Manualof Hand Sewing

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COPYRIGin" DEPOSIT.

MANUAL OF EXERCISES IN

HAND SEWING ADOPTED BY

NDUSTRIAL AND GRADED SCHOOLS.

BY

MARGARET

J.

BLAIR,

Author of " Sewing and Garment Drafting,"

Instructor of Sewing in the School of Agriculture, University of Minnesota.

FIRST EDITION.

ST.

PAUL, MINN.:

WEBB PUBLISHING 1904.

CO.,

'K

LIBRARY

of

CONGRESS

Two Copies Received

DEC 19

1904

y Couyrii;ni tntry /OoAt ;:^$.^^o^*
CI.

Copy

XXc. Noi

B.

COPYRIGHTED,

1904,

BY

WEBB PUBLISHING

CO.

INDEX. Apron Back Stitching Bag

25 5

15

Basting Blind Hemming Button Holes Buttons

5-11

64 36-85 39-87

Catstitching

6

Chainstitching

7

Darning

Damask Darning

91

Stockinet Darning

'

41-89

Stockinet Web Darning Three Cornered Darn

Decorative

93 18

Stitches

75 30

Doll's Skirt

Double Hemstitching Drawing Threads Extension Hems Faced Hems Fastenings Buttons Button Holes Hook and Eyes Loops and Eyelets Feather Stitching Felled Seam and Hemmed Seams Flannel Patch Flannel Seams French Seams, Back Stitched

7-56

26 54

54 87 39 36-85

87 88 7

49

34 83

and

Half

Seam French Hem French Knots Gathering, Gauging and Putting on Band

Back Stitched 46 63

75 30-67

INDEX.

vi

Gathering and Putting on a Ruffle Gussets Half Back Stitch Hemmed Patch

59

Hemmed Seam Hemming Blind Hemming

49

69 46 81

21 64

Faced and Extension Hem French Hem Hems on Woolen Material and Three Cornered Darn.. Hemstitched Hem Rolled

54 63 64

49

Hem

Slip Stitch

59

Hemming

64

Turning Hem Herringbone Stitch Hooks and Eyes Loops and Eyelets Loop Stitch Matching of Stripes Mitered Corner Model Apron Model Bag Model Doll's Skirt Model Pillow Slip Model Sheet Model Towel

36-56

Overcasting Overhand Patch

28-79

Overhand Stitch

52-6

21 6

87 87 8

77 75

25 15

30 23

21

6

Patching Flannel Patch

34

Hemmed

81

Overhand Pillow

28

.79

23

Slip

Plackets

Placket Holes

30

Skirt Plackets

71

Sleeve Placket Putting on Band Putting on Ruffle Questions and Answers Rolled and Hemstitched

73 aO-67

59 96

Hems and

Putting on a Ruffle.

.

59

INDEX.

vii

Running and Basting Running Stitch

43 5-9

Seams Back Stitched Seam

5

Basting Seams

5-11

Seam Seam French Seam

46

Half Back Stitched Seam

46

49

Felled

Flannel

83

Hemmed Seam

49

Overhanding Sewed Sewing on Buttons Sewir. g on Lace Sewing on Tapes

28-79

13 39 53 26-56

21

Sheet Skirt

Plackets

71

Sleeve Plackets Slip Stitch

73

Hemming

64

Stitches

Backstitching

5

Basting

5-11

Catstitching

6

Chainstitching

Decorative Stitches Double Hem Stitching Feather Stitch

French Knots Half Back Stitch Herringbone Stitch Loop Stitch On Canvass Overcasting Stitch

Overhand Stitch Running Stitch Stockinet Darning Stockinet

Web

Three Cornered Darning Towel Turning Hem

7

75 ,

7 7

75

46 6 8 5 6

52-6 5-9

41-89

93 18 36-56

21

INTRODUCTION. All educators agree that the beginning and successive

steps

of

education murt harmonize with

corresponding stages of the ch

o

the

This

development.

gives sewing, cutting and fashioning garments one of

the first places in the succession of studies to be taken up.

The

child has scarcely a point of contact with

the world that he so readily perceives as that his

made by

own garments.

A

refined taste in one's dress

and belongings has

usually been regarded as an acquirement of adult

But

if

the child

is

lines, his taste will

trained along wholesome natural

develop individuality very early.

To introduce sewing schools,

three

successfully

in

the

public

important points must be considered. Second, the effect upon

First, the merit of the system.

the school

life.

work and upon the

ity or efficiency of those

pupil.

Third,

who superintend

tlie

abil-

or teach the

sewing.

Under

a system wdiich

is

carefully planned and

properly carried out, learning to sew will become a pleasant as well as an instructive part of cation.

a child's

edu-

EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING

2

The system should he adapted grades

;

the

to

should be simple and practical

it

;

diflferent it

should

have some relation to the other school work.

In our work

touches upon animal

it

and other creatures which in one

the sheep, silkworm,

way

through

life

or another produce textile threads or the sewing

In much the same manner

implements.

on plant

life.

Then,

it

touches up-

arithmetic, drawing, color

too,

study, physical training, geography and history

with sewing in this system.

correlated

training makes a pupil

It is a great

work

in a class,

number

advantage

which

taught successfully should

Yet experience

also

teaches that

necessary to give children a variety of work, that

is

if a

work and

to be

have but one kind of

to

moi'e than twenty- five, as pupils need in-

dividual attention.

is,

interests the pupil

in neatness.

also

not

manual

and more observ-

active

and

child does not succeed satisfactorily with the

in hand,

the first time, give her another piece,

later return to the first instead of insisting that she

work on the one piece

until

A

exact.

it is

had the industrial work used

in

child

who has

the kindergarten or

lower grades, will have had training to prepare readily

The

be

Sewing, properly taught, trains the child

in nature.

it

more

It rests certain faculties

ing.

All

may

to

first

take

up the sewing

work given should be

some of the simple sures regularity of

in

the fourth grade.

a piece of canvas

stitches used in sewing. stitch,

as

well

hei'

as

and

This en-

the method

of

EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. making

it.

materials at

It is also better to give chiklreu the coarser first,

as their little

hands need training in

holding their work licforc they take

The next material placed

np

in the pnpil's

"gingham

will

be

gnide for the

a

As

training the piipil to sew straight.

work.

fine

hands

The

be gingham or half-l)leached nmslin. the

3

slionhl

stripes of

stitches,

tluis

the different

kinds of material are taken up, the teacher slionld instruct the pupils concerning them,

and should give

in-

struction in the use of the implements in the sewing basket.

The sewing to

the child,

basket,

which

thread, thimble,

needles,

in itself will

ta])e-line,

a delight

source of pride to the small

The

and emery.

orderly keeping of this basket will Udt

A

lie

should be well equipped with scissors,

fail

to

be

a

girl.

well graded system of sewing will include reg-

ular examinations for which a text Ijook outlining the

recpiirements

and suggesting questions will be quite Essays dealing with some

indispensable.

sewing,

—

the implements used,

<»r

lu'anch

of

describing the his-

tory of textiles from the shearing of the sheep, the

planting of the cotton seed, or the beginning of the life of the silk

ment of

By

the

worm,

—may

be recpiired, at the judg-

teacher.

the time a child completes her grade

.should be well versed in the relative prices

of silk and gingham. she

is

She may learn

most teachable, how

to select

work she

and quality

at the

age

when

her household

lin-

EXERCISES

4

en

:iii
even

if

To

HAND SEWING.

IN

wliv the firm-threaded it

is

a little

is

cheapest in the end,

more expensive

at first.

teach sewing snccessfnlly the teacher must be

ahle to adapt the system to her pnpils and to the time

she has at her disposal.

even in a limited period

Much if

can he accomplished

the essentials are properly

chosen from the elementary work here outlined.

MODEL

I.

STITCHES OK CANVAS. To teach

Object: the

regularity of stitches as well as

method of making them. Materials:

Ada

canvas,

size

cerized crochet cotton, red and green, blue these colors being

complementary

pointed tapestry needles

ISTo.

which make

Dult

each other.

a

to find the

middle row

row of running

stitch-

Since running stitches are

using the red cotton.

es,

and orange,

24.

Fold the canvas lengthwise of holes through

to

Mer-

7x0 inches.

small basting stitches of equal

thread ^^hould

size, the

pass through each hole in the row.

Skip one row of holes, and in the next one make a

row of basting

this

stitches,

using the green cotton.

row put the needle down through the

up through the second, then skipping the

needle

hole

insert

and in the next one make

stitching,

using the orange cotton.

down through

tlien

the

back through

Skip two rows

stitch.

of holes,

second,

first

hole

again coming up through the next hole.

This makes an uneven basting

the needle

a

In

a

In this row put

first hole,

the

row of back

first

up through the again

and

up

through the canvas one hole ahead of wliere the previ-

EXERCISES

6

ons stitch

Continue in the sanic man-

canxas.

left tlie

Skip one row of holes and make

ner across the canvas. a

HAND SEWING

IN

of overhanding' over the next two,

roAv

In

bine cotton.

down through under

the

Insert

it.

to the first

makes

row of

the

up through the one

through the one under

which

stitches

needle

again in the hole next

the needle u|)

pnt

stitches

hole aiid

first

one aiid

row of

a

this

using the

slant

Skip one row of holes and make

a

This

it.

from right

to left.

row of hackstitching

like the previous one.

Skip two rows of holes and beginning

make

row of overcasting over the next two, using

a

This row of stitches

the green cotton.

same left

as the to

overhanding except that

right

Ski]> one

and

a

hole

the

at left

throuiih the second hole

in the first

Carrv

bone" and

tlu^

This stitch is

a

left,

hold |)ut

the

thread

the needle

and up through the it

first.

doAvn through the

thread across to the fourth hole

row and continue

finished.

is

as before until the

row

sometimes called "herring-

used to catch open the seams of flannels,

in patching flannel the ridge

stitch.

row of holes and up through

hole in the third

the second.

is

worked from

between each

hand and

Carry the thread across and put iliird

the

using the red cotton.

row begin

this

under the thumb of the

down

left

is

is

it

made

is

row of holes and over the next three make

r(»w of catstitching

In

at the left

and on raw edged hems,

formed by folding the edge.

to avoid

EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.

7

Skip one row and make another row of overcastSkip two rows of holes

ing like the previous one.

and

in the next

one make a row of chainstitchi np: nsing

Ihe orange cotton.

This stitch

worked towards you.

is

thi'oad

nnder the thumb of the

needle

down through

second, bringing

it

the

first

left

thus holding

it

the

hand and put the

hole and

up through

out over the thread.

needle again in the second hole, putting right of the point

Hold

it

the

Insert the

down

at the

where the thread leaves the canvas,

in place.

Come up through

the next

bringing the needle over the thread as before.

hole,

This results in a series of stitches resembling the

The

links of a chain.

not

drawn

stitches should be

uniform and

too tightly.

C'hainstitching

is a

method of embroidering often

used for outlining patterns.

Skip a

a

row of holes and over the next three make

row of featherstitching, using the blue This stitch

thread under the

down through it

is

worked towards you.

also

thumb

the

first

in

the middle

row of

the

side,

holes.

row and bring

the middle row, bring-

ing the needle out over the thread.

on the opposite

Hold

of the left hand, put the needle

hole in the top

up through the second hole

stitch

cotton.

Take the second

pointing the needle toward

For the second

stitch the

needle should enter the canvas in the third row of holes opposite the second one in the middle row, and come

up through the third hole

in the

middle and over the

EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.

8

down bv

thread,

which

in the

same manner until the row

Two on each

or

is

held

more

is

Continue

completed.

stitches instead of one

Feather

side.

the thumb.

may

stitch or brier stitch

be taken is

often

used in embroidery and fancy work, as well as in sewing.

It

used very often in finishing the seams,

is

hems and tucks of featherstitching

is

flannel garments.

The beauty

of

in uniformity of the stitch.

Skip one row of holes and make another one of chainstitching like the previous one.

Skip one row of holes and over the next three

make

the loop stitch, using the red cotton.

This stitch

is

worked from

left to right, holding,

the edge of the material towards you.

Hold needle

the thread under the

down through

second one beneath

Repeat

it,

hole and

bringing

it

row

the

up through the

out over the thread. is

completed.

Loo])

used to secure and ornament the edges of wool-

en materials.

It is also used for

by making the

The row

working the edges of

stitches close together.

of running stitches being in the middle

of the model, repeat

half of the model.

with

first

this process until the

stitch is

doilies

the

thumb and put

all

the other stitches on the other

Overcast the ends of the model

the red cotton, leavino- half

an inch for

fringinsf.

MODEL KUNNI^G Object:

To

bleached muslin N'o.

;

STITCH.

learn the running stitch and

A

Material:

II.

piece of striped

size

its use.

gingham

0x3 inches, needles

or half-

]^o. 8,

thread

60 (red).

Turn

a half incli fold

on one edge of the muslin

and, beginning at the right to sew, take several small

Model

IT

Running Stitch.

even stitches upon the needle

at a

time and sew across,

keeping the line of sewing one-eighth of an inch from the fold or following the stitch in the gingham.

Great

care should be taken to fasten the thread firmly and neatly.

same

This

is

done by taking two

place, one over the other.

stitches

in

the

EXERCISES

10

A

second row of

inch below ularity

tlie first.

of stitch

IN

HAND SEWING.

stitclies

The teacher

.should

and of spaces, and

are exactly even, as tliev shonld be, the the

same on both

size, is

one-half

work for

if

the

work

reg-

stitches will look

sides.

Running, which eqnal

made

shonld be

is

composed of small

stitches of

nsed in seams that are not subject to mncli

strain, in darning,

and

in oatherins'.

MODEL

III.

BASTIXG STITCHES. To leani

(Jhjeci:

Materia]:

by

liow to baste.

Gingliam or

lialf-bleaclied

inches, needle 'No. 8, thread

(i

Turn

a

muslin

6

No. 60 (red).

half inch fold on one side of the mnslin;

coiuincnce at the right and baste across the material

one-eighth of an inch from the edge.

knot

is left

on the

rii>'ht

Model

side so as to be easilv

The thread

The

first

is

removed

Basting Stitch.

III

when the basting threads work.

In basting the

are cnt and

drawn from

the

fastened the same as in rmining.

stitches

in

the

model are small, even

EXERCISES IN HAND SEWINCx.

12

basting stitches, one-eighth of an inch nnderneath bv

one-eighth

inch on top.

This method of basting

nsed for the seams of any garment that

The next

is

is

is

to be fitted.

an nneven basting stitch one-eighth

inch nnderneath and one-fourth

incli

above.

This

is

nsed for basting seams that are to be overhanded.

Then comes an uneven one-half inch wliich for

used for basting hems or seams

machine sewing.

The next es,

is

basting, one-eighth inch bv

basting,

which

is

composed of three

stitch-

each one-eighth inch long and a stitch three-fourths

inch, is used for basting the

seams of

skirts,

and gives

firmness for fitting.

A

pupil should be taught the need of basting

work before work

in

it

is

all

sewed, since basting stitches keep the

place and the line of basting should be so

straight that

it

will serve as a guide for the stitching.

MODEL

IV.

SEWED SEAM. A basting; B

Exercise:

To

Object:

Materials:

learn

Two

muslin 3 by 6 inches,

how

sewing;

to

overcasting.

sew a seam.

pieces of ISTo.

C

gingham or unbleached

8 needle

and No. 60 thread

(red).

Place the two pieces of material together and baste one-fourth inch from the edge, using an uneven basting

Model IV stitch.

Sew

just below the basting, taking three or four

short running stitches

three

Sewed Seam.

commence

needle where

it

of even

length.

In the next

with a back stitch by inserting the left

the cloth in the next to the last

EXERCISES

14

stiteli

HAND SEWING,

IN

sewing in the same manner until the seam Fasten the tliread as in running. shdulfl he taught to seAV

the tliread ly

Continue

of the previous three ruiniiiig stitches.

l)y

taking

Jn

without

oiu' stitch,

a

this

is finished.

seam

tlie

pupil

knot, hut to fasten

di'awing the thread near-

through the material, then taking one or two stitches

hack

to

where the

was

first

started.

Finish the seam by

overcasting the edges so that they will not fray or ravel.

Before overcasting the seam, the edges, raveled very much,

overcasting

is

by taking the nearest

tlie

may

seam sewed.

the stitches over the

they have

he carefully trimmed.

begun with first stitch

if

a

knot which

is

The

concealed

from the inside of the piece Beginning

raw edge.

at the left

When

properly

make made

the overcasting stitches should be uniform, the distance

lietween

them and the

d(']ith

l>eing the same.

MODEL

V.

BAG. To

Object:

teach overliaiiding'.

Exercises:

A, overlianding

Materials:

Giiigliani 5

B,

;

hLMummg;

C, inni-

iiing.

70 (white), needle Ko.

make

First

a lunii

8.

on the

ham, teaching the pupil eighth inch, creasing

to

hem

shonld

l)e

long sides of the ging-

twr>

turn over the edge one-

and then tnrn the fold down

it

the desired width for the

place the

by IS inches, thread No.

hem and

but a

little

When hemming

inch in width.

to take the

it.

this

the pn])il shonld be at

the

same angle

same quantity of material on the

The space between

In

more than one-eighth

taught always to insert the needle

and

baste

the stitches should

needle.

always be the

same.

In hemming the knot can be hidden

Take up nj)

through the edge of the

insert

the

needle very

where the thread fore.

in the

hem.

two threads of the material, slant the needle

nearly

left the

Across the ends

fold.

For the next

stitch

underneath the point

material and proceed as be-

make hems one and

three-fourths

EXERCISES

16

Baste the sides of the bag together and

inches wide.

overhand the seams

Hold

HAND SEWING.

IN

to the

u|)

wide hems.

work firmly between the thnmb and

the

fore-

finger of the left hand, never over the first finger, as

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in a long

other

mence

seam

tlic

both edges at

V

<mk' side will

and the at

r.

end.>^

right

will to

Bag.

be taken

np more than the

come ont nnevenly.

sew.

Com-

Pnt the needle through

right angles with the seam and with the

point towards the seamstress.

The

stitches shonld not

be too far apart, too dee]), nor too tightly drawn, or

a

'y\\mSmsj)\\

STITCHES ON CANVAS.

EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. ridge will be formed qiuirter

when

the

seam

hemming

inch above the

is

of

17

opened. the

One-

wide hems

put in a row of running stitches, thus forming a space

In order that the bag

for the cord or tape. easily opened, or closed,

are used. it

it

Insert one in the space prepared for

started.

site side, also

hem.

same

The other cord goes

coming out where

where the cord or tape

is

be

two pieces of the cord or tape

through both sides and out at the

which

may

it

it,

carry

place from

in on the oppo-

entered.

The

place

juined should be hidden in the

MODEL

VI.

THREE-COEXEKKl) DAEX. Exercise: Object

:

A. dai'iiing;

To

Materials:

same

loop-stitcli.

]>,

learii liow to

mend

a tear.

Piece flannel 4 by 4 inches, thread

No.

color as flannel, 'Xo. GO,

8 needle, mercerized

spool cotton.

Cnt

thread the same color draw the corners neatly

th(-u wirli

togethei-

with several rnnning stitches, holding the tear

firmly between the thnnd) and

hand,

VI)

a three-cornered hole in the flannel (Fig.

to

first

finger of the left

prevent the edges from raveling.

The corners in plac(\ draw the sides of the tear gether in the same manner.

IJegin

using line i-inining stitches. cariw

tlie

it is

draw

when

well done

the

to

lagged edges shonld

the ihrcad.

it

Always darn on

finished press on the

wrong

the

side.

can scarcely be noticed.

Finish the edge of the model with the loop nsing

to-

one end

Care shonld he taken

away but darned down.

right side, and

If

at

thread the same distance from the tear, each

time, ami not to

not be cut

darning

mercerized

cotton.

stitcli.

Bring the needle

nj)

throuiih the edo-e of the matei'ial and holding the tlii'ead

EXERCISES (luwii i}i

HAND SEWING.

IN

with the thiiinh of the

k't't

hand, insert the neecUe

the material again at the desired depth

ont (jver

tlie

threaih

Proceed

in the

MODEI, vi

Three

19

and bring

same manner

it

to tlie

—

C'okneijed I)arx.

corner where one stitch slionld come directly over the corner,

and

the needle

This

in the stitch ])receding

is

and the one following

inserted in the material at the

stitch is

worked

tVoni left to riolit.

same

point.

^FODEL

VII

SlIKKT.

MODEL VII. MODEL SHEET. A, turning hems; B, basting; C,

Exercise:

licni-

niing.

Object:

To

Materials:

learn

bow

White muslin

thread No. 80, needle No.

Turn and

to beni.

baste a

hem

(>

bv 10 inches.

one-eighth of an inch wide on

Hem

the lengthwise sides of the model.

and for the top of the sheet tnrn

a

hem

inches wide and for the foot one that wide. er.

The ends

of

hems

White

9.

slioidd be

these

hems

one and one-half is

one-half incli

overhanded togeth-

M<j|)KL

VIII

— I'lLT.ow

Slip.

MODEL

VIII.

MODEL PILLOW Exercises: casting; and

Ohjeet:

low

L),

SLIP.

A, basting; B, overlianding

;

C, over-

running.

Teaching different

stitches used

on piL

slip.

Materials:

White

ninslin 7

by 8 inches; No. 9

needle, Xo. 80 thread.

Baste the selvedge edges together one-eighth of an inch from the edge.

fonrth of an inch and these two seams

b_v

Fold back the torn edges oneIjaste as

for selvedges.

fastening with two

Overhand

little

stitches

over each other.

As the beginning,

joining,

and fastening of the

thread varies in the different kinds of seams, the teacher should take s])ecial care to

understand and carefully

have the pupil thoroughly

folloAV instructions.

In overlianding the work between the thund) and

first

is

held firmly lengthwise

linger of the left hand, but

never over the tinger which will cause the seam

to

be

uneven.

Overcast the raw edges and finish the pillow slip

with a

hem an

inch wide.

*

"*

s

.

8 » 9 » » « -

3 Mniii:r.

T

a » » *

,

a » e •'*'* I\--.\I'i;mn.

"

"'

'^

.^

V.

-

%

W-

^..^i^'^

MODEL

IX.

APRON. A, lieinniing; B, g-athering; C, putting

Exercises: oil

band.

To

Object:

teach

Gingliam

Materials: (wliite), needle

No.

and putting on

i>'atliering

by

7

thread

7;

a

band.

80

No.

9.

hem

one-eighth of an inch wide

on each side of the apron.

Across the bottom of the

Baste and

apron make

a

lieni a

hem

three-fourths of an inch deep.

the apron to tind the middle, notching

on the needle as possible.

at a

time as

Draw

many

it

small

at the top,

miming

it

stitches

over and under the

Then hold

eye and point of the needle.

between the thumb and iinger of the

thread and pnll the nredle through.

Place the notch

to the

the gathers

left

with the other pnll each gather in place.

and spread the

take

the stitches together on the needle

and fasten the thread by winding

needleful.

Fold

hand, and

Unwind

Repeat with each middle of the band

gath.ers so that they will cover a space

three and one half inches wide.

Holding the gathers

toward yon, baste and then half backstitch them the band.

and turn

Fold over the band in the edges.

When

to

so as to cover the gathers

basted, overhand the ends

and edges of the band, but hem ers.

the

it

down

across the gath-

MODEL

X.

MODEL TOWEL. Exercises:

A, drawing threads; B, hems; C, hem-

stitching; D, sewing on tape.

Object:

To

teach

how

tn

hemstitch, and sew a

tape on a toweL

Materials :

Crash or ghiss toweling

tape 3 inches, thread Xo.

-t

bv 7 inches,

(white), needle Xo.

(:!0

Measnre np from the edge one and one-fonrth es,

and with the point

coarser threads, removing

it it.

Make narrow hems

and then turn the hems

inch-

the needle pick ont one of the

ot"

hand, so as not to break

drawn.

8.

at

cai'cfnlly

with the right

Six threads shoidd bo

on each side of the towel

the ends, creasing the edge

one-eighth of an inch and baste them even with the

threads

tirst

drawn.

at the left side,

take

np fonr

Fasten the threads in the

hem

and pointing the needle towards von,

Draw

or live of the cross threads.

the

needle throngh and take one stitch as in ordinary hem-

ming, being carefnl not

Repeat

this nntil the

hem

to is

take the stitch too deep.

completed.

.

As both edges

of the draAvn threads are to be hemstitched, repeat the

operation on the other side.

Hemstitching

is

one of the

neatest methods of hnishing the ends of towels.

EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. Overhand

27

the ends of the tape together, a little

more than the depth of

the hem.

Place the overhand-

ing on the tape to the middle of the hem, so that the

f"fft^tifitT*f »Jff ttttfTTiTTtrtt

*A04*Aii*AiA'ii*^**«'^'A**"'*'**'*A|> -•J

-

MooKL X

raw edges

will he

Then turn

tlie

and hem

it

Towel.

towards the end.

Stitch

it

down.

tape back so as to cover the stitching

down

all

around.

tape from pulling oif easily.

should be used for towels.

This will prevent the

A

linen or cotton tape

MODEL

XI.

OVERHAND PATCH. Object :

To

teaeli

how

to set in a })ateli.

A, basting; B, overhanding

Exercises:

;

L\ over-

castins:.

Model XI

Blue cheeked gingham cut in two

Materials: ces, G

by

6

needle 'No.

and 9.

Ovekhand Patch.

?>

pie-

bv 3 inches; thread No. 90 (white),

EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. Cut out of one corner

of the 6

29

by 6 inch piece

a

square 2f bv 2^ inches, then cut the corners diagonally one-eighth of an inch.

Fold over one edge of the patch

and one edge where

is

of an inch.

it

to be joined, each one-fonrth

Place the sides together, having the folded

Overhand one

edges even and baste.

side of the patch,

remove the basting and sew the other side

Care should be taken

manner.

to

in the

exactly match the

checks and not to take the stitches too deep. the it

wrong

will not

the

side

show

raw edges

hem on

and

if

Press on

instructions are carefully followed

wh('r(>

patch has been set

of the patch.

all sides

same

in.

Overcast

Finish the model with a

one-eighth of an inch wide.

MODEL

XII.

DOLL'S SKIRT. Exercises: soanis liole;

;

A, drafting

C, sewing seams

doll's

skirt;

D, overcasting

;

;

B,

basting

E, placket

F, gathering; G, pntting on hand; H, hem.

1/

Model XII

To required

draft a skirt for

—

— r>OLL's a

doll

Skikt.

two measnroments are

the length and the width aronnd the hips.

Hip

EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.

32

From

the liip line.

3

measure out

to

-i

from

the side gore on the hip line, and

the wi
2 out to 5 the

width of the bottom of the side gore.

Draw 5

a line

and mark

measure

from the top of the paper through 4

to

From

1

off the

length of

skirt,

tlie

6.

and draw an outward

in one-fourtli inch to 7,

curve to the point one and one-half inches above

3.

Draw

to

curved line from the top of the second seam

a

and connect 2 and 6

7 for the top of the side gore,

The back

with an outward curved line for the bottom.

Having drafted

breadth should be a straight piece.

and cut the pattern the pupil should be taught

to place

the pattern on the material so as to waste as little of

tlie

cloth as possible. (

*ut

The back

the front on a lengthwise fold of the material. is a

straight piece and slKuild be cut

The measurement from one-fourth of an

1

to

inch for each

')

inch decrease in the

same proportion

length of the doll, or increased in the for a large

first.

should be reduced

(bill.

Baste the seams together using an uneven basting stitch.

Make

a

sewed seam, sewing just below the

bast-

ing, overcasting the edges of the seam.

Cut an opening for a placket

in the center of the

back two and one-half inches long. half

iiicli

wide on the

right side

and

Make a

a

hem

hem

one-eighth

of an inch wide on the opposite side, turning the to the right side.

Place the wide

hem

one-

hem

over the narrow

EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.

33

one and linish across the bottom with two rows of backstitehing',

one-sixteenth of an inch apart.

The back

is

gathered across the top.

Place the center of the front to the center of the band, which for a skirt of this measurement should be cut eleven inches long and one and one-half inches wide.

Baste the band on, holding the skirt towards you, then sew, using the half backstitch. the

wrong

down.

side thus

The ends

Make

a

hem

Turn

the band over to

covering the seam,

and hem

it

of the band should be overhanded.

three-fourths of an inch wide around

the bottom of the skirt.

Place a button and Imttun t^kirt.

liole in

the band of the

MODEL

XIII.

FLAXXEL PATCH. Objccl

:

To

Exercises:

learn

A

how

inches.

patch liaiineL

eatstitch.

Model XIII

Materials:

to

Flanxel Patch.

Fhiiniel squares 5

Mercerized spool cotton

;

by

5

and

needle Xo.

7.

2

by 2

EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. Cut

a hole in tlie center of the hirge piece of flan-

nel one inch square.

Turn

Jiole.

35

Baste the patch evenly over the

the patch over and catstitch

it

on aronnd

the hole, heing careful not to leave any of the threads

of the fabric free to ravel. just over the

If the stitches are taken

raw edges and are not

too large, the edges

of the hole or patch need not be turned in.

Finish the model arcnnid the sides with the lo^p stitch.

MODEL

XIV.

BUTTON HOLES. ObjccI

:

W)

A,

Exercises:

how

learn

tn

make

ovci-liaiuliuii

bnttonlioles.

;

J],

makine' button-

4

liy

5 inches, thread

holes.

Material:

Strij)e(l liiniihaiii

No. 50 (white), needle No. Fold the

twice so that there will be three

o-iiio-hani

raw

thicknesses, turn in the

them

8.

baste and overhand

edi^es,

togethei".

The

jtupil

the Imttdii

slmnld

and

l)c

taniihr

lianuc

tlien

t<)

^Iduki.

XI y

—

]!i

to

tlic

riuN

tiiid

the width of

l)ntt()nh()le

scissors

ui.ii.Ks.

so that the burton lutlc Avheii cut will

Ix'

a little larger

than the bntton. In niakinii the l)ntt()n holes scissors to cut them, letting tlicn-

on

alwavs nse buttonhole

tlie jitipil

paper or muslin until

slie

practice

first ei-

thoroughly under-

EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. stands using

Overhand

tlieni.

not any deeper than

37

the edges closely,

but

necessary to hold the threads.

is

In working the hnttonhole always begin at the end far-

from

tliest

the

edge of the material, working from

the right towards the left, holding the Imttonhole firmly

between the tlnnnb and hrst linger of jiiul

the point toward the wcn-ker, drawing

Take the two threads

hand

Insert the needle with

parallel with the seamstress.

throngh.

left

tlie

at the

but lialfway

it

eye of the needle

and bring them aronnd nnder the point of the needle

from right

Draw

to left.

thread np at right angles

the needle ont and pull the to the

bnttonhole, thus form-

ing a knot, or purl, on the edge.

done in the same way.

The next

stitch is

(^^re shonld be taken to

make

each stitch exactly the same depth and the same distance a])art.

The space between

width of the at

nei'dle,

which

the stitches shonld be the will leave roDUi for the purl

the edge.

When side,

the buttonhole has been

tnrn the end

l)y

making

worked across one

several stitches close to-

gether, so that the buttonhole will be rouuded.

tinne on the other the

t;iking

stitch taken

fou.r

Con-

taking the last stitch opposite

Kiuish the buttonhole with

first.

made by

side,

stitches

a

l)ar,

down through

which the

is

first

aud np on the opposite side throngh the

last stitch taken.

Tliese stitches shonld he

drawn

tight-

ly so as to bring the sides close together.

Work careful

not

several liuttonhole stitches over them, being to

catch

into the

material.

Fasten the

EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.

38

thread bj bringing

it

throngh

to the

wrong

side

and

tak-

ing two small stitches one over the other.

The pnpil shonld to

start

with a thread long enough

complete the buttonhole, but

too short the thread

A new thread

may

may

if

it

buttonhole stitch as if a

to

be

be fastened on the wrong side.

also be fastened in the

brought up through the

found

is

last purl.

same way and

Proceed with the

new thread had

not been nec-

essary,

A in

child will need

making

more than ordinary

a buttonhole in order that she

attention

may

learn

the correct method.

For bands or wherever there button, the buttonhole

On

is

is

much

cut in the direction of the pull.

the shirt waist front or where there

the buttonhole

is

strain on the

is little

cut at right angles to the pull.

strain

MODEL XV. SEWIXG OX BUTTOXS. To

Object:

Material: 8 needle,

learn

Iioav to

sew on bnttons.

A, overlianding'

Exercises:

Ginglunn 4 by

;

B, sewing' on bnttons.

5 incbes, 4 bnttons,

Xo.

Xo. 70 tbread (wbite).

Fold over one of tbe lengtlnvise edges of liam, tben fold

it

tlie

ging-

twice more so as to liave tliree tbiek-

Baste one-eigbtb incb from tbe

nesses of tbe material.

folded edges, nsing

tben overband tbe

a

small uneven Inisting stiteb and

In sewing on tbe bnttons

ed<;es.

r>

r> Model XV Sewing ox Ruttoxs.

draw tbe needle tbrongb side,

onedialf incb from

knot

may

be concealt'd

needle up to tbe rigbt llie

l)utton.

Place

tbe material tlie iiiub']'

si(b>

a [)iu

from tbe

njiper

f(dded edge, so tbat tbe tbe button.

Bring tbe

again and tbrongb

a

bolo in

across tbe top of tbe button,

EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.

40

leaviiiii'

Remove

it

tliei'e

the

the needle

])in

while the

l)iittoii

is

securely sewed on.

which will loosen the

up between

the button

stitches

and

and material

;

brini^

wind

the thread several times around the stitches and fasten it (»n

the

wron

rsin<>'

material

>•

the

when

side. ])in

in

this

the liarment

of sewine: on a button

is

way makes mom is

buttoned.

tnv

tljc

This method

the one most coinmonlv used.

MODEL

XVI.

STOCKING DAENIA^G. Object:

To

Materials: inet 3

hv

-'5

teach the method of darning hosiery.

VayA board 3f bv o^

inches.

inches, darning cotton, black, and

as the stockinet.

Darning needle No.

Stock-

same shade

7.

iillflill

MOOEI. X\'l

StuCKI.NKT

JtAU.N.

Baste the stockinet tirmlv on the card board to prevent

its

being stretched or drawn out of shape, and cnt

the hole in a line with the stitches.

Remove

the cut

EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.

42

loops,

and run

a thread

around the

hole,

Form

fourth of an inch from the edge.

one-

aliout

the

warp

thread of the black darning cotton, which should be

very close together, by bringing the darning cotton up

through the loop stitch

at

one edge and down through

the stitch on the opposite edge.

All of these stitches

should be taken up so that they will not ravel back after the darn

is

completed, and so that there will be

no roughness on the right side of the stockinet. small loop of the darning cotton should

end

to allow for

When

the

left at

each

shrinkage in wasiiing.

warp threads

are all in, begin at the

lower right hand side of the hole threads, taking

Ije

A

to

lill

in

the woof

up the alternate threads of the warp.

In the next row only those threads missed in the preceding one are taken up.

The woof threads should be put

in as close together as possible.

manner

until the hole

is

Continue in the same

Both the warp and

filled.

woof threads should be carried

at

least one-fourth of

an inch beyond the hole in the stockinet so that the darning

may

be firm and not pull

edges of the stockinet.

away from

the

worn

MODEL RTJ^IilXG To

Object:

teach

XVII.

A^B BASTING. miming and

and

basting,

straight sewing.

Exercises:

Running and

Materials:

Unbleached or half-bleached mnslin

by 12 inches.

Turn

the

ISTo.

8,

thread, GO

G

(red).

a half inch fold across one end of the muslin.

Beginning

make

edge,

jSTeedle

basting.

at the right one-eighth of a

an inch from the

row of small even rnnning

work firmly between

the tlunnb and

stitches. first

Hold

finger of

each hand, and using as free wrist motion as possible,

Continue

take several stitches on the needle at a time. in the

same manner

inch below the

until the

first line

row

is

One-half

finished.

of running stitches,

make

an-

other just the same.

Turn

a fold one-fourth of

an inch wide across the

other end of the model, and bring the fold it

will be half an inch below the last

stitches, basting it

with white thread

to

up

so that

row

of running

hold

it

in place.

One-eighth of an inch below the second fold, make a

row of even

l)asting stitches that are one-eighth of

an

inch underneath and one-eighth of an inch on top, using

EXERCISES

44

the red thread.

This

ment that

be

is

to

is

IN

HAND SEWING.

the

method of

fitted,

stitches being small the

as

bastin,i:

any ^ar-

The

a waist or jacket.

seams will not stretch

One-half inch below these stitches make

;'part.

a

row

of uneven basting stitches that are one-eis'hth of an

V

Model XVII^ kfnning and basting.

inch nnderncath

When hems

and

of

one-foiii'th

are to be liemmed

handed, whether selvedge or

b_v

a

an

indi

on

to]).

hand or scams over

fold,

they sliould

be

basted witli this stitch.

The is

third

row

is

also

an uneven l)asring stitch and

one-eighth of an inch nnderncath and one-half of an

EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. inch on eighth

t(tp.


to join a

posed

(if

seams of All

small

this are basting stitches one-

of

a

an inch and one-half by

an inch, a crosswise basting, which

material to a lining. tlirce-eighths of

The

last

row

an inch stitches and

This liasting stitch

stitch.

witli

tlireo-foiirths

l»,v

one-half

Following

45

is

is

nsed

is

com-

a

long-

the best for basting the

a skirt. (if

tlic

lines

of sewing on this model begin

knor on top and are finished bv taking two

sfitcli!

s o\-er each other.

MODEL

XVIII.

PKENCH SEAM, BACKSTITCHED

HALF

AT\"D

BACKSTITCHED SEAM. Ohjcct :

scam and

To

making

teach the method of

French

a

seam.

a Back'^titched

Exercises:

Running-, backstitching and overcast-

Materials:

Unhleaclied or half -bleached mnslin

ing.

cut into three pieces, 3

The

bv

G inches

and

Xeedle Xo.

S,

by 6 inches.

two pieces each

latter should be folded to cut

by 3^ inches.

5^-

2:|-

thread 60, red.

Baste the straight sides of one of the 2] by

3-|

pieces to the 3 by 6 ])iece, basting one-eighth of an inch

from the edge and making the seam on the right

Sew

the material.

the

two or three running the line of basting. ly,

remove the

again,

stitches,

Having fastened

tasting,

making

row of

first

on the right

the second

row

l)aek stitch

and

just below

the thread secure-

trim the seam one-eighth from to the

below the

a

making them

and turn the seam

stitching it

1

scam with

side of

so tliat the

wrong

and sew

side

stitches far

raw edge

enough

will not

show

side.

For the second seam baste the

tAvo bias edges to-

EXERCISES getlier

making

HAND SEWING,

IN

47

the line of the basting one-fourth of an

inch from the edge.

Sew

half the seam jnst below the

basting with the backstitch using a half backstitch for

This stitch

the last half of the seam.

'

French

Seaji

/

I

ii /^

'

is

similar to

///-/'

Model XVIII and Half Back-stitched

— Cack-stitched

Sea.m.

the back stitch, the difference being that the needle

put only halfway back in the preceding leaving a space between the stitches.

stitch,

is

thus

This stitch

is

EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.

48

used for sewing' on gathers. casting the

Finish the seam by over-

raw edges beginning

the stitches loosely through

at the left

and taking

and over the edges.

To

niahe the stitches uniform the distance between them

and

tlie

depth should he the same.

MODEL fellp:i) seam,

To

Object:

XIX.

hemmed

learn the

seam.

method of making

felled

and hemmed seams. Exercises :

Sewing a seam and hemming.

Materials:

Lone- cloth or anv soft bleached mus-

]iu cut

into three pieces, 3 by

inches.

The

pieces each

6 inches

and 5^ by 6

latter should be folded so as to cnt

2| by

3:j inches.

]^eedle ^o.

two

9, thread,

white, 'No. 90.

Baste the straight side of one of the 2^ by

3:^

making

the line of basting one-

fourth of an inch from the edge.

Just below the bast-

pieces to the 3

by 6

piece,

ing sew the seam using a backstitch and several running stitches.

Fasten the thread securely,

the edge toward t

rimmed

you one-eighth of an inch fold the un-

side over the cut side

the material,

hemmed by

making

and baste

a flat seam.

down on

It should then be

this

seam

is

by machine, for on

usually a bias seam and

laundered the hand sewing will be than

it

hand, even though in the garment making

the first stitching should be done

garment

and trimming

machine hemming.

less liable to

This seam

is

more

a

when break easily

EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.

50

laiiiulered than the

ter for

French seam and

is,

therefore, bet-

most nndergarments.

MODKL XIX Felled

Seaji.

Hemmed

Seam.

In making the hemmed seam, place the bias edge of the third piece overlapping the bias edge of the other one-fonrth of an inch

Then

crease an^l

A

hem

k]iot slionld

and baste throngh the

center.

alike dh l)0th sides.

be nsi'd in these seams and finished

EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. ])y

fastening •with

two

small

stitches

51

one over the

other.

In the backstitching the the

stitches should all be of

same length and when finished the

stitching should

look like machine sewins; on the ri^ht side.

MODEL XX. OVERHANDIXG. Object:

To

Exercises:

learn overbanding.

Overhandino;, hemming' and sewing on

lace.

Materials:

McpDKI.

XX

Long

cloth, or

OVERHANDING.

any

soft bleached nii:s-

EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. ]iii,

cut in two pieces each o

vedge on one

!^[eedle

side.

by

with the

7 inches,

No.

0,

53

sel-

thread No. 90, lace

9 inches.

Baste the selvedge edges together one-eighth of

an inch from the edge, nsing the one-eighth by one-

Beginning

fonrth basting.

at the right,

overhand the

If the stitches are taken too deep

two edges together.

when

the

They should not be made

too

long stitches will appear on the right side

seam

opened ont

is

close together or

Make

formed.

a

flat.

drawn

too tight or

hem an

a ridge will be

eighth of an inch wide on the

two long sides of the model and an inch hem across one end. wide.

Hem

the ends of lace one-eighth of an inch

Find the middk' of the

middle of the model. edge of the model.

lace

and pin

Pin the end of the

it

to the

lace to the

Quarter both lace and model and

pin those points together. until the divisions have

Continue in the same way

become

(piite

holding the lace toward you, overhand the needle through eacli

mesh

in the

small. it

Then,

on, putting

educ of tbe

lace.

MODEL

XXI.

FACED AND EXTENSION HEMS. Object:

To

learn tho method of

making faced and

extension hems.

iA

Model XXI Faced and Extension Hems.

lin,

6

Exercises:

Turning hem and hemming.

Materials:

Long

cloth or very soft Ideached

cut into three pieces, two of

by

2 inches; needle

No.

0,

them

6

l)y 4,

mus-

the other

thread No. 90, wliite.

EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.

55

Place the long edge of the two 6 by 4 pieces getlier, baste

a backstitch.

and sew, nsing two running

to-

and

Scav the smaller piece on the opposite side

for a faced

hem and

press the

turn easily.

Make

hem an

a

seam open,

to

make

it

eighth of an inch wide

on the two long sides of the model.

hem

stitches

For

the extension

fold over the edge of the larger piece one-eighth

of an inch and baste

it

on

a

line with the

For the faced hem turn

hem.

a

seam and

fold on the edge of

the small piece one-eighth of an inch wide and fold the piece over on the center piece, turning

seam

;

baste and

hem

it

down.

it

on the

MODEL

XXII.

MODEL TOWEL. Object

To

:

teach double hemstitching and sew-

ing on of tapes.

Exercises:

Hemming and

Materials:

Crash. 4^ by 8 inches, needle No.

hemstitching.

thread 'Xo. 80 (white), linen tape size 'No.

One and

is

the correct

number

Then turn

hem

hem on

a

even with the

first

to

be drawn

six

in all

Before hemstitching the

materials to be hemstitched.

ends of the towel,

1.

from the ends draw

one-half inches

threads which

8,

the sides with a narrow hem.

the ends of the towel, basting

it

thread drawn.

Fasten the thread

hem

at the left side

and

pointing the needle towards yon, take up fonr or

five

of the cross threads.

in the

Draw

the needle through and

take one stitch, as in ordinary hemming, being careful

not to take the stitch too deep.

hem

is

completed.

Repeat

this, until the

Since both edges of the drawn

threads are to be hemstitched, repeat the operation on the other side.

Fold the tape and overhand the sides together from llie

ends,

np

to the de])th

of the hem.

EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.

Sew cing

it

the tape on the

so that the

wrong

raw edges

57

side of the towel, pla-

Avill

be towards the end,

.vMi»«-.-vv\\v\\\v».«nv\vuv\\\\vuv.\ut\u«t»mu\nmHuu"«

.%\jvv:jc*

L».' .>.».'.'

'^i^iVtV-'A?*

nModel XXII

and

stitch it on.

'I'hen

Towel.

tnrning the tape back so as

to

EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.

S3

cover will

tlie

stitching,

make

A hand.

flat

it

hem

it

down on each

strong and not easily pulled

The ends

tape

is

off.

of the tape should be turned under

A

row of back stitching made

across the tape, one-eighth of an inch

make

Tliis

loop should be sewed on a jacket or skirt

and hemmed down.

will

side.

the tape

more durable.

best for dresses.

A

from the ends, woolen or

silk

MODEL

XXIII.

ROLLED AND HEMSTITCHED HEMS. To

Object:

learii

hemstitched hems,

jind

method of making

the

gathering and

rolled

putting on

a

ruffle.

Exercises:

Ilemminii,',

hcmstitchinii",

ffatherinff

and baekstitehing.

Materiah: lin

9

6

by 7

by li

inches.

inches.

The

is

terial

lietween

hand,

lienniiing

any

ruffle,

soft bleached

the

same material

model are finished with

made by the as

forefinger and thund) rolled,

using the plain

five-eighths of an iucli,

from the edge and draw a rolled

manv

and crease

making

the

up

five-eighths of

an inch

six threads for a hemstitched

hem on

then baste and hemstitch take as

hemming

below the basting.

the ruffle, measure

^lakc

the left

of

Baste a tuck three-sixteenths of an inch

line of stitches just

hem.

a rolled

of the ma-

rolling the edge

wide, and back stitch on the right side,

For

mus-

Xeedle Xo. 10, thread No. 100.

Measure up

for a tuck.

cloth or

For the

sides of this

hem, which

stitch.

Long

tlie

small runniuii'

the two ends of the

hem.

To gather

stitclics

the

ruffle, ruffle,

on the needle

at a

EXERCISES

60

time ns possible. needle,

:n:(l

J

)raw the

them

liold

HAND SEWING.

IN

in

stitelies

])hiee

bv

toiietlier

on the

Avindinii' the tliread

''-

i Model XXIII Rolled and Hemstitched Hems.

over and niider the eye and

hold left

tlie

iialhei-s

])(»int

hand, and with the other

Unwind

of the needle.

Then

l)etween the tluimb and hnger of the })nll

each gather in place.

the tliread, and pull the needle through.

tinne in the same

manner

All garments slionld fore ])ntting on the

until the rnffle l)e

rntHiini'.

is

Con-

gathered.

divided into fourths, beIf the

rntHe

is

also di-

EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. vicleJ site

ill

each

In

till'

snuu'

otluM',

way and

tlic

61

divisions placed oppo-

the fullness will be evenly divided.

bastini;- a

rnlHe on a i;arnient, always hold the

fullness t(nvards you, then sew on the line of "'athcrs

with a half hack-stitch. the tuck

down over

Ivnffles ])ut

iceable

it,

on with

Turn

the

seam up, and haste

then backstitch. tie,'

tnck are

much more

and lar.ndry better than those with the

braid or facinii.

serv-

finishiug;

.M(lI>KL

XXIV— rilKXCII

liEM.S.

MODEL

XXIV.

ERE^s^CH HEM. Object:

To

learn the

method of

lieiiiniiiig

tabic

damask. Exercise : Overhanding. Materials:

Damask

5^ Ly 6 inches; needle No.

0,

thread l^o. 80 (white).

Fold a hem on two adjoining sides of the damask,

from one-eighth

to three-sixteenths of

an inch wide,

cording to the qnalitj of the linen.

ning to

hem open

ont the hem, and fold the corner

wards yon, creasing of the point off the

it

corner on the crease, then fold the

tow^ard yon, fold the

make

it

to-

one-eighth of an inch ontside

where the creases of the hems meet.

right of the bias edge.

so as to

ac-

Before begin-

hem

Cut at the

Then, holding the wrong side

hem back and

even with the hem.

crease the material

Overhand

the fold-

ed edges together, being carefnl not to take the stitches too deep into the cloth, tlins preventing long stitches

on the right

side.

and fold nnder the down.

Turn 1)ias

the

hem on

the second side

edge on the corner and

Continue in the same way

maining hems on the model.

to

hem

overhand the

it

re-

MODEL

XXV.

MEMS ON WOOI.KX .MATERIALS AND COR^Tp^KED To loam

Object:

stitch hcniiuinii-,

Exercises:

1

daniiiii;'

Alhati'oss

inches.

Spool silk letter

^'D/' the

same shade

and

"A" ami

stitch.

twist

letter

10

JXeedles, Nos.

inch

l'(dd.

To mak(>

a

needle

(d'

tliron<:li

the nio(h'l

one-eiirhth on<'

hem

it,

hem

the stitehes slionld

To do

is

(d'

inch

an

up one-jniirth of an inch

The hem on

the

sli])

the

material

haslini!,

it

as

take up
il

in not-

the opposite

hem, winch

stileli

inch and haste

wide,

up

this take

the mateiaal and hel'oi'e drawinii,'

taki'

folding o\-er

hem

;i

inch to

hem one

ednc df ihe hem hnt

show.

the threads liiihtlv.

tirst

an

(d'

told

('nntinue in this manner, heini^ eai'elnl

the fold,

draw

(d'

th(>

hlind

he taken so tliev Would not

one or two threads

I'oui'tli

down, then

ii

with', hastina; not onlv

also the

hv

spnol

as the material.

side and haste

riiilit

end

and the hiop

S.

ihe

l(.

slip

Henrietta 41 hy S

oi-

Fold over the material one

the

the

to inriid a tear.

Iciiiniiiiii',

Blue

Materials:

iuid

liciiiiiiiiii;'

l)liii(l

and liow

TIIREE-

DARK

is

maile

the wroni;' side

to

down, then turn Inr

idolli

a

hiimi

hem;

a

to

then one of the

EXERCISES

IN

fold a little rartlicr ahead,

HAND SEWING. llicii

of

clolh, dr.

tlic

the stitches in line with the tliread of (tf

st(>a(l

diagonally.

This hem

iMui.i;i.

KKMS MN

terials

\,\v

is

stitelies

arc not

th(^

k'ccp

material

used on woolen

iii-

nia-

-

Wool. ion MATKItlAI.S AND TlIKIOK

where the

65

In

Colt.N

lOltKTl

I)AltN.

show on the

rii^lit

It is often nsed in hcmmiiiii,' silk or velvet.

side.

Finish the two sides of the model with the loop stiteh.

EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.

66

In the center of the model cut an opening one and one-fourth inches each way, brinijino; the two cuts at right angles to each other.

First

draw

corners together, tlien holding the

tlie

edges iirndv run them together (see corner and top of illustration), using the

Avai'])

(if

the

same material

as

that being darned.

After drawing the edges of the tear together begin at the

bottom

to darn.

med, but weave the fold

down

Ragged edges should not be trimand under

stitches over

so as to

each torn thread, being careful not to

draw

the thread very tight, and thus cause the darn to be-

come puckered.

wrong

side

and

When if

it

is

finished press the darn on the

well done

it

can scarcely be

noticed.

Great care should be taken

to

have the needle and

thread used for darning proportioned to the thickness of the material to be darned.

Always darn on

side of the material, and if possible use the

material

beini>'

darned.

the right

warp

of tlie

MODEL

XXVI.

GATHEEING AND GAUGING AND PUTTING ON A BAND. To

Object:

learn the method of gathering, gaug-

ing and putting on a band.

Hemming,

Exercises:

gathering,

gauging,

half

backstitching and overhanding.

Materials: lin,

Long

cloth or

any

soft

bleached mus-

cut in three pieces, the large piece being 5^ by 5^

inches and the bands 2| by 1^ inches and 1^ by inches.

Needles Nos. 8 and 0; thread No. 90 (white).

Hem

the two long sides of the model with a very

narrow hem

;

Fold over the ends

then gather one end.

Pin the gathered

of the band one-eighth of an inch.

end of the model

to the

band and draw up the gathering

thread so that both will be the same width. half backstitch the gathers in place side

hem the

down over

of the band it

down on

;

Baste and

fold the opposite

the gathers,

the line of stitching.

baste

and

The ends

of

band should be overhanded.

The other end two

l;f

roAvs

of the

model

of stitches one-eiglith

is

l)y

gauged by making one-eighth of an

inch and one-sixteenth of an inch apart, the stitches of the second row beins; exactlv beloAv those of the

first.

EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.

68

The edo-e.

first

row should be one-fourth of an inch from the

Put

in the second

row of

Model

stitches before

draw-

XXVI—

Gathering and Gauging and Putting on a Band.

iug Up to

fit

the baud,

which

niaunor as for the gathering.

is

put on in the same

MODEL XXVII GUSSETS. Object:

To

learn

put

lio^v to

a gusset in

an open-

ing.

lin,

Exercises:

Hemming and

overhanding.

Materials :

Long

any

cloth or

soft bleached

mus-

cut in three pieces, the large one being 6^ by 6

the gussets being 2 by

inches,

2

inches,

14-

by 1^

inches.

Fold the large piece lengthwise into three equal parts, cutting the openings

Hem

inches in length.

on the fold two and one-half

the openings with

hems

one-

eighth of an inch wide at the top, graduating them so that at the

the

hems

end where the gussets are

will be as fine as a rolled

to

be inserted

hem.

Crease each side of the smaller square one-eighth of an inch and fold so as to baste.

Beginning

form

at the point,

a half square

and

overhand both sides of

the gusset in the opening.

This gusset

seams of night

is

used for finishing the under arm

shirts.

For the other

gusset,

crease

two adjoining sides of the larger square one-eighth of an inch.

Insert the folded corner in the opening, and

EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.

70

overhand both sides of the gusset halfway up. gusset over to the

wrong

side

and

crease.

Fold the

Hold

in

place with the needle or a few basting stitches, so that the middle falls over the point of the gTisset, and cut off the

point of the square rounding.

MODIOI,

XX VI

I

Turn under

the

(iU.SSETS.

edge and baste to the material, stitching the gusset so that is

it

will

smoothly.

Hem

it

down.

This gusset

used in the drawers placket.

The on

fit

all

]nodel should be finished with a narrow

four sides.

hem

MODEL

XXVIII.

SKIKT PLACKETS. Object:

lin,

To

how

learn

Exercises:

Hemming

Materials:

Long

make

to

plackets in skirts.

and backstitching.

cloth or

any

soft bleached

mns-

cnt in three pieces, the large one being 5^ by 6

and

inches,

inches

l)y

.the placket

facing f by 2^ inches, and Ij

Xeedle Xo.

2^ inches.

0,

thread

]N^o.

90.

For the hemmed placket cnt an opening one-third of the "vvidth of the material

from the edge and two and

one-fonrth inches in length.

On

the left side

make

a

hem

The hem on

an inch wide.

the

that

is

other

one-half of of the

side

placket shonld be tnrned to the right side of the model, or garment, and shonld be one-eighth of an inch wide.

Place the wide

hem

over the narrow one, and finish at

the bottom with two row^s of backstitching, one-eighth of an inch a])art.

hem

If the narrow

is

tnrned

raw edge

at the

placket

nsed on cotton garments.

is

bottom of the placket

The remaining

placket

and one-fonrth inch piece

seam

to the

to the right side, the

wrong

side

is

is

avoided.

made by sewing

to the

This

the one

opening, bringing the

and folding the piece over and

EXERCISES

72

hemming

it

an extension

down on

hem

HAND SEWING.

IN

the line of stitching, thus

for the under portion.

sew the f by 2^ inch piece

Model XXVIII

to the

making

For the upper,

edoe of the opening.

Skirt Plackets.

with the seam on the right side, fold Ijaek on the line of stitching, turn

under the edges and hem down.

Finish the placket by

hemming

the right.

The model should be

hem on

four sides.

all

the left side under

finished with a narrow

MODEL

XXIX.

SLEEVE PLACKET.

^

To

Object:

how

learn

put the placket in

to

a

shirt or shirt waist sleeve.

Exercises:

Hemming and

backstitching.

X'

Model XXIX

Materials: lin.

Long

Cut in three

cloth or

Placket.

any

jueces, the large

inches, the other, 1|

No. 90.

Sleeve

by

2-J

inches.

soft bleached

mns-

one being 5^ by 6

Needle No.

9,

thread

EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.

74

parts,

and on

the fold cut an opening for the sleeve placket.

Finish

Fold the material into two equal

the opening with a

For the upper,

narrow extension for the under

stitch the short side of the

X

side.

piece to

the opening Avith the seam on the right side, crease open the

seam and fold the piece over

so that

the pointed

part wdll he on the right side of the model or sleeve.

Fold under the edges and backstitch

it

to the material,

keeping the line of stitching close to the edge.

Finish

the placket with two rows of backstitching about one

inch below the point, the roAvs being one-sixteenth of an

inch apart.

Finish the model with a narrow sides.

hem on

all

four

MODEL XXX. ILITEKED COKNER. Object: (;orner

To

learn the

and decorative

Exercises:

method

of

making

a mitered

stitches.

Catstitched hem, chain stitch, French

knots and loop stitch.

Materials:

Gray

flannel,

white silk, lio. A, spool 1) twist

10 and

by 7 inches.

7 (

white),

Spool

l^eedles ]^os.

8.

Cnt

a piece of flannel 7 inches sqnare

opposite corners together,

making

a

and fold the

and cnt on the

trne bias of one side.

fold,

Fold and baste

a

thns

hem

three-fonrths of an inch wide, on the two adjoiningstraight sides, mitering the corner.

That

is,

after creas-

ing the hems, open them ont and cnt off the corner oneeighth of an inch outside of the point where the creases of the

hem

meet.

Then

fold the

catstitch the bias corner

hems

and the hem.

catstitch flannel hems, without turning

thus avoiding the ridge

again, baste

made by

It

is

and

best to

under the edges,

the fold.

Finish the

bias edge with the loop stitch, and chain stitch along

the

hem on Make

the right side. a roAV of

French knots half an inch above

EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.

76

the loop stitch.

To make them, draw

the needle and

thread through to the right side of the flannel, and take

one short stitch without drawing the needle through.

Then taking

the two threads at the eye of the needle

bring them around from right to

Model

more

stitches

sired.

Draw

XXX

casting one or

left,

Miteeed Corner.

on the needle according

to

the size de-

the needle through, holding the stitches

firmly with the

thumb

of the left hand.

Put the needle

hack through the material at the same point at which it

was brought up.

Several knots can be

fastening the threads.

made without

MODEL

XXXI.

MATCHING OF Object:

To

Exercises:

STEIPES.

teach the matching of stripes.

Overhanding and overcasting.

Model XXXI— Matching of Stripes.

Materials:

Blue and white striped gingham.

Cnt

EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.

78

in 5 pieces,

by

2.J

two of them being 2 5 by C inches, one

inches, the other

bias thns

2|-

2^ by 4| folded and cut on a true

making two

Xeedle ^o. 10; thread

pieces.

(Avhite) 100.

To match

stripes

on

a

bias.

Fold over the two

bias edges one-fonrth of an inch, baste so

as

to

match the

stripes

them together

and overhand the folded

edges.

To match

stripes crosswise.

end of one of the bias

Fold over the straight

pieces, also

one end of the 2^

by 2^ pieces and baste the folded edges together, matching the

actly

To match

Overhand

stripes.

the stripes lengthwise.

this

seam

ex-

also.

Fold over each

side of the piece already joined, also one side of each of

the 2^ by G inch pieces.

of the

first piece,

hand the seam.

Baste one of these to each side

exactly matching the stripes and over-

Overcast

all

of the seams and around

the edge of the completed model.

MODEL XXXIL OVEEHAND PATCH. To

Object: Exercises

teach

how

to set in a patch.

Overhanding and overcasting.

:

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il!m,l:tl:ltlllfiSiitMf ;M(iL>EL

Materials:

XXXII

OVEKHAND PATCH.

Bhie and

wliite

even checked ging-

EXERCISES

8U

ham, cut in two Needle No. 10

For

;

IN

pieces,

HAND SEWING.

6x6 inches, and 5x5 inches.

thread (white) No. 100.

setting in a patch, the patch shonhl be cut

one-lialf inch

larger than the hole,

square or oblong.

which should be

Cut the corners of the hole diag-

onally one-eighth of an inch.

Crease one edge of the

patch and the side of the hole where

it is

to be joined.

Place the right sides together, having the folded edges

even and the checks exactly matched.

hand that side of the patch.

Baste and over-

Remove

the basting,

crease and overhand the remaining side in the

same

way. Overcast both sides of the seam and also around the edge of the model.

MODEL HEMMED Object:

To

XXXIII. PATCH.

teach the method of putting on

a

patch. I ill Pli i imiH

1 1i I i I

Model XXXIII

*T*I*1 Pi Pil i'^''i '^i r*

Hemmed Patch.

Exercises:

Hemming and

Materials:

Pink and white

overcasting.

striped gingham, cut

EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.

82

iu

two pieces Gx6 inches and 5x5 inches.

No. 10.

Thread (white)

In making

Xeedles

l^o. 100.

a lieninicd patch, cut the

patch one inch

larger than the hole.

The of

an.

baste

corners shonhl be cnt diagonally one-eighth

inch.

Place the patch on the wrong side and

through the center where the two edges

lap.

Fold nnder the right side one-eighth of an inch and hem.

Tnrn under

and hem.

the edge of the patch the same

Overcast the model

This patch

is

nsed where

are to be seen, as a sheet,

etc.

all

around the

lioth sides of a

patclies.

sides.

garment,

If there are checks or

figures in the material they should exactly

any of the

way

match in

MODEL

XXXIV.

FLANNEL SEAMS. To

Object:

and how

teach

of

them 2^x8

A,

tw^ist

and the feather

White

flannel

flannel.

overcasting,

2^x8

the

stitch.

flannel cut in three pieces,

inches, the other

inches.

two

Binding

Needles, Nos. 8 and 10; thread (white

ribbon, 8 inch. silk)

make scams on

Seaming, hemming,

catstitch, loop stitch,

Materials:

to

hems and raw edges on

to finish

Exercises:

how

D.

In making the flannel seams baste the 2;jx8 pieces each side of the 20x8 inch pieces, making the seams three-sixteenths of an inch wide.

Sew

the seams with

the silk thread using a back stitch and two runningstitches.

which

is

Press the seams open.

The Dorothy seam,

used on flannels for infants,

is

made bv

ing a seam with narrow ribbon or silk tape.

down on each

side

cover-

Baste

it

and hem.

Finish the other seam with a row of catchstitching

through the middle, using the twist. edges of the seam wdth the silk thread.

Overcast the

Finish around

three sides of the model with the loop stitch, turning the corners nicely.

On

the unfinisbed end turn

up an

o

EXERCISES

84

inch

lieiu

to

IN

the Avroiic; side, hasting"

Model XXXIV it

down.

side.

HAND SEWING. and catstitching

Flannel Seams.

Feather stitch across the

hem on

the right

MODEL XXXV. BUTTON HOLES. Object:

lin,

To

teach liow

to

make button

holes.

Exercises:

Overhaiiding and bntton-holing.

Materials:

Long

4^x5

inches.

cloth or

ISTeedles,

some

No. 10

soft bleached

thread

;

mus-

(white)

^o. 80.

Fold the muslin lengthwise, thicknesses,

so as to

make

and overhand the edges together.

the edges, baste

three

Turn

in

and overhand them together.

In making button holes, always use button hole

Overhand the edges

scissors to cut them.

closely, not

taking in any deeper than necessary to hold the threads.

Model

XXXV

Buttonholes.

Li working a button hole, always begin at the end thest

right towards the

left.

towards you, drawing the

far-

from the edge of the material, working from the

two threads

at the

Insert the needle with the point it

but half

way

through.

Take

eye of the needle, and bring them

EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.

86

around from

rig-lit

Draw

the needle.

to left, ])assing'

the needle out so that the thread

will he at right angles

knot or

from the button

on the edge.

]iurl

under the point of

In the

forming a

position, the

first

needle points towards the worker; points in the opposite direction.

hole,

in the second,

When

it

the button hole

has been worked across one side, work several stitches close together, so that the button hole wnll be

Work

the end. bar, wliieli

the

first

is

across the other side

made by drawing

and

the needle

rounding

at

with

a

finish

down through

button hole stitch taken, bringing

it

up on the

opposite side, through the last button hole stitch.

Draw

the stitch tightly, so as to bring the sides close together.

Make

four of these stitches, then, In-inging the needle

under them, work four

Draw

the needle

I)utton hole stitches

down through

the cloth close to the

puid of the last stitch, and fasten on the

In working a button hole,

if

wrong

side, close beside the last stitch.

needle up through the last purl.

essary.

side.

and fasten the thread

Fasten the new thread on the wrong

button hole stitch as

wrong

the thread seems too short,

pull the needle through the hole, tightly on the

on them.

if a

side,

bringing the

Proceed with the

new thread had not been

nec-

MODEL XXXVI. FASTENINGS. To

Object:

how

teach

hooks and eyes, and hoAv

to

make

to

sew on buttons and h^ops and ej'elets.

and

Exercises:

Overhaudiiii;'

Materials:

Albatross or Henrietta, 3^x5 inches;

button-holing*.

a strip of lining, l4:x44 inches;

three luittons, a large

and

lioles,

a

small one, each with four

sized one with

two holes;

Needles, Nos. 8 and 10;

and

a

medium

two hooks and eyes, No. silk, letter

1.

A, twist D.

Place the lining on the wookui nuiterial, so that one side will come

to the center of the piece,

MuDEL XXXVI it

in place.

Fastenings.

Fold over the edges ^ of an inch

and baste them down.

Place

and baste

a

hook

at the

all

around

end

so that

the curve of the neck will be even with the edge it

on firmly, taking the

stitches over

and sew

and over through

the riuiis and across the shank close to the turn.

EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.

88

Half an inch from the hook sew on an eye in the same manner, taking the

body of the

across each side of the

material bringing

it

through the rings and

stitches

Baste and overhand the

the opposite side of the cloth.

Hooks and eyes on

two edges together.

Fold over the

eye.

up under the hook and even with

a

garment that

are to be covered are sewed on in this way.

One-half inch from the eye already sewed on, place a^iother

hook and button-hole

it

The curve

on.

of the

The eye

neck should be placed even with the edge.

placed one-half inch from the hook and buTr(ni-h(»lod

around,

as

This method

illustrated.

hooks and eyes

is

all

putting on

of

used wlien they are to be used on the

is

outside of a garment, or where they will show.

A loop They

eye.

used on a garment

is

are

made by taking

to take the place of

an

six stichcs, one-fourth

of an inch in length, for a foundation on

which the

loop stitch should be closely W()rked, the twist or ])url

being drawn

edge of the loop.

to the outside

the thread, l)ring the needle close beside the last stitch

down

tlirouiili

made with The

with

a

eyelet

fasten

the material

and fasten on the wrong side

with several stitches over each other. often

To

Loojjs arc also

the button-hole stitch. is

a

I'oniid

hole inade in the uiatcrial

Overliaml the hole closely with twist,

stiletto.

the stitch being firmly

of the hole and keep

it

drawn up

to

strengthen the edge

well open and in shape.

the eyelet with the loo]) stitch

from

left to right.

Work The

fastened on the under side the same as

thread should

l)e

in button-hole

making.

MODEL

XXXVII.

STOCKINET DAKNIKG. Object:

To

Materials:

3x3 inches

;

teacb. the

Cardboard, S^xSJ inches;

hosiery.

stockinet,

darning cotton same shade as the stock-

MoDEL XXXVII inet;

darning needle, No.

same

as the

Avoof are the

method of darning

Stockinet Darning.

7.

This model

is

made

the

model on page 41, except the warp and

same

color.

EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.

90

Baste the stockinet firmly on the cavlhuard to prevent

its

being stretched or drawn ont of shape, and cnt

the hole in

line

a

Keniove the cnt

with the stitches.

loops and rnn a thread aronnd the hole about one-fonrth

of an inch

from the

Form

edge.

which should be very

close together,

darning cotton up through the loop

and down through the

stitch

warp

the

threads,

by bringing the one edge

stitch at

on the opposite edge.

of these stitches should be taken

not ravel bacdv after the darn

is

up

All

so that they will

completed, and so that

there will be no roughness on the right side of the stock-

A

inet. left

small loop of the darning cotton should be

at each

When

end

to

allow for shrinkage in washing.

the Avarped threads are all in begin at the lower

right-hand side of the hole to

taking

U]) the

next row

fill

in tlie

woof threads,

alternate threads of the warp.

In the

only those threads missed in the j^receding one

are taken up.

The woof threads should be Continue in

close together as possible.

ner until the hole

is

filled.

this

i)ut

in as

same man-

Both the warp and woof

threads should be carried at least one-quarter of an inch

beyond the hole in the stockinet,

may

be firm and not

the stockinet.

])ull

so

away from

that tlie

the dai'ning

worn edges of

MODEL DAMASK Ohjccl

:

To

Materials: floss,

Icai'ii

Ada

XXXVIII. DAK^TING.

liow to

mend

table linen.

r)x5

inches;

Damask

Darninc;.

canvas,

mercerized

olive or Xile green.

Model XXXVIII

Overcast the edges of the canvas, with of the warp.

jmtting

Then count

tlu^ ri(M>dlo

in

from

tlic tliread.-i

the edge twelve holes,

through each hole.

Find the

twclftli

EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.

92

hole

from the opposite side and put the needle down

throngh

it,

np through

the next

and

on

so

to the edge.

This will leave long stitches across the center of the square, which should be not too tightly drawn.

warp threads

stitches represent the in the

garment

to be

that

These

would be put

mended.

Continue putting in the warp threads until there are only twelve holes left at the side.

To

fill

in the

woof threads, carry the needle through

each hole in the canvas to the warp threads, then take

up two threads in the ing until the

row

is

first

row, then over two, continu-

completed, carrying the threads

through each hole in the canvas to the edge, returning in the

same manner.

In the next row there are length, one a little longer,

tw^o threads

and another

still

the

longer.

same In

weaving in the second row, take up one of the shortest threads and the one next to the longest longest until

and one of the

llie

darnino-

is

;

then over the

shortest, continuing in this w^ay

finished.

MODEL XXXIX. stocki:ntet To

Object:

Dark

Darning

teach the weave as in knitting.

Cardboard, 3^x3^ inches.

Materials: saxony.

web darning.

ISTo.

Y.

Across the top of the cardboard prick holes half an inch

On

make another row edge,

and

red

red knitting- silk or mercerized cotton.

needle,

inch apart.

Dark

a

row of

from the edge and one-eighth of an the opposite side of the cardboard of holes, the

same distance from the There should

onc-eightli oi an inch apart.

be a second row one-eighth of an inch below this one, the holes being opposite the others.

warp

threads, begin at the bottom

thread up through the

down through top.

the

first

first

To weave

and bring the

the

first

one in the row of holes at the

two threads in each hole except the

manner

at the top

and

one in the second row at the

bottom, then up through the one next to

at the top.

silk

hole of the second row, and

Then up through the second hole

down through

in the

it,

first

thus nndving

and

last ones

Continue weaving in the warp in Ihe same

until all the holes are filled.

Put

in the

up through the

first first

row of loops by bringing

the yarn

hole in the bottom row; around

EXERCISES

94

the

first

same the

HAND SEWING.

IN

two warp threads and hack down througli the

Then

hok'.

warji

U]) tlirou,i;li

threads and doM-n

Coiitiiinc in the

same nnmner

the second hole, around

through the same hole. After

across the card.

Model XXXIX

Wkk Darning.

Stockixkt

makino- the side. ]>('

h_v

'I'o

last loop the

weave

needle will he on the wrong-

in the Avarp threads the

lironght to the right

si(h'

of the card.

saxony shonld This

is

done

hringing the thread over the side of the card and up

tlii'oiigh

the first loop.

Weave

in the

woof

h\-

])ntting the needle

aronnd

EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.

95

two of the warp threads, down through the loop, up through the next one, and so on across the darning. turning, bring the needle

around the loop, this

first

up through the

first loop,

until the darning

is

If this method of darning

mending

silk

is

Continue in

finished.

carefully followed in

underwear or the knees of children's

ings, it will never be noticed filled in.

then

two Avarp threads, down through the

and around the two warp threads.

manner

In

stock-

where the piece has been

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS. When

(1)

the light come

should come from the

it

wdll not be shaded

What

(2)

from which direction should

?

If possible

work

sewing"

that the

by the right hand.

correct position in sewing?

is

The pupil should

sit

straight with the table or

and just far enough from

desk,

left, so

it

so that she can lean

against the back of the chair.

Should the work ever be pinned

(3) 'No,

cramped hands

because

it

is

to the

injurious for a child to

sit

The work should be held up

position.

knee

?

in a

in the

head need not be bent forward too

so that the

much. (4) basket

What

articles for

sewing should be in a work

?

Shears, pins, needles, tape-line, beeswax, thread,

emery, and thimble. (5) scissors

What

is

the diiference between shears and

?

If they are six inches long or over they are shears

under that (6) sors.

size

they are scissors.

Name

the diiferent kinds of shears

and

scis-

EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. Straight shears and bent shears sors

and embroidery

What

(7)

A

button-hole

scis-

scissors.

a tape

measure?

piece of tape with inches and parts of inches

marked on

it,

and

is

it

used for measuring.

Into what parts

(8) line

is

;

97

is

an inch divided on a tape-

i

Into halves, quarters, and eighths.

How many

(9)

inches in a yard?

Thirty-six.

For what

(10)

To

the

emery

ball

used

?

clean the needle.

What

(11)

A

is

is

a needle?

small piece of steel wire, pointed at one end and

having an eye (12)

at the other to receive the thread.

How many

needles in a paper?

Twenty-five.

(13)

From

How

do needles number?

1 to 12, I's being the largest

and 12's the

finest.

(14)

What

are the different kinds of needles?

Sharps, ground downs, and betweens.

(15)

W^hy

To push (16)

Of what

How

As long

thimble used?

the needle through the work easily.

Silver, gold,

(17)

is a

materials are thimbles

ahmiinum, and

made

^

celluloid.

long should a needleful of thread be?

as the arm.

EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.

98

How

(18) the S}3ool

should the thread be removed from

?

It should be cut.

breaking

it

The higher

injures the teeth, and

thread numbered?

is

number

the

How

(20)

the finer the thread.

silk thread

is

numbered by

It is

it

makes the end uneven.

How

(19)

Biting

numbered

letters,

00

?

being the

truest,

then O, A, B, C, and D.

What

(21)

is

thread

made from

is

thread

made from wool

flax called?

Linen thread.

What

(22)

called?

Yarn.

How

(2.3)

man}' pins in

a

paper?

360.

What

(24)

is

cloth?

Fabric woven from cotton, wool, linen, or

How

(25)

By side,

are fabrics

silk.

woven?

placing threads lengthwise in a loom side by

and then running in another thread crosswise

over and under the

first

ones,

from edge

to

edge and

back again. (26)

are the lengthwise threads called?

warp.

'Plic

(27

What

)

The (28)

What

are the crosswise threads

calle
?

woof.

Which

woof threads

?

are the stronger, the

warp

or the

EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. The warp

threads,

strain of having the

woof threads woven

in.

What

is

the selvedge?

is

the finished lengthwise edge which

made by

and

because they must bear the

The selvedge

(29)

is

99

the woof threads, as they are

woven back

forth.

(30)

Why should materials

the selvedge and not torn

always be cut through

?

The warp threads being

laid closer together at the

selvedge, for strength, the material

might be torn down

the side.

(31) cotton

What

some of the materials woven from

are

?

Muslin, prints, gingham. (32) It

is

What

is

wool?

a variety of hair or fleece

sheep, the Angora, Alapaca,

which

is

shorn from

and Cashmere

goats,

and

furnishes the most important material for clothing in all cold

and temperate climates.

(33)

What

made

are some of the materials

of

wool? Broadcloth, cashmere, serges, and cheviots.

(34)

What

ie

linen?

It is a thread or cloth

of flax or

(35)

made wholly from

the fibre

lint.

What

are

some of the linen materials?

Linen, lawn, damask.

(36)

What

is

silk?

It is a soft, fine thread

spun by the

silk

worm.

LofC.

EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.

100

What

(37)

are some of the silk materials?

Gros grain, grenadine, brocade,

How

(38)

satin,

and snrah.

woven?

are twilled goods

Instead of taking nji the threads regularly, as in a

nnmber

plain weave, a certain or

(lr(i])pe«l

in the

given

at

np

of threads are taken

intervals, tlins

forming

a twill, as

damask darning. In twilled goods how wonld von determine

(39)

wrong

the right from the

On

side

?

the right side the twill runs from left to right.

Are

(40)

figures always

Usually in

always.

ISTot

woven in? materials they

cotton

are printed.

(41) ]^o

;

Is felt

woven

?

made from

it is

a

fur or wool pulp, which

is

pressed.

(42)

What

Running equal

stitches

are

small basting stitches of

size.

(43)

When

Running quire

are running stitches?

are running stitches used?

stitches are used in

gr(>at strength, in

seams that do not

re-

gathering, and several rows are

used in darning and quilting. (44)

AVliat is basting,

Basting

is

and for what

sewing with large stitches

ent parts of the

work

together,

and

it

is

is it

to

used

hold differ-

also used as a

guide for the stitching. (45)

Ry two

How

?

are basting stitches fastened?

small stitches taken in the same place.

EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.

When

(40)

do we use

In a garment that

When

(47)

When (48) used

is to

we

do

101

a fine basting stitch

'.

he fitted and for h.and work.

use a crosswise basting?

joining a material to a lining.

What

a back stitching,

is

and for what

is it

%

Back

stitching

stitches are taken

is a

method of sewing by which the

backwards, the needle entering the

material adjoining the preceding stitch, and coming out so that the stitch on the under side It is used to

length of the upper.

make

a

is

twice the

seam strong

and firm and should look like machine stitching. (49)

How

does half back stitching ditfer from

back stitching?

Half back stitching except that the needle

is

is

the

same

as

put only half

back stitching,

way

back, thus

leaving a space between the stitches.

(50)

How

do overcasting and overhanding dif-

fer?

Overhanding

is

a

the stitches are taken

ing

is

a

from right

(51)

from

a

seam and

to left, Avhile overcast-

method of finishing the edges of

are taken

right

method of sewing

a

seam and

left to riglit.

What

stitches

are

worked from

left

?

Overcasting, catstitching, and loop stitch.

(52)

What

stitches are

worked tow^ards you?

Feather stitching and chain stitching. (53)

What

is a

French seam?

to

EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.

102

A

French seam

trimmed

wrong

is

is

a felled

seam

is

used in a corset

When

is a

hem

faced

ISTeatness

is

hem

How

Always

hem nsed?

a rolled

is

tliere is a

hemstitching nsed?

is

nsed for ornamenting a hem.

is

shonld the threads be drawn?

drawing one thread before beginning

finish

Six threads being the required number.

How

should the work be prepared for gathV

By marking

the middle and the quarters, to

when

the fullness ex-en

How

sewing them

o*n

it is

a

Why

band

?

be held towards you. is

a

French hem used for hemming

damask instead of the plain hem

(63)

much

make

sewed on.

should you hold your gathers when

They should

It is

?

hem nsed?

?

(02)

cnrved edge

nsed on very fine materials,

is

Hemstitching (59)

faced

most important in sewing on tape

For what

(58)

(01)

and draw-

and strength.

Where

(57)

A rolled

ering

?

coA^er

to be fitted.

What

(56)

(00)

seam nsed

nsed where

is

and the hem needs

another.

to the

often used in a night gown.

(55)

A

Where

felled

and

seam turned

side,

and stitched again.

(54)

ers,

on the right

first

close to the stitching, the

side

A

sewed

is

{

stronger.

Where

is

gauging used?

EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. Gauging

used where there

is

is

a large

103

amount

of

fullness required, as in the backs of skirts,

(64)

For what

To strengthen

a gusset intended?

is

the end of an opening.

Wh_Y does the gusset strengthen the open-

(65)

ing?

Because the top

is

a bias fold,

which

is

not easily

torn.

(66)

Where

Hemmed

are

hemmed

plackets used?

plackets are used in the straight backs of

skirts.

(67)

A

Why

is

a mitered corner used

mitered corner

is

?

used in heavy materials

to

avoid thickness.

How

(68)

A

true bias

is is

a true bias cut?

cut by folding over a corner of the

material so that the selvedge or warp threads shall run exactly with the

woof

threads.

The

fold will be a true

bias.

(69)

hemmed

Which

patch

is

the

stronger,

the

overhand or

?

The hemmed patch

is

the stronger, because there

are two rows of stitching.

(70) ing

Why

is catsti telling

used in flannel patch-

?

Because the raw edges should not be turned

in,

thus avoiding a ridge.

(71)

What

should be the length of a botton hole

?

EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.

104

A

button hole should be

long a> the button

iis

is

wide.

How

(72) ing

a button hole

is

prepared for work-

?

B}^ overhanding the edges.

At which end do you begin

(73) ton hole

work

the but-

?

Commence

(74)

at the

Whv

a bar

is

To strengthen (75)

end farthest frrmi the edge of

working from right

the material

to left.

used in finishing^

the button hole and keep

In sewing on a button, why

across the top of

So

t<:)

it

it

is a

in place.

pin placed

?

as to lengthen the stitches

between the button

and the material around whicli the thread

to

is

be

wound. (76)

To

Why

are these threads w*jund

protect the threads and

make

:'

a little space U7i-

der the button for the button hole.

(77)

An in a

What

eyelet

garment (78)

A

small round hole

is a

to receive a cord or the

is its

use?

made and worked

shank of

With what do we make an

a button.

eyelet?

stiletto.

(7J*)

When (80)

When it

is

is a

hook and eye buttondioled

'I

used on the outside of a garment.

When

It is used eve.

an eyelet and Avhat

is

is

a loop used

when space would

?

not admit of using an

EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.

What

(81)

Avoolen materials

105

thread should be used for darning

'.

The warp thread which should he used whenever possible.

How

(82)

By

should a tear be prepared for darning'?

drawing the corners together.

first

What

(83)

The running

What

(84)

darning

A

thread should be used in stockinet

?

thread as near like the material as possible.

Why

(85) ing

used in finishing the darn?

stitch is stitch.

Damask

do we use the twilled weaving in darn-

'.

Because Damask

What

(86)

is a

twilled weave.

thread would be used

in

darning

Damask ? Use

ra^'clings of table linen.

Where

(87)

is

the stockinet

mending

It is used in

web

stitch

used?

the knees of children's stock-

ings and knit underwear.

What

(88)

The aim so nicelv that

finished

When

aim

in

darning?

a tear is to repair the rent

cannot be perceived.

What

(89) is

the

darning

in it

is

shotild be

done after a darn or patch

?

a

darn or patch

is

dampened and pressed on the wa-ong

damp

cloth can be laid

it

should be

side,

or a thin

finished,

on the right side and pressed.

I

UtU li^ 1904