Wine Pairing Guide For Indian Food

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THE CHRONICLE PAIRING GUIDE THE SPICE IS RIGHT The secrets of matching Indian food with wine Jon Bonné, Olivia Wu, Chronicle Staff Writers Friday, June 8, 2007

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Asian cuisines get scant consideration when it comes to wine. If you ask about which wine to pair with Indian food, expect a one-word answer. Usually Gewurztraminer. Perhaps Riesling. Maybe Syrah. An entire culture's cuisine to be paired with a single varietal? Ridiculous. Among Asian cuisines, Indian food probably has the greatest notoriety for being hard to match with wine. Its complex layering of spices and chile heat makes for a tricky challenge. Let's begin with the obvious: Beer makes for an excellent pairing with most Indian food. (Which beer, and which food, is grist for another day.) If that's your preference, go with it. Whiskey, as enjoyed in India with hors d'oeuvres, is fine, too. For the wine lover, though, finding an ideal match is more complicated. It will not be found with Gewurztraminer. That varietal's spicy profile can work every now and then, but it usually collides with the nuances of Indian food. Almost every Indian dish begins with a blend of spices, so our challenge was to find out which spices warm up to which wines. We called on Ruta Kahate, an Indian culinary teacher and author based in the East Bay, for guidance. The three of us met to consider her list of the 10 most crucial spices in Indian cuisine -- mustard seeds, cardamom, turmeric, cumin, black pepper, mace/nutmeg, ginger, bay leaves, cloves and cinnamon. Cayenne we put in a class of its own, making 11. Then we devised a list of about 80 wines -- as obvious as Syrah and as esoteric as Muller-Thurgau. Kahate pointed out that almost all spices are used in combination, especially in what's known as "curry" -- which is a range of specific spice blends, or masalas. Northern Indian spice mixes can be cooked in a base such as yogurt or light cream, while Southern Indian masalas are sometimes cooked with coconut milk. Sauces also might contain acidic elements such as tomato or tamarind juice. And don't forget the great quantities of fresh ginger, garlic and onions that are essential to Indian fare. Rather than seek out specific wines to match specific dishes, we decided to think in terms of flavor families -- mostly based on sauces. The dominant flavors in Indian dishes often come from the sauce and spice rather than the main meat or vegetable. In the end, we distilled Indian cuisine down to five sauce/spice groups:

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1. Simple Spice. Dishes that rely on just a few spices, at most three, as seasoning. 2. Light Sauce. Lighter dishes, many of them with dried peas, beans and legumes such as lentil and garbanzo beans. 3. Heavy Sauce. The dishes most often called "curries," including popular cream-based picks such as tikka masala. 4. Tandoori. Marinated meats that have been roasted in a clay oven. 5. Fresh and Green. Dishes with fresh greens or herbs as a primary ingredient, such as the spinach-based saag paneer. But there is a vast gap between home-cooked dishes and what might be found in your local Indian joint. Wine requires dishes with a more restrained use of spice, so if you want to dial the heat up to 11, beer is really the way to go. To test our theories in the field, we ordered a wide range of takeout dishes from both sides of the bay. And we also headed to Ajanta in Berkeley for a sit-down meal. Chef-owner Lachu Moorjani offers a wine list of nearly 50 wines that includes thoughtful options such as Merlot from Washington state and rosé from Bandol along with, yes, Gewurztraminer (a best-seller). Moorjani joined us as we tried to match both popular dishes like tandoori chicken and regional specialties like kozi milagu chettinad, a Madras specialty pungent with black pepper. Though Moorjani, a devoted wine lover, serves as impromptu sommelier for his diners, he finds it tough going. "One person out of four will speak up and say, 'I think beer goes better with Indian food than wine,' " says Moorjani. "And boom, they'll all get beer, which is very discouraging to me if I want to put together a good wine list." Slowly, conclusions began to emerge from our cardamom-and-cumin haze. -- Toss out conventional wisdom about pairing with whites and reds. Because sauce and spice are so crucial, dishes that seem like a sure bet for red wine -- like the heavy, creamy lamb korma -- are often better with white, and vice versa. "That was a revelation to me," says Moorjani. -- Among red wines, aromatic varieties work best, especially those without too many dark fruit flavors. Less use of oak seems to avoid clashes with complex flavors, though in some cases -- as when woody coriander is present -- a more oaky wine, like a Spanish Rioja, can work well. On the other hand, between big tannins and heavy spices, it's almost impossible for Cabernet Sauvignon not to clash. -- For white wines, again, less oak is better -- although some aging in old oak barrels can provide a silky texture that bolsters rich sauces. Acidity is important, but too much can be jarring, unless it's balanced by another element in the wine. That's one reason sweeter Rieslings seemed to work better than dry. -- Alcohol levels are important because more alcohol tends to magnify the heat in a dish and steamroll over flavors. Wines at 14 percent alcohol or less seemed to work better. That said, one of our favorite

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pairings came from a 14.3 percent Pinot Noir. -- Match less complex wines with more complex dishes. Too many different aromas and flavors can collide. But that's a rule made to be broken: A deeply nuanced Pinot Noir harmonized perfectly with the kadhai gosht, a lamb dish that featured more than 10 flavor components. -- Keep an eye out for the use of cream and yogurt. They can flatten the flavors of red wines, and may clash with tart white wines. All fine, but how do you choose a wine, especially if you're dining out and have to choose a single bottle for the whole meal? For whites, some expected winners -- like Gruner Veltliner -- fell a bit short. But several varieties native to Alsace (besides Gewurztraminer) worked beautifully for most types of dishes -- Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris and Sylvaner. Ditto the aromatic white wines of Italy's Alto Adige region, like Kerner and Muller-Thurgau. In both cases, the wines balance bright acidity with lush texture. Pinot Blanc, in particular, was a sleeper hit. What often is a liability for these wines -- little overt fruit and a more rounded texture -- proved to be an asset. But they're a hard sell. "It took me a year to sell a single case of Pinot Blanc," says Moorjani. For reds, the best results came from fragrant wines with mellow red fruit flavors and soft tannins. Syrah is often cited as a top choice for Indian food, perhaps because the Indian winery Sula Vineyards makes an increasingly popular Shiraz. Syrah with little oak can work beautifully, though too much oak can ruin the party. Consider Cabernet Franc, Grenache, cooler-climate Syrah and Rhone-style blends either from France or cooler Central Coast spots. Austrian Zweigelt and Lagrein from northern Italy worked beautifully, too. In all cases, balanced acidity and modest alcohol levels are crucial. The secret weapon may be rosés -- especially those made from Cabernet Franc -- which are versatile and match a wide range of dishes. Sparkling wine, despite our theories, was less versatile than expected, perhaps due to the high acid levels. To get really specific, we've suggested pairings for each of our five categories as well as for recipes from Ajanta restaurant and from Ruta Kahate's recently released book "5 Spices, 50 Dishes," ($19.95, Chronicle Books). See what works best and don't fear the cork next time you have curry on the brain.

Editor's note The Chronicle Pairing Guide, launching today, is an occasional series devoted to matching wine with food. In coming months, we'll focus on cuisines and dishes that often are overlooked in wine pairings. Got a favorite food-wine match? E-mail us at [email protected]. 1 Simple Spice Many home-cooked Indian dishes rely on a single spice, or at most three spices, as seasoning. Black mustard seeds are often popped in hot oil to "bloom" their flavor, called "tadka." Turmeric weaves

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through much of Indian cooking; sometimes in conjunction with one other spice, often black mustard seed. Food: Samosas and pakoras. (For an optimal wine experience, hold the raita.) Biryani rice dishes. Ruta Kahate's Tangy Shredded Cabbage Salad (see recipe), which uses the tadka technique. Desserts such as Kahate's sublime cookies, Cardamom Nankaties (see recipe). Wine: Let the spice suggest the wines. This is also one of the few categories where sparkling wine was a clear winner -- including a Moscato d'Asti with the cardamom cookies. Be mindful of the amount of chile or citrus used. If you're making the dish, hold back on the lemon juice and chile. For dishes with mustard seed, minerally and peppery red wines, or grassy white wines, mesh well. For turmeric, rosé, floral whites and leathery red wines go well. Examples: Champagne and sparkling wines, dry Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Albarino, dry Viognier, Syrah, Mourvedre. . Cardamom Nankaties Makes approximately 30 cookies This buttery, shortbread cookie from Ruta Kahate relies on a single spice: cardamom. Depending on how you measure the dry ingredients, you may need a few additional tablespoons of softened butter to make the dough come together. Pairs with: Cascinetta Vietti Moscato d'Asti. Ingredients: 3/4 cup unsalted butter, softened 1 cup powdered sugar 1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour 1/2 cup white rice flour 1/4 cup ground almonds 1 teaspoon ground cardamom 1/4 teaspoon salt Instructions: Instructions: Preheat the oven to 350°. In the bowl of an electric mixer, cream the butter and sugar until fluffy. Stir the flours, almonds, cardamom and salt together, and add to the creamed butter. Mix just until the dough starts to clump together. Using your hands, form the dough into a smooth ball. Pinch off a tablespoon-size portion of the dough and roll in your palms to form a perfect round ball. Flatten slightly and place on an ungreased baking sheet. Continue with the rest of the dough, placing the cookies on the sheet 2 inches apart. You can

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use a small ice cream scoop to measure out the cookie dough if you'd like. Bake in the middle of the oven until the edges of the cookies turn a very pale brown, 15 to 18 minutes. Cool on a wire rack, and store in an airtight container. Per cookie: 95 calories, 1 g protein, 11 g carbohydrate, 6 g fat (3 g saturated), 12 mg cholesterol, 19 mg sodium, 0 fiber. . Tangy Shredded Cabbage Salad Serves 4 You might use less serrano chile if you wish to pair this salad from Ruta Kahate with wine. Pairs with: 2004 Mastroberardino NovaSerra Greco di Tufo or 2006 Domaine de Beausejour Chinon Rosé. Ingredients: 2 cups tightly packed, shredded green cabbage (use the large holes of the grater) 1 small serrano chile, seeded and minced 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, or more as needed 1 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon sugar 1 tablespoon canola oil 1/2 teaspoon mustard seeds Instructions: Instructions: In a medium bowl, toss together the cabbage, chile, lemon juice, salt and sugar. Taste and adjust the seasoning. You are looking for a well-balanced, sweet and sour taste. Heat the oil in a small skillet or butter warmer over high heat. When the oil begins to smoke, add the mustard seeds, covering the pan with a lid or splatter screen. When seeds top popping, immediately pour the oil over the cabbage salad and toss well. Let the salad sit for at least 15 minutes before serving, to allow the flavors to blossom. Serve cold or at room temperature. Per serving: 50 calories, 1 g protein, g 4 carbohydrate, 4 g fat (0 saturated), 0 cholesterol, 540 mg sodium, 1 g fiber. 2 Light Sauce These dishes begin with a masala (spice) mix, though not too complex, and the natural sweetness and some mild acid from tomato. There can be a little dairy and the resultant gravy -- not a full-on sauce -is leaner.

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Food: Everyday Dal (see recipe), and many other dal recipes; Black-Eyed Peas in a Spicy Goan Curry (see recipe) and other coconut-milk curries; and the channa masala (chickpea curry) found on restaurant menus. Dishes like kadhai gosht, a heavier preparation with 10 or more spice components, also fall into this flavor profile. This is a versatile group, which despite acid from tomatoes, is also sweet, especially if it includes pulses and legumes (peas and beans). In this instance, an okra dish with the heavier gosht sauce actually jazzes with red wine. Wine: Tomatoes require wines with plenty of acid, though not as their defining trait. Fortunately, this category lends itself to the broadest range of options. In particular, rosé shines. Reds should be fruity and relatively light. Whites should be more silky than sharp, and some sweetness can balance out high acidity. Examples: Aromatic whites (Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Muller-Thurgau, Sylvaner); dry Chenin Blanc; dry or late-harvest Riesling (depending on the sauce); red or white Cotes du Rhone. Young, fruity cooler-climate reds like Grenache/Garnacha, Lagrein, Zweigelt, Barbera; lighter Pinot Noir. Dry Rosé. . Black-Eyed Peas in a Spicy Goan Curry Serves 4 to 6 Black-eyed peas give Ruta Kahate's curry a smoky flavor that suggests a red, but also goes with a white. Pairs with: 2003 Patz & Hall Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir or 2006 Domaine de Beausejour Chinon Rosé. Ingredients: 1 cup dried black-eyed peas or two 15-ounce cans, drained 2 tablespoons, canola oil 1 small yellow onion, minced (about 1 cup) 1 teaspoon coriander seeds, finely ground 1/2 teaspoons finely grated garlic (about 1 large clove) 1/2 teaspoon finely grated ginger (about a 1-inch piece) 1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric 1/2 teaspoon cayenne 1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds, finely ground 1/4 cup minced tomato (1 small tomato) 2 cups (or 1 cup if using canned peas) hot water 1/2 teaspoon salt, or to taste if using canned peas 1/2 teaspoon sugar

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1 cup canned coconut milk 2 tablespoons minced cilantro leaves 1 tablespoon lemon juice Instructions: Instructions: If using dried black-eyed peas, rinse and soak them in enough water to cover for 6 to 8 hours. Drain. In a large saucepan, heat the oil over medium-low heat and saute the onion until it turns dark brown, about 8 minutes. Add the coriander, garlic, ginger, turmeric, cayenne and cumin, and stir for 2 minutes. Add the tomato and stir over low heat until it disintegrates. Add the peas and mix well. Pour in the hot water, if using, add the salt and sugar, and bring to a boil. Turn the heat down to low, cover, and simmer until the peas are cooked through, about 20 minutes. If using canned peas, simmer for only 10 minutes (it is essential to simmer the canned peas, too, so that all the flavors blend better). Stir in the coconut milk and simmer uncovered for another 8 to 10 minutes, again allowing the flavors to come together. Add the cilantro and lemon juice, simmer for 1 minute more, and remove from heat. Serve hot. Per serving: 140 calories, 6 g protein, 19 g carbohydrate, 5 g fat (0 saturated), 0 cholesterol, 204 mg sodium, 3 g fiber. . Everyday Yellow Dal Serves 4 Adapted from Ruta Kahate's recipe, this dish goes with white or red wine, depending on how prominent the cilantro flavor is. With stronger cilantro, lean toward a white. Pairs with: 2005 Cantina Produttori Bolzano Alto Adige Santa Maddalena Classico or 2006 Van Duzer Estate Willamette Valley Pinot Gris. Ingredients: 1 cup yellow split peas, soaked in cold water for 1 hour 1 large tomato (about 8 ounces), cut into 8 wedges 1/4 cup canola oil 1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds 1 medium red onion, finely chopped (about 1 1/2 cups) 5 large garlic cloves, thinly sliced 1 teaspoon coriander seeds, finely ground 3/4 teaspoon ground turmeric

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1/2 teaspoon cayenne 1/4 cup minced cilantro leaves 1 tablespoon unsalted butter 1 teaspoon salt Instructions: Instructions: Drain the dal (split peas) and place in a large saucepan. Add the tomato and 3 cups of water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer, cover and cook until peas are tender, 45 minutes to 1 hour. Pick out any tomato skins and whisk dal to emulsify it. Keep warm over very low heat. Heat the oil in a medium skillet over high heat. When the oil begins to smoke, add the cumin seeds, covering the pan with a lid or splatter screen. After the seeds have stopped sputtering, add the onion and saute over medium heat. About 3 minutes later, add the garlic and saute until most of the onion has turned dark brown, about 5 minutes altogether. Add the coriander, turmeric and cayenne, stir and pour mixture over the dal. Add the cilantro, butter and salt to the dal and simmer for another 5 minutes. Serve hot. Per serving: 465 calories, 21 g protein, 58 g carbohydrate, 18 g fat (3 g saturated), 8 mg cholesterol, 545 mg sodium, 22 g fiber. 3 Heavy Sauce These are the dishes you're most likely to find translated as "curry" in English. They're complexly spiced, often first marinated, perhaps seared in butter, then layered with cream and finished with ground or sliced nuts -- the kind of thing that finer restaurants do, says Ruta Kahate. "It's layers upon layers of seasoning. I call it saucy." Food: Cream-based lamb korma and chicken makhanwala are two archetypes. The popular chicken tikka masala, in which tandoori chicken is then sauced, is another popular example. The vindaloo dishes can fit in here, although if they are very hot, as they should be, it's time for beer. Wine: With modest amounts of dairy, a lighter red can work -- even a Syrah. If the sauce is creamier, turn to a higher-acid white. Examples: Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, sweet Riesling, Beaujolais, Syrah, red and white Cotes du Rhone or Rhone-style wines. . Lamb in Creamy Curry Sauce Serves 6 to 8 This is Ajanta restaurant's Lamb Korma recipe, rich with masala, cream and nuts. Pairs with: 2004 Chapoutier Saint-Joseph Deschants Blanc or 2003 Reininger Walla Walla Valley Syrah. Ingredients:

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4 tablespoons oil 2 teaspoons cumin seeds 1-inch piece ginger, peeled and finely chopped 4 medium onions, peeled, quartered and thinly sliced 2 pounds boneless cubed lamb, defatted (weigh after boning and defatting) 1 1/2 teaspoons ground turmeric powder 2 teaspoons salt 2 teaspoons paprika 1/2 to 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper or Mexican ground chiles 3 teaspoons ground coriander 1 cup plain yogurt 2 teaspoons garam masala (see Note) 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 3/4 cup heavy cream 1/2 cup slivered almonds Instructions: Instructions: Heat oil in a 6-quart saucepan. When hot, add cumin seeds. When the seeds pop, add ginger. Fry for about 10 seconds. Add onions and saute over medium-high heat, stirring frequently, until the onions become slightly brown. Raise heat to high. When the pot becomes very hot, add lamb. Stir and saute until the lamb is browned and most of the moisture has evaporated. Add turmeric, salt, paprika, cayenne pepper and ground coriander. Stir for 2 to 3 minutes. Turn off the heat and add yogurt (the heat is turned off to prevent yogurt from curdling). Stir to combine. Turn the heat back on. Bring the mixture to a boil. Add 1/4 to 1/2 cup of water if there is not enough liquid if mixture seems too thick. Reduce heat, cover partially and simmer over low heat for 25 to 35 minutes, or until lamb becomes tender. At this point, there should be a thin film of oil on the top surface. Add garam masala, black pepper and cream. Stir and cover, then turn off the heat and leave it on the stove for about 5 minutes. Sprinkle slivered almonds on top before serving. Note: You may use a purchased, all-purpose garam masala, but it is preferable to make your own. Toast about 1 tablespoon each of whole cardamom, cinnamon bark (broken into pieces) and cloves in a toaster oven or in a dry frying pan over medium heat for 5 minutes or until aromas are released. Then grind in a spice grinder or in a clean electric coffee grinder. This will yield slightly more than you need for this recipe. The remainder may be stored in a tightly sealed container.

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Per serving: 405 calories, 28 g protein, 13 g carbohydrate, 27 g fat (9 g saturated), 105 mg cholesterol, 624 mg sodium, 3 g fiber. 4 Tandoori Bright red and grilled in the ultra-high temperatures of the clay tandoori oven, poultry, meat and fish are first moistened with a long marination in yogurt, a spice mixture and a puree of fresh ginger and garlic. The spice mixture varies from cook to cook, each with her or his secret masala, and can vary according to the meat to be seasoned. The yogurt (and sometimes lemon juice) also tenderizes the protein. Although the signature bright red color in this classic preparation should come from the cochineal additive, restaurants often go the easy way by using synthetic food coloring. Some kitchens substitute paprika, and that, too, affects your wine choice. Food: Tandoori chicken, tandoori fish Wines: Of all the categories, this one is most dependent on the meat or fish being prepared, so traditional rules often apply. Lamb, for instance, warms itself to Pinot Noir and fish to Muscadet. Leaner white wines like Sauvignon Blanc also work to balance out the presence of acid like lemon juice, and reds should have relatively high acid. Examples: Cabernet Franc, especially lighter Loire Valley wines; Pinot Blanc; red Cotes du Rhone; Barbera; Pinot Noir; Lagrein; Zweigelt; Viognier; Sauvignon Blanc; Muscadet. 5 Fresh and Green Chopped spinach, chopped cilantro and other greens are basis of the "sauce" in this class of dishes. Food: Saag paneer (chunks of farmer-like cheese with minced spinach), green fish curry. Wine: Here's the one category where white wines work almost exclusively, regardless of the protein (fish, chicken, cheese or red meat). Look for wines with more green fruit and grassy or herbal flavors, and a leaner texture. Skip the oak. A fully dry rosé works well, too, though it can bring out any sweetness in the dish. Examples: Dry Chenin Blanc; Dry Riesling; Muller-Thurgau; unoaked Chardonnay, like Chablis; Sauvignon Blanc; Albarino; Pinot Blanc; Cabernet Franc rosé. . Seafood in Green Curry Serves 4 as a starter or 2 as a main dish The Chronicle Test Kitchen substituted 1 pound of halibut for the 1 pound of mussels in Ruta Kahate's recipe. Pairs with: 2005 Garlider Sudtirol Eisacktaler Alto Adige Muller-Thurgau or 2004 Domaines Schlumberger Les Princes Abbes Pinot Blanc. Ingredients: 1 pound mussels or 1 pound halibut, cut into 1- by 2-inch pieces

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1/4 teaspoon cumin seeds, freshly ground 1/2 small tomato 1/2 cup cilantro leaves 1/4 cup mint leaves 1-inch piece of fresh ginger 2 small serrano chiles 2 tablespoons canola oil 1/2 medium yellow onion, finely chopped (about 1 cup) 1 cup canned coconut milk Instructions: Instructions: Scrub the mussels well. Pull off any beards and discard any mussels that are not tightly closed. Using blender or food processor, grind the cumin, tomato, cilantro, mint, ginger and chiles to a fine, smooth paste. You may add a few tablespoons of water if needed. Heat the oil in a medium wok or cast-iron skillet over medium heat, and saute the onion until golden brown. Add the green curry paste and saute until the curry smells cooked and fragrant, about 4 to 5 minutes. Add coconut milk and salt to taste, and bring to a boil. Add the mussels or halibut, if using, and reduce the heat to low. Toss well, cover and cook until all the mussels open, about 5 minutes. Discard any that have not opened. Serve hot with rice or French bread. Per serving: 655 calories, 52 g protein, 18 g carbohydrate, 43 g fat (24 g saturated), 73 mg cholesterol, 151 mg sodium, 5 g fiber. E-mail comments to [email protected]. http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2007/06/08/WIGOOQ59H11.DTL This article appeared on page F - 1 of the San Francisco Chronicle

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