Free Deer Stand Plans

Free Deer Stand Plans Visit www.Deer-Stands.net for more deer stands and more free deer stand plans. Disclaimer: Use this information at your own risk. By reading the information provided below, you are forfeiting any legal actions or litigations against me, my company, my family, my dog, or anyone else. Nobody will be held responsible, or be legally liable, or be accountable in any way shape or form for the use or misuse of any information in any instance. You assume all risks during construction and use. These constructions have not been tested and I make no claim to their safety or integrity. Table Of Contents:

1. Tree Stand 2. Ladder Stand 3. Box Blind

“Always wear a safety harness.”

Tree Stand

(Note: Bow rack not part of plans.)

Material List 3/4" Square Steel Tubing Letters correspond to labels on pcs in pic A 2 pcs 29" (these to be bent to make the sides of the base of the stand) E 2 pcs 38" (these to be bent to make the sides that the hooks and seat are on) B 5 pcs 18 1/2" (for standing platform) C 1 pc 17 3/8" (angles to be cut on ends to make final pc of standing platform) D 1 pc 7 3/4" (angles to be cut on ends to tie ends of standing platform together) Other Steel etc. H 2 pcs 1-1/2" X 3/16" angle 1" long G 2 pcs 2" X 3/16" flat 2-1/4" long F 1 pc 2" X 3/16" flat 8-7/8" long 2 pcs 3/4" X 1/8" flat 19" long to be bent for seat supports 1 pc 3/4" plywood or equivalent 8" X 15" for seat Hardware 2 bolts 5/16 X 2 1/2 2 bolts 5/16 X 2 4 bolts 1/4 X 1 1/2 4 countersink machine screws 1/4 X 1 1/2 2 pcs light chain 19" long 2 Stainless steel S hooks 5/16 X 3" Paint My guess is that if you have the skills to construct the stand that you could probably take it from here. The two side pcs labeled "A" which are 29" long have to be bent to 26 deg at a point 14" from the front of the stand. Drill 1/4" holes side to side and 7" from the end that touches the tree in each pc. The two side pcs labeled "E" which are 38" long have to be bent to 16 deg at a point 14" from the front of the stand. Drill 1/4" holes side to side and 9" from the end that touches the tree in each pc. and 5/16" holes 3/4" from front of stand and centered up and down The pc of 2" X 3/16 flat labeled "F" needs to angled off on each end so that short side is 7 3/4" Pcs of 2" X 3/16" flat 2 1/4" long (labeled G) need 5/16 holes drilled 5/8" down from top and 1/2" from the front. Matching holes to be drilled in angle pcs labeled H. Spacing between pcs labeled B is 3" center to center (2 1/4" gap)

The seat supports will be very difficult to describe and may take some trial and error on your part. They are made from the 2 pcs of 3/4" X 1/8" flat 19" long. My notes say clamp in vise 2" from end and leaning over 15 deg. Bend forward with hammer roughly 40 deg. Then move up in vise another 7" still sitting at a 15 deg angle (from vertical) and bend around 75 deg backward. Then move up another 8" leaving 2" in vise and repeat as above bending around 40 deg forward. The second seat support will need to be the mirror image of the above. Confusing? I'm sure! Took me a while to figure it out. Let me know if I can help. Seat is cut so that it is 15" wide on front and 12" in back. Radius as desired. Should be obvious from the pics how the S hooks need to be bent and bolted on. Also how seat bolts on etc.

Ladder Stand

These ladder stand plans will require a few tools and skills that some of us may need to enlist the help of others to provide. The main item here is a tig or a mig welder and a portable grinder for cutting and cleaning pieces. The welding here is critical unless you want to test your harness. We are using light wall tube that is not easily welded with

stick. These plans use a mig with .023 solid wire and an argon/c02 mix. Start by cutting all of the materials to length. Cut the longest pieces first and work your way to the smallest in order to minimize waste. Use an angle grinder with a “Zip” disc. A hacksaw will do also, but that's a lot of cutting. Once you have all the pieces cut and laid out, square them up and clamp or hold them some way so you can start tack welding. After all sections are tacked, you can fully weld. Test fit the sleves before welding. Make certain that you can strap the stand to the tree securely. For added strength, you may want to add a brace about 4 feet up the tree.

Box Blind Materials List: (12) 12' 2x4's, (one for the (3) 35" roof rafters and the 34" piece for the back) (4) 16' 4x4's (3) 8' 2x6's (3) 8' 2x4's (3) 4'x8' sheets 3/8" plywood (2) 80 lb bags or (4) 40 lb bags of Quikrete Nails, Screws, Hinges, and Hasp Basics Of Design: Legs: (4) 16' 4x4's Leg Cross Braces: (8) 12' 2x4's Floor Joists: (4) 2x6's 45" long, (2) 2x6's 4' long Floor: (2) 1/2 sheets 3/8" plywood (48" square), cut 3 3/4" square out of each corner. Sides: (4) pieces of 3/8" plywood 34"'x45", one will be cut up later to make a door Roof Supports: (4) 2x4's 48" long Roof Rafters: (3) 2x4's 35" long, (2) 2x4's 48" long Roof: (2) pieces of 3/8" plywood 28"x48" (the scraps from cutting the sides out of (2) full sheets) Ladder: (2) 12' 2x4's, (8) 2x4's 16" long (can be cut from (1) 12' 2x4, with one piece to spare) Instructions: Build ladder with 16" spacing to the top of each step, measuring from the bottom. Set posts in ground 2 foot deep in concrete 45" between outside corners. Nail on diagonal cross braces, one set inside, one set outside, all the way around. Nail on floor joists 10' above the ground, use (2) 45" and (2) 48" to make a 48" square. Nail on the last (2) floor joists 16" on center in the middle of the floor frame. Drop in first floor piece and screw it down. Drop in second floor piece and screw it down. This gives a 3/4" floor without wasting half a sheet of 3/4" plywood. Put up both sides and the front, they should go corner to corner of the 4x4's and set on top of the floor, leave the back open for now. Cut off the 4x4's even with the top of the sides. Nail the roof supports to the insides of the 4x4's so that the tops are 6' above the floor. Nail the roof rafters to the tops of the roof supports, use (2) 48" pieces and (2) 35" pieces

to make a rectangle 48"x38". Nail the last 38" roof rafter in the center of the roof frame turned flat. Screw the (2) pieces of the roof on top of the frame with the joint on the flat 2x4 in the center. To make the door, cut the back piece into (2) pieces, one 34"x21", one 34"x24" (the door), and hinge it at the cut. You'll need (2) more 2x4's, one 34" long, one 16" long, to make the frame for the nonopening part of the back. You'll have to angle nail these two pieces to the floor and the 4x4 in the corner. The door will close against the outside of the 4x4 in the other corner. A hasp wrapped around the corner will keep the door closed.