Holier Than Cebu

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Cebu (Facing page) The Taoist temple; (this page, from top) Shangri-la’s Mactan Island Resort; colourful Jeepneys, an American legacy, is an important mode of transport here

Divine diversity

Cebu is the only city in Asia where Christianity dominates but other religions also make their presence felt, including Taoism, Buddhism, Islam and Judaism. TEXT CARMEN JENNER

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City break The Marcelo Fernan Bridge, which connects Cebu with Mactan; (facing page) red candles lit in honour of Santo Nino; a devotee dressed in costume for the Celebration of Santo Nino

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agellan’s Cross looms above, a larger than life relic to Christianity on Cebu, one of the 7,000 islands in the Philippines. There are Catholic icons everywhere: A crucifix hanging off the rear-view mirror in a taxi, a painting of The Last Supper displayed in a cafe, or a rosary pressed between fingers clutching a steering wheel while negotiating the mad traffic. All over the city there are churches and the countryside is dotted with tiny chapels. The city morgue is one of the most opulent buildings in town inspiring families to spend millions of pesos on coffins. Just as city churches are often located in the centre of town, religion plays a pivotal role in the Filipino’s life, influencing holidays, traditions, art, architecture, and dining. Cebu lies at the centre of the Visayas archipalego and as it is protected from typhoons, the island became a popular Chinese trading port. In fact, that’s where the name Cebu may have originated from – sibu means barter. The other theory is that the name came from sebu or sibu meaning animal fat, and given the Philippine’s affinity with food this is quite likely also true. Cebu is also famous for dried mangoes, IT call centres, furniture, electronics, toys and Timex watches. Not to mention the Jeepney, compliments of the the Americans who left behind their Jeeps after World War II, which were then converted into colourful vehicles that to this day are used as public transport. 100 GOING PLACES NOVEMBER 2009

Ferdinand Magellan left behind another tribute to Christianity: A representative of the child Jesus called Santo Nino, meaning child saint, making the oldest saint in the Philippines a toddler. The Basilica Minore del Sto Nino (Osmena Boulevard, Downtown Area Opens Daily; entry is free) was built to house the statue in 1565 and hundreds of devotees pray to Santo Nino’s image daily. The current basilica has been rebuilt several times between 1566 and 1739 and constant restoration has ensured the stately basilica retains its Filipino culture blended with Muslim, Romanesque and Neoclassical features. Although a place of worship, the atmosphere is vibrant both inside and out, where followers light candles among peddlars selling balloons, candles and good will. It is believed the violent death of Magellan instigated the building of Fort San Pedro (Plaza Independencia, Pier Area Opens Daily Admission Less than USD1) in 1565, the oldest bastion in the country. It served a number of purposes throughout history including a prison camp during the

Japanese occupation, where much of it was destroyed. The fort is made from coral and is bound together with egg whites; the excess of egg yolks were then used to make biscuits. From battle to biscuits, today it belies its treacherous past as the crumbling ruins function as a museum and the pretty grounds are a haven from the madness beyond the walls. Religious diversity Cebu has a strong Chinese community left over from centuries ago including a Taoist temple that’s open to the public and follows the teachings of the ancient Chinese philosopher, Lao Tze. Located in the suburb of Beverley Hills, the hillside is dotted with mansions and a shanty town known as Beverly Hell, keeping in the true form of the Yin Yang philosophy. }

Christianity came calling Several centuries earlier, the Spanish arrived to explore the spice islands, led by Ferdinand Magellan. A revered character in Filipino history, a mass was once held in his honour and a cross fashioned from a local wood was planted in 1521, claiming the land in the name of Christ, thus converting hundreds of believers from paganism to Catholicism. Named Magellan’s Cross (Magallanes Street, across from the Basilica Minore del Sto Nino Opens Daily; entry is free), it remains on its original site and is now housed in an octagan kiosk, encased in a dark wood to protect it from devotees chipping pieces of it, which they believe has great powers. These beliefs are evident even today as outside the octagon, women don yellow costumes while waving candles. One of them singles me out and while chanting and dancing before me, she petitions prayers to Saint Nino. After the performance, we make a donation and she slides into a trance to deliver the prayer to the Almighty. Her haunting look leaves me wondering what she prayed for long after the event. Despite his popularity, Magellan was met with much public unrest from the island of Mactan, just a few kilometres from Cebu, when chieftan Lapu-Lapu challenged the unity of Magellan’s following. A monument to Magellan built in 1866 now stands on Mactan Island, near the statue of his conqueror Lapu-Lapu and surrounded by a chain of fresh seafood restaurants serving traditional sutukil, a term derived from three words: Sugba (su), tuwa (tu), kilaw (kil) meaning to broil, boil and marinade . Nearby are hotel chains welcoming foreigners and their diversity – a hedonistic feast of food, tourism and gore. GOING PLACES NOVEMBER 2009 099

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Built in 1964, the temple is a classic example of Chinese architecture; the complex includes five chapels and shrines, and dragons symbolising cosmic movement on earth. Visitors also come to have their fortune told by a priest using a pair of kidney-shaped wooden blocks as a medium to communicate with God. Although 90 percent of the population is Catholic, other religions are practised in Cebu including Judaism and Buddhism, while Islam is the largest minority religion. There are many mosques in the city, with the more famous ones being Al-Khairiah Mosque (Highway Mambaling) and Green Mosque (Sikatuna). There are plans to build a new mosque on reclaimed land that can hold up to 30,000 devotees and will be one of the most important landmarks in Cebu. There are strict rules on entering a mosque: Enter only if you’re welcomed in, women must be fully covered from top to toe (including a head scarf) and approval for photography must be obtained. Catering to the small Buddhist community in Cebu is the Phu Shian Temple (25 Beverly Hills, Lahug Opens Daily; entry is free), near the Taoist temple. A place of reverence and meditation, the temple is run by several Buddhist monks of Chinese descent. Chu Un Temple (246-3 V Rama Avenue Opens Daily; entry is free) is another Buddhist temple, built in 1988 and is part of BLIA, Buddha’s Light International Association,

(Clockwise from top right) A rustic wooden church; Magellan’s Cross; local women in full regalia at the Sinulog Parade;

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CEBU APPLIES AS MUCH VIBRANCE TO ITS RELIGIOUS RITUALS AS IT DOES TO ITS JEEPNEYS, CUISINE AND BROAD SMILES which practises Humanistic Buddhism in everyday life through the eightfold path. The sacred south South of Cebu City, there are countless examples of religious heritage sites. A must-visit is the St Catherine of Alexandria Church (built in 1860) in the town of Carcar. Its Moorish architecture includes twin bell towers topped with onion-shaped domes reminiscent of the minarets in Middle Eastern mosques. Visitors are greeted by the 11 apostles at the entrance and the statue of Judas stands all alone in front of the convent. Another town, Argao, is known for its beaches and also draws tourists in to the San Miguel Archangel Parish, an example of Rococo-Baroque architecture. Although the statues in the main altar were painted in gold, much of the church remains true to its 17th century era. Heading further south in Boljoon is the heritage-listed Nuestra Senora Del Patrocino Parish, the only Spanish colonial church in Cebu still in its most original form. Established in 1783, the sturdy complex is enclosed by a stone perimeter and inside is a two-level blockhouse with a roofed parapet where artillery was mounted. Prior to the pre-Hispanic faith system, gods, spirits, and creatures dominated. Those relegated with power over the supernatural carried out ritual curing, and some of these

Guide to Cebu

paranormal beliefs are still performed today. Brave tourists partake in psychic surgery performed by medicine men and women who plunge their hands into the sick patient’s body to remove diseases leaving the patient scar-free. Believers consider it an alternative healing method while skeptics consider the psychic surgeons to be dangerous frauds. The Philippines is the only country in Asia with a predominant religion of Catholicism. When Magellan planted his cross, Cebu became an integral part of Christianity in the Philippines. However, unlike the stoic tradition of Catholicism in the Western culture, Cebu applies as much vibrance to its religious rituals as it does to its Jeepneys, cuisine and broad smiles. For more places of interest in Cebu, go to www.malaysiaairlinesblog.com

authentic sutukil. Handpick your seafood and relax under the cabana.

DO In the fourth week of November, the town of Carcar hosts the Kabkaban STAY Shangri-La’s Festival, held in conjunction Mactan Island Resort with the feast of St Catherine of & Spa (Punta Engano, LapuAlexandria, the town’s patron Lapu City Tel + 63 32 231 saint. Sinulog (every third 0288 www.shangri-la.com) Sunday of January) is the Feast understands island getaways like of the Santo Nino and is one of no other and the premier fivethe biggest celebrations in the star resort is set on the beach Philippines. Follow the beat of overlooking the Visayan Sea. the drums and join the Mardi The resort also includes CHI The Gras style parade with two steps Spa at Shangri-La, one of the forward and one step back. On most luxurious and largest spa Mactan island, the battle of villages in Asia. All of its rooms between Fernando Magellan and and suites provide spectacular Lapu-Lapu is commenorated with views of the ocean as well as Kadaugan Sa Mactan (22-27 the outlying islands surrounding April). Celebrations combine a Cebu. On Mondays, Tuesdays series of musical productions and Fridays, the resort hosts a re-enacting the battle as well native buffet and cultural show as street food and live band that allows guests to sample a entertainment. The Mandaue true Filipino fiesta. The Crown Fiesta is celebrated every May in Regency Hotel and Towers honour of the patron St Joseph (Fuente Tower 2, Osmena showcasing Mandue’s (a province Boulevard Tel +63 32 418 8888 within the city of Cebu) culture www.crownregencyhotels. with sporting events, street com) is ideal for thrill-seekers; dancing with the Mantawi the hotel has high-flying Festival and the Miss Mandaue activities circumnavigating the Beauty Pageant. tower; giving daredevils the feeling as if they are floating BEST TIME TO VISIT above the city. December to May are the best months as it’s off-season EAT Abaca Boutique for typhoons; January is also Resort & Restaurant a festive month so there will (Punta Engano Road, Lapube lots of opportunities and Lapu City Mactan Island), activities that let you sample serves fanstatic Mediterranean Filipino culture. cuisine with beachfront views. No Problem Restaurant (D’ VISITOR’S Fisherman’s Wharf Mactan INFORMATION Shrine, Lapu-Lapu City) serves www.cebucitytourism.com

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