Fabric And Trims Tests.docx

List of Trims Used in Garments Trimming: All the garments materials expect fabric required to make readymade garments are known as trimming. And it is attached in garment with sewing. All types of trimmings are mainly used to furnishing garments. Garments trimmings are attached to the garments before and after finishing the garments in garments manufacturing technology. Buyers are recommended to garments factories, which kind of trimmings are used for make a garment? Some trimming can be seen outside and some cannot be seen from outside the garments.

Types of Trimmings: There are two types of trimming. They are 1. Visible trimming & 2. Invisible trimming. Visible trims can be seen from outside of the garments. For example: interlining.

Uses of Trimming in Apparel Industry: Trimming are used mainly two purposes such as1. Functional purpose: Example- Zipper, Button, Label etc. 2. Decoration purpose: Example- Lace, Braid, Motif etc. Different Types of Garments Trimming: 1. Sewing thread 2. Button 3. Interlining  Fusible  Non- Fusible 4. Lining 5. Label  Main label  Care label  Size label  Price label  Flag label  Compositions label 6. Motif 7. Lace, Braid, Elastic 8. Rivet (Rivet is not used to open or close the opening the garments. It used for decorative and reinforcement purpose of garments) 9. Zipper 10. Hook & Loop fastening (VELCRD) 11. Shoulder pad 12. Metal Badge, 13. Twill Tape, 14. Velcro Tape (This item consists of two woven polyamide tapes one covered with very fine hooks and the other very fine loops)

Quality of Garments Trimming: Textile materials or non-textile materials are mainly used to make garments trimming. But they should be selected carefully to get desire performance from them. The important qualities of trimming are given below: A. Life time If the trimmings become fade or break then garment will not be wearable. So, life time of trims should be equal to garments. B. Shrinkage If trims become shrinkage by washing or ironing as a result appearance of the garment may be hampered. And ultimately garment will not be wearable. So, the shrink ability of the fabric and the trimming should be checked earlier. C. Colour fastness Colourfastness is very important for trimming. If fastness become poor then garment will be also poor appearance. The colour of trimming should not be faded due to washing or exposure to sunlight. D. Rust The trimmings which are made from metal, then material should become rust free. If rusting occurs, they will create spot on garment. So before using in garments then obviously check that is electroplated. E. Comfort ability Trimming should become hygienic and obviously comfortable.

Trim Inspection Procedure Do you inspect the trims prior to attaching those to your garments? You can set inspection procedures for the trims and accessories as following. Like garments, trims are not checked for 100%. Quality inspector only needs to confirm that bulk trims are sourced as per required standards. Only trims or accessories that are made by manual processes are required to check 100% of quantity. All the trims are made in the machine are considered as same quality. Like shades of threads, printed text on labels etc. In trims inspection, it is not just visuals inspection of the trims but many times you need to check its physical properties. To ensure physical properties are as per standards, trims are processed for in-house tests. Store personnel, testing lab (if test lab is there), merchants or R&D department can be involved in the tests. Prior to start inspection, the quality checker must have approved standards of the trims or style wise approved trim cards. Standards for the properties are like – colour, shade, measurement (width and length) and hand feel. The standard sample must be signed by the buyer or buying house merchants or factory merchant.

Procedures for standard approvals: Once factory received the bulk of the trims, merchant collect trims from the store and prepare the trim card and sign on it after comparing trims against the approved sample. If the merchant does not have approval or does not sure about the item quality, she sent trims to the buyer for bulk approval. Once merchant received approval from buyer, they keep approvals ready for factory use.

Trims are normally being checked against standards on the following parameters. And parameters may vary one trim to another. Shade matching Shrinkage Colour bleeding Width and thickness Strength Number and size fibre content Text content/font/language in labels and tags All the above parameters are generally checked using following procedures. Shade matching: When we are talking about shade matching of trims it is more important that trims colour should match with base fabric rather than colour code or Pantone card. Trims those are specified DTM (dye to match) requirement is checked after attaching trims on the fabric swatch. Check shade of the trims whether the shade is matched or not. Use colour cabinet (lightbox) for checking shade. This test is always required for shade matching of sewing threads, embroidery threads, tapes, elastic and Dori.

Shrinkage: If shrinkage % of the trims varies from the fabric’s (base material) shrinkage%, it will cause defective garment. Trims such as tapes, laces must be tested for its shrinkage%. To check the shrinkage, take some sample of trims (lace or tapes) of a length of about 1.2 meters. Mark on its two ends keeping a gap in between marks of exactly 1 meter. Dip one sample (the lace/ tape) in cold water for about 12 hours. Take out tapes from water and flat dry. Measure the length in between marks using same measurement tape/scale. Now calculate shrinkage% in cold water. Secondly, shrinkage% is also checked after washing trims in the washing machine and tumble drying.

The shrinkage found in testing is compared to tolerance label and decided whether trims will be accepted or not. When you are in confusion seek help for the authorized person (generally merchants). The formula for calculating shrinkage percentage = (Length before wash – Length after wash)/Length before wash X 100 (%). Colour bleeding: Dyed trims are checked for colour bleeding. Buttons, sewing threads, dyed tapes, and laces may be required for the colour bleeding test. In this test, trim samples (one by one) are washed with white fabric for a number of cycles as mentioned in testing methods (AATCC or ASTM). If the white fabric is got tainted with trims colour then these trims should not be used in production. Prior to use, trims must be processed for colour fixing to stabilize the colour.

Width & Thickness: Measure width of the trims such as tapes, elastics, laces etc. It would be good if you take measure after wash.

Size & Numbers: Thread numbers, button size, length of zippers etc. need to check against standards.

Text content/ fonts/language on labels and tags: Texts are printed in the trims like hang tags, price tags, brand labels, case labels. It is very important that all information is matched with approved one. Fiber content printed in care label must match with test report made for fiber content. Like above test, you may need to conduct many other types of a test based on trims and buyer requirement. Report making: At the end of inspection prepare an inspection report on the report card (formats). Your report card must have information such as i) what trims, ii) how many samples you tested, iii) comments if you found something that does not match the standards. Finally, write your assessment on trims inspection report whether trim is approved for production or not.