Jura And Savoie Chapter From Wine Report 2007

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Jura & Savoie Wink Lorch For the tiny wine regions of Jura and Savoie, developing links with tourism, particularly with local restaurants, is deemed the most important defence against the growing crisis in the French wine industry. The Jura is revamping its Route du Vin for an official relaunch in 2007. A new brochure listing hotels, restaurants, and tourist sites, as well as producers in the area, was produced for summer 2006. Growing in popularity is the biennial Fête de Ploussard in Pupillin (2006), which alternates with the Fête de Trousseau in Montigny les Arsures (2007) over the third weekend in August. In 2005, WINK LORCH the Fête de Trousseau included a gastronomic lunch prepared by top local chefs to match a series of Trousseau wines – it was sold out on both days. A new tourist initiative is a ‘picnic with the vigneron’ event, held for the first time in June 2006. The participating vignerons will supply picnicking facilities and, of course, samples of their wine. Jazz bands and other entertainments are promised, too. In Savoie, there is a less cohesive initiative, but the importance of tourism is recognized as crucial. They, too, have a Route du Vin for the main vineyard areas, but the Comité Interprofessionnel recognizes a need to forge closer links with restaurants and hotels, of which few are actually in the vineyard areas. One noble exception is the Auberge les Morainières, a small restaurant in the heart of the Jongieux region on the slope of the WINK LORCH is a wine writer and educator with a passion for the mountains and a chalet in the Haut-Savoie. She is a past chairman of the Association of Wine Educators and has contributed to several books, including Time-Life’s The Wine Guide, The Global Wine Encyclopedia, and Le Cordon Bleu’s Wine Essentials. Wink particularly enjoys enthusing about wines from vineyards in sight of snowcapped mountains, whether the Andes, the Alps, or the Jura. She divides her time between London and the French Alps.

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Marestel cru. A tastefully restored building, it is an ideal place to enjoy a range of good Savoie wines, including Marestel, by the glass. In both Jura and Savoie, the emphasis that local restaurants place on their regional wines is a matter for concern. With the exception of the top restaurants, where chefs pride themselves on matching local produce with wines from the area, many more modest restaurants offer a simple list of appellations and/or grape varieties with no indication of producer or vintage. Often these come from one négociant, because it makes life easier for the restaurateur. Mark-ups on the local wines may be excessive. Louis Magnin of Savoie spotted one of his top wines, which sells at the cellar door for €15, listed at €65 in a restaurant in Megève. On the other hand, Christophe Menozzi, a top sommelier in the Jura, commented that vignerons do not make enough effort to communicate with the local sommelier groups, and despite initiatives from the sommeliers inviting vignerons to tastings, few make time to attend.

2004 wines from each plot confirmed that the fullest styles of Trousseau are produced around Montigny. There is plenty of potential for lighter wines in other areas, however, because these are enjoyed by local consumers. The report should serve as a blueprint for vignerons across the region who want to expand their holdings or even plant this local variety for the first time.

The AOC Château-Chalon vineyard area was formally recognized in January 2006 by the French ministry for ecology and sustainable development as a “classified site”. A charter known as the chartre de Fontrevaud was signed by local representatives agreeing to protect the landscape and the wine of Château-Chalon. This step is a precursor to being recognized by UNESCO. Château-Chalon now belongs to the exclusive club of classified historic vineyards, in company that includes St-Emilion, the Douro, and Tokaj.

Local grapes: new studies

Dumping row

Autumn 2005 saw the very basic laboratory at the Syndicat des Vins de Savoie in Chambéry housing no fewer than 60 demijohns bubbling away, the first micro-vinification exercise of this size from clonal trials of Mondeuse, Altesse, and Jacquère. Roussanne (known as Bergeron in Savoie) and the unusual black Persan grape were also micro-vinified, but there was insufficient crop to keep the clones separate. Savoie suffers from a lack of clonal diversity, which is why the trial was set up. In particular, it is hoped to establish the best new clones of Mondeuse and Altesse, since these are most often chosen for new plantings. Growers are planting less of the rather bland Jacquère grape (the most planted variety) and the ubiquitous Gamay and Pinot Noir, as demand for the more interesting Mondeuse and Altesse wines increases. In the Jura, a report published in February 2006 specified the best terroirs for growing the Trousseau grape (thought to be identical to Portugal’s Bastardo), following a detailed survey by retired geology professor Michel Campy, together with Christian Barnéoud of the Chambre d’Agriculture de Franche-Comté. Traditionally, Trousseau has been considered best when grown in the clay-rich gravel outcrops in the northern part of the Arbois appellation around Montigny Les Arsures. A late ripener, it needs a light-textured soil. With increased demand for the variety, and only around 100 ha planted, the study aimed to test its suitability elsewhere in the region. Fifteen plots growing mature Trousseau, situated from the far north to the far south of the Jura, were examined geologically, and a blind tasting of

Dumping of vin jaune by Jura négociants has caused fury among Jura producers. In March 2005, two local supermarket chains were selling vin jaune for just €11.20 per clavelin (62-cl bottle), compared to a normal price of €20–30. Vine growers protested to the supermarkets, explaining that production costs could not be covered at this price and demanding that the price be raised to a more realistic level of at least €15. Growers marched into the offending supermarkets, intending to take the bottles from the shelves, but the supermarket had already removed them. Later they reappeared at a higher price. In the autumn 2005 wine-fair season, vins jaunes were once again on sale at below €12.

Château-Chalon site classified

Grapevine • Ovarius, a new decanter designed by Jura physicist Michel Patois and Jura sommelier Christophe Menozzi of restaurant Le Comtois in Doucier, was launched in 2005. Made from hand-blown glass and shaped like a wide-based teapot with an erect spout, it is ideal for young wine and vin jaune, which need plenty of aeration in a very short time. A few minutes in the decanter is all it takes, since the shape acts as a particle accelerator. Stamped on the decanter is the equation Ec = 1⁄2 mv 2 .

•

Crémant du Jura sold in 2005/06 has been granted a special derogation by the INAO to spend only nine months (instead of 12) sur lattes. This follows the very small 2003 vintage and is the second time this derogation has been granted in the past five years. Crémant is one of the most successful AOCs in the region, but apparently this leeway won’t be allowed again.

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Opinion: Jura needs a cohesive approach The Jura is undoubtedly the most complicated wine region in the world in terms of its plethora of wine styles. Crémant du Jura and vin jaune are the only styles where one knows what to expect; the reds, whites, and vins de paille are hugely varied, depending on grape variety and vinification styles. Reading the label or looking at a wine list rarely gives any indication of style. Most Jura producers hand-sell a significant proportion of their wines at the cellar door or at tasting salons. But how is anyone supposed to choose a Jura wine off the shelf, or from a wine list? I have put this question repeatedly to Alain Baud, president of the Jura Société de Viticulteurs. It seems that the Jura vignerons cannot agree on the terms to use on their labels, and back-label explanations remain purely voluntary. Baud sees no prospect of change here. He also points out that INAO policy forbids naming grape varieties on the label. Many Jura producers have been flouting this for years, and Baud hopes for official authorization to use varietal labelling. Each year I taste more and more Jura wines that I believe would excite international palates: Chardonnays to rival burgundy; fresh Savagnins that tingle with lemony acidity and match a range of foods wonderfully; Trousseau and Pinot Noir reds with depth of fruit yet refreshingly lightweight; luscious vin de paille or sweet wines sold under other designations. But what chance is there of anyone outside the region discovering these wines if they are not described properly? They will remain confined to the cellars of certain restaurants and a select group of curious consumers unless the growers (and the INAO) agree to give more descriptive labels.

Savoie has to raise its game Savoie, too, has wines that are improving, but once again few people get to know about these for two main reasons. First, the average quality of certain wines, in particular from the largest crus, Apremont and Abymes, and from some of the négociants, is too low. These are the wines most often drunk by visitors to the French Alps, and one bad experience is likely to put them off Savoie wines forever. The growers have been encouraged to reduce yields, but this has still not gone far enough. Too many wines are weak and insipid, whereas the best growers demonstrate that very decent wines can be made. Second, there is a lack of regional promotion,

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especially towards keen wine consumers. Growers in the Combe de Savoie area have formally complained to the Syndicat des Vins that the Comité des Vins de Savoie (CIVS) is not doing enough to promote the region’s wines. The CIVS works with French journalists to promote the region, but it does not do enough with the public. For the future of the region, promotion must be improved to justify growers charging the higher prices they need to sustain lower yields and greater work.

Cerdon authenticity under threat Misuse of the term méthode ancestrale remains a problem for Bugey. Bugey Cerdon VDQS is the only quality rosé sparkling wine to be made by the méthode ancestrale, and the region is asking the INAO to restrict the term méthode ancestrale to quality (AOC and VDQS) wines. This would outlaw wines such as the Boisset-owned Pellin Rosé Vin Mousseux Demi-Sec, labelled “Méthode Ancestrale” and made from bought-in Gamay.

Grapevine •

Jean Rijckaert, the négociant and grower based in the Mâconnais, can sleep soundly at night now that he has proved his commitment to the Jura region by hiring a full-time assistant based near Arbois to oversee both vineyards and vinification in the Jura.

• The Fruitière Vinicole d’Arbois,

the largest wine cooperative in the Jura and one of the first in France, celebrated its 100th anniversary in 2006. Formed by 31 vignerons following the phylloxera crisis, it has 111 members farming about 25 per cent of AOC Arbois. It has also announced that it will join forces with the much smaller Fruitière (cooperative) in Poligny. To celebrate the occasion, 100 bottles of Arbois wines were locked up for 100 years in the walls of Château Béthanie, the co-op headquarters.

• From 2007, vin jaune from AOCs Arbois, Côtes du Jura, and Etoile is likely to undergo agrément tasting and analytical tests before bottling

after its six years of maturation. This is one of the measures of the rewritten AOCs for the region likely to have been approved by mid-2006. It follows similar measures taken in 2004 for AOC Château-Chalon (a vin jaune by definition).

• Vendange Tardive is a designation sought by the Syndicat des Vins de Savoie in their rewritten AOCs. Increasing numbers of Savoie vignerons make a late-harvest wine from Jacquère, Altesse, or Bergeron (Roussanne) but are not allowed to use the term on labels.

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Vins du Bugey have a good chance of being promoted from their current VDQS status to AOC for the 2006 vintage. At the time of writing, the official rubber stamp is being eagerly awaited, after more than 10 years of battling. The proposals have already been approved by the regional INAO, and growers are likely to be highly demotivated if promotion is not granted by the Paris-based INAO.

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Vintage Report Advance report on the latest harvest 2005 Jura – Following two contrasting and extreme vintages, growers were relieved to have a normal and healthy growing season, albeit fairly dry and hot compared to the average. It was quite an early harvest and weather remained good throughout the picking period, extended by some of the best growers to the latter half of October. Crucially, unlike 2003, acidity was maintained, and this, combined with good concentration and modest yields, promises extremely well for all varieties and styles of wines. Savoie – Unusually, growers had little to complain about in this vintage. True, August was rather cool and wet at times, giving a few disease problems for the usual culprits, Gamay and Pinot Noir, but September and October provided glorious, dry, warm, and sunny weather. Perfect picking conditions allowed patient growers to wait as long as possible to pick the late-ripening Mondeuse grapes. This has ensured better physiological ripeness than usual, even if (as ever) this variety needs quite hefty chaptalization. Most whites from Bergeron (Roussanne) and Altesse grapes did not need any chaptalization. The wines of all varieties promise well, with good balance of fruit and structure.

Updates on the previous five vintages

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Savoie – Extremely dry until the second week of August, but then rain arrived in abundance, and by early September, growers were under pressure from disease. But the harvest was saved later in the month with constant fine, sunny weather that dried out the rot. Excess quantity was a problem, but the grapes were generally healthy and sugar levels were extremely reasonable. Late varieties Altesse, Jacquère, and Mondeuse did best, and those growers who were selective have produced reasonably concentrated wines. However, overall, this is not an exciting vintage.

2003 Vintage rating: Jura – Red: 86,White: 76; Savoie – Red: 83,White: 81 Jura – The harvest was around five weeks earlier than normal, and quantities were down 30 per cent. Dealing with low acidity was a big challenge, especially for Savagnin wines destined for vin jaune, which need to withstand nearly seven years of ageing. Other 2003 whites were ready early, though some producers were still loath to bottle early: this is a very atypical vintage with some overripe fruit flavours sometimes taking away any jurassien character. However, reds, for once, are actually red in colour and taste of ripe fruit! Savoie – The hot, dry conditions led to an early harvest of supremely healthy grapes that required extremely careful cellar handling, especially of low acidity levels. Low quantities of Chignin Bergeron and Altesse (for Roussette de Savoie) mean that few wines are still available. However, the best producers made deliciously fruity whites, which still retain some alpine freshness. Mondeuse can be overtannic despite the high level of fruit.

Ratings for vin jaune and vin de paille are included in the scores for white wines.

2004

2002

Vintage rating: Jura – Red: 80,White: 82; Savoie – Red: 74,White: 78

Vintage rating: Jura – Red: 86,White: 90; Savoie – Red: 79,White: 77

Jura – After a wet summer, September was dry and warm. Crop levels were high and selection was crucial to have any chance of making good wines. Much Chardonnay was picked for Crémant, and the grapes were also sufficiently healthy for drying for vin de paille. Savagnins were picked at good sugar and acidity levels, crucial for vin jaune. Green-harvesting was practised by many growers with black varieties, and the resulting Trousseau wines show particularly well from good producers; other black varieties were less successful.

Jura – A period of fine weather in autumn gave overall good quality. Nearly all varieties showed both good natural ripeness and high acidity levels. This bodes well for vin jaune in the future. Chardonnays are proving excellent, with good weight and balance. Trousseau reds are good, too. Savoie – Good late September weather saved the harvest, following a difficult August. Mondeuse did well in places, with some good results. Altesse is varied, though some interesting late-harvest versions have been made.

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2001

BEST-VALUE PRODUCERS

Vintage rating: Jura – Red: 65,White: 73; Savoie – Red: 60,White: 68 Jura – A difficult, fairly small, and variable vintage. AOC Château-Chalon was declassified, but some decent vin jaune should be produced. Other wines show variation, but some elegant and balanced Chardonnays and Savagnins were made. Savoie – Medium-quality vintage, especially difficult for reds, but some reasonable whites made.

2000 Vintage rating: Jura – Red: 79,White: 83; Savoie – Red: 79,White: 85 Jura – A good-quality vintage overall, with attractive fruit characteristics and reasonable structure but some lack of concentration, often due to high yields. Whites continue to age well. Savoie – A good year overall, with concentrated Bergeron and Altesse. All but the finest Mondeuse wines need drinking now.

GREATEST WINE PRODUCERS Jura 1 Domaine André & Mireille Tissot 2 Domaine Labet Père & Fils 3 Jacques Puffeney 4 Jean Rijckaert 5 Domaine Jacques Tissot 6 Domaine Berthet-Bondet 7 Domaine Ganevat Savoie 1 Domaine Prieuré Saint-Christophe 2 Domaine Dupasquier 3 André & Michel Quenard

FASTEST-IMPROVING PRODUCERS Jura 1 Domaine Pignier 2 Domaine Ligier Père & Fils 3 Domaine de la Renardière

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4 Frédéric Lornet 5 Domaine de la Tournelle

Savoie 1 Jean-Pierre & Philippe Grisard 2 Denis & Didier Berthollier 3 Jean-Pierre & Jean-François

Quenard 4 D&P Belluard 5 Domaine Jean Perrier & Fils (Haute

Sélection Gilbert Perrier range)

NEW UP-AND-COMING PRODUCERS Jura 1 Domaine de la Borde 2 Rémi Treuvey 3 Jean-Marc Brignot Savoie 1 Gilles Berlioz 2 Domaine Saint-Germain 3 Domaine Genoux

Jura 1 Daniel Dugois 2 Domaine Rolet 3 Domaine Baud Père & Fils 4 Château Béthanie, Fruitière Vinicole d’Arbois Savoie 1 Domaine de l’Idylle 2 Edmond Jacquin & Fils 3 Domaine Jean Vullien & Fils 4 Cave du Prieuré 5 Pascal & Annick Quenard 6 Cave de Chautagne

GREATEST-QUALITY WINES Jura: The 1998 vin jaune and Château-Chalon still need at least five years’ ageing.The other whites are of burgundian (non-oxidative) style to drink from now. 1 Château-Chalon 1998 François Mossu (€28 per 62-cl bottle) 2 Arbois Vin Jaune 1998 Domaine Jacques Tissot (€28 per 62-cl bottle) 3 Château-Chalon 1998 Domaine Berthet-Bondet (€28 per 62-cl bottle) 4 Côtes du Jura Savagnin Cuvée Privilège 2003 Domaine Ganevat (€13) 5 Arbois Chardonnay Les Bruyères 2003 Domaine André & Mireille Tissot (€13.80) 6 Côtes du Jura Chardonnay Les Varrons 2002 Domaine Labet Père & Fils (€11) Savoie 1 Vin de Savoie Mondeuse Tradition 2003 Domaine Prieuré Saint-Christophe (€15) 2 Chignin Bergeron Saint Anthelme 2004 Denis & Didier Berthollier (€9) 3 Roussette de Savoie Cuvée Prestige et Tradition Elevé en Fûts 2004 Jean-Pierre & Philippe Grisard (€7)

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4 Roussette de Savoie Marestel

2003 Domaine Dupasquier (€7)

BEST BARGAINS Jura 1 Côtes du Jura Chardonnay 2002 Domaine Rolet (€7.50) 2 Arbois Pupillin Savagnin Ouillé des Plantées 2004 Domaine de la Borde (€7.50) 3 Côtes du Jura Fleur de Savagnin 2002 Domaine Labet Père & Fils (€9) Savoie 1 Vin de Savoie Pinot Noir 2003 Domaine Dupasquier (€5.30) 2 Chignin Mondeuse Vieilles Vignes 2004 André & Michel Quenard (€6.10) 3 Vin de Savoie Mondeuse Les Taillis 2004 Domaine SaintGermain (€5.50) 4 Roussette de Savoie Marestel 2004 Cave du Prieuré (€7.20) 5 Vin de Savoie Mondeuse La Saxicole Prestige 2003 Domaine de l’Idylle (€8.50) 6 Roussette de Savoie Château de Monterminod 2004 Domaine Jean Perrier & Fils (€7.50) 7 Roussette de Savoie Marestel 2004 Edmond Jacquin & Fils (€8)

Grapevine •

Residual sugar levels of chaptalized Savoie whites will be limited to 6 g/l for Vins de Savoie and 8 g/l for Roussette de Savoie if new AOC proposals are passed.

• La Percée du Vin Jaune 2007,

the annual weekend festival in Jura, will take place on 3–4 February 2007 in the historic town of Salins les Bains. A record 50,000+ visitors attended the event in Lons le Saunier in February 2006.

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MOST EXCITING OR UNUSUAL FINDS Jura 1 Mélodie Arbois 2004 Domaine André & Mireille Tissot (€40 per halfbottle) An icewine made from Savagnin grapes picked between 4 and 7am at an unusually low –10°C (14°F) on 22 December. At 11 per cent alcohol it is incredibly delicate; sweet but with wonderful acidity and apricot/lemon flavours. 2 Côtes du Jura Chardonnay A la Percenette 2004 Domaine Pignier (€9) Pignier’s first foray into ‘Burgundian-style’ Chardonnay. The fruit has great purity, perhaps because the domaine is in conversion to biodynamic methods, and this works well with light use of fairly new oak barrels. 3 Arbois Pinot Noir 2003 Jacques Puffeney (€11) From this extraordinary early vintage, 60year-old Pinot vines produced a very low yield. Fermented and aged in foudres for one year and then transferred to second- and third-fill barrels. A resounding success, giving a delicious Pinot. 4 Arbois Trousseau Singulier 2004 Domaine André & Mireille Tissot (€12) Quite simply one of the most intense Trousseaux I’ve ever tasted. Stéphane Tissot vinified this special parcel from low-yielding vines separately to produce a singular wine, fermented in conical wooden casks and aged in demimuids (600-litre barrels). 5 Côtes du Jura Les Goulesses 2003 Sylvie & Luc Boilley (€13) This supremely balanced and flavoursome red is from an old parcel of Trousseau, complanted with a little Poulsard. The vintage gave wonderful concentrated fruit, yet there is a lively character to the wine, too.

6 Arbois Grain de Folie 1997

Domaine de la Pinte (€30) La Pinte owns relatively large proportions of Savagnin and makes several styles. Its folie was to keep this wine in barrel for seven years (the length of time for vin jaune) but keeping the barrels topped up, giving an interesting, intensely flavoured result. Savoie 1 Vin de Savoie Ayze Gringet 2004 D&P Belluard (€7.50) The tiny cru between Geneva and Chamonix specializes in sparkling wines from the Gringet grape (related to Traminer).This, however, is the best still wine from Ayze, made from vineyards partly in conversion to biodynamic methods. 2 Vin de Savoie Arbin Mondeuse Harmonie 2004 Les Fils de Charles Trosset (€8) Trosset is often cited in lists of the best Mondeuse wines.The domaine never returns my calls, so I’ve never visited. But, for the first time, one of their purchased wines did very well in my blind tastings. 3 Vin de Savoie Trilogie 2004 René & Béatrice Bernard (€6.50) This serious Apremont producer had some Marsanne in its vineyard, which has been hidden away in their wines for years. Before the Marsanne was uprooted, a special wine was produced, blending it with Chardonnay and Jacquère. Lovely yellow fruit flavours. 4 Vin de Savoie Chignin Bergeron Le Bergeron d’Elisa 2004 JeanPierre & Jean-François Quenard (€14 per half-bottle) Increasing numbers of Chignin producers leave some grapes to make a late-harvest Roussanne (Bergeron) wine. Some noble rot has given a delicately honeyed wine. Not sweet enough to match dessert; delicious on its own.