History And Development Of Textile Fabric Industry

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ABRICS

History and Development of Textile Fabric Industry • First mechanized spinning process developed in England in the 18th century. Fibers could now be twisted into yarn at a rapid pace. • First U.S. yarn mill was built in Pawtucket, Rhode Island, 1790. • Because of higher demand, yarn mills needed faster weaving, hence the first power loom in America in 1814. • The industry grew rapidly, with demand for goods far exceeding supply. 10/03/09 MFM -Batch 9/11

INTRODUCTION Thetermfabricisderivedfromthelatinterm meaningaworkshop. Fabricthereforereferstoany materialmadethroughweaving, knittingorbonding.

Itcanthusbeclassifiedonthemethodsof manufacturingas

•Woven •Knitted •Non-woven

:

fabrica

WOVEN CATEGORY Woven fabric is created by the interlacing of the warp fibres and weft fibresi n a regular pattern or a weave style. The integrity of the fabric is maintained by the interlocking of the fibres. The common weaves of a woven fabric are: • PLAIN: the warp and the weft are so aligned that they form a criss cross pattern. • TWILL: the crossing of the weft and the warp yarns areare offset to give a diagonal pattern. • SATIN: It is basically the twill weave which is modified to produce fewer intersections of warp and weft. • BASKET: Two warp fibers alternately interlace with two or more weft fibers. Examples: cotton , silk etc.

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NON WOVEN CATEGORY It is a sheet or a web structure, produced by interlocking layers or networks of fibres or filaments usually by a chemical bonding. Examples: tissue paper etc

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KNITTED CATEGORY It completely consists of horizontal parallel courses of a yarn. These courses are joined to each other by inter locking loops, where a short loop of one course of the yarn is wrappedo over another course.Knitted fabric is obtained either by a hand knitted process or by a machine. There are two types of knitted fabrics: • WEFT KNITTED-it is either done by hand or machine by looping together the lengths of a yarn.

• WARP KNITTED-it is made by machine only . the loops in this kind of fabrics interlock vertically along the length of the fabric.

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Centres of production Cotton /man-made fabric textile Maharashtra, Tamil Nadu & Gujarat Silk -Mysore-(75%) Assam(Sualkuchi is famous) Banaras,Murshidabad,Kanchipuram,surat Wollen-Punjab(40%) Haryana(27%) Rajasthan(10%) U.P,Maharashtra,Gujarat(23%) Jute-West Bengal-61jute mills Andhra Pradesh-7 U.P and Bihar -3 each Assam,Orissa,Tripura,M.P- 1 mill each

Centers of production world wide Cotton

Silk

Wool

Jute

China USA India

China Thailand USA

Australia China Mangolia

India Bangladesh China

Ownership in organized fabric manufacturing sector • Under government scheme- 16% • Co-orperatives - 10% • Privately owned - 74%

Government organizations • NTC - National Textile Corporation Limited was incorporated in April, 1968 to manage the affairs of the private sector sick textile mills. • TUFS- The Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme , is fund scheme to facilitate the modernization and up gradation of the textiles industry including fabric sector.

Co-operative owned sectors • Commercial handlooms- Mainly in T.N, A.P and U.P. Production in the handloom sector recorded a figure of 6947 million sq. meters in the year 2007-08.During 2008-09, production in the handloom sector is reported to be 6,677 million sq. meters. • Power looms- Contributes about 70% of the total cloth production of the country and provides employment to about 54.00 lakh people. This sector as whole produce 40%of nations output of cotton and 45% of blended cotton. Maharashtra, T.N and Gujarat have approx 77% of powerloom centres.

Privately owned sectors • House hold enterprises-Mainly concentrated in T.N, Maharashtra, Gujarat, U.P and Karnataka. • Looms are operated with the assistance of family members and fabric is sold in local markets.

Key players in India 

WithturnoverofUSD279millions, Specialisinginworstedfabric, wool andblendedfabric, stretchdenim fabric, cottonandlinenshirtingfabric, readymadegarments, woolenblanketsandhomefurnishings

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Annual turnoverofUSD231million, producessuitings, shirtings, sarees, towels, bedlinenandmen’s apparel. Significantexporterofpolycottonblendedfabricsandmadeups

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Annual

turnoverof USD338million,

exportstomorethan70countries.Producesdenimfabric, cotton

andblendedfabric, knittedfabric, voiles, apparel

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TurnoverofUSD400million&Significant presenceinacrylicfibre, cotton, syntheticandblendedspun yarns, greyandprocessedfabrics, cottonandsyntheticsewingthreads

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India’slargest exporterofreadymadegarments, havingturnoverofUSD180million Suppliestomorethan100retailersandfashionbrandsacross39countries

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Key players in India 

Leadingproducerofsilkyarnsandfabric(mainlyfordecorativeandbridal use), withannual turnoverof USD32million, alsointhebusinessofhomefurnishings.

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Amongstthetop3terrytowelproducersintheworld, withannual turnoverofUSD132million, production includescottonyarns, polyesterfilament yarn, bathrobes, buttonsandsawpipes.

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Belongstooneofthemost diversifiedbusinessgroupsinIndia(AdityaBirlaGroup)andhasturnoverof USD577million, specialisingintextileswhichincludeviscosefilamentyarnandbrandedapparel; other interestsincludeinsurance, telecom,IT, carbonblack

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HavingturnoverofUSD303million, companyisamajorproducerofpolyesteryarns, fabrics, garmentsandtextiles

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HasthelargestcompositetextilemillinIndiaforproducingcottonfabric HavingaturnoverofUSD95million, itsproductsincludeviscosefilamentyarn, viscose

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International Players

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 Indiahasarichrawmaterialbase,especiallycottonwhichhasseenimprovedproductivityinthecountryundertheCotton

There are several other industry specific advantages out of the unique nature of the industry in India Technoarising logyMission

 WidevarietyofcottonproducedIndia, makingIndiacapableofcateringtovarioussegmentsofworldtrade  Indianindustryhasabilitytohandledifferentmaterials-cotton, wool,silkandjutewithequalskill

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PositivedevelopmentsintheTextilePolicy

 GovtincentiveschemesoncottonexportslikeDEPB.  Fiscalanomaliesintermsofexcisedutystructureremoved

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Flexibilityinproduction

 Capabilitiesacrosstheentirevaluechainwithinthecountryreducesleadtimeforproductionandreducesintermediateshipping time

 Indiancompanieshaveflexibilityandskilledmanpowertohandlesmallorderswithcomplexdesigns

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Productdevelopmentanddesigncapabilities

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India has a cost advantage vis-à-vis competing countries SouthKorea

Costcompetitiveness

China

Yarn:USDperkgof yarn

Brazil India

Fabric:USDperyardof fabric

Open-endedyarn&fabric

Ringyarn&fabric 2.35

2.45 0.55

0.75

0.65

0.69

0.60

0.65

0.61

0.66

0.51 0.55 0.59

0.06

1.22

0.04

1.21

0.07 0.06

1.90 2.06

2.61

2.17

Wovenfabric

1.40

2.76

2.31

0.70

1.68

2.68

2.51

Yarn

Texturedyarn&fabric

1.21 1.12

0.18 0.14 0.20 0.21

Knittedfabric

•

India is cost competitive vis-à-vis competing countries in textile production, except in case of textured yarn and fabric

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Many foreign players have also entered India  Buyingandliaisonoffices

SynergiesIndia)account for35%oftotal textilessourcedfromIndia

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 Brandlicensing/ franchising

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 Manufacturing/ manufacturing cumretailing

Top10buyersinIndia(Gap, Wal-Mart, Li &Fung, TheChildren’sPlace, JCPenny, H&M,Federated, FifthAvenue, Carrefourand

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OthermajorcompaniesincludeEl Corte, Ecko, Kellwood, VFCorporation, Tesco, Next, Karstadt-Quelle

Brandlicensing-HugoBoss, TommyHilfiger, Mango, Lovable, Nike, Lacoste Masterfranchisee-Marks&Spencer, Crocodile

VFArvindBrands-joint venturebetweenArvindBrandsandVFCorporationtomanufactureandsell latter’sbrandsinIndia Benetton Levi Strauss Reebok CarremanMichel Thierry

Trends in fabric production

Items

Cotton

units

Million

1999- 2000- 2001- 2002- 2003-04 2004-05 2000 01 02 03

18989

19718

19769

19300

18040

20488

5913

6351

6287

5876

6068

6000

14306

14164

15978

16797

18275

18200

sq.mtr. Blended

Million sq.mtr.

100%Non-cotton (including Khadi, Wool & Silk)

Million sq.mtr.

Global Dimensions •

Post-quota period, a major sourcing destination for new buyers.

•

India's position in the global trade in textiles and clothing India's percentage share in global textiles and clothing trade was 4% in textiles, and 2.8% in clothing during the year 2007.

•

India's rank in world trade has been 7th in textiles and 6th in clothing.

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USA and the EU, account for about 2/3 of textiles exports.

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Current export scene •

•

• •

Exports – cotton yarn and fabrics, man-made yarn and fabrics, wool and silk fabrics exported to more than a hundred countries. Cotton fabrics -constitute more than 2/3rd of our exports of all fabrics … increase of 23.14% in 2007-08.. decline of 11.39% April –December’ 2008 Man-made fabrics: recorded an increase of 12.07% in 200607 over the exports during the previous year. Silk fabric –recorded a a decline of 6.88% in 2007-08 over the exports during the previous year.

Impact of global recession • Economic slow down in international markets • Liquidity crunch • Appreciation of Indian rupee vis-à-vis the US dollar in 2007-08 landed the fabric exports in a difficult situation • Increased cost of production due to increasing raw material costs ,power and other input costs which affected the profitability of textiles in India and their exports • India’s share in global textiles and clothing exports in 2007declined to 4% and 2.8%, respectively from 4.3% and 3.3% in 2006 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------• Government introduced two packages of duty concessions, tax and interest rebates in December, 2008 and January, 2009 to provide stimulus to the economy in general to combat the recession.

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