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UNITED KINGDOM. London Spanish Tourist Office PO BOX 4009. London W1A 6NB % 44207/ 486 80 77 ) 44207/ 486 80 34 www.tourspain.co.uk e-mail: [email protected] UNITED STATES OF AMERICA Los Angeles Tourist Office of Spain 8383 Wilshire Blvd, Suite 960 Beverly Hills, California 90211 % 1(323) 658 71 88 ) 1(323) 658 10 61 www.okspain.org e-mail: [email protected]
Miami Tourist Office of Spain 1221 Brickell Avenue Miami, Florida 33131 % 1(305) 358 19 92 ) 1(305) 358 82 23 www.okspain.org e-mail: [email protected] New York Tourist Office of Spain 666 Fifth Avenue 35th floor New York, New York 10103 % 1(212) 265 88 22 ) 1(212) 265 88 64 www.okspain.org e-mail: [email protected]
Spain
Segovia
SINGAPORE. Singapore Spanish Tourist Office 541 Orchard Road. Liat Tower # 09-04. 238881 Singapore % 65 67 37 30 08 ) 65 67 37 31 73 e-mail: [email protected]
Segovia
RUSSIA. Moscow Spanish Tourist Office Tverskaya – 16/2 Building 3 Moscow 103009 % (7095) 935 83 97 ) (7095) 935 83 96 www.tourspain.ru e-mail: [email protected]
Chicago Tourist Office of Spain Water Tower Place, Suite 915 East 845 North Michigan Avenue Chicago, Illinois 60611 % 1(312) 642 19 92 ) 1(312) 642 98 17 www.okspain.org e-mail: [email protected]
Spain
JAPAN. Tokyo Tourist Office of Spain Daini Toranomon Denki Bldg.6F. 3-1-10 Toranomon. Minato-Ku TOKYO-105-0001 % (813) 34 32 61 41 ) (813) 34 32 61 44 www.spaintour.com e-mail: [email protected]
EMBASSIES IN MADRID Canada Núñez de Balboa, 35 % 914 233 250 ) 914 233 251 Great Britain Fernando El Santo, 16 % 913 190 200 ) 913 081 033 Japan. Serrano, 109 % 915 907 600 ) 915 901 321 Russia. Velázquez, 155 % 915 622 264 ) 915 629 712 United States of America Serrano, 75 % 915 872 200 ) 915 872 303
EUROPEAN COMMUNITY European Regional Development Fund
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Itineraries throughout the province The Royal Route The Mudejar Route The Mountain Villages Route The Castle Route Other Places of Interest
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Introduction
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INTRODUCTION
S
egovia is a beautiful city standing on a rocky outcrop between the Eresma and Clamores rivers one thousand meters (3,300 feet) above sea level and twelve kilometers (7 miles) from the Sierra de Guadarrama. Capital of the province of the same name, Segovia's livelihood relies on the exploitation of its livestock, forests, and agricultural resources, in addition to the art of good eating. Motorists making the journey from Madrid (about 90 km, or 56 miles) are recommended to take Autovía A-6, crossing the Sistema Central by the Guadarrama tunnel, and then turn right onto the N-603 and drive straight on to the city, or alternatively take the AP-61 toll motorway. Its proximity to high mountains makes Segovia a place with a cold but invigorating climate. Freezing temperatures are common during the lengthy winter season. This, in turn, favors the exuberance of nature, proliferation of forests, streams, and landscapes of great beauty. Hotels are perfectly adapted to the climatic conditions and are intent on making the visitor's stay as comfortable as possible. Segovia has been given the nickname of the Stone Ship. This is because the profile of the Alcázar castle perched on the rocks resembles the prow of a ship while the Cathedral tower serves as the mast. Lyricism aside, Segovia is one of the richest cities in Spain for monuments, as well as historical and cultural traditions. The UNESCO acknowledged this in 1985 by declaring it a World Heritage City.
The Cathedral with the Sierra de Guadarrama in the background
HISTORICAL BACKGROUND Originally a series of villages, it was conquered by the Romans in the first century and became a military emporium. At the fall of the Roman Empire, peoples from the North of Europe settled here until they were overpowered by the Arabs. While under Arab domination, Segovia became capital of various Moorish kingdoms. In 1088, Segovia was conquered by Alfonso VI, king of Castile, initiating a period of political importance and became the residence of the court of the Trastámara dynasty, seat of a bishop, and a prosperous trading center with northern Europe due to its wealth of livestock and burgeoning textile industry. During this period, the majority of the numerous Romanesque monuments were built, making Segovia the city center with the largest number of Romanesque constructions in all of Europe.
In the 15th century, Segovia rose to prominence with the Trastámaras, becoming the center of the royal court. In 1474, and as the culminating point of this era, Isabella the Catholic was proclaimed queen of the kingdom of Castile in the Church of San Miguel. When Charles V came to the throne with his new imperial government, Segovia refused to admit the loss of its preeminence and headed the uprising known as the Revolt of the Comuneros and was defeated in 1521. The city was then relegated to a secondary role politically but maintained its economic power centered around textile manufacturing, reaching its peak during the 16th century. In the 17th century, the textile industry collapsed, destroying with it much of the city's activity. In the 18th century, it regained some of its splendor with the Bourbon monarchs, primarily with the building of the stately palaces at La Granja and Riofrío.
Church of San Clemente
pedestrian avenue of Fernández Ladreda. It was built in the 12th century and is considered by many to be the best example of Segovian Romanesque. The tower, Mozarab in style and earlier than the rest of the building, the porch, and the four apses are of special interest. Proceeding along Avenida de Fernández Ladreda, to the right we encounter the Church of San Clemente (2), also Romanesque with a notable apse with blind arches.
Itineraries in the city Professional tourist guides may be engaged by contacting the Tourist Offices in the city. As a general rule, museums and art galleries are open to the public from Tuesday to Saturday in the morning and afternoon, on Sundays and Public Holidays during the morning only, and are closed on Mondays. For fuller information kindly contact your nearest Tourist Information Office.
A little further along, we come to the Plaza del Azoguejo. Here the Roman Aqueduct (3) rises in all its splendor to a height of 29 meters (95 ft.) This remarkable work of engineering, the largest and best preserved from the Roman Empire, dates from the first century and transported
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water from more than fifteen kilometers away. Its huge blocks of granite are joined by an extraordinary opposition of forces without any kind of mortar. Today it is the city's landmark and a work of exceptional beauty.
Further along, at the beginning of the Aqueduct, we turn to the right next to the walls of the convent of Santa Rita, and we take Calle de San Antonio which leads us to the Monastery of San Antonio el Real (5). The monastery, former summer residence of king Enrique IV, has the best Mudejar coffered ceiling in Segovia, some Flemish paintings from the 15th century, furniture, books, clothing and sculpture from the period.
Following the Aqueduct on leaving the walled sector, we can detour on the street called Calle Ochoa Ondátegui until reaching Plaza de San Justo where we find the Church of San Justo (4). A somber 12th century church, it was built in honor of the figure of Christ known as Cristo de los Gascones and houses exceptional Romanesque frescos in the interior. We take Calle de Ruiz de Alda returning towards the Aqueduct; upon arriving at
Aqueduct
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Segovia, a World Heritage City Starting at the Plaza Azoguejo, we take the street of Calle Cervantes, the first stretch of what Segovians call "Calle Real" or Royal Street, a pedestrian walk that includes Calle Cervantes, Calle Juan Bravo, Plaza del Corpus, and Calle de Isabel la Católica, ending at the Plaza Mayor.
Casa de los Picos
Count Alpuente decorated with interesting plaster pargetting or "esgrafiado" work (obtained by raking over smooth plaster to create a design in relief) on the facade and Flamboyant Gothic windows. On a nearby street is the old Alhóndiga (7), a public granary in the Late Gothic style now used as the Municipal Archives and exhibit hall.
The first sight that takes visitors by surprise is the Casa de los Picos (6), a 15th century mansion noted for its remarkable facade studded with pointed granite pyramids, presently used as the School of Applied Arts and Artistic Trades. Further along to the left, we encounter the palace of
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Returning to the Calle Real, along the stretch called Calle Juan Bravo, to the left we see the Casa del Siglo XV, Late Gothic in style and today a shop and exhibit hall. Right away we reach one of the loveliest spots in the city, the Plaza de Medina del Campo.
Christi (10), a former Jewish synagogue transformed into a church in 1410. Continuing along Calle de Isabel la Católica, we reach the Plaza Mayor (Main Square), vital center of the walled sector of the city. To the left of the porticoed plaza stands the imposing Cathedral (11). Its construction was initiated in 1525 under the direction of Juan Gil de Hontañón in the Late Gothic style, taking advantage of the remains of the Old Cathedral which was erected in front of the Alcázar castle and destroyed by fire during the Revolt of the Comuneros.
In this square, we find the statue of Juan Bravo, celebrated "comunero" in the revolt against Charles V, which occupies the center of the open space, the Church of San Martín (8), the Torreón de los Lozoya (9), and other monumental buildings. San Martín is a magnificent Romanesque church with architectural elements added pertaining to different styles; Mozarab remains in the interior, a Romanesque–Mudejar tower with a Baroque spire, splendid porches, and a parish museum. The Torreón (large fortified tower) is a 14th century defensive construction where exhibits are held throughout the year.
In the Cathedral, various parts rescued from the Old Cathedral can be found, including a Hispano–Flemish Gothic cloister by Juan Guas, magnificent choir stalls, and the main
After leaving the Church of San Martín, to the right we come upon the former Royal Jail, a medieval building which, after much restoration, houses a public library. Shortly, we arrive at the Plaza del Corpus where we find the Convent of Corpus
6
facade. From the structure erected in the 16th century, of particular interest are the San Frutos doorway facing the Plaza Mayor, the free–standing tower, originally 100 meters high and today with 12 less, the apse with its buttresses and pinnacles, the Baroque high altarpiece by Sabatini, the neoclassical retrochoir by Ventura Rodríguez, and numerous smaller chapels housing works by Pereira, Guas, Juan de Juni, Gregorio Hernández and others.
Also in the Plaza Mayor, we have the Ayuntamiento (Town Hall), dating from 1610, and the Juan Bravo Theater. Very close to the square, on Calle Infanta Isabel, is the Church of San Miguel (12), today mainly Gothic in style, but with some Romanesque elements from the primitive temple where Isabella the Catholic was crowned Queen of Castile, such as the sober sculptures of the doorway. We continue our tour and take Calle de Marqués de Arco. At the beginning of the street, we find the Casa del Marqués del Arco, dating from the second half of the 15th century. Shortly, we reach the Plaza de la Merced, laid out with gardens, where the Church of San Andrés (13) is found. It is Romanesque in style and dates from the 12th century and has a brick tower with a slate spire.
The Cathedral Museum houses Hispano–Flemish panels and 16th century paintings, Romanesque and Gothic sculpture, silver and gold works, tapestries, and a collection of incunabula, including the Synod of Aguilafuerte, the first non–literary book printed in Spain.
The last stretch of our walk before arriving at the Alcázar castle is part of the Canonjías quarter, called this because of the large number of canons of the church that lived here at one time. It is the best assembly of civil Romanesque architecture in all of Europe. When it was built, it was separated from the rest of the city by walls and gates but only
Cathedral
7
one remains, La Claustra, situated on the neighboring street of Calle Velarde. At the end of the Calle Daoiz, continuation of Marqués del Arco, we come to the Alcázar (14), preceded by the gardens of Queen Victoria Eugenia, a green oasis where the Old Cathedral once stood. To the left, we find the Casa de la Química, in which Louis Proust formulated his famous laws. The majestic fortress is strategically positioned at the confluence of the Eresma and Clamores rivers, and at first glance, we focus on the impressive tower of Juan II, 80 meters (260 feet) high with 12 turrets on the upper part, the tower of Alfonso X the Wise to the north, and the spectacular defensive moat. In the interior, we discover the courtyards called Patio de Armas and Patio del Reloj; the Hall of Kings for a frieze
Alcázar
featuring different monarchs, the Throne Room, Hall of the Arched Windows, and the Chimney Room, to cite a few. We can also visit the rooms dedicated to the Royal Artillery Academy, and others where diverse military objects are exhibited. We now take the Ronda Don Juan II until a small street to our right, almost a little square, takes us to the Casa del Sol (15). The Provincial Museum of Segovia houses archeological remains, glass from La Granja, painting, sculpture, etc. Continuing on Ronda Don Juan II, we pass beneath the Puerta de San Andrés, a gateway that leads to the former Jewish quarter of Segovia. Staying close to the walls, we proceed along Calle Leopoldo Moreno until we reach Paseo del Salón; a pleasant garden and a nice place to rest.
Los Caballeros Quarter Starting again at the Aqueduct, we now take Calle de San Juan, admiring the walls. Just before entering the walled sector, we see to the left the 15th century Casa de las Cadenas (16). The Plaza del Conde Cheste is a lovely square enclosed by splendid old homes and mansions of noble families, including the Palaces of La Floresta, Count Cheste, and Uceda–Peralta.
Casa de las Cadenas
Calle de San Sebastián until we reach the Church of San Sebastián (18), which has a Romanesque exterior and Baroque interior. Returning to the Plaza once again, this time we take the Calle de San Agustín.
To the right, on Calle Luis Felipe Peñalosa, we come to the garden where the Church of San Juan de los Caballeros (17) was built in the Romanesque style with profusely decorated areas. It now houses the Zuloaga Museum.
Afterwards, we proceed on Calle de San Nicolás, and at once to the right, we see the 12th century Romanesque Church of San Nicolás (19), now a Municipal Theater Workshop.
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houses religious painting and sculpture from different periods.
Continuing on Calle San Quirce, passing by the Convent of Las Oblatas, we come to a square and encounter the Church of San Quirce (20), also built in the Romanesque style during the 12th century, presently the meeting place of the Academy of History and Art of San Quirce, as well as the convent of the Madres Dominicas, where ancient carvings are reproduced.
We take Calle de Valdeláguila first and then the street of Trinidad to reach the Torre de Hercules (23), a good example of medieval military architecture from the 13th century. We also find the Church of La Trinidad (24), one of the best preserved Romanesque churches. Deserving special mention in the interior is the "Santa Faz" (Holy Face) by the artist, Ambrosius Benson, as well as the chapel with a lovely doorway by Juan Guas.
We continue on Travesía de los Capuchinos, arriving at the Plaza de San Esteban to admire the Church of San Esteban (21) and the Palacio Episcopal (22). The church is Late Romanesque in style from the 13th century and has one of the highest and best Romanesque towers in all of Spain, in addition to a magnificent porch. The palace, on the other hand, is a Plateresque building from the 16th century and
Turning afterwards to the right, we come to Plaza del Doctor Laguna where we encounter Torreón de Arias Dávila (25), a tower decorated with Islamic geometric designs, dating from the 15th century.
Santa Faz. Church of La Trinidad
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Santa Cruz la Real (26), a Gothic–Isabelline structure boasting an interesting doorway by Juan Guas. Nearby, we find the Cave of Santo Domingo de Guzmán, a secluded and mysterious spot.
Scenic City Route This itinerary goes outside the city center and is perfect for a nice long walk. Starting at the Aqueduct, we take the street called Vía Roma until we turn left at Calle Santa Catalina and soon arrive at the Romanesque Church of San Lorenzo with its Mudejar tower, situated on a medieval–looking square.
Departing towards the right, we take the stairs that go down to the bridge of the Alameda del Parral. Veering towards the left, we reach the Monastery of El Parral (27), a Flamboyant Gothic construction started in 1447 and still unfinished, as can be observed on the main facade. Juan Guas participated in its design, and the exceptional high altarpiece, the alabaster tombs of the Marquis of Villena, and cloisters of the monastery are all worth visiting.
We then take Calle Puente de San Lorenzo to continue afterwards on Calle de San Vicente and come to the Convent of San Vicente, the oldest one in the city. In the year 140, a temple of Jupiter was located on this site, which was later destroyed by fire. In the year 919, a church was built honoring Saint Vincent.
Taking the Calle de la Moneda and crossing the bridge, we find to the right the building that was once the Casa de la Moneda (old Mint) by Juan de Herrera.
Retracing our steps to the Plaza de San Lorenzo, we then take Calle de Cardenal Zúñiga to get to the Monastery of
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Taking the Paseo del Santo Domingo again, we turn to the right, among groves of trees and at the foot of the walls, we can view the Puerta de Santiago gate and gardens of the Alcázar until reaching the small parish Church of San Marcos, one of the oldest in the city. Turning to the right, we find the Church of La Vera Cruz (28), one the most original churches in Spain. Its unusual polygonal ground plan has twelve sides. Late Romanesque from the 13th century, the church was founded by the Templars.
a privileged place for admiring the partial silhouette of the Alcázar castle and the walls of the city, where the Convent of the Padres Carmelitas Descalzos (29) stands. The church and the lavish tomb of St. John of the Cross can be admired. Also in the Alameda woods, we have the Sanctuary of
Using the Church of San Marcos as a reference point, to the right the Alameda woods of La Fuencisla begin,
Monastery of El Parral
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Other places of interest Antonio Machado House–Museum (31) recreates the atmosphere of the period surrounding the famous poet and displays personal objects and other memorabilia.
Church of La Vera Cruz
In the Plaza de Bellas Artes, we find the Esteban Vicente Museum of Contemporary Art (32), former palace of Enrique IV, which presently houses an extraordinary collection of works by Esteban Vicente (1903), the only Spanish member of the New York School of abstract expressionism.
La Fuencisla (30), patroness of Segovia; the statue of the Virgin is displayed in the Baroque high altar of the Sanctuary, begun in the 16th century. Going up the Cuesta de los Hoyos, we enjoy a superb view of the Alcázar, which reminds us of the prow of a ship. Within the walls, we can admire some notable buildings, including the Casa de la Química within the gardens of the Alcázar; Casa del Sol, a defensive house constructed using three portions of the walls; Puerta de San Andrés, a gate restored in the 16th century and flanked by two towers, one round and the other square, entrance to the Jewish quarter, also called Socorro Arch because of the statue of the Virgin of the same name.
There are many other sights to visit in Segovia that have not been mentioned in the itineraries, such as the Church of El Salvador, Church of San Lorenzo, the numerous streets within the walled sector, as well as the surrounding verdant areas. Antonio Machado House-Museum
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Itineraries throughout the province Tourist guides are available during the summer months in the following cities: Ayllón, Coca, Cuéllar, Pedraza, Santa María la Real de Nieva, Sepúlveda, and La Granja de San Ildefonso.
The Royal Route Eleven kilometers from Segovia on the N–601, in an unparalleled setting at the foot of the mountains, is the elegant Palacio de La Granja de San Ildefonso. This grandiose palace was begun in 1721 with the participation of various architects, including Teodoro Ardemans and Juan Bautista Sachetti, making a beautiful blend of Spanish Barroque and French neoclassical styles with subtle Italian touches. Ornate furnishings and antiques from the period, as well as 17th century
Flemish painting, and an excellent collection of tapestries are displayed. The palace is surrounded by spectacular formal gardens with numerous species of plants and is adorned with statues and 26 monumental fountains in an elaborate display of light and color, perhaps the most delightful part of the complex. Nearby, we encounter the Royal Glass Factory of La Granja, an industrial building dating from the 18th century with a permanent exhibit and
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Estate grounds at the Palace of Riofrío
other temporary ones devoted to the delicate art of glass–making. Fifteen kilometers from La Granja, we come upon Valsaín, where we recommend a visit to the magnificent forests with a Nature Center and recreational areas. Later we pass Revenga before coming to the Palacio de Riofrío. This regal country mansion, a square construction measuring 84 meters (275 feet) on each side, is surrounded by an extensive
Palacio de La Granja de San Ildefonso
holm oak grove of 700 hectares (1700 acres) abounding in wildlife. Italianate in appearance, the building houses works by Ribera, Houasse, Pereda and other artists, and part of it is used as a Hunting Museum, exhibiting armaments from the past three centuries, trophies, and paintings by Velázquez, Rubens and others. After visiting the retreats of La Granja and Riofrío, we proceed on the N–603 for 30 kilometers until we come to San Rafael and El Espinar, near the Hermitage of Cristo del Caloco. The two towns are located in the heart of the mountains. After taking the Autovía N–VI for 21 kilometers, we come to Villacastín, where we can admire its huge church started in 1529 by the Friar Antonio de Villacastín and still unfinished, with a beautiful interior and works by various artists.
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The Mudejar Route The word Mudejar refers to the Muslims who remained in Castile after the Reconquest and to their art, characterized by Islamic influence. Taking the C–605 road northwest for thirty kilometers, we come to Santa María la Real de Nieva, a town built around the monastery finished in the 15th century. A treasure of medieval Castilian art, the church and the cloister, with its profusely decorated capitals, are noteworthy. A total of 17 kilometers away is Coca, the town where the famous Roman emperor Theodosius the Great was born. Especially worth visiting in Coca are the remains of the old walls and Arch of La Villa, the Church of Santa María la Mayor with the alabaster tomb of the Fonseca family and, in particular, the splendid Mudejar castle with its richly decorated walls distributed around a large Renaissance courtyard, one of the most famous and best preserved castles in the whole of Spain.
Twenty–seven kilometers to the north, passing Chañe and Arroyo de Cuéllar, we reach Cuéllar, the second largest city in the province with a population of 10,000. Of interest are the double walls and gates, the Gothic castle–palace with its Mudejar doorway and large Renaissance courtyard, the sanctuary of Nuestra Señora del Henar, and numerous Romanesque churches with tall towers and Mudejar apses, including the Churches of San Miguel, San Esteban, San Andrés and San Martín.
The Castle. Coca
Nearby, we find Madriguera and El Muyo, villages brimming with color and contrasts.
The Mountain Villages Route Leaving Segovia on the N–110, twenty kilometers away we encounter Sotosalbos, a village with an exceptional Romanesque church. A total of 15 kilometers further, having turned off at Matabuena, we arrive at Pedraza. Here we must mention the Plaza Mayor, the medieval jail, the Church of San Juan, and the castle which is also a museum for the painter Zuloaga.
Eighteen kilometers north of Riaza is Ayllón, but before stopping here, we should pause a short while on the N–110 in Santa María de Riaza to visit the Romanesque church. In Ayllón, our attention focuses on the Isabelline Palace of Juan de Contreras, and Renaissance Church of Santa María la Mayor. Furthermore, the Palace of Bishop Vellosillo has been converted into a Museum of Contemporary Art.
Our next stop 60 kilometers northeast is Riaza, where we suggest a walk though this lovely Castilian village to appreciate the typical architecture, in addition to the Palace of Los Vélez de Guevara, Church of Virgen del Manto. Near Riaza, we find the beech grove of La Pedrosa, a lovely scenic spot, as well as La Pinilla ski resort.
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The Castle Route Carbonero el Mayor is located 26 kilometers north of Segovia on the N–601 road. Here we can view the impressive interior of the Church of San Juan Bautista built at the beginning of the 16th century, along with the Plaza Mayor and Palacio de los Avriales. Thirteen kilometers later, after having turned to the right in Navalmanzano, we reach Fuentepelayo. In this town, we have the Church of Santa María la Mayor with its lovely Gothic interior, a Romanesque apse and tower. The facade belongs to the Old Cathedral of Segovia and was brought here after a fire destroyed most of the building. Some five kilometers further, we find Aguilafuente, a town rich in archeological remains.
Twelve kilometers southeast takes us to Turégano and requires a stop at the castle, which disguises a lovely 12th century Romanesque church, reforming pre–existing Roman and Arab structures. After Turégano, we proceed on the C–603 north until we come to the industrious town of Cantalejo. We then take a local road and reach Sepúlveda, after having driven about 30 kilometers. Here we find the splendid Romanesque church of
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the Hermitage of San Frutos (patron saint of Segovia), and the ruins of the Monastery of Nuestra Señora de la Hoz. Near Sepúlveda, we find Castilnovo castle, a Mudejar fortress built in the 14th century. Beech forest of La Pedrosa. Riofrío
El Salvador, precursor of this style erected in 1093. We can also admire the 12th century sanctuary of Santa María de la Peña, some of the old gates, the castle, Plaza Mayor, and other churches.
Other places of interest Some scenic nature spots that should not be overlooked include the Cantalejo lagoons, the Riaza river canyon and its reserve of birds of prey, and the Enebralejos cave. Other picturesque towns not on the itinerary are Martín Muñoz de las Posadas, Paradinas, Prádena, Nava de la Asunción, Fuentidueña and Sacramenia.
The Romanesque Church of Santiago in Sepúlveda has been recently renovated to house the interesting Environmental Center of Las Hoces of Duratón River Nature Park, not very far from the town. It is a reserve for vultures where we also find
Part of the Riaza river canyon
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Leon, Agriculture, Livestock and Mountain Services (Delegación Territorial de la Junta de Castilla y León, Servicio de Agricultura, Ganadería y Montes). Special mention must be given to snow sports. La Pinilla ski resort, 70 kilometers from Segovia, meets all the demands of the skiing enthusiast. (Winter resorts pertaining to the Community of Madrid are not very far.)
Entertainment and events It is advisable to consult the local newspapers for cultural events and other activities scheduled during the time of your visit. We would also like to point out the Juan Bravo Theater, built in 1918, as a center of importance. Segovia hosts various international festivals, including the International Puppet Festival "Titirimundi", the Folk Festival of Segovia, La Esteva Folklore Festival, and Music Festival. All of them take place between the months of May and September. For more information, contact the Foundation Don Juan de Borbón. Juan Bravo, 7 10.
Cuisine and handicrafts Segovian cooking gives rise to the leading industry in the province with its numerous restaurants, especially those with typical brick roasting ovens. The key to their success is the excellent quality of the products used and the expert hands of the master chefs who have made the region a mandatory gathering place for discriminating palates.
The best areas to visit after nightfall are found in the vicinity of the Plaza Mayor, Plaza del Azoguejo and the neighboring streets.For sports enthusiasts, the province offers countless possibilities to practice all types of sports related to nature, including hiking, horseback riding, hunting or fishing. For more information on hunting or livestock – reserves, licenses, species, etc., contact the Delegation for Castile and
Typical oven
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Typical dishes include "judiones de la Granja" (a stew of oversize broad white beans), "sopa castellana" (soup with eggs, bread and garlic), roast suckling pig, roast lamb, "caldereta" (stewed lamb), veal, trout, tench, partridge, and quail. The abundant forests are ideal for all kinds of mushrooms to flourish. Sweets are represented by "ponche segoviano" (a liqueur–dipped, custard–filled cake frosted with marzipan). There are two wines produced in the region: Ribera de Duero with young clarets and exceptional red wines, and Rueda with magnificent white wines.
Older and more typical ones featuring giants and large–headed figures include San Frutos, patron saint of the city, the 25th of October, together with the customary celebrations of Holy Week. The Festival of Santa Águeda takes place around the 5th of February in the entire province, particularly in the town of Zamarramala. During this festival, the married women take over the community and ridicule, jokingly of course, the men of the town. There are some variations depending on each town, but most of the townspeople dress up in traditional costumes for the event.
Handicrafts are skillfully produced by over a hundred workshops in the province and include textiles, with a tradition going back to the Middle Ages, glass–making, which was promoted by royalty, ceramics, metallurgy, leatherwork, woodworking and flint.
In Cuéllar, the last week of August, the oldest running of the bulls in Spain is held, and in El Espinar, the second Saturday of September, the "Romería" (pilgrimage) of Cristo del Caloco journeys from the town to the nearby hermitage of the same name.
Popular festivals
Festival of Santa Águeda. Zamarramala
In the capital city of Segovia, the festivals of San Juan and San Pedro, between the 23rd and 29th of June, deserve special mention. 21
GENERAL INFORMATION International dialing code % 34 TOURIST INFORMATION TURESPAÑA www.tourspain.es Tourist Information of Castile and León % 902 203 030 www.turismocastillayleon.com
Segovia Carretera de Valladolid 40003 Segovia % 921 443 737 ) 921 437 362
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TOURIST OFFICES Segovia Plaza Mayor, 10 % 921 460 334 ) 921 460 330 Plaza del Azoguejo, 1 % 921 462 906 ) 921 460 492 Cuéllar Plaza del Castillo % 921 142 203 Sepúlveda Plaza del Trigo, 1 % 921 540 237 Pedraza Real, 3 % 921 508 666 ) 921 509 944
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Itineraries throughout the province The Royal Route The Mudejar Route The Mountain Villages Route The Castle Route Other Places of Interest
29
CAM
Itineraries in the city 3 Outside the Walls 3 Segovia, World Heritage City 5 Los Caballeros Quarter 9 Scenic City Route 11 Other Places of Interest 13
RR
1
CL-300
30 CA
Introduction
ZAMARRAMALA 3 km
PALENCIA 39 Km
TORDESILLAS 25 Km
Castronuevo de Esgueva
Cistérniga
Laguna de Duero Viana de Cega
Pesquera de Duero
Olivares de Duero
VALLADOLID A-62
Villafuerte
CastrilloTejeriego
Olmos de Esgueva
B
N-122
Quintanilla de Onésimo
Peñafiel
Tudela de Duero
V A L L A D O L I D
Boecillo
Montemayor de Pililla
Aldeamayor de San Martín
Fompedraza
Cogeces del Monte
Sac
Río
MEDINA DEL CAMPO 15 Km
Río
Portillo Camporredondo Campaspero Membibre Fu San Miguel de la Hoz del Arroyo Fuentidueña Cogeces Matapozuelos Mojados San Cristóbal de Íscar Embalse de de Cuéllar Olombrada las Vencías Megeces Cuéllar Perosillo Vallelado Fuentepiñel R ío Frumales Alcazarén Íscar Adrados Fuente Remondo Pedrajas de Torrecilla Chañe Hontalbilla de Fuen San Esteban del Pinar Arroyo Ce ga de Cuéllar Villaverde Sanchonuño Fuenterre de Íscar Olmedo Samboal Gomezserracín Fuente el Lastras de Cuéllar Olmo de Íscar N-601 Pinarejos Zarzuela del Pinar Cabe Fuente de Aguilafuente Coca Mudrián San Martín Santa Cruz Veganzone Navalmanzano Navas Fuentepelayo Ataquines Santiuste de de Oro Escalona San Juan Bautista Tur Aldea Real Río del Prado Bernardos Carbonero Nava de el Mayor Mozoncillo A-6 la Asunción Nieva
Hoyuelos
Adaja
Adanero
Marazuela
Jemenuño
Abades
Bercial
SALAMANCA 77 Km
Muñopedro Labajos Velayos
AP-6
Á V I L A Mingorría
N-501
Fuentemilanos Zarzuela del Monte
N-VI
N-403
Villacastín
Navas de San Antonio
El Espinar
Voltoya
PLASENCIA 142 Km
N-110 Otero de Herreros
N-110 AP-51
ÁVILA
T
Valdihuela
I S
10
20
A M
E
Si
r er
a
E de
Navacerrada 1860
N
Cercedilla Nav
San Rafael
Guadarram San Lorenzo de El Escorial El Escorial
Galapagar
30 Km
CARTOGRAFÍA: GCAR, S.L. Cardenal Silíceo, 35 Tel. 914 167 341 - 28002 MADRID - AÑO 2005 [email protected]
Robledo de Chavela El Hoyo de Pinares Cebreros
TOLEDO 110 Km
San Ildefo
C
Navalperal de Pinares
N-403 0
SEGOVIA
Riofrío Valsaín AP-61 Revenga N-603
S
1531
N
N-110
Torrecaba
Valverde del Majano
Marugán Hernansancho
Sotosal
Asenjo
Garcillán
Sangarcía
Río
Sanchidrián
P de
Adrada de Pirón
Valseca Hontanares de Eresma
Paradinas
Martín Muñoz de las Posadas
Cantimpalos Torreiglesias sma
Codorniz
Montuenga
Tiñosillos
San Pedro
Santa María la Real de Nieva
Ere
San Cristóbal de la Vega
Arévalo
Valdemorillo Majada
BURGOS 70 Km Zazuar
Villalba de Duero
Roa
Alcubilla de Peñaranda Avellaneda de Duero
Aranda de Duero
B U R G O S
N-122
Montejo de la Vega de la Serrezuela
Moradillo de Roa
S O R I A
Río
San Esteban Rí o Pardilla de Gormaz Fuentenebro Honrubia Embalse Fuentecambrón Sacramenia Maderuelo de Linares Valtiendas de la Cuesta del Arroyo Aldeanueva de Fuentesoto Languilla la Serrezuela Moral de Riaz a N-110 dueña Hornuez 1313 Castro de A-1 Rubio balse de Ayllón Fuentidueña Vencías Fresno de Liceras Castroserracín la Fuente ntepiñel Santa María de Riaza Fresno de Urueñas Montejo Cantespino Francos Embalse de de Tiermes Fuente el Olmo Aldeonte Burgomillodo de Fuentidueña Boceguillas Barbolla Sepúlveda Fuenterrebollo Castillejo Alquité de Mesleón Madriguera PARQUE NATURAL DE LAS Cantalejo HOCES DEL RÍO DURATÓN Riaza Villacadima Duruelo Cabezuela Cerezo de Arriba Ríofrio te Aldealcorvo Villafranca de Riaza ganzones Cerezo de Abajo Villarejo Cantalojas Lobo La Matilla Ventosilla LA PINILLA Turégano Rebollo 2273 Prádena Somosierra Du
ra
tó
n
Caballar s
Pedraza Torre Val de San Pedro
Pelayos del Arroyo
orrecaballeros
R
n Ildefonso
E
n
C a
de
G
N
u
ad
a
rr
errada 60
Colmenar de la Sierra
Navafría 1760
Embalse de Riosequillo
Buitrago del Lozoya Embalse de El Atazar
Embalse Rascafría de Pinilla
Navacerrada
Puebla de Beleña
Torrelaguna
Soto del Real San Agustín de Guadalix
Colmenar Viejo Hoyo de Manzanares Embalse de El Pardo
M-607
A-1
Torrelodones
San Sebastián de los Reyes
Algete M-106
El Pardo
Las Rozas de Madrid Majadahonda M-50
Alcobendas M-40
MADRID
Humanes
Viñuelas Toll Road
El Molar
Tres Cantos
Collado Villalba
El Cubillo de Uceda
N-320
A-2
Motorway National Highway Primary Regional Road Secondary Regional Road Local Road Railroad Parador Nature Park Golf course Ski Resort Marina Camp grounds World Heritage Site
ZARAGOZA 267 Km
Embalse de Santillana
Tamajón Embalse de Beleña
Canencia Valdemanco La Cabrera
Miraflores de la Sierra
Manzanares el Real
A-6
Embalse de El Vado
Lozoyuela
M A D R I D
NAVACERRADA
ar
Robregordo
A
VALDESQUI
adarrama
GUADALAJARA
Matabuena
a
T
OVIA
Somosierra
L
N-110 Navafría
Sotosalbos
1404
am
D
Langa de Duero SORIA 71 Km
Fuentecén
Miami Tourist Office of Spain 1221 Brickell Avenue Miami, Florida 33131 % 1(305) 358 19 92 ) 1(305) 358 82 23 www.okspain.org e-mail: [email protected] New York Tourist Office of Spain 666 Fifth Avenue 35th floor New York, New York 10103 % 1(212) 265 88 22 ) 1(212) 265 88 64 www.okspain.org e-mail: [email protected]
Spain
Segovia
SINGAPORE. Singapore Spanish Tourist Office 541 Orchard Road. Liat Tower # 09-04. 238881 Singapore % 65 67 37 30 08 ) 65 67 37 31 73 e-mail: [email protected]
Segovia
RUSSIA. Moscow Spanish Tourist Office Tverskaya – 16/2 Building 3 Moscow 103009 % (7095) 935 83 97 ) (7095) 935 83 96 www.tourspain.ru e-mail: [email protected]
Chicago Tourist Office of Spain Water Tower Place, Suite 915 East 845 North Michigan Avenue Chicago, Illinois 60611 % 1(312) 642 19 92 ) 1(312) 642 98 17 www.okspain.org e-mail: [email protected]
Spain
JAPAN. Tokyo Tourist Office of Spain Daini Toranomon Denki Bldg.6F. 3-1-10 Toranomon. Minato-Ku TOKYO-105-0001 % (813) 34 32 61 41 ) (813) 34 32 61 44 www.spaintour.com e-mail: [email protected]
EMBASSIES IN MADRID Canada Núñez de Balboa, 35 % 914 233 250 ) 914 233 251 Great Britain Fernando El Santo, 16 % 913 190 200 ) 913 081 033 Japan. Serrano, 109 % 915 907 600 ) 915 901 321 Russia. Velázquez, 155 % 915 622 264 ) 915 629 712 United States of America Serrano, 75 % 915 872 200 ) 915 872 303
EUROPEAN COMMUNITY European Regional Development Fund
I WORLD HERITAGE CITY
C O N T E N T S
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IÓN ITUC AP-61
RIOFRÍO 12 km SAN RAFAEL 33 km SAN RAFAEL 33 km
es
Castillo
Larga
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Batan
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Other places of interest 31. Antonio Machado House-Museum 32. Esteban Vicente Museum of Contemporary Art
Ram
Jardín Hospital Botánico Parador S Morrillo e ParkingAntoniovero O PoliceMachado choa Bus Station
Mo
el
ld
ge
alle
Mon
Cementerio Municipal
da
ar
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Academia de Artillería
s
los
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La
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a
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Plaza del Seminario Seminario Conciliar segui Ga n d a Obispo
RO
illos
CL-601 N-110
17 Plaza de Colmenares Palacio de la Diputación
M
de
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Calle
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lc
Ma
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5 CL-601
SAN ILDEFONSO 11 km MADRID 87 km
CUÉLLAR 61 km SORIA 190 km
isp
ZM
ti-S
Ob
la Monastery of Santa Cruz la Real Jardines San Roque Roble MonasteryAntofigEl ua Parral Carrete del ra d e Calle Church of La Vera Cruz Ma dro Plaza Convent of the Padres Carmelitas na Santa CONVENTIONAL SIGNS ores Curtid Eulalia Descalzos Tourist Information Office l 30. Sanctuary of La Fuencisla Post Officeón y Caja
26. 27. 28. 29.
Carde
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San Facu ndo Sa Plaza Doctor n Laguna Ild Ro efo Plaza drí ns gu o Conde Alpuente ez
Sa
N-110
de
mé jo se on
do cia en lta Lic Pera
Br
le
ÁVILA 65 km
26 Calle
tín us Ag
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9
O
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32
8
G
GU
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25
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In
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Layout: P&L MARÍN
16. Casa de las Cadenas
Plaza La Rubia
12 Is
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Printed in Spain
Itinerary III
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Itinerary IV
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D.L. M. 49989-2005 NIPO: 704-05-161-7
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Photographs: TURESPAÑA Archives
19
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Translation: J. West
Printed by: EGRAF, S. A.
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G n e Church of San Juan de los Caballeros Call Sa Plaza Aurelio e l l 6 Hernández Church of San Sebastián VIA Ca Calle 7 Cervant Plaza de Plaza de la es Church of San Nicolás la ArtillerÍa AVENIDA Plaza de Morería Plaza del Azoguejo 3 Church of San Quirce del Ala Doctor Gila Calle Carmen DA m Bajada del E Calleof San Esteban Teniente Ochoa illo R Church Ca Plaza de 4 Piedad D tas San Justo e l A r l r e L r Ca to c o D de Palacio Episcopal o h e c San Z Call O Plaza nd Hercules Tower DE 2 at Día ÁN eg N s Sanz o ui R Church of La Trinidad rer r E a F B 1 E Torreón de Arias Dávila Ca C
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Text: Tomás Díaz Martínez
Published by: © Turespaña Secretaría de Estado de Turismo y Comercio Ministerio de Industria, Turismo y Comercio
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23
10
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Casa de los Picos e Alhóndiga Church of San Martín Torreón de los Lozoya Convent of Corpus Christi Cathedral Church of San Miguel Church of San Andrés Alcázar Casa del Sol. Provincial Museum of Segovia
O
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Itinerary II 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15.
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Ayuntamiento
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Mediterranean Sea
Church of San Millán Church of San Clemente Aqueduct Church of San Justo Monastery of San Antonio el Real
O
Sa
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1. 2. 3. 4. C5. a
22
Cap
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Madrid
Lisbon
17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25.
Parral
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Itinerary I
Doctor
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Segovia
NT
21
31
11
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Convento de San Vicente
Vi
Muralla Pue r ta
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400 m
San
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300
Alam eda
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15
Cl
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200
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CARTOGRAFÍA: GCAR, S.L. Cardenal Silíceo, 35 Tel. 914 167 341 - 28002 MADRID - AÑO 2005 [email protected] de
Pase o
Plaza de la Reina Sa n J C Victoria Eugenia ua Caalle V n Casa de Pa ela lle de se rde la Quimica o Plaza Jardín Po zu elo
Paris
20
General information
Río
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C-605
ARÉVALO 57 km
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Casa de la Moneda Pa da e se Calle de la Mon o S an J uan d PA S e la C EO ruz
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London
Marqu
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14
14 14 16
Entertainment and events
ET
United Kingdom
Dublin
SEGOVIA
28
SAN
Ireland
N
de
ra
INO
Itineraries throughout the province The Royal Route The Mudejar Route The Mountain Villages Route The Castle Route Other Places of Interest
29
CAM
Itineraries in the city 3 Outside the Walls 3 Segovia, World Heritage City 5 Los Caballeros Quarter 9 Scenic City Route 11 Other Places of Interest 13
RR
1
CL-300
30 CA
Introduction
ZAMARRAMALA 3 km
INTRODUCTION
S
egovia is a beautiful city standing on a rocky outcrop between the Eresma and Clamores rivers one thousand meters (3,300 feet) above sea level and twelve kilometers (7 miles) from the Sierra de Guadarrama. Capital of the province of the same name, Segovia's livelihood relies on the exploitation of its livestock, forests, and agricultural resources, in addition to the art of good eating. Motorists making the journey from Madrid (about 90 km, or 56 miles) are recommended to take Autovía A-6, crossing the Sistema Central by the Guadarrama tunnel, and then turn right onto the N-603 and drive straight on to the city, or alternatively take the AP-61 toll motorway. Its proximity to high mountains makes Segovia a place with a cold but invigorating climate. Freezing temperatures are common during the lengthy winter season. This, in turn, favors the exuberance of nature, proliferation of forests, streams, and landscapes of great beauty. Hotels are perfectly adapted to the climatic conditions and are intent on making the visitor's stay as comfortable as possible. Segovia has been given the nickname of the Stone Ship. This is because the profile of the Alcázar castle perched on the rocks resembles the prow of a ship while the Cathedral tower serves as the mast. Lyricism aside, Segovia is one of the richest cities in Spain for monuments, as well as historical and cultural traditions. The UNESCO acknowledged this in 1985 by declaring it a World Heritage City.
The Cathedral with the Sierra de Guadarrama in the background
HISTORICAL BACKGROUND Originally a series of villages, it was conquered by the Romans in the first century and became a military emporium. At the fall of the Roman Empire, peoples from the North of Europe settled here until they were overpowered by the Arabs. While under Arab domination, Segovia became capital of various Moorish kingdoms. In 1088, Segovia was conquered by Alfonso VI, king of Castile, initiating a period of political importance and became the residence of the court of the Trastámara dynasty, seat of a bishop, and a prosperous trading center with northern Europe due to its wealth of livestock and burgeoning textile industry. During this period, the majority of the numerous Romanesque monuments were built, making Segovia the city center with the largest number of Romanesque constructions in all of Europe.
In the 15th century, Segovia rose to prominence with the Trastámaras, becoming the center of the royal court. In 1474, and as the culminating point of this era, Isabella the Catholic was proclaimed queen of the kingdom of Castile in the Church of San Miguel. When Charles V came to the throne with his new imperial government, Segovia refused to admit the loss of its preeminence and headed the uprising known as the Revolt of the Comuneros and was defeated in 1521. The city was then relegated to a secondary role politically but maintained its economic power centered around textile manufacturing, reaching its peak during the 16th century. In the 17th century, the textile industry collapsed, destroying with it much of the city's activity. In the 18th century, it regained some of its splendor with the Bourbon monarchs, primarily with the building of the stately palaces at La Granja and Riofrío.
Church of San Clemente
pedestrian avenue of Fernández Ladreda. It was built in the 12th century and is considered by many to be the best example of Segovian Romanesque. The tower, Mozarab in style and earlier than the rest of the building, the porch, and the four apses are of special interest. Proceeding along Avenida de Fernández Ladreda, to the right we encounter the Church of San Clemente (2), also Romanesque with a notable apse with blind arches.
Itineraries in the city Professional tourist guides may be engaged by contacting the Tourist Offices in the city. As a general rule, museums and art galleries are open to the public from Tuesday to Saturday in the morning and afternoon, on Sundays and Public Holidays during the morning only, and are closed on Mondays. For fuller information kindly contact your nearest Tourist Information Office.
A little further along, we come to the Plaza del Azoguejo. Here the Roman Aqueduct (3) rises in all its splendor to a height of 29 meters (95 ft.) This remarkable work of engineering, the largest and best preserved from the Roman Empire, dates from the first century and transported
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the Plaza de Díaz Sanz, the perspective makes the Roman construction resemble a gigantic wall. In the same Plaza, we find the Artillery Academy, a former Franciscan convent.
water from more than fifteen kilometers away. Its huge blocks of granite are joined by an extraordinary opposition of forces without any kind of mortar. Today it is the city's landmark and a work of exceptional beauty.
Further along, at the beginning of the Aqueduct, we turn to the right next to the walls of the convent of Santa Rita, and we take Calle de San Antonio which leads us to the Monastery of San Antonio el Real (5). The monastery, former summer residence of king Enrique IV, has the best Mudejar coffered ceiling in Segovia, some Flemish paintings from the 15th century, furniture, books, clothing and sculpture from the period.
Following the Aqueduct on leaving the walled sector, we can detour on the street called Calle Ochoa Ondátegui until reaching Plaza de San Justo where we find the Church of San Justo (4). A somber 12th century church, it was built in honor of the figure of Christ known as Cristo de los Gascones and houses exceptional Romanesque frescos in the interior. We take Calle de Ruiz de Alda returning towards the Aqueduct; upon arriving at
Aqueduct
4
Segovia, a World Heritage City Starting at the Plaza Azoguejo, we take the street of Calle Cervantes, the first stretch of what Segovians call "Calle Real" or Royal Street, a pedestrian walk that includes Calle Cervantes, Calle Juan Bravo, Plaza del Corpus, and Calle de Isabel la Católica, ending at the Plaza Mayor.
Casa de los Picos
Count Alpuente decorated with interesting plaster pargetting or "esgrafiado" work (obtained by raking over smooth plaster to create a design in relief) on the facade and Flamboyant Gothic windows. On a nearby street is the old Alhóndiga (7), a public granary in the Late Gothic style now used as the Municipal Archives and exhibit hall.
The first sight that takes visitors by surprise is the Casa de los Picos (6), a 15th century mansion noted for its remarkable facade studded with pointed granite pyramids, presently used as the School of Applied Arts and Artistic Trades. Further along to the left, we encounter the palace of
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Returning to the Calle Real, along the stretch called Calle Juan Bravo, to the left we see the Casa del Siglo XV, Late Gothic in style and today a shop and exhibit hall. Right away we reach one of the loveliest spots in the city, the Plaza de Medina del Campo.
Christi (10), a former Jewish synagogue transformed into a church in 1410. Continuing along Calle de Isabel la Católica, we reach the Plaza Mayor (Main Square), vital center of the walled sector of the city. To the left of the porticoed plaza stands the imposing Cathedral (11). Its construction was initiated in 1525 under the direction of Juan Gil de Hontañón in the Late Gothic style, taking advantage of the remains of the Old Cathedral which was erected in front of the Alcázar castle and destroyed by fire during the Revolt of the Comuneros.
In this square, we find the statue of Juan Bravo, celebrated "comunero" in the revolt against Charles V, which occupies the center of the open space, the Church of San Martín (8), the Torreón de los Lozoya (9), and other monumental buildings. San Martín is a magnificent Romanesque church with architectural elements added pertaining to different styles; Mozarab remains in the interior, a Romanesque–Mudejar tower with a Baroque spire, splendid porches, and a parish museum. The Torreón (large fortified tower) is a 14th century defensive construction where exhibits are held throughout the year.
In the Cathedral, various parts rescued from the Old Cathedral can be found, including a Hispano–Flemish Gothic cloister by Juan Guas, magnificent choir stalls, and the main
After leaving the Church of San Martín, to the right we come upon the former Royal Jail, a medieval building which, after much restoration, houses a public library. Shortly, we arrive at the Plaza del Corpus where we find the Convent of Corpus
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facade. From the structure erected in the 16th century, of particular interest are the San Frutos doorway facing the Plaza Mayor, the free–standing tower, originally 100 meters high and today with 12 less, the apse with its buttresses and pinnacles, the Baroque high altarpiece by Sabatini, the neoclassical retrochoir by Ventura Rodríguez, and numerous smaller chapels housing works by Pereira, Guas, Juan de Juni, Gregorio Hernández and others.
Also in the Plaza Mayor, we have the Ayuntamiento (Town Hall), dating from 1610, and the Juan Bravo Theater. Very close to the square, on Calle Infanta Isabel, is the Church of San Miguel (12), today mainly Gothic in style, but with some Romanesque elements from the primitive temple where Isabella the Catholic was crowned Queen of Castile, such as the sober sculptures of the doorway. We continue our tour and take Calle de Marqués de Arco. At the beginning of the street, we find the Casa del Marqués del Arco, dating from the second half of the 15th century. Shortly, we reach the Plaza de la Merced, laid out with gardens, where the Church of San Andrés (13) is found. It is Romanesque in style and dates from the 12th century and has a brick tower with a slate spire.
The Cathedral Museum houses Hispano–Flemish panels and 16th century paintings, Romanesque and Gothic sculpture, silver and gold works, tapestries, and a collection of incunabula, including the Synod of Aguilafuerte, the first non–literary book printed in Spain.
The last stretch of our walk before arriving at the Alcázar castle is part of the Canonjías quarter, called this because of the large number of canons of the church that lived here at one time. It is the best assembly of civil Romanesque architecture in all of Europe. When it was built, it was separated from the rest of the city by walls and gates but only
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one remains, La Claustra, situated on the neighboring street of Calle Velarde. At the end of the Calle Daoiz, continuation of Marqués del Arco, we come to the Alcázar (14), preceded by the gardens of Queen Victoria Eugenia, a green oasis where the Old Cathedral once stood. To the left, we find the Casa de la Química, in which Louis Proust formulated his famous laws. The majestic fortress is strategically positioned at the confluence of the Eresma and Clamores rivers, and at first glance, we focus on the impressive tower of Juan II, 80 meters (260 feet) high with 12 turrets on the upper part, the tower of Alfonso X the Wise to the north, and the spectacular defensive moat. In the interior, we discover the courtyards called Patio de Armas and Patio del Reloj; the Hall of Kings for a frieze
Alcázar
featuring different monarchs, the Throne Room, Hall of the Arched Windows, and the Chimney Room, to cite a few. We can also visit the rooms dedicated to the Royal Artillery Academy, and others where diverse military objects are exhibited. We now take the Ronda Don Juan II until a small street to our right, almost a little square, takes us to the Casa del Sol (15). The Provincial Museum of Segovia houses archeological remains, glass from La Granja, painting, sculpture, etc. Continuing on Ronda Don Juan II, we pass beneath the Puerta de San Andrés, a gateway that leads to the former Jewish quarter of Segovia. Staying close to the walls, we proceed along Calle Leopoldo Moreno until we reach Paseo del Salón; a pleasant garden and a nice place to rest.
Los Caballeros Quarter Starting again at the Aqueduct, we now take Calle de San Juan, admiring the walls. Just before entering the walled sector, we see to the left the 15th century Casa de las Cadenas (16). The Plaza del Conde Cheste is a lovely square enclosed by splendid old homes and mansions of noble families, including the Palaces of La Floresta, Count Cheste, and Uceda–Peralta.
Casa de las Cadenas
Calle de San Sebastián until we reach the Church of San Sebastián (18), which has a Romanesque exterior and Baroque interior. Returning to the Plaza once again, this time we take the Calle de San Agustín.
To the right, on Calle Luis Felipe Peñalosa, we come to the garden where the Church of San Juan de los Caballeros (17) was built in the Romanesque style with profusely decorated areas. It now houses the Zuloaga Museum.
Afterwards, we proceed on Calle de San Nicolás, and at once to the right, we see the 12th century Romanesque Church of San Nicolás (19), now a Municipal Theater Workshop.
Returning to the Plaza del Conde Cheste, we take the
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houses religious painting and sculpture from different periods.
Continuing on Calle San Quirce, passing by the Convent of Las Oblatas, we come to a square and encounter the Church of San Quirce (20), also built in the Romanesque style during the 12th century, presently the meeting place of the Academy of History and Art of San Quirce, as well as the convent of the Madres Dominicas, where ancient carvings are reproduced.
We take Calle de Valdeláguila first and then the street of Trinidad to reach the Torre de Hercules (23), a good example of medieval military architecture from the 13th century. We also find the Church of La Trinidad (24), one of the best preserved Romanesque churches. Deserving special mention in the interior is the "Santa Faz" (Holy Face) by the artist, Ambrosius Benson, as well as the chapel with a lovely doorway by Juan Guas.
We continue on Travesía de los Capuchinos, arriving at the Plaza de San Esteban to admire the Church of San Esteban (21) and the Palacio Episcopal (22). The church is Late Romanesque in style from the 13th century and has one of the highest and best Romanesque towers in all of Spain, in addition to a magnificent porch. The palace, on the other hand, is a Plateresque building from the 16th century and
Turning afterwards to the right, we come to Plaza del Doctor Laguna where we encounter Torreón de Arias Dávila (25), a tower decorated with Islamic geometric designs, dating from the 15th century.
Santa Faz. Church of La Trinidad
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Santa Cruz la Real (26), a Gothic–Isabelline structure boasting an interesting doorway by Juan Guas. Nearby, we find the Cave of Santo Domingo de Guzmán, a secluded and mysterious spot.
Scenic City Route This itinerary goes outside the city center and is perfect for a nice long walk. Starting at the Aqueduct, we take the street called Vía Roma until we turn left at Calle Santa Catalina and soon arrive at the Romanesque Church of San Lorenzo with its Mudejar tower, situated on a medieval–looking square.
Departing towards the right, we take the stairs that go down to the bridge of the Alameda del Parral. Veering towards the left, we reach the Monastery of El Parral (27), a Flamboyant Gothic construction started in 1447 and still unfinished, as can be observed on the main facade. Juan Guas participated in its design, and the exceptional high altarpiece, the alabaster tombs of the Marquis of Villena, and cloisters of the monastery are all worth visiting.
We then take Calle Puente de San Lorenzo to continue afterwards on Calle de San Vicente and come to the Convent of San Vicente, the oldest one in the city. In the year 140, a temple of Jupiter was located on this site, which was later destroyed by fire. In the year 919, a church was built honoring Saint Vincent.
Taking the Calle de la Moneda and crossing the bridge, we find to the right the building that was once the Casa de la Moneda (old Mint) by Juan de Herrera.
Retracing our steps to the Plaza de San Lorenzo, we then take Calle de Cardenal Zúñiga to get to the Monastery of
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Taking the Paseo del Santo Domingo again, we turn to the right, among groves of trees and at the foot of the walls, we can view the Puerta de Santiago gate and gardens of the Alcázar until reaching the small parish Church of San Marcos, one of the oldest in the city. Turning to the right, we find the Church of La Vera Cruz (28), one the most original churches in Spain. Its unusual polygonal ground plan has twelve sides. Late Romanesque from the 13th century, the church was founded by the Templars.
a privileged place for admiring the partial silhouette of the Alcázar castle and the walls of the city, where the Convent of the Padres Carmelitas Descalzos (29) stands. The church and the lavish tomb of St. John of the Cross can be admired. Also in the Alameda woods, we have the Sanctuary of
Using the Church of San Marcos as a reference point, to the right the Alameda woods of La Fuencisla begin,
Monastery of El Parral
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Other places of interest Antonio Machado House–Museum (31) recreates the atmosphere of the period surrounding the famous poet and displays personal objects and other memorabilia.
Church of La Vera Cruz
In the Plaza de Bellas Artes, we find the Esteban Vicente Museum of Contemporary Art (32), former palace of Enrique IV, which presently houses an extraordinary collection of works by Esteban Vicente (1903), the only Spanish member of the New York School of abstract expressionism.
La Fuencisla (30), patroness of Segovia; the statue of the Virgin is displayed in the Baroque high altar of the Sanctuary, begun in the 16th century. Going up the Cuesta de los Hoyos, we enjoy a superb view of the Alcázar, which reminds us of the prow of a ship. Within the walls, we can admire some notable buildings, including the Casa de la Química within the gardens of the Alcázar; Casa del Sol, a defensive house constructed using three portions of the walls; Puerta de San Andrés, a gate restored in the 16th century and flanked by two towers, one round and the other square, entrance to the Jewish quarter, also called Socorro Arch because of the statue of the Virgin of the same name.
There are many other sights to visit in Segovia that have not been mentioned in the itineraries, such as the Church of El Salvador, Church of San Lorenzo, the numerous streets within the walled sector, as well as the surrounding verdant areas. Antonio Machado House-Museum
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Itineraries throughout the province Tourist guides are available during the summer months in the following cities: Ayllón, Coca, Cuéllar, Pedraza, Santa María la Real de Nieva, Sepúlveda, and La Granja de San Ildefonso.
The Royal Route Eleven kilometers from Segovia on the N–601, in an unparalleled setting at the foot of the mountains, is the elegant Palacio de La Granja de San Ildefonso. This grandiose palace was begun in 1721 with the participation of various architects, including Teodoro Ardemans and Juan Bautista Sachetti, making a beautiful blend of Spanish Barroque and French neoclassical styles with subtle Italian touches. Ornate furnishings and antiques from the period, as well as 17th century
Flemish painting, and an excellent collection of tapestries are displayed. The palace is surrounded by spectacular formal gardens with numerous species of plants and is adorned with statues and 26 monumental fountains in an elaborate display of light and color, perhaps the most delightful part of the complex. Nearby, we encounter the Royal Glass Factory of La Granja, an industrial building dating from the 18th century with a permanent exhibit and
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Estate grounds at the Palace of Riofrío
other temporary ones devoted to the delicate art of glass–making. Fifteen kilometers from La Granja, we come upon Valsaín, where we recommend a visit to the magnificent forests with a Nature Center and recreational areas. Later we pass Revenga before coming to the Palacio de Riofrío. This regal country mansion, a square construction measuring 84 meters (275 feet) on each side, is surrounded by an extensive
Palacio de La Granja de San Ildefonso
holm oak grove of 700 hectares (1700 acres) abounding in wildlife. Italianate in appearance, the building houses works by Ribera, Houasse, Pereda and other artists, and part of it is used as a Hunting Museum, exhibiting armaments from the past three centuries, trophies, and paintings by Velázquez, Rubens and others. After visiting the retreats of La Granja and Riofrío, we proceed on the N–603 for 30 kilometers until we come to San Rafael and El Espinar, near the Hermitage of Cristo del Caloco. The two towns are located in the heart of the mountains. After taking the Autovía N–VI for 21 kilometers, we come to Villacastín, where we can admire its huge church started in 1529 by the Friar Antonio de Villacastín and still unfinished, with a beautiful interior and works by various artists.
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The Mudejar Route The word Mudejar refers to the Muslims who remained in Castile after the Reconquest and to their art, characterized by Islamic influence. Taking the C–605 road northwest for thirty kilometers, we come to Santa María la Real de Nieva, a town built around the monastery finished in the 15th century. A treasure of medieval Castilian art, the church and the cloister, with its profusely decorated capitals, are noteworthy. A total of 17 kilometers away is Coca, the town where the famous Roman emperor Theodosius the Great was born. Especially worth visiting in Coca are the remains of the old walls and Arch of La Villa, the Church of Santa María la Mayor with the alabaster tomb of the Fonseca family and, in particular, the splendid Mudejar castle with its richly decorated walls distributed around a large Renaissance courtyard, one of the most famous and best preserved castles in the whole of Spain.
Twenty–seven kilometers to the north, passing Chañe and Arroyo de Cuéllar, we reach Cuéllar, the second largest city in the province with a population of 10,000. Of interest are the double walls and gates, the Gothic castle–palace with its Mudejar doorway and large Renaissance courtyard, the sanctuary of Nuestra Señora del Henar, and numerous Romanesque churches with tall towers and Mudejar apses, including the Churches of San Miguel, San Esteban, San Andrés and San Martín.
The Castle. Coca
Nearby, we find Madriguera and El Muyo, villages brimming with color and contrasts.
The Mountain Villages Route Leaving Segovia on the N–110, twenty kilometers away we encounter Sotosalbos, a village with an exceptional Romanesque church. A total of 15 kilometers further, having turned off at Matabuena, we arrive at Pedraza. Here we must mention the Plaza Mayor, the medieval jail, the Church of San Juan, and the castle which is also a museum for the painter Zuloaga.
Eighteen kilometers north of Riaza is Ayllón, but before stopping here, we should pause a short while on the N–110 in Santa María de Riaza to visit the Romanesque church. In Ayllón, our attention focuses on the Isabelline Palace of Juan de Contreras, and Renaissance Church of Santa María la Mayor. Furthermore, the Palace of Bishop Vellosillo has been converted into a Museum of Contemporary Art.
Our next stop 60 kilometers northeast is Riaza, where we suggest a walk though this lovely Castilian village to appreciate the typical architecture, in addition to the Palace of Los Vélez de Guevara, Church of Virgen del Manto. Near Riaza, we find the beech grove of La Pedrosa, a lovely scenic spot, as well as La Pinilla ski resort.
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The Castle Route Carbonero el Mayor is located 26 kilometers north of Segovia on the N–601 road. Here we can view the impressive interior of the Church of San Juan Bautista built at the beginning of the 16th century, along with the Plaza Mayor and Palacio de los Avriales. Thirteen kilometers later, after having turned to the right in Navalmanzano, we reach Fuentepelayo. In this town, we have the Church of Santa María la Mayor with its lovely Gothic interior, a Romanesque apse and tower. The facade belongs to the Old Cathedral of Segovia and was brought here after a fire destroyed most of the building. Some five kilometers further, we find Aguilafuente, a town rich in archeological remains.
Twelve kilometers southeast takes us to Turégano and requires a stop at the castle, which disguises a lovely 12th century Romanesque church, reforming pre–existing Roman and Arab structures. After Turégano, we proceed on the C–603 north until we come to the industrious town of Cantalejo. We then take a local road and reach Sepúlveda, after having driven about 30 kilometers. Here we find the splendid Romanesque church of
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the Hermitage of San Frutos (patron saint of Segovia), and the ruins of the Monastery of Nuestra Señora de la Hoz. Near Sepúlveda, we find Castilnovo castle, a Mudejar fortress built in the 14th century. Beech forest of La Pedrosa. Riofrío
El Salvador, precursor of this style erected in 1093. We can also admire the 12th century sanctuary of Santa María de la Peña, some of the old gates, the castle, Plaza Mayor, and other churches.
Other places of interest Some scenic nature spots that should not be overlooked include the Cantalejo lagoons, the Riaza river canyon and its reserve of birds of prey, and the Enebralejos cave. Other picturesque towns not on the itinerary are Martín Muñoz de las Posadas, Paradinas, Prádena, Nava de la Asunción, Fuentidueña and Sacramenia.
The Romanesque Church of Santiago in Sepúlveda has been recently renovated to house the interesting Environmental Center of Las Hoces of Duratón River Nature Park, not very far from the town. It is a reserve for vultures where we also find
Part of the Riaza river canyon
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Leon, Agriculture, Livestock and Mountain Services (Delegación Territorial de la Junta de Castilla y León, Servicio de Agricultura, Ganadería y Montes). Special mention must be given to snow sports. La Pinilla ski resort, 70 kilometers from Segovia, meets all the demands of the skiing enthusiast. (Winter resorts pertaining to the Community of Madrid are not very far.)
Entertainment and events It is advisable to consult the local newspapers for cultural events and other activities scheduled during the time of your visit. We would also like to point out the Juan Bravo Theater, built in 1918, as a center of importance. Segovia hosts various international festivals, including the International Puppet Festival "Titirimundi", the Folk Festival of Segovia, La Esteva Folklore Festival, and Music Festival. All of them take place between the months of May and September. For more information, contact the Foundation Don Juan de Borbón. Juan Bravo, 7 10.
Cuisine and handicrafts Segovian cooking gives rise to the leading industry in the province with its numerous restaurants, especially those with typical brick roasting ovens. The key to their success is the excellent quality of the products used and the expert hands of the master chefs who have made the region a mandatory gathering place for discriminating palates.
The best areas to visit after nightfall are found in the vicinity of the Plaza Mayor, Plaza del Azoguejo and the neighboring streets.For sports enthusiasts, the province offers countless possibilities to practice all types of sports related to nature, including hiking, horseback riding, hunting or fishing. For more information on hunting or livestock – reserves, licenses, species, etc., contact the Delegation for Castile and
Typical oven
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Typical dishes include "judiones de la Granja" (a stew of oversize broad white beans), "sopa castellana" (soup with eggs, bread and garlic), roast suckling pig, roast lamb, "caldereta" (stewed lamb), veal, trout, tench, partridge, and quail. The abundant forests are ideal for all kinds of mushrooms to flourish. Sweets are represented by "ponche segoviano" (a liqueur–dipped, custard–filled cake frosted with marzipan). There are two wines produced in the region: Ribera de Duero with young clarets and exceptional red wines, and Rueda with magnificent white wines.
Older and more typical ones featuring giants and large–headed figures include San Frutos, patron saint of the city, the 25th of October, together with the customary celebrations of Holy Week. The Festival of Santa Águeda takes place around the 5th of February in the entire province, particularly in the town of Zamarramala. During this festival, the married women take over the community and ridicule, jokingly of course, the men of the town. There are some variations depending on each town, but most of the townspeople dress up in traditional costumes for the event.
Handicrafts are skillfully produced by over a hundred workshops in the province and include textiles, with a tradition going back to the Middle Ages, glass–making, which was promoted by royalty, ceramics, metallurgy, leatherwork, woodworking and flint.
In Cuéllar, the last week of August, the oldest running of the bulls in Spain is held, and in El Espinar, the second Saturday of September, the "Romería" (pilgrimage) of Cristo del Caloco journeys from the town to the nearby hermitage of the same name.
Popular festivals
Festival of Santa Águeda. Zamarramala
In the capital city of Segovia, the festivals of San Juan and San Pedro, between the 23rd and 29th of June, deserve special mention. 21
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Itinerary III
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Itinerary IV
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Photographs: TURESPAÑA Archives
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Translation: J. West
Printed by: EGRAF, S. A.
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Text: Tomás Díaz Martínez
Published by: © Turespaña Secretaría de Estado de Turismo y Comercio Ministerio de Industria, Turismo y Comercio
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CARTOGRAFÍA: GCAR, S.L. Cardenal Silíceo, 35 Tel. 914 167 341 - 28002 MADRID - AÑO 2005 [email protected] de
Pase o
Plaza de la Reina Sa n J C Victoria Eugenia ua Caalle V n Casa de Pa ela lle de se rde la Quimica o Plaza Jardín Po zu elo
Paris
20
General information
Río
13
0
27 Pa s
De sc al za s
C-605
ARÉVALO 57 km
ER
17 18 19
a
Villen
de
és
Casa de la Moneda Pa da e se Calle de la Mon o S an J uan d PA S e la C EO ruz
C U E S TA
London
Marqu
Calle
14
14 14 16
Entertainment and events
ET
United Kingdom
Dublin
SEGOVIA
28
SAN
Ireland
N
de
ra
INO
Itineraries throughout the province The Royal Route The Mudejar Route The Mountain Villages Route The Castle Route Other Places of Interest
29
CAM
Itineraries in the city 3 Outside the Walls 3 Segovia, World Heritage City 5 Los Caballeros Quarter 9 Scenic City Route 11 Other Places of Interest 13
RR
1
CL-300
30 CA
Introduction
ZAMARRAMALA 3 km
PALENCIA 39 Km
TORDESILLAS 25 Km
Castronuevo de Esgueva
Cistérniga
Laguna de Duero Viana de Cega
Pesquera de Duero
Olivares de Duero
VALLADOLID A-62
Villafuerte
CastrilloTejeriego
Olmos de Esgueva
B
N-122
Quintanilla de Onésimo
Peñafiel
Tudela de Duero
V A L L A D O L I D
Boecillo
Montemayor de Pililla
Aldeamayor de San Martín
Fompedraza
Cogeces del Monte
Sac
Río
MEDINA DEL CAMPO 15 Km
Río
Portillo Camporredondo Campaspero Membibre Fu San Miguel de la Hoz del Arroyo Fuentidueña Cogeces Matapozuelos Mojados San Cristóbal de Íscar Embalse de de Cuéllar Olombrada las Vencías Megeces Cuéllar Perosillo Vallelado Fuentepiñel R ío Frumales Alcazarén Íscar Adrados Fuente Remondo Pedrajas de Torrecilla Chañe Hontalbilla de Fuen San Esteban del Pinar Arroyo Ce ga de Cuéllar Villaverde Sanchonuño Fuenterre de Íscar Olmedo Samboal Gomezserracín Fuente el Lastras de Cuéllar Olmo de Íscar N-601 Pinarejos Zarzuela del Pinar Cabe Fuente de Aguilafuente Coca Mudrián San Martín Santa Cruz Veganzone Navalmanzano Navas Fuentepelayo Ataquines Santiuste de de Oro Escalona San Juan Bautista Tur Aldea Real Río del Prado Bernardos Carbonero Nava de el Mayor Mozoncillo A-6 la Asunción Nieva
Hoyuelos
Adaja
Adanero
Marazuela
Jemenuño
Abades
Bercial
SALAMANCA 77 Km
Muñopedro Labajos Velayos
AP-6
Á V I L A Mingorría
N-501
Fuentemilanos Zarzuela del Monte
N-VI
N-403
Villacastín
Navas de San Antonio
El Espinar
Voltoya
PLASENCIA 142 Km
N-110 Otero de Herreros
N-110 AP-51
ÁVILA
T
Valdihuela
I S
10
20
A M
E
Si
r er
a
E de
Navacerrada 1860
N
Cercedilla Nav
San Rafael
Guadarram San Lorenzo de El Escorial El Escorial
Galapagar
30 Km
CARTOGRAFÍA: GCAR, S.L. Cardenal Silíceo, 35 Tel. 914 167 341 - 28002 MADRID - AÑO 2005 [email protected]
Robledo de Chavela El Hoyo de Pinares Cebreros
TOLEDO 110 Km
San Ildefo
C
Navalperal de Pinares
N-403 0
SEGOVIA
Riofrío Valsaín AP-61 Revenga N-603
S
1531
N
N-110
Torrecaba
Valverde del Majano
Marugán Hernansancho
Sotosal
Asenjo
Garcillán
Sangarcía
Río
Sanchidrián
P de
Adrada de Pirón
Valseca Hontanares de Eresma
Paradinas
Martín Muñoz de las Posadas
Cantimpalos Torreiglesias sma
Codorniz
Montuenga
Tiñosillos
San Pedro
Santa María la Real de Nieva
Ere
San Cristóbal de la Vega
Arévalo
Valdemorillo Majada
BURGOS 70 Km Zazuar
Villalba de Duero
Roa
Alcubilla de Peñaranda Avellaneda de Duero
Aranda de Duero
B U R G O S
N-122
Montejo de la Vega de la Serrezuela
Moradillo de Roa
S O R I A
Río
San Esteban Rí o Pardilla de Gormaz Fuentenebro Honrubia Embalse Fuentecambrón Sacramenia Maderuelo de Linares Valtiendas de la Cuesta del Arroyo Aldeanueva de Fuentesoto Languilla la Serrezuela Moral de Riaz a N-110 dueña Hornuez 1313 Castro de A-1 Rubio balse de Ayllón Fuentidueña Vencías Fresno de Liceras Castroserracín la Fuente ntepiñel Santa María de Riaza Fresno de Urueñas Montejo Cantespino Francos Embalse de de Tiermes Fuente el Olmo Aldeonte Burgomillodo de Fuentidueña Boceguillas Barbolla Sepúlveda Fuenterrebollo Castillejo Alquité de Mesleón Madriguera PARQUE NATURAL DE LAS Cantalejo HOCES DEL RÍO DURATÓN Riaza Villacadima Duruelo Cabezuela Cerezo de Arriba Ríofrio te Aldealcorvo Villafranca de Riaza ganzones Cerezo de Abajo Villarejo Cantalojas Lobo La Matilla Ventosilla LA PINILLA Turégano Rebollo 2273 Prádena Somosierra Du
ra
tó
n
Caballar s
Pedraza Torre Val de San Pedro
Pelayos del Arroyo
orrecaballeros
R
n Ildefonso
E
n
C a
de
G
N
u
ad
a
rr
errada 60
Colmenar de la Sierra
Navafría 1760
Embalse de Riosequillo
Buitrago del Lozoya Embalse de El Atazar
Embalse Rascafría de Pinilla
Navacerrada
Puebla de Beleña
Torrelaguna
Soto del Real San Agustín de Guadalix
Colmenar Viejo Hoyo de Manzanares Embalse de El Pardo
M-607
A-1
Torrelodones
San Sebastián de los Reyes
Algete M-106
El Pardo
Las Rozas de Madrid Majadahonda M-50
Alcobendas M-40
MADRID
Humanes
Viñuelas Toll Road
El Molar
Tres Cantos
Collado Villalba
El Cubillo de Uceda
N-320
A-2
Motorway National Highway Primary Regional Road Secondary Regional Road Local Road Railroad Parador Nature Park Golf course Ski Resort Marina Camp grounds World Heritage Site
ZARAGOZA 267 Km
Embalse de Santillana
Tamajón Embalse de Beleña
Canencia Valdemanco La Cabrera
Miraflores de la Sierra
Manzanares el Real
A-6
Embalse de El Vado
Lozoyuela
M A D R I D
NAVACERRADA
ar
Robregordo
A
VALDESQUI
adarrama
GUADALAJARA
Matabuena
a
T
OVIA
Somosierra
L
N-110 Navafría
Sotosalbos
1404
am
D
Langa de Duero SORIA 71 Km
Fuentecén
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