Gambell, Alaska 2003 High Lonesome Ecotours Trip Report May

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Gambell, Alaska 2003 High Lonesome Ecotours Trip Report May 24 – June 6, 2003 Gambell, Saint Lawrence Island, Alaska by Phil Davis Davidsonville, Maryland

1. Introduction. This year marked the fifth birding trip to western Alaska for my wife (Barbara Davis) and me. This year we traveled to Gambell for 14 days with brief stays in Anchorage and Nome on the way to and from Gambell. Barbara and I served as birding leaders for two one-week Gambell spring trips for High Lonesome Ecotours. The first group (“Gambell-2”) ran from May 26 to May 31 and the second group (“Gambell-3”) ran from June 1 to June 6. [An earlier “Gambell-1” tour was scheduled as an experiment, but was consolidated due to low signups.] After flying to Anchorage on May 22 and birding there for a day, Barbara and I connected through Nome for Gambell on May 24, arriving two days ahead of the main group and met up with our other leader, David MacKay. Our first group of 11 participants arrived the morning of May 26. Barbara and I departed Gambell with the second group on June 6. During this 14-day period, we shared the island with other birding groups, including VENT (Kevin Zimmer, David Wolfe, et al.), WINGS (Jon Dunn, Gary Rosenberg, Paul Holt, et al.), Wilderness Birding Adventures [WBA] (Bob Dittrick, James Huntington, Aaron Lang, Dave Sonneborne, et al.), a group from Minnesota (Kim Risen, et al.), and “independent birders—Brad Benter (USFWS – Anchorage, AK), Randall Davis (AK), and Luke Cole (San Francisco, CA). Other independent birders arrived on the island the day we left.

2. The Weather and the Environment. Winds. For the most of the early part of our two weeks, the winds at Gambell generally prevailed from the west and south, with components from the north and northeast on various days. Average daily winds ranged from 5 mph to a high of 28 mph. Sustained wind velocity during the period ranged from calm to 35 mph, with gusts to 39 mph. On 5/25, a low pressure area (988 mb) moved out of the Gulf of Anadyr towards a position 120 nm south of Gambell. On 5/26-27, it was situated 50 miles southeast of Gambell moving across the Bering Sea toward a position 200 miles northwest of Barrow, bringing southwest and south winds to St. Lawrence Island. (Another High Lonesome Ecotours group was on Saint Paul Island in the Pribiloffs the week before our Gambell-2 and they were subjected to strong southwest winds for the entire period, bringing up to 17 species of Asian rarities).

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Temperatures. During the period 5/24 – 6/6, the Gambell temperatures ranged from a low of 28 (F) to a high one day of 55. In general, the temperature was mild (for Gambell), typically in the 30s or 40s; however, the constant and generally strong winds frequently dropped the wind chill into the 20s, occasionally even into the teens. Visibility. Most of the period was overcast with little long-range visibility toward Russia. The coast and 4,000 foot mountains of the Russian Chukota Peninsula were only visible for about two days during the period. Snow Cover. When we arrived, the snow cover was “moderate” on the birdable areas of the island. A significant snow storm on 5/26 covered the boneyards and drifting snow hampered travel at the south end of Troutman Lake for several days. After a few days, however, the entire Gambell birding area was accessible including most of the South Lake and the tundra beyond it. Lake Ice. Troutman Lake was totally frozen upon our arrival and experienced little thawing around the edges during the two-week period. The area of most clearing was where the near marsh emptied into Troutman Lake. South Lake was initially frozen, but began to open in the middle during the second week. Bering Sea Pack Ice. No ice was present when we arrived. On one day, ice was present on the north and west sides of the island. Staff and Participants. Our Gambell-2 tour included 11 participants and three leaders/staff: David MacKay (Sonora, Mexico)—who also cooked—and Barbara and Phil Davis (Davidsonville, Maryland). Our Gambell-3 tour included 8 participants and three leaders: David MacKay with Barbara and Phil Davis. Two participants (Carl Sheeley and Linda Stewart of Louisiana) participated on both Gambell-2 and -3.

3. The Birding. General. During our stay, the winds at Gambell began from northerly directions for about four days and then shifted mostly to the south and southeast for about a week, then shifted back to the north for the last few days. These varied winds probably contributed to the mix of both Alaskan mainland species (Hermit Thrush, Varied Thrush, Yellow-rumped Warbler, Redhead, American Pipit, Pine Siskin, and Tree Swallow) along with Asian vagrants (Siberian Rubythroat, Stonechat, an Asian form of Merlin, Wood Sandpiper, variegatus Whimbrel, Common Sandpiper, Eyebrowed Thrush, Olivebacked Pipit, and Hawfinch). Some of the more likely and expected western Alaska specialties present included Great Knot, Common-ringed Plover, Red-thoated Pipit, Red-neck Stint, Arctic Warbler, Northern Wheatear, Bluethroat, White Wagtail, and Brambling.

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Birding Areas. The birding areas we covered on the island included the following: the “near bone yard”, the “far boneyard”, the “circular boneyard”, Northwest Point (aka, “sea watch”), the cliffs, the north and west beaches, the boat yard, the walrus “pull out area”, “old town”, the “near marsh”, Troutman Lake, the hillsides above and below the lake road, the hillside between the far bone yard and the cliffs, the “far marsh”, the runway road, the south end of Troutman Lake (including the ponds, and grassy areas), the gravel ponds, the berms, South Lake, the tundra east of South Lake, and the rocky outcroppings at the beach at the south end of South lake. Trip List. A daily trip list of species seen is provided as a separate document.

4. Notable Species. Accounts of notable Asian, western Alaskan, Alaska mainland, and Saint Lawrence Island species are presented, below. Loons (general): When we arrived on this island on 5/24, no loons had been seen by the birders present (Brad Benter and Randall Davis). That evening, we spotted the first Gambell loon of the season, a Pacific Loon. Arctic Loon. Our first Arctic Loon was not seen until 5/31. Only about four birds were seen by our group between 5/31 and 6/4. Yellow-billed Loon. Yellow-billeds were also in short supply this year. Our first was observed on 5/27 and our last was on 6/4. Total numbers observed were small, probably less than six. Horned Grebe. Uncommon for Gambell, two alternate plumaged Horned Grebes were observed close-by on 5/24 in the Bering Sea near the rocky outcropping near the south end of South Lake. Emperor Goose. We observed more Emperor Geese this year than the previous two years. Small flocks were observed as fly-bys along the coast and two were observed one day on the ground at the south end of Troutman Lake. Snow Goose. Small flocks of Snow Geese were observed flying near the point on several days (5/26 and 6/3). Tundra Swan. Several were observed flying over Gambell near the end of the period (6/2, 6/4, and 6/6). Green-winged Teal. Several North American Green-winged Teal (A. c. carolinensis) and Common Teal (A. c. crecca) were identified during the period, mostly in the near marsh.

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Redhead. On 6/5, a single female Redhead was observed in the center of South Lake. The bird was studied well, since it was not an expected species. Tufted Duck. On 6/4, four “scaup-like” ducks were observed in the center of South Lake; three females and one male. While the birds were distant and heat shimmer was a factor, the male exhibited a black back, characteristic of a Tufted Duck. Leader, David MacKay, noted that the posture seemed erect for Greater Scaup. [Note: we found out later that Dave Sonneborne observed and reported Tufted Duck(s) on this same morning, but I do not know the number of birds involved.] Steller’s Eider. This species was seen most days during the period, both as fly-bys and, many times, swimming in the sea at close range. Some flocks ranged as high as a dozen birds. Spectacled Eider. A first-year male floated by in the sea off of the north beach on 5/28, 5/29, and 6/2. A female was present in the water on 6/1. No flybys were observed. King Eider. This species was common during the period. Common Eider. Many Common Eiders were also seen throughout the period. White-winged Scoter. Several White-winged Scoters were seen as fly-bys from the point on various days. Larger flocks of 10-12 were found in the water off the west beach south of the end of the runway. All were carefully inspected to see if any Asian Whitewinged Scoters were present (M. f. stejnegeri). None were found. Black Scoter. Several were seen as fly-bys at the point. Merlin. A pale Merlin (Asian subspecies) was found by another group in the far boneyard on 6/4. The bird was also seen by members of our group on 6/5 near the cliffs. Sandhill Crane. Flocks of Sandhill Cranes were seen most days either as fly-bys at the point or over Troutman Lake. Birds were also seen on the ground in south tundra and near the circular boneyard. Mongolian Plover. On 5/27, two (a pair?) were found at the south end of the near boneyard. They stayed in this area for three days, through 5/29. Common Ringed Plover. This species arrived on May 29 and was present until we left the island on 6/6. The birds were mostly seen at the culvert at the south end of Troutman Lake but also were seen in the vicinity of the near boneyard. The total number of birds present at any one time may have been as high as 3 or 4. Gray-tailed Tattler. On 6/2, a bird was observed at the near marsh. On 6/5 another (or the same?) bird was seen in the same area.

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Common Sandpiper. A single Common Sandpiper was observed feeding from a whale bone in the boat yard on 5/27. On subsequent days, two birds were then present in the same area for most of the period and were also seen occasionally in the dump. On 6/4, several birds flew in from the Bering Sea and landing on the gravel at the point. Whimbrel. On 6/2, a hudsonicus Whimbrel first landed at the point and then flew south, down the west beach. Later that same day, a variegatus form was seen on the tundra behind South Lake. Another hudsonicus was seen on 6/5. Great Knot. A sub-adult Great Knot was seen on the mountain-side edge of Troutman Lake on 5/30. Red-necked Stint. A Red-necked Stint was seen in the South Marsh on 5/30 and 5/31. Another bird was seen on the mountain side above the lake road on 6/3. Others were seen from 6/4 through 6/5. Red Phalarope. Large numbers (>100) of Red Phalaropes were notable along the transition waters “scum line” at the point on several days. Jaegers. Jaegers were present in small numbers with most birds being Pomarine. A few Parasitics and Long-taileds were also seen. Black-headed Gull. A single bird in alternate plumage was seen flying over the runway on 5/25. Slaty-backed Gull. Several first and second year birds were seen on various days at the point, the dump, and on Troutman Lake. Glaucous-winged Gull. Several first-year birds were present near the end of the period, from 6/4 through 6/6. sterna tern. A sterna tern was sighted on 5/27. Dovekie. On 5/29 multiple birds were located roosting on the cliffs, affording great looks to all. Our group observed up to five birds at one time on various days through 6/6. Another birding group (WBA) reported a high count of 12 birds at once. No specific breeding behavior was noted. (US Fish and Wildlife Service personnel are interested in any observations of breeding behavior for this species). Black Guillemot. This species was seen only near the cliffs, in small numbers, during the period 5/25 though 5/30. Horned Puffin. This species arrived at Gambell on 5/28.

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Tree Swallow. On 6/5, a single Tree Swallow was observed perched and flying in the vicinity of the near marsh. Arctic Warbler. On 6/5, a brightly colored Arctic Warbler was seen in the far boneyard. Siberian Rubythroat. On 5/28-29, an adult male was present on the hillside above the far boneyard. On 6/3 another duller bird (first year male?) was present in the boatyard and on 6/5 one was present near the far boneyard. Bluethroat. A single bird was seen in the near boneyard on 5/27. Northern Wheatear. Several birds were present at various locations during the period 5/25 through 6/4. Stonechat. On 5/30, Kim Risen (Minnesota) found a first year male in the rocks on the mountainside just above the lake road. No one else had seen the bird before it disappeared. A concerted search of the mountain side was not successful until Barbara Davis refound the bird back near the original location. Virtually everyone on the island got to see the bird. On 6/3, another bird— an adult male—was seen above the far boneyard. (Image of the first [immature male] Stonechat, left, by David MacKay). Gray-cheeked Thrush. Several of this species were present during the second week (6/1-6/5) at various locations. Hermit Thrush. At least two Hermit Thrushes were present in the near boneyard between 5/30 and 6/5. Eyebrowed Thrush. A pair was present when we arrived on the island on 5/24 on the mountainside north of the far boneyard. One or two more pair was also found along the lake road and in the near boneyard until 5/30. Another sighting in the near boneyard occurred on 6/5. Varied Thrush. At least two birds were observed—one on 5/27 in the boatyard and another sighting on 5/30 high on the mountain side above the lake road. Yellow Wagtail. This species seemed to arrive on 5/30 and various flyovers and perched birds were seen on and off until we left the island. White Wagtail. Another group reported a flyby heading from the South Marsh toward the far boneyard, along the lake road, on 6/1. Later that evening, we found a White Wagtail on the ground at the point. [On later days, a White Wagtail was reported primarily in the near boneyard; however, this bird was described as either a hybrid or a Black-backed Wagtail. This observer never saw this second bird.]

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Olive-backed Pipit. On 6/4, two birds were seen in the boatyard. Red-throated Pipit. Several birds were seen on various days (5/29 and 6/1-2). Yellow-rumped Warbler (Myrtle). An adult male was seen in the boatyard on 6/5. McKay’s Bunting. An adult female was seen on 5/25 and an adult male was seen from 5/26 through 5/27 in the near boneyard. Brambling. This species was observed most days in the various boneyards and the boat yard. Up to seven at once were reported by another group. Hoary Redpoll. Redpolls were numerous this year. The majority of the redpolls present were Hoary’s. Common Redpoll. On June 4th, David MacKay spotted and photographed a Common Redpoll nesting in the end of a pipe inside the fence at the old tanks at the north end of South Lake. Reports of redpolls nesting on St. Lawrence Island are unusual. (Image, left, by David MacKay). Pine Siskin. A single Pine Siskin was seen with a flock of redpolls in the boatyard on 6/3. Hawfinch. One or more Hawfinches were present near Gambell on various days, but were quite flighty. One bird was seen by members of our group on 6/3.

5. Misses. No Ross’s or Ivory Gulls were seen this year.

6. Departure. We experienced no departure delays this year.

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