1 Backpacking Euro Info 1

Backpacking Europe info #1 of 4 - This document (document 1 of 4) is 35 pages long I received your e-mail & wanted to send some info. If you are reading this with less than one week left before you depart for Europe, you might be better off printing this out and reading it on the plane. The best case scenario is if you are reading this 3-12 months in advance of your trip. Ok, I have put together a bunch of info for first time backpackers. This started out as a few pages of advice, but over the last few years I have received so many questions that I soon found myself typing the same thing over and over. Finally I decided to put together a large (30-page) document for first time backpackers. However, after people heard about my experience, I received more specific requests. So I put together another document all about hostels. My documents grew in size and some people complained that their Internet Service Providers could not handle the large size of the files, so I had to break the files up into smaller files. I currently have 4 large files. This information is intended to help people that are traveling to Europe for the first time and don’t have a clue! I know that many veteran backpackers have also benefited from my information. I have posted tips for first time backpackers on many websites and some of my tips and suggestions have been printed in different travel guides (some of which give me credit and others present the information as their own). I am confident that you will not find anyone else who will send you as much helpful information for free. Anyway, here are my suggestions/advice after many backpacking adventures: I have compiled four documents. The first two are background information and give some tips and general information about backpacking. The third and fourth documents gives you some detail about specific cities and lodging options. In general, document #3 deals with places in Western Europe and document #4 deals with places in Eastern Europe. If you have any problems opening any of the documents due to size, email me back and I may be able to break the larger document down into 2 smaller documents. The documents #3 and #4 list many hostels and prices. Obviously prices change. I am only one person and I try and keep up with the price changes, but unlike the travel guidebooks, which employ a staff of workers, I maintain this information all by myself. Therefore, before you rely entirely on my information, call or email or visit the hostel website for the most up-to-date info. If you have plenty of time before your trip, then when you put together the list of hostels at which you would like to stay, double check the prices. I would not suggest that you base your hostel decisions solely on my information. For example, if you narrow it down to two hostels and one is listed as 3 Euro cheaper in my information, realize that it is possible that the information that I received is a couple years old, and maybe the hostels are currently the same rate. Bottom line, I try to update all of the hostel prices annually, but don’t put all your eggs in one basket. Please realize that prices change. Even if I have the up-to-date price in October, by June, the price might increase. Also, if I update the price and

the value of the dollar or Euro changes, then the price will also usually change a little bit. If the value of the currency changes, then the larger the price, the more drastic the difference. Keep that in mind because although the price for a dorm may differe only one or two Euro, the price for a quad may be off by 8-10 Euro. You will have this exact same problem with all travel books because they go to press months before you buy them. If you see a hostel listed in my information and also in another travel book, use the most expensive price to make your decisions. If you have time, email the hostels in advance to get the most up-to-date prices (even if you don’t make a reservation). A week before you depart for Europe, you can spend an hour and email 50 hostels and within a few days you will have the most up-to-date prices. I try and list the most expensive prices because most backpackers travel in the high season (July and August). So, if you are traveling in May or September, or other parts of the year, such as in the winter, all of the prices should be cheaper than what I have listed, with the exception being during holidays. I have traveled extensively (over 50 countries) and have been to Europe many times and even lived in Holland while I “studied” a fall semester. Anyway, I have backpacked multiple times all over Europe and have been to most of the typical places. I can give you the point of view from either a solo traveler (as I have traveled solo several times) and I have traveled with another friend of mine (two college guys on a party trip) a few times, and I even traveled by car twice with a family. By far, my most helpful insights will be from my backpacking adventures. Don’t worry about asking me about out of the way places like Turkey, Bulgaria, Estonia etc, as I have been from Spain to Russia. You can e-mail me questions directly at [email protected] if you like, but please only ask me questions after you have completely read all of my information. I often receive emails asking me for my input on a sample itinerary, and I enjoy responding to these, so feel free to email me a draft itinerary (listing the cities and the time allocated for each one) and I will give you my feed back. Background info available on the Internet I suggest also viewing a few websites that give tips. One good site to look at is http://www.oldcontinent.com/faq/ this site probably has the answer to many standard questions. A website with a good overview of what you need to know is http://www.travelindependent.info Also, I strongly suggest visiting some of the European travel forums, which are in bulletin board formats. Whenever I have a question, that is where I go for an answer. Also, when I have time, I try to answer questions on these sites that others have asked. These forums are question and answer format that really cover most issues. I suggest the following order as most helpful: http://www.eurotrip.com/forum/ (very active board with very experienced guests) http://lonelyplanet.com (look in the thorntree section – also very active)

http://guideforeurope.com/ (scroll down and click on message forum) http://www.virtualtourist.com (also very active) http://on.starblvd.net/meet/Sports_and_Recreation/Travel/backpacking/ http://messages.independenttraveler.com/ http://www.frommers.com/ http://www.fodors.com/forums/ (good for restaurant and hotel info) http://letsgo.com http://www.xiph.co.uk Please keep in mind that many novice backpackers ask the exact same question every few days as questions posted by others, which kind of annoys some of the people that frequent these boards, so please spend some time reading other posts and also USE THE SEARCH FUNCTION before you post a question of your own. I bet that 99% of your questions have already been asked, and many experienced backpackers have already given answers. After you have done several hours of planning, you can create an itinerary and post it on some of the above boards for input from other experienced travelers. It is very helpful to do this (for instance, others can tell you quickly that budgeting more than half a day in Pisa is too much). The prices listed in this information may not be in your currency. Also some of the prices are referenced in older currency (pre-Euro) so you might have to figure out the conversions on some of those things (I have converted all of the prices that I found in a quick search). In an effort to help you, all prices that are stated in U.S. Dollars in this document can be converted to Euro. In general, one Euro equals one US Dollar. The conversion rate is 1.00 Dollar =.77 Euro (€) 1.00 Euro = 1.29 Dollar Also, here are some other conversions that you might find handy: Australia

1.00 US Dollar 1.00 AUDollar 1.00 AUDollar 1.00 Euro

= 1.37 AUDollar = 0.732 US Dollar = 0.616 Euro = 1.62372 AUDollar

Canada

1.00 US Dollar 1.00 CDN Dollar 1.00 CDN Dollar 1.00 Euro

= 1.36 CDN Dollar = 0.737 US Dollar = 0.62 Euro = 1.613 CAD

Keep in mind that the currency conversions change daily. Any prices quotes in these 4 documents that are listed in US Dollars might have changed

slightly due to the current value of the US Dollar, so I have attempted to give price quotes in Euro when I could (even in countries, such as Switzerland, that do not use the Euro). You should learn how to do currency conversions before you go to Europe so you understand how much something costs. For example, if you see that a dorm room costs 21 Euro, you can figure out how much that costs in your normal currency as follows: For Americans, you look above and see that 1.00 Euro = 1.19 Dollar Since you know that the dorm costs 21 Euro, you simply multiply by the conversion of 1.19. So, 21 Euro X 1.19 US Dollar = $24.99 (US Dollars). So, when you see a dorm room listed as 21 Euros, that will cost you $25. For those of you who hate conversions, get over it because it is important that you understand how to convert in order for you to travel within your budget. You can quickly see that if the US dollar drops in value (such as 1 Euro being equal to 1.4 USD, then things will cost more for you because that 21 Euro dorm bed will cost you $29.40 (US Dollars) – I reached that example by multiplying 21 Euro by 1.4 USD. This simple example shows you that the Canadians and Australians are getting screwed because their currency sucks and that is why you will hear plenty of Canadian and Australian backpackers complaining about how expensive things are in Europe. Currencies fluctuate and not too long ago the conversion rate between US Dollars and Euro was much more favorable for Americans (1 Euro = about 90 cents). If you get lucky, when you travel your local currency will be strong. If you need to check different currency conversions, many websites offer this function. Two such websites are http://www.xe.com/ucc/convert.cgi and http://etravel.org/exchange These currency conversion websites are also good to check the current conversion rates because the rates fluctuate daily and I do not update this document that frequently. Generally, I can give you some advice after you have started your homework. First off, you should recruit someone to travel with you as it is more fun and easier to get lodging (and you can save money) if there are two or three people. Then you should buy some books. Guidebooks You should plan on bringing one or two guide books with you such as Fodors Up Close Europe 2005, Let’s Go Europe 2005, Lonely Planet's Europe on a Shoestring, Rough Guide’s, Rick Steves’ Europe through the Backdoor or Frommers (In general Rick Steves’ books are not for backpackers, but rather for older folks who want to travel independently but have no clue how (and they usually only list one hostel). Also Frommers focuses a little more on the traveler with a higher budget). There are also other guides that specifically tell you all of the youth hostels in Europe, but this may or may not be a wise investment. Everyone has their own preference so I suggest spending half an hour at a book

store and look through several comprehensive guides and see which one you like the best. Also, I suggest seeing if your library has a copy of some of these other ones, such as Frommers and just adding a few names and numbers (to whichever travel book that you do buy) for the countries that you will be visiting (or if you go to out of the way places) as backups in case you need them. The important thing is to get the most recent version of the book. This is because the older the books are, the more likely that the material contained therein (prices/telephone numbers) is outdated. The same is true for old postings in the Internet. You can also do plenty of this research in the Internet before you leave the USA. Hostel listings are widely available on the Internet and if you have time, get as many hostels and pensions added (or updated) to your Let’s Go book (written in by hand) as you can find before you leave America (especially for the smaller towns that you plan on visiting (or anywhere in Eastern Europe). Throughout this document I will refer to Let’s Go for ease of making my point, but I am simply referring to whichever travel guide book you decide to buy and bring. I personally would buy another guide over Let’s Go because most college students will have Let’s Go and when you want a place to sleep, if everyone is using the same book, those places will fill up first and you will be SOL. Don’t worry, all of the main books suggest the same sights to see & places to go, so you will not be missing out on sightseeing or partying by choosing one book over another. Keep in mind that if your travel guide book describes a hostel as loud, noisy or festive – expect that it will be a party hostel. A good idea is if there are 2 of you travelling, then one can carry Let’s Go and the other will carry Fodors or Lonely Planet or some other book – that way you have two guides instead of one, and not any extra weight. I would put the Lonely Planet at the top of your list. There are plenty of other good options and I listed the most popular ones above. You should visit your local library and/or a very large book store and spend an hour looking through the different books until you find one with which you feel comfortable. I say this because you might find some of these books (such as Rick Steves’ and Frommers) as being focused on an older traveler with a larger budget. I will also make reference to doing things before you leave the USA, this assumes that you are an American. Obviously, if you are not American, then just replace USA with your country and the meaning will be relevant (the point is that I suggest that you do certain things while you are in your home country before you fly to Europe – such as getting a Eurail pass!). That being said, now read the front of these travel books and you will see what you will need to buy (backpacks), money/passport hiding spots, how to get cheap airline tickets, and what a Eurail pass is and which one is best for you. These books go into detail and are very helpful in this area. Eurail pass http://www.raileurope.com/us/ and http://www.eurorail.com/ are helpful sites to find out about the Eurail pass. The last time that I visited the latter webpage, they even had a link for “rail rookie starting points” that gave general info for people that have never purchased a Eurail pass. Depending on what type of trip you are planning, you can tailor your railpass for that. Also, some

trips will be more economical if you do not buy a rail pass and just buy a point to point ticket. The less that you travel, the better the point to point tickets are. Go to this link if you think that point to point traveling might be for you. http://www.ricksteves.com/rail/timecostmap.htm When you are ready to buy your railpass, visit http://www.railpass.com/ (or call 1-877-RAILPASS) and you will get a good price (or use your student travel agency such as STA Travel). They specialize in selling railpasses so they can answer any questions that you have about the different passes. In general, most backpackers should buy some type of Eurail pass (whether it is a flexi-pass or an unlimited pass) since most backpackers will travel to multiple countries. Although a Eurail pass is expensive, it is usually cheaper than buying separate train tickets for each leg of travel that you will do. Also, the biggest benefit is that with a Eurail, you do not have to wait in any lines to buy a ticket (there are some exceptions such as getting a couchette, sleeper or a seat reservation). I have used several different types of Eurail passes depending on my particular situation & timeframe. For instance, if you are in Europe for a month and you have no plans at all or plan on seeing as much as possible and probably will do a whirlwind tour of all of the major cities (and just stay a short time in each city) then you probably will make good use of the unlimited pass. However, if you will be in certain towns for days or a week at a time without train travel, then probably a flexi-pass is better. If you will only be in a few countries, then there are passes that specialize in just certain countries. Most experienced backpackers might not realize that Romania can now be covered by a Eurail select pass. If you do not have an unlimited pass, then you may want to pay for any small daytrips (or trips in cheaper areas such as in Eastern Europe) with cash instead of using a whole day of travel. For instance, Florence to Pisa one way costs about $4 USD. If you are staying in Florence for 2-3 days and take a day trip to Pisa, just pay for the ticket at the train station rather than validating the flexi pass for a whole day. In general, second class is the way most backpackers go. Usually there are less first class cars and the seats are more comfortable, usually bigger and the cars are usually air-conditioned. Sometimes you must buy a 1st class Eurail (depending on you age). You can always sit in 2nd class if you have a 1st class pass, but never the other way around. Eurail passes always increase in price at the beginning of the year. If you are smart and have advance knowledge that you will need a Eurail pass, you can get your Eurail pass at lower prices due to a Eurail rule loophole. This loophole allows you to buy your pass at the old year prices and still have 6 months to start traveling. For example, if you purchase rail passes on December 30th, 2003, you may start your trip (validate your Eurail pass) anytime through June 30th 2004. Obviously, if you are reading this after January 1 and you plan on traveling in the summer, than you have missed the window and you will have to pay the new year price.

The 5 country Eurail Europass that covers only France, Germany, Spain, Italy and Switzerland wa discontinued in 2003. Otherwise, you will have to buy one of the other many Eurail pass options. Surcharges in addition to the Eurail Also, after you buy your Eurail, expect to pay a little extra on some of the tickets in Europe (not every ticket will be included in the price of the Eurail) such as when you take the fast trains (TGV in France) you will have to pay a $5 supplement and you will have to make (seat) reservations on some of the trains (also a few extra bucks), and most of the ferries charge a port charge of a few dollars. I used to take my chances and sometimes just walk the trains and sit in between the carriages (if no seats were available), but this is only in emergency situations because the conductors can kick you off at the next stop (and sometimes do). In fact, my last time in Greece, the train was full on the day that I wanted to leave and the next train didn’t depart for about 10 hours and I decided to get on with my Eurail and no seat reservation (even though the boards indicated that a reservation was required), but the conductor just happened to board the train right behind us and when he saw we didn’t have a reservation he kicked us off right at the station before the train even left. We were pissed, but some other guys that were traveling with us (also without reservations) did not appear to get kicked off. Well, the next day when we arrived at our destination, we actually saw the other guys and they told us that the conductor eventually caught up with them and kicked them off the train at some little po-dunk town with nothing (no food, no bathroom) and they had to wait until the next train came by (the same one that we got stuck on). So, learn from my lessons – if the boards indicate that a seat reservation is required, go ahead and get the reservation. Train (seat) reservations In general, you can make seat reservations right before you board the train, or a few days/weeks before. However, if you pull into a town and you already know that the next leg of your trip will require a seat reservation, then while you are at the train station, just make your reservation at that time - when you make a seat reservation, the only choices that you have is smoking or non smoking and 1st or 2nd class. FYI in many countries the ticket people (where you make the reservation) may not understand English (or not too well) and I find that it is easiest to spell everything out for them. Make sure that they see that you already have a Eurail pass and that way they will not try to sell you a ticket for the journey. For example, if you want a train from Amsterdam to Berlin on June 15, 2005 and the train departs Amsterdam at 7:00 a.m. and arrives in Berlin at 5:30 p.m., and you want non smoking then I would get a sheet of paper and a pen and physically write this out for the person at window (before you are waited on) and just hand it to them with your Eurail and also tell them in English what you want to do. I would write the above information like this:

15/6/05 Amsterdam --> Berlin 7:00 a.m. -----> 17:30 p.m. and then draw a picture of a cigarette with a slash through it Remember that when you write the date in numerical fashion in Europe to write the DAY first and then the MONTH and then the year. Also remember that the times will always be listed in what american’s refer to as “military time” which is simply using the 24 hour clock. If you do not understand that 17:30 means 5:30 p.m, and that 21:00 means 9:00 pm, then ask for help BEFORE YOU LEAVE HOME from someone to explain this to you. If you are in France and you want to take a fast TGV train, make sure to write TGV on the paper that you give the window person. I always write this stuff down and hand it to the person at the window, even if I am fluent in the language. That way, they don’t mix it up by mistake. As soon as the attendant gives you your reservation or whatever you just bought, look at it and make sure that it is correct. If you board a train that does not require a seat reservation, realize that many people will still have purchased seat reservations. Therefore, when you board the train, you need to do two things: 1) look for a compartment that has visible room for you; 2) look at the window/wall outside the compartment to see if all of the seats are reserved. This second step is important because if you get on and grab a vacant seat, you might later be kicked out when the person shows up half an hour later and is holding a reservation. That really sucks if that happens to you and when you get kicked out, the train is full, because you will either have top stand, or sit in the hall way. I am a great believer in using credit card whenever possible to save hassle (especially if they do not charge a service fee). If possible, I always pay for any surcharges or couchettes with a credit card (some places require cash). I prefer credit cards so I can make less trips to the bank or money exchange, especially if I have almost run out of money for that country and I am about to leave (always keep a few bucks so you can buy some food for the train). In general Visa and Mastercard will charge 1% fee for currency conversions. Make sure to check that your credit card company (whichever bank is sponsoring your card) does not also charge its own fee. I have heard that Chase and First Card charge an additional 2%. (actually I hear that there are no conversion fees for Chase Visa but 2% for Chase Mastercard). US Bank (Northwest Airlines card) charged a whopping 3%. I know that MBNA does not charge the extra fees. If you do not have the time to make your reservation when you arrive in a town – no biggie. You can make it anytime before you leave. Be aware that in the summer months for the most popular routes, sometimes the train will actually

run out of seats, so it is wise to try to make a reservation as far in advance as possible. However, when I pull into a new town, my main priorities have always been changing money (not that important if I am in a country that uses the Euro), and getting lodging lined up. Then I can swing by the train station later (but this usually wastes time in that city) or just get to the station before the actual departure time and hope there is an available seat. I highly suggest that you line up your lodging (at least call around and find a place that is still vacant) before you stand in any line to get a reservation out of that town. After all, who knows, you may meet some cool people and stay longer or change your plans, and then the reservation will have been wasted. I usually only get a reservation if it is required (not all trains require reservations). Getting back on track, then buy the airline ticket and Eurail pass (and if you think it is worth it, you can get a youth hostel card). Youth Hostel Card I have mixed feelings and I am not sure that the youth hostel card is a good buy for everyone. I suggest researching hostels prior to your trip if possible and try to determine which hostels you would like to stay in for each city that you plan on visiting. Then look to see what type of hostels the majority are. Then maybe buy that type of hostel card (there are different types of hostel cards). My experience has varied and 2 of my trips I had spent more on the hostel card than I would have spent had I not had the card and just paid the small fee at the hostel for not having a card. Then again, some hostels do not accept you at all during the busy season unless you have the card (but in my experience, that is rare). Bottom line, I will not ever buy a hostel card again. There is an age limit in official German (DJH) youth hostels of 26 - but only in Bavaria. Not in the other German states. Check http://www.backpackernetwork.de for independent hostels in Munich if you are older than 26 (they don't have any age limit). Then you should buy your International Student ID card (available at most university travel shops or with your Eurail stuff). This card will get you a 1020% discount at museums and other attractions in Europe. In general, this card is worth the cost because you will get discounts at things such as museums and I believe that I also got discounts at other attractions such as the Eiffel Tower, Pompeii, the Tower of London tour, etc. Years ago, I used to just bring by normal University ID card with me, and places used to give me the discount with that, but in the last several years, more and more places have required the International Student ID card, so you better get it (you still may be able to use a normal College ID in way off places like Bulgaria, but I would just suggest getting the standard one (you will need another passport picture for student ID card too!)

Develop an Itinerary Then start discussing the MUST-visit places with your travel companions. This will be fun or stressful depending on the people you travel with. If nobody cares where you go, great - you will be flexible and that is great for your first time traveling. Usually people will want to go to a few places (like if your parents are Italian, then you probably want to go to Italy). This is good too because you will probably have a few places to stop and visit relatives. I strongly advise you to contact anyone that you even remotely know that lives in Europe well before you go and get invited to stay with them (at least it will be a free night stay and maybe even a free meal and laundry). I stayed in Geneve for free for 2 weeks with relatives that I had never met before. Great luck for me in that very expensive city. I used that city as a home base and visited many other cities nearby. After you select your MUST-SEE cities, then plan on a ball park itinerary that you may like to hit and keep an open mind, because chances are that when you are actually in Europe, you may run across some hot chicks/guys or some cool people that you enjoy and want to travel with for a little bit. Anyway, if you are looking at backpacking for 4 weeks or less, then be realistic about what you plan on seeing. You probably should not expect to see more than 10 cities. This is because you will want to hit the big cities and each big city takes a few days. If you have more time or this is not your first time, then you can see more because you will probably see smaller areas. Keep in mind things such as holidays when planning your itinerary. For example, Italian culture week takes place in the middle of April and all state-run museums and archeological sites are free during that week. Because so many people are clueless about an itinerary, I am modifying one that is listed as an example in the front of the Let’s Go Europe book. The following is a sample of what I would suggest that the AVERAGE first-time backpacker see in a 2 month period (if you have less time, then probably you will need to see less places). You can always see more, but you will be more stressed and rushing around. Bruges, Belgium Amsterdam, Holland Berlin, Germany A few cities along the Rhine river, Germany Romantic Road area, Germany Munich, Germany Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic Prague, Czech Republic Krakow Poland Budapest, Hungary Vienna, Austria Salzburg, Austria Lucerne, Switzerland Interlaken or Grimmelwald or Grindelwald Switzerland Venice, Italy

Rome, Italy Florence, Italy Provence region (Avignon, Aix-en-Provence or Nice) France Bracelona, Spain Madrid, Spain Paris London This is just a general list. As you read my documents you will see that there are plenty of great cities in Europe which I have not listed above. There is no way to see everything Europe has to offer on your first trip, so the goal is to get a flavor. If it is not your first trip, or if you prefer to spend more time and really get a feel for a location, then consider visiting one region. For example, maybe you will only see northern Europe, or the Mediterranean. I remember one trip that I took I only went to Eastern Europe. I started by flying into Vienna (very expensive city) and then spent 8 weeks in Eastern Europe paying almost nothing for lodging and food and beer. As for the above list, it is just a basic idea to get you started. You might look at it and say, I don’t care to see anything in Eastern Europe this trip, or maybe I don’t want to waste the time and/or money for the crossing to see London (the same concept goes for Greece and that is why I left it off of the above list). If you are into churches and museums, then your list will certainly include the cities with the most famous churches and museums. However, if you are only interested in partying, then you might cut Vienna and budget time in Greece, or more time in Amsterdam or maybe along the Spanish coast like on Ibiza. How your Budget is affected by the Itinerary that you select Generally, expect that western Europe (France/Switzerland) is quite expensive and will really tax your budget. A good ballpark figure should be realized depending on your budget ($40-$60US Dollars/day to include all expenses like lodging, food, transportation (subway/trams, reservations and supplements on trains) & attractions). When I say $40-$60 includes food, that means that I can usually eat out (at a restaurant, cafeteria, university or vender food) and very occasionally will involve a grocery store or cooking in the hostel. By making a budget, you can see how much you should be spending. When you are in Europe, you will try to keep to this budget, and if you realize that you are in fact spending more, then expect to run out of money! You will know if you are spending too much very easily if you exchange $200 for 4 days in a country and you run out of money in 2 or 3 days. I say this because I suggest seeing western Europe (or Scandinavia if you really, really want to) first because they are the most expensive. Generally, if this is your first trip, you will probably not go to the extreme parts of Europe (Scandinavia is the extreme north). Some guy asked me if $67 per day (after purchasing airline and Eurail tickets) would be sufficient. I told him the following:

There is no question in my mind - $67 is plenty. If you have that much cash, you can have a blast and go out drinking frequently, eat lunch and dinner out (never needing to cook food in a hostel) and also see many museums. Don't let anyone let you think otherwise. The most expensive cost you will incur is lodging. If you find yourself spending more than $67 per day, then you are probably spending too much on lodging (or you have a drinking/drug problem). During your trip, if you see that you are spending too much cash and you cannot comfortably reduce your spending, change your itinerary and spend more time in eastern Europe. You can live like a king on $67/day in eastern Europe. (I have done Western Europe on budgets of varying ranges ($25 - $60) on about 10 different backpacking trips. If you don’t have at least $30 per day, then you have no business being in Western Europe. Obviously I suggest even a higher budget to obtain full enjoyment. If you have to choose between going to Europe on a budget of $25 per day or not going, then I suggest that you either restrict your travels to mainly Eastern Europe or not go at all (or cut your time in half so you can double your budget). Keep in mind that there will always be some miscellaneous expenses. For example, some hostels offer free cold showers but charge if you want hot water. Some hostels have hot showers on a timer and they give you one free token, but you have to pay for extra tokens if your shower takes longer than the predetermined time limit. Some hostels rent you a locker or linens or towels (you should never need to rent a towel unless yours is lost/stolen). These types of expenses should always be kept in mind when you budget, especially if you have a very tight budget (less than 50 Euro per day). Eastern Europe (Prague, Budapest, Sophia (Bulgaria) are significantly cheaper, but be careful because the Eurail pass does not include some Eastern Europe countries (but the train/bus tickets aren’t too expensive). The South of Europe is nice. If you are traveling in the summer, then expect it to be hot! If you want to hit Greece (great to party during the summer) then expect to take the ferry (usually from Bari or Brindisi (Italy) to Patras (Greece)) and calculate that down time (it takes a long time to get from Italy to Greece (8 hours from Brindisi to Corfu) and is a little bit of a pain in getting on the ferry in Brindisi, but it is worth it if you have been thinking about it. Italy – Greece Ferry crossing Although the point of this document is not to get into detail on how to get to any one place (that is the purpose of my second document) getting from the Brindisi train station to the correct ferry is tricky. Be careful in Brindisi because the vultures will be out to trick you and confuse you. You may be told by locals that the ferry is not running, has been cancelled or that there is a strike - this is B.S and is an attempt to make you stay another day or night in Brindisi at the vultures’ accommodation. Many of the Brindisi locals also try to sell you a ticket with the ferry line they represent (your Eurrail ticket should give you free travel with only a small surcharge (6 Euro) for port taxes). You will probably be tired and hungry upon arrival in Brindisi which leads to vulnerability.

FYI – there are several ferry companies in Brindisi but Adriatica lines is not part of Eurail any more, and although Hellenic Meditteranean Lines is running – it does not have a regular schedule yet. Five Star Ferries and Med Links Lines do not stop in Corfu. Blue Star Ferries is the new line that accepts Eurail and runs daily (all year long). Get there a minimum of 1 hour ahead of departure so you will have enough time to get the boarding pass, pay your port tax (6 Euro) and be driven to the ferry by the company’s mini bus. To get from the train station in Brindisi to the ferry, avoid misleading arrows and signs that say (Eurail - Interail). Instead, you should walk straight down the main road (450 meters) towards the port where you will find the ferry embarkation offices. This is crucial because as you exit the train station in Brindisi, you will see advertisements for boat/ferry passes and most backpackers will go there (and many people think that others must know what to do and just follow the other backpackers, but the reality is that most backpackers have never done the Brindisi/Patras crossing). About a year ago one backpacker told me his experience in Brindisi involving American Express Travelers Cheque. Since he brought these things, he felt that it was worth his while to find an American Express agency to exchange money (no commission and a good rate). Well, right next door to the boat merchant, (near the train station) there is a big American Express sign. This guy gave the company $300 and took the drachmas they offered in exchange. Since the backpacker did not know what the exchange rate should have been, instead of getting around 390 for $1, he only got 305, losing about $70 in the exchange. In fact, this turned out to not be an AmEx agency at all, just a big sign that said AmEx and suggested it was an agency. Clearly this error could have been avoided, but this is an example of how you can get ripped off by being offguard coming off the train all tired and pressed for time. The really bad thing is that this guy even had read my advice about Brindisi and emailed me after he returned! Also, the ferries are rarely so full that they turn you away – even in middle of August (peak of the tourist season) there is still availability on the ferries. In general, when you travel by ferry (which is included in the Eurail pass for ferries between Italy and Greece, France and Ireland, on some lakes in Switzerland and from mainland Europe to Scandinavia) expect to sleep on the deck of the ship (although the ferry in Scandinavia provided cramped cabins). There are some inside seats, but even then, many backpackers do not sleep in the seats, but select to sleep on the floor near the seats. Don’t worry, you will not be the only one on the deck – there will be HUNDREDS of backpackers with you. For this, you will be happier with a sleeping bag than a sleepsheet. Many will sleep; many will party all night. Remember to buy some food at the port if you have time before getting on the ferry. Regarding the sleeping bag, if you can afford the space and weight that a sleeping bag takes up, then you may want to bring it. Sleeping bags do take up space and weight and if you will always have lodging reserved and will never camp and will never have to sleep on the deck of a ship or in a train station, then don’t bring a sleeping bag. I have always brought mine, but that is because I

rarely make lodging reservations. Be aware that most hostels do not permit you to place a sleeping bag in their mattresses, but rather, they require you to use sleep sheets. (by the way, hostels do not provide soap, shampoo or towels in case you were wondering). Sleep sheets are either sheets that the hostel provides, or that you provide (really it is just 2 sheets that are sewn together in the shape of a sleeping bag. To save weight, you can use silk sheets. I found a website where you can get them for about $30. http://www.jagbags.co.nz/products.htm However, if you use the Eurail for any ferries in Europe (perhaps with the exception of Scandinavia), you will sleep on the deck (floor) of the ship – and a sleeping bag is nice for that. In general, most first time backpackers probably should buy or make a sleep-sheet and bring that instead of a sleeping bag. In fact, if you have the time and are anal retentive, you can check all of the hostels websites that you plan on visiting because most hostels provide linens, but some do not. If you know ahead of time that every hostel that you will visit provides linens, then there is no need to even bring a sleep sheet. So as for creating an itinerary, make one but expect to change it as you travel. It is generally cheaper to fly into Amsterdam, Brussels, London, or Frankfurt, so why not start there. If you have to return to USA at the end of your vacation by returning to that same city, then you better plan on saving time at the end of your trip to do this (you do NOT want to try to get from Athens to Amsterdam in 36 hours). In general, you will probably fly into a city (let’s say Amsterdam) and also fly back home from that same city. This means that you will have to travel in such a way that you end up back at that same city. This really sucks if you fly into London, because you will have to cross the English channel twice. Anyway, just keep this in mind because you don’t want to have to rush to get back to your airport city. One way to avoid this problem is to buy an open-jaw ticket, which allows you to fly into one city and fly home from a different city. These tickets usually are more expensive than normal tickets. Another option is to buy a ticket to Europe (say Amsterdam) and back home from the same city (Amsterdam). Then also buy a second airline ticket (from Amsterdam to a distant city such as Athens) which will depart a few hours after you arrive in Amsterdam. That way you will not actually start your sightseeing until you get to Athens. Then you just work your way from Athens back to Amsterdam over the 4 or 6 weeks of your trip. That will allow you to not have to backtrack to make it back to catch your flight. Another option is to simply travel in a loop. For example, if you fly into Amsterdam, head south and west and see France, and Spain. Then head east and see Italy and surrounding areas, and head north and see Chech Republic and Poland and Hungary and then head back towards Amsterdam and see Germany on your way. Some people want to get an itinerary down – ok here is a sample one: Amsterdam, Brugge (Belgium), Paris, Geneva, Florence (Pisa – daytrip), Rome, Venice, Vienna, Prague, Berlin, Amsterdam. However, considerations should be made for weather (south is warmer) and you may decide to do the south first and

then all of the north – kind of in a zig zag fashion (my sample itinerary above kind of does a loop). Regardless, if you will have a lot of time (6 weeks or more), then consider including Greece and/or Ireland and/or Scandinavia. Otherwise, you probably should skip these areas for your first trip to Europe, since they take extra time (since boats are involved) and Scandinavia is expensive and kind of cold. The books will tell you all about the countries, but FYI – do not expect to fly to London and then travel all around the British rail lines on your Eurail – since you need a special Brit Rail pass to do that in British areas (except, the Ireland ferry is included in the Eurail pass) This explains why I did not see London until my 5th trip to Europe! In Britain, suburban and intercity rail tickets are expensive. Therefore, if you are planning on taking more than 2-3 rail trips, you should purchase a Rail Pass. Anyway, in order to get from Britain to “the continent” by train, you would need to buy a separate ticket. If you took the Eurostar through the Chunnel and into Paris, plan on it costing about $100 for a roundtrip ticket. The Eurostar leaves about every half-hour (with a few exceptions) to Paris Gare Du Nord station. If you're planning on doing this on a Friday/Sat/Sun you probably should buy the ticket beforehand, if possible. Other options are to fly. The following companies offer very cheap flights from European cities to other European cities: RyanAir (http://www.ryanair.com or EasyJet (http://www.easyjet.com) or Europe By air http://www.europebyair.com. www.buzzaway.com or www.buzz.co.uk or www.germanwings.com or www.flyaboo.com or www.duo.com and www.airlines.com When I say cheap, I mean cheap. Sometimes you can fly from London to Pisa for 30 Euro. Also Paris or Amsterdam to London for 30 Euro. Obviously, such cheap flights are either long in advance or last minute. For example, on www.skyeurope.com for June 2004 I saw the following one-way prices: Amsterdam – Bratislava: Barcelona – Bratislava: London – Bratislava: Warsaw – Bratislava: Rome – Budapest:

49 Euro 50-69 Euro 49-69 Euro 25 Euro 25-49 Euro

(See my section on Poland for other cheap flights into and out of Poland). There are also the following websites that help you search the best deal for your route: www.applefares.com and www.skyscanner.net and www.opodo.co.uk www.cheapflights.co.uk www.europebyair.com and www.openjet.com Travel warnings and Visa requirements I suggest visiting http://travel.state.gov/ prior to your departure to review any travel warnings. This is important for recent terrorist threats and such. This

is a website for Americans who travel outside of America (because certain threats might be directed towards Americans). Also visit http://travel.state.gov/foreignentryreqs.html to see which countries require visas from American visitors. There has been talk about the US restricting foreigners to having a 30-day visa, and several European countries have threatened to reciprocate if the USA imposes such a restriction. So, make sure that you know the current visa requirements (especially if you plan on being in a country longer than 30 days. If you want to find out what hostels are in a specific city, I suggest visiting http://www.budgettravel.com/hosteleu.htm and just scrolling down. Languages: If the only language that you speak is English – don’t worry, you will get by just fine in most places in Europe. I speak English, German and Dutch. I found that German was very helpful in Eastern European countries such as the Czech Republic, Poland, and Hungary. French is really only helpful in France, Southern Belgium Western Switzerland (like Geneva), and Morocco. In Italy, English will get you by, but the further south that you go, the less English will be spoken. If you know Spanish, some Spanish will help you understand the Italian – but there is enough English spoken that you will be able to get by. I suggest learning a few key phrases for each country that you will be visiting (learn them just prior to entering the country). The guidebooks usually give some examples, but “excuse me” and “thank you” is always useful. In general, you can usually request the location of the bathroom by asking for the W.C. or the toilet (sometimes pronounced toilet – ah). Expect that you may have to pay for toilet facilities and/or toilet paper. Sometimes you can go to a fancy hotel or a McDonald’s and use their bathrooms for free. Regarding languages, when you start getting towards the former Soviet Union, you will have trouble. I traveled with a guy that was fluent in Russian and the countries like Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania all used to be part of the Soviet Union, but they hate Russia and when we tried to speak to them in Russian, some people refused to speak to us in Russian (even though they all were fluent in Russian). They wanted us to speak Lithuanian or Estonian! Anyway, Russian helped somewhat in these countries, as few people spoke English. Backpacks – you will have to shop around for what you need, but the books that I referenced above give some tips. Basically, an internal/interior frame is the way to go for the average college student that is backpacking. I noticed a lot of girls with interior frame backpacks that even had wheels and they could wheel them around like luggage when they got tired! I never had one with wheels, so I do not know whether they are great, but I do wonder whether they are as sturdy as the backpacks without wheels. Also, I have heard that they are heavier than most other backpacks, and I have heard people complain about the fact that since there are so many cobblestone streets in Europe, that the backpack on wheels just bounces all around and makes lots of noise.

Regardless, expect to spend $150-$300 for a good backpack. Maybe you can borrow someone’s and save money, but make sure that it fits you first! It should feel comfortable when you try it on in the store (and the salesperson should adjust the straps depending on your body size). Basically, buy the backpack and then start to fill it up. Remember that everything that you bring will be heavy at the end of the day. Even if you are only going to the beaches in Greece, still bring some long pants. If you like cargo pants (they zip off into shorts) that might be a good idea. Likewise, even if you only plan on being in the cooler north, bring some shorts. I suggest dark colors for pants/shorts since they may get dirty sitting on things and you may have to actually wear them for a few days in a row. As for tops, if you will be in the hot areas, light colors are better, but they don’t hide dirt too well. Some people are worried about looking like a tourist if they wear shorts. My advice is who cares? You will obviously be a tourist when you have a huge backpack on your back, and also as soon as you open your moth and speak. People often ask me about what type of backpack is best to buy – read the books and try some on, but I suggest getting one with an internal frame and a detachable daypack. I tend to like Eagle Creek, but there are plenty of good backpacks made by other companies. You will really be foolish if you don't get a day-pack. Many good quality backpacks are sold with a detachable day-pack get one of these. However, if you don't want to (maybe because the detachable day-packs are smaller than normal small backpacks), you can get a normal large backpack and bring along a smaller backpack (like the kind that you used in school) and just place it inside of your large backpack, or strap it to the top or back of your big backpack. The bottom line is that you WILL need a daypack. Some people take the large bag type thing that only has one strap (messenger bag). I do not suggest this because they are too large and only have one strap. The whole point is to bring something small and comfortable. If you are worried about theft, when you are in a crowded place, just move your small backpack (daypack) off of your back and put it in front of you. Some people try and reduce their costs on a backpack and my comment is – DON’T. You do not want to have a cheapo backpack. Someone even told me that they bought a backpack without a waste strap. Because a waste strap is so crucial, I didn’t realize that any companies even sold them without waste straps. I just came across a huge sale at REI-OUTLET which is having big closeout and overstock sale. Lots of good deals, especially on the backpacks. I don’t know how long this will last, but here is the link http://www.rei.com/online/store/Search?storeId=8001&langId=1&REIInternalSearchLink=1&categoryRestrictionList=22000001&minimumDiscou nt=40&sortMethod=discount&stat=8599 Your backpack will be heavy and most people will get sore shoulders (where the straps of the backpack touch your shoulders/chest). Some people try to minimize this pain by wrapping their straps with cushioning. I have seen people use foam padding, towels, and even maxi-pads to cushion the straps. In

addition to the shoulder straps, you should also have a smaller strap that crosses your chest. I suggest using that strap for anytime that you plan on walking more than ½ a block. When you board a train, sometimes it is easier to walk through the narrow passageways if you take off your backpack and carry it like luggage. It is best to find out how sore you will be before you fly to Europe – that way you might be able to reduce your load. Some people have asked me whether they should buy a small backpack so that it will fit in the overhead compartment on the airplane so they can save time when they land in Europe by not having to pick up the backpack with the other passengers on the luggage machine. I think the advantages of a smaller backpack are not worth the disadvantages. If your backpack is larger (as will be 99% of backpackers in Europe) you will have to wait for your backpack to get off the plane. BIG DEAL. So you waste 30 more minutes. That is not worth leaving things at home that you need. So, I don't think it should even be a consideration to plan on buying a small backpack just so you can save 30 minutes when you arrive in Europe. If you are worried about people stealing it, don’t. Most big backpacks allow you to zip up the straps so they are not dangling. Some airports also allow you to wrap the backpack in cellophane plastic wrap so you can tell if anyone broke into it. I have never had anything stolen out of my backpack when I checked it as luggage. Just make sure to put on your little locks to deter thieves. Backpack security Some people ask me about the electronic alarms for the backpack – what a waste! If someone wants to get something from your bag, they will either take the whole bag, or cut the bag and get in. The same is true for the PACSAFE thing that is made of “indestructible” metal net – if a criminal wants to break through it, all s/he has to do is take a lighter to the little metal pieces that hold together the indestructible metal net. Besides, you will never see any other backpackers with this contraption. Therefore, the people who do use it will be sending a signal that there MUST be expensive stuff in that backpack. There, I just saved you about $50-60. My advice - Just put the little locks on the zippers as a deterrent, but if someone wants in badly enough, they will. I suggest using the combo locks, because while you can remember a combo, you might lose a key. Even if you don’t lose the key, it wastes time looking for the right key for each lock. Another option instead of locks is to use those plastic ties to lock your zippers together. These are pretty cheap and you can use your knife to open them when needed, but then again, so can a thief. But since many of the American Airports have recently instituted requirement that you do NOT LOCK YOUR BAGS, you should keep this in mind for the flight over to Europe. Use common sense about where you leave it (and what you leave in it). Music – you may want to bring an Ipod or MP3 player or else a CD player and some cd’s – they don’t really weight THAT much and can be very helpful for long train rides. This is personal preference. An MP3 player would probably be lighter weight since you wouldn’t have to bring any tapes (who uses tapes any

more?) or cd’s with you. If you are very people friendly, then you may find this a waste of space as you will be able to talk to many people on your travels and you can get great info (especially other backpackers that you run across). If you meet others on the trains, that is a great way to get multiple people able to get discounts for lodging (especially in the poorer countries). Long train rides are also a good idea for reading your guidebooks about the next city that you will be visiting. You should always have read about the city that you are visiting BEFORE you even arrive in that city, especially if you do not have lodging lined up. Get some waterproof spray such as Kiwi Camp Dry. I got this stuff at Wal-Mart for about 1/2 of the price that they charged for Scotch Guard or 3M. Anyway, the Kiwi stuff works great. Make sure to spray your backpack several times (especially the top) before you leave for Europe (spray it when it is empty). Also spray your shoes (boots if you bring them) and your jacket (I only bring a windbreaker). A windbreaker should be enough if you also bring a sweater (which can double as a pillow). Even putting on several coats of the spray, you will not use an entire can of spray. If you do, then realize that you probably put it on too thick. Negotiating prices – many things in Europe can be negotiated. Some things cannot. This is called haggling. In order to successfully haggle, you MUST be prepared to walk away if you do not get the price that you want to pay. Many times after you walk away, the salesman will chase after you and offer the product for the price that you wanted. In general, you can always negotiate the price of a product (such as a necktie) that you purchase from a street vendor (except for food), always negotiate the price when the price is not marked. You can usually negotiate the price for private lodging (when locals meet you at the train/bus station). Also, the further east and south that you go, the more negotiating will take place. In Turkey and Bulgaria for example, you will never pay full price.

Reducing the size of things in your backpack A good way to reduce the size that bulky clothing takes up is to place it into a zip-lock bag and squeeze out the air. The weight will not change, but a bulky sweater will take up less space. Take this concept a step further and you will see the value of compression straps (especially if you bring a sleeping bag). People wonder about Swiss Army knives – bring one. I used to say “don't worry about a little ole Swiss Army knife at the airport” but in light of the terrorist stuff on 9/11/01, please make sure that you place any knife in your backpack that you check (not carry-on) and if it can be taken apart, do that. If you are one of those people who MUST carry on the backpack, then you will have to leave the Swiss Army knife at home. I always brought mine because it was great to fix my backpack when it broke and it was a nice (beer and wine) bottle opener and scissors and can

opener. As for a weapon - not many people would be intimidated. Besides, weapons are not good ideas when you try to get into the Louvre or the Kremlin etc. I did pick up one of those cheapo switch blades that they sell in Berlin for 5 Euro and that is great to whip out when you have to spend the night in a train station and the dirtbags come around. Just use it to cut up an apple or something and the dirtbags will take notice and will leave you alone. Just remember to not show a switchblade (even if it is a crappy one that looks real but wouldn't really hurt someone) when a police officer is around - you could have problems. Camera – I have several and once made the mistake of bringing a big fancy Nikon (SLR) and it sucked because it was heavy and took up space. Just bring a small camera and get pictures developed back in the USA (save lots of $ and you can get them the same size prints in the USA so they fit in your photo albums). As for film through the x-ray machines at airports, I used to say don’t worry unless you had 800 or faster film. However, since September 11, Fuji Film has posted an announcement regarding the upgrading of X-Ray machines in airports, and as used in the US Postal Dept. Some of the machines will wipe your film as if it were exposed to daylight! For more info, visit http://fujifilm.com/JSP/fuji/epartners/Faq.jsp?id=239184&returnTo=Search&searc h=x%2Dray&searchMode=1#239184 and http://fujifilm.com/JSP/fuji/epartners/ServiceSupportDetail.jsp?returnTo=1&ID=50 9308 Do not put any film in your checked luggage. If you are considering between a fancy camera with several lenses and a point and shoot, here are my thoughts. I have bought SLRs and point and shoots and I determined that it is just better to bring a lightweight point and shoot. unless you are a photography student or something, you really don't need the fancy lenses. Just buy a print or postcard - they will have the best lighting and least amount of people in the pictures. My only other camera advice is to try and make sure that at least half of your pictures have you in them. A photo album of a bunch of old buildings begins to all look the same when you get back home. Also, don’t carry your camera around your neck. It actually makes it easier to steal, and announces that you are a tourist. Rather, keep it in your daypack. My goal when traveling is to look like a local college student rather than a tourist, but I don’t try extremely hard. Obviously if you have your huge backpack on, you will clearly be a tourist, but after you drop your big backpack off at the hostel, then you will only walk around all day with just your daypack. This is when you do your sightseeing and this is when you can blend in as a college student. Some people have asked me about bringing a digital camera, and I now believe that a digital camera is the best option because it avoids the hassles associated with film. If you already have a digital camera, fine, but realize that there are some considerations that must come into play that don’t come up if you have a camera that takes film. With a digital camera, you have to use memory cards. This means that you must upload your pictures after you take a certain amount, so that you do not deplete all of your camera’s memory. You can either upload the pictures on the internet at a hostel or a internet café, or you can bring

a laptop computer. For a plethora of reasons, I do not suggest bringing a laptop computer with you when you backpack. Another option is to upload your digital pictures and save them onto a cd (any photo store will be able to put your images onto a cd). Don’t plan on any internet cafes having cd burners. Then you can either carry the cd with you or mail it back home. FYI - my favorite pictures are of me in front of landmarks such as St. Basels in Red Square, the Berlin Wall, the Eiffel Tower, the Notre Dame, the leaning tower of Pisa, the Parthenon, Lucern's lion, Prague’s St. Charles Bridge at dusk, in front of the Mermaid outside Copenhagen, having a beer in the Hofbrauhaus in Munich, in front of those huge doors of that church in Florence (also on the Ponte Vecchio in Florence), the Coliseum in Rome. Also the small (non landmarks) are great such as cobblestone streets in Brugge. Before you have a stranger take your picture, tell them exactly where to stand and make sure that you stand only far enough away from the camera so that you are visible from the waist up. No point in seeing your shoes, and besides, your face will be too small if your feet are visible. I also suggest asking two different people to take your picture. That way, if one screws it up (and cuts out the top of the monument) then you can still have a chance at a good picture. If you have a digital camera, then you can simply review the picture and if it was crappy, then you can have another one taken. You will be a fool if you return home and only have pictures of landmarks. This is because you should be in the pictures. Also, there is usually no way that your pictures will be as good as a postcard. Consider buying a few postcards in each city and using your film/digital images mainly for taking pictures with you in them. Don’t forget to get pictures of the things that you do (such as traveling on trains, eating vendor food in the street, playing cards in a hostel, and drinking beer at a pub). DRUGSIf you do drugs (smoke pot/take ecstasy) you will surely run across plenty of others who will share your likes (especially in Amsterdam & Ibiza), but a word of caution, many countries take a very hard stance on drugs and have very harsh penalties if you are caught with any drugs (such as after you leave Amsterdam -–you best smoke it all before you get on an international train.) People keep asking me how to smuggle it back to the states, and I am not going to help you there. Although I have heard of ways that people have done this, I don’t think it is worth the risk, so I will not bother explaining it. I suggest that if you are gonna use drugs, just do them as you come across them and not transport any of them with you. Some places will toss you in jail for a very long time even if you just have a small amount. Try to explain to your parents why you missed the fall semester because you were stuck in a Turkish jail. Traveling with another person who shares your intentions can be a very good way to see Europe. If 2 people both want to party – great. If 2 people both hate partying and want to see every church and museum in Europe – great. The point is, if one person is a party-animal and the other is a nun, you will have problems.

Backpack storage – Sometimes you will just stop in a town for a few hours (like Pisa) and you will not want to lug around your big backpack. Hell, you will not want to wear your big backpack ever if you didn’t have to! The best place to store the backpack is right at the train station. When you arrive at a town and you will only be there for a number of hours & then you will be leaving the town, just put your backpack in a locker at the train station for a few Euro. Generally these lockers are fairly safe and some places don’t offer lockers (or only offer small lockers) and you will have to give your backpack to an attendant and he will place it on some shelves behind him. I have NEVER had any problems with theft like this, but if you can select which locker you place your bag in, choose one that is close to the attendant (to deter someone breaking in). Also, make sure to know what time the luggage room closes (after it closes, you can not get your bag back until the next morning). A problem is that if there is a terrorist (bomb) threat, the lockers are the first things that are closed. If the security of your belongings is a concern, I suggest that you opt for leaving your bag with the attendant at the “left luggage” section (costs you about $1 more than a locker). If you will be staying in that town overnight, then as soon as you arrive, you should call the hostel and go there & dump off your bag and then see the town with just your day pack (with your Fodors or Let’s Go book, camera and a water bottle). Make sure that you know the name and address of the hostel that you ended up checking into so that you can return to it. (Make a note in your book to indicate which one you ended up at in case your first choice was booked when you arrived.) Some hostels provide you with a locked area that you can put your backpack into. Sometimes I just leave it on my bed, which is a good way to “claim” your bed. Generally, you will never leave anything important in your backpack, so even if it is stolen (and that would suck) you will always have your camera, guidebook, money and passport. Stuff to pack – read the books I suggested. I’d also like to suggest that you find a small cotton towel that is not too thick and use this as your bath towel. See, you will usually use the towel just before you leave the hostel and you may have to let it dry on the outside/top of your backpack – so the smaller and thinner that it is, the more likely that it will dry! The key is THIN, almost to the point of being threadbare. Although I personally use the cheap cotton towel, if you have money to blow, give some consideration to buying one of those “Viscose towels” such as the brand name Pack Towel - it weighs only 2 oz. (57 g.), Viscose is a form of rayon that absorbs ten times its weight in water, then wrings 98% dry with a few twists. These towels don't smell bad as a cotton towel would. I also found a similar MicroFiber towel that is 39 x 19 inches and weighs 6 oz and costs $20 and I saw it at Magellan’s for sale http://www.qksrv.net/click-711188-1481194 . I have found a similar towel for about half the price at Mountain Equipment Co-Op (MEC Mountain Dry Towel Large 50cmx99cm) it weighs 120 grams. http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=1340 05&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=493099&bmUID=1041118044436[/url] There is a company in Australia called Menda http://www.menda.com.au/

, which sells the Menda Travel Towel. The fabric in the towel is made from 40% combed cotton, 60% modal. Modal is made from beechwood, a 100% natural plant-based fiber. Expect to pay about 22 Euro for the towel before shipping. I have even met a girl who told me that she brought a sarong with her and used that as her towel. That is a great way to save space and weight if you are a girl and can use a sarong to dry yourself. Doing Laundry In general, when people say they wash clothes in a hostel, many people mean HAND WASH clothes in a sink and hang to dry. Some hostels have laundry facilities, but sometimes you may just have to go to a laundromat in the town that you are in. Yes, it sucks to waste time on your vacation doing laundry. I have done a little of everything and suggest the following: In general, plan on visiting a laundry machine once a week and doing everything at that time. If you are getting close to the end of the week and you realize that you will be on a train for 20 hours, or you are in a small town with no laundry facilities, then hand wash a few things (socks, undies, and maybe a shirt). The main thing to keep in mind is when you handwash stuff, it never gets as clean as machine washing, and it takes time to dry (even if you wring it out very well). If you are in an area where it is hot and not humid, your stuff will dry quickly. Otherwise, be realistic and plan on washing when you have a few days at one location or else you will have wet clothes (to repack in your backpack). Learn from my experience – do not hand wash a week’s worth of stuff all at one time. You will not have enough line to hang it all up on. Also, even if you bring enough line and can even find enough things to tie it to in the hostel room, the sheer weight of the wet clothes may cause some damage (I caused a 300 pound chest of drawers to nearly come crashing down on my travel partner). Bring some detergent (such as single use sachets of Woolight (these are hard to find, so look at luggage stores or a Rand MCNally store in a mall). Another good option is Dr Bronner's, which is super-concentrated (this is the better option if you plan on doing a lot of hand washing). A third option is called Campsuds. Then get some rope or clothesline and clothespins and that way you can handwash some stuff if needed in a crunch (probably more times that you plan on!).. A rubber sink stopper (or rubber jar opener) is helpful too and very cheap at the hardware store (although I've also just stuffed a sock in the drain which works okay). Bottom line about laundry - unless you are on a crazy budget (like $25 or $30 per day) you should be able to machine wash your clothes once a week. Shaving gear & Electric Razor I once traveled with a friend who brought an electric razor. He was happy that he had it because he never shaved with a non-electric. But it seemed like a waste of space and weight to me when I compared it to my non-electric razor. However, he pointed out that if you have an electric razor, then you can save space/weight because you will not need any shaving cream. So, it is up to you

(but you will need to mess with electricity adapters, and an electric razor always weighs the same, whereas shaving cream gets lighter and lighter as you use it). Some ladies have asked how to shave when traveling. I never imagined that anything would change. I say bring your normal shaving gear and act like you do at home. If you wax at home, do it right before your trip. If you shave everyday at home, then wear your flip flops in the shower and shave every day in Europe. MONEYBELTS - Some people wonder if they should get a money belt. Read the books and decide for yourself, but here is what I think –get one! You need a place to hide your passport and cash and credit cards and you want them on you at all times except when you are taking a shower! (When you take a shower you can stuff it into a large ziplock and bring it into the shower stall with you). Anyway, they sell normal-looking belts that you can unzip and actually stuff things into the belt itself - but they are too small for a passport. I suggest either a baglike pouch that goes around your waste (under your pants) or the kind that you wear around your neck - the one under the pants is safer! Regardless, you do not ever want to leave anything like a passport in your day pack - things get lost and stolen. I have heard that American passports go for up to $10,000 on the black market, so there is a big incentive for people to steal your passport. As for the money belt, it might be easy to remember how you should treat it by the following: You are thousands of miles from home. If your money belt is lost or stolen, what do you do? You will need to get to an embassy and spend a while (sometimes a few days) having them issue an emergency replacement passport. Okay that is a pain, right? Well consider this. The embassy might only be located in one city in the whole country. What happens if you are not in that city? Then you will need your Eurail pass to travel to that city by train. Oops, your Eurail pass was in your moneybelt. That means that when the conductor checks on you, you will not have a Eurail pass or a passport. Big trouble, plus fine (oops, your money was in that moneybelt too!). So, now you should see why it is worth the inconvenience of always keeping your moneybelt on your body or within eyesight. Also, you might see a good reason to stash a small amount of cash deep within your backpack so you have some spare emergency cash. But remember that you will leave that backpack alone at the hostel during the day, so don't leave more than about 50 Euro in the backpack. I personally own both a moneybelt and a neck pouch and I have used one or both. The neck pouch is kind of obvious, so if you ever get mugged, you might be able to get away with just handing over the neck pouch and your assailant might not think that you also have a moneybelt. Visit the following website so you can see what the neck pouch and moneybelt look like. You probably can find them a little cheaper than the website I am listing, but it is a good idea to see the images. http://www.travelgearnow.com/department/Accessories/Money_Belts_And_Neck _Wallets/12001070025.html

Shoes – make sure that you bring shoes that you have already broken in. I don’t care how cute your brand new boots are, if they are not broken in, don’t bring them. I suggest teevas or berks and brown or black casual/dress shoes for guys (that way you can get in the discos/clubs) Although I like comfortable crosstrainers, they are heavy and require you to bring more pairs of socks, and they will not grant you access to clubs. People keep asking me if they can bring brand new $150 Nike Air max or Shox for clubs, and the answer is NO. Unless you are going to a very select few clubs that allow trainers/tennis shoes (such as some on Ibiza or other rave/techno clubs) you will be laughed at when you try to get in the club with anything that resembles sneakers. Even if you bring teevas or berks, still bring some socks because your feet will be cold sometimes. The key is that shoes are heavy and the less weight that you bring, your back will thank you. Personally, I like crosstrainers and I wear them all the time, so I have usually brought those and lightweight dressy leather shoes (for clubs). If you normally wear crosstrainers, then go ahead and bring them, because the weight will not be a factor (because they will be on your feet all of the time and not in your backpack- and when you go to a club, you will not have your backpack anyway, so you will never have to carry your heavy crosstrainers (they will usually be on your feet)). Oh yea, bring some real cheap lightweight flipflops/shower shoes for the showers so you don’t get athlete’s foot in the hostels (when you leave the hostel, the shower shoes will be wet and you can place them in a zip-lock bag or on the outside of your backpack). I opted for shower shoes and my friend just wore his teevas in the shower (and then they were wet for the rest of the day and squeaked as he walked). HOW TO GET LODGING – there are many ways to do this. First off, read the books! They suggest the best hostels and pensions and the ball park prices. Expect the prices to be a little higher than what the books say. In general, in Eastern Europe you should really consider staying in private homes rather than in hostels. If you will be going to Europe in June-August, this will be the peak tourist season and you may want to call ahead to some of the hostels in the bigger cities (such as Paris, London, Rome) and for some reason Venice is always packed. Otherwise, generally, as soon as your train pulls in, the first thing that you want to do is get your lodging set up. During the summer months, if you travel solo, it is easier to just show up (or just call a hostel when you arrive in that city) than if you are traveling with others. This is because many people are not gutsy enough to just show up and they opt to make hostel reservations. So, many of the doubles will already be reserved. If you are traveling with another person and you two did not make a reservation, there might be available doubles left or you may still be able to both stay at the same hostel by choosing to stay in a dorm (with several other people). Some people reserve their hostels for every day of their trip. Some make no reservations and wing it. I tend to have usually traveled with few if any hostel reservations, but both have risks. If you reserve all of your hostels, you are

locked into an itinerary that is very hard, if not impossible, to modify. On the other hand, if you do not make reservations, it is possible that you will not have lodging in a particular city. In general, if you arrive early in the day/morning, you should be able to find some place to sleep. It may not be your first choice (as it may be full) but then again, some hostels get booked months or a year in advance. All of the best hostels listed on the internet and in the books will probably be full if you just show up without a reservation during the summer, so if you MUST stay at a particular hostel, make a reservation as far in advance as possible . Also, there is nothing to stop you from calling a few days ahead of time to reserve a room with a credit card. If you do that, make absolutely certain that you understand how to use your calling card to call one European city/country from a different European country. This is the best way to reserve a hostel and keep your schedule flexible (just call a few days ahead). If you are planning on making reservations, there are two things that you should keep in mind: 1) bring a copy of your confirmed reservation with you to speed up check-in; and 2) assume that it might take over a week for a hostel to respond to an email from you (especially in Eastern Europe). Both of these are important because many hostels employ young people who party and tend to lose things and/or simply don’t care. If you need lodging in a few days and you are not getting a reply to your email, try the fax and phone. Always received either a fax or email confirmation or else assume that you do not have a hostel reservation. If you are trying to keep to a very strict budget and you are traveling solo, then expect to sleep in dorms, since this is always the cheapest way to sleep. If you are traveling with one or more people, then consider a double, triple or quad room since these rooms sometimes cost only slightly more than a dorm and provide you with much more privacy and security. When you get off the train, either exchange money so you can make a call with coins in a pay phone, buy a local calling card, or use your calling card from home (this will be quicker but more expensive) and call the hostel of your choice and ask if they have any vacancies and how much it costs. If they do, you are a happy camper! My cell phone does not work in Europe, but some people have a fancy type of plan that does work in Europe. If this is what you have, then bring your cell phone and you will be a KING! You may want to look into calling Voicestream at 1-877-666-4246. This company lets you rent a phone for $50 / month and you only pay for calls you make and just mail the phone back to the company upon your return home. I also hear that VoiceStream has another deal: for $20/month. Just ask for the “International Rate Package,” buy a GSM phone and then you can use it anywhere in Western Europe for $1/minute incoming or outgoing. I have also heard things about a company called IntouchUSA (call 703-620-0879 for information) (NO monthly charge, it is an unlocked SIM card, works in any country just about, even US. Flat rates - regardless of country, and prepaid - $1.60 outgoing, $.80 incoming. And you can email or call them and have your account “reloaded” as needed. You don’t have to get a cell phone (I never brought mine to Europe and I did just fine), it just makes things easier.

Being able to make calls to hostels with a cell phone would mean that you would not have to hunt for a payphone that works, you would not have to find coins or a vender selling calling cards, and would not have to dial a U.S. operator to use your American calling card. Another option that is cheaper (but usually more time-consuming) is to buy a pre-paid phone card when you arrive in a country and use it in a local pay phone. FYI – some people think that they can bring their pre-paid calling card that they bought at Wal-Mart and use that in Europe. Well, that won’t work. The reason is that most of those cards require the user to dial a 1-800 number. Well, you cannot dial any 1-800 numbers from Europe. (This is also important because if you lose your credit cards/bank card and the only contact number that you have written into your Let’s Go is the 1-800 number that was on the back of the credit card, then you will be SOL. Some credit cards will tell you a number to call collect from Europe – get that info. All of the big companies like AT&T, Sprint, and MCI have global calling cards and you even get a little wallet-sized slip of paper that has the number that you have to dial (each country has a different number) in order to be able to use your calling card. One other option is to use a pre-paid calling card that you buy in a country in Europe. Each country has its own cards and usually only work when you are in that country, but these can often provide you with good rates to call home. Ask the venders how many minutes the card provides. Be careful because some European cards are rip-offs to call USA and are only good deals for local calls. Calling home – you have to follow the above directions and either use a pay phone or a cell phone which you bring with you that is compatible with the European Union’s plan. Some places have little offices set aside for you to make phone calls. Usually the best places to call home are from post offices. Many post offices have phones set up in ways that are strange for Americans. For instance, it is not uncommon for you to approach the attendant and give her the telephone number that you wish to dial, and she dials it for you from behind the counter when she has a free line, and when she gets your party on the line, then you pick up the phone and you get to talk. Sometimes you have to wait a while for the operator to get a free line. When you are finished making your call, you see the attendant and pay her for the call. Generally, you can expect to pay about $1 - $1.50 per minute to call the USA from Europe. In fact, if you do it this way, you can ask the operator at the post office for a “call back” number to give to “Mom,” so she can call back. The rates are much lower to call from USA to Europe than vice versa. If you buy a phone card while you are in Europe, keep in mind that it can be a pain in the butt if you are just in town for a day and moving on. Sometimes you can use the phone card anywhere in the country. Other times you have to be in that particular city (or else it accesses a long distance number). This sucks if you have to buy the card in increments (say $5, or $10) and if you leave the country the next day then you get screwed (especially if no one is home when you call!) I suggest planning on calling home once per week at the most. Many

hostels have internet connections for cheap or even free (or visit an internet café). Send some mass emails when you can and that will cut down even further on phone calls. If you get a calling card from home, you can arrange for a global calling plan and that may reduce the per minute charge. When I was in Russia, it cost $20 per minute to call the U.S.A., but if you bought one of the Russian calling cards (for a block of time, such as 20 minutes), then the price dropped to $5/minute. That was the most expensive call I have encountered in Europe. Calling the hostel Anyway, when you call to get your lodging, make sure to get directions (even though they are in the book, get them from the hostel too). Expect that you may be speaking with someone on the phone that does not know English too well. If your first lodging choice is full (or no answer) then just go down the list in the books. Also, in some places (like Budapest and Greece) there will be many college age guys and girls that are paid by the hostels to find customers and they will hook you on the train and then walk you from the station to the hostel. Do not worry, generally these are pretty safe (they will usually have brochures to prove that they are legitimate). The more people that you have traveling with you will usually give you an advantage in getting better rates. Arriving at the hostel It is easiest to get into crowded hostels if you call or show up first thing in the morning as opposed to the late afternoon. Learn from my mistakes - once I arrived in Nice, France at 11 at night & nothing had any room available. I was walking to sleep on the beach and I met some American ladies and after a quick chat, one let me sleep on the floor in her hotel for free! The key is to be super friendly to everyone and doors may open. Don’t get me wrong – I know that I was very lucky. But generally, yes, either call ahead (phone numbers of hostels are listed in all of the travel books like Let's GO) or arrive early and call as soon as your train comes in. Even if you make a reservation, you will not really feel comfortable until you actually drop off your bag in the room, so take care of lodging first when you arrive in a town. The further south and east that you go, you will find that pensions and hostels compete for your business and have people soliciting for your business on the trains and at the stations. When you get south and east, the pensions and cheap hotels (2 stars) will be higher priced than hostels, but they are usually worth the extra money (which will still probably be within your budget). FYI - I stayed in this one hostel; in Budapest that was recommended in Let's Go and it was a dump - it had bed lice and they even had a storage locker for your backpacks, but it was a joke because there were about 50 keys that floated around and many people had stuff stolen from their bags. Just remember to not leave anything in your big backpack that you would miss if stolen. I had a friend who actually left his backpack on a train! I still don’t know how he didn’t

notice that his back felt lighter, but he had to buy a new backpack and all new stuff to fill it back up & that cost him a lot of travel time and money! Use common sense and if you travel with another person, always make sure each other has their stuff. Getting annoyed with your travel mate. Well, this WILL happen! Unless they know some languages that will be helpful to you, then in the worst case scenario, you two can part ways. This happens more than you imagine. You spend so much time together, some things that you do will piss off your companions, so realize this and prepare for the possibility (don’t let one person carry all of the passports or money). If you travel for 4 or 6 weeks, the chances of your travel companion getting on your nerves is much higher than if your vacation was only a 2-week visit. SUBWAY / UNDERGROUND / METRO – you will know how to use the subway after your trip to Europe. Hopefully you already know how to do this if you have been to DC or New York. Otherwise, the travel books have some sample metro maps in them and you should seek guidance from someone you know that can help you learn how to read a subway map before you leave the USA. I learned in Paris (which is a fairly complicated subway). My opinion is that the subways in Russia are the most challenging because they are all written in Cyrillic! Anyway, it is crucial that you (or at least someone that you travel with) know(s) how to navigate on a subway. As I implied above, if you get on someone’s nerves and they ditch you, you better be able to get around by yourself! Make sure to buy tickets for your Metro (or bus) before you get on the train (or bus). Although it is possible to cheat and ride for free (which I have done many, many times) the cost for a ticket really is not that much and should not be a problem. Besides, if you are caught riding public transportation without a ticket (or with a ticket but without validating it), you will get fined (at one time in Budapest the fine was 1200 times the price of the ticket), or worse - in Warsaw I was taken to jail because although I bought a ticket for the tram (and I even punched it properly), apparently the sign (which was written only in Polish) required a separate ticket for my backpack (which I did not buy). I eventually bribed my way out of jail for $25, but some friends of mine spent the night in jail. Keep in mind that many cities in Poland require you to buy a separate ticket for your luggage. If you would like to see what a subway map looks like, look in your travel book, or look at some of the following sites: http://www.metropla.net/eu/euromet.htm (great site - lists many cities) http://www.odyssey.on.ca/~europrail/smaps.htm (lists many cities) Paris - http://www.paris.org/Metro/gifs/metro01.map.jpg London - http://www.londontransport.co.uk/images/jp_big.jpg Berlin - http://www.berlin-tourism.de/english/anreise/index.html Athens - http://www.athensguide.com/metromap.html Budapest - http://www.talkingcities.co.uk/budapest_pages/sights_metro.htm

Moscow - http://www.moscow-guide.ru/Transport/mmap.gif (in script as opposed to Cyrillic) Traveling by bus – Here is a great link http://www.busstation.net/ That link claims to be able to give you info (links to other websites) for any bus, coach, tram or trolley in the world. LISTEN TO FELLOW TRAVELERS – this will be the key to having a great time! For instance, when I was in Poland, Aerosmith was there on tour and tickets went for $12. Some guy at the hostel told me about it! Also, you will get great tips about which hostels were good and which ones sucked. Also, that is the best place to get numbers of hostels or pensions that are not listed in your guidebook! Also, you might be able to secure lodging in your next city if you meet people on the train that are more prepared than you. Also, if you meet someone that lives in a country in Europe, maybe during your trip (or even on a future trip) you can stay with them for free! As a general rule, you will find out that Australians and New Zealanders (Kiwis) are all over the place in Europe and are usually into partying. Generally they travel for very long periods of time (1 year) and may be on a tour of the world – not just Europe. Also, for whatever reason, I have rarely come across backpackers who are black. However, one black college guy who is athletic (played college football) told me that he was treated like a rock star when he backpacked around Europe. FOOD – generally there are plenty of meat dishes for cheap. Also, bread and cheese sandwiches can save money if you like that. I am a carnivore, but if you are a vegetarian, you will have a harder time in some locations (as well if you are a picky eater), but plenty of people before you have done it. I suggest that before you leave home try to get some people who speak other languages to help you write down "I am a vegetarian-I don't eat meat or fish" in as many languages as you can. This will help you when you are in Europe in case there is a language problem. If you will go further east than Germany, German will help, but also try to get it in the local language (such as Polish or Hungarian). I have translated the above quote in several languages to get you started: - German is: “Ich bin Vegetarier - Ich esse weder Fleisch noch Fisch.“ - Dutch is: “Ik ben vegetariër - ik eet geen vlees of vis.” - French is: “Je suis végétarien. Je ne mange ni viande ni poisson." - Greek - eimai hortofagos, then troo kreas ee psari - Portuguese is: “Eu sou vegetariana. Não como carne nem peixe." - Italian is: “Sono vegetarian- Non mangio carne nè pesce.” - Spanish is: “Soy vegetariano. No como ni carne ni pescado.” - In Catalan (in Andorra, Catalonia, Valencia region and the Balearic Islands) is: “Sóc vegetarià, no menjo ni carn ni peix.” - Norwegian is: “Jeg er en vegetarianI ikke eter kjøtt eller fish” - Czech is: “Jsem vegetarian, nejim maso a ryby.

- Slovensko (Slovenia) is: “Sem vegeterijanec.Ne jem mesa, niti rib” - Russian is: "Ya vegeterianka. Ne yem ni myasa ni ryb." One website that might be of interest is http://www.happycow.net/europe/index.html and it lists vegetarian places all over Europe. Some people are concerned about where they can exercise while they are in Europe. This is asinine. The average backpacker will walk miles every day, which is much more than they usually walk at home. Plus they will be carrying a heavy backpack for some of that time. I do not believe that you should worry about exercising at all while you are in Europe. If you feel the need, then every day you could probably do pushups, dips, and pull-ups somewhere in the hostel. As for how food impacts weight, I believe that you should eat whatever you can afford to eat. It is so rare that you can taste the local foods, that it would be a shame to not try something because it might be high in fat. Given the long distances that you will be walking on a daily basis, you will be burning calories. Sometimes I have gained weight after a trip to Europe, but other times I have lost weight. It really depends on two things: 1) how much you normally exercise at home; and 2) how well you eat at home. There is no question that MOST people will be getting more exercise in Europe because they will be walking everywhere (this might not be true if you live in a large city and you already walk everywhere). Thus, since you will be getting more exercise, you can eat more calories and maintain the same weight. If your budget limits your food, then you will probably lose weight.

Drinking (not alcohol) I suggest buying a 1.5 liter bottle of soda at one of the first countries that you visit (Holland has some with real strong plastic). Then use that for the rest of your trip and keep it filled with water (from locations that are safe) and you will always have water for the train or towns. Drinking water (as opposed to soda) will save you tons of money since Coke is usually the same price (or more expensive) as beer and usually you will get VERY small quantities and no ice. Forget the “free refill” policy that we have in the USA! Even if you visit a Taco Bell in Europe (which has free refills in the USA) you will not get free refills. It should be obvious, but some people seem to never catch on. Buy food and water at non-touristy corner stores or markets (usually away from tourist sites, but usually near hostels). If you have to drink Coke, then pay 3-10 times less by purchasing it at a grocery store (even a convenience store). If you know that you will not like the taste of water everyday, then bring some light weight powder mix like Crystal Light with you and mix it in with the water (the packets are small enough that they aren’t heavy & don’t take up that much space). In general, one Crystal light packet yields 2 liters. Actually, you

can save even more space by repacking each Crystal Light packet into a separate zip-lock bag. It may be a good idea to bring a few granola or protein bars and there will come a time during your travels when you will be really happy that you packed them. Just make sure the next time that you pass a grocery store, that you buy a few more so that you always have an emergency supply of 2 or 3. Buy some Kraft Mac-n-cheese before you leave home and removed the cheese packets and bring just the cheese packets with you. It is a great way to add flavor to pasta without buying tomato sauce. Try to avoid McDonalds in Europe because there is better local food worth trying. FYI – yes some McDonalds’ do sell beer. Sometimes it will be cheaper to just spend $5 and eat at McDonalds if you are in a capital city and everything around you is expensive, but try to limit your meals at fast food joints. Taxis – Some people really have no clue about traveling and the following information is for the person who lives in a very small town. Taxis are always more expensive than public transportation. In general, Europe has excellent public transportation. It will usually take 5-15 minutes longer to purchase the required ticket and then use public transportation, than if you take a taxi, but it will always be cheaper than a taxi. The only time that I suggest using a taxi is if: 1) you are disabled; 2) you can split it with a few other backpackers who are all going to the same hostel; 3) if it is night time and public transportation is closed or running infrequently; or 4) you don’t have directions to a hostel and the person on the phone speaks a different language than you (and thus cannot give you decent directions). Notice that I did not say anything about being lazy or tired. You should have rested while on the train, so there should be no excuse to take a taxi just because you don’t want to walk 100 meters to reach the bus/metro/tram stop. When you take a taxi (it should only happen a few times (if at all) on your trip, then you need to know a few things. Never get inside the taxi until you have agreed on a price. Don’t even hand over your backpack unless you have agreed on a price. Sometimes the taxi driver will put your backpack in the trunk and sometimes he will expect you to put it inside the car. If there is room inside the taxi, I always try and keep my luggage with me (to reduce any option of the taxi driver holding your luggage hostage in exchange for a higher price). Many taxis have meters and many do not work. Also, at night, the price is usually more expensive. Even if the taxi has a meter, I always ask how much will it cost to drive me and my luggage to my destination. Sometimes the taxi driver will say that he has to go by whatever the meter says. Sometimes this is true, but he should have some idea as to what the price should be, so make him give you an estimate. If the final price is near that estimate - pay it. If he puts on the meter and it costs more than about 1-2 Euro higher than the estimate, refuse to pay more. If the driver refuses to give you an estimate, do not get in the taxi. I would be very weary of a taxi driver who did not give me an estimate. No matter what his excuse is about policy, I would be afraid that he doesn’t know where my

destination is. Expect that the meter will never start at zero - there is always a minimum charge. If the guy tries to rip you off, do not tip. If you are taking a taxi to a hostel/hotel, call ahead first and ask them what is the approximate price for a taxi from the train station to their lodging. This will give you an idea as to whether you are being ripped off. Sometimes taxi drivers will set the fare for 2 people even if you are the only person in the taxi, so look for the number 2 on the meter. Most of these precautions do not help if you have no clue how much the taxi should cost. If possible, ask at an information desk what the approximate taxi ride should cost before you even leave the train station. I always get out my money during the taxi ride (prior to reaching the destination). This is a good idea for a few reasons: 1) you never want to stand on the street holding money; 2) you should not let the driver see how much money you have. Do not assume that the taxi driver will have any change at all. Assume that the taxi driver will keep all of the money that you give him – so make sure you have small denominations. The only thing that you care about is not having that taxi driver hold your luggage hostage, so do not pay him until you have a hold of your luggage. If the taxi driver tries to rip you off after you have agreed on a price, you have to make a decision. If the taxi driver is in front of your destination, take your luggage inside with you and seek their assistance. If the taxi driver threatens to call the police, don’t be intimidated because unless you did not make yourself clear before you got into the taxi, then you did nothing wrong. However, if you are in the middle of nowhere and the taxi driver tries to rip you off, stall for time. If you can see that he is going to kick you out of the taxi if you refuse to pay, then make sure it is not in a desolate area. It is not worth getting hurt for a few Euro. If you can see that there is nothing that you can do to prevent getting ripped off, lie and tell the driver that you only have a so much money. This will only work if you have already taken your money out of your money belt and put it in your pocket. To make this more convincing, maybe keep an extra 10 Euro in your other pocket. Something that is helpful is to carry a dummy wallet. This is a wallet that has about 30 Euro in it. If you are ever in a situation where you have to give over all of your money, give them the dummy wallet and they might leave you alone. Don’t count on anyone believing that you only have 4 Euro with you, so I suggest 20 or 30 Euro in the dummy wallet. Also, that only works if the taxi driver doesn’t see you pulling out a money belt. You can always try and tell the taxi driver that your passport or Eurail pass are inside your backpack (which they will never be, but he doesn’t know) If you are fluent in the language of that country, make sure to only speak in that language. Sometimes taxi drivers will think twice about ripping off someone who has the ability to call the police and quickly explain the problem. In general, most taxi drivers are honest, but a few prey on tourists. For some reason most thieves believe that Japanese and Americans seem to be pretty stupid. Also, you will not find many taxis that use air-conditioning, even in very hot cities. One more thing, I always try and have a general idea as to which

direction my destination is (such as north, south etc.) and then when the taxi starts driving I make sure that he is not driving in circles to run up the meter. Sometimes cities have areas where taxis have to wait and the next taxi in line gets the next passenger. So, if you go looking around for the cheapest taxi, expect that they might tell you that they cannot talk to you. How to sightsee - I know, you must be wondering why do I have a section on this topic but believe me, my tips will help. After I have secured lodging and dropped my big backpack off at the hostel (or in a locker in the train station if I will not be spending the night), then I take my daypack and go see the city. Before I go out, I have already looked at the map and come up with a general idea of what I want to do. I plan on doing 2 or 3 things during the day (maybe visiting a famous church to look inside and see the architecture and art) and maybe a museum and then just wandering around the old section of town. It all depends on how long you spend in that city. If you will be there only one day and only one or two things interest you, then go see them and take the rest of the day as it comes. If you are in a city for 3 or 4 days then break the sites down so that you don’t kill yourself the first day. When visiting museums, always keep in mind the day of the week because some days museums might be free or discounted (your travel book should tell you when), so there is no point visiting a museum on your first day if it is free on your second day in that city. Likewise, take weather into consideration. If it is a clear day, plan on doing the outdoor stuff (such as walking around the streets). That way, if it rains on one of the days that you are in town, you can visit the museum and other indoor activities when it is raining. Planning your meals to mesh with your sightseeing. If you plan it right, you can eat at some cheap places that have good quality food. Your travel book should list several places to eat for each city. As you plan what you will do for the day, try and see if any of the recommended places to eat are near your destinations, and then you just work them in your plans. Trust me, the books have already researched the cheap/good places to eat, so you should take advantage of them. It is crazy to wait until you get hungry and then just eat at whatever place you happen to find first (although you will probably still have to do that fairly frequently). Although sometimes that is exactly what you will do, it should not be your daily routine. For example, if I was in Paris and I was planning on spending part of the day in Montmartre section of town (looking at the artists and visiting the Sacre Coeur), then I would look at my information and see that the restaurant called Chartier is located nearby. I would specifically plan on eating there when I got hungry (even if it meant that I would walk a few hundred meters past the tourist vendors). Likewise, if I was in Paris and across town, visiting the Louvre or the Tuileries in the 1st arrondissement, then I would see from my information that a good place to eat in that section of town is at Restaurant Lescure, and I would plan on that. Sometimes there are only a few places listed in your book or they are across town and out of the way. In those situations, you will have to just eat vendor food or food from a place that you happen to walk past. When you do

that, the rule of thumb is as follows. Look at the menu (most will be posted outside) and see if you can afford it. If you can afford to eat there, then look and see how many people are eating there. If it is fairly crowded, then that means that it is probably good food. If it is empty, then I would avoid that place and keep walking. When you successfully do the first two things listed above, then look at food that people have on their plates. Does it look yummy? Does it look filling enough or are the portions too small? Whenever possible I would avoid eating anything other than ice cream in the tourist parts of town. Anywhere that a person is standing on the street and tries to convince you to eat at their restaurant is probably a place to avoid because it is a place relying on tourists, who they will never see again and have no incentive to please with good food or service. Usually, if you walk a few blocks from the main tourist area, you will find places to eat that are frequented by the locals and the prices will usually be cheaper and the food will be better quality. This is the reason that most of the places to eat that are listed in the books are kind of hard to find – because they are on side streets, not on the main tourist square. Validating your Eurail pass – yes you will have to validate the pass the day that you first want to use it. This is fairly easy and usually involves going into a train station and having it validated for you. Therefore, you should plan on a little extra time before your first train. Your first day in Europe will usually involve flying into a city and spending at least the first night sleeping in that city. Therefore, you probably should not validate your pass until you are ready to leave that city. For example, if you fly into Paris’ Charles-de-Gaulle airport, you should simply take the RER train into the center of Paris and pay the 12 Euro cost for the one way trip (a taxi costs about 42 Euro). Some other tips – in Europe they call Diet Coke “Coke Light”; Expect that you will pay for each packet of ketchup or mayonnaise at most fast food restaurants in Europe; many restaurants place bread and salad on the table and only charge you if you eat any (some charge you even if you do not eat it – so if you know that you do not want to eat it, tell the waiter before you even order and then make sure you did not get charged for it); if you ask for water with your meal, expect to pay for either carbonated (with bubbles) or non carbonated bottled water (they tend to usually bring the carbonated crap by default); it is hard to receive, but you can try asking for tap water; when describing money, instead of using a period, you will often see a comma used (something that costs two and a half will be posted as 2,5); when using an elevator and you push the “2” you will go up one flight (the “ground floor” is what Europeans refer to as the 1st floor); eating while standing up is sometimes cheaper than eating the exact same thing while using the café’s chair (especially in France and Italy); when Europeans write out the number “one”, expect to see something that resembles an upside down “V” rather than a single vertical line; when ordering something

and you use your fingers to indicate “one” you should use your thumb (because some places interpret a single raised index finger as meaning “two.” Bring a ziplock with a couple of fabric softener sheets (like what you toss in the dryer) and if your backpack begins to smell, take one out and lay it inside. If you will be traveling in Eastern Europe (such as Romania) then consider traveling first class because it usually does not cost that much (especially if you are only traveling within the country locally). Assume that you might have to turn your passport over when you are on the trains (especially if you take a night train). You might also have to turn your passport over if you stay at a hotel and certain hostels. Don’t flip out, it is simply the way that things are sometimes done. Women travelers might get harassed by men in Europe (especially in Italy). PARTYING / SEX – if you are into partying and want to have fun, there are several places that you should keep an eye out for and plan on visiting (and avoiding if you are not into that lifestyle). First off – bring condoms from USA as the ones available in some locations are of questionable quality. I am not saying that you WILL have sex, but many college-aged students travel to Europe in the summer and it is fairly easy to hook up if you want to (especially if you are planning on it). Plenty of sex will happen in the hostels. I don't care how many people are in the room. USUALLY, people will have the courtesy of seeking out a private area, but many hostels also have "common areas." Let's just say that you may want to reconsider sitting on those couches! Sex in dorm-style hostel rooms is not the norm, but it is possible that you may encounter it once or twice on your trip. As for the Greek islands of Ios, or Corfu, sex on the beach is not just a drink! Also, as an example, depending on where you stay at the Pink Palace on Corfu (if it is real crowded, they let you stay in a nearby white motel down the beach). Well, that white motel has all of the rooms kind of connected by having some bricks near the ceiling that are open to the adjoining room (for air circulation). Well, if you don't pass out every night, then you will probably not even go to bed before 4 a.m. or so. Anyway, you can tell which people that did go to bed early, because the next day you will hear them talking about how they could hear people having sex all night long (you can hear people that are several rooms down from you do to this air ventilation feature). For some reason many girls seem to have no problem with unprotected sex. I am not sure why, maybe it is the whole vacation thing, but I suggest bringing good quality condoms from home, because you have no clue how old the supply is when available in different places in Europe. My travel partner took the cake when we stayed at the Pink Palace. He told me about one of the girls that he had sex with and how he had sex with her right on the stairs that are adjacent to the disco. Oh yea, I almost forgot – it is possible to have sex on the decks of the ferries (such as from Brindisi to Corfu/Patras).

FYI - One female traveler emailed me to complain about the above (and below) descriptions. She claimed that I was essentially explaining how guys can get away with treating women like dirt. I have no intention to offend women. Rather, my goal in being so descriptive is to paint a realistic picture of what can be expected from some of your fellow travelers. Please don’t think that Europe is filled with college kids hell-bent on hedonism, but that is what some travelers expect from such a trip. Simply put – you have been advised. Let me share some information with you. I have come across guys in college that were having a great time partying around Europe. They were playing a game where they kind of had a contest as to how many girls they could fool around with. They even had points for different things such as 1st base was 1 point, 2nd base was 2 points etc. They also had increasing points for scoring with girls that spoke English as a second language or did not know English at all. (double points if English was not her 1st language and triple points if she didn’t know English at all). Anyway, there are plenty of backpackers out there and some are definitely in Europe to have fun and that’s it. If this sounds fun to you, then make sure that you go to the Pink Palace on the Island of Corfu (Greece), anywhere on Ios (Greece) and YoHo (Youth Hostel) in Salzburg, Austria, and probably Ibiza and Interlaken (but they are a little more expensive). There are plenty of other places that have great potential, but these are the ones that have the strongest reputation (of which I can confirm) that attract a certain type of traveler.