Workbench
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www.BobsPlans.com
Garage Workbench Plans
Every home woodworker knows the importance of making efficient use of the available space in his or her shop. This workbench is designed to provide the maximum functionality using the minimum amount of space possible. It provides a work surface of about six feet by two feet and is about 35” in height. Just the right size to provide ample work space for most projects. The features that make this workbench ideal for the home shop are the built in clamping system, the built in router table, the nine drawers, the center cabinet space, and the mobility. The four inch casters enable you to easily roll it into position when needed and roll it aside when it is not in use. The top surface is made of two layers of 3/4” MDF. This provides an extremely flat work surface and since it is also a router table, a flat work surface is a must. The T-track inlaid in the top and around the edges makes the entire work surface a versatile clamping system that easily clamps very small or very large work pieces.
Copyright © 2006 by Robert E. Reedy All Rights Reserved This document may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the author.
Table of Contents - 1
Dimensions Drawings Materials List - 1 ......................................................................................................x Materials List - 2 ......................................................................................................x End and Center Panels ............................................................................................. 1 Base Dimensions & Layout ..................................................................................... 2 Back Dimensions & Layout .................................................................................... 3 Top Dimensions & Layout ...................................................................................... 4 Sub Top Dimensions & Layout .............................................................................. 5 Top Trim and T-Track ............................................................................................. 6 Drawer Slides, Stiffener, Misc. Small Parts ............................................................ 7 Drawer Fronts, Front Trim, and Doors ................................................................... 8 Drawer Boxes Dimensions ...................................................................................... 9 Router Bit Trays .................................................................................................... 10 Middle Shelf .......................................................................................................... 11
Table of Contents - 2
Assembly Instructions Drawer Slides - Left Section - Left Panel ............................................................. 12 Drawer Slides - Left Section - Right Panel ........................................................... 13 Drawer Slides - Center Section - Left Panel ......................................................... 14 Drawer Slides - Center Section -Right Panel ........................................................ 15 Drawer Slides - Right Section - Left Panel ........................................................... 16 Drawer Slides - Right Section - Right Panel ......................................................... 17 Base to Panels ........................................................................................................ 18 Stiffener - Casters .................................................................................................. 19 Attach the Back ..................................................................................................... 20 Router Box Bottom & Shelf .................................................................................. 21 Router Box Front ................................................................................................... 22 Assemble the Face Frame ...................................................................................... 23 Attach the Face Frame ........................................................................................... 24 Attach the Leveling Blocks to the Panels .............................................................. 25 Attach the Front & Rear Leveling Blocks ............................................................. 26 Attach the Sub Top ................................................................................................ 27 Attach the Inner Trim ............................................................................................ 28 Attach the Middle Trim ......................................................................................... 29 Attach the Top ....................................................................................................... 30 Attach the Track to the Top ................................................................................... 31 Attach the Track to the Front & Ends ................................................................... 32 Attach the Lower Trim .......................................................................................... 33 Assemble the Drawer Boxes & Fronts .................................................................. 34 Assemble the Router Trays ................................................................................... 35 Attach Cabinet Doors ............................................................................................ 36 Attach Middle Door trim ....................................................................................... 37 Clamping System Parts ......................................................................................... 38 Assemble the EZ Mount Stop ............................................................................... 39 Clamping System Usage Instructions .................................................................... 40 Clamping System Illustrations .............................................................................. 41 Snapshots ............................................................................................................... 42
Tools and Accessories You’ll Need Note: Images and underlined text are active web links.
Mast-R-Lift is precision-engineered to within .002" tolerance and CNC-machined from 1" solid aluminum to eliminate bending and sagging. Built-in insert adjusters allow for snugging the lift in your table for a perfect fit, while the built-in leveling system will not wear into the table's recessed opening Plate measures 9-1/4" x 11-3/4" x 3/8". Adjustments are made with a drop-in speed handle that's elevated from the table.
Low Cost Lift for Plunge Routers
Low Cost Router Fence
Mini Pocket Hole Jig
Rockler/JessEm Lift
4 Piece Router Accessory kit
T-Track Kit
Hold Down Clamp Kit
Large Router Plate
Kreg Master System
Shop Casters
Materials List - 1 Qty
Size
2
29 1/4” by 19”
2
28 1/4” by 18 1/4”
1
Material
Item name
3/4” Oak Plywood
End Panels
3/4” Plywood
Middle Panels
66 1/2” by 19”
3/4” Plywood
Base
1
66 1/2” by 28 1/4”
3/4” Plywood
Back
1
72” by 24”
3/4” MDF Board
Top
1
68” by 19 3/4”
3/4” MDF Board
Sub Top
2
69 1/2” by 1 1/2”
3/4” Wood or Plywood
1st Front & Back Sub Top Trim
2
21 1/4” ” by 1 1/2”
3/4” Wood or Plywood
1st End Sub Top Trim
2
71” by 1 1/2”
3/4” Wood or Plywood
2nd Front & Back Sub Top Trim
2
22 3/4” by 1 1/2”
3/4” Wood or Plywood
2nd End Sub Top Trim
2
36”
1/2” by 3/4” T-Track
Front T-Track
5
24”
1/2” by 3/4” T-Track
End & Top T-Track
1
72” by 3/4” by 1/2”
1/2” Thick MDF or Wood
Front Lower T-Track Trim
2
24” by 3/4” by 1/2”
1/2” Thick MDF or Wood
End Lower T-Track Trim
17
18 1/4” by 1 1/2”
3/4” Wood
Drawer Supports
5
6” by 1 1/2”
3/4” Wood
Small Drawer Supports
10
18 1/4” by 2 1/2”
3/4” Wood
Drawer Side Guides
2
6” by 2 1/2”
3/4” Wood
Small Drawer Side Guides
4
18 1/4” by 3”
3/4” Wood
Lower Drawer Side Guides
6
18 1/4” by 2”
3/4” Wood
Lower Drawer Supports
2
14 1/2” by 2”
3/4” Wood
Lower Back Supports
1
27 1/2” by 2”
3/4” Wood
Center Lower Back Support
4
17 1/2” by 1 1/2”
3/4” Wood
17 1/2” Leveling Block
3
16 3/4” by 1 1/2”
3/4” Wood
16 3/4” Leveling Block
2
30” by 1 1/2”
3/4” Wood
30” Leveling Block
1
10 1/4” by 1 1/2”
3/4” Wood
10 1/4” Leveling Block
1
66 1/2”
2 by 4 (3 1/2” by 1 1/2”)
Stiffener
6
16” by 1 1/2”
3/4” thick wood or plywood
Drawer Trim
2
29 1/4” by 1 1/2”
3/4” thick wood or plywood
Vertical End Trim
1
30” by 1 1/2”
3/4” thick wood or plywood
Middel Trim
x
Materials List - 2 Qty
Size
2
23 1/4” by 1 1/2”
3/4” thick wood or plywood
Vertical Divider Trim
2
65” by 3”
3/4” thick wood or plywood
Upper & Lower Trim
1
3 1/2” by 30 1/2”
3/4” thick wood or plywood
Center Drawer Front
2
3 1/2” by 16 1/2”
3/4” thick wood or plywood
Top Drawer Front
2
4 1/2” by 16 1/2”
3/4” thick wood or plywood
4 1/2” Drawer Front
2
5 1/4” by 16 1/2”
3/4” thick wood or plywood
5 1/4” Drawer Front
2
7” by 16 1/2”
3/4” thick wood or plywood
7” Drawer Front
2
19” by 14 3/4”
3/4” thick wood or plywood
Cabinet Doors
3/4” thick wood or plywood
Door Lip
1
Material
Item name
1
17 1/2” by 11 1/2”
3/4” thick wood or plywood
Router Box Front
6
19” by 2 7/8”
3/4” thick wood or plywood
Top Drawer Sides
4
19” by 3 7/8”
3/4” thick wood or plywood
3 7/8” Drawer Sides
4
19” by 4 7/8”
3/4” thick wood or plywood
4 7/8” Drawer Sides
4
19” by 6 5/8”
3/4” thick wood or plywood
6 5/8” Drawer Sides
2
28 3/8” by 2 7/8”
3/4” thick wood or plywood
Center Drawer Ends
4
14 3/8” by 2 7/8”
3/4” thick wood or plywood
Top Drawer Ends
4
14 3/8” by 3 7/8”
3/4” thick wood or plywood
3 7/8” Drawer Ends
4
14 3/8” by 4 7/8”
3/4” thick wood or plywood
4 7/8” Drawer Ends
4
14 3/8” by 6 5/8”
3/4” thick wood or plywood
6 5/8” Drawer Ends
1
29 1/8” by 18 1/4”
1/4” Hardboard
Center Drawer Bottom
6
15 1/8”” by 18 1/4”
1/4” Hardboard
Drawer Bottom
2
6” by 2 7/8”
3/4” thick wood or plywood
Top Router Tray Sides
2
6” by 3 7/8”
3/4” thick wood or plywood
2nd Router Bit Trays
2
14 7/8” by 6”
1/2” thick material
Router Bit Trays
2
14 7/8” by 6”
1/4” thick material
Router Bit Bottoms
1
18 1/4” by 30”
3/4” plywood
Middle Shelf
xi
End and Center Panels Page 1
End Panel
Middle Panels
(2 Required)
(2 Required)
28 1/4"
29 1/4"
18 1/4"
19"
The two end panels are 1" taller than the center panels. This is because the center panels sit on the top surface of the base and the end panels extend 1/4" below the bottom surface of the base.. The end panels are also 3/4" wider than the center panels. This is so they will be flush with the ends of the back section.
Copyright C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
19"
2"
3/8"
2"
10"
9 1/4"
9 1/2"
9 1/4"
66 1/2"
3/8"
Base
9 1/4"
9 1/4"
18 5/8"
Copyright
C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Cut the base from 3/4" material, then drill and countersink holes for #8 screws as shown in the drawing above. All the screws around the edge are 3/8" from the edge.
18 5/8"
Page 2
Base Dimensions & Layout
9 1/2"
10"
2"
3/8"
2"
3/4"
17 1/2"
22"
17 1/8"
10"
1 1/4"
17 1/2"
Copyright
C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Cut the back from 3/4" material, then drill and countersink holes for #8 screws as shown in the drawing above.
66 1/2"
Back
30 3/4"
Page 3
Back Dimensions & Layout
28 1/4"
24" 72"
T-Track sizes vary from brand to brand. The most common sizes are 3/4" wide by 1/2" deep or 3/4" wide by 3/8" deep. Cut the slots so the track you're using is flush with the top surface.
If you will be using a readymade router fence, you may need to change the spacing of the fence track slots to match your fence.
The T-Track and miter gauge slot dimensions are based on the center of the slots. However, the exact location of these items is strictly a matter of personal choice.
Miter Guage Slot
Fence T- Track Slot
17"
T- Track Slot
T-Track & Miter Slot Cutout Dimensions
10 1/8"
10 1/4"
First, cut the inner opening completely through the top. If you're using a 9 1/4" by 11 3/4" router plate, this inner opening should be 7 3/4" by 10 1/4". The next step is to use your router to create the lip around the sides of the opening. See the detailed instructions on the following page for this step.
This drawing is based on a 9 1/4" by 11 3/4" router plate. If you are using a different size plate, you will need to adjust the size of the opening accordingly. The router plate opening is a two step process. You must cut an inner opening that leaves room for a 3/4" wide lip around all four edges. This lip is what the router plate rests upon.
Router Plate Cutout
10 1/8"
Top Dimensions and Layout Page 4
6 3/4" 30 1/2"
7 3/4" 10"
7"
24"
CopyrightC 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
24"
6"
Copyright
C
3"
Screw Hole Layout
3"
3"
Router Box Cutout
8"
19 3/4"
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio 1 1/8"
Screw Hole Layout
14 5/8"
Sub Top
3"
1 1/8"
8 3/4"
3"
19 3/8"
1 1/8"
15 5/8"
Drill and counter screwholes for #8 flathead screws in the locations shown below.
Router Box Cutout
18"
1 1/8"
3"
68"
Note: This diagram is based on a 9 1/4" by 11 3/4" router plate. If you are using a different size plate, be sure to adjust the opening size accordingly.
Sub Top
Sub Top Dimensions and Layout Page 5
10"
9 1/2"
19 3/8" 16"
26"
14 5/8"
10"
26"
16"
9 1/2"
1 1/2"
1 1/2"
3/4"
3/4"
1 1/2"
45°
71"
2nd Front & Back Sub Top Trim (2 Required)
22 3/4"
45° 2nd End Sub Top Trim (2 Required)
69 1/2"
1st Front & Back Sub Top Trim (2 Required)
45°
23 1/4"
End T-Track (2 Required)
45°
45°
23 3/4"
End T-Track Trim (2 Required)
Copyright
45°
C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
72"
Front T-Track Trim (1 Required)
The T-Track trim is made of 1/2" thick by 3/4" high material. This because the T-Track is 1/2" by 3/4".
35 1/2"
Front T-Track (2 Required)
If you have a pocket hole jig, I reccommend drilling pocket holes in the 2nd Sub Top Trim pieces as shown. These pocket holes will be used to secure the Top to the Sub Top. The exact location of the pocket holes is not critical. The important thing is that they do not line up with the screw holes in your T-Track. If you do not have a pocket hole jig, the Top can be secured with finishing nails or glue.
45°
21 1/4"
1st End Sub Top Trim (2 Required)
45°
45°
The Sub Top trim is made of 3/4" thick by 1 1/2" high material. This because the T-Track is 1/2" by 3/4".
Page 6
Top Trim &T-Track
1 1/2"
45°
45°
45°
Drawer Slides / Stiffener / Misc Small Parts Page 7
Small Drawer Supports (5) 1 1/2"
Drawer Supports (17)
1 1/2"
18 1/4"
6"
Small Drawer Side Guides (2) Drawer Side Guides (10)
2 1/2"
18 1/4"
3"
6"
Lower Drawer Side Guides (4)
2"
18 1/4"
Lower Drawer Supports (6) 18 1/4" 66 1/2"
2"
Lower Back Supports (2)
Center Lower Back Supports (1)
2"
14 1/2"
1 1/2"
27 1/2"
17 1/2" Leveling Blocks (4) 17 1/2"
1 1/2"
16 3/4" Leveling Blocks (3)
Stiffener (Make the stiffener from 1 1/2" thick material)
2 1/2"
16 3/4"
10 1/4" Leveling Block (1) 1 1/2"
30" Leveling Blocks (2)
1 1/2"
30"
10 1/4"
3 1/2" Copyright C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Drawer Fronts, Front Trim, and Doors Page 8 1 1/2"
Drawer Trim (6)
1 1/2"
Vertical End Trim (2)
16"
1 1/2"
29 1/4"
1 1/2"
Middle Trim (1)
Vertical Divider Trim (2)
30"
23 1/4"
Upper & Lower Trim (2)
3"
65"
Middle Door Trim (1)
2"
18 1/2"
Drawer Fronts Dimensions
Router Box Dimensions
3 1/2" Center Drawer Front (1) 30 1/2" 4 1/2"
3 1/2"
5 1/4"
Router Box Bottom (1)
11 1/2"
Top Drawer Fronts (2)
4 1/2" Drawer Fronts (2)
16 1/2"
16 1/2"
16"
5 1/4" Drawer Fronts (2)
16 1/2"
17 1/2" 19"
Cabinet Doors (2) Router Box Front (1) 11 1/2"
7"
7" Drawer Fronts (2)
3/4" 1"
16 1/2"
14 3/4"
Copyright C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Drawer Boxes Dimensions Page 9 3 7/8"
2 7/8"
19"
6 5/8"
19"
6 5/8" Drawer Sides (4) 4 7/8"
1/4"
4 7/8" Drawer Sides (4)
3/8" 19"
19" 1/4"
2 7/8"
2 7/8" Center Drawer Ends (2)
Top Drawer Ends (4)
28 3/8"
14 3/8"
3 7/8" 3 7/8" Drawer Ends (4)
4 7/8"
4 7/8" Drawer Ends (4)
14 3/8"
6 5/8"
14 3/8"
14 3/8"
Center Drawer Bottom (1) 18 1/4"
6 5/8" Drawer Ends (4)
Drawer Bottoms (6) 18 1/4"
29 1/8"
Copyright C
15 1/8"
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Detail View - Drawer Bottom Cutout
3 7/8" Drawer Sides (4)
Top Drawer Sides (6)
Router Bit Trays Page 10
Top Router Tray Sides (2)
3 7/8"
6"
3 7/8"
2nd Router Tray Sides (End View)
Top Router Tray Sides (End View)
2 7/8"
6"
1 1/2" 1/2"
3 7/8"
2 1/2"
1/2"
2nd Router Tray Sides (2)
1/4"
1/4"
The tray sides are made from 3/4" material. The heights of the sides are 2 7/8" and 3 7/8" respectively. This provides 1/8" of top clearance in the drawer openings.
1/4"
Cut 1/2" wide by 1/4" deep slots for the router trays in the sides as shown. Then cut a 1/4" rabbit on the bottom of each side as shown. The 1/4" rabbits are for the bottoms. The bottoms are necessary so the router bits cannot protude past the bottom of the drawer opening.
Router Bit Tray - Bottom (2)
Router Bit Tray (2) 1/2" thick material
6"
14 7/8"
1/4" thick material
14 7/8"
Cut two 6" by 14 7/8" router bits trays from 1/2" thick material and two bottoms from 1/4" thick material as shown above. Drill several 1/4" and 1/2" holes for your router bits in the 1/2" thick sections. The exact location of the holes is strictly a matter of preference. I put the holes about 1 1/2" apart in the prototype. Copyright C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
1/4"
Middle Shelves Dimensions Page 11
Middle Shelf 18 1/4"
30"
Lower Track Support (2)
2 3/4"
18"
(Lower Track Support is made of 1 1/2" thick material.)
1"
Lower Track Trim (2)
18"
(Lower Track Trim is made of 1/2" thick material.)
Copyright C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Attach Drawer Slides Left Section - Left Panel Page 12
19" 3"
Le
5"
D
er raw
D
10 1/2"
l ve
B in g
er raw
er aw r D
17" er aw r D Dr
25 1/4"
e aw
Dr Dr
L
L
ort pp u S
Sid
4"
e u id G e
ort pp u S
5" ide Gu e Sid
rt po up S r
er aw
er aw
e ow
k loc
6 3/4"
ide Gu e Sid ort pp u S
r rD
D er ow
e aw
ide Gu e id rS
e raw
up rS
rt po
ft E e L
nd
l ne a P
1" Copyright C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Attach Drawer Slides Left Section - Right Panel Page 13
18 1/4"
Dr aw Dr aw
er
Dr aw
Dr aw
er
er
Dr aw
Lo w
er
er
Dr aw
Dr aw
er
er
Lo w
Su pp o Sid e
er
10 1/2"
rt
rt
er S
Dr aw
Copyright C
5"
Gu id e
Su pp o
Dr aw
rt
3"
Gu id e
Su pp o
Sid e
er
Gu id e
Su pp o
Sid e
rt
17"
ide
er S
Gu id e
up po rt
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
25 1/4"
Attach Drawer Slides Center Section - Left Panel Page 14
3"
k loc B ling e v Le
6"
ort pp u S er w a Dr
ort pp u S er w a Dr
13 3/4"
26 1/4"
r we Lo
Copyright C
rt po p Su er w a Dr
Left Inside Panel
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
6 1/4"
11"
Attach Drawer Slides Center Section - Right Panel Page 15
Le ve lin gB loc
Dr aw er S
Dr aw er S
k
up po rt
Lo we rD raw er S
Right Inside Panel
Copyright C
6"
up po rt
13 3/4"
26 1/4"
up po rt
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Attach Drawer Slides - Right Section - Left Panel Page 16
3" 6
5"
up "S
rt po
3"
ide Gu e Sid 6" ort pp u S 6"
10 1/2"
D
4"
er raw
Sid
e u id G e
er aw r D
ort pp u S
ide Gu e Sid er w a ort Dr pp u S er aw r D
17"
r we Lo
25 1/4"
L
Copyright C
D
er raw
D er ow
Sid
e raw
e u id G e
up rS
rt po
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Attach Drawer Slides Right Section - Right Panel Page 17
11 1
/2"
Le ve ler
6" L
ev ele r
6" S
3"
up p
6" S 6" S Dr aw
5"
Dr aw
er
Dr aw Dr aw
6 3/4"
Lo w
Lo w
er
er
Sid e
Su pp o
er
er
Dr aw
Dr aw
er
Sid e
er S
ide
up p
5" Gu id e
ort
10 1/2"
Gu id e rt
4"
Gu id e
Su pp o
er S
ide
ort
17"
rt
25 1/4"
Gu id e
up po rt
Right Section - Right Panel 1"
Copyright C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Attach the Panels to the Base Page 18
17 1/2"
30"
17 1/2"
Copyright C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Attach theStiffener & Casters to the Base Page 19
Attach the casters to the base as shown. Then position the stiffener as close to the front as possible while still allowing clearance for the swival casters to rotate. Mark the position of the stiffener, then drill about six holes for #8 wood screws through the base. Apply some glue and secure the stiffener to the base with 2" #8 screws. The screw heads will be inside cabinet below the drawers so it doesn't matter if you use flathead or pan head screws..
r ne ffe i t S
Copyright C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Attach The Back Page 20
h wit e s ba nd a ls ane p l ica n. ert show v s he o t ews a t k r bac ad sc e h t the ach 8 fla t t A "# 1/2
Copyright C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
1
Attach the Router Box Bottom & Middle Shelf Page 21
Attach the router box bottom to the drawer slides.
Attach the middle shelf to the supports. ute Ro
d Mi
Copyright C
elf Sh e dl
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
B ox rB
om ott
Attach the Router Box Front Page 22
Attach the router box front to the router box bottom and to the rear end surface of the drawer slides.
Copyright C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Assemble the Face Frame Page 23
Don't forget! The pocket holes go on the back side of the face frame.
Assemble the front trim pieces (face frame) as shown. Be sure the horizontal drawer separator pieces are properly spaced so they line up with the drawer slides. The top of each piece of horizontal drawer separator trim should be flush with the top of a drawer slide. Pocket holes are the easiest way to join trim or face frames as they are often called. if you don't have a pocket hole jig, you can use dowel joints. Copyright C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Attach the FaceFrame to the Cabinet Page 24
Attach the assembled face frame to the cabinet with finishing nails. Then, countersink and fill the nail holes with wood putty.
Copyright C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Attach the Leveling Blocks to the End and Center Panels Page 25
Now, you are ready to attach the leveling blocks. This is the way you ensure that the top is perfectly flat when the workbench is completed. First, drill three 1/4" diameter holes completely through each leveling block, (the two shortest ones only need two holes). The exact location of the holes is not critical. Drill a hole about 2" from each end and one in the middle of each leveling block. To keep the glue from setting before you're finished, it's best to attach the end and center panel leveling blocks first and ensure they are level with each other before attaching the front and rear ones. Apply some glue to the mating faces and attach the end and center panel leveling blocks using 1 1/2" #8 pan head screws with flat washers as shown. Do not tighten the screws yet as the blocks must be leveled first. After all the blocks are in place, use a straight edge to ensure the top surfaces of all the leveling blocks are level with each other. If you have a four foot level, that would work great.
The important thing is that the top surfaces of the leveling blocks be level with each other. This will provide a flat surface to mount the sub top to. When all the blocks are level, tighten the screws and recheck that they did not move. Copyright C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Attach the Front & Rear Leveling Blocks Page 26
Apply glue to the mating surfaces and attach the front and rear leveling blocks as shown in the diagram. Use your straight edge to ensure the tops are even with the tops of the end and center leveling blocks. Then tighten the screws.
Copyright C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Attach the Sub Top to the Cabinet Page 27
Attach the Sub Top with 1 1/2" #8 flathead screws. The Sub Top should be flush to the edges of the cabinet on all four sides.
Copyright C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Attach the Inner Sub Top Trim Page 28
Attach the Inner Sub Top Trim to the Sub Top with 1 1/2" #8 flathead screws. Be sure the top of the trim is flush with the top surface of the Sub Top.
Copyright C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Attach the Middle Trim to the Inner Sub Top Trim Page 29
Attach the Middle Sub Top Trim to the Inner Sub Top Trim with 1 1/2" #8 flathead screws. Be sure to space these screws so they don't interfere with the screws in the inner trim or the T-Track which will be attched to the Middle Sub Top trim. The pocket holes will be used to attach the edges of the top to the trim.
Copyright C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Attach the Top to the Sub Top Page 30
Attach the Top to the Sub Top with 1" #8 flathead screws through the cutouts for the T-Track and Miter guage track. Secure the edges of the top with pocket hole screws through the holes you drilled through the Inner Sub Top Trim. If you don't have a pocket hole jig, you can glue the Top to the Sub Top. However, gluing it will make it much more difficult to replace the top in the future if you need to. Note: The dimensions given in these plans are based using T-Track that is 3/4" wide and 1/2" thick. If your T-Track is a different size, you will need to modify the thickness of the inner trim accordingly.
Pocket Hole Screws
Copyright C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Attach the T-Track & Miter track to the Top Page 31
Attach the T-Track to the top as shown with 1" #6 screws. Some manufacturers countersink the holes for mounting the track and others do not. From my experience, I prefer flathead screws with countersunk holes. This keeps the screw heads from interfering with the bolts sliding through the track. The track I used for the prototype was designed for pan head screws, so I countersunk them on my drill press. The miter guage track is not subject to much stress so you can glue it in the slot. If you use screws, be sure the screw heads are below the surface so the miter guage does not hang up on them. I would not reccommend polyurethane glues because they expand as they set up. The expanding glue would lift the miter track up above the surface of the workbench top. A construction adhesive like liquid nails works fine.
Top T-Track Miter Guage Track
Attach the Lower Track Support to the left side of the cabinet with six 2" #8 flathead screws. Position this piece so it is 1" below the Sub Top Trim and centered front to back. Copyright C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Attach the T-Track to the Edges of the Front and Ends Page 32
Attach the edge T-Track on each end and along the front to the middle Sub Top Trim with 1" #6 screws. Position this T-Track under the bottom surface of the Top as shown in the detail drawing. T-Track joins at the corners like this so you can slide the bolts in and out.
End T-Track
Detail
End T-Track
Front T-Track
Attach the Lower T-Track to the Lower T-Track Support. The T-Track should be centered top to bottom. Copyright C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Attach the Lower Front Trim to the Front and Ends Page 33
Attach the Lower Top Trim on each end and along the front to the middle Sub Top Trim with 1 1/2" finishing nails. If you cut the top a little larger than the dimensions called for, you can trim it with your router and a flush trimming bit. Use the Lower Top Trim for the bit bearing to follow. The Lower Top Trim joins at the corners like this.
Detail
Lower Trim
Lower Trim
Attach the Lower Track Trim with finishing nails.
Copyright C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Assemble the Drawers Page 34
Apply a little glue to the mating surfaces and assemble the drawer boxes. Left Side Right Side
Back
Front
Step 1
Step 2
Step 3
Assemble the front, back, and right side with finishing nails as shown in Step 1. Insert the bottom as shown in Step 2. Attach the left side as shown in Step 3.
Step 5
Step 4
Support the drawer boxes with 1/4" thick strips of wood and attach the drawer fronts with 1 1/8" screws as shown. This is necessary because the bottom of the front must be 1/4" below the bottom of the box so it will overlap the rear cabinet trim when installed.
Copyright
C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Assemble the Router Bit Trays Page 34
Assemble the Router trays with finishing nails as shown above.
Attach the drawer fronts to the router tray fronts with pocket hole screws on each side as shown. Don't forget to support the trays with 1/4" thick strips of wood while you attach the fronts. As with the drawers, the bottom of the fronts must be 1/4" below the bottom of the trays so the fronts will overlap the cabinet trim when installed.
Copyright
C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Attach the Cabinet Doors Page 36
Attach the cabinet doors so the tops align with the tops of the drawers and the sides align with the ends of the middle drawer as shown above.
Copyright C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Attach the Middle Door trim Page 37
Attach the Middle Door Lip to the back of either of the cabinet doors so half of it is visible as shown. Attach it to the back of the door with a couple of 1" wood screws. The left door is not pictured in the drawing for clarity. This piece serves as a door lip so there is no visible gap between the doors. Now, you're ready to attach the Drawer and Door handles and your work bench is finished.
Copyright C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Clamping System Parts Page 38 3/8" Button Hole 5/16" Bolt Hole
2"
2 3/4"
Clamp Jaws (2)
3 1/2
"
4 1/2"
Clamp Jaw Layout (Side 1)
Clamp Jaw Layout (Side 2)
5/8"
1 1/2"
3"
3"
Rear Stop
2 3/4" Dia - 5/16"
24"
1 3/4"
3 1/2"
1 1/2"
EZ Clamp Stop
2"
End View
2"
3/8" Button Hole
1 3/4" Dia - 5/16"
28"
2" Post (2)
Drill two pocket holes in each Post as shown below. Next, drill two 1/4" diameter holes in the end of each Post as shown. (The 1/4" holes should only be 1/2" deep.)
2"
Jaws (2)
2 1/2"
4"
1/2"
Drill a 5/16" bolt through each jaw as shown. Next, drill two 5/16" holes for the dowel pins in each Jaw as shown. (The dowel pin holes are 5/16" diameter so the Jaws can pivot over the pins. These holes should be 1/2" deep.)
3/8" 2 1/4" 1/2"
Dia - 5/16"
Jaws
Posts Copyright C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Assemble the EZ Mount Stop Page 39
Attach the Posts to the ends of the Stop Bar with pocket hole screws as shown below. Next, cut four 7/8" long dowel pins from 1/4" dowel rod. Apply some glue and insert a 1/4" dowel pin into each hole in the ends of the Posts. (The dowel pins should protude about 3/8" from the ends of the Posts.)
Place the Jaws over the protuding dowel pins as shown above. (Do not glue the dowel pins to the Jaws as the Jaws must be allowed to pivot in order to work as clamps.) Insert a 5/16 carriage bolt through the holes as shown. (The carriage bolt should be 5" long. Secure the pieces with a flat washer and knob.
Copyright C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Clamping System Usage Page 40
The T-Track clamping system provides a flexible way of clamping both large and small work pieces. Most work pieces can be clamped using the two Clamp Jaws and the Rear Stop. The Clamp Jaws are used with the T-Track that runs along the front edge of the workbench. The Rear Stop is used with the T-Track that is embedded in the top surface of the workbench. For longer workpieces, you can use the the Clamp Jaws with the T-Track on the ends of the workbench. The EZ Mount Stop may be secured anywhere along the workbench top. The simple clamps on each end of the EZ Mount Stop grip the edge of the workbench top as well as C-Clamps. This feature enables you to use the workbench as a large bar clamp for gluing up boards. You can make the clamping system grip the work piece even tighter by gluing strips of 100 grit sandpaper along the edges that contact the workpiece. The sandpaper requires much less force than the surface of bare wood. The button arrangement on the Clamp Jaws allows you to filp the Clamp Jaws over for thicker work pieces. The drawings on the next two pages illustrates how the clamps work. To clamp a work piece, position the workpiece so the edge protudes slightly over the edge of the workbench top as shown. Then, position the Rear Stop against the workpiece and tighten it to T-Track using the knobs. Next, tighten the Clamp Jaws against the workpiece with the knobs and your work piece will be clamped just like with a vice. For thinner workpieces, position the Clamp Jaws and Rear Stop as shown. If your workpiece is thinner than 3/4", you can place strips of wood under the work piece so it is slightly higher than the top edges of the Clamp Jaws. For thicker workpieces, flip the Clamp Jaws so the second button is against the Lower T-Track Trim and reverse the Rear Stop so the thicker edge is against the workpiece.
Copyright C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Using the Clamps Page 41
For thinner workpieces, position the Clamp Jaws and Rear Stop as shown. Second Button Rear Stop
Clamp Jaw Workpiece
Button T-Track
For thicker workpieces, flip the Clamp Jaw so the second button is against the Lower T-Track Trim and reverse the Rear Stop so the thicker edge is against the workpiece. Button
Workpiece
Rear Stop
Clamp Jaw
Second Button T-Track
Copyright C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Clamping Long Workpieces Page 41
To clamp long work pieces, use the Clamping Jaws and EZ Mount Stop as shown.
Copyright c
by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Snapshots
Clamping a small work piece
Clamping a large work piece
Clamping a thick work piece
Close up view of the Woodpeckers Quick-Lift. Clamp a large work piece Hold down clamps.
Clamping a work light.
Arranging the jaws for use with the EZ Mount Stop. The purple edge is the 100 grit sandpaper used to make the stop grip the work piece tighter.
Garage Workbench Plans
Every home woodworker knows the importance of making efficient use of the available space in his or her shop. This workbench is designed to provide the maximum functionality using the minimum amount of space possible. It provides a work surface of about six feet by two feet and is about 35” in height. Just the right size to provide ample work space for most projects. The features that make this workbench ideal for the home shop are the built in clamping system, the built in router table, the nine drawers, the center cabinet space, and the mobility. The four inch casters enable you to easily roll it into position when needed and roll it aside when it is not in use. The top surface is made of two layers of 3/4” MDF. This provides an extremely flat work surface and since it is also a router table, a flat work surface is a must. The T-track inlaid in the top and around the edges makes the entire work surface a versatile clamping system that easily clamps very small or very large work pieces.
Copyright © 2006 by Robert E. Reedy All Rights Reserved This document may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the author.
Table of Contents - 1
Dimensions Drawings Materials List - 1 ......................................................................................................x Materials List - 2 ......................................................................................................x End and Center Panels ............................................................................................. 1 Base Dimensions & Layout ..................................................................................... 2 Back Dimensions & Layout .................................................................................... 3 Top Dimensions & Layout ...................................................................................... 4 Sub Top Dimensions & Layout .............................................................................. 5 Top Trim and T-Track ............................................................................................. 6 Drawer Slides, Stiffener, Misc. Small Parts ............................................................ 7 Drawer Fronts, Front Trim, and Doors ................................................................... 8 Drawer Boxes Dimensions ...................................................................................... 9 Router Bit Trays .................................................................................................... 10 Middle Shelf .......................................................................................................... 11
Table of Contents - 2
Assembly Instructions Drawer Slides - Left Section - Left Panel ............................................................. 12 Drawer Slides - Left Section - Right Panel ........................................................... 13 Drawer Slides - Center Section - Left Panel ......................................................... 14 Drawer Slides - Center Section -Right Panel ........................................................ 15 Drawer Slides - Right Section - Left Panel ........................................................... 16 Drawer Slides - Right Section - Right Panel ......................................................... 17 Base to Panels ........................................................................................................ 18 Stiffener - Casters .................................................................................................. 19 Attach the Back ..................................................................................................... 20 Router Box Bottom & Shelf .................................................................................. 21 Router Box Front ................................................................................................... 22 Assemble the Face Frame ...................................................................................... 23 Attach the Face Frame ........................................................................................... 24 Attach the Leveling Blocks to the Panels .............................................................. 25 Attach the Front & Rear Leveling Blocks ............................................................. 26 Attach the Sub Top ................................................................................................ 27 Attach the Inner Trim ............................................................................................ 28 Attach the Middle Trim ......................................................................................... 29 Attach the Top ....................................................................................................... 30 Attach the Track to the Top ................................................................................... 31 Attach the Track to the Front & Ends ................................................................... 32 Attach the Lower Trim .......................................................................................... 33 Assemble the Drawer Boxes & Fronts .................................................................. 34 Assemble the Router Trays ................................................................................... 35 Attach Cabinet Doors ............................................................................................ 36 Attach Middle Door trim ....................................................................................... 37 Clamping System Parts ......................................................................................... 38 Assemble the EZ Mount Stop ............................................................................... 39 Clamping System Usage Instructions .................................................................... 40 Clamping System Illustrations .............................................................................. 41 Snapshots ............................................................................................................... 42
Tools and Accessories You’ll Need Note: Images and underlined text are active web links.
Mast-R-Lift is precision-engineered to within .002" tolerance and CNC-machined from 1" solid aluminum to eliminate bending and sagging. Built-in insert adjusters allow for snugging the lift in your table for a perfect fit, while the built-in leveling system will not wear into the table's recessed opening Plate measures 9-1/4" x 11-3/4" x 3/8". Adjustments are made with a drop-in speed handle that's elevated from the table.
Low Cost Lift for Plunge Routers
Low Cost Router Fence
Mini Pocket Hole Jig
Rockler/JessEm Lift
4 Piece Router Accessory kit
T-Track Kit
Hold Down Clamp Kit
Large Router Plate
Kreg Master System
Shop Casters
Materials List - 1 Qty
Size
2
29 1/4” by 19”
2
28 1/4” by 18 1/4”
1
Material
Item name
3/4” Oak Plywood
End Panels
3/4” Plywood
Middle Panels
66 1/2” by 19”
3/4” Plywood
Base
1
66 1/2” by 28 1/4”
3/4” Plywood
Back
1
72” by 24”
3/4” MDF Board
Top
1
68” by 19 3/4”
3/4” MDF Board
Sub Top
2
69 1/2” by 1 1/2”
3/4” Wood or Plywood
1st Front & Back Sub Top Trim
2
21 1/4” ” by 1 1/2”
3/4” Wood or Plywood
1st End Sub Top Trim
2
71” by 1 1/2”
3/4” Wood or Plywood
2nd Front & Back Sub Top Trim
2
22 3/4” by 1 1/2”
3/4” Wood or Plywood
2nd End Sub Top Trim
2
36”
1/2” by 3/4” T-Track
Front T-Track
5
24”
1/2” by 3/4” T-Track
End & Top T-Track
1
72” by 3/4” by 1/2”
1/2” Thick MDF or Wood
Front Lower T-Track Trim
2
24” by 3/4” by 1/2”
1/2” Thick MDF or Wood
End Lower T-Track Trim
17
18 1/4” by 1 1/2”
3/4” Wood
Drawer Supports
5
6” by 1 1/2”
3/4” Wood
Small Drawer Supports
10
18 1/4” by 2 1/2”
3/4” Wood
Drawer Side Guides
2
6” by 2 1/2”
3/4” Wood
Small Drawer Side Guides
4
18 1/4” by 3”
3/4” Wood
Lower Drawer Side Guides
6
18 1/4” by 2”
3/4” Wood
Lower Drawer Supports
2
14 1/2” by 2”
3/4” Wood
Lower Back Supports
1
27 1/2” by 2”
3/4” Wood
Center Lower Back Support
4
17 1/2” by 1 1/2”
3/4” Wood
17 1/2” Leveling Block
3
16 3/4” by 1 1/2”
3/4” Wood
16 3/4” Leveling Block
2
30” by 1 1/2”
3/4” Wood
30” Leveling Block
1
10 1/4” by 1 1/2”
3/4” Wood
10 1/4” Leveling Block
1
66 1/2”
2 by 4 (3 1/2” by 1 1/2”)
Stiffener
6
16” by 1 1/2”
3/4” thick wood or plywood
Drawer Trim
2
29 1/4” by 1 1/2”
3/4” thick wood or plywood
Vertical End Trim
1
30” by 1 1/2”
3/4” thick wood or plywood
Middel Trim
x
Materials List - 2 Qty
Size
2
23 1/4” by 1 1/2”
3/4” thick wood or plywood
Vertical Divider Trim
2
65” by 3”
3/4” thick wood or plywood
Upper & Lower Trim
1
3 1/2” by 30 1/2”
3/4” thick wood or plywood
Center Drawer Front
2
3 1/2” by 16 1/2”
3/4” thick wood or plywood
Top Drawer Front
2
4 1/2” by 16 1/2”
3/4” thick wood or plywood
4 1/2” Drawer Front
2
5 1/4” by 16 1/2”
3/4” thick wood or plywood
5 1/4” Drawer Front
2
7” by 16 1/2”
3/4” thick wood or plywood
7” Drawer Front
2
19” by 14 3/4”
3/4” thick wood or plywood
Cabinet Doors
3/4” thick wood or plywood
Door Lip
1
Material
Item name
1
17 1/2” by 11 1/2”
3/4” thick wood or plywood
Router Box Front
6
19” by 2 7/8”
3/4” thick wood or plywood
Top Drawer Sides
4
19” by 3 7/8”
3/4” thick wood or plywood
3 7/8” Drawer Sides
4
19” by 4 7/8”
3/4” thick wood or plywood
4 7/8” Drawer Sides
4
19” by 6 5/8”
3/4” thick wood or plywood
6 5/8” Drawer Sides
2
28 3/8” by 2 7/8”
3/4” thick wood or plywood
Center Drawer Ends
4
14 3/8” by 2 7/8”
3/4” thick wood or plywood
Top Drawer Ends
4
14 3/8” by 3 7/8”
3/4” thick wood or plywood
3 7/8” Drawer Ends
4
14 3/8” by 4 7/8”
3/4” thick wood or plywood
4 7/8” Drawer Ends
4
14 3/8” by 6 5/8”
3/4” thick wood or plywood
6 5/8” Drawer Ends
1
29 1/8” by 18 1/4”
1/4” Hardboard
Center Drawer Bottom
6
15 1/8”” by 18 1/4”
1/4” Hardboard
Drawer Bottom
2
6” by 2 7/8”
3/4” thick wood or plywood
Top Router Tray Sides
2
6” by 3 7/8”
3/4” thick wood or plywood
2nd Router Bit Trays
2
14 7/8” by 6”
1/2” thick material
Router Bit Trays
2
14 7/8” by 6”
1/4” thick material
Router Bit Bottoms
1
18 1/4” by 30”
3/4” plywood
Middle Shelf
xi
End and Center Panels Page 1
End Panel
Middle Panels
(2 Required)
(2 Required)
28 1/4"
29 1/4"
18 1/4"
19"
The two end panels are 1" taller than the center panels. This is because the center panels sit on the top surface of the base and the end panels extend 1/4" below the bottom surface of the base.. The end panels are also 3/4" wider than the center panels. This is so they will be flush with the ends of the back section.
Copyright C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
19"
2"
3/8"
2"
10"
9 1/4"
9 1/2"
9 1/4"
66 1/2"
3/8"
Base
9 1/4"
9 1/4"
18 5/8"
Copyright
C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Cut the base from 3/4" material, then drill and countersink holes for #8 screws as shown in the drawing above. All the screws around the edge are 3/8" from the edge.
18 5/8"
Page 2
Base Dimensions & Layout
9 1/2"
10"
2"
3/8"
2"
3/4"
17 1/2"
22"
17 1/8"
10"
1 1/4"
17 1/2"
Copyright
C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Cut the back from 3/4" material, then drill and countersink holes for #8 screws as shown in the drawing above.
66 1/2"
Back
30 3/4"
Page 3
Back Dimensions & Layout
28 1/4"
24" 72"
T-Track sizes vary from brand to brand. The most common sizes are 3/4" wide by 1/2" deep or 3/4" wide by 3/8" deep. Cut the slots so the track you're using is flush with the top surface.
If you will be using a readymade router fence, you may need to change the spacing of the fence track slots to match your fence.
The T-Track and miter gauge slot dimensions are based on the center of the slots. However, the exact location of these items is strictly a matter of personal choice.
Miter Guage Slot
Fence T- Track Slot
17"
T- Track Slot
T-Track & Miter Slot Cutout Dimensions
10 1/8"
10 1/4"
First, cut the inner opening completely through the top. If you're using a 9 1/4" by 11 3/4" router plate, this inner opening should be 7 3/4" by 10 1/4". The next step is to use your router to create the lip around the sides of the opening. See the detailed instructions on the following page for this step.
This drawing is based on a 9 1/4" by 11 3/4" router plate. If you are using a different size plate, you will need to adjust the size of the opening accordingly. The router plate opening is a two step process. You must cut an inner opening that leaves room for a 3/4" wide lip around all four edges. This lip is what the router plate rests upon.
Router Plate Cutout
10 1/8"
Top Dimensions and Layout Page 4
6 3/4" 30 1/2"
7 3/4" 10"
7"
24"
CopyrightC 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
24"
6"
Copyright
C
3"
Screw Hole Layout
3"
3"
Router Box Cutout
8"
19 3/4"
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio 1 1/8"
Screw Hole Layout
14 5/8"
Sub Top
3"
1 1/8"
8 3/4"
3"
19 3/8"
1 1/8"
15 5/8"
Drill and counter screwholes for #8 flathead screws in the locations shown below.
Router Box Cutout
18"
1 1/8"
3"
68"
Note: This diagram is based on a 9 1/4" by 11 3/4" router plate. If you are using a different size plate, be sure to adjust the opening size accordingly.
Sub Top
Sub Top Dimensions and Layout Page 5
10"
9 1/2"
19 3/8" 16"
26"
14 5/8"
10"
26"
16"
9 1/2"
1 1/2"
1 1/2"
3/4"
3/4"
1 1/2"
45°
71"
2nd Front & Back Sub Top Trim (2 Required)
22 3/4"
45° 2nd End Sub Top Trim (2 Required)
69 1/2"
1st Front & Back Sub Top Trim (2 Required)
45°
23 1/4"
End T-Track (2 Required)
45°
45°
23 3/4"
End T-Track Trim (2 Required)
Copyright
45°
C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
72"
Front T-Track Trim (1 Required)
The T-Track trim is made of 1/2" thick by 3/4" high material. This because the T-Track is 1/2" by 3/4".
35 1/2"
Front T-Track (2 Required)
If you have a pocket hole jig, I reccommend drilling pocket holes in the 2nd Sub Top Trim pieces as shown. These pocket holes will be used to secure the Top to the Sub Top. The exact location of the pocket holes is not critical. The important thing is that they do not line up with the screw holes in your T-Track. If you do not have a pocket hole jig, the Top can be secured with finishing nails or glue.
45°
21 1/4"
1st End Sub Top Trim (2 Required)
45°
45°
The Sub Top trim is made of 3/4" thick by 1 1/2" high material. This because the T-Track is 1/2" by 3/4".
Page 6
Top Trim &T-Track
1 1/2"
45°
45°
45°
Drawer Slides / Stiffener / Misc Small Parts Page 7
Small Drawer Supports (5) 1 1/2"
Drawer Supports (17)
1 1/2"
18 1/4"
6"
Small Drawer Side Guides (2) Drawer Side Guides (10)
2 1/2"
18 1/4"
3"
6"
Lower Drawer Side Guides (4)
2"
18 1/4"
Lower Drawer Supports (6) 18 1/4" 66 1/2"
2"
Lower Back Supports (2)
Center Lower Back Supports (1)
2"
14 1/2"
1 1/2"
27 1/2"
17 1/2" Leveling Blocks (4) 17 1/2"
1 1/2"
16 3/4" Leveling Blocks (3)
Stiffener (Make the stiffener from 1 1/2" thick material)
2 1/2"
16 3/4"
10 1/4" Leveling Block (1) 1 1/2"
30" Leveling Blocks (2)
1 1/2"
30"
10 1/4"
3 1/2" Copyright C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Drawer Fronts, Front Trim, and Doors Page 8 1 1/2"
Drawer Trim (6)
1 1/2"
Vertical End Trim (2)
16"
1 1/2"
29 1/4"
1 1/2"
Middle Trim (1)
Vertical Divider Trim (2)
30"
23 1/4"
Upper & Lower Trim (2)
3"
65"
Middle Door Trim (1)
2"
18 1/2"
Drawer Fronts Dimensions
Router Box Dimensions
3 1/2" Center Drawer Front (1) 30 1/2" 4 1/2"
3 1/2"
5 1/4"
Router Box Bottom (1)
11 1/2"
Top Drawer Fronts (2)
4 1/2" Drawer Fronts (2)
16 1/2"
16 1/2"
16"
5 1/4" Drawer Fronts (2)
16 1/2"
17 1/2" 19"
Cabinet Doors (2) Router Box Front (1) 11 1/2"
7"
7" Drawer Fronts (2)
3/4" 1"
16 1/2"
14 3/4"
Copyright C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Drawer Boxes Dimensions Page 9 3 7/8"
2 7/8"
19"
6 5/8"
19"
6 5/8" Drawer Sides (4) 4 7/8"
1/4"
4 7/8" Drawer Sides (4)
3/8" 19"
19" 1/4"
2 7/8"
2 7/8" Center Drawer Ends (2)
Top Drawer Ends (4)
28 3/8"
14 3/8"
3 7/8" 3 7/8" Drawer Ends (4)
4 7/8"
4 7/8" Drawer Ends (4)
14 3/8"
6 5/8"
14 3/8"
14 3/8"
Center Drawer Bottom (1) 18 1/4"
6 5/8" Drawer Ends (4)
Drawer Bottoms (6) 18 1/4"
29 1/8"
Copyright C
15 1/8"
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Detail View - Drawer Bottom Cutout
3 7/8" Drawer Sides (4)
Top Drawer Sides (6)
Router Bit Trays Page 10
Top Router Tray Sides (2)
3 7/8"
6"
3 7/8"
2nd Router Tray Sides (End View)
Top Router Tray Sides (End View)
2 7/8"
6"
1 1/2" 1/2"
3 7/8"
2 1/2"
1/2"
2nd Router Tray Sides (2)
1/4"
1/4"
The tray sides are made from 3/4" material. The heights of the sides are 2 7/8" and 3 7/8" respectively. This provides 1/8" of top clearance in the drawer openings.
1/4"
Cut 1/2" wide by 1/4" deep slots for the router trays in the sides as shown. Then cut a 1/4" rabbit on the bottom of each side as shown. The 1/4" rabbits are for the bottoms. The bottoms are necessary so the router bits cannot protude past the bottom of the drawer opening.
Router Bit Tray - Bottom (2)
Router Bit Tray (2) 1/2" thick material
6"
14 7/8"
1/4" thick material
14 7/8"
Cut two 6" by 14 7/8" router bits trays from 1/2" thick material and two bottoms from 1/4" thick material as shown above. Drill several 1/4" and 1/2" holes for your router bits in the 1/2" thick sections. The exact location of the holes is strictly a matter of preference. I put the holes about 1 1/2" apart in the prototype. Copyright C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
1/4"
Middle Shelves Dimensions Page 11
Middle Shelf 18 1/4"
30"
Lower Track Support (2)
2 3/4"
18"
(Lower Track Support is made of 1 1/2" thick material.)
1"
Lower Track Trim (2)
18"
(Lower Track Trim is made of 1/2" thick material.)
Copyright C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Attach Drawer Slides Left Section - Left Panel Page 12
19" 3"
Le
5"
D
er raw
D
10 1/2"
l ve
B in g
er raw
er aw r D
17" er aw r D Dr
25 1/4"
e aw
Dr Dr
L
L
ort pp u S
Sid
4"
e u id G e
ort pp u S
5" ide Gu e Sid
rt po up S r
er aw
er aw
e ow
k loc
6 3/4"
ide Gu e Sid ort pp u S
r rD
D er ow
e aw
ide Gu e id rS
e raw
up rS
rt po
ft E e L
nd
l ne a P
1" Copyright C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Attach Drawer Slides Left Section - Right Panel Page 13
18 1/4"
Dr aw Dr aw
er
Dr aw
Dr aw
er
er
Dr aw
Lo w
er
er
Dr aw
Dr aw
er
er
Lo w
Su pp o Sid e
er
10 1/2"
rt
rt
er S
Dr aw
Copyright C
5"
Gu id e
Su pp o
Dr aw
rt
3"
Gu id e
Su pp o
Sid e
er
Gu id e
Su pp o
Sid e
rt
17"
ide
er S
Gu id e
up po rt
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
25 1/4"
Attach Drawer Slides Center Section - Left Panel Page 14
3"
k loc B ling e v Le
6"
ort pp u S er w a Dr
ort pp u S er w a Dr
13 3/4"
26 1/4"
r we Lo
Copyright C
rt po p Su er w a Dr
Left Inside Panel
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
6 1/4"
11"
Attach Drawer Slides Center Section - Right Panel Page 15
Le ve lin gB loc
Dr aw er S
Dr aw er S
k
up po rt
Lo we rD raw er S
Right Inside Panel
Copyright C
6"
up po rt
13 3/4"
26 1/4"
up po rt
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Attach Drawer Slides - Right Section - Left Panel Page 16
3" 6
5"
up "S
rt po
3"
ide Gu e Sid 6" ort pp u S 6"
10 1/2"
D
4"
er raw
Sid
e u id G e
er aw r D
ort pp u S
ide Gu e Sid er w a ort Dr pp u S er aw r D
17"
r we Lo
25 1/4"
L
Copyright C
D
er raw
D er ow
Sid
e raw
e u id G e
up rS
rt po
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Attach Drawer Slides Right Section - Right Panel Page 17
11 1
/2"
Le ve ler
6" L
ev ele r
6" S
3"
up p
6" S 6" S Dr aw
5"
Dr aw
er
Dr aw Dr aw
6 3/4"
Lo w
Lo w
er
er
Sid e
Su pp o
er
er
Dr aw
Dr aw
er
Sid e
er S
ide
up p
5" Gu id e
ort
10 1/2"
Gu id e rt
4"
Gu id e
Su pp o
er S
ide
ort
17"
rt
25 1/4"
Gu id e
up po rt
Right Section - Right Panel 1"
Copyright C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Attach the Panels to the Base Page 18
17 1/2"
30"
17 1/2"
Copyright C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Attach theStiffener & Casters to the Base Page 19
Attach the casters to the base as shown. Then position the stiffener as close to the front as possible while still allowing clearance for the swival casters to rotate. Mark the position of the stiffener, then drill about six holes for #8 wood screws through the base. Apply some glue and secure the stiffener to the base with 2" #8 screws. The screw heads will be inside cabinet below the drawers so it doesn't matter if you use flathead or pan head screws..
r ne ffe i t S
Copyright C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Attach The Back Page 20
h wit e s ba nd a ls ane p l ica n. ert show v s he o t ews a t k r bac ad sc e h t the ach 8 fla t t A "# 1/2
Copyright C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
1
Attach the Router Box Bottom & Middle Shelf Page 21
Attach the router box bottom to the drawer slides.
Attach the middle shelf to the supports. ute Ro
d Mi
Copyright C
elf Sh e dl
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
B ox rB
om ott
Attach the Router Box Front Page 22
Attach the router box front to the router box bottom and to the rear end surface of the drawer slides.
Copyright C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Assemble the Face Frame Page 23
Don't forget! The pocket holes go on the back side of the face frame.
Assemble the front trim pieces (face frame) as shown. Be sure the horizontal drawer separator pieces are properly spaced so they line up with the drawer slides. The top of each piece of horizontal drawer separator trim should be flush with the top of a drawer slide. Pocket holes are the easiest way to join trim or face frames as they are often called. if you don't have a pocket hole jig, you can use dowel joints. Copyright C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Attach the FaceFrame to the Cabinet Page 24
Attach the assembled face frame to the cabinet with finishing nails. Then, countersink and fill the nail holes with wood putty.
Copyright C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Attach the Leveling Blocks to the End and Center Panels Page 25
Now, you are ready to attach the leveling blocks. This is the way you ensure that the top is perfectly flat when the workbench is completed. First, drill three 1/4" diameter holes completely through each leveling block, (the two shortest ones only need two holes). The exact location of the holes is not critical. Drill a hole about 2" from each end and one in the middle of each leveling block. To keep the glue from setting before you're finished, it's best to attach the end and center panel leveling blocks first and ensure they are level with each other before attaching the front and rear ones. Apply some glue to the mating faces and attach the end and center panel leveling blocks using 1 1/2" #8 pan head screws with flat washers as shown. Do not tighten the screws yet as the blocks must be leveled first. After all the blocks are in place, use a straight edge to ensure the top surfaces of all the leveling blocks are level with each other. If you have a four foot level, that would work great.
The important thing is that the top surfaces of the leveling blocks be level with each other. This will provide a flat surface to mount the sub top to. When all the blocks are level, tighten the screws and recheck that they did not move. Copyright C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Attach the Front & Rear Leveling Blocks Page 26
Apply glue to the mating surfaces and attach the front and rear leveling blocks as shown in the diagram. Use your straight edge to ensure the tops are even with the tops of the end and center leveling blocks. Then tighten the screws.
Copyright C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Attach the Sub Top to the Cabinet Page 27
Attach the Sub Top with 1 1/2" #8 flathead screws. The Sub Top should be flush to the edges of the cabinet on all four sides.
Copyright C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Attach the Inner Sub Top Trim Page 28
Attach the Inner Sub Top Trim to the Sub Top with 1 1/2" #8 flathead screws. Be sure the top of the trim is flush with the top surface of the Sub Top.
Copyright C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Attach the Middle Trim to the Inner Sub Top Trim Page 29
Attach the Middle Sub Top Trim to the Inner Sub Top Trim with 1 1/2" #8 flathead screws. Be sure to space these screws so they don't interfere with the screws in the inner trim or the T-Track which will be attched to the Middle Sub Top trim. The pocket holes will be used to attach the edges of the top to the trim.
Copyright C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Attach the Top to the Sub Top Page 30
Attach the Top to the Sub Top with 1" #8 flathead screws through the cutouts for the T-Track and Miter guage track. Secure the edges of the top with pocket hole screws through the holes you drilled through the Inner Sub Top Trim. If you don't have a pocket hole jig, you can glue the Top to the Sub Top. However, gluing it will make it much more difficult to replace the top in the future if you need to. Note: The dimensions given in these plans are based using T-Track that is 3/4" wide and 1/2" thick. If your T-Track is a different size, you will need to modify the thickness of the inner trim accordingly.
Pocket Hole Screws
Copyright C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Attach the T-Track & Miter track to the Top Page 31
Attach the T-Track to the top as shown with 1" #6 screws. Some manufacturers countersink the holes for mounting the track and others do not. From my experience, I prefer flathead screws with countersunk holes. This keeps the screw heads from interfering with the bolts sliding through the track. The track I used for the prototype was designed for pan head screws, so I countersunk them on my drill press. The miter guage track is not subject to much stress so you can glue it in the slot. If you use screws, be sure the screw heads are below the surface so the miter guage does not hang up on them. I would not reccommend polyurethane glues because they expand as they set up. The expanding glue would lift the miter track up above the surface of the workbench top. A construction adhesive like liquid nails works fine.
Top T-Track Miter Guage Track
Attach the Lower Track Support to the left side of the cabinet with six 2" #8 flathead screws. Position this piece so it is 1" below the Sub Top Trim and centered front to back. Copyright C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Attach the T-Track to the Edges of the Front and Ends Page 32
Attach the edge T-Track on each end and along the front to the middle Sub Top Trim with 1" #6 screws. Position this T-Track under the bottom surface of the Top as shown in the detail drawing. T-Track joins at the corners like this so you can slide the bolts in and out.
End T-Track
Detail
End T-Track
Front T-Track
Attach the Lower T-Track to the Lower T-Track Support. The T-Track should be centered top to bottom. Copyright C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Attach the Lower Front Trim to the Front and Ends Page 33
Attach the Lower Top Trim on each end and along the front to the middle Sub Top Trim with 1 1/2" finishing nails. If you cut the top a little larger than the dimensions called for, you can trim it with your router and a flush trimming bit. Use the Lower Top Trim for the bit bearing to follow. The Lower Top Trim joins at the corners like this.
Detail
Lower Trim
Lower Trim
Attach the Lower Track Trim with finishing nails.
Copyright C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Assemble the Drawers Page 34
Apply a little glue to the mating surfaces and assemble the drawer boxes. Left Side Right Side
Back
Front
Step 1
Step 2
Step 3
Assemble the front, back, and right side with finishing nails as shown in Step 1. Insert the bottom as shown in Step 2. Attach the left side as shown in Step 3.
Step 5
Step 4
Support the drawer boxes with 1/4" thick strips of wood and attach the drawer fronts with 1 1/8" screws as shown. This is necessary because the bottom of the front must be 1/4" below the bottom of the box so it will overlap the rear cabinet trim when installed.
Copyright
C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Assemble the Router Bit Trays Page 34
Assemble the Router trays with finishing nails as shown above.
Attach the drawer fronts to the router tray fronts with pocket hole screws on each side as shown. Don't forget to support the trays with 1/4" thick strips of wood while you attach the fronts. As with the drawers, the bottom of the fronts must be 1/4" below the bottom of the trays so the fronts will overlap the cabinet trim when installed.
Copyright
C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Attach the Cabinet Doors Page 36
Attach the cabinet doors so the tops align with the tops of the drawers and the sides align with the ends of the middle drawer as shown above.
Copyright C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Attach the Middle Door trim Page 37
Attach the Middle Door Lip to the back of either of the cabinet doors so half of it is visible as shown. Attach it to the back of the door with a couple of 1" wood screws. The left door is not pictured in the drawing for clarity. This piece serves as a door lip so there is no visible gap between the doors. Now, you're ready to attach the Drawer and Door handles and your work bench is finished.
Copyright C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Clamping System Parts Page 38 3/8" Button Hole 5/16" Bolt Hole
2"
2 3/4"
Clamp Jaws (2)
3 1/2
"
4 1/2"
Clamp Jaw Layout (Side 1)
Clamp Jaw Layout (Side 2)
5/8"
1 1/2"
3"
3"
Rear Stop
2 3/4" Dia - 5/16"
24"
1 3/4"
3 1/2"
1 1/2"
EZ Clamp Stop
2"
End View
2"
3/8" Button Hole
1 3/4" Dia - 5/16"
28"
2" Post (2)
Drill two pocket holes in each Post as shown below. Next, drill two 1/4" diameter holes in the end of each Post as shown. (The 1/4" holes should only be 1/2" deep.)
2"
Jaws (2)
2 1/2"
4"
1/2"
Drill a 5/16" bolt through each jaw as shown. Next, drill two 5/16" holes for the dowel pins in each Jaw as shown. (The dowel pin holes are 5/16" diameter so the Jaws can pivot over the pins. These holes should be 1/2" deep.)
3/8" 2 1/4" 1/2"
Dia - 5/16"
Jaws
Posts Copyright C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Assemble the EZ Mount Stop Page 39
Attach the Posts to the ends of the Stop Bar with pocket hole screws as shown below. Next, cut four 7/8" long dowel pins from 1/4" dowel rod. Apply some glue and insert a 1/4" dowel pin into each hole in the ends of the Posts. (The dowel pins should protude about 3/8" from the ends of the Posts.)
Place the Jaws over the protuding dowel pins as shown above. (Do not glue the dowel pins to the Jaws as the Jaws must be allowed to pivot in order to work as clamps.) Insert a 5/16 carriage bolt through the holes as shown. (The carriage bolt should be 5" long. Secure the pieces with a flat washer and knob.
Copyright C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Clamping System Usage Page 40
The T-Track clamping system provides a flexible way of clamping both large and small work pieces. Most work pieces can be clamped using the two Clamp Jaws and the Rear Stop. The Clamp Jaws are used with the T-Track that runs along the front edge of the workbench. The Rear Stop is used with the T-Track that is embedded in the top surface of the workbench. For longer workpieces, you can use the the Clamp Jaws with the T-Track on the ends of the workbench. The EZ Mount Stop may be secured anywhere along the workbench top. The simple clamps on each end of the EZ Mount Stop grip the edge of the workbench top as well as C-Clamps. This feature enables you to use the workbench as a large bar clamp for gluing up boards. You can make the clamping system grip the work piece even tighter by gluing strips of 100 grit sandpaper along the edges that contact the workpiece. The sandpaper requires much less force than the surface of bare wood. The button arrangement on the Clamp Jaws allows you to filp the Clamp Jaws over for thicker work pieces. The drawings on the next two pages illustrates how the clamps work. To clamp a work piece, position the workpiece so the edge protudes slightly over the edge of the workbench top as shown. Then, position the Rear Stop against the workpiece and tighten it to T-Track using the knobs. Next, tighten the Clamp Jaws against the workpiece with the knobs and your work piece will be clamped just like with a vice. For thinner workpieces, position the Clamp Jaws and Rear Stop as shown. If your workpiece is thinner than 3/4", you can place strips of wood under the work piece so it is slightly higher than the top edges of the Clamp Jaws. For thicker workpieces, flip the Clamp Jaws so the second button is against the Lower T-Track Trim and reverse the Rear Stop so the thicker edge is against the workpiece.
Copyright C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Using the Clamps Page 41
For thinner workpieces, position the Clamp Jaws and Rear Stop as shown. Second Button Rear Stop
Clamp Jaw Workpiece
Button T-Track
For thicker workpieces, flip the Clamp Jaw so the second button is against the Lower T-Track Trim and reverse the Rear Stop so the thicker edge is against the workpiece. Button
Workpiece
Rear Stop
Clamp Jaw
Second Button T-Track
Copyright C
2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Clamping Long Workpieces Page 41
To clamp long work pieces, use the Clamping Jaws and EZ Mount Stop as shown.
Copyright c
by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Snapshots
Clamping a small work piece
Clamping a large work piece
Clamping a thick work piece
Close up view of the Woodpeckers Quick-Lift. Clamp a large work piece Hold down clamps.
Clamping a work light.
Arranging the jaws for use with the EZ Mount Stop. The purple edge is the 100 grit sandpaper used to make the stop grip the work piece tighter.
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