Historical Cultural Background Of Ck Bl

Historical & Cultural Background Of Chakwal

Submitted To: Madam Farhat Iftikhar Gill

Submitted By: Muhammad Tahreer Abbas 1st Semester MSc Pakistan Studies

October 2007

National Institute Of Pakistan Studies (NIPS) Quaid-e-Azam University Islamabad

2 INTRODUCTION Chakwal is almost 100km from Islamabad and 110km from Jhelum. Chakwal became a district of Rawalpindi division in 1985 by combining • • • •

Chakwal of district Jhelum Kallar Kahar of district Jehlum (Declared Tehsil recently) Talagang of district Attock Choa Saidan Shah, carved out of Tehsil Pind Dadan Khan, district Jhelum, and amalgamating it with sub-division Chakwal. Choa Saidan Shah was upgraded to the level of a sub-division in 1993.

The total area of district Chakwal is 6609 square kilometers, and as calculated in the 1998 census the total population is 1059451, 87.7% of which lives in rural areas and 12.3% in the urban areas, making Chakwal a rural district based on an agrarian economy with a very small industrial sector. Lying at the beginning of the Potohar plateau and the Salt Range, Chakwal is a barani district and the terrain is mainly hilly, covered with forest in the southwest, and levelled plains interspaced with dry rocky patches in the north and northeast. The tribes clans and castes that inhabit this area are the Awans, Rajputs, Mehr Minhas, Kahuts, Mughals, Gujars, Gondals, Syeds, Arains and the Sheikhs. The physical features of the district, its tribes, its society and its economy all combine to make Chakwal one of the main recruiting areas for the Army and the Air Force. Other main occupations of the people are agriculture and mining. Transport and poultry business is also important.

Tehsils of district Chakwal a. Chakwal Chakwal is lying 100 kilometers southwest of Islamabad on the Rawalpindi-Sargodha Road. The area it covers is 36 square kilometers. The occupation of the people residing in the city is business, commerce and commercial enterprise, though a large number of rural landlords and industrialists of Chakwal also live here. Some villages in tehsil Chakwal are Dhudial, Neela Dullha, Sayed, Turkwal, Mulhal Mughlan etc b. Talagang Talagang, 45 kilometers west of Chakwal on the Chakwal-Mianwali road, is the second largest town of the district, it covers an area of 26 square kilometers. The culture of Talagang is the same as that of Chakwal, though a little more rural. Some villages in tehsil Talagang are Budhial, Balkasar, Bhikari kalan, Lawa, Thoa Mahram Khan, Kot Sarang, Patowali, Bhatti Gujar etc c. Choa Saidan Shah Located 35 kilometers south of Chakwal on the Chakwal-Khewra Road, Choa Saidan Shah covers an area of 10 square kilometers. Choa saidan shah is the tehsil of Chakwal. Name given to this town in the name of a famous Sufi Sakhi Saidan Sherazi (RA). The town is placed in a bowl shaped valley, surrounded by lush green hills full of peacocks. Some villages in Tehsil Choa Saiden Shah are Watli, Kusak, Minhala Gujran, Shah Said Bulu, Dalwal, Dulmial, Katas, Malot, Titral, Wahula, Maghal etc d. Kallar Kahar Lying 30 miles southwest of Chakwal on the Chakwal-Sargodha road, Kallar Kahar has always been renowned throughout the country for its peacocks and its lake and for the Takht-e-Babri, a flat stage built of stone by emperor Babar to address his army while coming down from Kabul in the quest of the crown of Delhi. The town is surrounded by hills, promises to become a tourist attraction if properly developed. A museum of fossils of the area has also been built by the Archeology Department in the District Council

3 Rest House. Some villages in Tehsil Kallar Kahar are Buchal Kalan, Buchal Khurd, Miani, Gahi, Jhamara, Kahut, Munara, Manak Pur, Sardhi, Gufanwala, Chak Misri, Ransial etc HISTORY It is said that a man named Sudher Minhas had no childern. When Hazrat Baba Farid Gunj Shakar (RA) came to Kallar Kahar, Sudher visited him and asked him to pray for him . Baba Farid (RA) prayed for him and Allah bestowed him two sons who were named as Chaku Khan and Karehn. Chaku Khan founded Chakwal and Karehn founded a small village named as Karehn.As noted in District Gazeteer Jehlum 1904, the city is named after Chaudhry Chaku Khan, chief of the Mair Minhas Rajput tribe from Jammu, who founded it in 1525 during the period of the Mughal Emperor, Zaheerudin Baber.In 1881, during the British period, it was declared the Tehsil Headquarter. It was finally upgraded to district status in 1985 by the President Zia ul Haq. The area of Dhanni (Chakwal Tehsil) for a long time in history was an uninhabited part of the Jammu state of the Dogra, Rajputs. Although the powerful tribes like Ghakkars and Janjuas ruled the adjoining territories in Potohar, Kahoon valley and the ancient Thirchak Mahal, Dhanni remained a hunting ground for the Rajas of Jammu. Salt range came into being 600 million years ago when Thysis Ocean was trapped and subsequently evaporated by the collision of Indian plate with Asiatic plate leaving behind world's largest salt deposits. Nandana pass is up North the only place to cross the Salt Range since ancient time. Al- Bairuni the famous scientist of 11th century measured the circumference of the earth here at Nandana fort. The first Mughal Emperor Baber in 1519 ordered a garden to be laid out over looking the lake in Kallar Kahar. Famous Hindu Temple of Katas on a poolside sacred to the Hindu god Shiva and Malot Hindu Temples were built in Kashmiri Hindu style during 8th century. PROMINENT STATEMENTS ABOUT CHAKWAL  Every second person of Chakwal is a soldier and every third one is a poet (Professor Sher Muhammad Grewaal, History Dept, GC Lahore)  I am very pleased to visit this land of warriors and I pay tribute to this nation (Quaid-e-Azam Muhammad Ali Jinnah 1946)  This (Kallar Kahar) is child of Kashmir. (Zaheerud Din Baber)  I wish to work in area of Chakwal because this area is heaven for Archeologists. (Dr Saif-urRehman Daar, Director general Archeology Dept)  The residents of Chakwal are hardworking, patriot and nice people. It looks like that half residents of country belong to Chakwal. (Dr Abdul Qadeer Khan. Daily News, 1st June 1998)  Islamabad is not Pakistan. Actually Pakistan is here in Chakwal. (Col (R) S K Tresler. Federal Minister of Heritage and Tourism, 4th Feburary 2001) GEOGRAPHICAL EXISTANCE OF CHAKWAL District Chakwal is bordered by the districts of Rawalpindi and Attock in the north, district Jhelum in the east, district Khushab in the south and district Mianwali in the west. The total area of district Chakwal is 6609 square kilometers, and as calculated in the 1998 census the total population is 1059451, 87.7%% of which lives in rural areas and 12.3% in the urban areas, making Chakwal a predominantly rural district pivoted on an agrarian economy with a very small industrial sector. ARCHEOLOGICAL ATTRACTIONS IN CHAKWAL Fossils, tools, coins, and remains of ancient archaeological sites prove significant importance of this area. Chakwal is considered as heaven according to archeological point of view. Following are note-worthy archaeological attractions of Chakwal.

4  SINGHAPURA  KATAS RAJ  MALOT FORT  SHIWAYA SUB GANGA  BAGH-E-SAFA  TAKHT-E-BABRI  KUSAK FORT  NANDANA FORT  BHAUN TEMPLES  AANSOO LAKE  GANDHALA

TAKHT-E-BABRI Kallar Kahar is known for Takht-e-Babri, a flat stage built of stone by emperor Babar to address his army while coming down from Kabul in the quest of the crown of Delhi. This platform was carved out of a single rock by the artisans of Babar’s Army. CHILLAGAAHS Near Kallar Kahar lake Chillagaah of renowned saints Hazrat Baba Farid Gunj Shakar (RA) and Hazrat Sultan Bahu (RA) is located. It is said that Baba Farid stayed near Bagh-e-Safa at the hill where shrine of Hazrat Ahoo Bahu (RA) is located. SHRINE OF HAZRAT AHOO BAHU (RA) Shrine of famous saint Hazrat Ahoo Bahu (RA) is also present here which is visited by a lot of people all around the year. Hazrat Ahoo Bahu (RA) was grandson of Hazrat Abdul Qadir Jailani (RA) MALOT FORT The location of the Malot fort is about 15 kilometers westward form Katas. Here, on a hilltop is the ancient fort, which was built around 980AD. It is said that over here the last Hindu Shahi Raja Mal embraced Islam. In days gone-by the town and fort of Malot covered and area of over 5square kilometers. Two Hindu temples, which are located here, are beautiful specimens of ancient Kashmir architecture. The Malot temples, built of local red sand stones of salt range mountains, are located on the road leading to Malot village near Choi village. The road is linked with main Kallar Kahar road from where it turns from Karuli Chowk towards Malot via Pakistan cement factory and Choi village along with coalmines. It is 12 kilometers away from Kallar Kahar in the east. The Malot was also called Namrod and Ramrod. The name is after the King of MalDev or Malu. The Rajput history claims its name Malot from the word Malik-Kot,

5 as they believed that the title of Malik was given to the one who accepted annexation to the Muslim King of Delhi although in reward the Malik enjoyed the autonomous status with full sovereignty in the assigned area. The Mughal King Baber’s travelogue “Tuzk-e-Babri” attests to the corollary of Malik-Kot, Mal-Kot and then Malot. The Brahman Bali Hindus till 1947 looked after the two present temples. They frequently visited the Guru of Bali Hindus, Guru Tarlok Nath shrines. In the year 1527 Daulat khan the royal forces of Mughal king Babur, to surrender, forced Lodhi. Mahan Singh, father of Maharaja Ranjit singh, also built a small fort here at Malot in early 19th century. Alexander Cunningham wrote in his report for the Archaeological Survey of India in 1872-3, "The only remains of any antiquity at Malot are a temple and gateway in the Kashmirian style of architecture. They are built of a coarse sandstone of various shades of ochreous red and yellow, and many parts have suffered severely from the action of the weather, the surface having altogether crumbled away...The temple is a square of 18 feet inside, with a vestibule or entrance porch on the east towards the gateway. The gateway is...a massive building...divided into two rooms...On each side of these rooms to the north and south there are highly decorated niches for the reception of statues, similar to those in the portico of the temple. These niches are covered by trefoil arches which spring from flat pilasters. Each capital supports a statue of a lion under a half trefoil canopy...The roof is entirely gone; but judging from the square shape of the building, I conclude that it must have been pyramidal, outside with flat panelled ceilings of overlapping stones." Photograph of the temple and gateway in Kashmiri style at Malot, Jhelum District, taken by Joseph David Beglar in the 1870s. KATAS TEMPLES The Hindu sacred place “Katas” is located in the salt range at a distance of 18 miles in the south of Chakwal. The mention of Katas is found in “Maha Bharat” which was written in 300 BC. The etymology of this place as narrated in the old edition of “Tarikh-e-Jhelum” is that according to Brahaman’s belief, Shiv Devta wept so profusely on the death of his beloved wife Satti that two holy ponds one at Pushkar of Ajmair and other at Katak Shell came into being with his tears. In Sanskrit, the word “Katak Shell” means chain of tears, which later on was pronounced as “Katas”. According to Gen. Cunningham, Katas was considered the second largest holy place in Punjab for Hindu pilgrims after the Jawala Mukhi. It is said that famous Pando brothers spent 12 years in Katas and built the temples of Satghara. It is said that Al-Bairuni also spent some period at Katas to learn Sanskrit in a linguistic university, which, at that time, was established here. During his stay at Katas and Nandana Fort, Al-Bairuni wrote a famous book “Kitab-ul-Hind” which depicted the religion, scientific knowledge, and social customs of Hindus. Al-Bairuni during his stay at Katas not only learned Sanskrit but also performed various geographic experiments and eventually succeeded in discovering the radius of the earth. The Pandavas, it is believed, constructed these temples. Efforts are being made to restore and renovate these temples. There are also cave-type structures near the temples that, it is believed, were used for meditation purposes. At a short distance from the temple, there is also the haveli of Hari Singh Nalwa, who used to be a General in the Army of Maharaja Ranjit Singh. The place is mentioned in Maha Bharat and according to Hindu religious belief; both Katas and the Paskar (Ajmer) are the eyes of Shiva. Paras Nath Jogi breathed his last here. Guru Nanak also visited Katas. It was the abode of contemplation for larger groups of mystics and Jogies. According to Gen Cunningham, Katas was considered the second largest holy place in Punjab for Hindu pilgrims after Jawala Mukhi. It is said famous Pando brothers spent 12 years in Katas and built the temples of Satghara. Temples at Katas have been transferred from the federal government to the Punjab Archaeology Department recently. AANSOO LAKE The lake in the Katas Raj Temple complex is the setting for many stories about the Pandavas in Maha Bharat. During their exile, the Pandava brothers came upon the lake and were about to drink from the water when a Yaksha (protecting spirit of the lake) appeared and said that only people who correctly answered his

6 questions could drink from the lake. The four Pandavas failed the test and were killed by the Yaksha. However the fifth brother, Yudhishtar, used mystical knowledge to answer the questions and brought his brothers back to life. The lake is still said to have magical powers. The Etymology of this place as narrated in the old edition of "Tarikh-e-Jhelum" is that according to Brahaman's belief, Shiv Devta wept so profusely on the death of his beloved wife Satti that two holy pounds one at Pushkar of Ajmair and other at Katak shell came into being with his tears. In Sanskrit, the word "Katak shell" means chain of tears that later on was pronounced "Katas". SARDHI Sardhi is located in west of Kallar Kahar. It is almost 14 km from Kallar Kahar. In Sardhi there are still some buildings that were left by Hindus during partition of Sub-Continent. They show the architecture of that era. SINGHAPURA It is said that this city located in the valley of Gandhala close to Choa Sadien Shah was the capital of the Buddhist State of Singhapura and a Buddhist university was located here. Now the only remains of the city are the relics of Ashok’s Stupa and the nearby sacred Moorti Hill. SHIWAYA SUB GANGA Subganga is about 5 kilometers from Malot. At Subganga near village Dalwal there is Buddhist temple made of red sand-sand near a beautiful pond. The building contains arches and paramedical mouldings bearing carvings of animals. Relics belonging to the age of Alexander the great have been found here. THE KUSAK FORT This fort lies on the narrow top of a hillock in southern part of the Salt Range about 10 kilometers from Choa Sadien Shah. Maharaja Singh is said to have besieged this fort till the Janjua Sardar, Sultan Fateh Muhammad Khan surrendered to him. BHAUN TEMPLES There are temples in Bhaun that belong to Hindus and Sikhs who left them at the time of partition of Sub Continent. In Bhaun animal and plants fossils dating back to thousands of years have been discovered. Remains of a number of ancient cities built during the period of Alexander and Rana Syedan have been discovered near Bhaun and Bhapur. KALLAR KAHAR FOSSIL MUSEUM With the construction of the Motorway that passes by the edge of the lake, the number of tourists visiting Kallar Kahar has increased manifold, and the town surrounded by verdant hills, promises to become a tourist attraction if properly developed. A museum of fossils of the area has also been built by the Archeology Department in the District Council Rest House. GUN(DULMIAL) There is a famous saying that every second person of area is a soldier (and every third one is a poet). The only option available to the spirited and rugged people of the area famous for martial traditions was service in the armed forces. An actual artillery gun awarded to a valiant soldier Subedar Gul Muhammad of Dulmial in the Second World War mounted on a platform in front of his village is testimony to the fact. The gun is one of the only two such awards in the world.In the 2nd world war about 500 men participated from this village. This was the only village in Asia that was awarded by the gun.

7 BAGH-E-SAFA Here, over-looking a natural lake, is the Bagh-e-Safa, a vast orchard planted by the Mughal emperor Babar which is supposed to be the first orchard in the Mughal tradition NANDANA FORT It is said that Al-Bairuni also spent some period at Katas to learn Sanskrit in a linguistic university, which, at that time, was established here. During his stay at Katas and Nandana Fort, Al-Bairuni wrote a famous book “Kitab-ul-Hind” which depicted the religion, scientific knowledge, and social customs of Hindus. Al-Bairuni during his stay at Nandana fort (Katas) not only learned Sanskrit but also performed various geographic experiments and eventually succeeded in discovering the radius of the earth. CULTURE OF CHAKWAL Dress Men, Women and Children of Chakwal wear very simple dress. Men generally wear shalwar Kumeez or Dhoti Kurta, a turban on special occasion, with Chappals, Khusas or Sandles . In the winter months they add a coat, sweater or a Dhussa with it. The more educated class also wear shirts with trousers, adding a coat in the winters. Young boys can be seen wearing jeans and shirts occasionally. Women almost invariably wear Shalwar Kameez with Dopatta, and a woolen Shawl or Sweater in the winter. Sarhis or western dresses are never worn. Footwear consists of Chappals or Sandals. On occasions of festivity the Kameez and Dopatta are heavily embroidered. Ornaments of gold and silver are also worn depending on the occasion and the financial position. Customs and Traditions The culture of Chakwal is primarily based on the way of living as taught in Islam; but owing to the fact that Chakwal before independence was an area where a large number of Hindus lived, it is influenced by Hindu rites, rituals and even ideas. The ceremonies of mayun and mehndi, the extravagant expenditures made on feasting guests at death, the hosting of a lavish meal by the bride’s parents on the barat, large dowries for brides, the belief that parents must not stay in the houses of their married daughters, and melas at the mausoleums of pirs are all of Hindu origin. Besides this, the people of Chakwal live a simple and straight life as enjoined by their religion. Agriculture Farming is the main occupation of the people of Chakwal. With the exception of a few large landholders in subdivision Talagang, Holdings are small in the district and farming is conventional, though new techniques and the Barani Agricultural Institute Chakwal is introducing methods. The farmers have also begun to use fertilizer and pesticides; and capital intensive, time saving inputs like tractors and harvesters, are being used eversince their introduction in the country. The total area of the district is 1652443 acres, and the total cultivated area is 786212 acres. The main crops of the district are: Wheat, Peanut, Bajra, Grams, Masoor, Mash, Maize, Jawar, Vegetables Fruit orchards, especially of citrus, have also been planted by farmers but only on small areas owing to shortage of water. Fair sized Loquat orchards exist in Kallar Kahar and Choa Saiden Shah. SHRINES Chakwal has been frequented by a number of saints who came here to spread Islam. Mausoleums and shrines of these holy men were built after their death by the followers. The more important of these shrines are: Chillagaah, Hazrat Sultan Bahu, Kallar Kahar. Darbar, Hazrat Ahoo Bahoo, Kallar Kahar Darbar, Sakhi Saidan Shah Shirazi, Choa Saidan Shah Chillagaah, Hazrat Baba Farid Gunj Shakar, Kallar Kahar

8 Darbar Pattalian Darbar Alawal Sharif Darbar Pir Waliat Shah, Karsal Darbar Pir Khara Sharif SWEETS Chakwal is renowned for its special PEHLWAN REWRI. At Eid and other celebrations Halwa has a special importance. MARTIAL TRADITIONS Chakwal is known for furnishing some of the finest soldiers to the British and later on to the Pakistan Army. It is a remarkable fact that the first native Indian to get Victoria Cross, Subedar Khudadad Khan, the first Indian to get commissioned and to become a General in British Indian Army, Muhammad Akbar Khan, the first Indian Commander of Cavalry, Brigadier Gen. Muhammad Zafar, the first Engineer in Chief of the Pakistan Army, General Muhammad Anwar Khan and the great General Iftikhar Khan, who was designated to become the first local Cnc of the Pakistan army but died in an unfortunate aircrash all belonged to Chakwal. It is also a worth mentioning fact that the later four were all real brothers and belonged to famous Mair-Minhas tribe of Chakwal. After the creation of Pakistan, Chakwal has produced more Army men and Generals than any other city in the country which includes valiant Generals like Tajmmal Hussain Malik and a long list of officers mentioned in the list that follows. Generals and Decorated Officers Only • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

General Muhammad Akbar Khan, First Muslim Officer/General of British/Pakistan Army General Muhammad Iftikhar Khan(Designated to become the first CnC of the Pakistan Army, died in an aircash in 1949) General Muhammad Anwar Khan (First EnC of the Pakistan Army) Brigadier Muhammad Zafar (First Indian Commander of Cavalry) Air Marshal Nur Khan Tamman Lt General Abdul Majid Malik (former Federal Minister) General Abdul Qayyum General Muhammad Farooq Malik (DG Artillery) General P.D. Khan General Abdul Razzaq Khan General Faiz Jilani (retired) Major General Muhammad Muzaffar Kahut (Chief Pathologist AFIP) General R D Bhati General Tajjamul malik General Ashraf Janjua General Safdar, Former Governor Punjab (Dulmial) General Dr Riaz Chohan General Nazeer Hussain General Dr Asad Malik General Sheraz Lodhi

9 • • • • • • • • •

General Dr Shahida Malik Genereal Imtiaz Shaheen General Afzal Muzzafar General Mehboob ul Muzaffar General Yaqoob Chaudhry Maj. Gen. Syed Mujtaba Hasan Shah Hamdani (Reena Sadat) Air Vice Marshal Altaf Hussain Shah Subedar Khudadad Khan, Victoria Cross Subedar Muhammad Shah Kahut , Victoria Cross