Kokoda Journal Shrink

Day 1 – 05/06/09 Stayed at Mum & Dad’s last night (flew up from Sydney in the afternoon) as we had to be out at the airport before 8am so didn’t want to have to do an early morning flight and also gave me the chance to have a good nights sleep before heading off. Got dropped off around 7.30am and was waiting for Chris and his crew to arrive just near the check-in counter for Air Niugini. They only other person I knew, outside of the family, of was Cam (only from descriptions from Chris) so was just waiting there and noticed 1 guy check in with gear (who turned out to be Guy) who went off somewhere and then 2 other guys (Peter & Andrew) who came across when they noticed my gear. From here the rest turned up and some confusion started with the check-in with some people having some issues and Ben already worrying about his return connections. The flight was pretty good especially for Greeney, Cam, Bernie and I who all had rows to ourselves after take off. Being on the left hand side (thanks for the tip Scot though I don’t know why you didn’t follow it) was fantastic with beautiful views of the Great Barrier Reef and Australia’s coastline. Getting off the plane we were greeted by the heat and humidity of PNG and after leaving customs we met Max (our tour guide) and Alfie (worker from Sogeri Lodge – where we were staying first night). It was straight onto the bus and off we go to Bomana War Cemetery, which is about 12kms from the airport. No more then 1 minute from the airport the look change completely from relatively nice surrounds to the mad rush of people everywhere handing off and onto of vehicles and shantytown/roadside markets. The roads where also a composite of bits of bitumen and plenty of potholes and even though it was one lane each way there were sometimes 6 lanes of traffic…to me the vehicles and people hanging off them was Nadi (Fuji) on steroids. We finally pulled up in front of a high fence (with barbed wire on top) and a guardhouse behind which stood some lush green grass…vast contrast to the surrounding area. The guard come out and let us into what we were told was Bomana War Cemetery which was established in 1942 for those Allied soldiers who died in the fighting in Papua and Bougainville and had their graves brought in by the Australian Army Graves Service from burial grounds in the areas where the fighting had taken place. The unidentified soldiers of the United Kingdom forces were all from the Royal Artillery, captured by the Japanese at the fall of Singapore; they died in captivity and were buried on the island of Bailale in the Solomons. These men were later re-buried in a temporary war cemetery at Torokina on Bougainville Island before being transferred to their permanent resting place at Port Moresby. The cemetery contains 3,819 Commonwealth burials of the Second World War, 702 of them unidentified. The PORT MORESBY MEMORIAL stands behind the cemetery and commemorates almost 750 men of the Australian Army (including Papua and New Guinea local

forces), the Australian Merchant Navy and the Royal Australian Air Force who lost their lives in the operations in Papua and who have no known graves. Chris spoke to us about the place and spoke to a couple of people who were buried there and their stories. It was an extremely peaceful and solemn place, even though there were dirty great big Rottweiler and Dobermans walking around with security guards. I find it very hard to describe this place with my simple English so I wanted to include a photo so you can see what it is.

From here we travelled to our stop for the night, Sogeri Lodge, which was about another 25km of so (luckily still on the tarred road). Once here, the lodge was a lovely little place, we met Icon’s man on the ground…and Mr Beetlenut himself, Naro. What a character this man is. It was here we got our first debrief and a more detailed run down of the ins and out of the Kokoda trek, the villages, our carriers (not porters), water, cleaning hands etc. The water and cleaning hands were going to be the big one and it was funny to see us all queuing up for bottle water and then putting our tablets in. It was great to have a nice dinner and have the chance to meet the group more, as I knew my room mate James Mac reasonable well.

Day 2 – 06/06/09 (Track Day 1) Morning came around too soon for some and the 5.45am wakeup for a 6am Breakfast with an aim of being on the road to Ower’s Corner by 7am. Breakfast, along with dinner, was delicious and very filling but I could’ve done with a longer bed as I’m not built for those little singles. Naro, whom to us seemed like the Mayor of Sogeri, turned up with his beetlenut handbag and a pair of black RMs and looked quite amusing to us. He gave us a demonstration of the bettlenut and offered a sample but all declined or said they would when we returned. For those that don’t know bettlenut is a green nut they all chew, along with crushed lime shell that they put in their mouths using a mustard twig. They then chew and spit this out like chewing tobacco and leaves their lips, mouths and teeth stained red and now we know why the roads all look like people have been walking around bleeding everywhere. We were all waiting for the truck to arrive and take us up the road and things started going backwards from here as we didn’t end up leaving until 8.30am. Once in the truck…all 13 tourist and 12 carriers plus all our gear we were a 3 tonne truck full (we had to take the truck as the roads were too boggy for the bus, as it is all dirt road from Sogeri on). So much so that 5 of the boys were hanging on the back or sides of the truck. It was a 17km drive to Ower’s Corner from the Lodge and things were going ok till the rain came and all the side were brought down so we were all enclosed inside the truck…hot, sweaty and not idea of where we were going. Not long after we started hitting some gullies and road getting muddier and finally BANG!!! we slide out of control and took out a wall…luckily none of the guys were on that corner. Just up the road we struggled up one hill and then got stuck on the next…I’m surprised we still had a gear box. Finally after about 5mins of the driving trying to get us up it was all out and still the truck wouldn’t move. It was then on the rope and pull out the 3 tonne truck…what a great warm up. All back in the truck but we got bogged again on the next hill. The decision was then made to just start walking…8kms short of our destination. Even though this was added distance I think everyone sighed with relief just to be out of that truck…was of the most interesting and stressful trucks rides I’ve had. So once we were all loaded up and standing in the rain it was off to Ower’s Corner. Once here about 2 hours later there are a couple of monuments including a 25 pounder and a large arch way to the start of the trip. Chris talked to us about this area and the gun, a few photos were taken…including how Tom (one of the carriers) could hold 4 cameras on his very wide feet and we were off and started our first descent to Goldie River. It was on the descent that I was thinking to myself that I don’t want to be the first person to fall over…thankfully this title went Swifty…I was the 2nd to hit the deck.

This was our first proper creek crossing (Boots Off), with the Goldie River being about 15-20m wide and mid thigh deep on me. It didn’t seem like much but when you’ve got your boots in one hand and 23kg backpack on the other shoulder trying to get across (and a strong current in places) and then up a muddy bank, it made the crossing interesting.

Once we were all across we stopped here for our first lunch, which consisted of Hiway hardman (biscuits), cheese, bully beef, shapes and spreads.

After lunch we had a couple of ups and downs for about an hour which brought us to our first camp site – Dump 66. This was earlier then planned as we had only covered 4kms instead of the planned 9kms. We had hoped to get to Dump 44 (over Imita Ridge and the Golden Staircase) but because of the truck incident Max called an early camp. At this camp we were able to setup our tents (I’m sharing with James – the other pairs were Scot & Greg, Cam & Geoff, Peter & Andrew, Ben & Susie, Guy & Bernie and Captain Chris on his own). It was great and refreshing to have a swim in the creek… though watching Greg slip over 3 times heading down to the creek probably made people think twice about having a bath. Add to this it was quiet cool and some mosies around we knew we were going to be in for a fun week with bathing. Around 4.30pm it started raining heavily and continued into the night. Our first on the track dinner was rice with a mix of Cabbage, Carrot and Onion…which most people added Maggie Seasoning Sauce to. It was a fairly early night for all as we new we had a big day tomorrow, as being we were not at our original planned camp site for night 1 and had 2 climbs tomorrow instead of one. Over all I’m feeling pretty good and enjoyed the day. Day’s Stats:• • •

Distance – 4kms ( plus 8km of up and down from the bogged truck) Climbing Elevation – 60ms Descent – 315m

Day 3 – 07/06/09 (Track Day 2) We were up at 5.30am, pack up camp, have breakfast, get our run down of the day and then on the road by 7.30am (only 30mins late today)…all in the rain. It was a solid 1 hour climb up from camp and then a flat section before we hit the Golden Stairs (this was were the Diggers had built steps into the side of the mountain that after some rain were determined to be more of a hindrance then help). This took us up to Imita Ridge (final point where the Aussies weren’t going to budge from on the retreat from Kokoda). The view across the valley to Ioribaiwa Ridge was phenomenal and put into perspective how much we still had to travel today. It was then downhill to where we had originally planned to camp for Day 1 at Dump 44 or Ua-Ule Creek, which was a beautiful little oasis. I had a slip in the last 10m of the descent and cut my right hand. Not the smartest thing I’ve done but it was all because I saw it as easy and just switched off. Dr Wal patched me up and we were right to go again after a little drink/snack break. The group had now split and there were 6 of us in the middle (Geoff, Scot, Cam, James, Greg and myself) and luckily we had Tom with us as we now had to navigate 10 creek crossing which some were very tricky. It was even hard at stages to follow where the track was going. Even with Tom’s help 2 of the group went in and Greeney just decided to take the safe option and plough straight through since he was already wet from his fall in one of the first crossings. Once we had completed the crossings it was back up again to 720m (with slightly wet boots and light rain falling again) to our lunch stop at Ioribaiwa Village. By this stage there was 2.5hours between when the first of the group arrived at lunch to the rear. They worst thing about this was Greg, Cam and I (we’d been dropped by James and Scot with Geoff further down behind us) stopped for a small break to only find that lunch was only another 5 mins walk from there…not happy.

After lunch it was another hard climb to the top of Ioribaiwa Ridge and because of the rain you could hear and feel the mud sucking your feet down. Even through all of this our local “Carriers” were either in barefoot, pluggers or Dunny Volleys (I’m surprised they make shoes wide enough for their feet). Very impressive. Once at the top of the ridge, and it wasn’t much space up there, was our first encounter with bunkers/trenches built by both Australian and Japanese troops. From here it was another downhill of 400m (you start to get the pattern) to our camp on Ofi Creek (which was the scene for a large battle were Australian Troops tempted starving Japanese into the creek with floating bully beef tins to then shoot dead approximately 50 soldiers in one go). Speaking to Chris about the camp sites since he was here 6 years ago and they have improved dramatically (they now include some covered buildings and pit toilets) and more numerous. Ofi Creek was a great little creek for a swim/soak of the sore/stiff body, followed by dinner and I was in the tent by 7.30pm.

Today was a very hard day for me carrying over 20kgs. I think I’m the only one (apart for the carriers) carrying this much and the guys could really tell that I was hurting especially just before lunch. On the climb I had to stop every 5 – 10 mins and do some real soul searching. I’ve worked out that if I push through for the next 2 hard days I’ll be ok as it will then be the downhill into Kokoda.

We’ll just have to hope that I have a better sleep tonight (there was some solid snoring last night thanks to Chris, James and Greg – plus sleeping on the short side of the tent and not fitting) and not as sore in the morning. I really miss the girls and it’s them plus the history of this place that got me through today. Day’s Stats:• • •

Distance – 14kms Climbing Elevation – 630m Descent – 800m

Day 4 – 08/06/09 (Track Day 3) Today was a very hard day for me. We climbed out of Ofi Creek (it was a boots off creek crossing at the very start…no log crossings here just plough straight across). It is interesting to note that each year (if not multiple times a year) the majority of bridges are washed away and have to be started from scratch. After the crossing it was straight into a 750m climb to the peak of Maguli Range. We now started to encounter things called False Peaks…but I and some of the others started referring to them as rest peaks…as the flat would allow us to catch up breath and give the legs a rest before the next climb.

We now realise that we are where the war was on as there were multiple Australian and Japanese fox holes all over the track and at the top of this first climb there was a large Japanese command bunker with gun emplacements. Lunch was at a lovely little spot, referred to as Station 88, at the bottom of what is called the Japanese Staircase (similar principle to the Golden Stairs except built by the Japanese) and for the first time we were able to buy fresh bananas from some locals. It was an earlier lunch that normal but that only place for a stop on our climb. It was then pushing on up again and finally to the peak of the range.

Even at 1350m in elevation the view were fantastic, though some of our ascent and descents we were walking through mist/fog/low cloud cover. From the peak it was all downhill (around 350m) to our lunch stop of the New Nauro Village (our first proper village on the trek). Along the trek we can see that there are a couple of “New” villages with the “Wartime” ones being abandoned due to various reasons. Nauro was a picturesque place with a bunch of locals out waiting for us as soon as we arrived as we were the 2nd group to arrive after the scouts and the Bundy Brothers. We pretty much have out walking order sorted out by now with the brothers from Bundaberg out front trying to race the scouts (n.b. one of the rules set on us is no one in front of the scouts and no one behind Max). Then it was a group of 5 of us (Cam, Scot, Greg, James and I) with either Tom or Big Kev for guidance. Next was Geoff and Bernie followed by Susie and Ben with Guy and Chris at the back. At Nauro it was our first experience with a local airfield. Uphill for landing and downhill for takeoff and the grass is all keep relatively short by the local ladies with machetes.

It was then further downhill from here into hell (30mins of mosquito invested swamps with some very dodgy creek crossings) and there in the middle of all of this was our campsite which was a lovely little place.

You wouldn’t believe how nice it was to have a sit/wash in the cool creek (not one of Scot’s favourite things the old cold water) after cleaning all the mud from our gear. I must say though that my left knee has started to give me some grief today (a lot of downhill with all the weight). We’ll just have to see how it goes tomorrow. Dinner was our good ol cabbage mix but with choco vines and powdered mash which everyone devoured. It was also our first pretty dry day, apart from some early rain and the swamp, so our normal finish to the day is everyone around the fire trying to dry socks and boots. Another big day tomorrow, around 10hours, so much so that we need to be up by 5am and on the track by 6.30am at the latest. Two more days puts us to the Kokoda Gap and then it’s pretty much downhill from there. Day’s Stats:• • •

Distance – 11.5kms Climbing Elevation – 750ms Descent – 575m

Day 5 – 09/06/09 (Track Day 4) This would have to be one of the hardest days or things that I have done in my life… both physically and mentally. The last 3 days we have had to push slightly harder then planned to catch up for the ground/time lost on day 1. Earlier start of 5am, slept better in the tent as we are now sleeping along the long side, and it was then back into the swap another 30mins. In the middle there was a large log (one very big tree had been cut down for this one) over the Brown River and then finally out of the swamp. You don’t know how good it was to have that behind us.

We were then faced with our first climb for the day called “The Wall” which physically and mentally pushed my limits. It was one hour of pure pain that had me doubting myself and ability. The majority of us stopped (or partially collapsed) at a lookout out over Nauro. We finally reached the top and as per norm it was then back down and through the Village of Menari, which we could see from the top. Once through Menari, we continued downhill to another creek crossing. From here it was another 2.5hours of hard climbing (described on the map as Very step & tiring incline) to reach the top called Brigade Hill. This was the scene of one of the biggest and well known battles of this war. It was great to listen to Chris talk about this battle and at the same time to see the sheet cliffs that Potts thought would protect him from the Japanese but didn’t.

Whilst stopped here and for something different it started raining again and continued into our next descent to Efogi 1 but not to make it too easy we had a few more sharp little climbs and descents first. Coming round a bend and with the rain and mist lifting it was one of the most amazing views so far we you could spot all the villages ahead – Kagi, Efogi 1 and Efogi 2 (including their airstrips). Like usual it was still another 30mins of ups and downs to get to the village of Efogi 1. Our original aim was to make the ascent to Efogi 2 today but we would’ve had to do this in the dark. It was great and different to have the little stop before the final descent into camp at a point about 10mins out that over looked the whole village and valley…this was something that the boys said they always do. They were very breathtaking views.

Once at the campsite, a little area set aside in the middle of the Village for trekkers, we were given the luxury of a low, long building with mattresses and pillows (very flash) – along with some cockroaches. Here, some of the guys had a couple of beers (not the coldest as ice doesn’t exist out here) but I declined and saving myself for the end. I’ve set myself a goal of not having a drink until we finish the trek. This will be my little reward at the end for completing this exhausting but monumental trek.

In all we were on the track for 10.5hours and we have been told that we have a similar day tomorrow…I’m soooo excited. I just need to get through this and then it’s the downhill/home run to Kokoda. Can’t wait to see my girls again soon but can’t believe that it is only Tuesday. Day’s Stats:• • •

Distance – 16kms Climbing Elevation – 1990m Descent – 1295m

Day 6 – 10/06/09 (Track Day 5) Finally, we’ve broken her back and have climbed over Mt Bellamy and have started our descent down to the trek’s final destination of Kokoda. I have to state here that the last two days have push me (and I’m sure others in the group) to both physical and mental limits. After a great nights sleep in our plush abode…you don’t know how fantastic it was to have those proper mattresses and pillows, it was back on the track to Efogi 2 (uphill of course). It started with a nifty little creek crossing and then on the ascent we passed a group of cute little kids in their school uniforms on the way to school. Now that was commitment, making the descent to and ascent from school each day, as this climb put a lot of us to the test. This climb took around 30mins and after it I was wishing that we had gotten it out of the way last night. Up at the top there were spectacular views of Efogi 1, Kagi, Naduli and the Ranges. It was a view that put what we’d done and still had to complete into perspective. It also gave us our first proper glimpse of Mt Bellamy, whose peak was hidden by “snow” (fog/mist) most of the time. Like after all our climbs it was back down again and then another tiring, but not the worst, ascent up to Naduli. It was here that we were given the pleasure and honour of meeting one of the very few surviving Fuzzy Wuzzy Angles and to listen to his story. It was unbelievable to listen first hand to what the FWAs had to do and got put through, cause without them we wouldn’t have won this war. It was now extremely warm and this stop allowed us the chance (which at most dry stops everyone does now) of drying our clothes and towels. I’d just like to point out that “Uncle” Cam is the big hit of all the villages with his supply of Footy Cards. N.B. For all future trekkers….take footy cards.

After this stop we were off again mid morning with the goal of reaching camp 1900 for lunch before taking on the pass at 2190 metres. Because of this hard climb and the lack of water we stopped early at a cliff edge, which I believe would’ve had breathtaking views back to Port Moresby but because of the thick cloud cover you could only see 50 metres or so. As we were still on the ascent and had to stop early there was no water supply so as were still making the ascent to this spot, Batman and Robin, had jumped in with the scouts and went back down the track about 20mins and carry water back up. There was no chance of me doing this as it would’ve broken me doing some of this climb twice in a row. It was here at the lunch stop that the rain hit us, and the Tellie Tubbies got their pastel raincoats out, and as I’m writing this at 7:55pm it is still raining. At the end of lunch, which was a very quick one for us, 9 of the 13 in the group (along with Max our guide) set a cracking pace for 30 minutes so that we could take a side trip to visit a B25 crash site, whilst the remainder of the group and the carriers continued on towards our next camp site. This pace, for some of us in places, had us nearly running. I know that Chris really enjoyed this chance to release the shackles of being at the back and doing some fast trekking. Greg and I left the site, large crater with bits of plane everywhere, before everyone else as were are the slowest climbers of this smaller group. We got back out onto the main track and onto our next ascent, which took an hour and 20 minutes, before the others. On the ascent we were gradually picked off by Batman & Robin, Ben & Susie and Wal whilst passing Guy and Geoff at various stages. I found the crossing over the top quite depressing but realistic of what happened during the war with all the rain and mud plus hills that we have had to deal with today. Greg, Wal and I finally arrived at our camp of Dump 1 just after 4pm (9 hours in total today on the road adding to the 10 from yesterday) just behind Cam and Bernie. Where, as usual, at the site of the camp I went arse over but luckily I had my pack on

as Wal, who was behind me, reckons the tree stump I landed on would’ve punctured my back. However, I did break Millie’s plate that I had brought along to use for a dinner plate. At a very cold and wet camp we split across 2 buildings (Susie, Ben, James and Chris in one with the rest of us in the other) trying to find a dry spot where we wouldn’t get water dripped on us. Everyone broke out the sleeping bags and warm clothes tonight as apart from being cold and wet, we where still above 1800 metres. Only a few of us braved the cold water for a shower with most opting out till tomorrow but we don’t really care as its only 2 more nights on the trail and we are on the downhill stretch. My body and mind are really struggling after the last 2 exhausting and punishing days but it has all been worth it for the experience. Day’s Stats:• • •

Distance – 20.5kms (including 2kms for crash site visit) Climbing Elevation – 1930m Descent – 930m

Day 7 – 11/06/09 (Track Day 6) Well last night’s sleep wasn’t as plush as the night before…it would actually have to be the worst so far of the trip. Between the rats crawling around the shack, playing toesys with Bernie as some of us we sleeping toe to toe (even slightly crossing over), the heavy rain and leaking roof it was 5 star accommodation. It also got very cool overnight, first night I didn’t wake up all the time from overheating, as we were still around 1900 metres at Dump 1. All of us were up before our 6am wakeup call in our shack and were all set to get underway, after our very wet day previously. We were trying to guess how much rain we’d had the day before and that night and we came up with around 1 to 2 inches of solid rain had fallen on us. It was straight into a creek crossing and the uphill again (something different). Today we were all on the lookout more then yesterday for both Australian and Japanese foxholes. Once over the climb it was down to Templeton’s Crossing which was were there was a large battle (a quick stop for us here) and then it was back up again. Even though these climbs aren’t as steep as the previous day’s ones I still found it extremely hard as fatigue was really taking its toll on me and setting in earlier in the day then previous. We then had a hard push onto Eora Creek for our next stop and the next major battle site on the trek. It was an amazing place and there were numerous foxholes along this ascent/descent. It was funny watching Ben run around off the track trying to find more holes and when Cam took a photo of Susie and Ben lying in two of these holes with their poles like rifles. Speaking of Ben & Susie, the walking was different today as I started at the back today, not in the 2nd group, with Cam and Chris. We had a great time talking rugby and junk. I then moved up a little bit and did the main stretch into lunch with Cam, Ben and Susie. Walking down into Eora Creek, which for years the locals wouldn’t drink from because of all the dead bodies found in it, was breathtaking. It was a beautiful, tranquil and picturesque place with a refreshing little waterfall right next to the lunch camp site. We all commented that this would be the perfect place to camp for the night. When you add in the full sunshine and warmth the campsite quickly turned into a laundry mat with all trying to dry out, as much as possible, the saturated gear from yesterday. Today’s lunch we noticed that our food supplies we starting to dwindle, but it with the volume down on previous days it was still enough for everyone (except Ben…who I believe can never be full). Leaving lunch (across another tree creek crossing which Guy, Wal and Cam have shown to be their fortes) we walked a quick 20 minutes to a point where we all dumped our packs with the carriers so that Max could take us all up a steep climb to a

Japanese artillery emplacement overlooking Eora Creek. Seeing this and the size of the cannon, it was mid blowing that the Japanese were able to move something so heavy and large over such large distances and difficult/steep terrain. At this stop Cam developed an itch so we started back down before the rest of the group. With Robin (Andrew) already gone ahead with the scouts Batman (Peter), Cam, Schooners, Wal and I started off to our night campsite at Alola (supposedly 2 hours away…wasn’t it always 2 hours). It was actually a nice up and down (there is always an up straight after the downs here) to another log creek crossing. From here, Big Kev (Wal and Greg’s carrier) told us it was another 30 – 60 minutes climb to the campsite with it being very steep towards the top. Up we went and as we all pretty much know our climbing pecking order in this smaller group I was last with Big Kev right behind me. During this climb I can tell you that it only takes one small distraction or loss of concentration and you could die on this trek. There are a lot of the time vines hanging down, some with spikes, and I got some of these caught on my hat and whilst I was attempting to free my hat and because I was standing on a wet rock my right foot slipped out from underneath me. This slip put me over the edge and down I went. If it wasn’t for me having my big pack on it would’ve been more then a couple of metres I went down…we don’t really know how far I would’ve gone but it wouldn’t have been pretty. Cam and Big Kev helped me back out, after I’d had a minute or two to gather my thoughts, and we finished the climb…which was a blur because of my adrenalin was pumping big time for a bit. Even though the whole climb only took us 25 minutes it still hurt me and used up a lot of my reserves. Alola is a beautiful place and would be more so if for the fact that we were surrounded by “Snow” as supposedly you can see down the valley to Kokoda and beyond. We are all shacked up together (except for Ben & Susie and Andrew & Peter) in a neat 4 bedroom hut with a tin room and lino floor.

I know that I wasn’t going to have any beers until Kokoda but after my little scare this afternoon I joined the guys and we had 2 each…along with some radioactive twisties. Last day on the track tomorrow and supposedly mostly downhill, though it is still another 8 to 9 hours of walking. I’m very glad for this as I don’t know if I could take another big day as the feet and knees are starting to struggle. However, this is a great group that I’m with and the comradeship has ensured that we all get through each day and has made the journey that much more enjoyable and memorable. Day’s Stats:• • •

Distance – 13kms Climbing Elevation – 405ms Descent – 1015m

Day 8 – 12/06/09 (Track Day 7) Well what a night, last night. We had some very heavy rain and wind hit us around 11pm that had water coming through the tin roof and the hut moving. It woke everyone up and had some people moving sleeping arrangements, especially in the room shared by James, Bernie and Guy. Finally everyone got back to sleep but those mysterious snorers made an appearance again much to everyone’s delight. In the morning we got up to a group of the local women haggling with Max and the guys with the idea that we’d short changed them some money. It was interesting watching all of this occur whilst we were packing up. It was all resolved and after a special Tom breakfast we were on our way. A couple of down sections saw us eventually reach Isurava, which is home to the main Kokoda Trek memorial and sight of one of the main battles. This place is like Bomana where my poor English doesn’t do it justice in an attempt to describe it. Whilst here we held our own little ceremony with the guys singing the PNG National Anthem followed by our rendition of Advance Australia Fair. Ben then played the last post on a tin horn, Susie recited the Ode and Greg the Fuzzy Wuzzy Angle Poem. During the anthem some of the guys had to stop singing to hold back the tears.

We then loaded up again and headed off down to Deniki for our lunch stop. This place, any mainly because we weren’t affected by “Snow”, had one of the best views of the trip.

Upon leaving Deniki we headed into more downhills and this was to become the norm instead of the early days of just uphills. It was during these downhills that Schooners, who I saw as one of the better on the downs – especially compared to Wal and Cam (I was in a group with Greg, Wal, Cam and James at this stage) took a cropper not once but twice. It was on this 2nd fall that Dr Wal and Nurse Cam were called upon to utilise their vast medical knowledge and supplies to fix up the patient who had picked himself up some nice puncture wounds. The first was pretty funny as it was one of slap stick moments of slipping walking on the pole and landing on the crown jewels…we all got a giggle out of this after the initial voluntary grab for our own groin. Not long after this we entered the village of Hoi and the heavens opened on us. The only relief it that it wasn’t cold rain like previous days so it wasn’t too bad standing in it. It is now 8.11pm and the rain is still around…so it’s been another one of those “dry” days. We all met at Kovelo Village to walk the last 5 kilometres in together with Guy leading the way. The track had now turned into a sort of dirt 4wd track so was some of the better paths we’d been on for days. Locals we becoming more frequent on this section going the other way and then finally we had arrived. The first building we came to was the hospital but also used as

rental accommodation for trekkers (some of us seriously had thoughts of moving into here for the night at they had beds, fridges, TVs and AC). It is amazing that things like this that we take for granted back home are such a luxury over here. Finally we reached our campsite for the night, run by an ex local police major, and everyone unloaded into the large hut except for Ben & Susie and Andrew & Peter, who opted to stay in their tents again. Once unpacked, we headed to the Kokoda Sign (actual finish of the trek) and to check out the local museum, which was unfortunately shut. After a couple of quick photos it was down to the local shop for some supplies and a couple of beers. We each put money in to get each of the carriers one each (Chris stated that this was all the were allowed on the track or the can go a bit “Crazy”). When you walk into the shop…surrounded by locals and all the “Blood” spit stains you notice that it has security fencing and grills all over it but it was run by Asians. I thought to myself…for f*cks sake…you travel to another country and instead of locals running the shop it’s another corner store run by Asians. It was here the Greg determined that 3 beers wasn’t enough for him so he and I bought another 6 pack between us. Supplied up we headed back to the camp site, no showers once again as it was dark now and a tricky trip down to the creek bed was advised against, to prep for bed and have dinner…which initially consisted of more “Radioactive” Twisties and Beers. After proper dinner, Ben pulled out the goods, which included up small Bundy Rum bottle and some Sumatran Cigars…oh how good was this! It then turned into a great night with Ben and Wal taking turns on the harmonica, Cam telling jokes and everyone else trying and all the boys having a bit of a sing along which was then over shadowed by the carriers starting up their sing-song with guitar support (which then continued all through the night till morning). Today was a mentally tough day for me as I expecting it to be flatter or no inclines and also I didn’t move as fast as normal because of my little “scare” yesterday. Tomorrow we have our plane coming to get us around 9am – 10am, so it’s not as early start but still up before 7am so that we can pack, organise all the details and go get some more photos at the Kokoda sign, try the museum and get over to the airport. We are all just looking forward to a sleep in a bed with a simple mattress and pillow and off the ground. This has really made me think of how easy we have life and how much we take for granted back home. Day’s Stats:• • •

Distance – 20.5kms Climbing Elevation – 200ms Descent – 1168m

Day 9 – 13/06/09 (Track Day 8) Well we’re back in Port Moresby (I must admit that I didn’t write this entry till the next day as the majority of us weren’t in any condition that night to function after a few too many drinks and large amounts for food). We all packed up and gave out to the guys what gear we didn’t want to take back. Also we all gave a bonus to the carriers as without their support I know we wouldn’t have gotten through this as unscathed as we did. From the campsite we headed back to the Kokoda sign for proper photos, look at the memorials and museum (but it was shut again and Max threatened them to kick the door in next time if it was locked).

Front Row:- Guy, Geoff (Greeney), Andrew (Robin), Susie & Peter (Batman) Back Row:- Chris, Cam, Scot (Wal), Bernie, Greg (Schooners), Andrew, Ben & James From there it was a 1km walk (longer then most of us thought) to the airport…and this involved walking straight up the runway to the Kokoda International Airport terminal where we all had to give it our personal weights (which I think I shocked them with 102kgs and our bag weights and again with all my food, water plus some gear I was still at 17kgs). This was to ensure that they plane could get off the ground.

It was a bit touch and go for a while if our plane was coming as there was a lot of cloud cover around…but finally it appeared and we all loaded on board. Let me tell you, our little 17 seater was a little beauty. So much so that, me being the back seat with Wal and Cam, with one bump to the door/hatch I reckon she would’ve come open and we’d all be skydiving. However, flying back after the trek is how I recommend doing this journey as you get to witness, from up high, just how far you have travelled and what the terrain is really like. At the airport we were met by Naro and our transport…which happened to be a dual cab Nissan Ute (so it was two trips to take all of us and our gear to the hotel). Now the looks that us in the 2nd group…who were all sitting in the tray, we getting was pretty funny as this group of whitefellas (and lady) were travelling around downtown Port Moresby in the back of Ute. Our accommodation, was a real treat for us after what we’d had, but being behind 3 metre high fences with razor wire and 24 hour guards on the front gate made it interesting arrival.

After showers and an initial clean of our gear, we all headed to the Yacht Club for lunch and drinks. It was an interesting trip but what was more interesting was that no indigenous people were allowed in the club (closet I’ve been to a place that has segregation).

Though great food, drinks and environment with all 13 of us enjoying a great afternoon. From here it was back to the hotel…sleep for some, cleaning gear for others or more drinks for Greg. We continued on for a great night together watching the Wallabies play Italy but at the end only Cam, James and I (as Wal and Greg were asleep in their chairs) were left. So early night really for all as we had to be back up for 4am or so for the flight home.

Day 10 – 14/06/09 I’m finally home and what an experience. So much occurred and I’m so thankful that Trace really urged me to take my pen and paper and make a journal of the trip…as I know she and a lot of people (let alone the tour group) are keen to read this story. You can’t tell how nice it is to be at your own home, shower, bed etc with your family until you go away and do something like this. Also how much we really take for granted in Australia. Plus the amount of respect of have for the men who were part of the original Kokoda track and the war…I’m take off my hat and salute these brave people. It was a bit of a rush in the morning as people struggled to get going…I know I did as mentally I wasn’t prepared for another early start even though I’d gotten 7 hours of solid sleep. Finally we were all at the airport and let tell you…pretty funny when people just pass stuff to each other around the metal detectors…great security. Also watching 8 of us try and con our way into the Qantas Lounge, especially when we weren’t booked on Qantas tickets was even funnier. However, easy flight back to Brisbane…though Ben & Susie stressed the whole way whether they would get their connecting flight to Sydney and then to Jakarta etc. I never seen people in real life run between flights…but I tagged along as I was on their Brisbane to Sydney flight and we did only have 1 hour to get through customs and to the domestic airport. We all made our flights and got home which was great though. So in total we travelled around 108kms, climbing 5.96kms and descended 6.1kms over 7 days. If I can give any tips (and this was discussed between the group a bit) if you want to do this: 1. Train for this, especially with your full pack and do some serious climbs and descent. Then back up the next day. 2. Get yourself good backpack, boots and socks. 3. Take 4 sets of socks 4. Get yourself a comfortable mattress and pillow 5. Keep your pack as light as possible 6. Don’t do it during the wet season 7. If you get a carrier take a carton of cigarettes for them. So finally I just was to say a big thank you to Chris, Max and the guys for looking after me and to Schooners, Wal, Cam, James, Guy, Bernie, Batman, Robin, Greeney, Ben & Susie for making this a remarkable, enjoyable and unforgettable experience for me.