Winter Riding

Bike Riding in the Winter Months by Juan Salazar with contributions from Rick Carpenter, Dan Timmerman & Eric Smith Contrary to many people’s belief, cycling need not be confined to spring, summer and fall. Riding a bike in the winter is not without challenge, but by dressing adequately and carefully planning rides, it can turn out to be a very enjoyable experience. Here you will find some of what I have learned from tackling on many winter rides, both here in Ithaca and some long distance events in Pennsylvania. The information is from the internet, personal experience and from lessons learned in conversations with fellow cyclists during many hours on the saddle. I have chosen to cover four crucial elements: clothing, the bicycle, nutrition and safety. These sections are followed by Rick’s tips on winder riding and some important comments by Dan Timmerman and Eric Smith. At the end I have included links to my favorite resources. Hopefully you will find lots of useful information for your weekend ride, nighttime rides, and even for the longer commute. After all, daylight hours are much shorter in the wintertime. So got out there and bike!

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Near Asbury, NJ - 02.07.2009

Clothing

The main recommendation here is to layer. It is important to have multiple layers of clothing that allow you to adjust your heat losses to the environment. Start off by using a base layer that has good wicking properties, absorbing the sweat produced on your skin. For this purpose merino wool turtlenecks are excellent. Synthetic fabrics are also available, but I personally prefer wool. Over your base layer you can add one or two extra layers of insulation, such as a fleece jacket. Always choose models that have zippers. They allow instant ventilation if desired. The next layer should have wind-blocking properties. When riding a bike, enhanced heat loss occurs because of forced convection. Just feel how it gets colder on those descents. Therefore it is important that this layer is able to protect you from the wind but also allow moisture to evaporate. Modern fabrics, such as those manufactured by W.L. Gore & Associates, are a good option. A cheaper alternative to Gore-Tex garments are Frogg Toggs foul weather gear. Look for models with back pockets. They are particularly useful for keeping energy bars from turning into inedible hockey pucks. Finally, for your outermost layer I would recommend a waterproof shell with zippers and a ventilated back, such as the Showers Pass “Double Century” jacket as well as similar models. You might just be around 32F (0‰) and the last thing you Tour de Solstice - 12.21.2008 want is to get wet on a cold day. It is also paramount to keep your head warm. The brain is arguably the most important of your organs, so the body (commanded by the brain) will protect it at all costs, including reducing circulation to other less vital areas if needed. That being said, I wear a balaclava, similar to a full ski mask, but with nose and mouth exposed. There are also models that cover mouth and nose, but I find these annoying to breathe in. The balaclava also protects your ears and neck. Nearly freezing ears can be quite painful. Other options include headbands, earmuffs, helmet covers and goggles. The experts at RoadBikeRider.com recommend wearing tights every time the temperature is below 65F (18‰). Although the legs do not suffer that much, cold knees get locked up and cause pain. As it gets around freezing, an extra layer is needed. Not to mention you should always wear proper cycling shorts. Do not use your shorts Superman-style, with the tights underneath them. This is not meant to be. Extremities are most vulnerable to the cold. One of the common mistakes made by cyclists is to stuff their shoes with multiple socks. This would be fine except that usually this is done in an already snug shoe, leading to a compressed foot 1

where blood does not circulate well, and heat does not arrive properly in the first place. So preferably you should wear a thicker wool sock and a bootie to inhibit convection losses. If it gets really cold I use chemical toe warmers that slowly generate heat in oxygen-deprived environments, such as in your shoe. My best piece of advice to keep your hands warm is to use mittens or lobster gloves with a liner. Air between the liner and glove material is a good insulator. The best gloves are separated into an inner insulation component and an outer wind and waterproof shell. When manufacturers try to combine the two functions, it always seems really difficult to get the inners dry later on. Fingered gloves allow more mobility but also have larger exposed surface area, increasing heat losses compared to mittens and lobster gloves. I find the lobster glove to be a good compromise. Also, avoid squeezing the handlebar with your hands when riding. Ideally the hands should rest relaxed on the handlebars. The squeezing prevents blood from reaching your fingertips and then it will get cold and painful really fast. The level of discomfort in these areas is largely a function of blood circulation, which can vary significantly from individual to individual. So there are no guarantees.

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The Bicycle

The snow, slush and sometimes ice on the ground will reduce the friction between the pavement and your tires. This obviously can lead to a fall and possibly serious injury. Therefore, if you want to ride in the winter, it is vital that you have an adequate bike. That means your tires should be wide enough and preferably be knobby. Studded tires are also a good option if you are likely to find ice on the roads. But plan ahead and get them in the Fall. They are not as common as other tires and may be difficult to come by when you need them. Fenders are also an invaluable asset on wet and slushy roads. They keep the nastiness away from you. If you want your bike to last, make sure you clean it properly after each ride. Because of the reduced daylight hours, it is likely that a winter rider will eventually have to make way through the dark. If you do not intend to go fast or do A chilly Sunday ride - 01.31.2009 not have any major descents on your route, small battery powered head lights will do just fine. However, if this is a common occurrence you might consider investing in a dynamo hub, capable of generating enough power to light up the road in front of you and make of night, day.

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Nutrition

The motto “eat before you get hungry and drink before you get thirsty” is particularly valid in winter. Cold and dry air can take a lot of water out of your lungs. The perception that we are sweating less in the cold can also inhibit water intake. Increase in heat loss must be compensated by adequate calorie intake. So eat and drink plentifully, especially if your ride will last more than two hours. This can be a problem if the temperature is below freezing. Your water may turn into ice. I suggest using a water bladder close to your body such as a Camelbak when out in the cold for longer than two hours. If you make sure to blow air in the hose or keep it close to your body you should not run into problems. Adding electrolytes or a pinch of salt to the water will also lower its freezing point.

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Safety

Plan your rides such that you will encounter convenience stores, restaurants or inhabited areas along the route. In that way you will always have a safe harbor not far away. Know when to seek help, don’t be shy! Knock on a door and share your story with a stranger. It is likely he or she will be inspired by your courage and will provide you with a warm shelter. Avoid riding in uninhabited areas if you are not prepared to do so and ride with a buddy if possible. Although I do not like cell phones, these can be particularly useful in the winter, so take one along. At any sign of hypothermia, such as shivering and loss of coordination, seek a warm refuge. Be visible, wear bright colors (or reflective bands) and have your bike equipped with blinkies.

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Rick’s tips ® Winter ride time management With all the additional preparation & equipment needed, someone new to winter riding should plan on a ride duration of 1 1/2 times that of summer; i.e., if an 18 mile ride takes you one hour in summer, the same ride might take you an hour and thirty minutes in winter. ® Low Sun angle Even during “daylight” hours, plan on riding with your lights on. Particularly in early morning and late afternoon, the low sun angle of winter will often make you difficult to be seen by road traffic (due to long

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shadows created in wooded and/or hilly areas). A brimmed cap is also beneficial for keeping the sun out of one’s eyes, as well as oncoming headlights. ® Dealing with mechanicals and unexpected situations Everything takes longer when it’s cold, and especially when cold and dark, and once stopped it doesn’t take long to become cold and potentially hypothermic. Consider the following in preparation for unexpected circumstances: ˆ Flat tire Much more prone to these incidents in winter conditions and wet roads. On anything other than a short winter ride (30 miles or less), I carry three spare tubes & one tire, along with tire boots & a patch kit. Envision standing along the side of the road on a dark, rainy, and cold evening picking glass, and hoping you got it all so you don’t flat your new tube five miles down the road. It is much easier (esp. with old eyeballs) to just replace the tube & tire, and get going again (saving the glass picking for the relative comfort of my garage). ˆ Cleat/Pedal Selection Consider changing your pedals & shoes to the recessed “SPD type” cleat, so that ice/snow buildup becomes less of a “clip-in” issue, and if you need to walk from a situation you wont have to “clip-clop” down the road. ˆ Spare Clothing Once stopped, having spare clothing can make a critical situation bearable, whether it is effecting roadside repairs, covering-up torn clothing from a road-rash incident, or waiting for assistance. ˆ Cell Phone Great idea to carry one, but keep in-mind the limitations, such as:

– Someone needs to answer and also be in a position to respond in a timely manner; – Reception can be spotty: in my case 30 percent of the area I travel is not amenable to cell phone transmission; – Battery life is compromised in cold weather: best to keep phone close to your body to avoid a dead-phone ’surprise’. Being self-reliant is the better preparation, with the cell phone as “Plan B”.

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Comments by Dan Timmerman and Eric Smith

Many of the suggestions given here include items that if purchased, amount to a significant amount of money. In times of hardship, you might want to know that you can likely get by with the winter clothes that you already have and a bit of creativity. A good tip is to pay a visit to the Salvation Army. While on your bike, most of the time you are actually going to be overheating and will need far less clothing than you thought you would. Head warmth can be provided by a knit cap that fits under a helmet or an ear-band, which together with a scarf wrapped around the neck and face under the mouth is an excellent subsitute for a balaclava. For hands you can use old ski mittens. A jacket from the Fall could do just the trick to keep your core temperature from dropping. As leggings any warm pants can be used, as long as they are tied up at the ankle to keep fabric away from the Lancaster County, PA - 01.03.2009 drivetrain. If using toe clips or platform pedals, regular winter boots with warm socks will do just fine. Cycling specific gear in many cases will outperform the homemade solution, but you can acquire the items over time. It is important to be aware of the salt on the roads, which tends to be very destructive of a winter bike. It might be worthwhile to look into buying a used bicycle or having a cheaper model to use during the winter months. However, you still can ride on your nice bike if you take good enough care of it.

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Very useful links ® Icebike http://www.icebike.org/ ® Pamela Blalock’s Winter Riding Tips http://www.blayleys.com/articles/WinterTips/wintertips.htm ® Sheldon Brown http://www.sheldonbrown.com ® Peter White Cycles http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/ ® City of Toronto’s recommendations for cycling in the cold http://www.toronto.ca/bug/cwc warmdry.htm ® Allweathersports.com http://www.allweathersports.com/winter/winter.html

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