Introduction To Textile Raw Material

TEXTILES TEXTILES PRODUCTION PRODUCTION FLOW FLOW

TEXTILE TEXTILE RAW RAW MATERIAL MATERIAL (NATURAL/MAN-MADE) (NATURAL/MAN-MADE) YARN YARN MANUFACTURING MANUFACTURING (SPINNING) (SPINNING) FABRIC FABRIC MANUFACTURING MANUFACTURING (WEAVING/KNITTING) (WEAVING/KNITTING)

TEXTILES TEXTILES PROCESSING PROCESSING

GARMENT GARMENT MANUFACTURING MANUFACTURING BZU TEXTILE ENGINEERS

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Textiles Raw Materials • Nature presents a large variety of fibers. Beside this it is possible today to produce a number of different kinds of man made fibers but only a relatively small amount of this is actually used in textile industry.

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Raw Material Blends • Textile raw materials are selected as per the manufacturing policy of the company i.e. whether a composite mill or only a spinning, weaving or dyeing /finishing. • Cotton mills are usually using the blends of cotton polyester, cotton viscose, cotton acrylic, blends of more then two fibers suit various purpose. Proper selection of the suitable raw material is directly linked with the quality of the planned production. BZU TEXTILE ENGINEERS

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Textile Fiber • Fiber is a matter flexibility, fineness and length to thickness. It least length to diameter consider a fiber.

which includes a high ratio of is necessary at ratio is 1000 to

• Some additional characteristics are the required for textile fibers, such as stability at high temperature, a certain minimum strength & extensibility. BZU TEXTILE ENGINEERS

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RAW RAW MATERIALS MATERIALS TYPES TYPES

NATURAL NATURAL FIBERS FIBERS

ANIMAL ANIMAL

MAN-MADE MAN-MADE FIBERS FIBERS

VEGITABLE VEGITABLE

SYNTHETICS SYNTHETICS

REGENRATED REGENRATED

COTTON COTTON FLAX FLAX JUTE JUTE

POLYESTER POLYESTER NYLON NYLON ACRYLIC ACRYLIC POLYURETHANE POLYURETHANE

VISCOSE VISCOSE RAYON RAYON CUPRO. CUPRO. ACETATES ACETATES RUBBER RUBBER

SILK SILK WOOL WOOL HAIR HAIR

MINERAL MINERAL BASE BASE

MINERAL MINERAL BASE BASE

(GLASS/METAL) (GLASS/METAL)

(ASBESTOS) (ASBESTOS)

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Physical Types of Fiber 1. Staple Fibers: Any fiber with a practically limited or finite length is called “Staple Fiber” These are small length fiber like cotton, wool, jute etc. it may be natural (Cotton) or man-made (Viscose rayon, Polyester). 2. Filament Fibers: All fibers having a practically unlimited or infinite length are called filaments. Filament fibers are continuous (long) fiber. It may be natural like silk or synthetic like Nylon. BZU TEXTILE ENGINEERS

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Cotton • The cotton fiber from the plant as the long hair attached to the seed inside the boll. As the plant grow the fibers packed tightly into the boll. When it reached to maturity , the bolls bursts and cotton appears as a soft wad of fine fibers. • Each cotton seed may produce as many as 20000 fibers on its surface, and a single boll will contains 150,000 fibers. BZU TEXTILE ENGINEERS

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Cotton Fiber Production 1. CULTIVATION 2. PICKING/HARVESTING 3. GINNING

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Ginning • After picking from field the cotton fibers are separated from seeds by “Ginning Process”. • Quite often wet & damp cotton is presented to Ginneries which cannot be perfectly pass through the machine passages and generally cases to loose a large percentage of foreign substance . All foreign matter can not be taken out during ginning. BZU TEXTILE ENGINEERS

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Types of Ginning 1. Saw Ginning: In saw ginning circular saw revolves on one shaft. The quality of cotton is more clean in saw ginning. But Fiber breakage (Gin cut) is too high in saw ginning. 2. Roller Ginning: In case of roller ginning the cotton fibers are separated by revolving rollers. The cotton contains comparatively more trash. BZU TEXTILE ENGINEERS

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Bast Fibers • These fibers are constructed of long thick walled cells which overlapped one and other; they are cemented together by non cellulose material to form continues strand that may run the entire length of the plant stem. • On the quantity based the jute is most important in the bast textile fibers, but the most of is made into baggage cloths. BZU TEXTILE ENGINEERS

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Flax • The production of the flax is 1/7 of the jute fibers, but the flax is the fibers from which we make linen; it is on that basis the most important of the bast fibers in textiles. • Flax appears to be the earliest vegetable bast fiber to be used industrially and there fibers come from the stem of an annul plant which grown was confirmed from almost in all European country, Russia & North America . BZU TEXTILE ENGINEERS

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Production Flow of Flax 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.

Cultivation Harvesting Rippling Retting Breaking and Scutching Heckling BZU TEXTILE ENGINEERS

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• Harvesting: When the plant reaches to height of 3`-4` as consider full growth the plant is pulled up & cut down. • Rippling: Removal of leaves and seeds by a series of up right forks. • Retting: It involve the decomposition of the woody matter enclosing the cellulose fibers. BZU TEXTILE ENGINEERS

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• Scutching: This process separates unwanted woody matter from fibers. • Heckling: This process is like the combing process of cotton fibers, The coarse bundle of fibers are separated from finer bundles, and the fibers are also arranged parallel to one another the longer fine fibers. BZU TEXTILE ENGINEERS

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Wool Production • The sheep was an obvious choice when human needs worm clothing, as he wanted an animal that would provide a skin of size suitable for use as a human garment: and he wanted, at the same time, a creature that grew a soft and comfortable fleece. • Modern sheep have been bread to provide as a large proposition of wool as possible. BZU TEXTILE ENGINEERS

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Wool Grading • When the bales of the wools are opened in the mills, the fleeces are skirted if this has not already been done. The fleece may be classified as whole or, if variable in quality, separated in to sections such as shoulders, ides, back, thighs and birth and belly. • In general, the shoulder provides the best wool and the flanks a slight lower quality. The belly, the tails and legs yield the poorest quality of wool. BZU TEXTILE ENGINEERS

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Types of Recycle Wool Recovered wool: • The supply of the wool available to the world every year amounts to about 2700 million kg (6000 million lbs.). After scouring, the weight is reduced to some 1550 million kg of pure wool. • This crop of wool is insufficient to meet the world’s needs, and the supply is maintained to some extend by re-using wool which has already been made in to yarns and fabrics. BZU TEXTILE ENGINEERS

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All wool and virgin wool: • A fabric or garment label as “all wool” is not necessarily made from new fleece wool; it may contain a proportion of the recovered wool. It is customary to refer to new wool materials as “virgin wool”. The “wool mark”, which designates such virgin wools, guarantees that a fabric is made from the new wools. BZU TEXTILE ENGINEERS

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Silk • Silk is not grown in the form of hair, but it is produced by insects which makes their webs. Cocoons & climbing ropes. Almost the entire commercial silk industry is based on one insect as known “silk worm”. The silk is made by it, when it wants to change in chrysalis, then a moth. It spins the silk rapes the fiber around itself in the form of a cocoon, inside which it can settle down in comfort.

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Silk Production • • • • • • •

Production Hatching: Process of hatching Moulting: Spinning the cocoon: Reeling: De-gumming:

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Silk Production • Production: The silk worm is the cater pillar of a small half moths belonging to “bombyx” it lives only on leaves of mulberry tree. The silk worm spent their life in eating leaves. • Hatching: Eggs of silk worm are warm up for hatching in winter. Hatching is done by spreading the eggs over the trays in the hatching shed and chopped leaves of mulberry trees are spread on the perforated paper. The worm climbs through the holes eating the leaves. BZUfor TEXTILE ENGINEERS 22

Silk Production • Moulting: After 35 days of hatching worm is 10000 times as heavy as it was born and it has become greenish white cater pillar. Now it is ready to start spinning, silk worm built its cocoon to settle down in it. • Spinning the cocoon: The liquid silk comes from two glands called spinneret in the silk worm head, as the liquid comes out it is hardened into very fine filaments which are coated by a gummy substance called sericin which comes from other two glands nearly. BZU TEXTILE ENGINEERS 23

Silk Production • Reeling: The unwinding of filament from cocoon, is called reeling. • De-gumming: The natural gum, sericin is normally left on silk during reeling & weaving, it acts as a sizing material which protects fibers from mechanical injury. The gum is removed from the finished yarn of fabrics usually by boiling with soap in water. BZU TEXTILE ENGINEERS

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The Final Comments • Thank you very much for your time but thanks for this opportunity you have provided to us at very basic stage, this actually gives us very tuff time but with your guidance and instruction forward by our supervisor infect, make this dream imaginable. BZU TEXTILE ENGINEERS

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