and the location is unbeatable. In general rooms in the hostels outside the center of town are about 10 Euros per person per night. The hostels in Riga are: • Hostel Bastejs, Basteja bulv. #10. Tel: 721 62 21. Very centrally located on the edge of Old Riga. Dormitories with self-catering facilities. Midnight curfew. • Hostel Placis, Laimdotas str. 2a. Located in Teika area (you can reach it by bus # 1, trolley bus # 4). Dormitories with self-catering facilities. • Hostel RPRA, Nîcgales str.26, Riga. Hostel suitable for groups. • Hostel Turîba, Graudu str. 68. Tel: 761 75 43; email: [email protected] If you prefer a room in the center of town in a private home,expect to pay 25 Euro for a single and usually 40 Euro for a double. For an example of a B&B, visit Philip’s and Vera’s B&B www.freewebz.com/rigabedandbreakfast Tel: (371) 721 2039. Mobile: (371) 922 3972. Email: [email protected] This place is a 15minute walk from the bus and train stations and from the old town. The address is Elizabetes iela 35/ apartment 1. For hostels in other areas around Latvia, visit http://www.hostellinglatvia.com Bulgaria – this is a very poor country (I believe that the average monthly income is about $50) so you can imagine that you will be able to live quite cheaply here. In fact, everywhere you look, you will see cars with no windshield wipers (due to their high replacement expense and theft). One of the weirdest things about this country is that they are backwards from the rest of the world with regard to

shaking and nodding their head. For example, if they mean NO, then they will nod their head up and down. Likewise, if they mean YES, they will shake their heads from side to side. This can be very confusing for a tourist asking for directions. Sofia is the capital and worth a visit, but don’t expect the same thrills that Western Europe provides. In general, if you have to use the toilet, visit the large Sheraton hotel and go downstairs and use the restrooms there – the nicest in the country. It even provides free toilet paper! Consider the following hostel in Sofia: The Art Hostel, 21A Angel Kanchev Str., tel.: 00359-2-9870545, e-mail: [email protected] web site: www.art-hostel.com , 10 Euro/ person and an extra $1USD for breakfast. Another place to stay is called the Ramhostel where you can expect to pay 9 Euro for a single and 18 Euro for a double. It is a 12-minute metro ride to the center. Tel: 35998649283; fax: 35998649283 I stayed in a private lodging in this city. You can arrange this one of 2 ways: 1) Inside the train station there are a few agencies which have private rooms to rent. Expect the price range to be 10-15 Euro and students should get about 12 Euro. (remember to ask for a room with heating in the winter). The second way is to just walk down boulevard Maria Louiza (the street leading from the train station to the center). You will see cheap hotels (a single room can be as cheap as 12 Euro. I ran into a couple that was mugged in Sofia. When this couple arrived, some stranger approached them and told them that he loved Americans and all Bulgarians were friendly and he invited them to tea. Well, when he served them tea, he put some kind of drug in it and it impaired the tourists and the mugger beat them both up and took all of their money. All of the Bulgarians that I met were very friendly, but this is a lesson to always use common sense. Although you can find pizza (large enough for one person) for $1, don’t get too excited, because it will usually only have ketchup on it as the sauce, and very little cheese (and may be goat cheese). Quality food is hard to find. When I visited Veliko Turnovo I was not impressed. The biggest thing this city has to boast about is a “light show.” However, this only consisted of a bunch of colored lights shined upon rocks and being turned on and off with (no apparent reason). I remember killing time in a movie theatre (which charged about 40 cents for a movie) and having a few beers in a bar. In Varna you will be right on the Black Sea. There is a museum that explains Bulgaria’s maritime involvement in WWII. Also there is some dolphin aquarium that was amazingly expensive (about $25). When I went to a club in Varna, the music ranged from 50’s Elvis to 90’s techno. I met some locals who smuggled in their own Rum bottles and just ordered Coke (to save money). Plovdiv – consider stopping here. It has a cool Roman amphitheater. Avoid the guy with the dancing bear. They have very cheap kababs in the main square. There is a hostel which costs 10 Euro and has a midnight curfew. I

suggest getting a private room. I know of an old lady named Vania who charges 7.50 Euro and meets travelers at the train station. Her apartment is located on Bulevard 6 Septemvri. SLOVENIA – Ljubljana – I think that Ljubljana is drab and that you should opt for the town of Bled instead, but if you go to Ljubljana, you can take the 2-hour guided walking tour of the city for just 2.50 Euro if you are a student. Just meet in front of the city hall (rotovz) at #1 Mestni trg at 5pm. If you want to buy some shoes, this town has great prices on shoes. This town is dead on Sundays. Also, this town sees few backpackers so don’t expect much in the form of organized budget accommodations. A youth hostel recently opened in the building that used to house the prison. This place is called Hostel Celica http://www.souhostel.com/ This hostel is located 300 meters from the train station at #9 Metelkova. Email [email protected] Tel.: + 386 1 430 18 90; Fax: + 386 1 430 18 90; They charge 14 – 18 Euro but give student discounts. The older hostel is called Youth Hostel Ljubljana http://www.yh-ljubljana.com/ which is located at #57 Litijska. Email: [email protected] Tel: +386-1-548-00-55; Fax: +386-1-548-00-56. This is an HI hostel and it is open year-round. They charge 11 Euro in a dorm and 3.50 Euro for buffet breakfast. There is also Youth Hostel Dijaški dom Šiška, located at #32 Aljaževa; Tel.: 00386 (0)1 500 78 04; Fax: 00386 (0)1 500 78 20; Email: [email protected] Internet: http://www.ddsiska.com; Open from June 1 - August 25. The cheapest hotel in Ljubljana (Bit Center Hotel) is a little bit out of city center (3 - 4 km) at #57 Litijska. Tel.: 00386 (0)1 548 00 55; Fax: 00386 (0)1 548 00 56. Use the city bus to get there (from the train station it is bus #9, direction Stepanjsko naselje). Expect to pay 26.50 Euro for a single or 19.50 Euro per person for two persons or 13 Euro per person for three persons in the room, or 12 Euro for a dorm. The address for Bit Center Hotel is shared with the Hostel Ljubljana (dormitory). Another possibility is the Park hotel (located at #9 Tabor, which is 1 km from railway station and 1 km from the city center). http://www.hotelpark.si/ or http://www.tabor.si/hotel/hotel.htm Email: [email protected] Tel.: ++386 (0)1 433 13 06 or Tel: ++386 (0)1 232 13 98; Fax: ++386 (0)1 433 05 46 This place has been renovated and is spotless and modern, so make sure to ask for a room in the new section. Expect to pay around 41-46 Euro for a single, and 52-57 Euro for a double. Another option is the Hotel Turist. Right downtown (some rooms have a view of the castle). For 40 Euro you get a good breakfast buffet too, but I have heard that a twin room now costs 107 Euro, so it might not be that budget anymore. Tel.: 00386 (0)1 234 91 30; Fax: 00386 (0)1 234 91 40; Email: [email protected] Internet: http://www.hotelturist.si

For private accommodation ask at the Tourist Info Center (“TIC”) because nobody will be waiting for you at the train station. The TIC is located in 2 places, one is at the train station and another is near the famous three bridges. One of the student dorms is Dijaski Dom Tabor, and is located at #7 Vidovdanska. Tel: 234 88 40, fax 234 88 55. They even have free internet, but this place is only open during the summer (June 25- August 28). Email: [email protected] Web: http://www2.arnes.si/~ssljddta1s Another dorm is Dijaski Dom Bezigrad, located at #28 Kardeljeva Pl. Tel: 534 28 67; or 00386 (0)1 534 00 61; fax 534 28 64. Email: [email protected] This place is also only open in the summer (June 20– August 25). Another student dorm is Dijaški dom Ivana Cankarja, located at #26 Poljanska, Tel.: 00386 (0)1 474 86 00; Fax: 00386 (0)1 432 03 69; Email: [email protected] Internet: http://www.dic-lj.com Open from June 25 – August 25. Another dorm is Dijaški dom Poljane, located at #3 Potočnikova; Tel.: 00386 (0)1 300 31 37; Fax: 00386 (0)1 232 74 73; Email: [email protected] Open June 15- July 31 One last option is called Avtokamp Jezica, which is located at #270 Dunajska (Dunajska is the street next to the Railway station) You can reach it by taking the #8 bus - direction Jezica (a ticket costs about 1 Euro). Visit www.gpl.si or http://www.gpl.si/gpl/avtocamp_jezica.htm Tel: 386(1)568 39 13, fax: +386(1)568 39 12; e - mail: [email protected] This place is a campgrpound for people traveling by car, but you can stay there even if you do not have a car. Expect to pay 1320 SIT (5.75 Euro) + tax+ 20% discount (the discount is because you are a pedestrian (no auto). They also offer bungalows and in the summer they cost 9210 SIT (40 Euro). Keep in mind that the local currency (Solvene Tolars) are worthless except in Slovenia and Croatia, so make sure to exchange any money before you leave. Bled, Slovenia – This town is about 1 1/2 hour bus ride from Ljubljana (a bus every hour). The bus ride from Ljubljana to Bled costs about 5 Euro. Bled has a good HI hostel called Penzion Bledec or Youth Hostel Bledec, which is located at #17 Grajska cesta. Tel: 574 52 50, email: [email protected] Web: www.mlino.si When I heard that this place costs 4000 Sit (17 Euro) per person, I told its proprietor, Madja, that the price didn’t seem correct because that is what hostels in western Europe cost, and the response was “we are western Europe.” CROATIAFor background information and to find some private lodging in Croatia, the following website will be helpful: www.croatia.hr

Zagreb – One hostel in the center is the Omladinski Turisticki Centar (Petrinjska 77, (tel. (01) 484 1261 or 484 12 47). Don’t expect much from this hostel, especially concerning the showers or toilets. It is pretty dirty and has an unfriendly staff. The owner will actually yell at you if you don’t have the exact amount and he has to make change. Expect to pay $10-$15 in a double. Although this place is located right next to the train station, I would not suggest staying here. Another hostel (and the only other hostel during non-summer time) is Hostel Ravnice, 1 Ravnice Str., # 38B, tel./fax: 00385-1-2332325, [email protected], Expect to pay $10USD / person in QTR room. This place is not exactly in the center of town, but there is a nearby tram stop. (routes 4, 7, 11 or 12). This place is a much better option. There is also a Student Hotel Cvjetno (Odranska 8 (tel. (01) 619 12 45) that operates from July 15 to October, but it costs more. Consider not staying in Zagreb as it is boring, and opting for Plitvice Park for the day, and then down to Zadar or Split. If you travel down the coast (most people do not go to Croatia to only see Zagreb) you will find that a lot of people rent rooms in their houses to travelers. These are usually pretty good value and comparable in price to the Zagreb hostel. You should have no problem finding a local’s home to stay in when you are outside Zagreb. Generally people will approach you at the train or bus station and offer you a room. However, this accommodation option is usually in the touristy places outside of Zagreb such as the Istrian Peninsula or the Dalmatian Coast. When in Zagreb, expect that you will have to stay in the hostel. In general, the little old ladies that swarm you at the ferry and bus station will bring the best rate, but don’t take their first offer. Many old ladies will argue with each other to get you to stay with them. Make sure that their home is close to town. They will lie and tell it is “Central” in their best English. Get them to point it out on a map. If no old ladies are around in a city when you arrive, just look for signs that say “Sobe” or “Zimmer” or “Rooms.”. Some other hostels are listed at the following website: http://www.nncomp.com/hfhs/hfhs1.html Dubrovnik – Plenty of old women will meet you at the train station and try and talk you into staying with them for a long time. They can all be talked down in price. If not, then try and get them to do your laundry for you. Never pay more than 15 Euro per night lodging in this city under any circumstance. Consider staying at the Begovic boarding house (listed in Lonely Planet), where you can meet other travelers. The guy who runs the place will meet you at the ferry or bus stop with a sign that says “Recommended by LP.” The rooms are clean, there is a great deck, and if his place is full he will arrange for you to stay with a neighbor. Expect to pay 80 Kuna / night. To travel from Dubrovnik to Split you will either have to take a ferry or go by bus (no train). Expect the ferry to take about 6 hours and the bus to take about 4

hours. The buses are like coaches and quite comfortable, but you might want to sit on a towel because the seat fabric is kind of scratchy (if you're wearing shorts). In Split the old ladies will meet you (there is no hostel in this city). Don’t pay more than about 10-12 Euro for lodging. If you plan on taking ferries in Croatia, visit http://www.jadrolinija.hr .and print out the schedules (in English) and bring them with you. Otherwise, learn some Croatian before you arrive. FYI - There are no ferries from Croatia to Greece, but you can do it via Italy - Dubrovnik to Bari. Regarding the cities on the coast, consider Trogir, which is a walled city, and offers day trips to places such as Hvar, Brac, Split. TURKEY – in Istanbul expect it to be very hot in the summer. Istanbulwas rated as the #4 city in Europe and the #9 city on the world by Travel and Leisure magazine in August 2003 (Paris and London aren’t even in the top ten according to the ratings). There is a cultural difference in this country (as it is more like the Middle East than like Europe). Men can do just fine wearing shorts and a T-shirt, but women should read the travel books about proper clothing. I arrived in Istanbul by bus and when I got off the bus, there was no place to exchange money and I was on the outskirts of this huge city (12 million people). I eventually caught a tram/bus into town and got out at the Grand Bizarre (a huge old-world mall under a roof) and since I still had my big backpack strapped to my back, several people approached me and offered lodging. We ended up staying at a bed and breakfast (they called it a hotel) which was just off the water and located right near the Blue Mosque and it was about $15/night and that included breakfast. This city is huge and amazing. If you are traveling solo, then you probably cannot afford a hotel and may want to opt for “Moonlight Pension” in Sultanahmet (quieter then the “Orient” which is a party hostel). Moonlight is located at #87 Akbiyik Cad. Tel: 517 54 29; or 90 (212) 518 85 36 or 90 (212) 517 54 29; email [email protected]. Web: http://abone.superonline.com/~moonlight/ Expect to pay 5 Euro for a dorm, 16 Euro for a double, and 21 Euro for a triple. Regarding the Orient - it is a dirty and poorly-maintained hostel. Avoid booking there in advance, as you'll be overcharged. Booking ahead, you will pay $8/night, but when you walk in, the price is just $5-6. I stayed at a place called Seagull Pension, which is located near the blue mosque. Tel: 517 11 42. Email [email protected] Expect to pay 5 Euro for a dorm, 10 Euro for a single, and 20-25 Euro for a double. I enjoyed this place, but was woken up several mornings with the wailing of the mosques (they blast this prayer all over the city and the pension does not have windows that closed). We also walked past some people killing a sheep in the street on our way to the blue mosque one morning. Don’t get me wrong, it is safe, but just very different from what I am used to seeing back home. Try www.hotelsturkey.com and www.waytoturkey.com for some info.

Another lodging option is the Side (pronounced see-day) Pension in Sultanahmet. It's near the Four Seasons Hotel, and cost about $35 USD per night for a double room with shared bath. As Ouzo is the drink of choice in Greece, a similar drink is Turkey is called Rakki. Backpackers drink this usually in the form of a shot. There is something neat about Rakki and Ouzo. When you drink it straight it is clear and looks like Vodka. When you water it down, it gets all cloudy. So, you do not have to worry about the bartenders ripping you off! You may decide to not go to bars, and opt instead to buy a $2 bottle of Rakki and get smashed at your place of lodging. All over Istanbul there are guys that walk around with these huge silver coolers on their back and the coolers contain some type of juice. Well, you can buy a drink of juice from the guy (he carries a single glass with him, which he wipes off after each use with a rag) for small change. Although this drink is cheap and refreshing, remember that it is made from water, and you are not sure where that water came from. I got sick in this town. I am still not sure if it was from drinking this stuff or from eating shish kababs. Probably neither one was a good idea and I would suggest avoiding both. Ephesus and SelcukEphesus is an ancient city which was destroyed about 70 times by earthquakes. You would think that they would have stopped rebuilding it, huh? Anyway, when I arrived by bus we stayed in Selcuk as a base and did Ephesus as a day trip. Also from Selcuk they have mini buses to Kusadasi every 20 minutes (it is about a 20 minute bus ride). Anyway, in Selcuk there is the Artemis guest house (tel: 892 19 82) expect to pay $5. Email: [email protected] There is also a Pension in Selcuk called the All Blacks Hotel and Pension (Tel: 892 36 57) Expect to pay a Euro or so higher than the Artemis Guest house. [email protected] By the way, they sell a local beer that is pretty good and it is called Efes (Efes is short for Ephesus). Russia - when the train crosses the boarder, these machines actually lift the train off of the tracks and replace the wheels (because the tracks in Russia are a different size). That is really neat to watch (you are still in the train when they lift each car). If you do not know Russian, then you will have a much harder time getting by in Russia than in Western (or even Eastern) Europe. Concerning the main destinations - my advice is to spend more time in St. Petersburg rather than Moscow. If you go during the month of June, you will experience White Nights festival in St. Pete since it is up there by the Arctic Circle and it stays light late into the night. The people all come out at 2:00 am to see the raising of the city's drawbridges and celebrate and party on the river banks. The bridges close back at about 5:00 am.. Vodka is the drink of choice and rather than drinking Stoli, try the local favorite, called “5 Stars.”

I traveled through Belarus and I think I traveled on a 24-hour transit visa, so we never got off the train (but keep in mind if you go directly from Moscow through Belarus and do not get off of the train, how do you eat? There were these old ladies in babushkas on the platform selling beer and sausages and Pepsi and you can just buy it from them by handing the Rubles out of the train window down to them. In order to get the visa into Russia you can arrange to get one when you are near the boarder. When I was in Estonia (Tallinn) I went to a local travel agency and they made all of the arrangements and for about $20 per day we got lodging in an apartment and the lady even washed our clothes for $4. I am not sure that the prices are still the same. The travel agency had a list of people in several cities that were willing to take visitors and then they provided the invitation letter (I never even saw it) and the travel agency took care of everything (obtained the visa for us) - we stayed in Russia for 5 days total - I can't remember for sure, but it may have been a 1 week visa - anyway, we had to stay in Tallinn, Estonia for 4 days for all of that to get done, so if you can arrange it before hand from your home, do so – that way you do not kill time waiting. There is a scam that is being run in Moscow that you should know about. Be cautious anywhere near the Gum side of Red Square. The scam is as follows, there are two men. The first one drops what appears to be a roll of bills inside a plastic baggy. The second man looks at the dropped money and then looks at you, the tourist and will point at the money. The goal is for you to pick up the money and when you do both will accuse you of stealing the money and then they will mug you. Don’t even touch the dropped money. I suggest you quickly leave the area and immediately find a police officer to hang out near for a few minutes until the scammers leave. ICELAND – some of you may consider flying Icelandair and stopping over in Reykjavik. If so, make sure to go to the Blue Lagoon. The Blue Lagoon is about 30-45 minutes outside of the city (or about 15 minutes from the Keflavik Airport); there are busses and bus tours that go. This is a man-made lagoon which is fed by runoff from a local power plant and it is hot (104 degrees F), mineral-filled water that glows blue! Thingvellir, with the tectonic plate fissures, is usually part of what's called the "Golden Circle" (a.k.a. “golden triangle”) tour. You can buy a Circle Pass if you want (see www.bsi.is for info). If you go out dancing –go to a club called NASA. Who knows how long that name will remain, but that is what it used to be called. To enjoy a nice view, you can go to the Perlan restaurant or the top of the Hallgrímskirkja church tower. If you have more than a day or two, go swimming in one of the public swimming pools. The one in Árbær (Árbæjarlaug) has a great view over Reykjavík. In general the outdoor pools, are cheap ($2 or $3 for a outdoor pool and you can stay the whole day). The pools are open all year long and the opening hours are from 6 am to 10 pm.

If you are there on June 17, you will see the celebrations for Independence Day. Even during the hottest part of summer, expect the temperature to only be about 58 degrees F. The airport itself isn't really in Reykjavik, but in a town nearby (45 minutes away), called Keflavik. There are only 5-6 shops and 3-4 gates at this airport. If you want to have a look at the airport here is the website: http://www.randburg.com/airport/ The two things to remember about this country is that it is safe and it is expensive. While in Iceland, expect that dinner in a restaurant is extremely expensive. It is easy to spend $80 USD for dinner. Keep in mind that tipping is not expected in Iceland. Iceland discourages drinking (it was only legalized in the mid 1980’s) so expect alcohol prices to be high - expect a beer to run you $9 and a mimosa-type drink to be $16. A McDonalds value meal is about $7 or $8. For some weird reason, hotdogs are the national snack (probably because they are cheap). A decent place to go for lunch /dinner is some of the cafes such as Kaffibrennslan (they offer nice dish of catch of the day with a soup for around $ 9); Cafe Victor, Kaffi List. Expect a pizza to cost about $20. The best value food is hot dogs, Chinese, Thai and Mexican food, and of course you can get all kinds of sandwiches and ready-made food in supermarkets As for cheap food in Reykjavik - the most expensive supermarket is the Nykaup at Kringlan Shopping Mall (get bus 112/113/114/115/116 from Laekjatorg). The cheapest supermarket is Bonus located throughout the city. Fast food isn't cheap anywhere but if you can stand hot dogs (called pylsa), they are very cheap and can be found anywhere. They cost about 150kr ($1.50) (1.78 Euro) each. Also, consider heading for a turkish gyro stand. There is also a pizzeria called Eldsmidjan that's quite good and pretty inexpensive. You can get a large pizza, garlic bread and soft drinks for 2 people for about 2000kr (23.7 Euro). You can also always get cake or sandwiches and coffee in any cafe for about 500kr (5.9 Euro). A good and cheap place to eat is "litli ljoti andarunginn" in Laekjargata. In the summer they have a fish and seafood buffet for 1500-1700 IKR (18-20 Euro). Consider these places to sleep International Youth Hostel http://www.hostel.is/heimilin/Reykjavik/Eindex.htm Email: [email protected] Sundlaugavegur 34, 105 REYKJAVÍK. TEL.: ( 354 ) 553 8110 If you are not a member, expect to pay 1900 ISK (22.50 Euro) in a shared dorm, shared bathroom If you want a private bathroom expect to pay 2500 ISK (29.75 Euro) for a room that sleeps 3-6, and expect to pay 3500 ISK (41.50 Euro) for a double. They will charge you 500 ISK (6 Euro) for linens for the entire stay. Breakfast costs 700 ISK (8.30 Euro). This place is located

east of town in the Laugardalur Valley (about a 20-30 minute walk to the center of town). This hostel is adjacent to the largest swimming pool in Reykjavík From Keflavík International Airport take the Flybus and request that it take you directly to the Hostel. Bus no. 5 stops just outside the Hostel and drives to the center of Reykjavík 3 times each hour. During the summer time there is free bus transfer from the hostel to BSI (The central station for buses in Iceland ) at 07:15. Salvation Army Guesthouse http://www.guesthouse.is/ Email: [email protected] -- Tel: + (354) 5613203 Kirkjustraeti 2 IS-101, Reykjavik This is located in an excellent downtown location. Sleeping bag accommodation for 1800 ISK (21.30 Euro), 4 bed room 8500 ISK (101 Euro), triple is 7000 ISK (83 Euro), double is 5500 ISK (65.30 Euro), and a single is 4000 ISK (47.50 Euro) . Breakfast is 800 ISK (9.50 Euro). Its a great value given the Old Town location. The Salvation Army Guesthouse is also located in the club area for weekend nightlife. You can get into most clubs for free before midnight, but charge anywhere from ISK 500 (6 Euro) to 1500 ISK (18 Euro) afterward. The only downside to this hostel is the 1:00AM curfew – but ask and it might be extended for you. The Airport bus stops right outside the Salvation Army Guesthouse. Just tell the busdriver that you are going to stay at The Salvation Army Guesthouse, and he will take you to the door. The airport bus should get you to the hostel for 10 Euro each way. I have heard about another hostel called YOUTH HOSTEL Njarovikurbraut 52 Reykjavik 22 Euro shared dorm, shared bathroom. But I don’t have any more info about that place. Hostels in other cities in Iceland can be found at http://www.hostel.is/ A Guesthouse in Reykjavik is: Central Guesthouse, located at #8 Bólstaðahlíð Tel. + 354 552 2822; Fax + 354 562 3535. In the summer, expect to pay: 54 Euro for a single room, 68 Euro for a double room, 81 Euro for a triple room, Sleeping bag acc. pr person, ISK 26 Euro,-Breakfast is 9 Euro. If you want to rent a car, use the company called ALP (it charges around 80 Euro per day, unlimited mileage, with insurance). The rate at Herz is almost double.

The two main tour companies are Reykjavik Excursions and Iceland Exertions, and the main travel agency that books these tours is Destination Iceland. If you do not rent a car, then you probably need to take one of these tours. ----------------------------------------------I suggest saving this document in your email. That way if you get to Europe and need any information that I have addressed you can visit an internet café (or a hostel that has internet access) and simply pull this document up. This might be useful if you don’t have all of your lodging reserved in advance. For example, if you roll into Venice or Rome and all of the places that you have listed in your guidebook have no availability, you will have a fall-back option when you realize that my document listed a ton of places in Venice and Rome. I am providing this information for free, I only ask that after you travel to Europe, you please email me a short email and let me know if any of my information was not accurate. That way I can keep it up-to-date and it can continue to help other backpackers. Also, because I send my information all over the world, if you live in one of the countries that I have commented on, please review my material to verify its accuracy. For example, if you live in Dublin and are planning on backpacking through France and Germany, please still read my information on Dublin. I ask this because sometimes people walk past a hostel in their hometown every day and one day the hostel closes. If that is the case, I would appreciate knowing that so I can remove it from my information. Hope that helps – Dave – a.k.a. snorkelman [email protected]