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Fashion Moments.................34 Best in Show..............................36 Labelled........................................38 Icon.................................................38 Fashion Feature.......................39

Shorts Shaikh Majed Al-Sabah Steps Down Kuwaiti retailer Shaikh Majed Al-Sabah said on Wednesday he would step down as chairman of Villa Moda. He cited “differences of opinion for the brand’s future” with its majority shareholder, the Dubai International Financial Centre. According to Women’s Wear Daily, Al-Sabah plans to devote himself to new retail projects in the region. Marchesa Bags It Georgina Chapman, designer of the dress label Marchesa, will present her first bag collection on September 16 in New York. Chapman told Women’s Wear Daily that she designed her bags much like her dresses, with draping, beading and rosettes as accoutrements. After all, what would a Marchesa piece be without rosettes? (Boutique 1, 044257888)

Just Not Posh Enough Contrary to popular belief, Victoria Beckham is still not good enough to grace the cover of US Vogue. Rumours proved false as Posh turned up on the cover of the October issue of Elle looking as though she was constructed out of Lego. Subtler tan + breast reduction = possible Vogue cover? (www.elle.com)

Not Just a Label Too often, fashionistas get caught up in names — that’s where Not Just A Label can help. The online shop is dedicated to unknown designers and one-offs. Each month, the site features a different personality who curates a collection based on the site’s offerings. This month, rising star model Lara Stone acts as stylist. (www.notjustalabel.com)

{Great Fashion Moments}

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Truman Capote’s Black and White Ball

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The colourful writer Truman Capote hosted Frank Sinatra, Mia Farrow, CZ Guest, Henry Ford, Lynda Bird Johnson, Gianni Agnelli, Arthur Schlesinger and Gloria Guinness, in addition to 540 of society’s movers and shakers in an elaborate party at New York’s Plaza Hotel in 1966. The invite-only party, said to be in honour of Washington Post publisher Kay Graham but really to publicise the host’s riveting book In Cold Blood, symbolised an era pulsing with a sense of modernity, while remaining true to the traditions of old Hollywood glamour. Capote mixed stars from the social and entertainment realms with political heavyweights. Known for being notoriously media savvy, Truman invited the press to document the event for the world to see. The theme was black and white and attendees were advised to wear masks to add some mystery to the event. As such, hair became an outlet of expression for women. Attended exclusively by the beautiful people, it was Penelope Tree who stole the night. More undressed than dressed in a flowing black tunic and form-fitting tights, her entrance signaled the presence of a new generation. Fashion photographers Cecil Beaton and Richard Avedon were so enchanted, they conspired on the spot to turn her into a cover girl — which is what she became.

Best in Show

Matteo Marzotto Dashingly handsome, Matteo Marzotto wears a midnight blue silk lapelled black tux with a red silk pocket square for a little colour. His double-breasted vest is a departure from the classic, but it goes well with his bow-tie and tuxedo shirt.

Erin Wasson Model Erin Wasson attends the Opening Ceremony launch in Tokyo wearing leopard print, mid-length shorts and a plain jersey tank. The accessories punch up the outfit, as she layers multiple necklaces and bracelets to transition the look from summer to fall.

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Objects of Desire

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Chien Vivant pet beds Let’s face it: most people consider their pet a member of the family, so why shouldn’t our furry friends be relieved of the hard floor and given a soft spot to rest their heads just like the rest of us? Chien Vivant, the high-end purveyor of all things pet-related, is offering a collection of 14 new couture beds ranging in price from $1,500 to $1,800. The beds have sophisticated French names, such as Le Bijou, Napolione and Marsilles, and have that certain je ne sais quoi to back it up. Crafted from fine materials such as silk velvet, crushed velvet, faux leather and suede and adorned with crystal bows, jewels and medallions, these beds are for the pet owner who really wants to show their puppy love. As if providing your pooch with a designer bed was not enough, Chien Vivant will personalise the bed by monogramming the headboard with Swarovski crystals. Chien Vivant is definitely a dog’s best friend. (www.chienvivant.com)

Labelled Elizabeth & James While often in the press for their weight issues and romantic dalliances, Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen are collectively a consumer goods powerhouse who learned very early in their careers that they were marketable. Founders and now controlling partners of their company, Dualstar Entertainment Group, Mary-Kate and Ashley are notoriously reclusive. The adorable twins have opened up a little, sharing their sartorial taste with the public through their clothing lines Elizabeth & James, The Row and E&J. Always passionate about dressing, the twin sisters launched Elizabeth & James in 2007. Their design approach is to bring a couture sensibility to the contemporary customer, fusing uptown and downtown NYC, masculine and feminine and casual and dressy. Signature elements include the menswear-inspired blazer and dress shirt, delicate mini-dresses, detailing, skinny pants, sequins and unusual fabrics. Their eclectic style is evident throughout the line — washed leather jackets and mini-skirts, twill military-inspired tops and supersoft shrunken and oversize T-shirts can be seen simultaneously on the twins and on the racks in the finest department stores worldwide. Unlike celebrities who merely lend their names to a label, the Olsens are heavily involved in designing. (Elizabeth & James is sold at Boutique 1, 04-425 7888)

{ Icon}

w./the cut/11.09.2009/ Laura Gatsos

Anna dello Russo

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She has a presence on almost every blog dedicated to fashion and style, and she is one of The Sartorialist's most photographed subjects. Granted, she has the enormous budget it requires to dress in couture daily, but Russo also has the inherent knack for putting an outfit together. Be it fringes, feathers, bold colours, extreme shoulders or cocktail dresses in broad daylight, the fashion director-at-large for Vogue Nippon always looks fabulous. Usually donning a look straight off the runway, Russo pays careful attention to accessories — her perennial favourites include vertiginous heels (she has more than 4,000 pairs) by Azzedine Alaia, Christian Louboutin and Balenciaga and statement jewellery by Bulgari. Russo’s approach to dressing can be characterised as fearless — she is not afraid to wear the most avant-garde creations on the street. Her enthusiasm for dressing and the unabashed pleasure she takes in discovering designers, is an inspiration to those who follow fashion. One blogger noted “she makes me want to try a little harder, be a little bolder and take more risks.” Russo happily admits that she has an obsession with fashion, as evidenced by the glass enclosure in which she displays her favourite shoes. She also keeps a separate apartment exclusively for her clothing, where everything is tagged and enveloped as she dreams of one day holding her own exhibition — most of us would prefer a private sale.

Modelling in Dubai

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Georgina Wilson-Powell explores the world of modelling in Dubai

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s Dubai has grown into a global metropolis and become a regional hub for the media, fashion and advertising industries, a need for local models has arisen. As befits such a multi-cultural city, Dubai offers opportunities for a more diverse range of models than the old-guard fashion capitals of Europe. “In London, you start your modelling career at 13 and you’re an old model at 22 or 23,” says Eliza Galbraith, head of booking at Bareface. “Out here in Dubai, you’ve got more of a chance of becoming a catwalk and fashion model as Dubai doesn’t adhere to the size zero figure that is popular in oth-

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er cities. It’s easier to be still working if you don’t fit an exact mould and you work longer. There are models here working in their 30s.” Despite the stereotypes commonly ascribed to models, not all of the women on Bareface’s books are leggy, blonde, thin waifs; in fact, they are in the minority. The agency has separate divisions to reflect the diverse demand in Dubai for all types of people. It does have the top end — the girls who might grace the cover of Harpers’ Bazaar or who go on to strut the catwalks of Europe — but the pool is relatively small. “We have what we call ‘models one’, which is the high end fashion girls. Then we have what we call ‘models two’, which has less strict restrictions and is for more commercial and lifestyle work,” Galbraith says. “In Dubai, there’s far more of this type of job so as someone placed in models two, you might actually get more work. “We have a division called ‘cast and kids’ and then we have our entertainers section, which includes everyone from jugglers to dancers and singers.” This categorisation is necessary for the agency as there is a growing demand in the region for all types of models with all types of skills. As Dubai and Abu Dhabi increasingly play an important part in staging global events or act as locations for various film and TV projects, the demand for local people to fill modelling or acting roles increases. It’s this kind of demand that means Bareface has a wide range of models — one that expands beyond the choice of blondes or brunettes weakly offered up as proof of diversity on many runways. “We have lots of Arabic men on our books,” reveals Galbraith. “We have lots of people who are perfect for extras work in films and commercial shoots, who are just normal people, and we have a huge number of older Arabic guys who play grandfather roles in TV adverts or corporate videos. They love coming in and doing a bit of acting — it’s such a different experience from their normal job.

We’re always looking for new kids who can act or photograph well, too.” Mikaela Rijkmans was one such kid. Originally from South Africa, she’s now 16 years old but started modelling when she was only two. “I’ve been mostly cast for editorials, but I would love to work more overseas. Modelling can have really long hours and it’s hard sitting still, but it’s great meeting different people. The best shoot so far was for Cartier — it was such good fun.” Galbraith says running an agency in the Middle East also comes with unique challenges. “We do have to be very proactive outside the models one division as a lot of people don’t even realise we exist, especially Lebanese or Arabic families, who are always in demand

‘If we see any potential Arabic models, then we always take time to talk to the family and respect any cultural concerns,’ says Eliza Galbraith, Bareface amongst our clients. “If we see any potential Arabic models, then we always take time to talk to the family and make sure they realise what is involved and respect any cultural concerns. “Any model, no matter what division, has to have their parents’ consent if they are under 21.” As Dubai is home to so many cultures, Bareface’s models often need to have a Middle Eastern look, even if they are not from the region. Many South American models double for Middle Eastern ones, but this can lead to problems with speaking parts if Arabic is needed. Claire Webb, a Canadian model with Bareface with West Indian and British parents, has made her multi-

cultural versatility work for her over the last 10 years. She’s now 32 and has worked on a range of commercial projects, including adverts alongside heart throbs George Clooney and Antonio Banderas. “I’ve worked with beauty brands like MAC and Nivea, on glossy magazine shoots, with companies like Emirates Airlines...all sorts,” she explains. “I thought I would try it for a while after studying finance, but I fell in love with modelling. “It can be a lucrative career with travel opportunities, flexible hours and social networking. I’ll never forget working with Antonio Banderas on a TV commercial for his cologne. It was amazing to work with such a skilled actor, and in between takes he even taught me his tango moves.” As well as scouting in malls, at drama groups and productions like the recent High School Musical, Bareface receives a lot of applications through its website and Facebook group. The team have noticed a rise in applications since Tyra Banks’ America’s Next Top Model show has become so popular, with regional variations flooding prime time TV. It’s no surprise really, as the show reveals a lifestyle and career that for many girls all over the world, is very appealing. “It has made a difference. Everyone is obsessed with reality TV and everyone thinks they can be a model. It is great for us that lots of people now get in touch and there’s a much wider understanding of what models are required to do, which wasn’t there a few years ago. “But now everyone wants to be famous and it’s a hard fact that there is a lot of rejection in this industry,” says Galbraith. “Telling a girl she’s not right for models one, but is perfect for models two can be tough sometimes, but if someone wants to be a model then they need to develop thick skin.” There are plenty of applications that don’t get accepted, from friends of a scouted teenager to parents sending in photos of their children, or just people that don’t fit the mould that Bareface’s clients are after. European looking models, ie peo-

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Modelling in Dubai

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CATWALK DIVA: French model Sixtine Duprez

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‘You have to place yourself in a different world to make the job work. When the whole team is happy, I think I did my job well,’ says Irene van Ruitenburg

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ple with blonde hair and blue eyes, might be popular in Europe, but here in Dubai, the demand is very small. Plenty of stunning European girls get turned down, not because they’re not good enough, but because they’re not suitable. “People forget that just because you are beautiful, or you think your child is the best looking child ever, doesn’t mean that they will photograph well. Being photogenic is something completely different,” says Galbraith. Modelling in Dubai, unlike the modelling in America’s Next Top Model, is not all designer dresses, parties and Jimmy Choos. Far from it. Modelling is hard work and even once accepted by an agency, models have to get used to a lot of rejection, no matter which division they end up in at Bareface. “Anyone interested in this industry should realise that it is a hard industry to work in and should expect a level of rejection,” says Galbraith. “You might go to 25 castings and only get one job. “The rejection is huge, and there are hundreds of girls competing all the time. You have to be tough, be on it all the time and be hard working.” No matter what type of model, however, there are some qualities that all top models have. There’s a lot more to it than just a good smile and sitting still. Helena Christensen famously said, “When you are modelling, you are creating a picture, a still life, perhaps something like a silent film. You convey emotion but you are

Modelling in Dubai

only using your body.” Galbraith says from an agency point of view, there are other qualities below the surface that bookers will look for. “A good model is loyal, outgoing and friendly. A lot of it is about personality — you’re dealing with make-up artists, stylists, hairdressers and you need to be able to deal with them all professionally. Then there’s the direction. A successful model must be able to take direction from the photographer and listen to everything he wants them to do and to portray.” Model Irene van Ruitenburg agrees, “You have to place yourself in a different world to make the job work.” Originally from Holland, Ruitenburg has been modelling for eight years. “When the whole team is happy and working well together, then I think I did my job well.” However, whilst Dubai’s modelling industry is growing, it’s a far cry from the kind of market where girls won’t get out of bed for less than $10,000 a day. Most models in Dubai work part-time. “I work as a marketing director for real estate company Engel & Vickers in Abu Dhabi,” says Sixtine Duprez, a French catwalk model who has been modelling for nine years. “But modelling gave me the confidence to go and do that; you meet so many new people and have so many experiences. I love working during fashion week. “It’s just amazing with all the different layouts and the tension before a show.” But what about the boys? “A lot of the male models are cabin crew with airlines and many people have regular jobs,” says Galbraith. “There’s not enough work out here yet for most models to be full time and there’s no concept of exclusivity so everyone works freelance, often signed to several agencies, which makes our job harder. “In Paris or New York, models are exclusive to agencies which means the agencies can guarantee a better wage for the model and there is an official or non-official industry standard. “Out here, there’s no such thing

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RISING STAR: South African model Mikaela Rijkmans

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Modelling in Dubai MODEL CITIZEN: Head of Booking, Bareface,Eliza Galbraith

and clients still believe that they can get an entire commercial shot for money that elsewhere wouldn’t even cover the photographer, let alone anything else. It’s tough going sometimes, but it is improving.” With Dubai Fashion week in October and an autumn line-up including the Abu Dubai Grand Prix and the Dubai International Film Festival, demand for Bareface’s models is at an all time high. But for those who are interested in getting into modelling, remember it’s not all about looking good. Determination, ambition and a thick skin are just as important. [email protected]