Zagreb-in-your-pocket.pdf

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Zagreb Spring 2016

May TheSava Forts Be The River Withthat Youhave Rapids Discover the history reached generations of Šibenik’s fortresses Clubbing Zagreb History In Spades Movin’ & groovin’ all Ten must-see night long archeological sites What Springs In Spring? Blossoming concerts and festivals

N°83 - complimentary copy zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Foreword

Nightlife 4

A zesty editorial to unfold

Arrival & Getting Around

6

City Basics 9 The A-Z of Zagreb

Tales of the Sava Riverbank 10 From past to the present day 12

Restaurants 25 We give you the bread ‘n‘ butter of where to eat 31

Treat yourself or be treated

Coffee & Cakes

33

“How’s that sweet tooth?”

Zagreb Nightlife Pulse When in Zagreb, do as Zagrepčani

43

Shopping

52

Priceless places and buys

Hotels

59

The true meaning of “do not disturb”

Directory

61

Services you just may need

A pick ‘n‘ mix list to brighten your stay

Local Flavour

Sightseeing Discover what we’ve uncovered

SOS! Have no fear, ZIYP is here

Culture & Events

38

Let the music take you higher

35

List of Small Features The Foodie’s Guide Tram N° 13 The Altar of St. Rocco Affordable Art City Centre Shopping

Maps & Index Street Register Transport Map City Centre Map City Map

32  49   50  54 57 63   63 64-65    66

Dubrovnik and Neretva County Tourist Board www.visitdubrovnik.hr

Spring into action with loads of concerts, outdoor events, packed terraces and fun-filled parks Zagreb 4U, Photo by Sanjin Kaštelan (TZGZ Archives)

facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Spring 2016 3

Foreword Welcome to Zagreb at this beautiful time of year where not only does the flora and @InYourPocket fauna blossom, but the warmth in the city air turns up a notch with a large number of concerts, exhibitions and festivals up for grabs. In this issue, we have a feature on the Sava River and its riverbank, our Sightseeing category discovers who has the honor of firing the famous Grić cannonvine.co/inyourpocket from the Lotrščak Tower every day at noon, whilst our Nightlife category brings you the latest on what’s pulsating once the moon rises and the stars begin to shine. As always, you can find the perfect souvenir as a memento or gift in our Shopping special. So, without instagram.com/inyourpocket further a due, spring into action!

Stay up-to-date facebook.com/??City??InYourPocket Publisher Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb ISSN 1333-2732

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Company Office & Accounts facebook.com/??City??InYourPocket Višnja Arambašić Zagreb In Your Pocket, Draškovićeva 66, Zagreb, Croatia Tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70, fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 [email protected], www.inyourpocket.com Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o. Printed by RadinWhere’s Print, Sveta Nedelja, published 4 times per year the party?

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facebook.com/??City??InYourPocket Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić, Jonathan Bousfield, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedić, Nikola Badovinac Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac Assistant Editor All Blanka Valićlatest news the Community Manager Eli Gajinov Designfacebook.com/??City??InYourPocket Lovro Boljat Photography Zagreb In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated Cover © Višnja Arambašić Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević Support Sales Blanka Valić, Elireviews Gajinov, Kristina Štimac Read more online: [email protected]

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4 Zagreb In Your Pocket

In Your Pocket, the world‘s leading publisher of locally-produced city guides since 1992, recently launched a brand new smartphone app: In Your Pocket City Essentials. Featuring only hand-picked venues and sights alongside essential travel information, these city guides have been carefully crafted by our local editors and include only the places they are happy to recommend. The app - available on both iOS and Android - is free, and works offline. Go to iyp.me/ app on your smartphone to download it. To keep up with all that’s new at In Your Pocket, follow us on Facebook (facebook. com/inyourpocket) or Twitter (twitter. com/inyourpocket). zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Arrival & Getting Around By plane Zagreb International Airport is located 17km out of town. Its small size makes the airport easily to get around; both domestic and international arrival and departure areas are located on the ground floor. Changing currency: directly outside international arrivals, there is a Zagrebačka banka office complete with a currency exchange (Open 08:00 21:00) and ATM. In the departures hall there is an Information Centre (tel. 060 32 03 20), which is open 24 hours. Toilets: The toilets in the centre of the airport across from the post office have a baby changing room, but do note that the ones on the top floor are less crowded. Getting to Town: Pleso prijevoz (www.plesoprijevoz.hr) runs a bus service from Zagreb International Airport to the Zagreb Bus Station (autobusni kolodvor), which leaves according to flight schedules from outside the international arrivals and costs 30kn/person. Those willing to part with a bit more cash can catch a taxi in front of the international arrivals. Due to the specific location of the Zagreb International Airport, taxi rates can differ significantly. Therefore, we recommend you pre-book online prior to your arrival. Simply log onto www.ekotaxi.hr and your taxi ride will be waiting for you with prices and comfort second to none. If you wish to go solo and ride on your own, then the airport has over 10 local and international rent-a-car agencies to choose from. Zagreb International Airport (Međunarodna zračna luka Zagreb (MZLZ)) QRudolfa Fizira 1, tel. (+385-1) 456 22 22, www.zagrebairport.hr. The bus and train stations are not directly in close proximity to one another but are within a 10 minute easy walk or a 2-4 minute drive by car.

By bus The ground floor of the Zagreb Bus Station (autobusni kolodvor) is home to a series of shops where anything from bed linen to a cup of coffee can be procured. The top floor is home to a post office (Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun) and chapel. Window N°3, the Information centre (Open 00:00 - 24:00), usually is staffed by someone with at least a minor command of English. Changing currency: ATM machines are located in the main hall next to the ticket office and outside the building along Avenija Marina Držića. There is a currency exchange (mjenjačnica, Open 06:15 - 21:30, Sun 07:00 - 21:30) in the ticketing hall. Left luggage: Abandon your bags in the Garderoba (Open 24hrs) located up the small staircase to the right of the main hall for 5kn/hr unless your bag weighs over 40kg in which case you’ll be paying 10kn/hr. Toilets are located up the small staircase to the left of the main hall and cost 3kn. Getting to Town: Should you want to walk the 20 minutes into town, when your back is to the station entrance the centre is to your left and behind you. For proponents of public transportation a tram is your 6 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Arrival & Getting Around best bet - saunter across the street and pick up tram N°6 towards Črnomerec to get to the main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. Taxis are plentiful, but will cost about 50kn to get to the centre. Getting around Town: Zagreb is well connected with buses which are linked to all major cities in Croatia. In addition, local lines run regularly between Zagreb County and its surrounding area. Ticket prices in one direction within a radius of 50 kilometres from the countries capital range from 26-77kn. Main Bus Station (Autobusni kolodvor) QE‑4, Avenija M. Držića bb, tel. (+385-) 060 31 33 33, [email protected], www.akz.hr.

can see quite a lot in little time. If you would like to tour around the surrounding area by bike, prices depend on the distance and vary from 10-35kn. And for all you pet lovers, bring your very best friend along but do know that you must have a mandatory veterinary booklet, small dogs are free of charge if kept in your lap or in a basket: Larger00dogs must wear a muzzle and are charged at 50% of the stand5 ard price for tickets.

Zagreb’s train station (željeznički kolodvor) is not very userfriendly, but sees more traffic than other points of entry into the city. Changing currency: When exiting the tracks walk through the main hall to find an ATM machine in the left corner. A currency exchange is located in the international ticketing area as is another ATM. The Information office (Tel. 060 33 34 44. Open 06:00 - 22:00) is located between the main hall and domestic ticketing area (to your right as you exit the tracks). Across from the Information window is a nifty tourist information touch screen - nifty, that is, if it ever worked. The left luggage facilities (Garderoba) are available 24 hours and are to the left of the main hall as you exit the tracks. Each piece of luggage costs 15 - 25kn/ per day. Getting to Town: Walk out the main entrance and survey your surroundings - this is the centre. To get to the main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića, take tram N°6 towards Črnomerec or tram N°13 heading towards Žitnjak. Taxis queue in front of the main hall and a ride into town will usually go along the most scenic of routes and will cost around 30kn. Getting around Town: Railroads are connected with almost all major cities in Croatia, train rides within and around the Zagreb area are faster and less expensive than other means of transport. There are also seasonal discounts and organised day trips where guests

Tourist Information Tourist Information Centre Free info phone number 0800 53 53. Also at the Zagreb Airport, next to the international arrivals area, at the Main Bus Station, at the Main Train Station and Lotršćak Tower. QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 11, tel. (+385-) 0800 53 53/(+385-1) 481 40 51, [email protected], www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr. Open 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. May - October Open 08:30 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. Zagreb County Tourist Board QC‑3, Preradovićeva 42, tel. (+385-1) 487 36 65, info@ tzzz.hr, www.tzzz.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. zagreb.inyourpocket.com

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Main Train Station (Glavni kolodvor) 5 QC‑4, Trg kralja Tomislava 12, tel. (+385-) 060 33 34 44, www.hzpp.hr.

Public transport

By train

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The Sljeme bus line The Sljeme line numbered 140 takes off from Mihaljevac Station and goes to the Tomislav’s dom Station, six times a day throughout the week, and every hour on weekends between 06:20 - 21:50.Qwww.zet.hr/userdocsimages/ voznired/140.pdf.

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Trams & Buses Getting around town is made all the much easier via the city’s Tram and Bus Systems, both of which can take you from A to Z. Tramwise, the city has 15 tram lines that run from 04:00 - 24:00; the night trams (4 lines) run from 24:00 - 04:00. In terms of buses, a list of departure times can be found at all bus stops marked by the blue signs with a bus picture. The biggest bus stop is just south of C-4, Glavni kolodvor through the Importanne Mall passage. There are 133 daily bus lines and 4 nightlines which link Zagreb, Sesvete, Velika Gorica and Zaprešić. The largest and most known tram and bus stations are positioned at Črnomerec, Dubec, Glavni kolodvor, and Savski most. Tickets cost 10kn for daily transport and 15kn for night rides (00:00 - 04:00), each is valid for 90 minutes, while daily tickets are 30kn. Tickets are available from the driver on buses, at kiosks or ZET stores. Children under six ride free. Please validate your ticket once you board: an unvalidated ticket is as good as no ticket at all, and getting caught without one is an embarrassing and costly00experience, with inspectors operating on a random schedule. For detailed schedules and route plans of ZET buses 5 and trams, simply visit www.zet.hr/default.aspx?id=290Qtel. (+385-) 0800 20 00 60/(+385-) 060 10 00 01, javnost@ 5 zet.hr, www.zet.hr.

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Biking 5 Why not swap that four-wheeler for a two-wheeler? In what is becoming somewhat of a common trend, more and more locals have thought wisely and have begun to choose the ecological route to town. Even though bike routes haven’t fully been mapped, roads are marked for cyclists with either red paint or are separated from the main road by yellow and white lines. Markings are very visible and clear to both bike riders and car drivers. If you would like to rent a bike (daily rental will cost 100kn), visit any of

facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

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Spring 2016 7

Arrival & Getting Around

+385 1 1414

City Basics the following www.zagrebbybike.com, www.nextbike. hr, www.bike.com.hr. For those seeking a recreational ride, then Maksimir, Bundek and Jarun are the ideal locations. True cycling enthusiasts who wish to be challenged should know that the city surroundings are filled with alternative bicycle routes that range in various levels of degree as well as different types of surface. For all other information and maps, visit the Zagreb Tourist Association and www.pedala.hr, www.mojbicikl.hr.

ww w.e ko ta xi. hr

NEUTRAL

100% Co2 neutral

pet friendly - order specially equiped car on hour before going to the desired destination

baby friendly - order a car one hour before going to the desired destination

Disabled travellers

Parking

Electricity

Street parking/SMS Parking There are three parking zones in Zagreb, indicated by signs on the side of the street: zone 1(red) is 6kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 2 hours, zone 2 (yellow) is 3kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 3 hours and zone 3 (green) is 1.5kn/h. Purchase your ticket at the ticket machine box which is beside the parking sign and make sure you display it on your dashboard, or use your mobile to text message your registration number (no gaps) to the number shown (including the international code if you’re using a foreign mobile (+385) 700101 (zone 1), 700102 (zone 2), 700103 (zone 3). Your payment is confirmed when you receive a return text message from the appropriate authorities. As a timely service, you’ll receive a text message reminding you to top up your parking ticket limit before it expires or to move your car. In case you don’t pay for your parking spot or over-run your allotted time, you’ll be left a ticket valid for 24 hours from the moment the beady-eyed inspector spotted your naughtiness. The 24-hour ticket costs 100, 60 or 20kn respectively according to the zone, and can be paid in any post office.

The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

Eko taxi QVodovodna 20a, tel. (+385-1) 14 14/(+385-) 099 456 04 55, [email protected], www.ekotaxi.hr. T­6 Radio taksi Zagreb QD‑6, Božidara Magovca 55, tel. (+385-) 060 80 08 00/ (+385-1) 17 17, [email protected], www.radiotaksi-zagreb.hr. Taxi Cammeo Qtel. (+385-1) 12 12/(+385-) 060 71 00, www.taxicammeo.hr.

8 Zagreb In Your Pocket

You ‘had to go’ forty-five minutes ago...public toilets or WCs (pronounced ‘vay-say’) are few, as one in the Cesarčeva Street near the main city square, which is free of charge and wheelchair-accessible. Your best bet is to find and use one inside the shopping malls and bigger stores or take a seat at a café, order yourself a beverage and then hustle through the appropriate door - gospoda or muški for men, dame or ženski for women.

Rent-a-car offices are located at airports and within the city’s large hotels (e.g., Sheraton, Panorama, Westin,...) or within their immediate vicinity. Prices per day for an economy or compact car class ranges from 250 to 550 kn. In order to rent a four wheeled vehicle, you need to have a credit card and be 18 years old (by law). If a problem occurs on the road, first call your rent-a-car contact number, then the HAK roadside assistance service at (+ 385-1) 1987.

Taxis smartphone app

Toilets

As Croatia entered the EU on July 1 2013, there are no longer custom limits between member states or tax return. For other non-member states we recommend you to follow info at www.porezna-uprava.hr.

Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take shape and some improvements can be seen, but there is still a loooong way to go. At the moment, all car parks have parking spots for disabled, most hotels have at least one room adapted for their needs, and shopping centres have suitable access with facilitated toilets, as do new buildings. In saying that, once you head outdoors one can expect problems on the streets, footpaths and access to most buildings. If you’re planning to visit, we suggest you inquire about your destination in relation to these matters and the majority will endeavour to organise and make your arrival as accessible as possible.

Car rental co2

Customs

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Water Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.

Money There are plenty of exchange offices around Zagreb, as well as an abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day. Many restaurants, bars and cafés accept credit cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you.

Tipping Generally, Croatian people are not overly concerned about tipping, but seeing how you’re a visitor to the country and all, you can practice some small-time diplomacy and throw a bit of goodwill to your server. Croatian people typically round their bill up to the nearest whole number when they want to tip, but leaving 10-15% for the staff’s efforts seems like a classy thing for a visitor to do, doesn’t it?

Roads When behind the wheel drivers must always have their driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them. Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alcohol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in urban areas is 50 km/ph unless otherwise marked, 80 km/ph on secondary roads and 130 km/ph on highways. As they say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer. facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Visas All citizens of states that need visas to enter other EU member states need a visa to enter Croatia also. Therefore, make sure to visit the Croatian consulate/embassy in your country of origin, before visiting Croatia. In addition, if you are flying to Dubrovnik and wish to visit other cities throughout Croatia, we recommend you obtain a visa for multiple entries because of the border crossing through Bosnia and Herzegovina. If you cross the border without the aforementioned visa, you will not be able to enter Croatia.

When things go wrong Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Zagreb significantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide Emergency Number 112 which then transfers you to police, ER or the fire department. Depending on the city district, in case you were involved in an accident or were arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In that case, contact your embassy. The main building for ER is located in Heinzelova Street 88 (K-3) where everything necessary will be done or you will be taken to the nearest hospital if need. In case of an accident call HAK road help 24/7 (+385-1) 1987.

National Holidays January 1 New Year’s Day January 6 Epiphany March 27 Easter March 28 Easter Monday May 1 International Workers’ Day May 26 Corpus Christi June 22 Anti-Fascist Resistance Day June 25 Statehood Day August 5 Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day August 15 Feast of the Assumption October 8 Independence Day November 1 All Saints’ Day December 25 Christmas December 26 Saint Stephen’s Day Spring 2016 9

Tales of the Sava Riverbank

Tales of the Sava Riverbank down in the early evening hours and pedal the iron bikes for a lamp will begin to glow, oh so cool! If you love horses, then you definitely need to visit the racetrack hippodrome which is located on the right bank of the Sava before the Most Slobode (Bridge of Freedom). A kids corner is perfectly placed next to the Boćarski dom with a large playground filled with slides, see saws, trampolines and more. Fancy a putt! Fans of golf can take a swing at the well-kept golf courses at the Golf & Country Club Zagreb (www. gcczagreb.hr) located near the Sava River. Fishing fans won’t be disappointed because the waters of the Sava River are risen with many fishing spots reachable by car. The riverbed is rocky with deposits of sand and gravel. One secret hotspot is perfect for špineraši (Spin Fishermen), where the Eastern district Heating plant was reconstructed with a stone dam over which rapids are created. Fish varieties include bleak, chub, dace, nose carp, barbel, bream, carp, pike, catfish and perch. Thanks to the diversity of fish species, fishing is possible throughout the year. For any additional information about fishing and licenses, visit the Sports Fishing Association Piškor or contact them via mail or phone (www.srdpiskor-zg.hr).

The Virgin - Photo by Lea Bogović

Many of the world’s great cities have a river running through them, from the River Thames in London to the Yarra River in faraway Melbourne. Zagreb too has its own Sava River, a symbol of the city that has over the years shared its ups and downs with Zagrebians. As opposed to many other rivers, the Sava River is not located centrally, but rather on the outskirts of the city. It is one of the three longest rivers in Croatia running a length of 944km, whilst the width of the river spans more than 100 meters in parts. FYI, the Sava River along Zagreb is neither navigable nor drinkable, mostly because of industry and waste water treatment; yet despite this, it’s common to see some fishermen hoping for a catch along the riverbank. Turning back the clock, the first public beach was opened in 1926 by the then mayor Vjekoslav Heinzel. The water was crystal clear back then, drinkable in fact, and in addition to swimming, the beach was a place where one would stroll, play cards, sing, mingle, socialise, play games... The area known as ‘Babinjak’ was primarily a sunbathing area where many of Zagreb’s ladies would catch a tan. The swimming area had about 900 cabins, with one end including the so-called ‘Gospodarić’s baths’ where wealthy citizens unconcerned with admission prices would seek leisure and refreshments. Did someone say ticket price? Yes, indeed, one had to pay to bathe in parts! To the right there was a public beach with two wooden pools in the river itself. At the time, ‘The Sava Riviera’ stretched all the way to present-day Lake Jarun and the Sava Beach also held an annual‘beauty pageant’. Things turned for the worse in the 1960’s when a huge flood engulfed one third of Zagreb in 1964. The flood destroyed many of the beach structures and with contamination detected, bathing in the river was prohibited and so the beach was only used for sunbathing.To make matters worse, a large number of cars began to invade the city at the time and the Sava River served as a ‘car wash’, it even 10 Zagreb In Your Pocket

became fashionable to wash your car from top to bottom alongside the river. How eco-friendly is that? In this day and age, you’ll be happy to know that swimming and car washing are strongly prohibited but in juxtaposition, there is an abundance of ‘sports and recreational activities’linked to the Sava River embankment and Lakes Jarun and Bundek. By walking the river embankment you can spot the socalled ‘Kockica’ building that was built in the early 1960’s, a thorough example of socialist architecture. It was built according to a project created by the great Croatian architect Ivan Vitić. Also, the ‘Croatian Radio and Television’ building isn’t hard to miss. The ‘Alley of Sculptures’ is the largest open-air gallery in Zagreb with 11 sculptures of Croatian sculptors to choose for that perfect selfie. Also, the Sava embankment has a view of the ‘greenbridge’ or Savski Most (Sava Bridge) which Zagrebians know as the ‘Hendrix’ bridge because of the graffiti dedicated to the rock legend which has been written on it for years. Despite the number of times authorities have repainted the bridge, graffiti artists always manage to respray the sign in its rightful place. In addition to the aforementioned bridge, Zagreb’s Sava bridges are a set of road, rail and pedestrian bridges that connect the left and right banks of the Sava River. The Sava River embankment also offers many opportunities for sports activities where one can walk, jog solo or join an organised running group. Eager beavers who love to cycle can ride all the way to Sveta Nedelja along a route that is 16km long (route details can be found at www.svetanedelja.hr ). There’s fun for everyone along the left bank where there are several landscaped grounds for tennis, football, and basketball. And on the embankment itself near the suburb of Savica, one can find 2 iron bikes and we dare you to head zagreb.inyourpocket.com

On the right bank of the Sava River after the Most Slobode (Bridge of Freedom), there is the exquisite Lake Bundek and park where one can enjoy various sports activities (cycling, inline skating, roller blading, walking and jogging). Barbecues and small wooden cafes are about! Whilst on the left bank of the Sava and before the Savski Most there is the Sports and Recreational Centre Jarun. At Lake Jarun visitors can row, sail, cycle, roller-blade, jog and do much more. The Sports and Recreation Centre Mladost is just before Jarun and a top destination all year round with both indoor and outdoor pool facilities. If you’re feeling peckish and fancy a meal, there are several eateries along the Sava River and its embankment. For those wanting pizza and pasta, there is Stara Sava (Savska Street 208), or Pizzeria Helena Jarun (Županići Street 1). For something a bit meatier or off the BBQ, meaning meat rolls, burgers and kebabs, definitely visit NK Sava (Gredice 157). Feel like some Italian cuisine, then visit the Restaurant Pizzeria Oliva (Jarunska 5), or visit the restaurant Balon located near Boćarski dom (Prisavlje 2). Once dinner is done, coffee and dessert is calling and you can choose from the numerous cafes in and around Park Bundek, Lake Jarun and Boćarski dom. As for Nightlife on the river Sava, the once popular clubs on rafts ‘Papilon’ and ‘Sidro’ are in poor condition and not in function. But, there is a retreat and that is in the newly renovated ‘Brazil Boat’on the River and its open from Wednesdays to Saturdays, more information can be found on their Facebook page. For those craving something purely heavier to alternative in terms of music, there are lots of gigs and live performances to exhibitions at Club Močvara (Trnjanski nasip bb). Event details can be tracked down at: www.mochvara.hr or Pogon Jedinstvo - Zagreb’s Centre for Independent Culture and Youth (Trnjanski nasip bb ), www.upogoni.org/wp/. facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Finally, see one fun filled part of Zagreb at the city’s largest flea market named ‘Hrelić’ which takes place every Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday. The quickest way to get there is via bus number 295 which runs daily from Zapruđe Station, the timetable can be seen at www.zet.hr. All in all, the Sava River still gives Zagrebians and its visitors so much to do and see, so take the time to visit the lifeline of the city. Have a picnic, or go for a walk, either way, it’s a nice way to see an integral part of the past and present!

Zagreb 1978., washing cars on river Sava - Photo by Pavao Cajzek

Jarun Lake - Photo by Višnja Arambašić Sound Art Inkubator 2013. - Photo by Sara B. Moritz Močvara Gallery Archives

Spring 2016 11

Culture & Events

Culture & Events Rock & Pop Concerts 15.04 Friday Gustafi - Maneštra This cult Istrian band is touring in support of their eleventh studio album spice fully named ‘Maneštra’, or in the English language ‘Minestrone’. From classics to latest hits such as ‘Hiti se na mene’ and ‘Za ljubav se ne moli’, a night of eclectic blues, Tex-Mex and folk can be expected at the Tvornica Kulture venue, just like a true minestrone mix.QE‑3, Tvornica Kulture, Šubićeva 2, www. tvornicakulture.com. Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 50 - 70kn. 27.04 Wednesday & 28.04 Thursday Eric Sardinas and Big Motor This US guitarist of Cuban descent returns to Zagreb once again. Sardinas is known for his ambidextrous playing (artistry of playing with both hands) but also for the series of materials that he uses to combine electric blues, country and rock.QI‑4, Hard Place, Ulica hrvatske bratske zajed‑ nice 4, www.hardplace.hr. Tickets 90 - 130kn.

The Drops - Concert on April 25th at Teatar &TD, Muzički centar Archives

Classical Music Concert 23.04 Saturday Lisinski on Saturday - Ivo Pogorelić: Cycle within a Cycle Dubbed as a genius, eccentric, and uncanny musician, which probably explains why he is praised and glorified by musicians and critics alike. Pogorelić returns to his home turf and is set to bedazzle the audience at Lisinski again with his emotive and heart-warming interpretations of Stravinsky, Brahms, Schumann, Liszt and others.QI‑3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, www.lisinski.hr. Concert starts at 19:30. 160 - 240kn.

Opera, Operetta & Ballet 16.04 Saturday Georg Friedrich Händel - Agrippina Händel’s first opera masterpiece in three acts is based on internal royal family schemes as led by the Roman Empress Agrippina. Despite initial praise, Händel’s opera remained somewhat forgotten until the 20th century when his repertoire was restored and returned to glory. The Croatian production of Agrippina was produced by the Music Academy in Zagreb.QB‑3, Croatian National Theatre, Trg maršala Tita 15, www.hnk.hr. Starts at 19:30. Performances also on 20th and 22nd April. 13.05 Friday Lisinski Arioso - Dmitri Hvorostovsky If there are seven wonders of world opera, then Hvorostovsky might well be one of them. The magnificent Russian baritone known for his technical virtuosity and vocal softness is set to grace the Lisinski stage. The repertoire 12 Zagreb In Your Pocket

will include works from Mussorgsky, Tchaikovsky, Rachmaninoff, Borodin, Rossini and Verdi. Konstantin Orbeliani will conduct proceedings along with guest soprano Asmik Grigorian and the Kaunas City Symphony Orchestra.QI‑3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, www.lisinski.hr. Concert starts at 19:30. Tickets 260 320kn.

05.05 Thursday - 07.05 Saturday Silente Young Dubrovnik pop rock group Silente caught the attention of both the Croatian media and public with their first hit single ‘Terca na tišinu’ which topped national charts and won awards in 2013/2014. Silente was nominated for many national music awards.QSax!, Palmotićeva 22, www.sax-zg.hr. Tickets 50 - 70kn.

20.05 Friday Kurt Weill and Bertolt Brecht - The Threepenny Opera Originally, ‘The Threepenny Opera’ was an early example of a musical comedy and in this new production, which will be conducted by Ivan Josip Škender and directed by the French playwright Pascal Rambert, is in fact a satire of the traditional opera with songs that have become popular standards, especially ‘The Ballad of Mack the Knife’ and ‘Pirate Jenny’.QB‑3, Croatian National Theatre, Trg maršala Tita 15, www.hnk.hr.

06.05 Friday Calexico Three years have passed since this American based TexMex, indie rock band last visited our capital. Joey Burns and John Convertino still lead Calexico which is touring in support of their latest album ‘Edge of the Sun’ and which happens to be their best commercially sold album to date, making them amongst the 30 best-selling artists around the world.QE‑3, Tvornica Kulture, Šubićeva 2, www. tvornicakulture.com. Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 140 - 170kn.

02.07 Saturday Bruno Bjelinski and Giorgio Madia Peter Pan Once upon a time in the land of Never Land lived Peter Pan and Tinker Bell… and so the classic fairy tale goes. Now a new and reinvigorated version is set to premiere which is based on Croatia’s Bruno Bjelinski’s famous 1966 rendition which premiered at the Croatian National Theatre that same year. And 50 years on, his work turns a new leaf with Italian choreographer Giorgio Madia putting his stamp on this enchanting story.QB‑3, Croatian National Theatre, Trg maršala Tita 15, www.hnk.hr.

08.05 Sunday Enrique Iglesias - Sex and Love Latino legend Enrique is set to spruce up Arena Zagreb this coming May with his new world tour. Chart topping hits such as ‘Bailando’, ‘Turn up the night’, ‘I like it’ and ‘Hero’ are just some of the classics you can hear. This particular event will be extra special as Enrique will be celebrating his 40th birthday that day. Light the candles, pop on some party hats and let the night begin…QH‑5, Arena Zagreb, Ulica Vice Vukova 8, www.outbox.hr. Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 219 - 759kn.

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07.06 Tuesday Zakk Wylde To coincide with the 20th anniversary of ‘Book of Shadows’, Wylde has recently released a Part 2 version of the album and will tour the old continent; Wylde is known for his amazing finger tapping on the electric guitar and came to fame when he began playing with Ozzy Osbourne in 1987. He is the founder of the band ‘Black Label Society’ and one of the most highly respected rock guitarists of this era.QE‑3, Tvornica Kulture, Šubićeva 2, www. tvornicakulture.com. Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 150 - 210kn. 08.07 Friday Mac DeMarco Organisers of the ‘SuperUho festival’ announce the return of the popular musician Mac DeMarco. It has been almost three years since DeMarco’s Zagreb premier which was made memorable for his stage humour. This indie rock artist with his casual and unburdened attitude can work up a crowd and pop some great tunes at the same time; all amidst a few cigarettes in between.QI‑3, Large Yard be‑ hind Močvara Club / Pogon Jedinstvo, Trnjanski nasip bb, www.mochvara.hr. Concert starts at 21:30. Tickets 80 - 120kn.

Dance 11.04 Monday - 29.04 Friday Platforma HR Join the mix of choreographers, dance artists and groups that unite to present their experiences, ideas and individual dance approaches through shows, workshops and lectures. Creativity is the key and this really is the meet and greet of the regional dance scene.QPogon Jedinstvo, Trnjanski nasip bb; Tala Dance Centre, Božidara Magov‑ ca 50; Flower Sqare, Trg Petra Preradovića, www.tala.hr.

Boris Bućan, 29th Split Summer Festival, HNK Split 1983., Screen print - MSU Archives

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Culture & Events 15.04 Friday The LADO Ensemble and KOLO Ensemble Full-night dance concert LADO, the Croatian Folk Dance Ensemble, was founded in 1949 as a professional national institution responsible for keeping the folk tradition alive. It has a repertoire of over 100 choreographed pieces, several hundred vocal and instrumental numbers, and over 1000 costumes representing the folk tradition across Croatia. All material is researched by experts who delve deep into the past but also consider that the folk tradition is created by the people, is alive and free to express itself. LADO really is a national treasure, and if you should get the chance to see them, you won’t be disappointed. This time LADO will be joined on stage by the national folk dance ensemble KOLO from Serbia.QB‑3, Croatian National Theatre, Trg maršala Tita 15, www.lado.hr. 26.05 Thursday - 04.06 Saturday Dance Week Festival The Zagreb Dance Centre is home to organising committee for this festival, dedicated to all lovers of dance, regardless of preferred genre. If we were to list all the styles of dance which will be on show, we would take up more than a few pages. Needless to say that there will almost definitely be something to suit all tastes. Included are also a number of symposia, with noted choreographers and dancers, examining the evolution of dance, its past, its future, and other themes within the art. Equally accessibly to aficionados and those who simply appreciate a good performance.QC‑2, Zagreb Dance Centre, Ilica 10, www. plesnicentar.info.

Exhibitions 11.12 2015 Friday - 23.04 2016 Saturday Aquae Iasae - Recent Discoveries Of Roman Remains In The Region Of Varaždinske Toplice In the Varaždin spa region, where there is a medicinal thermal water spring, Roman Aquae Iasae settlements from the 1st - 4th century can be found. Here a complex in various stages of construction was discovered, which consists of baths and temples that were built around the natural spring. This exhibition will present recent research results, from 2011 - 2013, of numerous inscriptions, sculptures, reliefs and Romans coins which were discovered.QC‑2, Archaeological Museum in Zagreb, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, www.amz.hr. 11.12 2015 Friday - 31.05 2016 Tuesday Magical Company - Beliefs In Supernatural Beings In The Podravina Area This exciting exhibition is divided according to supernatural beings, from elves and fairies, to witches and many other legendary characters. The exhibition will show the transformation of these supernatural characters through time, from traditional folk legends to our modern pop culture. The characters, photographed by award-winning photographer Iva Lulić, will be displayed in their natural fairytale forest environment.QB‑3, Ethnographic Mu‑ seum, Trg Mažuranića 14, www.emz.hr. 16.02 Tuesday - 08.05 Sunday Menci Clement Crnčić – Retrospective In marking the 150th anniversary since the birth of the artist, this retrospective will present Crnčić’s finest artworks which had deemed him as one of the best of his time. His forte was local landscape paintings, shades of winds and storms at sea, the Mediterranean, panoramas and more. Crnčić held a father-figure status in the scene as he was in many ways an inspiration to numerous future Croatian greats.QC‑1, Klovićevi Dvori Gallery, Jezuitski trg 4, www.gkd.hr. 10.03 Thursday - 14.08 Sunday Exhibition ‘45’ Get a true insight into the wounds and wonders of the Croatian people in 1945 and beyond, the year which finally ended WW2 but to this day still has its scars and unresolved disputes. The exhibition presents key historical, political, cultural and social events relating to Croatia taken from 69 national and international museums, and 22 private lenders. From literature to the Church, Bleiburg to Communism, fashion to cartoons, fine arts to architecture and more, little is left untold.QB‑1, Croatian History Mu‑ seum, Matoševa 9, www.hismus.hr.

Anna Calvi - Photo by Roger Deckker, Reflektor Festival Archives

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Culture & Events early Iron Age. These findings represent the remains of the Hallstatt culture and show the economic wealth and strength of this Iron Age population to be one of the richest Iron Age findings in the southeastern area.QC‑1, Zagreb City Museum, Opatička 20, www.mgz.hr.

The World Festival of Animated Film - AnimaFest Zagreb

Simply Red - Zagreb Calling Archives

11.03 Friday - 24.04 Sunday Bachrach & Krištofić As part of the local art scene, Sanja Bachrach and Mario Krištofić, are one of the most popular artist couples and are well-known for their rock and roll style, which comes to life in their designs and photography. This exhibition will display different works from their 35 year career.QB‑3, Arts and Crafts Museum, Trg maršala Tita 10, www. muo.hr. 15.03 Tuesday - 17.04 Sunday Dražen Trogrlić - An Intimate Universe 2000 – 2015 (Paintings, Sculptures, Drawings) At this exhibition, more than one hundred different works, including paintings, drawings, watercolors, prints and sculptures from the period 2000 - 2015 by the artist Dražen Trogrlić will be presented. Don’t miss out on seeing these great works by this modern artist.QC‑3, Modern Gallery, Andrije Hebranga 1, www.moderna-galerija.hr. 16.03 Wednesday - 15.05 Sunday Budinjak – the field of tumuli: archaeological investigations 1995 – 2014 Budinjak is located in the central area of the Žumberak Mountains at a height of 740 m above sea level, about 50 km west of Zagreb. Near the village a plateau is located where there is a large necropolis burial mound from the 16 Zagreb In Your Pocket

18.03 Friday - 17.04 Sunday Dalibor Martinis - DM 2016 Talks With DM 2077 This project was specifically designed for the Art Pavilion in which Dalibor Martinis questions and analyzes the world of media. Martinis is one of the most prominent contemporary Croatian artists and one of the pioneers of video art in Croatia. His work includes a variety of videos and performances in public spaces and has been displayed in many prominent art centers, such as the Kunsthaus in Zürich and the Stedelijk Museum in Amsterdam.QC‑3, Art Pavilion, Trg kralja Tomislava 22, www.umjetnicki-paviljon.hr. APRIL - JUNE Nives Kavurić Kurtović - Retrospective / Prospective A painter and academic who changed the view of Surrealism and other ‘isms’ in Croatian fine arts of the 20th and 21st century. Kurtović held her first exhibition in 1963 with paintings, ink and pen on white paper. Her oeuvre and status had changed with time where today’s audience can see her paintings in oil, or in large format with over 200 of her complex and most intriguing works presented.QC‑1, Klovićevi dvori Gallery, Jezuitski trg 4, www.gkd.hr. 14.04 Thursday - 29.05 Sunday Boris Bućan - Breakfast at the Printing Factory - A selection from the Collection of Posters Bućan is one of the doyens of Croatian Graphic Design who started his career in the late 60s. This chronological exhibition will present up to 80 posters in large format and many more dating from the early 70s to the late 90’s. An accompanying catalogue will be printed with samples of his works and paintings, as well as responses from acclaimed foreign experts, writers and critics.QJ‑4, Contemporary Art Mu‑ seum, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, www.msu.hr. 26.04 Tuesday - 29.05 Sunday Dalibor Jelavić - a Critical Retrospective 1976 - 2016 As part of the series entitled ‘Painting retrospectives of the Modern Gallery’, a selection of 120 of the best works from Jelavić’s oeuvre, which is made up of oils, drawings, prints, tapestries and enamels that were generated more than four decades ago, will be showcased. Jelavić is known for his expressive gestures and powerful colours making him one of the most impressive verticals of contemporary Croatian abstract art.QC‑3, Modern Gallery, Andrije Hebranga 1, www.moderna-galerija.hr.

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Culture & Events

Culture & Events 28.04 Thursday - 26.06 Sunday Ivo Dulčić’s Mediterranean – Marking the centenary of the artist’s birth A Dalmatian devotee to art most known for his religious and earthly themes; in celebration of 100 years since Dulčić’s birth, the exhibition focuses on one of the special aspects of his work - motifs of Mediterranean landscapes, regions, scenery and light, which too many is where he achieved the fullness of his artistic potential.QC‑3, Art Pavilion in Zagreb, Trg kralja Tomislava 22, www. umjetnicki-paviljon.hr. MAY - JULY Dolomiti – National Geographic Croatia and Georg Tappeiner Get a first glance of the Dolomites with their spectacular mountain ranges, romantic alpine meadows and deep blue lakes. In this travelling photo exhibition, renowned photographer Georg Tappeiner even captures meteors dispersing across the skyline above the mountains and lit like flames. In this bond between man and mountains, we are also reminded of the need to protect our planet.QC‑2, Archaeological Museum In Zagreb, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, www. amz.hr.

Alimov - The 6th Biennial of Illustration, Klovićevi dvori Archives Protein Dance - Kip Johnson and Sally Marie in LOL (Lots of Love) Photo by Nino Santos, Dance Week Festival Archives

18.05 Wednesday - 21.08 Sunday The Magnificent Vranyczanys - An Artistic, Historical and Political Framework of the Family Paying respect to this amazing noble family that has given so much to Croatia and its cities. The Vranyczanys included great philanthropists, patrons, donors and collectors, builders of representative structures, successful and progressive businessmen and drivers of social life in the cities in which they had lived (Stari Grad on Hvar, Senj, Rijeka, Karlovac, and Zagreb). Two years in the making, see historical documents, artefacts, artworks, archived works and more. A catalogue will highlight the indelible mark that the family has left with guided tours and concerts accompanying the exhibition!QB‑3, Arts and Crafts Mu‑ seum, Trg maršala Tita 10, www.muo.hr. JUNE - JULY The 6th Biennial of Illustration Illustration has become the summer sensation at the Klovićevi dvori Gallery with another trademark event. Foreign curators from Russia and Japan are set to partake with the focus of showing, explaining and documenting illustrations and animations, and an invited competition for Croatian authors based on the connection between book illustrations and animation will be had. See all the latest solutions and innovations in the field!QC‑1, Klovićevi Dvori Gallery, Jezuitski trg 4, www.gkd.hr.

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16.06 Thursday - 15.08 Monday The Wild West - A History of Wroclaw’s Avant-Garde Though behind the iron curtain, the city of Wroclaw in Poland flourished in the 1960s and 70s in terms of art. It was a true phenomenon and this exhibition presents works of art, documentaries, photos and footage - almost 500 works of visual arts, architecture, theatre, film and design, capturing everyday life in Wroclaw through the eyes of avant-garde artists that had given art and culture meaning in such times! A comprehensive catalogue will accompany the exhibition. QJ‑4, Contemporary Art Museum, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, www.msu.hr.

Special events 09.04 Saturday - 16.04 Saturday Festival of Tolerance - 10th Jewish Film Festival Zagreb It isn’t Hollywood or Bollywood but this popular film festival serves its purpose in promoting Jewish film, themes and culture. It’s steered by the festival’s president and double Oscar winner Mr Branko Lustig. Be sure to stay tuned for session details!QEuropa Cinema, Varšavska 3; Tuškanac Cinema, Tuškanac 1, www.festivaloftolerance.com. 18.04 Monday - 14.10 Friday Zagreb Time Machine Step back in time to the days of old Zagreb style, stroll to Zrinjevac Park and each Saturday you can take pleasure facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

in waltz, operettas, Italian canzone, jazz and more. From Tkalčićeva Street to the Cathedral, delve into some traditional foods through song and folklore. The Upper Town dazzles with costumed characters that have come back to life and giving visitors an insight into the way life... once was! The Tourist Information Centre has all the details as events vary throughout the morning and afternoon.Qwww. infozagreb.hr. 22.04 Friday - 24.04 Sunday Swing City Festival Lovers of dance look out as a multitude of dance workshops will be held by top local and international instructors. From beginners to experienced dancers, all are welcome to learn some classic dances including the Lindy Hop, Authentic Jazz, Charleston, Collegiate Shag, Blues and more. Its retro flair all the way and evening parties as well as dancing on the street of the city centre will add to the spice.QI‑4, Dance, Sport and Fitness Centre, Savska 120, www.swingcity. jumpandswing.hr. Full Pass 456 - 608kn. 23.04 Saturday - 02.10 Sunday The Changing of the Guard A Croatian regiment named ‘The Royal Cravats’ joined the French Army in the 17th century and in their honour, every weekend at midday you can see a two hour ceremony which begins with the ‘Preparation of the Guard and Arms Inspection’. March from St Marks Square to other city sites amongst some of the finest well dressed guards, drummers, flag-bearers and trumpeters.Qwww.kravatpukovnija.com. Spring 2016 19

Culture & Events

Culture & Events 26.05 Thursday - 05.06 Sunday The 20th Cest is d’Best Annual street festival packed with free concerts, circus attractions, dance, art shows plus much more. According to tradition, it is the audience that gets involved and participates.Qwww. cestisdbest.com.

Dražen Trogrlić - Zvijezda Mediterana, 2011. Photo by Goran Vranić, Modern Gallery Archives

Gustafi - Maneštra

Dražen Trogrlić - Svetac, 2000. Photo by Goran Vranić, Modern Gallery Archives

03.05 Tuesday - 08.05 Sunday Design Week Zagreb For the second time in Croatia, welcome to a series of events and gatherings not only for designers, but art historians, economists, journalists and the general public alike. Lectures, exhibitions, workshops and awards will draw public attention as a promotion of creativity and invention.QH‑3, Lauba – The House for People and Art, Baruna Filipovića 23a, www.lauba.hr. 04.05 Wednesday - 07.05 Saturday The Showcase of a Contemporary Sound With its openness to new, experimental and technologically developed contemporary sounds, this music festival is slowly cementing its place as an event which brings a breath of fresh air to the Croatian contemporary music scene. Its open and unlimited concept with no specific genres and musical styles makes it both unconventional yet very creative. Stay tuned for line-up announcements. QB‑4, Student’s Centre, Savska cesta 25, www.izlog. sczg.hr. 20 Zagreb In Your Pocket

30.05 Monday - 05.06 Sunday Floraart 2016 - International Garden Exhibition Flower power takes on Zagreb! Being one of the biggest horticultural events in Europe, hundreds of exhibitors from Croatia and the rest of the world turn Bundek Park into an oasis of beautiful flowers and colours. A whole range of events will include the Florists Croatian Cup to lectures, workshops, concerts and a special program for children in Floragrad. Free admission to all events!QJ‑4, Bundek Park, www.zrinjevac.hr.

Side Project - Reflektor Festival

25.04 Monday - 08.05 Sunday The Saint Mark’s Festival Followers of classical music and in particular chamber and sacral music will be able to see renowned soloists and ensembles from Croatia and abroad. Concerts are held at various venues and churches in the city’s Upper and Lower town.Qwww.festivalsvmarka.hr.

28.05 Saturday - 29.05 Sunday LegendFest Head out to the small village of Lukavec, towards Velika Gorica for this festival of myths, legends and stories. The castle and its surrounding woods are the perfect setting to meet some of the dragons from various Croatian legends, there are old crafts for show, treasure to be found and much more for both children and adults alike.QLukavec, www.legendfest.hr. Entrance free.

16.05 Monday - 22.05 Sunday Zagreb Book Festival 2016: Ireland – The Promised Land In promotion of reading and writing, this is a much needed event with the strengthening of new media; the 5,000 books available can vindicate that. More so, this year’s host country is ‘Ireland’, a nation known for its strong literary tradition and the audience will get to meet and greet some of the best contemporary Irish and Croatian writers. Two countries with so much in common, and so much to share!QB‑3, Arts and Crafts Museum, Trg maršala Tita 10, www.zgbookfest.hr. 18.05 Wednesday International Museum Day The Museum Documentation Centre (MDC) alongside many Croatian museums will organise over 200 different events, exhibitions, workshops, lectures and concerts. So if you love your fair share of history and art come and celebrate with the city of Zagreb.Qwww.mdc.hr. 20.05 Friday - 05.06 Sunday Screen on the Green The Open Air Festival of Films will take place in the most popular parks around the city. Film screenings are free of charge and visitors can enjoy some of the most films from around the world. So, pick up a blanket and some snacks and come lounge in the park with your loved ones. Watch a movie under the stars for a unique, new experience. Qwww.screen.com.hr. zagreb.inyourpocket.com

End of May - Mid of September Strossmartre - Summer on Stross Embark on a journey towards the Strossmayer Promenade, next to the Lotršćak Tower and you’ll be pleasantly surprised by the range of music, film, theatre, fine art and entertainment on offer. The programme is daily with kick off before midday as the festival runs into the evening. Totally romantic, totally free!QB‑2, Strossmayer Promenade, www.ljetonastrosu.com. 03.06 Friday - 04.06 Saturday Reflektor Art and Music Festival This is the new kid on the block in terms of festivals, a boutique type festival with lots of international and local flavour and flair. The two day event is set at Tuškanac in the heart of town with two female singers and songwriters in UK artist Ana Calvi and our very own Lovely Quinces (Dunja Ercegović) headlining, electro-pop attraction Side Project will follow. Day two sees the alternative rock duo Blood Red Shoes and another rock act in Jonathan from Rijeka performing. This event will be boasted by exhibitions, readings and an after party programme. QB‑1, Tuškanac Cinema Plateau, www.facebook.com/ reflektorfest. Starts at 19:00. Tickets 60 - 140kn. 04.06 Saturday - 05.06 Sunday The 31st Old-timer Rally Vroom vroom! This fair and rally of vintage cars and motorcycles has been running for over three decades and has become a twoday trademark city event; bringing back the good old days for many and giving the new generation an eye-catching glimpse of former beauties that used to rule the streets!QVarious loca‑ tions across city, www.oldtimer-klub-zagreb.hr. facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

the 15th festival of the european short story 29.05 Sunday - 03.06 Friday Short, sweet, dynamic and packed with loads of fun is the best way to describe the European Short Story Festival, an international literary festival in Zagreb which every year brings together the world’s best writers and winners of the most respected literary prizes such as the Pulitzer, the Man Booker Prize, the Independent, Strega, Dublin IMPAC, Frank O’Connor or the American National Book Award. Literature lovers will lavish at the fact that various award-winning writers from four different continents will gather in Zagreb to discuss the most current of all topics suitably titled ON/NO TRESSPASSING, thus defining the short story festival as equally rebellious and almost as thorough as the topic of Europe. Where are our borders and what is it that awaits us outside of them? When it comes to the ‘Short Story’, the response may seem simple; no matter how different they are, definitions always revolve around the number of characters or the number of pages, the relationship towards the plot and time or the literary forms which delimit it - but what of the people who write stories? What of those to whom the story is not fictional but a true reality? What is ‘forbidden’ and ‘foreign’ to the author and how do they relate to the boundaries/bans? Where do we stop in life and where with art? How is and where is a writer’s passport valued - how does it serve him while approaching the limits of language and genre, ethical and poetic, cultural and social, political and gender? And how does he cope with the restrictions that each of these bring? The winner of the Independent Award and the only person who received it for a book of stories written in Arabic - Hassan Blas (Iraq /Finland); the winner of the Prix Femina Kerry Hudson (Scotland /UK); the stars of contemporary Mexican (Yuri Herrera) and Argentinian literature (Samantha Schweblin and Andrés Neuman), the best writers from neighbouring countries to Croatia Drago Jančar (Slovenia), Faruk Šehić(Bosnia and Herzegovina) and Rumena Bužarovska (Macedonia); wellknown authors to the Croatian audience Frode Grytten (Norway), Josip Novakovich (Canada) and Afonso Cruz (Portugal) as well as those to whom we have not had the pleasure of meeting as yet - Bel Olid (Catalonia/ Spain), Lina Wolff (Sweden), Cosmin Perţa (Romania), and Rosella Milone (Italy). These are just some of the guests of the festival who will present, read, discuss and reflect on the aforementioned borders, helping us to recognise them around us and perhaps exceed them within ourselves.QTeatar &td, Savska 25; Booksa, Martićeva 14d; Italian Cultural Institute, Preobraženska 4; Vinyl, Bogovićeva ulica 3; Bogdan Ogrizović Library, Preradovićeva 5, www.europeanshortstory.org. Spring 2016 21

Culture & Events

Culture & Events 06.06 Monday - 11.06 Saturday The World Festival of Animated Film - Animafest Zagreb Are you passionate about animation? This is the second oldest festival of its kind in Europe which attracts intriguing world animations. With awards, pitching forums and the advocacy on animation essential to the event, it is of no wonder that it’s a magnet for known and wannabe authors and producers in the field.Qwww.animafest.hr. 16.06 Thursday - 19.06 Sunday Design District Zagreb An inspiring and creative four-day urban event catering to design lovers as well as the general public! It’s all about the changing look of city districts with aspontaneous organic renaissance taking place;the rise of galleries, farmer’s markets, cafes, bookshops, florists etc. Expect numerous pop-up showcases, site-specific art installations, rooftop events, exclusively guided architectural tours, socially valuable designer concepts, gastro & coffee spots, and educative and craft workshops.QVarious locations across city centre, www.designdistrict.hr. 17.06 Friday - 19.06 Sunday Fireworks Festival What better to warm up to summer then to see this grand fireworks festival right by the River Sava. Venture down to Lake Bundek as a myriad of beer tents and concerts provide the onground entertainment whereas the fireworks, which are held every evening, will set the sky alive.QJ‑4, Bundek Lake, www. en.mirnovec.hr. 20.06 Monday - 22.06 Wednesday INmusic festival #11 Welcome to a smashing European festival which is in its 11th year. Lake Jarun is home to some mega artists which this year includes Florence and the Machine, PJ Harvey, Skunk Anansie, Gutterdammerung featuring Henry Rollins, Jake Bugg, The Kooks, Wilco and more. Crank it!QG‑4/5, Jarun Lake, www. inmusicfestival.com. Festival ticket: 300kn. Camping ticket: 202.5kn. 22.06 wednesday - 23.06 thursday Zagreb Calling A double whammy of ‘music for the masses’ at the open air Šalata venue with Mick Hucknall and his band ‘Simply Red’ headlining the first day and are sure to serenade the crowd with their chart topping hits. Croatian icons Jinx and Natali Dizdar will play on through the first night. Day two sees John Newman gracing the stage with his soulful voice and growing hits including ‘Love me again, Losing Sleep, Out of my head, and Feel the Love’ which were all world hits. QTickets 170 - 320kn.

Cest is d’best Archives

22 Zagreb In Your Pocket

24.06 Friday - 16.07 Saturday Summer in MSU The third edition of this highly successful multimedia program filled with concerts, exhibitions, film screenings and international literature panels will once again take place at Zagreb’s Museum of Contemporary Art.QJ-4, Contemporary Art Mu‑ seum, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, www.msu.hr. zagreb.inyourpocket.com

27.06 Monday - 20.07 Wednesday The 35th Zagreb Summer Evenings A usual, this year’s edition of this prominent classical music festival will once again host some of the best and most renowned Croatian and international musicians, soloists and chamber ensembles, do stay tuned for the latest in the line-up.QC‑1, Klovićevi dvori Gallery, Jezuitski trg 4, www.kdz.hr. 30.06 Thursday - 09.07 Saturday Fantastic Zagreb Film Festival Let’s all have some fresh air, literally and artistically, with a wonderful and refreshing range of top-notch films from all over the world during this unique open-air film festival. It’s an awesome week to contemplate movies and stars that justly deserve the mental musings. Qwww.fantastic-zagreb.com. 30.06 Thursday - 03.07 Sunday Vintage Zagreb Rockabilly is back, the best of the 40s, 50s and 60s can be experienced at this suave festival of fashion, style, hairstyle, music, art and design. Swing is back, slicked hair is in and the party begins. Be a part of this great Americana type experience which gives Fonzie from the Happy Days a stroll down memory lane.QC‑2, Ulica Augusta Cesarca, www.facebook.com/VintageZagrebFestival.

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John Newman - Zagreb Calling Archives

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Culture & Events

Restaurants ALl jazzed up! The beauty of jazz is that it can be any tempo, texture, or rhythm, and it leaves room for improvisation where the musician or group ‘go wild, go all out, and revel in showing off their talents’. We know this ohhh too well which explains why this Spring’s Zagreb Calendar is so jazzalicious!

Kazushi Ono - Zagreb Philharmonic Orchestra Archives

Andrea Solomon & Ema Janković - Prison of Decision, Dance Week Festival Archives

Eric Sardinas Gerriet K. Sharma - Photo by Kristijan Smok, Muzički centar Archives

06.04 Wednesday HRT Jazz Orchestra feat. Terell Stafford - The Cat Terell Stafford a trumpeter, composer, bandleader and educator from New York, will be performing some of his newest compositions with HRT Jazz Orchestra this spring. This talented musician is head of the Jazz Orchestra of Philadelphia and a Lecturer at the Temple University, and has performed with famous groups, such as the Grammy-winning Vanguard Orchestra. QJ‑4, Gorgona Hall, Contemporary Art Museum, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, www.jazz.hr. Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 50kn. 13.04 Wednesday - 16.04 Saturday Jazz.hr/Spring 2016 The Vatroslav Lisinski Small Concert Hall will be illuminated once again with this cracking annual Jazz event. The four day bonanaza will include the Joachim Kühn, then there is NeTTwork which is known for its distinctive sound and spectacular improvisations of jazz standards, and that of other genres too. Ratko Vojtek Solo is Croatia’s bad boy of jazz who is known for his unconvential yet breathtaking piano work and finally Czech jazz bassist Miroslav Vitous will be joined by the Croatian Radio and Television’s Jazz Orchestra, Vitous is known as one of the most creative improvisers of jazz double bass today.QI‑3, Vatroslav Lisinski Small Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, www.jazz.hr. Concerts start at 20:00. Tickets 70kn. 04.05 Wednesday Croatian Radio and Television Jazz Orchestra - Tu fragancia: Miron Hauser’s Artist’s Night After Kadoić, Križić, Kovačević, Žužić and Marinello, Miron Hauser gets to steal this year’s limelight. Hauser is the orchestra’s trombonist who studied jazz at the Universities of Graz and Trieste and finds his inspiration mostly in the Latin style, therefore a lush brass section and richness of rhythms can be expected which he’ll blend into his own virtuoso expression and style.QJ‑4, Gorgona Hall, Contemporary Art Museum, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, www.jazz.hr. Concert starts at 20:00.

www.inyourpocket.com 24 Zagreb In Your Pocket

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Croatian Didov san Authentic Dalmatian cuisine, we recommend the beef and lamb roast cooked in the traditional ‘ispod peke’ style. The prosciutto, homemade sausages and freshly baked bread are to die for. Fresh desserts and a proud wine selection make for a fine way to dine. Also at Bencekovićeva 28.QB‑1, Mletačka ulica 11, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 54/ (+385-) 091 484 20 61, [email protected], www.konoba-didovsan.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (45 - 130kn). P­A­L­G­W Isabella A delightful restaurant in the suburb of Sesvete, just 15 minutes drive from Zagreb. It’s something like a converted barn, with a superb raftered dining room, where they offer up all kinds of meals with local and international accents (such as fondue, flambeed dishes and chateaubriand). The emphasis is definitely on meat - they have a game section on the menu, and frogs’ legs. QVinogorska 55, tel. (+385-1) 200 63 73, [email protected], www. restoran-isabella.hr. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (65 - 110kn). P­L­N­G­B­W Okrugljak Expensive and worth it, Okrugljak has a flawless reputation because of its star-studded ambience and food. At the base of Medvednica.QD‑2, Mlinovi 28, tel. (+385-1) 467 41 12, [email protected], www.okrugljak.hr. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (65 - 175kn). P­A­L­E­G­B­W Pivana Having recently undergone a major facelift there was genuine curiosity as to how Pivana would emerge from it all. Have no fear, because somehow the food is even better now. More of a beer & pub food orientated menu, the only complaint to be had is that the food tasted of ‘more’. Ribs, burgers, and sauces abound. Tables with private taps are available, and with the parent brewery putting more options on the market you’ll not have a bad time here.QH‑3, Ilica 222, tel. (+385-1) 377 53 77. Open Mon - Wed 07:00 - 24:00, Thu - Fri 07:00 - 02:00, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. P­A­L­G­B­X­W Stari fijaker 900 A beer hall and a restaurant, this double agent is a favourite among locals and tourists alike. Located on the picturesque street Mesnička, which heads towards Upper Town, Stari fijaker is popular for its beans, its low-key atmosphere and its cuisine from the northern Croatian region of Zagorje. Homemade soups, fresh mushrooms, and an array of duck, turkey and lamb dishes. A great choice of beers, both domestic and international, is available in what is apparently one of Zagreb’s oldest beer halls.QB‑2, Mesnička 6, tel. (+385-1) 483 38 29/(+385-1) 483 12 36, info@ starifijaker.hr, www.starifijaker.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (30 - 80kn). P­A­G­X­W facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Fajn Bistro Archives

Vinodol Its grilled dishes are hard to beat and it’s especially well known for its lamb meal. A great place to try some of the traditional goodies, its outdoor dining opportunity is perhaps the best in the centre of town, with candle-light flickering as you move from anxious and disagreeable to smooth and charming (finally). Highly recommended. QC‑2, Nikole Tesle 10, tel. (+385-1) 481 14 27/(+385-1) 481 13 41, [email protected], www.vinodol-zg.hr. Open 10:00 - 23:30. (65 - 100kn). P­J­A­6­G­B­W

Meet the meat Batak grill A full review for Batak would literally take pages. This restaurant chain already covers most of the city. Highly trained and polite staff, the menu is always being kept fresh. A recommendation is close to impossible to pick, but if pushed you simply have to try the mazalica with urnebes. Divine.QK‑2, Vlaška 115, tel. (+385-1) 466 43 31, [email protected], www.batak-grill.hr. Open 11:00 23:00. (35 - 70kn). P­T­A­6­V­G­B­X­S­W

twitter.com/inyourpocket Spring 2016 25

Restaurants

Restaurants International ManO Clean lines, dark wood and cool lounge music make this a gastronomic haven for the city´s younger generation. The meat-based menu is pleasingly multinational in its orientation - you´ll definitely find something that takes you away from the run of the mill. Excellent wines. Reserve in advance. QI‑2, Medvedgradska 2, tel. (+385-1) 466 94 32, mano@ mano.hr, www.mano.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (80 - 150kn). P­A­G­B­W

Photo by Višnja Arambašić

Seafood Dubravkin put Nestled in the peaceful greenery of Tuškanac, visitors to this hide-away hot spot are welcomed with a wine-wall entrance and swept away to Dalmatia with seafood delights. The understated, rustic exterior highlights the fresh and elegant restaurant and wine bar. The vino selection alone is worth the trek but we suggest donning your Sunday best with friends and an apetite for an unforgettable fine-dining affair.QB‑1, Dubravkin put 2, tel. (+385-1) 483 49 75, [email protected], www.dubravkinput.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (90 - 150kn). P­J­A­L­G­B­W

Zinfandels Zinfandels, named for a variety of grape which originated in Croatia, specialises in light, Mediterranean-inspired food, using local and international know-how to best create great dishes which resonate with regional authenticity. The huge štrukli is well worth trying, and if you were to try two, no one could fault you.QC‑4, Mihanovićeva 1 (Esplanade Za‑ greb Hotel), tel. (+385-1) 456 66 44/(+385-1) 456 66 66, [email protected], www.zinfandels.hr. Open 06:00 - 23:00, Sun 06:30 - 23:00. (130 - 220kn). P­A­G­B­W

Italian Agava Pleasantly furnished in rattan and wood, this trattoria offers Mediteranean dishes, pasta, fresh salmon and tuna, plate salads and a great wine list.QC‑2, Tkalčićeva 39, tel. (+385-1) 482 98 26, [email protected], www.restaurantagava.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (57 - 290kn). J­A­G­ B­W

Korčula Locals find it supremely authentic - the fish is as rubbery as a racquetball, which is evidently how momma’s been doing it for the last millennium or so. If you want to understand the meaning of Dalmatia and you don’t want to have to go far to do it, this is your place.QC‑2, Nikole Tesle 17, tel. (+385-1) 487 21 59, [email protected], www.restoran-korcula.hr. Open 10:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (70 - 120kn). P­J­A­G­B­W

Cantina A little piece of Italy in the heart of Zagreb. Here you’ll find the menu brimming with handmade pasta, sauce, and bread. It’s a blend of Italian tradition, passion, and know-how, and of course the almost stereotypical Italian chef singing in the kitchen while preparing everything, show-cooking style. The shelves are awash with wines on offer, and Cantina might well be the only place in Zagreb (if not the entire country) where you can get your hands on a sparkling red wine. There’s even Italian beer on the menu. There’s talk of new locations opening soon, so get in there before everyone else learns about it.QD‑2, Trg Drage Iblera 10, tel. (+385-) 091 592 59 03, www.cantina.hr. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (18 - 65 kn). P­i ­T­J­A­B­S

Ribice i tri točkice With colorfully whimsical, dream-like images of the Adriatic adorning each wall and window, treat all your senses to a seaside dinner getaway at Fish and Three Dots in the city’s center. Be sure to ask for the daily specials of fish, fish and more fish offered at this seafood bistro that’s wrapped in the heart-lifting artistry of Rijeka’s Vojo Radoičić.QC‑2, Ulica Petra Preradovića 7/1, tel. (+385-1) 563 54 79, [email protected], www.ribiceitritockice.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (30 - 80kn). P­J­A­G­B­W

Carpaccio Satisfy your desire for the finest of Italian cuisine with this robust menu offered in the heart of the city center. From carpacci to dolci, each meal is delectable and complemented from a near endless selection of wines. While retaining an atmosphere of top-class dining, the freshly renovated bistro-style interior playfully invites guests to indulge and enjoy.QC‑2, Teslina 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 23 31, carpaccio@ ristorantecarpaccio.hr, www.ristorantecarpaccio.hr. Open 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (55 - 150kn). P­J­A­G­B­W

26 Zagreb In Your Pocket

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Chic & Cheerful Cušpajz Enjoy a warm and hearty stew, or as the Croatians like to call it, cušpajz, in this quaint little restaurant which feels like a vegetable garden and is a delight to dine in. Slurp your stew as you snuggle into a cozy little alcove indoors or sit under a shaded canvas outdoors enjoying the sites and sounds of the downtown. Everyday you can choose between a veggie or meat cušpajz dish. The menu changes daily so you’ll never get bored and will want to come back again and again for more.QC‑2, Ljudevita Gaja 9, tel. (+385-1) 487 50 45, [email protected], www.cuspajz.hr. Open 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. 38kn. P­J­N­G­B Mali Bar Understated fabulousness permeates this must-go spot carved into a city center alleyway staircase. The relaxed, happy clientele make the most impressive aspect of the decor with over thirty business casual making up the major hues. Stop in anytime for wine and fab tapas but with a tv-famous chef in the kitchen.QD‑2, Vlaška 63, tel. (+3851) 553 10 14, [email protected]. Open 12:30 23:00. Closed Sun. (40 - 90kn). P­A­G­B­W Sherry’s Wine & Bites Sherry’s, once over by Dom Sportova, and now occupying the former premises of Bistro Bardot in the courtyard facing Britanac. Here you could be excused for spending an hour at least perusing the wines available, but it would be an hour well spent. Croatian craft beer on tap, and some vibrant and interesting items on the food menu. Try their Sunday brunch, we think you’ll be pleased.QA‑2, Ilica 73 (in the yard), tel. (+385-1) 400 81 50/(+385-) 091 250 77 12, [email protected], www.sherrys.eu. Open 10:00 24:00, Wed - Sat 10:00 - 02:00. (35 - 160kn). P­T­J­ A­6­G­B­W

Ethnic Asia Thought by many to be the nicest Chinese in town, it’s also in the best space: an elegant building overlooking the landscaped Tomislav Square. There’s none of the OTT decor that you so often find in restaurants of this kind; in fact it’s perfectly suited to a business meal. Food is consistently top quality, and the service swift and professional. Also at Nova Ves 88, tel. 466 78 26.QD‑3, Augusta Šenoe 1, tel. (+385-1) 484 12 18, [email protected], www.asia.hr. Open 11:30 - 23:00. (29 - 125kn). P­A­G­W Asia T House Zagreb has seen a rise in non-regional cuisine in recent months and years, and all of it very much welcomed indeed. Here, just around the corner from the main square, you can call in for tea, coffee, beer, most of it with a distinct Asian feel to it. But it’s not just a place for a break from shopping, it’s a place TO shop, and to eat. The market is expansive and offers a great many ingredients for the burfacebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

geoning chefs among you, while the restaurant has a menu packed full of familiar items, and some not so familiar. Connected to the Asia Gold restaurant, so you know it’s quality. QC‑2, Vlaška 9, tel. (+385-1) 468 38 86, [email protected], www.asia-thouse.com.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (45 - 150kn). California Burrito Nestled neatly at the back of a courtyard, this eatery should be considered an ideal place to stop at the end of the night, or indeed as a quiet alternative to more central locations. A wide selection of regional beers is available, as well as one Mexican import, and is most suitable for a Friday evening after-work wind-down.QB‑2, Masarykova 11, tel. (+385-) 095 169 64 73, [email protected], www.burrito.hr. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (19 - 29kn). P­V­N­G­B­S­W Royal India Located by the Zagreb Cathedral, Royal India is the perfect place to savour some authentic Indian cuisine. Situated in the basement, the scent of incense greets you at the door and creates a temple-like atmosphere. Try some samosas, tandoori chicken and warm naan with a cup of lassi or cardamom tea along with a wide variety of other delicious dishes. Be careful when ordering your food spicy because unlike most of the restaurants in Zagreb, the food really is spicy. Best of all, the extremely friendly staff recommends the best dishes with the freshest ingredients for the day.QC‑1, Kaptol 27, tel. (+385-1) 468 09 65, [email protected], www.royalindia-zagreb.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (35 - 95kn). P­J­A­G­W Spring 2016 27

Restaurants

Restaurants Fajn Bistro ‘Fajn’ dining indeed here, as any regular will tell you. Well known for its exceptionally friendly staff, Fajn is situated in Zagreb’s Upper Town, well within striking distance of a multitude of tourist sites, and Zagreb’s plentiful watering holes. Mediterranean, international and contemporary food is on offer, and the wine menu won’t disappoint.QB‑1, Vranyczanyeva 6, tel. (385-1) 485 14 11, [email protected], www.fajnbistro.com.hr. Open 13:00 - 22:30. Closed Sun. (50 - 120kn). P­T­J­A­ L­G­B­X­W Lateral Situated behind the Main Bus Station, Lateral is already getting pretty good press from, for the most part it must be said, weary travellers glad of being able to enjoy a proper meal, and still be near their bus to the airport. The food, the desserts, the wine list… No complaints can be had. The hot chocolate brownie is definitely something that will draw you back for seconds.QE‑4, Strojarska 22, tel. (+385-1) 611 14 11/(+385-) 098 43 30 55, lateral@ cateringlisak.hr, www.cateringlisak.hr. Open 11:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (45 - 150kn). P­T­A­U­G­B­ X­W

Cantina Archives

Time Restaurant & Bar Time, in a classical sense, might be fleeting, but this place certainly isn’t. Perhaps better known to many as a great bar, Time is also a restaurant serving Asian fusion food, something not so common in Zagreb even a few years ago. Whatever you order make sure you try the spring rolls with duck.QC‑2, Petrinjska 7, tel. (+385-1) 333 36 60. Open Mon - Thu 07:00 - 02:00, Fri 07:00 - 03:00, Sat 09:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. (70 - 160kn). P­T­J­A­ G­B­K­X

Lunches Bistro Jadranka Perhaps not exactly central, Bistro Jadranka is near enough to the centre to be accessible, but far enough away that your fellow guests are likely to be locals. Menu changes each Monday, with extra fish dishes added each Friday. Has an active Facebook account where you can find out what’s available in a given week. You can pick your own wine from the shop next door, and have it with your meal for a small surcharge.QI‑3, Ulica Grada Vukovara 56, tel. (+385-1) 611 35 18. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 129kn). P­i ­A­G­B­S 28 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Pod Zidom Coffee, Food & Wine Bar Pod Zidom (Under the Wall) is a wine bar and bistro, it offers dishes made from the fresh groceries which it gets from the nearby Dolac market, a wide selection of Croatian indigenous wines, as well as the usual array of cocktails and refreshments. A must try is Ručak s Dolca (Lunch from Dolac), as every ingredient is prepared with care, creativity, and love. From 11:00 to 23:00, every day, Pod Zidom has a special a la carte menu, featuring beef carpaccio, pork sliders, agnolotti with rabbit ragu, spring asparagus and broad beans risotto, chicken drumstick-thigh cooked in a vacuum, liquid chocolate cake. QC‑2, Pod Zidom 5, tel. (+385-) 098 66 96 90, [email protected]. Open 11:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (30 - 75kn). E­B

Pizza Franky’s Eat in or have it delivered, Franky’s is situated just north of Zagreb’s nightlife district in the Kaptol Centre (2nd floor), so is a handy place to grab a bite (and have a drink) before heading home, and in relative peace and quiet too. Do your shopping, settle in for a meal, enjoy a glass of wine. Franky’s does white pizza, which is not always something you’ll see in any pizzeria.QI‑2, Nova ves 17, tel. (+385-1) 486 08 34, [email protected]. Open 10:00 - 22:45. (22 - 63kn). P­T­J­A­U­L­V­G­B­ X­S­W

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kod Žaca If you’ve not heard of this place then you’ve not spoken to anyone living within its delivery radius. Known for its pizza and lasagne you could probably eat here all month long and still have something new to try. Zagreb is truly blessed when it comes to pizza, and it’s nigh impossible to suggest a must-try for here…but the biftek pizza probably edges it.QJ‑2, Nike Grškovića 4, tel. (+385-1) 468 41 78, www.pizzakodzaca.hr. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (40 - 70kn). P­T­6­V­N­G­S­W O’Hara O’Hara’s is well known throughout Zagreb, having seen their pizza chefs win award after award, after award. The western suburbs of the capital might seem an odd place for a pizzeria such as this, but the locals aren’t complaining, and nor are the many others who travel across the city to eat here. Everything tastes divine, and while you might come away thinking you could have eaten more, you will not feel the least bit hungry. That’s a guarantee. QF‑3, I.B.Mažuranić 1b, tel. (+385-1) 379 21 12, www. oharazagreb.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (39 - 86kn). P­T­A­G­B­X­S Zero Zero Zero Zero sits near a corner of Vlaška, not far from the tramline, and it’s transport you’ll need after eating here… The pizzas are HUGE, and taste of more. The food is Neapolitan, and we’d love to tell you more about the décor and general surrounds, but the meat and seafood pizzas kept the reviewers glued to their plates. Great for dates, family gatherings, or even a solo trip.QD‑2, Vlaška 35, tel. (+385-1) 889 70 00. Open 10:30 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 23:00. (20 - 69kn). P­T­J­A­U­G­B­X­W

repast. Kitchen closes at 22:00QB‑2, Masarykova 11/1, tel. (+385-1) 889 74 44/(+385-) 099 254 69 59, contactzagreb@ nishtarestaurant.com, www.nishtarestaurant.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (49 - 69kn). P­T­J­A­6­ G­W Šumski Kuhar Bistro Slap bang in the middle of the bustling centre, this first floor venue feels like it could be miles from any noise whatsoever. All ingredients are sourced in Croatia where possible, and the dessert menu would put many slastičarnice to shame.QC‑2, Tkalčićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 481 96 34, [email protected], www.sumskikuhar.com. Open 11:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (15 - 55kn). P­J­A­ 6­G­B­W Zrno Bio Bistro 100% organic food, the only place in Croatia which can boast such a thing, it also a decent selection of regional wines available. The interior is warm in appearance, with a narrow terrace outside if the weather allows. There’s a bookstore in the basement as well, for budding architects. QB‑2, Medulićeva 20, tel. (+385-1) 484 75 40, restoran@ bio-zrno.hr, www.zrnobiobistro.hr. Open 12:00 - 21:30. Closed Sun. (45 - 59kn). P­A­6­G­B­W

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Vege Restaurants

P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted

Nishta The menu has adequate depth and variety, and you’ll see a wonderful mix of cold raw, and hot cooked vegetarian dishes. The menu also contains vegan and gluten-free dishes for those more in tune with Mother Nature. Enjoy the local wines, beers, and home-made juices that Nishta has to offer. Staff is very helpful and will assist in choosing an option for those unfamiliar with vegetarian

T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

B Outside seating

L Guarded parking

S Take away

6 Pet-friendly

W Wifi

J Old town location

29 Zagreb facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket In Your Pocket

Spring 2016 29

Restaurants

Bistroteka Archives

Local Flavour BREAKFAST

hit the market

Bistro Fotić Vegetarian quiche with ham, omelets, coffee, freshly squeezed oranges, fried bread, whole-grain groat, eggs, apple and cheese strudel.QC‑3, Gajeva 25, tel. (+385-1) 481 04 76, [email protected], www.bistrofotic. com. Breakfast is served: Mon - Sat 08:00 - 11:00. Closed Sun. (20 - 40kn). i­J

If you love your food and enjoy cooking, you won’t want to miss the farmers’ markets. Zagreb has over 20 of them; most neighbourhoods have at least a few stalls selling fruit and vegetables, while at the larger markets you’ll also find meat, fish, dairy produce and a whole lot more.

Bistroteka Oatmeal, porridge, scrambled eggs, poached eggs, quinoa, and sandwiches with avocado.QC‑2, Nikole Tesle 14, tel. (+385-1) 483 77 11, www.bistroteka.hr. Breakfast is served: Mon - Fri 08:00 - 11:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun. (19 - 30kn). i­J Johann Franck Homemade cheese and sour cream, bacon and onion, gluten-free bread, omelet with cheese and mushrooms, turkey sandwich with mozzarella, toast, croissants with chocolate and jam.QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 9, johann.franck@ johannfranck.hr, www.franck.eu/johann-franck/. Break‑ fast is served: Mon - Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. (25 - 40kn). i­J Kava Tava How do you like your eggs? Cooked, scrambled or sunnyside-up? Not to mention bacon ‘n’ eggs, sausages ‘n’ eggs, toasts, Yankee Doodle pancakes, cottage cheese with cream, tortillas.QA‑2; C‑2, Britanski trg & Tkalčićeva ulica 12, [email protected], www.kavatava.com. Breakfast is served: 07:00 - 24:00. (14 - 110kn). i­J

Johann Franck Archives Cantina Archives

Louie Cafe & Kitchen English breakfast (eggs, bacon, sausages and mushrooms), a protein smoothie, yogurt with chia seeds, croissants, muffins, homemade focaccia with chicken, roast beef sandwiches and burgers.QC‑1, Nova Ves 19, tel. (+385-1) 466 61 59. Breakfast is served: Mon - Thu, Sun 08:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 23:00. (18 - 58kn). i­J Mundoaka Street Food - Food with Heart and Soul Poached eggs with salmon, brioche, toast, croissants, and muffin.QC‑2, Petrinjska 2, tel. (+385-1) 788 87 77, info@ mundoakastreetfood.com. Breakfast is served: Mon Sat 09:00 - 11:30. Closed Sun. (35 - 45kn). i­J The Brick Booze & Bites The menu sways more towards Istrian cuisine offering scrambled eggs with truffles, omul, asparagus, coffee, juice, champagne, bread with jam, pancakes, sandwiches with Istrian prosciutto and cheese, and Istrian fritters (pancake with Istrian curd and honey)QC‑1, Radićeva 36, [email protected]. Breakfast is served: Mon - Thu, Sun 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. (3555kn). i­J

30 Zagreb In Your Pocket

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The charms of open-air markets are known far and wide. Piles of produce gleaming in the sun; the local colour, the lively atmosphere. However, for outsiders it can be a daunting experience. You have to find a way to communicate with the stallholders. While the locals develop relationships with their favourite stallholders over years, you’re here just for the weekend. How can you be sure you’re not short-changed or given spoiled produce? ​ on’t be fooled into thinking that just because this is an D open-air market everything is as local as it is picturesque. If you look carefully you can spot the importers - the fruit is a little too regular in shape; the produce is not as fresh as it might be; the produce on sale is out of season and its packaging belies its foreign origins. The beauty of the market is buying veg that was picked early this morning (or yesterday at the latest). It’s travelled into town in a big chequered bag with the lady from the surrounding countryside - these ladies are known as kumice and for their years spent supplying the city’s markets they’ve earned their own statue at the top of the steps on Dolac market (C-2). Or it might be trucked in from the coast where it’s spent its life under the warm Dalmatian sun. See that bit of mud on the roots of your spinach? That’s a good sign that tells you this is the real deal. This food wasn’t raised on artificial substrate so it’s full of flavour. With a bit of luck it’s not soaked with chemical fertilizers or pesticides either. Look out for people with a slightly motley selection of goods that tell you they’re smallholders, not large-scale traders. Seek out imperfections in the produce - natural food is not all the same size and shape. Look for a nice bit of mud (but not too much water, that’s a trick to add weight on the scales). The aforementioned Dolac has been feeding the citizens of Zagreb since 1930, and it’s one of the liveliest spots in the city. From 06:00 to around 14:00, it’s full of banter, barter, chatter, shouting and laughter. It’s fringed by cafes and little food outlets; a trip there is an unmissable part of the sightseeing schedule. If you’re a vegetarian, you’ll want to avoid the meat section where you’ll be confronted by bits of carcass swinging all over the place. The meat market is far from unsanitary but it’s a far cry from the cellophane-wrapped sterility of the supermarket; there’s no kidding you where that pork chop came from. Here you can choose from fresh meat of all kinds, cured hams, bones and tails for your soup, spicy Slavonian kulen (a little like a giant chorizo), multitude salamis and the scourge of children everywhere, offal. facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Potentially even more off-putting is the dairy section at Dolac, an enclosed area with an unmistakeably milky aroma. There rows of ladies invite you to taste their wares, and we strongly advise you to do so. Try slivers of supple young cheese (svježi sir), rich sour cream (vrhnje), smoked cheese (dimljeni sir), cheese flavoured with paprika, nettle, herbs or made with goat’s or sheep’s milk (kozji, ovčji sir). Also look out for the Gligora stall selling highly-regarded cheese from Pag island. A trip to the fish section (ribarnica) is part culinary voyage, part natural history adventure. The creatures of the deep whose gaze you’ll meet you’ve probably never seen before. Along with shimmering crates of sardines are plump pink scorpion fish, exquisite yet ugly monkfish; jumbo Adriatic squid, conger eel, river trout and huge, fearsomely-toothed, delicious and hideously expensive dentex. If you’re not sure how to prepare these things, ask the stallholder who will usually gut them for you and offer advice on cooking. Look for fish with plump flesh and bright (not sunken) eyes. There’s fish to suit every pocket, and the cheapest, the humble sardine (just 20kn a kilo), is the healthiest of them all. At the far end of the open-air part of Dolac market you’ll find herbal teas and tinctures and traditional craft items such as lace tablecloths, embroidered slippers and wooden toys. Above is a plateau named after Petrica Kerempuh, a literary character. The Kerempuh restaurant is a great spot for a tasty lunch, and the Potepuh café has been the meeting place of artists and intellectuals for decades, including poet Tin Ujević and novelist Miroslav Krleža. In summer, you can buy bedding plants, herbs and other supplies for your garden or window box in this part of the market. Go a little further along Opatovina (C-1) and you’ll find stalls selling cheap clothing. Down the Dolac steps and towards the square are flower stalls, a mirror held up to the changing seasons. Along with hothouse staples there are always narcissi in the spring, chrysanthemums in autumn, and lavender and sunflowers to help you pay homage to the summer. As you can see, your shopping spree on Dolac is hard work so you deserve a break. A legendary place for a light lunch is Bistro Amfora, strategically positioned under the arches by the fish market. The place hasn’t changed in the past 30 years; it’s one of the last reminders of Zagreb in years gone by and the locals gather from dawn to chew over the day’s gossip. The smell of frying squid and sardines is irresistible. A main course (we suggest crni rižot, squid ink risotto) and a glass of wine will set you back just a few euro. The other main Zagreb markets include Britanski trg (A-2) (affectionately known as Britanac), which transforms into an antiques market on Sundays; and Trešnjevački plac (H-3) and Kvatrić (Kvaternikov trg J-3) - also largeish markets with good fish sections and much more. So, pick up your basket and head for the market! Great food, good cheer and some super photo opportunities await you. Spring 2016 31

Local Flavour The Foodie’s Guide 12.05 Thursday - 22.05 Sunday Zagreb Beer & Burger Festival Many of you know the classic ‘two all beef paddies on a sesame seed bun commercial’ and you’ll be seeing plenty of buns and burgers at the Strossmayer Square in May. Starve if you need to, but come with empty tummies and full pockets so that you can eat and drink to your hearts content with the best Beers and Burgers in town, this is an invite to our vegetarian friends too, there’s plenty of variety for everyone!QC‑3, Trg Josipa Jurja Strossmayera. Burger - Louie Cafe & Kitchen Archives

Coffee & Cakes 21.05 Saturday Flavours and fragrances of Croatia Under the motto ‘fall in love with Croatian traditional cuisine’, everyone is invited to this brand new event which aims to promote the wide range of national foods and dishes that are distinguished by their unique taste, aroma and consistency. Feel free to dabble and experiment in premium foods and beverages and see why table culture is an indispensable part of Croatian life.Qwww.phs.hr. 09.06 Thursday - 10.07 Sunday Foodbalerka - Retro Gourmet Football Festival The European Football Championships can be seen live and on big screens at Park Ribnjak, just behind the Cathedral. The name of the event is a cross between food & football, and most of all the mullet hairstyles that soccer players had in the 80s, named fudbalerka in Croatian. Lots of food and beverage stands will have you pacing up and down the park, bring a blanket and get into the EURO championships in style!QD‑1, Ribnjak Park. Cooking workshops for tourists with disabilities In the City Centre, at Nova Ves 10, the UNUO Association has organised free culinary weekend workshops for tourists with disabilities. Groups are small, so reserve your spot at www.unuo.hr (prijava) and learn how to make traditional Croatian specialities in a comfortable environment full of uninterrupted enjoyment, socialising, and fun. Besides tourists with disabilities, everyone else can also join the workshop!QC‑1, UNUO Association, Nova Ves 10, www.unuo.hr.

Photo by Višnja Arambašić

The Little Market from the Attic Many people feel they’d love to have better access to healthy, organically grown food. And at the same time, producers of organic food need better access to customers. The Little Market from the Attic (Mali plac s Tavana) is an answer to this problem, enabling people to have a lot of fun along the way. Here you can find all kinds of interesting delicacies from the furthest corners of Croatia, plus natural cosmetics, eco-friendly cleaning products and a whole lot more. It’s also a meeting place where you can learn from others about growing and enjoying natural healthy food. For locations and dates check their website. Qwww.mali-plac.org. J Wine School by Jelena Šimić Valentić Love wine! Wanna learn more? Enroll into these workshops which provide for 15 to 20 people. They consist of three 180 minute sessions per month with the exact dates to be released two weeks prior to school starting. Classes always begin at 18:30 and four international wines will always be tasted!Qtel. (+385-) 098 165 80 73, pupitres@ pupitres.hr, www.pupitres.hr.

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Coffee A Most Unusual Garden Enter a garden, not just any garden, a garden filled with decoration and as you begin to hear the chimes and rhythm, you’ll stumble across a tree house turn café. This architectural masterpiece is decked out in a lush bohemian style, fancy yet rustic. Hot’n’cold beverages are available all day round and you can choose to chill sky high or down to earth, if you know what we mean.QH‑4, Horvaćanska 3, tel. (+385-) 091 464 69 00. Open 08:00 - 24:00. P­G­B­X­W Booksa Chill, laid back, Booksa could be a bookshop or library for all the reading material on offer. Come in, order from a wide selection of teas, pick a book off the shelf, and relax. There are also readings and workshops on a regular basis. A far-reaching vision indeed.QD‑2, Martićeva 14d, tel. (+385-1) 461 61 24, [email protected], www.booksa.hr. Open 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. 6­N­G­B­W Dežman Bar Dežmanova is surely Zagreb’s most hip street. Already home to great fast food joints and cafes, it’s also where you’ll find Dežman Bar with its cocktails, snacks and pastries. It’s gluten free, if you’re concerned about allergens, and it stocks Croatian beers. But don’t worry if you think it’s somehow a ‘hippy’ bar… they have a BBQ sandwich on the menu too!QB‑2, Dežmanova 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 61 60, [email protected], www.dezman.hr. Open 08:00 24:00, Fri - Sat 08:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. P­i ­T­J­ B­X­W Divas The yumminess of Divas cafe is at least in part a product of its previous life as a fashion boutique and its owner’s first love in the world of design. Intimate and inspiring seating areas create a welcoming aura as an enticing prelude to drink selections complimented by cakes and munchies. Tea, coffee and spirits lovers alike can savor the variety of classic and unique selections listed at drinkably affordable rates in the hand-sewn menu cards.QD‑2, Martićeva 17, tel. (+385-1) 457 99 42, [email protected]. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. P­N­G­ B­X­W Eli’s Any coffee aficionado would be mad not to pay this small coffee shop a visit. Non-smoking, because the owner feels it ruins the taste, and serving nothing but coffee, Eli’s has one of the friendliest staff ever encountered in oft-gruff Zagreb. Coffee is seasonal so you can be sure of getting the right sort of coffee to match the time of year. Eli’s are careful about the quality of their product and only supply a few locations elsewhere in the city.QA‑2, Ilica 63, tel. (+385-) 091 455 56 08, [email protected], www.eliscaffe.com. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. P­J­N­G­W facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Velvet Archives

Express Bar It’s an unassuming looking place, but with friendly staff (but oh so skilled), and a pretty decent selection of coffee and tea blends. Plenty of seating both indoors and outside, naturally, on the street. Coffee? Purely seasonal and is based on fresh harvest and freshly roasted coffee. Express has ‘blends’, a mixture of coffee most often from different countries, so Costa Rica, Salvador and Brazil might be in blend this week, whereas next weeks could be entirely different. They also have single origin coffee! So, if you devour coffee, then you need to put the time aside to try a few cups.QC‑2, Petrinjska 4. Open 07:00 – 23:00, Sat 08:00 – 22:00, Sun 09:00 – 14:00. Kino Europa Zagreb’s best known arthouse cinema, Kino Europa is so much more. Serving as a large café by day (with cakes and sandwiches available) the nights offer twice as much. Two halls play host to events such as quizzes, music performances, and of course documentaries. Kino Europa is not only home to any number of film festivals but also to a rather kitsch shop where one can procure some very eclectic items indeed. It should be a weekly ritual to check the cinema’s website for upcoming features.QB‑2, Varšavska 3, tel. (+385-1) 487 28 88, [email protected], www. kinoeuropa.hr. Open 08:30 - 02:00. P­J­B­W Palainovka Situated on Ilirski trg, this is ideally placed to act as starting point, or finishing point, for those eager to explore the area outside the old walls of Zagreb. Around the corner you’ll find a path leading onto Dubravkin put, which in Spring 2016 33

Coffee & Cakes turn takes you up a beautiful walk to the woods at the back of Ksaverska. If you’re ending here you’ll be happy to know that you’ll get your croissants or krafne on top of your tea and coffee. Comfy seats, great music policy, and an even better selection of beer.QC‑1, Ilirski trg 1, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 57/(+385-) 098 904 13 02, [email protected]. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. P­N­B­X­W Pif Always nice to sit on a heated terrace, during the morning rather than at night, and watch life go by. Pleased to note that Pif is still one of the fastest cafes around the area to have their outdoor seating ready for customers, even during the cold weather. Great mint tea available here, which is always nice. Staff are prompt and friendly, and inside is well ventilated should you be a non-smoker, and unable to find space on the terrace. Plenty of local and craft beers, and open late.QC‑2, Preradovićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 487 29 59. Open Mon - Thu 07:00 - 01:00, Fri - Sat 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 01:00. P­J­B Retro Café Bar The works of Serbian realist Domanović balance playfully with those of Dante under the bar while ‘bugger off’ serves in place of a ‘closed’ sign. Witty and gritty, Retro feel permeates the cushiony window seats and group tables in this intimate space subtlely but impressively furnished with repurposed bureaus, drawers and doodads of all kinds.QH‑4, Savska cesta 180, tel. (+385-1) 550 99 59/(+385-) 099 324 00 01, [email protected], retro-nightcaffe.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Thu 08:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 04:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. P­N­B­X­W Swanky Monkey Garden You don’t have to go too far to find a terrace or courtyard cafe in Zagreb, but Swanky’s Monkey Garden is a great addition and one well worth visiting at least once. The walls of the main bar are papered with replicas of newspapers and documentation dating back to the building’s previous life as a factory, while outside there’s a raised terrace which sits neatly in front a well tended vegetable garden and orchard. QB‑2, Ilica 50, tel. (+385-1) 400 42 48, [email protected]. Open 10:00 - 24:00. U Dvorištu Best described as one of Zagreb’s best kept secrets this chilled and laid back venue is somewhere to go to just get away from it all, tucked away from all the action on the street. Direct trade café this place has wifi, a great beer selection, and more than a few blends of tea to assist in the process of relaxation. Perhaps best avoided if you’re not too fond of the feline persuasion, but certainly a place that’s all too happy to see, and accommodate, cyclists (an oddity for a city as large as Zagreb).QB‑3, Jurja Žerjavića 7/2, [email protected]. Open 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. P­6­N­G­B­X­W

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Zagreb Nightlife Pulse Velvet This corner cafe would not be out of place in the more stylish parts of London or Paris, and it’s all too easy to fall in love with the gorgeous ‘library’ section and lose track of your day’s plans. A nice selection of teas, and they make their own cakes as well. Outdoor terracing, but the indoor seating is what caught our eye. Decadent, in a good way. Pricey, but no more so than other such spots in the area.QB‑2, Dežmanova 9, tel. (+385-1) 484 67 43, [email protected], www.velvet.hr. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. P­J­A­6­G­B­W

Cakes Mak Na Konac The search for the best chocolate cake in all of Zagreb is, for now, at an end. Mak na Konac, with almost two decades of experience in the kitchen, provides some interesting twists on what is the norm in local pastries, or pastries from anywhere for that matter. Bepsoke orders are possible, and Mak na Konac can cater to all tastes, and needs: gluten free, diabetic friendly, dairy free, etc.QE‑2, Dukljaninova 1, tel. (+385-1) 461 66 54, [email protected], www. maknakonac.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A Orijent There are people we know who practically orgasm when they talk about this little place. The reason? Everything is home-made from fresh ingredients. The šlag in most other places is made from packet mix. Here it’s fresh cream, and the same stuff goes in the ice cream. Nice old-skool vibe. QJ‑2, Maksimirska 34, tel. (+385-1) 231 53 23, orijent@ ymail.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. P­N­G­W The Cookie Factory Warning: The Cookie Factory may be habit-forming! Already hooked on chocolate chunk cookies, ice cream sandwiches and rocky road brownies? Wanna be? This sweetshop cafe in the heart of the city center will satisfy any craving and possibly create some new ones! Generously portioned classic American sweets are served in a cheery setting only made more enticing with beverages like fruit smoothies and coke floats. The aroma of “just like Grandma used to make” is complimentary.QC‑1, Tkalčićeva 21, tel. (+385-) 099 494 94 00, [email protected], www.cookiefactory.hr. Open 09:00 - 23:00. P­J­A­G­B­W Torte i to Lying low in the back of Centar Kaptol’s 2nd floor, this café offers a selection of the most deliriously delectable sweets available in Zagreb as well as some of the most helpful staff in terms of choosing what to eat! With its classic living room style interior and additional seating outside, this locale is a winner. I suggest the carrot cheese cake! QC‑1, Nova Ves 11, Centar Kaptol, tel. (+385-) 099 343 41 11, [email protected], www.torte-i-to.hr. Open 08:00 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. P­N­G­B­W zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Sirup - Photo by Goran Perešin - Goxmag

Insider tips by locals We asked locals - who live or work in Zagreb - to give us a few tips on how to enrich your stay in this city and make it that bit more interesting.

Adnan Mehmedović - Medo Organizer of the R’n’B Confusion program

ZIYP: What’s the best way to get to know the city and meet people? Adnan: Begin at one of the city’s legendary urban bars; like, RockStarr, Alcatraz, PIF or Swanky. People are usually openminded and you’re likely to meet lots of cool people in one night who’ll take you out with them or recommend good places to go. ZIYP: According to you, where’s the best place to listen to the local music scene (bands, DJ’s, solo artists)? Adnan: Sax!, Kset, and Tvornica when they have concerts announced in advance. At bars like Mojo, Buzz or Tesla Power House during the week you can get to know small up-andcoming bands that hone their craft on the small stage.

ZIYP: Where’s your favourite place for nightlife during the week and on the weekends? Adnan: During the week: Pivana, Dežman Bar on Mondays and Tuesdays, Tesla Power House and Basta on Wednesdays, Mojo bar and Melin on Thursdays. On the weekends: Warm up at Tesla Power House, Peper - after warm up. Johann Franck or Opera, particularly when there’s RnB Confusion at those clubs, but they are generally excellent places for going out. Katran - when there’s a special program or performance.

ZIYP: Where’s the best place to eat after a night out? Adnan: Kremenko Grill on Savska street before the turnaround, for sure! They have really high quality meat grilled on wood charcoal.

ZIYP: According to you, where’s the best place in Zagreb to relax? Adnan: Swanky Monkey Garden on Sundays when the weather’s nice and when there’s the Blok Blok courtyard hip-hop BBQ going on. An afternoon chill-session with good music, good people, burgers and beer. There are always cool DJs spinning, but always to kick-start the Sunday hangout is the legendary Croatian rapper, Bizzo Bodega. An evening of live jazz at Melin while drinking a nice glass of wine is also a good vibe.

ZIYP: Where’s your favourite place for nightlife during the week and on the weekends? Goran: My favourite place to go during the week is for sure Funk Club on Tkalčićeva. There, in the middle of the week you can hear very interesting and respected names in the local (underground) electronic scene. Synergy DJs, good music, the people and the ambiance create such an indescribable atmosphere that it’s simply not possible to be unimpressed. That being said, I’d also mention a new place in town, and that’s Toster at Petrinjska street. Besides being able to hear excellent electronic music supported

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Goran Marinković One of the founders of UES Magazine

Spring 2016 35

Zagreb NightlifePulse

Dave Harvey - Sirup Archives

Zagreb Nightlife Pulse by the UES Magazine team and serving the respected members of the local scene, they offer programs with specific bands as well as classic RnB and Hip-Hop sounds. The place has a relaxed atmosphere decorated in a retro street art style. And as the name Toster suggests, inside you can enjoy some tastily prepared toasted sandwiches at good prices. My favourite places for a night out on the weekend, I’d have to single out Sirup, Masters, Boogaloo and Das Haus. Basically they’re underground venues that cultivate underground-style electronic music. Most of the very best ensembles from the local scene organize their own electronic music events, along with various artists and worldfamous names, at these venues. Each one of these clubs offers something unique and special that everyone should experience for themselves in person! ZIYP: According to you, where’s the best place in Zagreb to relax? Goran: For me the best places to relax in Zagreb are those connected to culture or surrounded by nature; such as, Zrinjevac, Gornji grad, Maksimir, Jarun, Bundek. When most of your time during the week and even the weekends is spent inside bars and clubs listening to good music, a strong and indescribable wish to relax in nature, on a bench or in a field, develops inside you. We should be lucky that Zagreb has such places.

RNB Confusion Archives

KLUB. Archives Sirup - Photo by Goran Perešin - Goxmag

ZIYP: What’s the best way to get to know the city and meet people? Goran: The best way to get to know the city and meet people is if you spend time with the people who live life in this city to the fullest. And by that I mean the various groups and people who offer the kinds of experiences to get to know the city; such as, Đir po Zagrebu or via private arrangements. In a relaxed and informal way, those groups will conjure up the best that this wonderful city has to offer; whether it be interesting places to go out, cultural places, hidden corners in the centre of the city, or even just a place on a park bench. If you need help you can call us at UES Magazine and we’ll be glad to direct you or connect you to different people. ZIYP: According to you, where’s the best place to listen to the local music scene (bands, DJ’s, solo artists)? Goran: Part of my answer to this question you can find in the answer to the first question you asked me; the second part I’ll tell you now. The places that offer chances to listen to the local music scene (bands, DJs, solo artists), along with the places I’ve already mentioned, would definitely be: Vintage Industrial Bar, Tvornica Kulture, Melin Cafe on Tkalčićeva, Vinyl Bar and Močvara. That’s all I can remember at the moment, so I apologize if I’ve left out some other interesting places. ZIYP: Where’s the best place to eat after a night out? Goran: Zagreb has a few really good places to eat after a night out, depending on which part of the city you find yourself in. The place that I prefer is actually really close

36 Zagreb In Your Pocket

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Frajle - Tesla Power House Archives

to where I live, since that’s always where I end up, and it’s open 24 hours a day. And that is the Dubravica bakery at the main bus station. The ladies that work there are always smiling and having fun, there’s lots of food to choose from, but the freshly baked burek and pizza are my favourite. I’d like to send a quick shout-out to the pizza chef!

Vedran Meniga Owner of the Positive Rhythm and PDV Records ZIYP: Where’s your favourite place for nightlife during the week and on the weekends? Vedran: I’m one of those people who mix work with pleasure; I don’t go looking for a good time, I create my own fun. For me, the program itself holds more weight than the actual venue, as I regularly visit more and more places that do different things such as concerts and parties. I give particular priority to the places that offer quality programs during the week, especially considering that they receive fewer clientele and therefore have a lower return on investment. ZIYP: According to you, where’s the best place in Zagreb to relax? Vedran: Shortly, “Pločnik”, on the corner of Slovenska and Međimurska streets, near the western train station. ZIYP: What’s the best way to get to know the city and meet people? Vedran: Don’t stay home. Go out. ZIYP: According to you, where’s the best place to listen to the local music scene (bands, DJ’s, solo artists)? Vedran: In the places that offer that kind of thing in their programs; especially at the clubs that offer the chance to present new and fresh talent. And which promote more programs and higher production standards; basically where original local music is performed. facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

ZIYP: Where’s the best place to eat after a night out? Vedran: Zagreb is definitely lagging behind other large European cities when it comes to what they have to offer. I think that a warm burek at one of the better bakeries is still the best option.

Vibor Hulenić One of the founders of the Amnesia program ZIYP: Where’s your favourite place for nightlife during the week and on the weekends? Vibor: Johann Franck and Peper. Johann is nice because of its modern European styling and superior design. But for dancing my favourite place has still got to be Peper. ZIYP: According to you, where’s the best place in Zagreb to relax? Vibor: The three that share first place are definitely, Swanky, Toster and A Most Unusual Garden. ZIYP: What’s the best way to get to know the city and meet people? Vibor: During the summer there’s Wayoudo and Zagreb Pub Crawls (Đir po Zagrebu). And throughout the year there’s Moovanje and Nezaobilazno, which are free tours that are getting more and more popular among the hostels. ZIYP: According to you, where’s the best place to listen to the local music scene (bands, DJ’s, solo artists)? Vibor: Along with all the places I’ve mentioned above, I would add Klub Klub, Sax! and Funk. ZIYP: Where’s the best place to eat after a night out? Vibor: By far the best place is the cult classic, Pingvin on Teslina street.

www.inyourpocket.com Spring 2016 37

Nightlife

Nightlife

RNB Confusion Archives

RNB Confusion Archives

RNB Confusion Archives

Amnesia Archives

clubbing zagreb - life & soul High on demand, here you can find the latest information about nightlife in the Croatian capital which is becoming the ‘must visit’ category in terms of rankings. From jazz, funk and alternative music, through to new and old R&B, hip hop to edgier electro beats, we present to you an entire range of what that is ‘smoking hot’ in the Zagreb’s nightlife scene. It has to be said that the city is full of small sized nightclubs and bars made for clubbing and warm-up parties, so there is no excuse to stay in as its time to face the music; ladies get the heels on, gents get the gel and head into town for a party all-round. From the urban and mainstream scene we have Adnan Mehmedović - Medo (R’n’B Confusion), Vibor Hulenić (Amnesia) and Dinko Šimunović aka DJ Chill from the (Super Super Club). Although all three are R&B and hip hop orientated, they each have their own groove and have their own style with Medo being an organiser of the R’n’B Confusion program which has been on the list of all major nightclubs for 14 years now, he occasionally makes appearances in neighbouring countries also. Vibor and his team (The Great Five) joined the scene in 2013 with their Amnesia program which puts emphasis on thematic R&B and hip hop parties; these are also held in a different club each time with the aim of creating new stories and new vibes each time, as they say ‘variety is the spice of life’. 38 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Dinko, aka DJ Chill is a great lover of hip hop and the urban scene and he conveys to the public the best of the music scene through various guests and music programs. Through discussion and personal experience, we would like to single out places such as Super Super, Museum and the Shock Show Industry; all of which are located within the same building, namely the former Katran Factory (J-3), with each maintaining a different program so that all guests, patrons and punters can find something they like from the urban scene. In terms of the city centre, several new and trendy hit places have opened up such as Opera, Johann Franck (C-2) and the Peper (C-2) nightclubs. Naturally, the heart of the city is full of brewing bars that are open until 02:00 with a variety of programs and a wide range on offer, check out Tesla Power House (B-2), Vinyl and Supercaffe (C-2). By far the most wanted and best regarded music at the moment is in the electronic and underground music scene. The hype is huge, there’s a real buzz in the air and the intensity is there. From light and sexy, fast and commercial, to the most powerful bass sound. The new generation of the electronic scene is led by a team consisting of Goran Marinković and Bruno Vojvodić (UES Magazine), Mark Ješovnik aka Yesh (Jabba Ton, Chew the Fat) and the man himself Vedran Meniga (Pozitivan Ritam, PDV Records). The guys from UES Magazine work hard to inform and educate the public about news from the world of electronic music as well as all the interesting things in the field of technology and urban culture. Recently they started a new project called UES Booth at the Toaster Bar (C-2) which enables zagreb.inyourpocket.com

some old and new acts to present their material to a wider audience and gets them to mutually exchange experiences and ideas, ultimately helping build a pleasant companionship. Marko aka Yesh is a DJ with over 10 years’ experience on the local front and has played at various festivals (Hideout, Outlook, and Terraneo…) and gigs across Croatia and this region. With time, he had gone into production and started the JabbaTon and Chew the Fat programs which are held at different venues each time, plus he is also a host on Yammat FM Radio, therefore his involvement and knowledge of the scene is unquestionable. Vedran, who is known in the scene as MMMeniga, is a member of the punk generation from the end of the 80s and plays music exclusively on vinyl records, based on dubstep in combination with bass and techno. In addition to playing music, he is the organiser of the Outlook, Dimensions and Seasplash festivals, the owner of the production company PDV Records, and runs the project Pločnik where he raises awareness of the underground scene. For those who love the sound of electronic beats, Sirup (A-4) is a sure place to go, along with KSET (B-4), Medika (A-3), Masters (L-2) and Das Haus. For weekly and warm up options, you can choose the Funk Club (C-1) which has a program running from Wednesday to Saturday. When it comes to the alternative and jazz scenes, we were fortunate enough or should we say honoured in being able to hang out with two great musical experts in Andrej Jakuš and Ivan Kapec. Both are members of the band TrianguliZona, referring to three different but interrelated dimensions - image, sound and time. With their unusual, magical and innovative approach, they form a genre that is hard to resist. In addition to TrianguliZona which has been in existence for 10 years now, Andrej has played in numerous other bands such as Genaro Flores, Soul Fingers, Con Fusion, Mayales, Mangroove, Chui, Detour, Bučersi and is an active studio and live musician. He has produced two excellent compilations of the Croatian electro scene: Dancing B(e)ar Lounge 1 & 2, and Klape Remixed (Croatian traditional klapa remixed by Croatian and foreign producers). The electronics on trumpet is accompanied by a world class sound and LIVE ACT performances by DJs or session musicians; therefore he is a very versatile musician who is open to an entire spectrum of musical styles. Guitarist and composer Kapec has been actively involved in the jazz and electronic music since the 90’s. He has played in a number of Croatian jazz ensembles and founded his own trio with whom he recorded two albums, Lancun and Bava. He is also the founder of the multimedia group TrianguliZona with whom he has performed at many festivals at home and abroad. He leads the space jazz band Capisconne, and together with DJ Labosh is the author of the project Loop Chamber Music. But that’s not all, Kapec often joins Borko Rupen in an electro-acoustic improvised duo they call Sonic Diptych. London label Dubmission included three of Kapec’s electronic songs in the Next Dubmission compilation. Currently, he runs electro-jazz sessions called Sunrise Sessions as a new platform for the development of a more creative and improvised music scene in Croatia. facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Without doubt, the alternative scene is far more approachable and accessible at clubs and bars with live music and DJs. For rock, metal, funk and stronger rhythmic tunes, there is a fine range with Močvara, Vintage Industrial Bar (I-4), Tvornica Kulture (E-3) and Jabuka (I-2). When it comes to jazz and live sets, definitely look for Jiggy Bar (A-4), Booze & Blues (C-1), Sax! (D-2), KSET(B-4), SC, MM Centar (B4), Bacchus (C-3), Melin (C-1), Jazzilicious (J-3) or Jazz cafe Forum in Sesvete, all of which will have you zipping and zapping! For many of us music is a way of life and Zagreb strikes the right note whether it is funk, punk, rock, pop, jazz, soul, R&B, hip hop, house, techno or something completely different. The city certainly has its bases covered and rest assured that you will have a great time listening to the best of the best from the local and international music scene.

Alternative AKC Medika Located in a former pharmaceuticals factory tucked behind the Westin hotel, Medika is basically an anarchists’ squat that was granted official status by a city administration eager to pucker up to Zagreb’s alternative community. A regular menu of punk, ska and jazz gigs plus raucous DJ-driven club nights attract a healthy cross-section of hedonisticallyinclined youth - so you don’t need either dreadlocks or a dog on a rope to fit in. Check out their website to see what’s going on.QA‑3, Pierottijeva 11, tel. (+385-1) 619 72 23, [email protected], www.attack.hr. Open Fri, Sat 22:00 - 04:00 and on request. J­6­N­B­X­W Kset On the cutting edge of all things cool, Kset is gaining a reputation for some especially cool live shows that include flawless jazz and DJ wizardry. The mood lighting is the icing on the cake. Locals are becoming very passionate about their worship of this place.QB‑4, Unska 3, tel. (+385-1) 612 97 58, [email protected], www.kset.org. Open 20:00 - 24:00, Fri 21:00 - 01:00, Sat 22:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. E­G­W Močvara This former factory down by the river Sava is not only one of Zagreb’s premier gig and clubbing venues but also something of an offbeat cultural centre, with something going on most nights of the week - film nights, theatre performances, literary events and art happenings included. Artist Igor Hofbauer’s woozy comic-strip décor in the bar area is reason enough to call in. As a reminder, the club opens only for organized concerts or special events, so it’s best to keep track via the web.QI‑3, Trnjanski nasip bb, tel. (+385-1) 615 96 67, [email protected], www.mochvara.hr. Open for organized concerts and special events, so it’s best to keep track via the web or Facebook page. P­T­6­U­ L­E­N­G­B­X­W

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Nightlife Spunk Great tunes spin about the fifties funk fusion atmosphere of this starry-skied club café. The indie-chill and alternative laden line up offers an inviting feast of aural delights. With a performance selection in constant evolution, music fans of all inclinations are invited to discover each evening what “The Space” will become.QI‑3, Hrvatske bratske za‑ jednice 4, tel. (+385-1) 615 15 28, spunk.zagreb@gmail. com. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri 07:00 - 04:00, Sat 12:00 04:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00. P­T­J­6­E­N­B­X­W

Bars Booze&Blues A very welcome addition to an already busy area, Booze & Blues is a part of New Orleans right here in Zagreb. Every spirit you’d likely see on Bourbon Street, open late, and live music Thursday, Friday, and Saturdays. There’s a Heineken tap made from a functional saxophone which is worth a visit alone.QC‑1, Tkalčićeva 84, tel. (+385-1) 483 77 65, [email protected], www.booze-andblues.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. P­T­J­A­6­E­B­X­W Corner bar Situated in the Ban Centar, urban meets Zen in this tranquil yet modern atmosphere. An outdoor garden terrace creates an extremely peaceful and relaxing setting amongst the contemporary and chic decor, a top escape from the hustle and bustle of the city. Not just a great spot to sip your morning coffee in peace, but also for a fun night out on the town with friends. They offer a large selection of wines, champagne by the glass, cognac, coffee and tea, along with sandwiches, cakes, cocktails, smoothies, natural juices, cigars and whiskey. There’s something to suit everyone’s taste! Breakfast is served from 08:00 - 12:00 where one can enjoy 100% Arabica Lavazza Kafa Forest Coffee selected from natural plantations in Ethiopia. In addition, they host various musical evenings with multimedia equipment and projectors available for presentations. QC‑2, Ulica Augusta Cesarca 4 (Next to Trg bana Josipa Jelačića), tel. (+385-1) 484 53 93, [email protected]. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 11:00. P­T­J­A­6­U­E­G­B­X­W UES Mag Archives

Nightlife Jiggy bar Jiggy almost feels as if you’re entering some sort of WWII shelter, but it’s very cosy within and very welcoming. The venue is split so as to allow patrons to enjoy a quiet-ish beer, or revel in whatever live music is playing. Funk, alt rock, etc., just a few of the genres on offer, and this reviewer has already been back more than a few times.QA‑4, Ivana Broza 48, tel. (+385-1) 366 83 60, [email protected], www.jiggybar.hr. Open 08:00 01:00, Fri 08:00 - 04:00, Sat 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. P­T ­J ­A ­6 ­U ­E ­B ­X ­W Kino Klub Grič There’s nothing not to love about this keen café cinema club. Relax with a coffee or cocktail surrounded by their cool-not-kitshe movie décor in the cozy lounge-loft, main floor or terrace. On weekends, the underground nightclub features live DJs of all irresitably dancable genres. With the reopening of the classic theatre’s cinema space, this hot-spot just off the main square, is a must-see.QC‑2, Jurišićeva 6, tel. (+385-) 098 40 03 06, [email protected], www.artkinogric.hr. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 08:30 - 23:00. T­J ­6 ­N ­B­ X­W Mojo bar, wine rakija & co. Enjoy a drink in the sunshine on the café terrace, overlooking the fountain, on Trg hrvatskih velikana, or enter the underground bar and move into a smoky urban style ambiance. Brick walls, adorned with black-andwhite pictures, create a mellow and calming atmosphere. A very large selection of wines and rakijas are offered, which can be enjoyed at the live music nights, featuring klapas on Mondays, rock cover bands on Tuesdays, jazz bands on Wednesdays and DJs on the weekends.QD‑2, Martićeva ulica 5, tel. (+385-) 091 526 67 33, [email protected]. Open 07:00 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. P­T ­A ­6 ­E ­B ­X ­W Sedmica This clandestine affair of a café/bar is a popular hangout for Zagreb’s young literati. And we can see why: the number seven’s dark, enigmatic atmosphere is certain to stir a literary bone in your body, too.QA‑2, Kačićeva 7a, tel. (+385-1) 484 66 89, info@caffebar-sedmica. com, www.caffebar-sedmica.com/. Open Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 17:00 - 01:00. P­T ­J ­A ­6 ­B ­X ­W Tesla Power House Decked in modernity (at first glance), this central location features a set of open decks for regular DJ sets as well as copious Tesla related decorations. Live music, funk rock… Everything goes at this Zagreb dive bar. Ideally located for those waiting for events in nearby Kino Europa or on Trg.QB‑2, Varšavska 4, tel. (+385) 091 330 49 88, [email protected]. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. P­T ­J ­6 ­E­ B­X ­W

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Vintage Industrial Bar This American-like, rock and roll-feel bar has more than just a few drinks to offer. Grab a beer on tap with some friends and delight in a wide variety of concerts, dance performances, theater acts, film screenings or even literary meetings. The brick walls, occasionally splashed with graffiti and black and white photography, create the perfect environment to wind-down. And best of all, you don’t need to worry about parking because the front entrance is a spacious parking lot.QI‑4, Savska cesta 160, tel. (+385-1) 619 17 15/(+385-) 098 34 00 20, info@ vintageindustrial-bar.com, www.vintageindustrial-bar. com. Open 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 -05:00, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. P­T­6­E­B­X­W

Clubs Johann Franck If a country’s largest coffee company opens a venue, it must be reasonable to assume that you’re going to be happy with what’s on offer. There’s a reason why chains like Starbucks don’t see Croatia as a viable market, even though seemingly all anyone does here is drink coffee and watch the world go by. More terrace space than you can shake a stick at, and a great location at the corner of Zagreb’s main square. An expansive food menu, with daily specials posted on site and on social media. Once the sun has set, however, this venue stops being a convenient place for tea, and becomes a vibrant clubbing spot. facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Themed nights are a frequent affair, with the venue recently hosting the Batman vs Superman premiere party. QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 9, tel. (+385-) 091 783 81 53, [email protected], www.johannfranck. hr. Open Mon - Thu, Sun 21:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 04:00. JXB­W Klub. Created as part of the Subcultural Center in Zagreb, Klub. is a small and simple arched brick-walled space located underground. It is accessible through the Joe Strummer Square located in the courtyard of the complex shared by the Beertija Club. Come check out a wide variety of bands to suit any musical taste, from rock ‘n’ roll and indie to electronic and punk.QD‑3, Pavla Hatza 14-16, zvone.pusic@ gmail.com, www.subkulturnicentar.com.hr. Open Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. N­X­W Peper A familiar name in Zagreb’s nightlife, but now in a new location. Peper Ilica 5, formerly Pepermint, still continues to provide you with great music and great drink deals. Funk, disco, pop, rockabilly, and soul. And soul is what this venue has in abundance. Open all week round, it’s always worth calling in to see what’s on that night. Entry is free up until 22:00 Wednesday and Thursday, and until 23:00 at the weekend. We’ll see you there!QC‑2, Ilica 5, tel. (+385-) 091 393 99 38, [email protected], www.pepermintzagreb.com. Open Wed, Thu 22:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00. P­J­A­G­X­W Spring 2016 41

Nightlife

Sightseeing Sirup Sirup moved to the Zagrebački Paromlin, a historic industrial building from the beginning of the 20th century, and is now situated behind the main train station. At night, the building gives off an abandoned and eerie feel and is perfect for thrill seekers and fans of a Jack the Ripper 19th century London atmosphere. The music is so intense that you’ll feel the notes vibrating through your chest. Open only on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights!QJ‑3, Koturaška cesta 1, [email protected], www.sirupclub.com. Open Fri, Sat 00:00 - 08:00.

Jazz

Tesla Power House Archives

Bacchus Jazz Bar Arrive early for a table close to the stage in the vaulted grotto, but the music is still audible if you’re seated out in the courtyard on a step or stone wall, in an alcove or niche, or under a fig tree. The solitary can read one of the books from the shelves under the bar.QC‑3, Trg kralja Tomislava 16, tel. (+385-) 098 32 28 04, [email protected]. Open 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. T­J­6­N­B­X­W Melin Tucked away just off of one of Zagreb’s most famous streets, Tkalčićeva, Melin functions as a café by day and club by night offering live jazz performances on Friday and Saturday evenings. Decorated in a retro-chic style with old fashioned TV sets used as makeshift tables, the cozy outdoor patio is surrounded by trees and greenery and adorned with old-time radios. Take a seat at one of the mismatched, but stylish colourful chairs and tables and enjoy a drink in this artsy atmosphere.QC‑1, Kožarska 19, tel. (+385-1) 488 02 98, [email protected], www.melin. hr. Open 10:00 - 02:00. T­J­A­6­E­B­X­W

Chui - Antun Tony Zupanac

Sax! This is the place to take in some live music, for it plays here every night and is an especially delicious and wide array of styles. Blues, jazz, rock, pop and much more are all featured, and the crowd tends to be especially happy for their chance to take the night of fun in. Admission varies depending on the show - this place is a can’t miss.QD‑3, Palmotićeva 22, tel. (+385-1) 487 28 36, [email protected], www.sax-zg.hr. Open 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. N­G­W Shock Show Industry - D Katran - Trim kabinet 5reković Located in an alleyway in Zagreb’s business district, this grungy bar offers a variety of special events, including live concerts, film and dance nights. Shock Show Industry, formerly Tvornica Katran, is still nicknamed, ‘Katran,’ by locals. It’s not just a regular club, but part of a cultural association from Bjelovar, which was founded in 1972, with a branch located in Zagreb. To attend an event, don’t forget to make a reservation ahead of time.QJ‑3, Radnička cesta 27 (door No 17, 2nd floor left), tel. (+385-) 095 418 83 85, [email protected], www.ssi.com.hr. Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00. J­6­E­N­X­W 42 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Pubs Bikers Beer Factory Located on Savska Street next to the restaurant Mex Cantina and in a backyard encircled with garages and a big motorcycle parking lot. High tables, good staff, the interior is full wood, bricks and lights with excerpts from any bikers’ world (helmets, exhaust pipes etc). Jukebox and good choice of foreign beer. Sounds like a ZZ Top clip!QI‑4, Savska 150, tel. (+385-) 099 848 56 63, [email protected], www.bikersbeerfactory.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. P­T­6­E­N­B­X­W Sheridan’s Pub Croatia doesn’t really do pubs. Cafes and bistros abound, but here you get to experience a little bit of the Emerald Isle for yourself. This is Croatia’s only true Irish pub, run as it is by a man from Offaly. You would not be short something to do of an evening were to drop in, with traditional Irish music regularly featured, as well as the ubiquitous pub quiz and open mic sessions. They’re also the only licenced premises in Zagreb running a loyalty scheme, and if you’re fond of your pint of plain then that’s a good thing.QI‑3, Savska 36, tel. (+385-) 095 868 85 53, [email protected]. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 15:00 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. P­T­6­N­B­X­W zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Zagreb 4U, Photo by Sanjin Kaštelan (TZGZ Archives)

Essential Zagreb Ban Josip Jelačić Square (Trg bana Josipa Jelačića) This Austro-Hungarian styled square is the true centre of the city. There’s a phenomenal variety of cafés, shopping, feeding and people watching everywhere. It was named after the impressive sculpture within its domain, that of Count Jelačić, his deadly steed, and a sword so pointy and sharp that it could poke your eye out. Our count’s image has inspired a number of political outbursts: in 1947 it was dismantled and chucked into a corner somewhere because leaders found it overly representative of nationalism in the country. The year 1990 brought it back into its current place, this time leaders believing it perfectly nationalistic.QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. Maksimir Park & the City Zoo (Maksimirski park i Zoološki vrt) A perfect half-day outing for love birds, families, the fourlegged, this place will revitalise a tired soul. Leaves, lakes, grasses and dirt are all a part of the equation as well as clouds, a sky and periodically the very sun! Blaring car engines have been removed from this place and as such it’s a great escape. The 18 hectares of lush greenery and forest was opened to the public in 1794 and was the first of its kind in this part of Europe. An added bonus, the city zoo is housed within it. Catch tram N°11 or 12 from Trg bana Josipa Jelačića east (Dubec) to the Bukovačka stop. The entrance to Maksimir park is on the north side of the street. QK‑1/2, Maksimirski perivoj bb, www.zgzoo.com. Zoo is open 09:00 - 19:00 (until April 24th), 09:00 - 20:00 (April - September), ticket office 09:00 - 18:00 (until April 24th), 09:00 - 18:30 (April - September). Admission 15 - 20kn. Mirogoj Cemetery Croats in the capital city don’t mess around with the homage they pay to their lost loved ones. A trip to Mirogoj, Zagreb’s main cemetery, confirms this immediately. Situated on the slopes of the Medvednica mountain, it is one of the facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

most beautiful cemeteries in Europe. Lime-green cupolas top the wall that surrounds the memorial park. Mirogoj is not only a burial place but also a beautiful park and open art gallery. Not far from the present mortuary, in the period between 1852 and 1895 there stood the summer house of the Illyrian leader, Ljudevit Gaj. After his death the municipality bought the complete estate and constructed the central Zagreb cemetery upon it. The well-known architect Herman Bollé designed the shape of the cemetery, applying a monumental composition of arcades, pavilions and domes, intermingled with rich vegetation, and adding a gallery of sculptures by Croatian sculptors. Getting There Bus N°106 from the Cathedral to Mirogoj takes 15min and costs 10kn. You can also take tram N°14 from the main square heading east (to Mihaljevac) and get out at the fourth stop (Gupčeva zvijezda).QJ‑1, Mirogoj bb. St Mark’s Church (Crkva sv. Marka) The spectrum of colours displayed on the roof beautifully depicts the Croatian, Dalmatian and Slavonian coats-ofarms and also the Zagreb city emblem and provides for quite a lasting visual. Due to various natural disasters it has received a ton of reconstruction and not a whole lot remains of the original 14th century building. Inside, highlights include two works by Ivan Meštrović, Croatia’s most famous sculptor, and frescoes by artist Jozo Kljaković. QC‑1, Trg svetog Marka 5, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 11. Stone Gate (Kamenita vrata) This archway was one of the four original entries into the walled Gornji grad of the feudal period. In 1731 a terrible fire destroyed much of the town, and legend has it that a vision of the Virgin Mary could be seen in the burnt ash that remained in this entry. It was reconstructed in 1760 and hasn’t been touched since. Today you’ll find ladies praying in the church pews, black-soot ceilings and candles glowing as a testament to a people and their faith. QC‑1, Kamenita bb.

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Sightseeing zagreb’s grič cannon firer If you find yourself in the Upper Town a little before noon, do not be surprised when you see people with fingers in their ears as they begin the countdown; ten, nine, eight, seven, six... Then BOOM! Smoke rises, pigeons flock for shelter, people clap and you’re wondering if this is madness or reality. Fear not, it’s real and has been every single day for 139 years. It is the Grič Cannon, first fired in 1877 and was used as a sign for the bell-ringers of the city’s churches to head off and do their job. Alem Tutundžić has had this duty for eight years and is the fifth person to carry out the job since it first began; his predecessor did it for thirty-five years. The traditional gun powder method is still used and he often wears a light blue uniform as worn by the first ever Zagreb cannon-firer.

Sightseeing the next 21 years it’s heavily damaged in various sieges by the Tatars; 1624 - a series of sweeping fires practically destroys it; 1645 - another wave of fires picks up where the last left off. It’s reconstructed; 1880 - sustains serious damage during an earthquake. A 12-year restoration takes place, at which time the neo-Gothic bell towers are raised skyward; 1990 - exterior renovations set in motion to battle against the effects of time. Mass: 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 18:00, Sunday 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 10:00, 11:30, 18:00.QC‑1, Kaptol 31, tel. (+385-1) 481 47 27. Open 10:00 -17:00, Sun 13:00 - 17:00. Tkalčićeva (Tkalčićeva street) You mustn’t miss this street, for it is zoo-like, exhibiting humans in full chill mode. It simultaneously encourages you to wander, sit, sip, dance, chat, primp, preen, put out the vibe, read, write or sleep. You’ll be amazed by the sheer number of people wandering around here late into the evening. It provides a unique visual for a city that you’re starting to understand is very unique too!QC‑1, Tkalčićeva.

Museums

Alem Tutundžić - Photo by Višnja Arambašić

Photo by Višnja Arambašić

The Cathedral of Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Katedrala Marijina Uznesenja) A wonder of neo-Gothic artistry, the impressive and sharp looking towers stand out from nearly anywhere you are in the entire city. Though it’s in an evidently permanent state of reconstruction, it’s undeniably overwhelming and will push you to ponder those larger things we can see you’ve been avoiding. Go ahead and wander inside but don’t forget to turn the mobile off. A brief history: 1093 - founded; 1242 - the initial Romanesque construction is finished. In 44 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Archaeological Museum in Zagreb (Arheološki muzej u Zagrebu) Arty and ambient, the offering at this place is brilliantly enhanced by moody sounds and lighting. Philosophical musings often accompany explanations of the materials, moving you to wonder what the heck you’re doing on this earth.QC‑2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, tel. (+385-1) 487 30 00, [email protected], www.amz.hr. Open 10:00 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 20kn. Arts and Crafts Museum (Muzej za umjetnost i obrt) This museum focuses on the lifestyle of the pampered aristocracy here through the ages. Expect to see amazing furniture, artwork, dinnerware and much more. Very ornate and curious. Mobile guides in foreign languages are available. People with special needs also have guides. These services do not cost extra.QB‑3, Trg maršala Tita 10, tel. (+385-1) 488 21 11, [email protected], www.muo.hr. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Ad‑ mission 20 - 30kn. U Contemporary Art Museum (Muzej suvremene umjetnosti) Founded in 1954, the museum has relocated to a impressive building as you pass the Sava River. The collection here allows for the avant-garde to speak for itself with an excellent range of paintings, sculpture, video art and photography. Mobile guides in foreign languages available as well as free Wi-Fi connection.QJ‑4, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1) 605 27 00, [email protected], www.msu.hr. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Tick‑ ets 15 - 30kn. U zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski muzej) High fashion collides with odd impracticality to provide a unique look at the people of this country through the ages. Cool, curious and wacky all at the same time. Those who pre-book and request guides for individuals and groups in English will cost 150kn per tour.QB‑3, Trg Mažuranića 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 62 20, [email protected], www.emz.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 15kn. U

botaNICAL GARDEN 01.04 FRIDAY - 01.11 TUESDAY PROMENADE CONCERTS The city’s natural oasis reopens in spring after the long winter hibernation period where it remains closed to the public, and it opens in style. Amidst the 10,000 different species of plants, the ponds, artifical hills and bridges, concerts on Thursdays at 17:30 will be a major attraction with artists of all kinds booked to perform in what will be a true getaway from the hussle and bussle of the city. QB‑3, Trg Marka Marulića 9a, tel. (+385-1) 489 80 60, www.hirc.botanic.hr. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Mon, Tue 09:00 - 14:30. Admission free. facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Meštrović Atelier - Ivan Meštrović Museums (Atelijer Meštrović - Muzeji Ivan Meštrović) Meštrović is arguably Croatia’s most famous sculptor and artist. He actually lived with his family and worked in this house from 1920’s until 1942 when he left Croatia. And it is here where he complited many of his art works and monuments including The Indians - a monument in Chicago.QB‑1, Mletačka 8, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 23, mim@ mestrovic.hr, www.mestrovic.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 30kn. Modern Gallery (Moderna galerija) The Modern Gallery is one of the richest of its kind in all of Croatia; rich in culture that is. Located in the centre of Zagreb, in the Vranyczany Palace built during the 1880s, it hosts permanent exhibits featuring more than 750 works of modern and ultra-modern art from painters, sculptors, as well others who work in new media. From the staircase and grand lobby, to the halls on the first and second floors, visitors are presented with a harmonious image of cohabitation of old and new, yesterday and today, as more than two centuries of Croatian modern art await.QC‑3, Andrije Hebranga 1, tel. (+385-1) 604 10 40/(+385-1) 604 10 55, [email protected], www.moderna-galerija.hr. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 30 - 40kn. U Spring 2016 45

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Sightseeing tian/English. Find the solutions to all of the illusions!QB‑2, Ilica 72, tel. (+385-1) 799 96 09, [email protected], www. muzejiluzija.com. Open 09:00 – 22:00. Tickets 25 - 40kn. Family ticket 100kn (includes two adults plus small chil‑ dren).

Photo by Višnja Arambašić

Technical Museum Nikola Tesla (Tehnički muzej nikola tesla) All kinds of technology stuff, from an early propellorpowered snowmobile to full-size models of satellites, space stations and a planetarium where you can view a simulation of the night sky. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized.QA‑4, Savska cesta 18, tel. (+385-1) 484 40 50, [email protected], www.tehnicki-muzej.hr. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15kn. Planetarium admission 15kn. The Croatian Museum of Naive Art (Hrvatski muzej naivne umjetnosti) Originating in Croatia in the middle-20th century, naive art is a highly colourful and often political style of painting. This museum is home to about 80 paintings and the imagery is undeniably fascinating. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized at a charge of 200 - 300kn for every 30 minutes.QC‑1, Sv. Ćirila i Metoda 3, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 11, [email protected], www.hmnu. org. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 20kn.

Trachycarpus Fortunei - Botanical Gardens Archives

Museum of Broken Relationships (Muzej prekinutih veza) Filled with mementos of relationships that have in one way or another - gone wrong! It first started here in Zagreb and has toured around the world stockpiling an amazing array of items and descriptions that may have you thinking twice. Funny yet serious, it won the Kenneth Hudson Award in 2011 for the most innovative European Museum.QC‑1, Sv. Ćirila i Metoda 2, tel. (+385-1) 485 10 21, [email protected], www. brokenships.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 20 - 25kn. Museum of Illusions Test your perception at this amazingly new and unique Museum in this part of Europe where things do not appear as they should, and that is where the fun begins. An adventure of visual and sensual stimuli is broken into two floors; hologram pictures dominate the first floor and hands on displays are on the second floor. It’s open for all ages and in both Croa46 Zagreb In Your Pocket

The Mimara Museum (Muzej Mimara) The city’s mega-museum, this baby is the mother load of artistic treasures with more than 3,750 works in it at all times including sculptures, paintings, crafts and much more. It spans an amazing three millennia and much of it Christian in theme. If you pre-book for a group of 20 people minimum, then a guide is available in English. QB‑3, Trg Franklina Roosewelta 5, tel. (+385-1) 482 81 00, [email protected], www.mimara.hr. Open 10:00 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 30 - 40kn. U Zagreb City Museum (Muzej grada Zagreba) With theme music and sprawling city models, this museum will wow you with its artefacts and displays. It helps elucidate the progression of Zagreb as a city and Croatia as an independent country in the 20th century especially. Much of it is interactive also, which makes it a nice option for an educational experience with the kids. There is also a Braille guide and exhibits adapted for the blind. A truly awesome place! Mobile guides in foreign languages are available in addition to special guides for the blind. QC‑1, Opatička 20, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 61, mgz@mgz. hr, www.mgz.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 30kn. U

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Galleries Art Pavilion (Umjetnički paviljon) A brilliant yellow exterior woos you to it from its place on Trg kralja Tomislava. Inside you’ll find a superb home for all kinds of domestic and international art, great beneficiaries of the generous natural lighting that spills in from the top. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized, these service does not cost extra.QC‑3, Trg kralja Tomislava 22, tel. (+385-1) 484 10 70, [email protected], www.umjetnicki-paviljon.hr. Open 11:00 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 30kn. Lauba – The House for People and Art (Kuća za ljude i umjetnost Lauba) Known as the house for people and art, it has a collection of 500 works created over the last 60 years and includes some of the greatest names in recent Croatian art. Exhibitions change monthly. The perfect setting for art and interaction!QH‑3, Baruna Filipovića 23a, tel. (+385-1) 630 21 15, [email protected], www.lauba.hr. Open 14:00 - 22:00, Sat 11:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Admission 10 25kn. U

Landmarks The Lotrščak Tower and Grič cannon (Kula Lotrščak i Grički top) If in Zagreb you hear the blast of cannon fire, fear not, it simply means it’s midday. This auditory onslaught is not an elaborate pigeon-scaring scheme. According to one legend, a cannon shot from the Lotrščak tower soared over the river Sava and landed in the Turks’ encampment, right on a platter of chicken that was being carried to the Pasha for his lunch. The Pasha decided against attacking a city of fearsome sharpshooters so Zagreb escaped invasion. Since this ace shot was fired at noon, a cannon has been fired at that time from the same tower ever since. Sited in the Upper Town, the tower originally was part of the city’s defences, and later served as a prison. Nowadays, it houses a gallery and an art shop, and the view from the top is well worth the climb.QB/C‑2, Strossmayerovo šetalište 9. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Tomislav Gotovac Footprints Ever wanted to walk in the footsteps of someone famous? Well, with Tomislav Gotovac, Croatian actor, director, and performance artist, you can. On Zagreb’s main street, not a few minutes walk from the main square, you will come across imprints of his feet, placed there in celebration of his piece, “Zagreb, I Love You”, when in 1981 he ran naked down Ilica, kissing the road as he went. It’s unlikely that the locals would look too favourably on a repeat of this famed event by a tourist, but you’ll never know unless you try!QC‑2, Ilica 8.

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Sightseeing tram no 13 Turing back the clock to 1910, a vivid transformation occurred that would leave a major imprint on the city of Zagreb. Low and behold, electric trams finally replaced the classical and most worthy horse trams that diligently served city folk for many years. A century later, today’s tram network consists of 116 km of railway coordinated in fifteen day and four night tram lines. Amongst these, one tram number is very specific and that is tram number 13. It was put into operation way back in 1911 and its route consisted of Ban Jelačić Square - Kaptol - Nova Ves - Gupčeva zvijezda - Mirogoj. After a tragic accident on October 31, 1954, both the tram line and tram 13 were discontinued. After forty-two years, the tram with the number 13 returned to function and rides between Žitnjak to Kvaternik Square today. So what exactly can be seen on tram 13? Firstly, the line encompasses 27 stations from beginning till end and the route passes by some of Zagreb’s major sights, cultural institutions and locations that you should certainly visit. If you board tram 13 the entire ride takes approximately an hour from start to finish, depending on traffic of course. Here at IYP, we can’t help but recommend you start your journey from the central station at Ban Jelačić Square and head towards the direction that interests you most. Decisions… decisions… If you happen to start from Žitnjak, you’ll pass through one of the older suburbs of Peščenica, where you will find the Church of Blessed Augustine Kažotić which is famous for its contemporary architectural design. Vukovarska Street is the lengthiest part of the route where you can see

Tram no. 13 - ZET Archives

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Sightseeing the remains of socialist architecture. The intersection with Držićeva has blocks of residential buildings inspired by the ‘father of modern architecture’ Charles Edouard Jeanneret - Le Corbusier; a typical example is the residential block Vukovarska 35 - 35a, not to mention state institutions such as the Palace of Justice or the Public Open University. The Lisinski Concert Hall, which is also one of the largest concert halls in Croatia, was built in 1973 in honour of the great Croatian composer Vatroslav Lisinski who wrote the first Croatian opera, ‘Love and Malice’. Opposite the hall, there is the extensive and lush university meadow with fountains which use holograms to mark major events and holidays, and in warmer days also serve to refresh. Turning towards Savska Street, one moves to a busier and livelier cultural part of the city with the Dražen Petrović Museum, Technical Museum, Mimara Museum, Museum of Arts and Crafts, the Croatian National Theatre, Academy of Music, and the Gavella Theatre. And then you finally arrive to the well-known Ilica Street which is also one of the longest streets in town (the 4th largest to be exact). In just a few minutes, from perusing the river to watching people stroll along Ilica Street amongst more shops, ice cream parlours and cafes, you reach the inaugural main square. Look to the left, and what time is it? Glance at Ban Jelačić Square, give the Duke on the horse a salute then move along towards the Lenuci horseshoe and beautiful Zrinjevac Park which boasts a gorgeous Bollé fountain. On the right side of the Archaeological Museum and the Museum of Modern Art sits one of the first hotels in Zagreb, the Palace Hotel, which overlooks the beautiful park and Strossmayer Gallery of Old Masters. Then to the King Tomislav Square aka ‘Tomislavac’ and its nearby Art Pavilion, from there you get a view of the main railway station next to which is the historical and classical Hotel Esplanade, built in 1925 and for the most famous ‘Orient Express’ which ran from Paris to Istanbul and passed through Zagreb. Branimirova Street is next on the agenda and the ‘Branimir Centre’ is located at the intersection with Draškovićeva Street, this is where the first production of biscuits and chocolate called ‘UNION’, later known as ‘Kraš’ used to operate. Did someone just say chocolate? Hmmm… Scrumptious! A mere two stations further, we arrive at the Croatian Association of Artists (Meštrović Pavilion) i.e. Džamija (the former mosque). And two stations thereafter is the final destination, Kvatrić. Walk through the market place, sip on coffee, nibble on cake and enjoy the city life. Fun Fact: ZET vehicles run the entire length of the equator three fold and on a daily basis. In terms of a yearly scale... they travel the equivalent of 109 trips to the moon and back!

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Zagreb Welcomes You - Model City Measuring just under 13 square metres in area, “Zagreb Welcomes You” is a scale model of much of the Croatian capital, and is situated on Bakačeva which is the street leading from the main square, up to Kaptol. The entire piece features over 2500 addresses, and over 400 distinct structures, all cast beautifully in bronze. The south and west facing sides of the model feature short texts referencing the history of Zagreb in both Croatian and English, and they also showcase the original coat of arms of Zagreb and the seal of Kaptol. Also along the base you can see a number of scenes which depict holidays tied to Croatia and the capital. The model was sculpted by Professor Damir Mataušić, and has already ‘replaced’ the clock on Trg ban Jelačić as the default meeting place for many of the locals.QC‑2, Ulica Tome Bakača.

Curiosities Funicular Quite possibly the shortest funicular, or indeed any tracked transportation, in the world. Starting just off Ilica you can hitch a ride for 4kn up to the base of the Lotrščak Tower that guards the entrance to Gornji grad, that is of course if you can’t be bothered to spend 30 seconds climbing the steps that run up the side of the tracks. A boon for the lazy amongst us!QB‑2, Tomićeva bb, [email protected], www.zet.hr. Open 06:30 - 22:00. The Green Horseshoe (Zelena potkova) A forward thinking urban planner by the name of Lenuci came along at the end of 19th Century and was instrumental in creating the so-called Green Horseshoe or Lenuci’s Horseshoe. If you look at the B/C-3/4 region of the map at the back, you’ll see an unmistakable green U-shape that explains the name, famous both for the green spaces and the architecture inside of it. The west leg (B-3) is comprised of three squares: Trg maršala Tita with the Baroque and unmistakably yellow Croatian National Theatre; Mažuranićev trg and Marulićev trg with beautiful art nouveau buildings, and the State Archives. The southern leg (B/C-4) is entirely comprised of the wonderful Botanical gardens. This glorious return to nature is home to over 10 000 plant species, numerous park benches, lily pads galore and ducks that quack. The facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Sightseeing

east leg (C-3) is also made up of three squares: Trg kralja Tomislava with its Art Pavilion, Strossmayerov trg with the Gallery of Arts and Sciences and finally the glorious Zrinjevac with its exquisite Music Pavilion. This group of squares is worshipped by locals, tourists and animals of all types.QB/C‑3/4.

top 5 secret things to see in zagreb A portrait of the daughter of Samuel Berger Located at the Modern Gallery, this painting was created by Vlaho Bukovac, one of the most renowned Croatian painters. Girl with a Bird Located at the Zagreb City Museum, this gouache painting was created by Marc Chagall, one of the most successful artists of the 20th century, who used a combination of art forms, such as cubism, symbolism, and fauvism when painting his portraits. Liber linteus Zagrebiensis A linen cloth wrapped around a mummy, purchased by Mihajlo Barić, in 1848, was found to contain a manuscript written, within the fabric, in Etruscan text. Located at the Archaeological Museum in Zagreb, this is the only preserved copy of such a manuscript. Stjepan Erdödy Jump Located at the Museum of Arts and Crafts, this photograph, taken in 1895 by Karlo Drašković, represents one of the first photographs taken in Croatia. The Holy Trinity This is the most valuable painting at Strossmayer Gallery. It was created by an anonymous Dutch painter, who is known as the master of paintings, Virgo inter Virgines.

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Sightseeing

Sightseeing Horrible Histories Crna kraljica (The Black Queen) There are several legends that pass between the generations in Croatia about the Black Queen, but no-one quite knows what the truth is about this mysterious figure. We know that Barbara of Celj was born in 1392 to nobleman Hermann II of Celj. At a young age she was betrothed to the much older King Sigismund of Luxembourg. It seems she was an intelligent and hypnotically beautiful woman who found herself ruling Croatia in her husband’s absence. And here’s where the stories diverge. Was she a merciless ruler, governing with a rod of iron and little pity in her heart? Or was she deeply misunderstood, unpopular simply for being a politically astute woman? On the one hand she is said to have refused water from her plenteous well to her fellow citizens during a drought. On the other she is said to have summoned unearthly forces to create the Plitvice Lakes and bring water to her people. Where does the truth lie? The debate goes on.

Pavillion, Botanical Garden Archives

Zagreb Mummy Perhaps the most famous relic in Croatia is kept at the Archaeological Museum. The mummified body from Thebes was bought by Mihael Bari in Egypt in 1848-49, which you may think seems perfectly reasonable, yet the mummy is Etruscan and had no business being across the Mediterranean. The Etruscans controlled large parts of west Italy, including modern day Tuscany, from around 8 to 5

the altar of st. rocco Sometimes we innocently fail to see the beauty of something until we learn about the efforts gone into its creation. The altar of St. Rocco which is now placed in the Chapel of St. Rocco and located in the park overlooking the British Square, has survived its own Calvary. It was originally built in 1755 by city guilds and placed in St. Mark’s Church; it carried the name the altar of the Holy Trinity, St. John the Baptist and Evangelist. The quality of altars back then were categorised by colour and their exaggerated baroque decorations. At the time, Bishop Josip Juraj Strossmayer thought that many altars, though beautiful, were not spiritually inspiring and ordered a complete revamp; hence the altar was subsequently given a new home, new look and new name. The end of the 19th century saw the altar themed with a statue of St. Rocco and a dog carrying a piece of bread in its mouth. Two centuries later, a fire in the 1970s destroyed the right side of the altar and after extensive restoration; it was possible to once again see the altar in its original design. 50 Zagreb In Your Pocket

B.C. and only basics of their language, which is pre-indoEuropean, are understood. The Zagreb Mummy, like many celebrities, is actually more famous for her clothes than her personal talents. After her owner died it was discovered that the bandages the mummy was wrapped in are strips of a book made of linen. This book is the longest preserved text in the Etruscan language and appears to be something similar to a liturgical calendar. The mummy is on permanent display but her bonds are locked away and only revealed to experts.QC‑2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19. Zagreb’s Solar System The solar system in space? Pah! We’ve got one right here in Zagreb. If you’ve ever wondered what the great big metal ball in Bogovićeva ulica is, the answer is, of course, the sun - a sculpture made by Ivan Kožarić in 1971. In 2004 Davor Preis created a scale model of the solar system around this mighty Sun, including planets at the following urban locations: Mercury - Margaretska 3, Venus - Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 3, Earth - Varšavska 9, Mars - Tkalčićeva 21, Jupiter - Voćarska 71, Saturn - Račićeva 1, Uranus - Siget 9, Neptune - Kozari put, Pluto - Aleja Bologne (underpass). Preis never revealed the locations of the planets, so finding them turned into a game lasting until the last planet was “discovered” in 2006. It’s a great way to get a feel for the dimensions of the solar system and to discover random corners of the city.

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Grička vještica (The Witch from Grič) Marija Jurić Zagorka (1873-1957) is one of the best-loved Croatian authors as well as one of the first Croatian female journalists. Her tales of old Zagreb are based on historical fact embellished into rich and intriguing tales. Her most popular work is a cycle of seven novels named “The Witch from Grič”. Sadly, none of Zagorka’s novels have been translated into English, but luckily for you, dear readers, we’re here to tell you the tale of Zagreb’s most famous witch. The character was based on a real woman baker in Zagreb, the widow Barica Cindek. She was so appealing as a woman and so successful as a merchant that she attracted the envy of her neighbours and the venom of the men who failed to conquer her. The hordes of men were always milling around her stall on St Mark’s Square. This put poor Barica in court, accused of keeping a devil in her pocket to entice the helpless males. In those days it didn’t take much to be accused of witchcraft, and it was the jealousy of a spurned notary public that almost put a tragic end to Barica’s tale. He and other rejected suitors blackmailed other “witches” to point the finger at Barica in return for their freedom. So Barica found herself imprisoned. However, at that time educated folk were starting to protest against witch-hunts, and Barica was spared being burnt at the stake (this time with the help of the notary who had been paid off by Barica’s lawyer). Zagorka researched real court archives for her story: there were great numbers of women - and men - who were proclaimed in league with the devil by a hysterical and envious society. Although Zagorka herself was born more than a century after the last “witch” was burned at the stake, as the first woman journalist in Croatia she likely felt the same condemnation from society, which is probably why she spoke strongly against discrimination. A true role model, Zagorka is still delighting and inspiring readers today. facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

So, as you walk the quaint streets of Zagreb’s Upper Town, if you catch the eye of a pretty and successful woman remember the tale of Barica! Kameni svatovi (Stone Wedding) Kameni svatovi is the name of a picturesque collection of rock pillars on the western slopes of Mount Medvednica, at about 400m above the level of the road over the village of Jablanovec. The name means “Stone Wedding”, and in a moment you’ll find out exactly why. This is a popular destination for hikers, both due to the attractiveness of the rocks themselves and to the fabulous views over the Zagorje region, the Samoborsko gorje uplands, the Žumberak hills, and, on clear days, all the way to the Kamnik Alps and Mount Triglav (2864m) in Slovenia. According to legend, the pillars represent the wedding of a young miller and his love, a poor girl named Janja, turned to stone. The miller’s family was wealthy and his mother was set on a rich wife for her son, a suitable match for such a family. But as often happens when the heart prevails, he had fallen in love with Janja, the daughter of a penniless blind man. The miller’s mother was beside herself, but her husband stood by his son as he himself had started out without a penny to his name. He ordered his wife to cease her protests. On the day of the wedding the mother was not among the wedding guests since she was at home cooking and preparing for their arrival. However, in a moment of rage she swore that lightning would strike and turn the wedding party to stone before she let Janja into her home. And that is exactly what happened. The wedding turned to stone still stands today. This attractive place is the perfect end to a fine but not over-demanding walk. If you are already on mount Medvednica, you can approach from Ponikve, a field on the southwest slopes of the mountain above the beginning of the D1 main road from Zagreb to Zabok. Or, you can come from the eastern suburbs of Gornji Stenjevec or Podsused, or from Jablanovec village itself. Krvavi most (Bloody Bridge) In the old days, Zagreb was made up of two settlements, Gradec and Kaptol, set on neighbouring hills with the Medveščak stream dividing them. The inhabitants of the two towns would often get into quarrels and fights, and one of the places where such altercations would take place (often ending up in bloody noses) was the bridge over the Medveščak. Thus the bridge earned its name: Krvavi most (“Bloody Bridge”). The stream was diverted underground and its course paved over when a sewerage system was built, and the bridge, thus useless, was knocked down. But the small and quiet street connecting Radićeva ulica and Tkalčićeva still bears its scarysounding name.

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Shopping Shopping Malls A woman’s fetish isn’t far away as the heart of Zagreb and its outskirts is full of shopping centres. Each centre can be reached by tram or bus with the Kaptol Centre and Centar Cvjetni walking distance from the main square. The bigger centres require public transport and include Avenue Mall in Novi Zagreb, Arena Centre in Lanište, City Centre One West in Jankomir, Point Shopping Centre in Vrbani, City Centre One East in Žitnjak, and Garden Mall in Dubrava. What else can we say but, ‘shop till you drop’!

Antiques Apartman Lamps, candlesticks, decorative bottles and other unique stuff.QA‑2, Ilica 61, tel. (+385-1) 484 61 96. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Mon 13:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 14:00. Closed Sun. A

5 museum shop finds Archaeological Museum Shop Take home a piece of history with you today from the museum souvenir shop. Items include: ushepti figurines, tripartite jugs, the head of a Pharaoh and many, many more.QC‑2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, tel. (+385-1) 487 31 01, [email protected], www.amz.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. A Art Shop Klovićevi Dvori Souvenirs that prove you do indeed have the soul of an artist.QC‑1, Jezuitski trg 4, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 26. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. A HNK Art Shop Amble into the souvenir shop where you can find Tshirts with Hamlet prints, DVD monographs, War and Peace postcards, umbrellas, cups, puzzles and other fancy items with motifs from different theatre shows.QB‑3, Trg maršala Tita 15, tel. (+385-1) 488 84 18, infocentar@ hnk.hr, www.hnk.hr. Usually operates from 10:00 13:00 and every evening when there are shows on. A Msu Shop A great choice of books and works by Croatian and international designers.QJ‑5, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1) 605 27 58, [email protected], www.msu.hr. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Muo Shop Gifts inspired by the collection in the lovely Museum of Arts and Crafts.QB‑3, Trg maršala Tita 10, tel. (+3851) 488 21 10/(+385-1) 488 21 11, www.muo.hr. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. A 52 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Galerija Kerubin Antiques, furniture, arts and crafts, jewellery and all kinds of other stuff.QC‑1, Kamenita 15, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 98, [email protected], www.galerijakerubin. com.hr. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

A good old vinyl Dancing Bear CD shop, extensive selection outside the mainstream. QB‑2, Gundulićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 483 08 50, maloprodaja. [email protected], www.dancingbear.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. A Dirty Old Shop The one stop ideal shop for all lovers of vinyl, comics, t-shirts with cool prints, posters, original figures of characters from favorite shows, bands, movies and all retro to cool!QI‑3, Tra‑ tinska 18, tel. (+385-1) 557 38 88, info@dirtyoldempire. com, www.dirtyoldempire.com. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Croatian design Croatian Design Superstore Totally new concept store bringing the finest in Croatian design to the forefront! This pop-up shop includes fashion, gastronomy, kitchen & tableware, decor, jewellery, lighting and furniture. It’s a fab place to find unique gifts and original souvenirs that are designed and produced in Croatia. Also, the cafe, which is located within the store, offers great cups of coffee and refreshing smoothies, cocktails, craft beers and wines, plus loads of homemade snacks on a daily basis from 09:00 till 21:00.QD‑2, Martićeva 4, [email protected], www. croatiandesignsuperstore.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Love_Ana A recently established fixture in the field of interior design, this is certainly worth a curious visit for the casual passerby, and a must-visit by anyone considering opening some avante garde gallery or restaurant. In addition to Ana’s own expertise, the shop stocks and hosts sculptures and artisanal jewellery.QB‑2, Dežmanova 4, tel. (+385-1) 580 16 76, www.anatevsic.com. Open 16:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 14:00. Closed Sun. Take Me Home - Croatian Design Shop The perfect place to pick up some chic Croatian souvenirs and gifts created by over 60 designers. Tote bags and purses with traditional Croatian motifs printed on modern designs, unique jewellery, trendy daily planners and notebooks, plus all sorts of other creative knick-knacks and handmade mementos are all offered to remember your trip by.QB‑2, Tomićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 798 76 32, info@takemehome. hr, www.takemehome.hr. Open 09:30 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 15:00. Closed Sun. A zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Shopping

Shopping affordable art

Lidia Boševski - ladica.org Archives

Bowls and Plates by Lidia Boševski If you would like to include a unique bowl or plate in your home collection, then visit the Atelier Lidia Boševski at Vlaška 81a. After completing a degree in Applied Arts, Boševski worked in textile and clothing design, as well as product design followed by ceramics in 2003. The acknowledgment of her work has helped her gain a reputation as one of the astute Croatian artists in the field of ceramics. Jewellery by Diana Sokolić Jewellery created by academic artist Diana Sokolić received the silver award for fashion design (FRED cufflinks - bracelets) at the International Design Competition in Italy, 2013. Thereafter, it was presented by British Vogue, Tattler, InStyle, Marie Claire and Harper’s Bazaar. This year, and at the same contest, she received the bronze award for her fashion design (Lacey bracelets) made with lace, and was once again famed by British Vogue. This jewellery can be purchased at the Contemporary Art Museum (Avenija Dubrovnik 17), and the Arts and Crafts Museum (Trg maršala Tita 10) and via www.dianas.it Monograph of Miroslav Šutej Mobile serigraphs - Authors: Slavica Marković and Zvonko Maković Šutej is a remarkable personality of Croatian art of the late 20th century, and the name of a prominent international graphic artist. Find his monograph at the Cabinet of Graphics HAZU (Andrije Hebranga 1).

Saša Šekoranja Gallery Archives

Necklaces by Nenad Roban Necklaces from the project ‘Hommages’- Form follows the artist - A project conceived as a kind of ‘hommage’ or tribute to certain individuals in the field of design, architecture and fine art. You can purchase their works at the Croatian Design Superstore (Martićeva 4). Replicas of the Galle Lamp and Miniature of Jesus At the Kerubin Gallery, on Kamenita 15, you can find replicas of Galle lamp, laminated glass height is 54 cm from around the 1980s, and miniatures of Jesus, monastic work, from the 1780s era, dimensions are 16x13 cm.

Tihana Mikša Perković: Past... at last, Exhibition of Fashion Design Photo by Vanja Šolin, Ulupuh Archives

54 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Saša Šekoranja badges The artist has made a set of artistic badges with motifs of stylised flowers which are taken from his very own paintings, then photographed and further customised in the shape of a badge. These can be found in the flower Gallery Saša Šekoranja (Dežmanov prolaz 1). zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Clothes

Shoes & Accesories

Fashion Boutique Dora Just for the ladies, boutique Dora is a traditional family business that has been designing and manufacturing beautiful women’s clothing for over 30 years. Dora is known for their quality production and feminine designs. Every pattern is made either bespoke or in a small series, and always of the finest natural fabrics. Authentic and tailor made for you!QC‑1, Kamenita 2, tel. (+3851) 485 17 63, [email protected], www. dora-rubic.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. J­A

A shoo A not to be missed shoe shop and design studio in one. Waltz in and pick out some soft leather and skinny straps to wrap around your feet. Anita’s shoes are walking sex. QD‑2, Martićeva 19, [email protected], www.ashoo.net. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. N

Jewelry Jozef Gjoni They opened in 1971, and since then have been producing unique and one-of-a-kind pieces of jewellery. With a large collection of handmade gold and silver antique pieces, as well as traditional Croatian jewellery, adorned with precious and semi precious gemstones, they offer something for everyone.QC‑2, Ulica Nikole Jurišića 10, tel. (+385-1) 481 09 02, www.zlatarna-jozef-gjoni. hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. J­A Medaković Specializing in handmade modern jewelry, since 1938, these contemporary and unique pieces were created by goldsmith, Renato Medaković.QC‑2, Frane Petrića 2, tel. (+385-1) 481 27 49/(+385-) 098 182 64 70, [email protected]. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. N Thesaurus Nice, rich jewellery made of precious metals and natural materials mostly inspired by Far East.QB‑2, Dežmanov prolaz 5, tel. (+385-) 091 536 33 18/(+385-) 091 516 62 22, www.thesaurus-jewellery.com. Open 12:00 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

Cahun Look the part with handmade millinery and hats made from all kinds of material.QC‑2, Pod zidom 8, tel. (+385-1) 481 49 75, www.cahun.hr. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Cerovečki Handmade umbrellas.QB‑2, Ilica 49, tel. (+385-1) 484 74 17, www.kisobrani-cerovecki.hr. Open 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 14:30. Closed Sun. A Croata Croatia, home to the cravat, and home too to Croata, a store in which you will find a rich array of ties, scarves, and more, all made from the finest of silks. Croata boasts several entirely unique designs so gifts from here can be that much more special.QC‑2, Ilica 5 (Oktogon), www.croata. hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

Delicatessen Bonkulović Delicacies Take your pick with their wide range of world famous delicacies.QI‑2, Nova Ves 17 (Centre Kaptol), tel. (+385-1) 486 07 89, [email protected], www.bonkulovic.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A Čajoteka All kinds of teas to collect and sip. Brits: this is the only pure teahouse in town that we know of.QD‑2, Iblerov trg 10 (Im‑ portanne Galleria), tel. (+385-1) 483 37 11, info@cajoteka. info. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

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Spring 2016 55

Shopping

Ulični ormar Archives

3

Pinklec Delicija Unique, regional flavors fill cured meats, cheeses, olive oils, truffels are offered along with most any other palattepleasing product. Delight the senses with some cultural spelunking and souvenir indulgence.QE‑2, Martićeva 14c, tel. (+385-1) 457 99 11. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A Shatro Galeria This lovely shop, stocks Croatian-only products - be they picked or made by hand - from the islands of Mljet, Rab, Vis, as well as Nin, Buzet, and of course the capital itself. These products include a wide range of liqueurs, jams from not so common fruits such as planika (Irish strawberry), and plavac a grape variety also present in wine form on the shelves. A full rundown of everything available would take pages…QC‑2, Stara Vlaška 7, tel. (+385-1) 562 77 33. Open 09:00 - 21:00.

Quirky Stores Glass Art Atelier Staklić - Gabriel Gallery Founded in 1984, Glass Art Atelier “Staklić” is led by Academic painter Dominique Jurić. Original Zagreb souvenirs from the Gabriel’s Gallery production are on sale which represents a series of city motifs (Šestine umbrellas, Lotrščak Tower...) made in glass according to the Tiffany technique. Simply announce yourself earlier by email: [email protected]‑1, Voćarska 25, [email protected], www.vitrajidominique.com. Open 09:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

Kloto Accessorize with handmade designs inspired by Gothic, Lolita and Pinup.QB‑2, Masarykova 14, tel. (+385-1) 487 26 59, [email protected], www.udrugakloto.hr. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A zagreb.inyourpocket.com

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Fashion Boutique DoraQC-1, Kamenita 2, tel.

(+385-1) 485 17 63, [email protected], www.dora-rubic.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00

Ulični OrmarQD-2, Nikole Jurišića 16, tel. (+385-1) 492 65 00, [email protected]. Open 10:00 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00

2 Galerija KerubinQC-1, Kamenita 15, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 98, [email protected], www.galerijakerubin. com.hr. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00

3 StripoviQC-3, Preradovićeva 34, (+385-1) 483 77 77, [email protected], www.stripovi.hr Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00

comics

Jasmina i lutkice A beautiful and unique collection of handmade dolls and stuffed animals.QD‑3, Petrinjska 40, tel. (+385-) 098 79 57 73, [email protected]. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 22:00.

56 Zagreb In Your Pocket

1

VINTAGE

Ulični Ormar The English translation means ‘Street Wardrobe’ and this treasure of a store holds second hand vintage and retro clothes that have stood the test of time. It’s purely vintage with some outstanding items up for grabs. Situated in a small courtyard, only few minutes walking distance from the main square, come and enjoy the atmosphere, music and authenticity of each piece.QD‑2, Nikole Jurišića 16, tel. (+385-1) 492 65 00, [email protected]. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. From 50kn. J­A­6

Galerija Kulin Galović Try one of the best Slavonian kulens (dried minced pork) as well as famous Slavonian truffles or čvarci (dried pork fat). It is a meat-lovers oasis!QE‑2, Vlaška 78, tel. (+385-1) 457 20 05, www.kulin-galovic.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

Take Me Home - Croatian Design ShopQB-2, Tomićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 798 76 32, [email protected], www.takemehome.hr. Open 09:30 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00

2

gifts

Hrelić (Jakuševac) flea market You may meet the Croatian version of the ‘Trotter brothers’ here as this is the city’s largest Sunday flea market. Situated on the outskirts of the city, it is jam packed with goodies from cars, motor-cycles, clothes, to thousands of other handy items. You name it, it’s sure to have it! Bargaining will be fun and do take the time to relish some of the authentic local food and meat dishes on offer! Get in early as merchants leave by noon. The quickest way to get to the Fair is to catch the bus number 295 at the Zapruđe Station, this line is available on Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays. For more info visit: www.zet.hr.QK‑5, Sajmišna cesta 8, Jakuševac.

4

accessories

Britanski trg antique market Sunday mornings are always an attraction as the antique market is bursting with flair and excitement. Here you will find various decorative things, old books and collectables of both local and international origin. Located in the very heart of the city, the market is a real cultural treat for all fans of antiquity.QA‑2, Britanski trg.

Antiques

more style for less cash

CITY CENTRE SHOPPING

Crop Store Crop Store is a great place to call into if you’re hunting for Croatian gifts whether they be the ubiquitous red heart or a bottle of Istrian wine. Here you will find everything from artisanal chocolate to olive oil, from liqueurs to truffles and honey. If we were to list everything then we’d still be typing. Please, go in, peruse the shelves, thank us later.QC‑1, Tkalčićeva 28, [email protected], www.crop.com.hr. Open 10:00 - 22:00.

4

5

Shopping

Hotels Prostor Manufakturne Slobode (PMS) An ideal place for all those who devour and appreciate hand-crafts and new age ideas.QC‑2, Tkalčićeva 61, [email protected]. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Sat 12:00 16:00, 19:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. A Roba Store Homing their own collection as well as boasting a well chosen assortment of European fashion brands.QC‑3, Petra Preradovića 34, tel. (+385-1) 485 46 81, [email protected]. Open 10:00 -20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Saša Šekoranja Gallery Famous flower sculptor has opened a floral gallery in Dežmanova Street which will host works, exhibitions, book promotions and more.QB‑2, Dežmanov prolaz 1, tel. (+385-1) 484 70 70. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 15:00. Closed Sun. N

Saša Šekoranja Gallery Archives

Silver Club Men have it easy. Need a tux? Rent one! Need a shirt? Every store carries them! Thankfully for the women of Zagreb, Silver Club is here to meet your needs. Want a bag or necklace to go with your new dress? Silver Club can hook you up. Silver Club is a members only accessory boutique which rents out jewellery, bags, and the like, for two week periods. It may sound unusual, but the foot traffic speaks for itself. Silver Club does sell some smaller items, and once or twice per year will hold a members only clear-out of rotating stock. Ladies, take a look, because you won’t be disappointed.QB‑2, Ilica 47/a, tel. (+385-1) 484 61 94, www.silverclubrentafashion.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. J Stripovi na kvadrat An abundance of comics from this part of Europe as well as the best known English editions are hot off the press here. Heaps of figurines, t-shirts, badges, toys, games, DVDs and gifts are also available and their website is updated with the latest releases.QC‑3, Preradovićeva 34, tel. (+385-1) 483 77 77, [email protected], www.stripovi.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

Crop Store Archives Dora Rubić at Fashion Boutique - Photo by Višnja Arambašić

Vešmašina Eclectic. Unique. Quirky. There are probably few enough words to adequately describe this shop, placed at the top of Opatovina. Caters to hipster kids, those needing classic business wear, it has hats, coats, shoes, boots, accessories galore! If you’re having difficulty picking up some unusual presents then you need to pay a visit here.QC‑1, Opatovina 45, tel. (+385-1) 390 70 00, info@vesmasina. com, www.vesmasina.hr. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

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58 Zagreb In Your Pocket

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Since Zagreb is a popular tourist hot spot, it is of no surprise that there is a wide range of accommodation options from hotels, boutique hotels, hostels, and private accommodation of different categories and prices. While on the go, where to snooze is indeed an important decision. In recent years, an influx of hostels has opened around town which are extremely clean and tidy, with attention given to the arrangement of the interior. Private accommodation with apartments and flats are always in demand while the hotel offer now includes an emergence of classy boutique hotels. Detailed information in reference to all types of accommodation is available on the web site and at the Tourist Information Centres. All in all, there’s something for everyone’s pocket!

5 Stars Esplanade Zagreb Hotel QC‑4, Mihanovićeva 1, tel. (+385-1) 456 66 66, fax (+3851) 456 60 20, [email protected], www.esplanade.hr. 208 rooms (146 Superior Rooms €120 - 229, 48 Deluxe Rooms €140 - 229, 13 Deluxe Suite €220 - 309, 1 Presi‑ dential Suite €1900). P­T­J­H­A­R­6­U­I­F­ L­E­G­B­K­D­W hhhhh Sheraton Zagreb Hotel QD‑3, Kneza Borne 2, tel. (+385-1) 455 35 35, fax (+3851) 455 30 35, [email protected], www. hotel-sheratonzagreb.com. 306  rooms (254  singles €105 - 135, 254 doubles €130 - 160, 28 suites €175 - 270, 23 Junior Suites €130 - 160, 1 Presidential Suite €1000 1500). P­i ­J­H­A­R­6­U­F­L­G­B­K­D­X­ C­w­W hhhhh The Westin Zagreb QA‑3, Izidora Kršnjavoga 1, tel. (+385-1) 489 20 00, fax (+385-1) 489 20 01, [email protected], www.hotelwestinzagreb.com. 349 rooms (308 doubles €125  - 170, 19  Westin Guest Office Suites €175  - 220, 1  Presidential Suite €1500, 19  Executive Suites €260  310, 2 Delux Suites €560 - 592). P­Z­O­T­J­H­A­ R­6­U­F­L­G­B­K­D­X­C­w­W hhhhh

4 Stars Arcotel Allegra QD‑4, Branimirova 29, tel. (+385-1) 469 60 00, fax (+385-1) 469 60 96, [email protected], www. arcotelhotels.com/en. 151  rooms (38  singles €170, 103 doubles €185, 4 suites €335, 4 Junior Suites €260, 2 Rooms for disabled €170). P­J­H­A­R­6­U­I­ F­L­E­G­B­K­D­S­w­W hhhh BEST WESTERN PREMIER Hotel Astoria QC‑2, Petrinjska 71, tel. (+385-1) 480 89 00, fax (+3851) 480 89 08, [email protected], www.hotelastoria. hr. 100 rooms (36 singles €79 - 97, 2 suites €213 - 244, 28 King €93 - 125, 18 Twin €93 - 125, 12 Executive €111 150, 4 Superior Executive €164 - 187). P­T­H­A­R­ U­L­G­K­W hhhh facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Palace Hotel Zagreb Archives

Double Tree by Hilton Zagreb QJ‑3, Ulica grada Vukovara 269a, tel. (+385-1) 600 19 00, fax (+385-1) 600 19 16, www.zagreb.doubletree. com. 152  rooms (26  Guest Rooms Twin €109  - 209, 90  Guest Rooms King €109  - 209, 2  Disabled Guest Rooms King €109 - 209, 28 Deluxe Rooms King €135 235, 6 Corner Suites €209 - 309). P­H­A­R­6­U­ F­L­G­D­C­w­W hhhh Dubrovnik QC‑2, Ljudevita Gaja 1, tel. (+385-1) 486 35 55, fax (+385-1) 486 35 07, [email protected], www.hotel-dubrovnik.hr. 222 rooms (77 singles €89 99, 87  King Twin Rooms €115  - 119, 50  Delux Rooms €129 - 145, 4 Junior Suites €160, 3 Executive Suites €185, 1  Presidential Suite €500). P­O­T­J­H­A­6­U­ F­L­G­B­K­X­W hhhh Hotel International QC‑4, Miramarska 24, tel. (+385-1) 610 81 00, fax (+3851) 610 87 00, [email protected], www.hotelinternational.hr. 207 rooms (168 doubles €170, 8 triples €183, 1 suite €280, 29 Junior Suites €190, 1 Presidential Suite €450). P­Z ­i ­O­T­H­A­R­6­U­F­L­G­ K­D­W hhhh Palace QC‑3, Trg J. J. Strossmayera 10, tel. (+385-1) 489 96 00, fax (+385-1) 481 13 57, [email protected], www.palace. hr. 123 rooms (23 singles €95 - 105, 95 doubles €115 125, 3  suites €250  - 255, 2  Junior Suites €180  - 185). P ­i ­T ­J ­H ­A ­R ­6 ­U ­F ­L ­G ­B ­K ­w ­W hhhh

www.inyourpocket.com Spring 2016 59

Hotels

Directory 3 Stars Central QD/C‑4, Kneza Branimira 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 11 22, fax (+385-1) 484 01 03, [email protected], www.hotelcentral.hr. 69 rooms (24 singles €68 - 80, 39 doubles €75 95, 6  triples €93  - 107). P­i ­O­H­A­R­6­L­W hhh Hotel Laguna Zagreb QA‑4, Kranjčevićeva 29, tel. (+385-1) 304 70 00, fax (+385-1) 304 70 77, [email protected], www.hotellaguna.hr. 166  rooms (62  singles €50  - 70, 83  doubles €60 - 80, 15 triples €70 - 90, 6 suites €90 - 120). P­i ­J­ H­A­R­6­U­I­G­B­K­X­W hhh Jadran QD‑2, Vlaška 50, tel. (+385-1) 455 37 77, fax (+385-1) 461 21 51, [email protected], www.hup-zagreb.com. 49 rooms (24 singles €74, 20 doubles €86, 5 triples €98). P­i ­J­A­R­6­U­L­G­K­W hhh Jägerhorn QC‑2, Ilica 14, tel. (+385-1) 483 38 77, fax (+385-1) 483 35 73, [email protected], www.hotel-jagerhorn. hr. 18 rooms (3 singles €95 - 119, 13 doubles €115 - 125, 2 apartments €159). P­i ­J­A­L­G­B­K­W hhh

AROUND THE Airport Aristos QJ‑6, Cebini 33, Buzin, tel. (+385-1) 669 59 00, fax (+385-1) 669 59 02, [email protected], www. hotel-aristos.hr. 150  rooms (5  singles €78  - 150, 134  doubles €84  - 160, 7  triples €130  - 190, 3  suites €190 - 240, 1 Presidential Suite €350 - 460). P­i ­H­ A­R­6­U­F­L­G­B­K­D­X­S­w­W hhhh

Photo by Anette Fleck

SYMBOL key

Best Western Hotel Stella QNadinska 27, tel. (+385-1) 539 36 00/(+385-) 091 636 46 88, fax (+385-1) 539 36 03, info@hotel-stella. hr, www.hotel-stella.hr. 44 rooms (41 singles €70 - 76, 41  doubles €100  - 114, 2  triples €128, 1  suite €141). P­A­U­L­G­W hhh

P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

F Fitness centre

L Guarded parking

R LAN connection 6 Pet-friendly K Restaurant

J Old town location

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

I Fireplace

W Wifi

B Outside seating

60 Zagreb In Your Pocket

homestays Evistas QD‑3, Augusta Šenoe 28, tel. (+385-1) 483 95 54/ (+385-) 091 533 70 96, fax (+385-1) 483 95 43, info@ evistas.hr, www.evistas.hr. 21  rooms (6  singles €35  45, 6 doubles €40 - 52, 2 triples €59 - 63, 7 apartments €49 - 105). P­A ­L ­G InZagreb Qtel. (+385-) 091 652 32 01, [email protected], www. inzagreb.com. P­Z­T­A­R­6­U­F­G­B­C­W zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Business connections American Chamber of Commerce QE‑4, Strojarska 22, tel. (+385-1) 483 67 77, fax (+385-1) 483 67 76, [email protected], www.amcham.hr. Open 08:30 - 16:30, Fri 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Croatian Chamber of Economy Freephone info: 0800-1852QB‑3, Rooseveltov trg 2, tel. (+385-1) 456 15 55, fax (+385-1) 482 83 80, snusinovic@ hgk.hr, www.hgk.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Fina - The Finance Agency Call centre tel. 0800 0080QI‑3, Ul. grada Vukovara 70, tel. (+385-1) 612 71 11, [email protected], www.fina.hr. Open 08:00 - 18:30, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Ministry of Economy, Labour and Entrepreneurship QI‑3, Ul. grada Vukovara 78, tel. (+385-1) 610 61 11, [email protected], www.mingorp.hr. Open 08:30 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

Lawyers Hrvatska odvjetnička komora (Croatian Bar Association) Due to strict ethical laws, lawyers in Croatia are not allowed to be listed in publications. Give them a call for infacebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

formation about specific lawyers that specialise in the services you need.QB‑4, Koturaška 53/II, tel. (+385-1) 616 52 00, [email protected], www.hok-cba.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Notaries Hrvatska javnobilježnička komora Notaries work the same way as lawyers in this country: there is a primary association that you have to go through. QD‑2, Račkoga 10, tel. (+385-1) 455 65 66, fax (+385-1) 455 15 44, [email protected], www.hjk.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

Pharmacy 0-24 Central pharmacy QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 3, tel. (+385-1) 481 61 98. Dubrava QL‑2, Grižanska 4, tel. (+385-1) 299 23 50. Ilica QG‑3, Ilica 301, tel. (+385-1) 375 03 21. Ozaljska QH‑3, Ozaljska 1, tel. (+385-1) 309 75 86. Siget QI‑5, Avenija V.Holjevca 22, tel. (+385-1) 652 54 25.

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Directory Lepušićeva E-3 Lisinskog B-1 Lopašićeva E-2 Ljudevita Gaja C-3 Margaretska C-2 Marićev prolaz C-2 Markovićev trg B-1 Martićeva D-2 Marulićev trg B-3 Masarykova B-2 Matičina C-3 Matoševa B-1 Mažuranićev trg B-3 Medulićeva B-3 Mesnička B-2 Mihanovićeva B/C-4 Miklouševa C-1 Mikulićeva E-1 Miramarska C-4 Mletačka B-1 Mlinarske stube C-1 Mrazovićeva D-3 Nikole Tesle C-2 Novakova D-1 Opatička C-1 Opatovina C-1 Palmotićeva D-3 Pantovčak A-2 Park Ribnjak D-1 Paromlinska C-4 Patačićkina D-2 Pavla Hatza D-3 Pavla Šubića E-3 Pavlinovićeva A-2 Perkovčeva B-3 Petrinjska C-2 Petrova E-1 Pierottijeva A-3 Pod zidom C-2 Posilovićeva E-1 Praška C-2 Preobražanska C-2 Preradovićeva C-3 Pr. Gjure Deželića A-2 Primorska A-2 Radićeva C-1 Radnička cesta J/K-3, K/L-4 Radnički dol A-1

Photo by Višnja Arambašić Ribnjak C-1 Rokov perivoj B-2 Rokova A-2 Rubetićeva D-1 Ruđera Boškovića D-3 Runjaninova B-4 Šalata D-1 Savska cesta A-4 Schlosserove stube D-2 Širolina E-3 Skalinska C-1 Smičiklasova D-2 Splavnica C-2 Stančićeva E-3 Starčevićev trg C-4 Streljačka B-1 Strojarska E-4 Strossmayerov trg C-3 Strossmayerovo šet. B-2 Svačićev trg C-3 Švearova E-3 Brezovačkoga B-1 Tkalčićeva C-1 Tomašićeva E-2 Tomićeva B-2 Tratinska A-4 Trg Ante Starčevića C-4 Trg bana Josipa Jelačića C-2 Trg Biskupa J. Langa D-1 Trg braće Hrv. Zmaja C-1

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KONTAKT CENTAR ZET-a Informacije: 060 100 001* Sugestije i pritužbe: 0800 200 060 www.zet.hr *poziv na broj 060 100 001 iz fiksne mreže:1,16 kn/min, iz mobilne 2,36 kn/min (PDV je uračunat).

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Trg Franklina Roosvelta B-3 Trg žrtava fašizma D-3 Trg kralja P. Krešimira IV E-3 Trg kralja Tomislava C-3 Trg Maršala Tita B-3 Trg N. Šubića Zrinjskog C-3 Trg Petra Preradovića C-2 Trg Petra Petretića E-1 Trg Svetog Marka C-1 Trnjanska cesta D-4 Trpimirova D-4 Tuškanac B-1 Tvrtkova E-3 Unska B-4 Varšavska B-2 Vinkovićeva C-1 Visoka B-1 Vitezovićeva C-1 Vladimira Nazora A-1 Vlaška D-2 Voćarska cesta E-1 Voćarsko naselje E-1 Vodnikova B-4 Vojnovićeva E-2 Vončininova D-1 Vramčeva D-1 Vranicanijeva B-1 Vukotinovićeva B-3 Weberova C-1 Zamenhoffova A-1

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City Essentials

VAT in Croatia is generally set at 25% and is due on most goods and services. Lower rates of VAT are applicable to goods such as bread and milk, and the tourism sector. Employers are required to report, withhold and pay authorities all taxes and contributions on behalf of employees for their incomes. Personal income tax on an employee‘s salary is determined at the following rates: 12% for a net income up to 2 200kn, 25% for the difference between net 2 200kn and 11 000kn and 40% for a net income higher than 13 200kn. Thresholds for tax rates are variable, meaning that the law determines them on the basis of the deductions allowed, an amount that changes once a year. City surtax is applicable; Zagreb residents are taxed 18%. 20% of social contributions are withheld from the employee‘s gross income and the employer pays an additional 15.20%. The minimum startup capital for a limited liability company is the counter value in kunas of 20 000kn. A foreign founder deposits the capital into a temporary account with an authorized business bank. Once the company is Croatian registered business, the founder can freely transfer such funds into regular company accounts.

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Horizons With a warm, safe and colorful atmosphere, teachers that nurture and stimulate your child’s learning and an excellent educational programme with creative workshops, arts and crafts, field trips, sports activities etc. - we can definitely say Horizons is a children’s heaven.QI‑2, Zelen‑ gaj 6, tel. (+385-1) 457 82 05, [email protected], www.kindergarten.hr.

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Kindergarten

Gundulićeva B-3 Habdelićeva C-1 Harmica C-2 Hochmanova A-3 Hrvojeva E-3 Ilica A-2 Ivana Gorana Kovačića B-1 Ivana Kukuljevića A-2 Ivekovićeve stube D-1 Jagićeva A-3 Janka Draškovića D-3 Jezuitski trg C-1 Jukićeva A-3 Jurišićeva C-2 Jurja Žerjavića B-3 Jurkovićeva E-1 Kačićeva A-3 Kamaufova E-2 Kamenita C-1 Kaptol C-1 Kapucinske stube B-1 Katančićeva C-3 Katarinin trg C-1 Klaićeva A-3 Kneza Borne D-3 Kneza Branimira D-4 Kneza Lj. Posavskog E-3 Kneza Mislava D-3 Kneza Mutimira D-3 Kneza Višeslava E-3 Koranska B-4 Kordunska A-2 Koturaška A-4 Kovačića Ante C-3 Kozarčeva A-1 Kotarska C-1 Kralja Držislava D-3 Kralja Zvonimira E-2 Kraljice Jelene E-3 Kranjčevićeva A-4 Križanićeva D-3 Kršnjavoga A-3 Krutićeva E-3 Krvavi most C-2 Kumičićeva C-4 Kurelčeva D-2 Kuševićeva B-1 Laginjina E-2

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Central Post Office QD‑4, Branimirova 4, tel. (+385-) 0800 30 33 04, info@ posta.hr, www.posta.hr. Open 00:00 - 24:00.

29. X. 1918. C-1 Aleksandrove stube B-1 Amruševa C-2 Andrije Hebranga B-3 A. Heinza E-1 Andrije Žaje A-3 Antuna Bauera E-3 Arnoldova A-2 Augusta Šenoe D-3 A. Marina Držića E-4 Bakačeva C-2 Barčićeva E-2 Baruna Trenka C-3 Basaričekova C-1 Bednjanska B-4 Berislavićeva C-3 Biankinijeva E-2 Bogovićeva C-2 Božidara Adžije A-3 Branjugova D-2 Brešćenskoga E-2 Britanski trg A-2 Brozova A-4 Buconjićeva A-2 Bulatova A-2 Bulićeva E-2 Čačkovićeva E-1 Cesarčeva C-2 Čirilometodska C-1 Crnatkova A-4 Dalmatinska B-2 Degenova C-1 Demetrova B-1 Dežmanova B-2 Domagojeva D-4 Đorđićeva D-2 Dubravkin put B-1 Dvoranski prečac C-1 Erdödyeva E-3 Felbingerove stube C-1 Florijana Andrašeca A-4 Frane Petrića C-2 Franje Račkog D-2 Frankopanska B-3 Froudeova B-1 Golubovac B-1 Grič B-2 Grgura Ninskog C-4

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The best Zagreb has to offer in one great app

Street register

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TRAM st. u oba smjera TRAM stop - both directions TRAM st. u jednom smjeru TRAM stop - one direction Autobusni terminali BUS terminal Naziv ulice Street name

ZAPRUĐE 14

LINIJE BROJ 1, 3 I 8 NE PROMETUJU SUBOTOM, NEDJELJOM I BLAGDANOM. ROUTES 1, 3 AND 8 DO NOT OPERATE ON SATURDAY, SUNDAY OR PUBLIC HOLIDAYS.

29.10.2014.

Boris Bućan: Breakfast at Printer’s April 14th – May 29th 2016 The world would be a more beautiful place if it was covered with Bućan's posters. The great world msueums that keep his works know this: MoMA, Cooper-Hewitt Museum, New York; Staatliches Museum für Angewandte Kunst, Munich; Deutches Plakat Museum, Essen; Victoria and Albert Museum, London, and many others. Zagreb Museum of Contemporary Art / Av. Dubrovnik 17, Zagreb, Croatia Hours: Tue–Sun: 11:00 a.m.–6:00 p.m. / Saturday: 11:00 a.m.–8:00 p.m. / Monday and holidays: closed