Textile 1

Assignment:

Research on Fibre, Yarn and Fabric Submitted by: Ekta Jaiswal Roll no.-23 Mfm 1st sem Batch-2009-11

Table of Contents 1.

TEXTILE: The word is derived from the Latin word ‘Textilis’ and the French word ‘Texere’ means ‘to weave’; or pertaining to weaving or to woven fabrics; as, textile arts; woven, capable of being woven; formed by weaving; as, textile fabrics. Textile originally referred only to woven fabrics, now generally applied to fibers, yarn intermediates, yarns, fabrics and products made from knitted, bonded, felted, and tufted fabrics as well. The word textile when used as a ‘Noun’ meant any item manufactured from natural or man-made fibers or filaments, e.g. yarns, threads, cords, ropes, braids, lace, embroidery, nets and fabrics made by weaving, knitting, braiding, felting, bonding and tufting. The word Textile when used as an ‘Adjective’ applies to textile machinery, buildings and organizations connected with the technology of their manufacture, e.g. Textile Printing, Textile Research and Textile mill. The basic raw materials used in textile production are fibers, either obtained from natural sources or produced from chemical substances. Textiles are used for wearing apparel, household linens and bedding, upholstery, draperies and curtains, wall coverings, rugs and carpets, and book-bindings, in addition to being used widely in industry.

FIBER: Fiber is a basic unit of matter in textile, which possesses the properties of flexibility, fineness and a high ratio of length to thickness. These are the hair-like raw materials that are spun into yarns and then made into fabrics. It is a class of materials that are continuous filaments or are in discrete elongated pieces They can be spun into filaments, string or rope, used as a component of composite materials, or matted into sheets to make a textile product. On the basis of the length of the fibers, they can be classified into two types:Staple fiber:   

A staple is a short fiber of limited length A single staple is very weak. Several staples have to be twisted together to become yarn

Filaments:  A filament is long, continuous strand of fiber.  A filament is usually man-made (silk is the only known natural filament).  Filament can be cut into staple lengths which are spun on their own or in mixtures with other staples.

GENERAL CLASSIFICATION OF TEXTILE FIBRES Textile

Natural

Cellulose Base2

Man Made

Protein Base3

Mineral

Base Staple

--Flax -- Jute --Hemp --Ramie

Hair --Alpaca --Camel --Cashmere --Llama --Mohair

Leaf

--Manila --Sisal

Seed Hair --Cotton Metallic* --Kapok Speciality

--Vicuna Wool --Sheep

Filament

Organic

Natural Polymer Base Asbestos

Inorganic

Synthetic Polymer Base

Silk Cellulose Base Acrylic* Rayon* Anidex* Acetate* Fluorocarbon Triacetate* Lastrile* Protein Base Modacrylic* Azlon* Nylon* Glass* Nytril* Aliginate

Olefin* Polyester*

Rubber*

Rubber* Saran* Spandex* Vinyl* Vinyon*

* Generic Classification based on chemical composition-Textile Fiber Products Identification Act

2 3

Vegetable Animal

YARN: Yarn is a long continuous length of interlocked fibers, suitable for use in the production of textiles, sewing, knitting, and weaving. Yarn can be made from any number of synthetic or natural fibers. Yarn is usually measured by weight. Yarn used for manufacture of fabric is made by spinning short lengths various types of fibers.

Classification of Yarn A .Based on structure or composition: 1. Filament yarn: A filament yarn is a collection of parallel filaments lying close together, straight along the whole length of the yarn. All filament yarns, with one exception, are man-made, the only exception being silk. Silk is of course a natural protein filament extruded by the silk-worm. The man-made yarns are made by producing, in one operation, the required number of filaments, at the desired thickness. • • • • •

Yarns made from only one filament are known as monofilaments. Yarns made from more than one filament are known as multifilaments. Two or more single yarns twisted together are called as Ply yarn. Two or more ply yarns twisted together are called as Chord/Rope. Folded yarns Also called doubled yarns. These are yarns in which two or more single yarns have been twisted together in one process. They can be two-fold, three-fold or more.

Cabled yarns Forming cabled yarns involves more than one operation. Two or more strands of already plied (folded) yarns are twisted together

2. Staple yarn: spun-staple yarns are made by assembling and binding together staple fibers. The way the fibers are put together will depend on what characteristics are required, such as the amount of strength or the quality of handle and appearance that are needed. Staple fiber yarns can be natural or man-made. To create a man-made staple yarn the continuous filament is chopped up into staple lengths before spinning. Virtually all the synthetic yarns specifically produced for knitting, are staple fiber yarns.

A .Based on Twist:

The two important factors of twist are the direction of the twist and the angle of the twist. There are two types of twist:-

1. S-twist: When two or more yarns twisted together in clockwise directions then it is known as S-twist.

2. Z-twist: When two or more yarns twisted together in anticlockwise manner then it is known as Z-twist.

The purpose of twist in staple and filament yarns is to generate lateral pressure, which helps to grip the fibers firmly together. The greater the twist, the higher the lateral pressure and the more closely the fibers are held.

C .Based on Shape: 1. Simple yarn: Any yarn that does not have any constriction throughout the surface is known as Simple yarn. 2. Decorative Yarn: Yarns having knots, constrictions, heart-shaped structures, soft balls etc. on their surface are known as Decorative or Novelty yarn.

FABRIC: A manufactured assembly of fibers or yarns (or both) that has substantial surface area in relation to its thickness, and sufficient mechanical strength to give the assembly inherent cohesion also known as Cloth.

Fabric or cloth is a flexible artificial material that is made by a network of natural or artificial fibers. The example is thread or yarn which is formed by weaving or knitting as in textiles. Cloth is mostly used in the manufacturing of clothing and household furnishings etc. Cloth is made in many varying strengths and degrees of durability, from the finest gossamer fabrics to sturdy canvas sailcloth’s. Fabric has several definitions. Some of them are discussed below. * Cotton is the most famous fabric and most widely used fiber in the world because of its versatility and ability to provide good comfort, particularly in apparel items. Cotton is soft, natural, vegetable fiber obtained from the seed-pod of the cotton plant. The use of cotton is diverse for example it is used in apparel, home furnishings, towels, rugs, and sewing thread etc. * Polyester, it is a type of fabric which is a synthetic, man-made fiber produced. Some of it's features are crease resistance, ability to dry quickly, shape retention in garments, high strength, abrasion resistance, and minimum care requirement. It is very important fiber in upholstery fabrics, which is often used in warps due to its strength and inexpensiveness. * Silk is a natural filament fiber produced by the silkworm in cocoon. Silk is mostly collected from cultivated worms, it is a thicker, shorter fiber produced by worms in their natural habitat. Primarily found in Asia there are several types of

silk like tussah silk and wild silk etc. * Acrylic, it is a synthetic fiber. It has a soft, wool-like hand, and is generally able to be dyed in a wide range of brilliant colors. Excellent sunlight resistance and wrinkle resistance is it's great feature. * Velvet which is another type of popular fabric is basically a warp pile cloth in which rows of short cut pile stand so close together as to form an even, uniform surface. Velvet is appealing in look and with soft. A different fiber including silk is used in making of velvet. * Damask is mainly made in china and it is firm, glossy jacquard-patterned fabric. It is a reversible fabric characterized by a combination of satin and sateen weaves. You can distinguish it from the ground by its contrasting luster.

Advantages and Disadvantages of Natural and man-made fibers A. Natural Fiber: COTTON Advantages

Disadvantages

a) Cotton is washable and durable, holding up well a) As it has no elasticity, it wrinkles easily after many launderings. (however, wrinkle-resistant finishes have recently been created that make cotton easier to care for). b) Cotton absorbs dyestuffs easily to produce a b) It soils easily because of the rough surface of wide range of vivid colors. cotton yarns. It also shrinks on washing, particularly when strongly alkaline washing solution is used. c) It also absorbs moisture, which makes it feel c) Cotton is weakened by hot concentrated cool against the skin in hot, humid weather. bleaches. d) Cotton is very versatile & can be made in both d) Cotton becomes weakened and yellow on light weight for summer and heavier weight for prolonged exposure to sunlight. winter. e) Cotton fabrics ranges from the light and sheer e) It creases easily and dries slowly. (such as voile and batiste) to the heavy and thick (corduroy, flannel and chenille) to the strong and sturdy (denim). f) It is relatively cheap. Source-Cotton plant. Uses- Used for making jeans, t-shirts and towels, home furnishings, rugs, and sewing thread etc.

LINEN Advantages a) The cool, crisp, lightweight qualities of linen makes it especially suited for summer clothing. b) Linen is stronger than cotton because of the greater length of the fibers and it becomes stronger still on wetting. c) Being a very good conductor of heat clothes made from it are cool to wear. d) As it has smooth surface, linen does not soil readily. Stains remain on surface which makes them easier to remove. e) Linen can withstand high ironing temperatures.

Disadvantages a) Linen is the least elastic of the natural fibers and linen garments creases badly. b) Linen has poorer affinity for dyes. c) It is expensive. d) It is very flammable.

Source- Flax Uses- used to make summer clothing, tea towels and tablecloths.

SILK Advantages a) The silk fiber is triangular and reflects light giving silk its unique luster. b) It takes dyes with exceptional depth and clarity and has a luxurious feel. It adds elegance to any garment. c) Silk has insulation properties making the water feel cool in summer and warm in winter. d) Silk drapes exceptionally well, is very strong yet lightweight and is comfortable as well as beautiful. e) It does not soil easily.

Source- Silk worm Uses- It is used for evening wear and ties.

Disadvantages a) Silk fabrics can be seriously damaged by perspiration. b) It scorches easily. c) Silk is expensive. d) Strength of silk decreases slightly on wetting.

WOOL Advantages

Disadvantages

a) Wool fiber has an unusual ability to absorb and evaporate moisture.

a) Wet wool felts during knead and pressing. However it could prevent with easy care treatment or a blending with polyester which does not felt without chemical treatment. b) Wool is vulnerable to moth. However it could be prevented against moth by a special treatment.

b) Wool fibers are firm, yet soft and resilient, making wool fabrics resistant to wrinkling and comfortable to wear. c) As it is warm, wool has traditionally been used for fall and winter suits and coats. d) It has air pockets which give it insulating quality. e) It is also used in absorbing odors and noise in machinery and stereo speakers.

c) It does not have good drape and is not durable. d) If it is not dry cleaned it may shrink.

Source- sheep Uses-it is used for jumpers, suits and blankets.

B. Man- Made Fiber NYLON Advantages a) Nylon is light weight. b) It is strong, flexible, washable and colorfast. c) It is no-absorbent and fast drying. d) Smooth surface of nylon makes it resistant to soiling.

Disadvantages a) It becomes electrically charged on rubbing. b) High moisture pickup with related dimensional instability. c) High moisture absorptive degrades electrical and mechanical properties. d) High shrinkage in molded sections. e) It has low warmth.

Source-Polyamide; synthetically made. Uses- Sportswear, fleece jackets, socks and seat belts etc.

POLYSTER Advantages

Disadvantages

a) Polyester is highly wrinkle-resistant and easy to care for. b) It has a soft handle a good drape. c) It is very durable.

a) It has low warmth. b) Polyester is non-absorbent. c) Oily and greasy stains are absorbed into the fibers and are difficult to remove.

d) It can be recycled. e) It is crease resistant and fast drying.

Source- organic polyester synthetically made. Uses- Polyester is used for raincoats, fleece jackets, children’s nightwear, medical textiles and working clothes.

VISCOSE Advantages a) Viscose yarn has better water absorbing quality. It is air permeable. b) Viscose yarn has a strong dying and draping behavior. These qualities give it an excellent advantage in using Viscose yarn for weaving, knitting, embroidery, braids, and laces manufacturing. c) Viscose yarns have a high grade of moisture absorbent quality giving the user comfort in wear. d) Regenerated cellulose filaments are highly lustrous. e) It does not soil easily.

Source- Cellulosic vegetables. Uses- It is used for shirts, dresses and linings etc.

Disadvantages a) Viscose is not durable and creases easily. b) Shrinkage occurs on washing.

c) Viscose is not very elastic. d) The fibers are damaged by heat and should be ironed on cooler settings.

ACRYLIC Advantages a)Acrylic fabrics are warm, soft, light and resilient. b)It is easy to care for durable and crease resistant. c)It is non-absorbent and fast drying. d)Fabrics made from acrylic do not soil or stain easily and dirt is easily removed from them. e)Acrylic fibers are very resistant to degradation by sunlight.

Source- synthetically made Organic poly acrylonitrile. Uses- It is used for jumpers, fleece jackets and blankets.

Disadvantages a)Acrylic fibers are highly flammable and produce poisonous gas when burned. b)They are not as strong as nylon and polyester. c)It is hard to pack it. d)It is a bad heat resistance.