Spinning Norms

SPINNING NORMS Prof. R. Chattopadhyay IIT, Delhi

Table 1 Cotton fibre characteristics for different yarn counts Yarn Count (Nm) < 16

16-23

24-32

Cotton Variety

Staple length (mm)

2.5% SL (mm)

UR Fineness Tenacity Trash (%) (Mic) g/tex (%)

Deshi, < 20 Wagad, Striping & Comber waste

16.8 –

48 -

4.7-

16.2-

22.1

53

7.4

21.9

Wagad, 20 - 23 Virnar, Jayadhar & Stripping

21.5 -

48 -

4.6 –

1 5.0 -

23.4

53

5.2

21.9

Virnar, AK- 22 - 24 235, Gaorani, J34, CJ-73, Y-1, V-797, F-414

23.226.1

4652

3.95.2

16.9 24.0

3- 10

5-10

3 - 10

Yarn Count (Nm)

Cotton Variety

Staple 2.5% length S L (mm) (mm)

UR (%)

Finenes Tenacity Trash s g/tex (%) (Mic)

33-42

J-34, CJ-73, 16.9- 24 23.2-26.1 46- 52 Y-1, V-797, F-414, A51/9

3.8- 5.2 16.9- 24.0 3- 10

43-52

F-414, A18.151/9, SRT-1, 22.2 1007, Laxmi, Shankar-4 (B), JKHY-1

23.4-29.5 44.649.4

3.6- 4.6 18.1- 22.2 6- 8

53-62

Digvijay, co2, SRT-1, 1007, Laxmi, Shankar-4 (B)

23.7-29.5 44.649.0

3.5- 4.6 18.1- 22.2 6-7

Yarn Count (Nm)

Cotton Variety

Staple length (mm)

2.5% SL (mm)

UR (%)

Finenes Tenacity Trash s g/tex (%) (Mic)

63-70

1007, Laxmi, Shankar-4 (A), (B) & (E), American 1.1/8

26.329.5

44.649.4

3.64.0

18.222.2

6-7

71-102

Shankar-4 (A), MCU-5 (A) & (B), Varalaxmi (B) Sudan GI, Sudan GS

25.634.9

45.749.0

2.84.0

21.228.3

21.228.3

103-137 Varalaxmi (A) & (B), MCU-5 (A), (Sudan GS, Giza-68)

25.834.9

4250

2.84.0

21.228.3

5-6

Yarn Count (Nm)

Cotton Variety

138-170 Varalaxmi (A), Suvin (Giza-45)

Staple length (mm) -

170 and Suvin (Giza- 41.0 above 45)

2.5% SL (mm)

UR (%)

Finenes Tenacity Trash s g/tex (%) (Mic)

35-37.4 45-49.5 2.7-3.1 30.1-32.6 3

37.6

49.5

2.7-3.0 30.8-33.0 2

Note: These are only indicative values. The characteristics are variable from year to year. Source: CIRCOT, Mumbai; KVIC, Mumbai.

Table 2 Properties of polyester to be blended with cotton for different end-uses End-uses

Yarn count group (Nm)

Length (mm)

Fineness (den)

Tenacity (g/ den)

Shirting and70 -100 sarees

38- 44

1.2

4.5- 6.0

Suiting

38- 44

1.5

4.5 - 5.5

2/50- 2/70

Table 3 Norm for yarn count CV% Metric count group

Count CV%

Cotton Coarser (Up to 24) Medium (24 to 70) Finer (Above 70)

10 8 6

Polyvastra For all count groups

6

Table 4 Norms for yarn CSP Lea dimensions Metric count group (Nm)

80 threads, 120 yard

100 threads, 100m

Normal (Nm × Kg)

Superior (Nm × Kg)

Normal (Nm × Kg)

Superior (Nm × Kg)

Cotton Below 6 6 – 16 16 – 24 24 – 36 36 – 50 50 – 70 70 – 85 85 – 100 100–140 Above 140

* 750 950 1000 1050 1150 1200 1500 1520 1450

* 900 1050 1100 1200 1270 1300 1650 1700 1550

* 900 1140 1200 1260 1380 1440 1800 1820 1740

* 1080 1260 1320 1520 1520 1560 1980 2040 1860

Polyvastra Below 36 36 – 70 70 – 100

* 2080 2080

* 2280 2150

* 2500 2500

* 2740 2580

Table 5 Norm for CSP CV% Metric count group

CSP CV%

Cotton

12

Polyvastra

12

Table 6 Norms for yarn unevenness values (U%) Metric count group

Unevenness (U%)

Cotton For all count groups

22

Polyvastra For all count groups

19

Table 7 Imperfections in khadi yarn Metric count group

Total Imperfections (Nos / Km)

Thick Places (Nos/Km)

Thin Places (Nos/Km)

Neps (Nos/Km)

Cotton Below 6 6 – 16 16 – 24 24 – 36 36 – 50 50 – 70 70 – 85 85 – 100 100–140 Above 140

* * * 4700 5800 8300 * * * 7700

* * * 1600 1700 2500 * * * 2100

* * * 1600 1600 2450 * * * 2500

* * * 1250 2100 2600 * * * 2900

Polyvastra Below 36 36 – 70 70 – 100 100 -140

* 3800 * *

* 1400 * *

* 930 * *

* 1600 * *

Table 8 Appearance grade for khadi yarn Metric count group Cotton Up to 16 16 to 36 Above 36 Polyvastra For all count groups

Appearance grade D D or D+ D or C C

Table 9 Norm for twist in the yarn Metric count group

Minimum twist Maximum twist Minimum twist Maximum twist (Turns/inch) (Turns/inch) (Turns/cm) (Turns/cm)

Cotton Below 6 6 – 16 16 – 24 24 – 36 36 – 50 50 – 70 70 – 85 85 – 100 100–140 Above 140

* 11.0 15.0 19.0 20.5 23.0 26.0 25.0 32.0 38.0

* 15.0 19.0 22.0 25.0 27.0 30.0 39.0 40.0 50.0

* 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 13 15

* 6 7 9 10 11 12 15 16 20

Polyvastra Below 36 36 – 70 70 – 100 100 -140

* 20.0 23.0 *

* 23.0 26.0 *

* 8 9 *

* 9 10 *

Table 10 BIS Norms of some cotton khadi fabrics (Constructional parameters and property) Types of Fabric

Metric Count of Yarn (Nm

Thread Density

Warp

Weft

Ends/cm Picks/cm

Bed sheets (Bleached)

27

27

Bunting Cloth (Dyed)

17

14

14

Pugre Cloth (Bleached or Dyed)

30

30

16

16 14 (Double) (Double)

Mass g/m2

Breaking load (on 10x20 cm strip, N Warp

Weft

190

490

390

13

190

450

330

16

110

334

294

Types of Fabric

Metric Count of Yarn (Nm Warp

Honey a) 14 Comb and Huck-a-Back b) 14 Towels (Bleached) c) 17 d) 24 e) 34

Weft

Thread Density Ends/cm Picks/cm

a) 14

11 (Double) b) 10 11 (Double) c) 17 8 (Double) d) 20 18 (Double) e) 34 11 (Double)

Long Cloth (Bleached)

27

20

Dosuti (Bleached or

a) 27

a) 27

17

9 (Double) 7 (Double) 8 (Double) 13 (Double) 9 (Double) 17

14 13 (Double) (Double)

Mass g/m2

Breaking load (on 10x20 cm strip, N Warp

Weft

360

450

430

325

620

530

198

450

450

290

1200

660

218

630

530

160

392

372

205

760

660

Types of Fabric

Napkins and Table Cloth (Bleached)

Metric Count of Yarn (Nm Warp

Weft

Thread Density Ends/cm Picks/cm

a) 27

a) 27

14 13 (Double) (Double) 17 17

b) 27

b) 20

Dungri Cloth (Bleached)

17

17

13

Dusters (Bleached)

17

14

Lining Cloth (Dyed)

20

Sheeting Cloth (Bleached)

20

Mass g/m2

Breaking load (on 10x20 cm strip, N Warp

Weft

205

760

660

160

390

370

12

180

390

370

13

12

170

450

430

17

16

14

185

450

430

20

16

16

170

450

450

Types of Fabric

Metric Count of Yarn (Nm Warp

Weft

Sponge Cloth 200/2 14 or 7 (Grey)

Thread Density Ends/cm Picks/cm

9

9

Tolerance percentage for thread density = ±1 Method of test: 1. Thread density: IS 1963: 1981 2. Mass (g/m2)- IS 1964:1970, 3. Breaking load- IS 1969:1985

Mass g/m2

90

Breaking load (on 10x20 cm strip, N Warp

-

Weft

-

Table 11 Constructional parameters and physical property of additional khadi fabrics Types of Fabric

Kurta, pajama & salwar suit

Dhoti Saree

Metric count Range

Thread density (per cm) Range

GSM (g/m2)

Yarn count used (Nm)

Warp

Weft

Warp

Weft

20-30

24- 27

20- 27

17- 21

11- 14

119- 138

30-50

31- 49

29- 47

16- 29

14- 21

95- 148

50-80

52

52

37

26

125

80-100

-

-

-

-

-

Above 100

101- 126

108- 165

37- 61

40- 44

59- 107

Medium

40- 59

51- 58

20- 25

16- 23

82- 90

Superfine

108- 145

105- 140

33- 35

27- 51

59- 63

Medium

50

54

20

16

74

Fine

83

82

36

26

78

Types of Fabric

Kurta, pajama & salwar suit

Dhoti Saree

Yarn count used (Nm)

Breaking Strength (N) Range

Elongation % Range

Warp

Weft

Warp

Weft

20-30

120- 235

95- 170

7- 10

10- 14

30-50

140- 330

125- 210

8- 18

8- 27

50-80

245

210

11

11

80-100

-

-

-

-

Above 100

110- 305

170- 225

8-9

8- 9

Medium

165- 200

95- 190

11- 12

10- 17

Superfine

120- 125

135- 205

11- 13

8-9

Medium

160

140

7

12

Fine

235

190

12

9

Superfine

140- 160

140- 145

6-9

5- 7

Types of Fabric

Kurta, pajama & salwar suit

Dhoti Saree

Tearing strength (Kg) Fabric dimensions Range Yarn count (cm) Range used (Nm) Warp Weft Width Length

No of samples tested

20-30

1-3

1-2.5

88-89

-

3

30-50

1-3.5

1-2

84-107

-

9

50-80

2

2

-

-

1

80-100

-

-

-

-

0

Above 100

0.5-1

0.5-1.5

-

-

2

Medium

1-2

1-2

105-112

350-380

3

Superfine

0.5-1

0.5-1.5

120-124

394-400

2

Medium

2.5

2.5

110

588

1

Fine

0.5

0.5

114

504

1

Superfine

0.5-1

0.5-1

115-120

520-532

2

Types of Fabric

Shirting

Coating

Lungi

Metric count Range

Thread density (per cm) Range

GSM (g/m2)

Yarn count used (Nm)

Warp

Weft

Warp

Weft

Med/coarse

31-32

7

18-19

9-10

221-223

Medium

35-39

40-45

18-26

14-19

97-124

Fine/coarse

70

13

21

10

133

Fine

69

65

34

35

114

Fine/superfine

95

108

30

44

88

Superfine

141-155

100-172

57-87

50-73

75-113

Bundy

28-43

4-9

14-26

8-9

197-275

Pant

10

11

26

11

408

Med/coarse

26

15

18

12

160

Medium

27-41

27-48

18-23

12-19

107-124

Fine

61

70

26

19

83

Types of Fabric

Shirting

Coating

Lungi

Breaking Strength (N) Range

Elongation % Range

Yarn count used (Nm)

Warp

Weft

Warp

Weft

Med/coarse

215-220

185-200

15-17

9-12

Medium

210-250

100-240

8-10

12-19

Fine/coarse

100

210

14

8

Fine

160

220

10

12

Fine/superfine

140

190

10

10

Superfine

200-235

205-305

9-15

9-11

Bundy

160-260

195-370

12-24

11-15

Pant

1110

520

14

11

Med/coarse

240

250

26

19

Medium

225-230

145-175

14-15

8-16

Fine

170

135

14

8

Types of Fabric

Shirting

Coating

Lungi

Tearing strength (Kg) Fabric dimensions Range (cm) Range Warp

Weft

Width

Length

No of samples tested

Med/coarse

4-4.5

2.5-3

91-98

-

2

Medium

1-2.5

0.5-1.5

83-84

-

3

Fine/coarse

2

1

90

-

1

Fine

1

1

89

-

1

Fine/superfine

1

0.5

100

-

1

Superfine

1-3

0.5-3.5

91-100

-

3

Bundy

3-4.5

2.5-4

72-87

-

4

Pant

2

3

87

-

1

Med/coarse

2.5

4

110

218

1

Medium

1-1.5

2-4

108-116

204-230

2

Fine

3

2

125

176

1

Yarn count used (Nm)

Types of Fabric

Towel Bed sheets

Gamchha

Metric count Range

Thread density (per cm) Range

GSM (g/m2)

Yarn count used (Nm)

Warp

Weft

Warp

Weft

Turkish

18-19

27-42

26-27

16-19

231-239

Honey comb

19-39

10-38

25-32

15-24

164-311

Huck-a-back

7

5

8

8

467

Single thread

19-32

5-35

14-26

8-17

141-262

Double thread

29-37

33-41

19-29

13-26

130-178

Med/coarse

25-36

13-18

17-21

12-17

148-178

Medium

55

56

24

18

77

Fine/medium

64

51

24

19

86

Types of Fabric

Towel Bed sheets

Gamchha

Breaking Strength (N) Range

Elongation % Range

Yarn count used (Nm)

Warp

Weft

Warp

Weft

Turkish

275-295

135-175

12-15

6-8

Honey comb

280-900

170-805

13-25

17-19

Huck-a-back

315

145

20

14

Single thread

190-290

185-340

11-17

12-17

Double thread

120-285

60-260

7-13

8-15

Med/coarse

205-340

160-320

18-22

12-18

Medium

135

115

13

10

Fine/medium

120

265

14

10

Types of Fabric

Towel Bed sheets

Gamchha

Yarn count used (Nm)

Tearing strength (Kg) Range

Fabric dimensions (cm) Range

Warp

Weft

Width

Length

No of samples tested

Turkish

3.5-4

3-3.5

67-68

128-136

2

Honey comb

4-4.5

3-3.5

65-73

128-164

3

Huck-a-back

BC

BC

67

136

1

Single thread

BC

BC

126-142

230-260

3

Double thread

1.5-4

2-3.5

200-222

250-300

3

Med/coarse

1.5-5

1-4

75-76

160-165

2

Medium

1.5

1

90

152

1

Fine/medium

1.5

1.5

90

308

1

Types of Fabric

Metric count Range

Thread density (per cm) Range

GSM (g/m2)

Yarn count used (Nm)

Warp

Weft

Warp

Weft

2/34

33-34

30-31

16-29

12-16

100-143

14

24

17

26

19

225

Single

20-32

3-9

12-26

7-9

200-367

Double

5-6

4-6

13-14

7-8

484-489

Loom

2-20

1-5

2-7

6-30

514-937

Dari

Punja

2

1

17

3

1446

Polyvastra Coating

Dosuti

26

23-26

25-27

15-17

171-182

Single

53-60

43-56

27

19-22

97-102

Shirting

Double

22-46

22-49

18-41

17-28

131-168

Curtain Khes

Types of Fabric

Breaking Strength (N) Range

Elongation % Range

Yarn count used (Nm)

Warp

Weft

Warp

Weft

2/34

205-415

175-215

6-8

2-19

14

235

290

13

15

Single

140-350

120-425

10-12

10-14

Double

210-265

115-155

15-16

11-14

Loom

100-210

635-1015

5-10

16-27

Dari

Punja

970

475

BC

BC

Polyvastra Coating

Dosuti

1060-1090

650-770

15-18

14-22

Single

400-405

230-415

10-13

14-26

Shirting

Double

580-820

405-655

12-18

16-18

Curtain Khes

Tearing strength (Kg) Range

Fabric dimensions (cm) Range

Types of Fabric

Yarn count used (Nm)

Warp

Weft

Width

Length

No of samples tested

Curtain

2/34

3-4.5

3-3.5

85-124

-

2

14

BC

BC

80

-

1

Single

BC

BC

120-125

220-225

3

Double

4-4.5

3-3.5

120-128

245-256

2

Loom

BC

BC

92-117

192-200

3

Dari

Punja

BC

BC

131

208

1

Polyvastra Coating

Dosuti

3.5-4.5

3-4

71-72

-

2

Single

1-2

1-2

117

-

2

Shirting Double 4-4.5 3-3.5 BC: Indicates beyond the capacity of the 73-90 machine -

4

Khes

Table 12 Productivity of cotton yarn (gm/spl hr) Sl No.

Count (Nm)

Production (gm/spl hr)

1

6

62

2

14

42

3

35

12-13

4

45

12-13

5

50

12-13

6

80

7-8

7

100

7-8

8

150

2.5

Table 13 Productivity of cotton yarn (No. of hanks per 8 hour) Count (Nm)

Production (No. of hanks per 8 hour)

Coarse

35-38

Medium

32-35

Fine

30-32

Table 14 Productivity of cotton fabric [production/hr (mts)] Metric count Types of fabric

Warp

Weft

Grey width (Inches)

Pajama (Dosuti)

35/2

35/2

Pajama (Eksuti)

35

Shirting

Thread density (Per inch) Warp

Weft

Production (mts/hr)

36

80

70

0.7

35

36

48

44

0.8

40

40

45

40

40

1

Shirting

40

40

36

50

46

0.75

Shirting

40

40

36

48

48

0.7

Shirting

44

44

54

40

36

1

Shirting

100/2

100/2

36

60

54

0.5

Shirting

60

60

45

60

54

1

Shirting

60

60

40

48

46

0.8

Metric count Types of fabric

Warp

Weft

Grey width (Inches)

Shirting

60

60

Shirting

100

Shirting

Thread density (Per inch) Warp

Weft

Production (mts/hr)

45

56

54

0.75

100

45

76

72

1

100

100

45

76

45

0.75

Shirting

100

100

45

76

72

0.6

Shirting

100

100

36

76

72

0.7

Shirting (Checks)

100

100

36

60

55

0.5

Bed Sheet (Do Suti)

35/2

35/2

48

80

72

0.7

Bed Sheet

26/2

4

60

30

30

1.2

Bed Sheet (Twill)

30/2

4

60

30

30

1

Metric count Types of fabric

Warp

Weft

Grey width (Inches)

Coating

32/2

32/2

Coating

56/2

Coating (Poly)

Thread density (Per inch) Warp

Weft

Production (mts/hr)

34

40

36

1

56/2

38

56

50

0.9

70/3

70/3

34

56

50

0.8

Coating (Poly)

70/3

70/3

34

56

50

1.5

Coating (Bundy)

32

32

28

40

40

1

Denim

10

10

34

128

42

0.4

Dari (3*6)

20/6

4/4

36

10

10

0.3

Dari (9*12)

20/9

6/4

144

7

8

0.3

Dhoti

100

100

50

80

76

0.8

Metric count Types of fabric

Warp

Weft

Grey width (Inches)

Saree (Plain)

100

100

Saree (Colour)

100

Saree (Patta)

Thread density (Per inch) Warp

Weft

Production (mts/hr)

45

60

56

0.6

100

45

80

75

0.4

60

60

45

40

45

1

Saree with Border

60

60

45

40

40

0.7

Lungi

40

40

45

48

46

0.8

Lungi

60

60

45

40

40

0.7

Lungi (Colour)

34

34

46

40

40

1

Towel (Mat)

20/2

34/2

36

34

34

1

Essential Test Equipments Required for Routine Quality Checking Fibre Sl No.

Name of the Instrument

Property assessed

BIS Standard

1

Baer sorter

Fibre length

IS 10014 (Part 1): 1984

2

Fibre fineness tester

Fibre fineness IS 3674: 1966 (Micronaire value)

3

Wrap reel for sliver/roving

Sliver / roving count

-

Yarn Sl No.

Name of the Instrument

Property assessed

BIS Standard

1

Wrap reel

Lea formation

2

Lea strength tester

Lea strength (CSP) IS 1671: 1977

3

Twist tester (Single & The amount of double yarn) twist per cm or inch

IS 832: 1985

4

Yarn board winder

IS 1671: 1977

Appearance grading of yarn

-

Fabric Sl No.

Name of the Instrument

Property to be BIS Standard measured

1

Pick glass

Thread density

IS 1963: 1981

2

Measuring tape

Length & width

-

3

Fabric strength tester Strength

4

Round cutter

GSM

IS 1969: 1985 -

Chemical processing Sl No.

Name of the Instrument

Property to be BIS Standard measured

1

Light fastness tester Light fastness

IS 2454: 1985

2

Launderometer

Washing fastness

IS 687, IS 3361, IS 764, IS 765, IS 3417

3

Crockmeter

Rubbing fastness

IS 105

4

Shrinkage Template Dimensional changes

IS 10099: 1982

5

Spectrophotometer Whiteness measurement

-