Gambell, Saint Lawrence Island, Alaska May 24 – June 4, 2006 Trip Report by Phil Davis Davidsonville, Maryland High Lonesome BirdTours
1. Introduction. This year marked my eighth birding trip to Gambell and tenth to western Alaska. Prior to Gambell, I co-led a group to Adak for a seven-day tour (see separate report). On Gambell, I served as a birding leader for two six-day spring trip for High Lonesome BirdTours. I arrived from Anchorage, via Nome, with our first group of clients the morning of May 24. Our second group and staff departed Gambell on June 4. During this 12-day period, we shared the island with other birding groups, including Wilderness Birding Adventures [WBA] (Bob Dittrick, James Huntington); VENT (Kevin Zimmer), WINGS (Jon Dunn, Paul Lehman, Louise Zematis); a large Anchorage group led by Gordon Tans (AK), a group led by Kim Risen (MN), and several small groups of independent birders, including David DeSantee (CA), Robert and Rhonda Dowling (CO), Robert Wallace (FL), et al. 2. The Weather and the Environment. NOAA charts of weather conditions for the period 17 May (a week before our arrival) though our departure date on 4 Jun are shown below. Winds. For the most of the early part of our two weeks, the winds at Gambell generally prevailed from the west and southwest. Most of the days, winds were relatively light. The daily average wind velocity ranged from calm 2 mph to a sustained 10 mph with gusts to 20 mph. Prior to our arrival, the winds were from the west and south for several days at about 13 mph with gusts in the low 20s (mph). Temperatures. In general, the temperature was mild (for Gambell), typically in the 30s or 40s; however, occasionally the winds dropped the wind chill into the 20s. The temperature during our stay ranged from 24 – 44 degrees F. Visibility. Most of the period was The Russian Chukota Peninsula, 40 miles away, in the clear with long-range visibility. The background with King Eiders flying by. Phil Davis coast and 4,000 foot mountains of the Russian Chukota Peninsula were visible during most days during the period, except for several consecutive foggy days.
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Snow Cover. When we arrived, the snow cover was extensive. The boneyards were heavily covered and walking required caution. Large drifts were present, especially around town. Lake Ice. Troutman Lake was totally frozen upon our arrival and experienced very little thawing around the edges during the two-week period. South Lake was mostly frozen when we arrived, but some areas began to open more in the middle during the second week.
NOAA Gambell Weather Data: 17 May – 4 Jun. Bering Sea Pack Ice. Ice was present during our entire visit. The westerly winds kept the western beach packed most of the time. The north beach was packed in for most of the time or opened up near the beach with ice a bit further out. The ice conditions changed almost every few hours, as the ice was blown by the wind and pushed around by the currents. Due all of the ice present (reported by some locals as being the most they had ever seen in June), the classic Gambell seawatch was not typical this year especially earlier during our stay. Seabirds were not flying over the packed ice; they either were not flying, were late passing, or stayed further out, perhaps where the water was clearer. As an example, loons did not start flying in any numbers until near the end of our stay. The winter of 2005-2006 was apparently a remarkable year for the amount of ice in the Bering Sea; the ice pack pushed down to the Pribilof Islands. (Check Season 2 of the Discovery Channel series, The Deadliest Catch, a documentary/reality series on the 2005 Bering Sea crabbing season. Perhaps the ice coverage this year drove seabirds further south or in difference directions?)
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3. Staff and Clients. Our Gambell-1 tour included ten clients and our Gambell-2 tour included three clients. Our leaders were: Dave MacKay (Sonora, Mexico) for Gambell 1; Phil Davis (Davidsonville, Maryland) for Gambell 1 and 2; and chef, Jennifer MacKay (Sonora, Mexico) for Gambell 1 and 2. 4. Arrivals and Departures. All arrivals and departures were on-time this year. 5. The Birding. General. Early during our stay, the winds at Gambell were light and from the southwest and west with periods of fog that kept planes from arriving for almost two days during the first week. Shorebirds were the focal point during the early days; also during this early period the far and circular boneyards did not produce anything of note, except a few Hoary Redpolls. When we arrived on 24 May a number of excellent Asian vagrants were already present, including a Black-tailed Godwit, a Long-toed Stint, Wood Sandpipers, a Stonechat, and a Brambling. Other good Asian vagrant species that were seen during our stay included Little Stint, Sky Lark, Common Greenshank, Gray-tailed Tattler, Ruff, and Eyebrowed Thrush. Western Alaskan specialties seen included Dovekie (a Gambell specialty for the Bering Sea), Arctic Loon, Yellow-billed Loon, Emperor Goose, Black Guillemot, Ivory Gull, Slaty-backed Gulls, Steller’s Eider, Bar-tailed Godwit, Common Ringed Plover, Red-necked Stint, Rock Sandpiper, Bluethroat, Eastern Yellow Wagtail, White Wagtail, Red-throated Pipit, and Hoary Redpoll. I recorded a total of 89 species during my 12 days on the island. Birding Areas. The birding areas we covered on the island included the following: the “near boneyard”, the “far boneyard”, the “circular boneyard”, Northwest Point (aka, “sea watch”), the cliffs, the north and west beaches, the boat yard, the walrus “pull out area”, “old town”, the “near marsh”, Troutman Lake, the hillsides above and below the lake road, the hillside between the far bone yard and the cliffs, the “far marsh”, the runway road, the south end of Troutman Lake (including the ponds, and grassy areas), the gravel ponds, the berms, South Lake, the tundra east of South Lake, and the rocky outcroppings at the beach at the south end of South lake (Oonyik Point). Trip List. A daily trip list of species seen is provided as a separate document.
6. Notable Species. Accounts of notable Asian, western Alaskan, Alaska mainland, and Saint Lawrence Island species are presented, below. Greater White-fronted Goose. One was seen as a flyby on 25 May. Emperor Goose. This species was seen in small numbers at seawatch, mostly during our second week.
Emperor Geese at seawatch. Phil Davis. Page 3 of 10
(“Black”) Brant. This species was also seen in small numbers this year. Tundra Swan. Single birds were seen at seawatch on 25 May and 3 Jun. Mallard. Uncommon at Gambell, a male was seen on three days during our second tour (30 May, 1 and 3 Jun) at South Lake and also at the far (south) marsh. Northern Shoveler. Also uncommon, a pair was seen at South Lake on 27 May. Northern Pintail. Seen commonly at the near marsh, far marsh, on South Lake, and even from seawatch Green-winged Teal. Several American Green-winged Teal (A. c. carolinensis) were observed at several locations. Greater Scaup. A pair was observed on the South Lake on 1 Jun. Steller’s Eider. This species was seen this year only in small numbers. A few were seen on 24 May. On 4 Jun a flock of five birds was seen from seawatch and then was relocated several times on the water off of both the west and north beaches over the next few days. [Spectacled Eider]. This species was seen by others during this period but not by our group. Seeing them is basically a function of the time invested in seawatching vs. chasing other rare land birds. King Eider. This species was seen regularly and in large numbers at seawatch during the period.
King Eider flock at seawatch. Phil Davis.
Common Eider. Flocks of Common Eiders were seen most days throughout the period. Harlequin Duck. This species was seen on a majority of the days, but in smaller numbers than previous years. White-winged Scoter. We saw a small flock of three birds from the seawatch on 28 May and 3 Jun.
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Long-tailed Duck. Common and in large numbers. Red-breasted Merganser. Seen in small numbers only on two days at South Lake and at seawatch. Loons (general): Loon species passed the point in relatively small numbers this year, likely dur to the icy conditions, with most numbers during the last few days. Red-throated Loon. Only two were observed this year. Arctic Loon. Our first Arctic Loon was seen on 5/26. Several more birds were seen by our group on 2-3 Jun. Yellow-billed Loon. Numbers were very low this year, certainly due to the ice. Our first was on 29 May and a couple more were seen on 2-3 Jun. Northern Fulmars. This species was common at seawatch daily. Red-faced Cormorant. Discussed in a separate report from 2 Jun. Pelagic Cormorant. Present daily. Rough-legged Hawk. Single light-phase birds were seen on 25 May and 2 Jun. Both were seen from seawatch, heading toward Russia. Yellow-billed Loon at seawatch (dorsal view!). Phil Davis.
Sandhill Crane. Flocks of Sandhill Cranes were seen on a majority most days either as fly-bys at the point or over Troutman Lake.
Pacific Golden Plover. We found this species next to South Lake in small flocks of up to four birds on four separate days. Lesser Sand Plover. The WBA group found a cooperative bird on 28 May on the hillside, north of the far boneyard. Common Ringed Plover. We saw our first bird, south of Troutman Lake, on 1 Jun, with another the next day at the near marsh. Semipalmated Plover. This species was seen most days at various locations. Common Greenshank. VENT found a single bird on 31 May and it remained in the area through 2 Jun. It was seen mostly in the near marsh, but we also found it south of Troutman Lake on 1 Jun.
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Wood Sandpiper. There were three birds in the near marsh when we arrived on 24 May. Birds were seen daily through 30 May, and then one bird was seen on 2 Jun. Gray-tailed Tattler. A single bird was found by others at the south end of Troutman Lake on 1 Jun. We also relocated the bird in the same area on 3 Jun. Whimbrel. Local birder, Gerald Koonooka, found a bird of the Eurasian subspecies, variegatus, on 31 May at the base of the mountain, between the far boneyard and the cliffs. Black-tailed Godwit. We first found an adult male at the “near marsh” when we arrived on 24 May. This bird apparently was seen by local birder, Gerald Koonooka on 22 May. It remained in the area through 28 May. See separate report and image (attached). Bar-tailed Godwit. One bird was seen briefly on 25 May at the South Lake. Black Turnstone. For some reason, of reports of Black-tailed Turnstones at Gambell are questioned; although we have had good looks at them during previous years. This year, on 30 May, a bird flew directly in front of us at the point, first flying right, then turning around and flying left at a distance of less than 20 yards. The bird clearly showed its all dark hooded head and vocalized. Western Sandpiper. This bird was seen displaying daily at various locations. Red-necked Stint. We found the first bird of the season on 31 May south of Troutman Lake, (good spotting by Chris Hitt!). Shortly, a second bird was discovered in the same area. These, or other birds, were seen over the next few days by others. Little Stint. During the afternoon of 1 Jun, a member of the WBA group photographed a bird south of Troutman Lake that was thought to be a Red-necked Stint. Later that evening, WBA leader James Huntington was reviewing the photographs and thought that the bird might be a Little Stint. Huntington and WBA leader/owner, Bob Dittrick, headed out and relocated the bird and indeed Red-necked Stint in the south ponds. Phil Davis. thought it to be a Little Stint. Huntington and Dittrick gathered up group leaders Kevin Zimmer (VENT) and Phil Davis (High Lonesome BirdTours) and we all went back and looked at the bird. Assured that it was a Little Stint, the word was passed via the radio around 11 pm and most groups on the island got to see the bird.
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Long-toed Stint. When we arrived on the island on 24 May, Dave MacKay refound a Long-toed Stint that had first been identified by independent birder Dave DeSantee in the near marsh. This bird was terribly cooperative and remained either in the near marsh or the circular boneyard through 31 May, although others reported it through 2 Jun. Least Sandpiper. As a good comparison to the Longtoed Stint, a single bird, not common at Gambell, was found by Dave DeSantee at the near boneyard on 30 May.
Long-toed Stint in the circular boneyard. Phil Davis.
Pectoral Sandpiper. A few birds were seen mostly around the near marsh between 24 and 28 May, with a single bird seen on 1 Jun. The earlier birds were actively displaying and singing.
Rock Sandpiper. This species was seen every day beginning on 25 May at various locations. Courtship behavior and singing was observed daily. Dunlin. This species was also seen displaying and singing daily at various locations. Ruff. A single female was found by the WBA group on 28 May, However, early on the morning of 31 May, Paul Lehman (WINGS) checked the airport ponds on his way to seawatch and found six female Ruffs there. Continuing to watch, this flock eventually became 31 birds, with seven of them displaying males of every possible color. Birds were seen at various locations later in the day and also for the next two days. This represents a record number of species seen at once for Gambell, and probably for Alaska (and possibly for North America?)
A portion of the flock of 31 Ruffs (that included seven breeding plumage males) on 31 May at the airport ponds. Insert, a breeding male in flight. Phil Davis. Page 7 of 10
Long-billed Dowitcher. Birds were seen at various locations on seven different days. One flock of nine was seen flying-in at the point on 26 May and then 12 birds were seen at the near marsh, actively displaying. Wilson’s Snipe. One bird was seen in flight on 25 May around the near marsh and another was heard near the south marsh. Both birds appeared visually and vocally to be Wilson’s Snipe, rather than the Eurasian species, the Common Snipe (of which several birds were found earlier in April, fide Brad Benter, USFWS). Red-necked Phalarope. Birds were seen a majority of the days at various locations. Red Phalarope. A pair of this species was seen on about one half of our days, around the South Lake. A few birds were also seen from seawatch. Jaegers. Jaegers were present in small numbers. The expected northerly migration of Pomarine Jaegers was not observed in huge numbers this year during our stay (likely due to the icy conditions), however, we did see a few flocks of about 20 birds. Only a few Parasitics were seen. A handful of Long-taileds were seen from the point or on the tundra at the South Lake. “Vega” Herring Gull. This common gull was seen daily. This taxon (“Siberian Gull”) is a candidate for a split from the “American Herring Gull” since it more closely related to the other Siberian speces rather than the North American smithsonianus. Slaty-backed Gull. Several birds of various ages were seen on or around the ice at seawatch on several days. Glaucous-winged Gull. One first-year bird was observed on 3 Jun. Black-legged Kittiwake. This species was commonly seen. In addition to adults, some firstyear birds were also frequently seen. Ivory Gull. We had two sighting of this species. On 27 May, Keith Lockhart, of our group, spotted an adult sitting on the ice at seawatch. We watched it take off and fly south. We tried but were not able to relocate it later further south for other groups to see. On 1 Jun at 11 pm, independent birder Robert Dowling saw a first year bird land briefly at the point and then take off to the south. The word was passed via the radio and our group, as well as some others, got to the see the bird when it came back to the same spot, twice. (This all happened while the Little Stint was being confirmed, making a bit of an exciting time for all!) Seabirds – General. Seawatch was very slow when we arrived due to the icy conditions. A number of the species had not yet arrived and/or were probably avoiding the ice. By the end of our second week, the seawatch began to look more like a classic Gambell seawatch. Dovekie. On 28 May, Phil Davis found four birds on the side of the mountain near the usually location; however the fog over the next several days kept any birders from being able to check on them. On 3 Jun, others relocated this species on the side of the mountain, near the usual spot, however, by the time we got there; the birds had flown out to sea. The next morning, we arrived early at the spot and got to see four birds on the rocks.
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Murres. Both Common and Thick-billed were daily, affording good opportunities to study their differences. Guillemots. A few Black Guillemots were seen early during our stay on 25-26 May. Pigeons were seen in larger than normal numbers early during our stay both from the point and at the cliffs. Auklets. All three species Common Murre (left) and Thick-billed Murre (right) passing at seawatch (Parakeet, Least, and showing obvious differences in color (brown vs. black), and more subtle Crested) were seen differences in bill and neck shape, and gape line. Phil Davis. virtually daily at seawatch and on the side of the mountain. Parakeets were not seen until our second day (25 May). Puffin. Both species (Horned and Tufted) were seen from seawatch daily, beginning on 25 May. Short-eared Owl. One bird was seen by Phil Davis on 30 May before our Gambell 2 group arrived. Common Raven. Seen in good numbers this year around the area. Sky Lark. Paul Lehman (WINGS) found a Sky Lark on 4 Jun in the near boneyard, only about one hour before we were to depart (Whew!). All birders on the island got on this bird and were able to see it well. Violet-Green Swallow. On 31 May, a Violet-Green Swallow was clearly observed around the far boneyard. This is one day earlier than a sighting from last year, which was believed to represent the first record for the northern Bering Sea region. Bluethroat. A few single birds were seen at various location. Some of our group got to see one briefly on 3 Jun. These birds are often flighty at Gambell. Stonechat. On our first day, 24 May, Phil Davis found a first-year male in the grass at the boatyard, just above the near boneyard. The bird was last seen on the morning of 26 May. See separate report and image, attached. Gray-cheeked Thrush. Several of this trans-Beringian species were present during the period. Eyebrowed Thrush. A single bird was found by Dexter Richardson on 3 Jun on the hillside, above the far boneyard, affording good looks to all. Varied Thrush. We saw a male in the near boneyard on 25 May. A few other birds were reported by others during the period. Eastern Yellow Wagtail. A cooperative bird was singing and displaying around the far and circular boneyards from 31 May through the end of our stay.
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White Wagtail. We briefly saw a single bird on 25 May near the far boneyard and subsequently on 28 and 31 May. On 3 Jun, Robert Dowling found one in the boatyard and our group got to see it well. No nesting behavior was observed by us this year, unlike last year. Red-throated Pipit. A cooperative bird was seen on 25 May in the near boneyard and two other birds were observed on 31 May, including a very cooperative bird in the circular boneyard. Flyovers were heard on other days or were observed by others. American Pipit. A pink-legged American Pipit of the Siberian japonicus subspecies was seen on 2 Jun near the far boneyard. Savannah Sparrow. One very bright bird was seen in the near boneyard on 25 May. Golden-crowned Sparrow. Phil Davis observed one bird near the Eyebrowed Thrush, above the far boneyard on 3 Jun. Lapland Longspur. The most abundant passerine around Gambell. Males were displaying and singing. Snow Bunting. The second most abundant passerine around Gambell. Males were also displaying and singing. Brambling. Dave MacKay found an adult in the near boneyard on our arrival on 24 May. Other birds were seen on various days during the period. Hoary Redpoll. Phil Davis found our first one of 24 May in the far boneyard. This year, Hoarys were few and scattered but were seen in small numbers on most days. Common Redpoll. Common Redpolls were only observed only in small numbers and just on a few days.
7. Misses. We did not see any Ross’s Gulls this year; they had departed prior to our arrival. As noted, Spectacled Eiders were seen by others, but we did not see any during our times at seawatch.
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