The Dish

E DIS

STIRRING THE POT DOWN ON THE FARM

From left: Sam McPherson, Potlikker Farm Cultivator; Zack Gowen, Owner of Potlikker Farm and Georgia Sea Grill; and Tim Lensch, Executive Chef at Georgia Sea Grill

WORDS BY ANNA MARTIN PHOTOS BY ELIOT VANOTTEREN

Y

ou are what you eat. We’ve all heard the old adage that our bodies are made up by what we consume. But we aren’t just what we eat — we are where and by whom the food is grown, too. It is becoming ever more crucial to know where our food originates and its cultivation processes. Further, we are how it is prepared: what ingredients and expertise are combined for the end product. Finally, we are with whom we share our meals. From farm to kitchen and ultimately to the plate presenting a fresh, refined meal upon which we toast in celebration with our neighbor, we are what we eat. It is an art and careful practice to take the Earth’s bountiful produce and create an edible masterpiece that inspires both the creator and consumer. This is the story of Potlikker Farm and Georgia Sea Grill. In the South, the staged development of meal preparation has been a deep-rooted tradition: a lens to explore Southern identity. To be part of the process, whether by farming, cooking, or enjoying, is to understand our history at a deeper level; not just of Southern food, but the heritage and traditions that stand as an exceptionally relevant history of the South itself. The customs

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GOLDEN I S LES

that pay tribute to our core principles of community and connection to one’s homeland paint a picture of who we are as Southerners. It is upon this ground that the newest tradition was planted on Blythe Island: Potlikker Farm. Sam McPherson, cultivator of Potlikker Farm, sustains our Southern culture in his production of local harvest that currently supplies St. Simons Island’s Georgia Sea Grill with the freshest ingredients. Inspired by summers spent working in his great-grandfather’s garden in Nashville, Georgia, Sam brings personal devotion and antiquity to the legacy of Potlikker Farm. “The idea is to use proven oldschool techniques with a few modern ideas to grow local, clean produce that has a huge significance to people that love the food and traditions of the Golden Isles,” he says. Potlikker once operated as a vegetable farm until about 40 years ago, when goat farming took its place. Fast forward to 2018: Georgia Sea Grill owner Zack Gowen had just finished reading “The Potlikker Papers: A Food History of the Modern South” by John T. Edge when, as he describes it, “a happy accident” occurred. One week later, he discovered the 6.5-acre lot on the Blythe Island street named “Potlikker’s Place.” Sometimes we just need a sign. For Zack, this was it. Along with skills he learned as a boy

working on a South Georgia farm, Sam gained experience through his and his wife’s organic produce cooperative, connecting him with Zack. Today, they work together to fulfill Sam’s dreams of operating a farm and Zack’s desire to bring locally sourced produce to Georgia Sea Grill. Though in its early stages, the team at Potlikker is producing kale, tomatoes, peppers, arugula, spinach, lemongrass, rosemary, mint, Thai basil, lettuce, and the popular Potlikker red peas, a historically significant staple crop. Marigolds and sunflowers adorn Potlikker as well and can be found beautifying tables at the Grill. The vision for Potlikker Farm is simple: to fill an underserved market with local, clean, sustainable produce. Eventually, the goal is to sell to the public, donate to schools, and be involved with other community-supported agricultural ventures. For now, Sam supplies Georgia Sea Grill Executive Chef Tim Lensch, under Zack’s direction, with fresh ingredients that Tim combines with his provisional expertise to create colorful, delicious meals served nightly. Each participant in this process, including the guests that enjoy these culinary works of art, can celebrate this expression of Southern heritage and take pride in the locally sourced, historically based cuisine found at Georgia Sea Grill. For here, there is no need to worry when someone says, you are what you eat.

Sam with Potlikker red peas

POTLIKKER PEA SALAD FROM GEORGIA SEA GRILL’S EXECUTIVE CHEF TIM LENSCH 2 cups Potlikker red peas 3 Bay leaves 2 Tbsp. hot sauce, to taste 1 Tbsp. minced parsley  1/2 cup small diced sweet onion 1 cup small diced green tomato, peeled is optional 1/2 cup small diced red pepper 1 jalapeño minced without seeds Juice from half a lemon 1 Tbsp. olive oil  Salt and pepper to taste Rinse the peas and place into a medium-sized pot. Fill with water — you want to cover the peas by about 2 inches. Salt the water to taste. Add a shot or two of your favorite hot sauce. Add 3 bay leaves. Using medium high heat, bring to a boil. Once at a boil, turn down to a simmer and let cook until soft. Turn off the heat once done and let them soak for a half an hour. Drain, remove bay leaves, cool, and mix with the rest of ingredients. Serve over rice, fish, grits, or anything else you can think of.

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