Understanding Juju Cosmetics’ Bust Cream in the Context of Japanese Popular Culture
Mickey Muldoon
TF: Rebecca Suter 12/19/06
Any attempt to define a term as large and as nebulous as “Japanese popular culture” should be undertaken with great caution. The danger in defining terms is that, especially in an academic context, the purpose of a definition can become easily lost upon an author and audience. A definition of the kind that is found in a dictionary or encyclopedia is really only useful to the extent that it can be accepted as reference; when people consider an unclear term, they turn to a reference to determine its standard meaning. The definition of Japanese popular culture given by Kern – “The set of artifacts produced and widely consumed primarily in Japan for and by Japanese people”1 is an example of a referencetype definition. It makes it possible for us to refer to it and agree that, according to the definition, JPop music is part of Japanese popular culture and the Quentin Tarantino film Kill Bill is not. The benefit of taking a reference definition is that we can have an interesting discussion about the substance of works in question – for example, about audience, techniques, effects, references, commercialism, and so forth – without getting bogged in the interminable and fruitless debate about what and what isn’t “popular.” For the sake of communication, we agree to adopt someone else’s definition. The purpose of this essay is not to develop a reference definition. Reference definitions can be, as I alluded to above, somewhat arbitrary. Nobody needs to make an argument to justify the definition of words like “house” or “bachelor” or “hatred” in the dictionary. Rather, in this essay, I will make a subjective definition of Japanese popular 1
Lecture, Adam Kern, October 31, 2006
culture. It will not necessarily be a “better” reference definition than any other; instead, my definition will simply be an explanation of what I, personally, associate with the term. To illustrate my definition, I will show how one cultural product – “Bust Cream” by Juju Cosmetics – does the kinds of things that, I think, qualify it to fit within my definition of Japanese popular culture.
Definition 1: Popular culture consists in the values, aesthetic sensibilities, worldviews, habits, and opinions that are considered to be normal or mainstream within a specified group of people.
In order to hold a definition of Japanese popular culture, it is necessary to have a general definition of popular culture. And according to my general definition, popular culture has the important quality of being a subjectively created concept. I purposefully write that popular culture is what people consider to be normal, whether or not that reflects reality. The consequence is that for any given group of people, there are potentially as many popular cultures as there are people in the group. Popular culture lives in the imagination of individuals. Why bother to complicate things with the subjective twist? Why not remove the “considered to be” qualification from the definition? Let me use the example of “South
Park” to explain. “South Park” is an animated television series that includes four vulgar, pottymouthed fourthgraders as the primary protagonists, that is rated “MA – for mature audiences only,” and that has dialogue that regularly ridicules and offends religions, minority groups, schools, leaders, and politicians. The show is undoubtedly “popular” in the mundane sense of having high ratings and more viewers than most other comedy shows. But, I think, what makes it part of the American popular culture is that it leads people to believe something about what is considered normal in American society. Upon observing the popularity of South Park, people are more likely to make comments such as “Americans find it funny to openly ridicule religious groups and play into stereotypes about women, minorities, and religious groups” or “People today don’t care any more about intelligent humor.” It is this sense of “people today,” a conception of what is normal and mainstream in a society, to which many people ultimately refer when they talk about popular culture. I must stress that it does not really matter whether someone’s idea of “people today” actually lines up with the facts. The facts of a society’s patterns and tastes are only really known for certain by sociologists and demographers, but “popular culture” has an imaginary existence inside everyone’s mind. At this point, it might be asked, “Even if everyone has her own idea of popular culture, why don’t you tell me what your idea of American or Japanese popular culture is? My response is that I don’t have one. I don’t think that making generalizations about
“people today” without resorting to the facts of the matter known by sociologists and demographers is at all useful. I can talk about cultural products and what they might lead us to believe about the society that created them, but I never actually use the term “American/Japanese popular culture” because the term can always be replaced by something more descriptive. To return to the argument, one function of massproduced goods – commercial, artistic, or both – is that they give us a sense of what our popular culture is. But it is the consuming of these goods that gives people a sense of belonging in the culture. It could be said that an effect of massproduced cultural good is that people no longer consume them for any specific effects they might deliver (emotion in movies, satisfaction in good food), but rather, for sense of belonging that they give their audiences. With these points in mind, I can finally get to describing Japanese popular culture:
Definition 2: Japanese popular is an example of popular culture from Definition 1, as held by people in Japan. Popular culture is particularly strong in Japan – that is, people believe similar things about the norms and tastes of the society – because (1) as a “collectivist” society, belonging is very important and popular culture supplies the sense of belonging, and (2) as an industrialized, wealthy society, Japan has the means to massproduce and massdistribute artistic and commercial products.
I will flesh out this definition by looking at Juju Cosmetics’ “Bust Cream,” a lotionlike cosmetic product described on the packaging (in English) as “The moisturizing cream that tones your breast skin firm, soft, and smooth.” “Bust Cream” clearly and obviously portrays the Japanese popular culture’s images about women and sexiness, and clearly exists a product to give women the illusion of buying in to that image. It is a product, first and foremost, of questionable function and even more questionable effectiveness. The product description, at least in English, does not explain whether the purpose of the cream is to enlarge breasts, to soften them, to make them firmer, or to accomplish a combination of those. It is placed on the cosmetics shelf directly next to “Hip Cream” made by the same company. It seems doubtful that the chemical compositions of the creams are really different enough to warrant completely different products. Why, then, would a young woman even consider buying a product (and not an inexpensive one – a small container costs $19.99) with unclear effectiveness? It is exactly for the reason mentioned above: it is the fact that the product gives the consumer a sense of belonging, regardless of the specific effects of the product. The packaging of the product is rather startling; it is a plastic mold of the bust of a woman with enormous breasts, wearing only a corset. Only by opening the plastic mold can the cylindrical cream contained be reached. To make an analogy to the South Park example, “Bust Cream” makes young women simultaneously think, “people today really like firm, large breasts”
and “buying this cream will allow me to fit that image.” Young women are in a particularly vulnerable position in Japanese society and thus have a particularly strong urge to feel a sense of belonging in the culture. “Bust Cream” certainly delivers this. It is decorated with cartoons of braclad cartoons resembling a siliconeenhanced Marilyn Monroe, connecting the cream to other images prevalent in the culture and contextualizing the act of applying cream as a broader kind of cultural integration. There is a bold marquis across the front of the packaging that simply says, “Super!!” that also serves to connect the product to other stereotypical notions of “coolness.” And on the back side, cartoon diagrams of naked women show instructions for applying the cream in a circular pattern. For insecure young girls, commonsense instructions for applying this erotic cream – even though following instructions is completely antithetical to youthful notions of rebellions, sexiness, and dangerousness – provides a scaffold for entering the world of adult sexual life. The total effect of the packaging, to reiterate, is to do what massproduced items tend to do: it creates the idea of a popular culture from the perspective of consumers. It gives the girls who use the cream a sense of the popular, valued image of women; it gives them the sense that they are fitting that image and thereby belonging in the popular culture; it reaches out the insecurity and fragility of young women and scaffolds them as they become part of this culture. But it is only a fictional culture that the product portrays and young women will inherit in the act of consumption.