European Vibe June 2009

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jevo lingo star in Sara General Mola film first and much more

h What the Spanis ricans think about Ame

plus nik travel - Dubrov ions British & irish L Madrid Inspirational

No. 32 JUNE ’09

The essential monthly lifestyle magazine

vibe

european RID MAD

The Premier League vs. La Liga

Out of the armario, into the summer

The end of the month sees the start of Orgullo Gay ’09, which is not only the best atmosphere of Madrid’s summer street festivals, but also an important reminder of how far Spain has come since the dictatorship. A little over 30 years ago, they would catch homosexuals, chop them into small pieces and feed them to the bulls. Sadly, there are still people in Spain who think like that, but more have understood and embrace the equality for all Spaniards written into their constitution. The international community also reaps the benefits of Spanish acceptance; my friends Jerker (Sweden) and Moi (Spain) celebrate their wedding this month, same-sex marriages were something unthinkable until recently. Love and congratulations to them. The equality this festival promotes is for everyone, no matter orientation, so gay yourself up and mince on down to Chueca with as much ‘feather’ as you can muster on 27 June. But there’s a lot to do around Madrid before that. I don’t know if you have seen last month’s exciting news, but just when you were wondering what to spend your redundancy money and unemployment benefit on, the government announced that they will give you 2000€ towards the purchase of a new car. Sounds fantastic, you’ll probably even have some change left over to buy some shares in General Motors. Seriously though, it’s the funniest thing ‘Chelu’ Zapatero’s done since he was in Mr. Bean. While it can’t be long before his main rival, two-time loser Mariano ‘Ratboy’ Rajoy, gives up and shuffles off to have a cry and eat some chocolate, his one and only policy of pointing out that Zapatero promised full employment in Spain last year before the recession hit is a great alternative to using his brain. Why the sudden interest in politics, you ask? Well, if you’re an EU citizen and a registered resident here, you can vote in the European elections on Sunday 7 June and have your say. Whether or not you’re interested in politics, sexual politics or just good old sex, June means real summer in Madrid and the opening of the swimming pools, and that’s something we can all appreciate. You get it all at the pool – some go to get a tan, some go to swim, some go to chat, some go to read and some go to show off. Some go to stare, and if you’re one of them and you get caught, just use the bankers’and economists’excuse and tell them it’s not your fault: “We’re all to blame for this”. This is where we separate the armchair exhibitionists and voyeurs of Facebook with the real McCoy. If the art of staring is a national pastime in Spain, then paying compliments is a similarly popular pursuit with just as much finesse. Before I leave you to have a stare at the magazine, here’s a compliment I heard a gentleman give to a well-formed young woman on a sunny May morning: “¡Vaya culo! ¡Te tiras un pedo en un saco de harina y salen croquetas!” I love Spain. Compliment and a recipe all in one… Luc

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CONTENTS 04 bits & pieces & BEST OF THE BLOG 05 WHAT’S ON -Swimming pools in Madrid 06 WHAT’S ON - comedy, photoespaña, orgullo gay 2009, Sorolla 07 WHAT’S ON - Confederations Cup, Lions, & WORLD CUP 08 Vibes – festivals & Dj Cosy O 09 WHAT’S ON - calendar 10 Vibes – Aura Dione 12 PARTY & travel PHOTOS 14 escape madrid - Mongol Minis 15 euroWEEKENDER - Dubrovnik 16 WEEKENDER – Ibiza clubs 18 LINGOSTAR - survival section & ADVANCED section 19 My Metro & Books 20 FILM FIRSt - Terminator Salvation & Ice Age 3 21 new movie releases 22 sport – 6-a-side Cricket Cup & Wimbledon 23 sport – Premier League vs. La Liga 24 culture - What the Spanish think about Americans 25 culture - General Mola 26 EAT OUT GUIDE 28 inspirational madrid Natasha Mason 29 services

Repro/Printer Artes Gráficas Hono SL June 2009 Depósito legal: M-59116-2006

editorial

ADVERTISING/PUBLICIDAD tel: 91 549 7711 e-mail: [email protected] podcast You can now listen to and download European Vibe Magazine articles and ‘tertulias’ through the player on the article pages of http://www.europeanvibe.com or on our podcast page http://europeanvibe.podomatic.com

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WE WANT YOU TO WRITE FOR US Send a 500-word article about your barrio in Madrid to [email protected] to get a writer’s account on our blog!

WIN!

If you find the bully logo in one of our featured adverts, send us an email to [email protected] and you could win a meal for two people at Monks bar & restaurant. Each person will be able to enjoy up to 30€ worth of food and drink. Last month’s winner was Kevyn Whitelaw. Kevyn won passes for two people for a bathing session with massage at Medina Mayrit. Bully was hiding in the O’Neill’s advert on page 23. Get searching! june 09

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Madrid agenda compiled in collaboration with esmadrid

Madrid agenda compiled in collaboration with esmadrid

what’s on?

For David O’Doherty is not just any old Irish comedian. His style can only be described as “musical comedy”. What with shows such as The Mighty Boosh and Flight of the Conchords becoming more and more popular, so has this new genre of comedy. In 2008, O’Doherty walked away from the Edinburgh Fringe Festival with the prestigious if.comedy award for his stand up, Let’s Comedy, which is currently touring and hits Spain this month for what has been dubbed, “The comedy event of the year”. O’Doherty is described as having a, “Wonderful singular offbeat style”, and goes from, “Dry observations to manic storytelling,”says The Guardian. Manic he certainly is. In his song FAQ for the DOD, O’Doherty introduces his autobiography, which he claims to have titled Harry Potter and the DaVinci Book of Sudoku. He continues by answering various frequently asked questions, including his style of comedy: “Very low energy musical whimsy- or vlemwy”, and how can you tell if you have met “The One”. O’Doherty also had a stint on Irish TV channel RTE with his show, The Modest Adventures of David O’Doherty, where each week he challenged himself to bizarre tests such as attempting to get to the number 27 spot- no higher or lower- in the Irish charts. The 'love' song was called Orange, and tells a story of a fake tanning accident. In the end, it unfortunately only reached number 30. So, if quick quips and hilarious yet painfully honest reflections are right up your street, then head down to the intimate venue Sala Calamores on Sunday 7 June to see the cat that’s got all the comedy cream.

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june 09

From 3 June to 26 July, Madrid will be playing host to the 12th edition of PhotoEspaña Festival. Started in 1998 as a Festival of Photography and Visual Arts, it has become critically acclaimed as one of the most relevant visual arts events in

Those of you wanting to delve into the workings of photography itself, Alcala de Henares will be hosting several workshops on the subject. So whether you just fancy and exhibition or something more practical, there are plenty of ways for you to get involved.

exhibitions

Sorolla at the Prado

From 26 June to 6 Sept Internationally famous Spanish artist Joaquin Sorolla will be paid a huge tribute by the Museo del Prado from 26 May to the beginning of September. With more than a hundred paintings on display, madrileños can see the acclaimed ‘luminism’ of the painter for themselves. As his canvases capture light through different layers of colours creating vibrant images, the scenes he depicts look as alive as a painting could ever be. This characteristic brought Sorolla worldwide recognition when the Hispanic Society of America commissioned his most ambitious decorative project. The Visions of Spain series were the result of that and are back on the Spanish soil for the first time since he painted them as part of the biggest exhibition ever of his finest work. This exhibit is taking place in the Prado’s new wing and celebrates the brush and technique of the master’s modern naturalism. With pictures coming from all over the world, such as private collections and from leading international museums, this event promises to be the highlight of the summer’s exhibitions.

festival

OrgulloFrom Gay3 June Madrid 09to 26 July

from 27 June The week at the end of June and start of July is marked by the Gay Pride Festivities in Madrid and, of course, culminates in the parade that goes through the city on 4 July, starting in the Chueca district. It’s going to be one hell of a party, but let’s not forget that the event has its serious side about promoting LGTB (lesbian, gay, transsexual and bisexual) rights around the world. After the inaugural fiesta, held on 27 June, there will be a round of speeches and debates, followed by various events until the big carnival-style celebration of the following Saturday. The week will attract thousands of people from all over the globe, who come to show their endorsement of tolerance and respect for the homosexual community. Madrid, well known as an open and cosmopolitan city, will be hosting many cultural and protest activities in honour of those who want to live their lives freely. What the madrileños call the “Pride Festivities”will suit all tastes going from openair concerts and performances to all-nightlong crazy partying in Chueca. This event is open to all open-minded people, not just the LGBT community, so come one, come all. So, when you see the streets of Chueca lined with garlands and flags, you will know that it is time to show off the diversity of today’s society.

the star of seville A drama attributed to Lope de Vega which questions the legitimacy of power when it ceases to be fair. The story takes place in 13th-century Seville and features themes typically found in works from that period: vassal versus king and the limits of loyalty, honour and love. Ending: 7/6/2009 Venue: Teatro Pavón Price: 9 € & 18 € (www.servicaixa.com) Metro: Embajadores

MUSICALS Grease, the musical of your life This spectacular, large scale musical recreates the charm of the 50s and is aimed at all audiences. Ending: 30/06/2009 Venue: Nuevo Teatro Alcalá Price: from 22 € to 58 € Metro: Goya/ Príncipe de Vergara Bollywood land: love never dies Starring Indian actors and with music and the script in Hindi, this production is strongly inspired by Indian films. It tells of the love between Maya and Surya and the difficulties they have to overcome: obstacles imposed by the strict rules of their society. Ending: 25/06/2009 Venue: Teatro Compac Gran Vía Price: from 18 € to 75 € Metro: Plaza de España

exhibitions Stilettos. Fascination and Seduction Admire heels from Italy and other countries, created by top international designers. Go on a chronological journey from the 1950s right to the present day and delight in masterpieces designed by leading fashion labels such as Prada, Manolo Blahnik and Jimmy Choo. Ending: 30/08/2009 Venue: Museo del Traje Price: Free entrance Metro: Moncloa / Ciudad Universitaria Maurice de Vlaminck A Fauve Instinct Staged by CaixaForum, this focuses on the artist's avant-garde period, 1900 to 1915, which made him one of the key figures in Fauvism. The exhibition highlights the essence of Maurice Vlaminck's work as well as the role he played in the renewal of painting in the European avantgarde of the early 20th century. Ending: 7/06/2009 Venue: CaixaForum Madrid Price: Free entrance Metro: Atocha / Atocha Renfe

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Juan Muñoz Organized by London’s Tate Modern, Madrid will host the first major international retrospective of the Spanish artist. The exhibition will include sculptures, installations and drawings created by one of the key artists capable of renewing contemporary sculpture. Ending: 31/08/2009 Venue: Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía Price: 6 € Metro: Atocha

Museums Reina Sofía (Santa Isabel, 52) Metro: Atocha Open: Monday to Saturday 10:00 until 21:00. Sundays 10:00 until 14:00. Tuesdays closed. Museo del Prado (Paseo del Prado s/n) Metro: Atocha Open: Tuesday to Sunday from 9:00 until 19:00. Mondays closed. Museo Thyssen Bornemisza (Paseo del Prado, 8) Metro: Atocha, Banco de España. Tuesday to Sunday from 9:00 until 19:00. Mondays closed.

Quizzes Anyway Pub Quiz Night- Thursday from 23:00 in Anyway Pub. Viriato, 64. Metro: Iglesia. IRISH ROVER Every monday at 21:00, upstairs in the library. Join us to spark up a brain cell after the weekend. Avenida del Brasil, 7. Metro: Santiago Bernabeau. MOORES Pub quiz in English every Monday at 21:45 in Moores Irish Pub, Calle Barceló. Lots of prizes and great fun. Everyone welcome. Metro: Tribunal.

Theme Parks Parque de atracciones (Fun fair) Open Weekends. Metro: Batán. Bus lines 33 & 65. Tel: 91 463 2900 e-mail: [email protected] Planetario de Madrid Avda. del Planetario, 16. Tel: 91 467 34 61 Metro: Méndez Álvaro. Closed Mondays Warner Bros Park Open daily from June to Mid-September and on chosen weekends and holidays during the rest of the year. Call to confirm opening times. Take the bus from Legazpi Plaza or the train from Atocha Tel: 902 024 100 www.warnerbrospark.com

Sport REAL MADRID Estadio Santiago Bernabéu. Avenida de Concha

Fun Activities AeroBalas Sky-diving School - Aerodromo de Casa de los Pinos, Cuenca. Tandem parachute jumps from 110 euros. Call 610 408 831 or 667 512 102 www.aerobalas.com Palacio de Hielo - Skating rink, bowling lanes and cinema. C Silvano, 77, Parque Conde de Orgaz. Metro: Canillas ZOO-AQUARIUM DE MADRID Casa de Campo Metro: Casa de Campo. Tel: 91 512 3770. Adults: 14.90 €. Children 3-7 years old and pensioners: 12.20 €. Children under 3: free entry. ski-kamel sportour. C Feijoo,9, on the corner with C Cardenal Cisneros, 72 (Quevedo). Tel: 91 446 0221. www.skikamel.com

NightLife Wednesday Nights Vibe the party @ Orange Café Now legendary international party with hip hop and RnB music taking place every Wednesday night at Orange Café , Serrano Jover 5, Metro Argüelles. Open bar of beer, sangria and wine and beer pong games from 11:30 pm - 12:30 am for only 5 euros. From 12:30 till close, entrance with 2 drinks included for 10 euros. Get on the guest list at www.europeanvibe.com Thursday Nights Fever @ Joy Eslava The Ultimate Student Party. Every Thursday night Madrid’s most famous club becomes a disco sensation with spectacular animation and the best music from the 1970s till present day. Free entrance or 2 drinks for 10 euros from midnight till 1:30 am, or entrance price with 2 drinks for 12 euros from 1:30 am till close. Joy Eslava, calle Arenal 11, Metro Sol / Ópera. Get on the guest list at www.europeanvibe.com Friday Nights fabulous @ Joy Eslava This is arguably Madrid’s most glamorous club night and is in session every Friday night at the Joy Eslava located in the central Puerta del Sol area of the city. Burlesque-style animation, exclusive VIP zones and the biggest house and mainstream tunes all night long. Are you fabulous enough to be there? Joy Eslava, calle Arenal 11. Metro Sol/ Opera. Get guest list access to this party by signing up at www.europeanvibe.com

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sport

British & Irish Lions For all ye rugby fans out there, you’re fix of telerugby has been guaranteed. The British and Irish Lions are off on tour to South Africa this month with the Grand Slamwinning Irish and Wales dominating the side. Munster and Irish lock Paul O’Connell has been named captain and the team is headed up by head coach and former Scotland international Ian McGeechan. It’s the first Lions’ tour since their South Seas visit in 2005 when they lost all three of their test matches against the mighty All-Blacks. They’ll be hoping for better results this time against the reigning World Champions, the Springboks.

WORDS by Martin Quinn

If like me you have done many of the museums in Madrid and are into your photography, you might be in for a treat when summer finally arrives in Madrid.

From 3 June to 26 July the world. Not only will this festival exhibit photographic works of 248 artists from 40 different countries, but it will be holding seminars and workshops also. The festival takes place in 60 different venues including Círculo de Bellas Artes, Casa de America and Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía. The theme this year is ‘everyday life’ and among the exhibits on offer is one on The Great American Depression in the 1930s by Dorothea Lange. But what I'm really looking forward to is Annie Leibovitz’s work hosted on Alcala 31, nearest to the metro Banco de España. This exhibit organized by New York’s Brooklyn Museum will feature portraits of Nicole Kidman and Brad Pitt whilst also her work on the siege of Sarajevo.

Espina, 1. Tel: 91 398 43 00 www.realmadrid.es AtLetico Madrid Estadio Vicente Calderón. Paseo Virgen del Puerto, 67. Metro: Pirámides. Tel: 91 366 47 07 www.clubatleticodemadrid.com CB Estudiantes Basketball Madrid Arena, Serrano 127, 28006 Madrid Tel: 902 400 002 www.clubestudiantes.com Real Madrid CB Pabellon Raimundo Saporta, Paseo de La Castellana, Madrid. Tel: 91 398 43 32, or check out www.realmadridbasket.galeon.com Horse racing Hipódromo de La Zarzuela Horse racing has returned to the La Zarzuela Racecourse, with races to be held every Sunday until 28 June. Its location, right next to El Pardo, makes it the perfect place to spend a Sunday morning doing something different. Sport, bets, nature and, above all, lots of excitement. Ending: 28/06/2009 Venue: Hipódromo de La Zarzuela Price: 9-30 €

Also included in the squad is Welshman and fly-half Stephen Jones. Jones missed out on the last tour due to the barely-fit Jonny Wilkinson’s selection in what seemed an act of favouritism by coach Sir Clive Woodward. He is joined by Irish mainstays Ronan O’Gara and Brian O’Driscoll but the pivotal Peter Stringer is surprisingly absent. Current Player of the Year Shane Williams and Englishman Simon Shaw have also been included. The Lions’ were originally called the British Isles and adopted their feline nickname in 1950. As the Republic of Ireland is also represented in the team, the name was always controversial. It was finally changed in 2001. The crest is the symbols of the four home nations amalgamated on one badge. As the Lions’ are, in fact a team representative of two independent states, there is no national anthem played at matches. A Lions’ anthem was commissioned for the last tour by Clive Woodward though it seems to have been unpopular amongst fans and didn’t really take off. And getting to see the action in Madrid? There are plenty of Irish pubs showing the action (see the ads). Rugby will never be able to compete with football and basketball in Spain, though it is gaining popularity. Forceful, skilful and surprisingly graceful, the perennial game for thugs and played by gentlemen is well worth watching. And if the scenes in the pubs are anything like during the Six Nations, the bar owners will be laughing all the way to the bank via the rugby pitch.

sport

6 & 10 june

World Cup 2010 European Qualifiers

Now that the domestic football season is over, a few aficionados of the beautiful game may be getting cold turkey for televised soccer. Luckily enough, we won’t have to develop a sudden interest in bullfighting as the World Cup qualifiers are on again this month. The home nations are all involved but if you really want to jump on the bandwagon, our host nation Spain looks like a sure bet for easy qualification and a long run in the finals. And if the scenes of jubilation that we witnessed with their victory in the European Championships are anything to go by, we’ll be in for one hell of a party in the event of an ultimate Spanish victory. Steamrolling their group with maximum points at the moment, the Spanish have a break in preparation for the Confederations Cup. So who is playing then? Of the home nations, Republic of Ireland, Wales and England are all playing in qualifiers on 6 June, while Northern Ireland travel to Italy for a friendly. The dear old Welsh have always had world class players but never seem able to get their act together as a team. This time though, they have reason to struggle as they are in a group with the penalty shootout masters Germany and Gus Hiddink’s full time job (as opposed to his now-finished part time one at Chelsea), Russia. Wales lie fourth behind these footballing greats and the not-so-big Finland. The Welsh are away to Azerbaijan, a game they really need to win to stay in the running. Republic of Ireland are second in their group and, with the help of manager

WORDS by luc ciotkowski

“He sent the text to the person the text was about.” We all know what it feels like, the painful realization after having sent a text message to the person it was actually about. Comedian David O’Doherty captures hilariously and accurately the dawning realization and consequent awkwardness, along with his trusty electric keyboard.

PhotoEspana 09

portraits of new york A hundred works belonging to 50 great photographers (including Diane Arbus, Cartier-Bresson, Edgard Steichen), who depict, in a realistic and faithful way, the beauty and complexity of New York across a whole century. Ending: 14/06/2009 Venue: Ronda de Valencia, 2 Price: Free entrance Metro: Embajadores

WORDS by Martin Quinn

7 june

on stage

exhibitionS

WORDS by Isaure Cointreau

David O’Doherty

WORDS by Kika Patrick

Comedy

WORDS by Isaure Cointreau

WORDS by Jade Conroy

what’s on?

sport

Giovanni Trappatoni, recently battled to a draw against his home country Italy. This time they are away to their main rivals in the group after the Italians, Bulgaria. And if they win, they will be a nice eight points ahead of the Eastern European side, having played them twice. The Irish always seem to turn their qualifying finales into donkey work however and this time is no different with games they should have won but threw away. Ireland have a problem with finding quality players and Jack Charlton’s granny rule may have to be rolled out once more with a few Englishmen of dubious Irish origin donning the green shirt. Despite this, they are led by Premiership striker Robbie Keane and have other top-level stars Richard Dunne, John O’Shea and Aiden McGeady providing backbone and sparkle. It’s a well-known fact that the three Celtic home nations love to hate the English in the finals. Yeah, it’s outdated and backward, but let’s be fair, the "Two World Wars and one World Cup”war cry at Germany matches alongside the theme to The Dambusters is hardly the most politically correct thing I’ve ever heard. Anyway, they’re up against Kazakhstan and Andorra, not known for their football prowess, but the first is one hell of a journey for Fabio Capello’s side. Now, Stevie G. and Lampard never really looked great together in the middle of the park to me. However, with players like John Terry and Rio Ferdinand at the back and dear old Wayne Rooney rampaging up front, the inventors of football are always going to be ready to pounce and win. Whatever happens, at least we don’t have to take up watching a strangely-dressed man sticking a hundred swords into a bull for sport.

14 - 28 june

Football Confederations Cup

What was originally seen as a bit of a joke competition (with wodges of Saudi money tempting the FAs of several big footballing nations into spoiling their superstars’ summer holidays and forcing them to half-heartedly knock a few goals past some oil-rich, footballpoor countries) has turned into something worth forsaking the bar terrace for the TV screen in the dark pub you now usually only see after midnight. The first reason to turn on Telecinco since about two years ago is the 2009 FIFA Confederations Cup. It promises to be an interesting two weeks as both a dry run for 2010’s World Cup in South Africa and as an intercontinental test for Spain’s irresistible European champions. The tournament features the six current continental federation champions alongside

june 09

the World Cup holders and next year’s World Cup hosts. Spain will play Oceania’s New Zealand, Asian champions Iraq and hosts South Africa in Group A. The top two teams from that group will go on to meet the best two from Group B’s Brazil, Italy, Egypt and United States. The dream final of Iraq against United States might be a little too much to hope for, but there is still the rather sexy prospect of Spain playing Brazil, and/or a confidence test against bogey team Italy. It’s a great reminder, too, that we’re just one year away from the World Cup finally taking place on African soil. Safety and security issues have plagued South Africa’s bid to stage football’s big event; I don’t know about you, but if the Iraqi fans start complaining, I think I’ll watch next year’s tournament on TV.

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Madrid agenda compiled in collaboration with esmadrid

what’s on?

vibes ThIs sUMMEr©s FEstIVAL LINE-UPs

M

aybe you have a spare 150€ knocking about and you’re thinking how much you love music, drinking and well dressed young people. The little fantasy light bulb clicks on in your head. You realize there are four highly distinguished music festivals taking place in Spain this summer. Now you’re thinking, “What better way to spend your savings than on a first class ticket to this year’s best bands and DJs performing on sun-baked stages?” With Benicassim sold out (yes, we all had a little cry), festival-lovers have the tricky pick between Primavera Sound, Sonar and the leader for live music, BBK. The only way to make an informed choice between these four epic events is to take a closer look at their illustrious line-ups.

BEst oF

ThE FEsts Intro by Helen Macrae & Sophie Thomas

Ready for an explosive cocktail of beer, heat, great music and horrifically disgusting portable toilets? Seasoned ‘fester’ Helen Macrae compares the Spanish and UK festival scenes, while Sophie Thomas has a closer look at the line-ups of this summer’s biggest events.

W

hether it’s sipping a mug of chai tea in the sunshine whilst listening to power ballads, having Dermot O’Leary ask me if he could use the toilet, or kicking back on an inflatable sofa sharing a beer with the security guards to the dulcet tones of Metallica, UK festivals have provided me with many a fond memory. Naturally then, when I arrived in Spain, I was keen to see what my Hispanic friends could offer up in the way of summer musical madness. Not counting the one-day events often labelled as 'festivals' which, in all honesty, are just glorified club nights, there’s still a whole lot of stuff going on, and, not surprisingly, there are a whole lot of differences with the UK scene. First and foremost: the weather. In sharp contrast to the more-often-than-not soggy nature of British festivals, throughout the summer most of Spain is pretty damn scorchio, with hour after hour of guaranteed glorious sunshine. No wading through waist-deep mud to get to your tent here! Although some might say the drizzle adds to the unique ambience of UK festivals, I personally prefer not to return to the campsite to find my pitch has been swallowed up by an ocean of muddy water and my tent is now halfway to Bristol. Unfortunately, the heat

also presents problems for campers, since aforementioned tent is consequently transformed into a cosy little sauna and is too hot to set foot in for most of the day, let alone sleep in at night. Perhaps this is why the camping culture (hanging a pair of knickers on a flagpole so you can find your tent, drinking warm cider round the fire with your mates, drunk people tripping over your tent pegs at 5am… ah, memories!) isn’t such an integral part of the festival experience in Spain, with some events not even offering the option to camp. Another thing I’ve noticed is that people don’t like to dress up so much for festivals here. Us Brits just cannot get enough of fancy dress, we LOVE it. When I worked as an Oxfam steward with a mate at Reading Festival back in 2003, we were one day confronted by a dozen Smurfs kneeling before us chanting “Bless you Oxfam ladies!”Would this happen in Spain? Unlikely. Skanking like a crazy thing to Madness surrounded by a bunch of pirates? Tampoco. Watching a man dressed as a giant sunflower struggle out of a portaloo? Don’t count on it. In fact, that whole element of silliness, daft people doing daft things, the idea that a festival is a weekend off from the world and anything goes, is something that’s missing from Spanish events. Don’t get me wrong, the line-ups are great, the atmosphere is brilliant and I’ve always had a fantastic time. Just don’t expect too many silly hats or lizards on unicycles.

With Benicassim being Spain’s biggest festival, counting with four main performance stages, there was no surprise when its glittering line-up had the tickets flying out the door. Without question, the best thing about Benicassim is its well planned mix of chart-topping live acts and electro DJs. Oasis, Kings of Leon, Franz Ferdinand and The Killers are set to headline each evening of the four festival days accompanied by a sprinkling of legendary talents such as Mystery Jets, Paul Weller, Too Many DJs, Lily Allen and Peter Doherty (formerly known as Pete). Perhaps lesser known by live music lovers are the DJs who will take to the enclosed tents to fire up the ravers and keep the beats pumping until the early hours. Boys Noize, Infadels DJs, Steve Aoki and Klaus and Kinski will be among those bringing music to the balmy summer nights. Quite frankly, the line-up is ridiculous; with so much variety, lovers of the mainstream and those slightly more underground are sure to have a summer to remember.

Sonar©s

line-up is more of an acquired taste (and by acquired I mean excellent, I already have my ticket) and there is definitely nothing mainstream about it. The self-proclaimed ‘digital arts and music festival’ has an impressively selective international pick of the hottest DJs of the noughties. Amongst those taking to the stage are acts such as Dan le Sac vs. Scroobius Pip (thou shalt not miss this), Deadmau5, La Roux, Crookers, Breakbot, most of the Ed Banger gang, The Gaslamp Killer and Rob da Bank. The icing on the cake and the touch of Sonar stardom comes with the Friday night feature of the one and only Grace Jones. Never better, my friends, never better. Barcelona’s Primavera Sound has acquired an

eclectic line-up including both indie and electronica, old and new with acts such as Bloc Party, Jarvis Cocker, Ghostface Killah, Simian Mobile Disco, A-Trak, DJ Mehdi and Neil Young. This festival is literally a compiled soundtrack of the past three years of my life, there is something for everyone, from indie and Brit Pop to electro, DnB and minimal. Bilbao’s BBK embodies the term ‘live music’ in its entirety, and us Brits are happy to know that a certain homage is being paid to our homeland with the sheer number of UK acts supporting the festival. Depeche Mode, Basement Jaxx, Editors, Kaiser Chiefs, Babyshambles, Supergrass, Placebo and Primal Scream will be lighting up the north the upcoming 9, 10 and 11 July.

It’s clear to see that the Spaniards have really pulled it out of the bag this year. The summer’s going to go off whether you’re there or not, but I’d strongly recommend investing on one of the golden tickets soon.

DJ Cosy O’s Urban Review

10 tunes that you should have been getting down to this month

1 6 2 7 3 8 4 9 5 10 Jerimih feat Pitbull Birthday Sex (Uptempo Remix)

Kid Cudi feat Kanye West, Common & Lady Gaga Poke Her In The Face

Black Eyed Peas I’ma Be

Ciara I’m A G

Wyclef feat Shakira The Border

50 Cent Ok You’re Right

Rick Ross feat Pharrell Get Down

Drake feat Lil Wayne Unstoppable

Beyoncé feat Kanye West Ego (Remix)

Serani No More Games

> new cd releases

E.N.D Energy Never Dies Black Eyed Peas Ok, some of us might not have forgiven the boys for selling their soul and losing that ‘real Hip Hop’ sound they had back in the day, but the hits and cash have not stop flowing since the boys came across a certain little miss Fergie. Boom Boom Pow went straight to the top of the charts all over the planet and we can expect more of the same from other album cuts including I’ma Be. Love Is Wicked Brick and Lace Most of you will have been dancing to the title track for almost a year but the album is only now about to receive a UK release. These two Jamaican sisters have been signed to Akon’s Konvict label and have a sound that infuses Dancehall, RnB and Reggaeton. Bad to di Bone will be on every Urban DJs playlist this summer.

Formula One RUGBY FOOTBALL TENNIS

SUNDAY 31 MAY Ghostface Killah No Te Va Gustar

7

MONDAY

1 june

Pedro Guerra Sala Galileo Galilei

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Aura La Boite Live Joe Bonamassa

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8

Turkish Grand Prix

2

TUESDAY

Confederations Cup: South Africa v Iraq, NZ v Spain

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Confederations Cup: Italy v Brazil, Egypt v USA

Mónica Giraldo Teatro Lara

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Brujeria & Xkrude & Anal Hard Sara Tavares Sala Galileo Galilei

Pink Tones Foreigner

Sweden: European Under-21 Championship Confederations Cup: Brazil v Egypt, USA v Italy

DJ Tiesto Space Madrid Macumba

SATURDAY 6

World Cup qualifiers

Kee Marcello Band And Uli Jon Roth + Jorge Salán

15

WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY 3 4 5

Achtung Babies 17 Rojas Sala Clamores Confederations Cup: Scott McKeon Teatro Lara Spain v Iraq, South Africa v NZ Diego Del Morao Alexander Abrey & Teatro Lara Mastretta Sala Galileo Galilei Havana D´Primera

Emerging Springboks v Lions

Wimbledon: The Championships

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Korn & Killswitch Engage

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Confederations Cup Final French Grand Prix Sala Heineken C Princesa, 1 (www.ticktackticket.com, 90 215 0025) Joy Eslava C Arenal, 11 (913 665 439) Sala El Sol C Jardines 3 Metro: Sol (www.elsolmad.com 91 532 6490) Sala Live Ntra Sra. de Fátima 42 Metro Eugenia de Montijo. (91 525 54 44) Teatro Häagen-Dazs Calderón C Atocha, 18 Metro: Tirso de Molina (www.teatrohaagen-dazs.es)

24 Confederations Cup: 1A v 2B Tesla

1july Dengue Fever Pretenders Chickenfoot Buju Banton

&ALL TIME LOW

DJ Cosy O is organizing a national Hip Hop dance competition involving dancers from all over Spain and abroad, which will take place in Valencia. Check out the event’s official MySpace page for more details - www.myspace.com/ funkydancevalencia

www.djcosyo.com 8

june 09

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AC/DC EstadioVicente Calderón Nextbigthing: World Cup qualifiers Idioterne & Dead Kids The Original Roger McGuinn Wailers

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Madness Cormega

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Confederations Cup

La Oreja De Van Gogh Palacio Municipal De Congresos Melendi

25 Confederations Cup: 1B v 2A Gente De Zone

2 Kylie Minogue Plaza deToros de lasVentas

New Found Glory

19 Sexy Sadie Florida Park Dayna Kurtz Teatro Lara Rriiccee Sala Galileo Galilei

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Iván Ferreiro Rosendo & Reincidentes Katy Perry & All Time Low & Metro Station

3

Coque Malla Jonas Brothers

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South Africa v Lions Spain v South Africa

La Bien Querida & Serpentina Fischerpooner Night of Tributes

27 South Africa v Lions

Brothers In Band

4 Ice T

Palacio de Deportes de la Comunidad de Madrid Avenida de Felipe II, s/n (www.servicaixa.com 902 33 22 11) La Riviera Pº Bajo de la Virgen del Puerto, (www.servicaixa.com 902 33 22 11) Moby Dick Avda. de Brasil, 5 Metro: Cuzco / Santiago Bernabeu (www.ticktackticket.com, 902 15 00 25) Sala Caracol C Bernardino Obregón 18 ( , 902 15 00 25) Telefónica Arena Madrid Metro: Line 10 (Lago) Line 6 (Alto de Extremadura) www.telefonicaarenamadrid.com

KATYMETRO PERRY STATION &

Santa N La Boite Live Ariel Rot Social Distortion Sidecars

26 June Palacio De Deportes

and believed that I could make it happen. I am so grateful and thankful for each moment, and I can’t wait to see what the future has in mind for me.

You were over here in Madrid a while ago playing at Madrid Fashion Week: Have you had time to see Madrid? What do you make of it?

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Suma Flamenca

until 20 june

Which song of yours would you recommend to people who haven’t heard your music, to bring them in? Song For Sophie or Something From Nothing… Or, or, or!

WORDS & interview by Luc Ciotkowski

You don’t look quite like the stereotype most of us have of Danish people, what’s your genetic makeup? Is it true you have some Spanish blood? My father has some Spanish blood running in his veins. My mother is half French half from the Faroe Islands.

festivals

Is your music style pop with folk or folk with pop? I have almost written all the songs on my guitar. When I produce them, I use influences that come from electronic music and I try to remix the traditional folk song.

“I’m Pocahontas meets hardcore Flashdance”, is how this year’s double Danish Grammywinning artist Aura Dione describes herself. Luc Ciotkowski caught up with her before her Spanish mini-tour to taste this unconventional cocktail. er voice and style first reminds me of Tracy Chapman and Dido before swinging faster than a Spanish summer thunderstorm into something positively pop princessy. This hamstring-ripping reach, coupled with a sultry femininity that makes Jessica Alba look like the girl next door, can’t be far away from being devoured by MTV and global radio. A Song For Sophie is among the tastiest of tracks from her palatable debut album, Columbine. The chorus from her song I Will Love You Monday sounds like the good bit from Ram Jam’s Black Betty reincarnated as a sex kitten and injected with sugar. I hope Whigfield will forgive me, but I’ll take Aura any day of the week, even Saturday night.

WORDS by Kika Patrick

vibes

I really feel at home in Madrid. I like the Spanish temperament and the lifestyle. I like how the women are not afraid of wearing colours, and the men are still being men, some might say macho - and I know that roles between men and women are somewhat changing in Spain - but I love when a man can make me feel like I am a lady. Tell us a little about your life growing up. What was it like having hippy parents and living on the Danish island of Bornholm? My parents have always lived a very free life; they are very open and curious people. When I was a child, we would be on the sea for months. I would bring my red Sony Walkman and listen to ABBA, The Beatles or Michael Jackson. I would ask them about all the big questions of life. Such as, where do the mermaids cook their food? Or who shoots the stars?! Sometimes it would take days for my parents to answer, but we were on a boat with nothing else to do, other than look and learn and talk. How did you come to travel Australia? How have your experiences there influenced your music? I was only 17 when I travelled by myself to Australia. I was

june 09

I’ve been loving the video for I Will Love You Monday on Vimeo and YouTube with all the shoes that fearless and had a strong come out for a walk with belief in myself. I wrote some you. Where exactly did of my favourite songs in you film it? that period of time. It seems The I Will Love You Monday to me that I always get video was filmed in Copenrewarded, when I challenge hagen, Denmark. We drove life’s settings. around all day to different locations to get the perfect Do you think you could get shots. I especially like the used to the lifestyle here in scene where I am dancing in Spain, or is it too hot and the street with all the shoes. life too disorganized? Disorganized? I have only Can you teach us to say met really cool Spanish peo- something in Danish and ple. One time I was on my tell us what it means, way to do an interview at please? Kiss FM TV in Madrid, and I Elske mens du gør det, lev forgot my guitar, left it in the mens du tør det. It means, taxi. As you know, there are “Love like you have never thousands of taxis around been hurt, live as if there Madrid, and I had absolutely were no tomorrow.” no way of getting it back. But the next morning I got What is your favourite a call from the reception at Spanish word? my hotel, saying that a taxi My favourite word is comer. driver had just returned my I love spicy Spanish food guitar! Lucky me! He had and one of the most valued heard me talk and play on moments of the day, for the radio, and somehow me, is when I’m with my found out where I was stay- family or some close friends ing! Now that's what I call after a long day and we organization! gather around the table to share a beautifully prepared You recently won the Best dinner. Female Artist and Best Pop Album at the Danish Aura’s June tour of Spain Music Awards. What was 2 June - Madrid (Sala La Boite) that like? 4 June - Valencia (Sala Wah-Wah) It was of course a big dream 6 June - Vigo (Sala Mondo) coming true. I have been 9 June - Barcelona (Sala Sidecar) writing and playing music for Get pre-sale tickets at so many www.ticketmaster.es years. (10€ pre-sale 13€ I have on the door) always http://www. followed myspace.com/ auradione my heart

What would time in Spain be without a dash of the ol’ flamenco? If you haven’t been able to get down south to its spiritual home or never had the dosh for one of the tourist dinners and shows, then be sure to see Madrid’s Suma Flamenca this year. This festival returns for its fourth year with the best flamenco talent Spain has to offer. Until 20 June, there will be many shows at many different venues showcasing flamenco guitar, singing, piano and, of course, the traditional dancing. There will be a total of 63 shows at venues such as Teatro Canal, Teatro Lara and Casa Patas. Highlighted artists include Enrique Morente, Vicente Amigo and Carmen Linares. All artists will be performing this year in honour of Flemish Catalonia. If you’re not entirely sure who these artists are because you’ve never followed flamenco, then I suggest you head to the Teatro HäagenDasz Calderón. Here, a variety of shows will be presented until 16 June under the heading ‘Flamenco Universal’. The festival ends with final performances in Plaza Mayor from Paco del Pozo, Alicia Gil and Andres Oleagui Cuarteto. Whether you ‘get’ flamenco or not, can you really leave Spain not having experienced a show? Head out to Suma Flamenca Festival this year; it’s all right on our doorstep.

party photos

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escape madrid

travel

Stuck for something to do in the summer? Why not get a Mini and drive from London to Mongolia? When confronted with the less attractive options of working in UK summer schools, Spanish campamentos or having a simple beach holiday, that’s exactly what Peter Moore did. Being shown pornography by a Kazakh family and meeting ‘the mayor of Tashkent’ didn’t even make the cut of highlights from his epic adventure.

WORDS by Peter Moore

t was June in Madrid. Any urgency had left the step of its inhabitants and the city was edging with a languid sigh towards the height of another insufferable Spanish summer. Above, the sky was an electric blue and a fat sun burnt mercilessly down. Below people were hidden behind sunglasses; beneath hats and parasols. They were slouched on terrazas, chewing at olives, spitting pipas and sipping on tintos. At Roberto’s bar, we listened to slow jazz, smoked cigarettes and sweated. An old man in a shirt told me: “Si quieres el perro, acepta las pulgas.” Most of us are familiar with the flow of a Spanish working year. For teachers, it begins somewhere between the middle of September and the middle of October and it stretches, intermittently, through the proceeding eight months until it closes, with a jolt, at the end of June. From then onwards, teachers are all alone, having been abandoned by their academies like a puppy after Christmas. Suddenly made cultural refugees, their choice is stark. Either they can enlist as a tutor at a summer camp, retreat to their home country or they can go on holiday. In 2006, I settled on the latter option – and I attempted to drive a Mini to Mongolia. The Mongol Rally had a deceptive name. There were no fast cars, no spectator lined routes or ice-cool Finnish drivers. Instead it was styled as a ‘charity touring event’, 9000 miles at whatever speed and by whatever route. It appealed immediately. The rally was run by a clutter of hopelessly organized ex-students who were headed by Tom – an amiable bundle of ideas with an utter disregard for the everyday, mundane procession of life. He was the type of man who thought it was a good idea to float down The Amazon on an inflatable dinghy and who survived on little more than an inspiring brand of mindless optimism. We were convinced. His website swallowed our £220 entry fee, we filled out our visa applications and raised

our mandatory lump for charity and that was that. We were in. The rules of the event were simple. You started in London and you finished at Dave’s Bar in Mongolia. Your car had to be crap and it had to have a small engine (less than one litre in size). It was good luck and off you go. So it was then, as half of Spain settled themselves beside the pool, a thousand miles to the north – on a cloudy day in mid-July – a colourful horde of Europe’s forgotten cars assembled proudly in Hyde Park. It was like being dragged back in time: a mechanical symphony for the devil. Exhausts wheezed, bumpers shook, exhausts billowed foul fumes and gearboxes rattled like coalscuttles. An acrid smell filled the air as the army of Metros, Maestros, Fiestas, Pandas, Ibizas and 2CVs fired up for all they were worth. I was one part of a team of six and we’d set ourselves the task of driving three old Minis – The Mongol Minis – on a 9000 mile journey. According to a time-worn British tradition we had named our cars as if they were family pets and that July day Rupert, Apollo and Mabel waited patiently in line: sprayed, tuned, reinforced, roofracked and braced. A horn was blown and we rolled off towards the south. By midday we had left London. By late afternoon we were in France. One day more and we were in Germany. Then, just outside the Czech Republic, Mabel’s exhaust pipe fell off. The incident set the tone for the following month. Mabel, the blood red Mini that was being driven by a halfItalian-half-WestMidlander named Roberto and myself, was a liability. Bought for £450 two months earlier, it soon became evident that she was structurally unsound. Dangerously so. In Transylvania, her rear sub-frame

collapsed. The same happened in Russia, in Kazakhstan and worst of all in Uzbekistan, where crowds of locals appeared in the ancient city of Samarkand and laughed. Each breakdown was followed by an anxious search for a garage or twenty minutes of rage, hitting the axles with a hammer. The month that I spent inside Mabel frightened me stiff. I saw every pot hole as if it was a crater and viewed every crunch of the brakes as a terrifying omen of what was to come. She burnt fuel with the greedy speed of a Harrier jump jet and overheated like a Scotchman in the Sahara. I kept a diary of each of her mechanical faults, which, by the end, stretched to an impressive three long pages. Mabel’s wretched suffering formed the backbone of a captivating journey. Leaving the European Union behind us we found the rolling hills of northern Romania as still and green as the fields of Asturias. Moldova was modern and lively and Ukraine was hot – its vast highways flanked by enormous fields, tall sunflowers and an endless procession of street hucksters. The further east that we travelled, the easier it became to recognise the old, clumsy stamp of half a century’s Soviet rule. The police were sinister. Some carried rifles and others had pistols strapped to their hips. Five times a day we would be stopped as they did their utmost to fine us. Once we were threatened with prison, another time we were presented with a bottle of vodka. Border crossings were the most troublesome and one incident at the checkpoint between Moldova and Russia remains fixed in my memory. We had arrived at the little checkpoint at dusk and were promptly marched to a stark concrete office, which contained nothing more than a table, two

chairs and an old map of the USSR. A guard with a sneer and a gun forced us to complete some forms and surrender a pocketful of American dollars. We then went outside and started our engines. “Where are you going?” asked a suited man with a scar and an Oxford accent. “Mongolia,” we replied, as if we were going to the shops. The official transpired to be the section administrator. Power glimmered in his eyes. He spoke slowly and deliberately and repeated each of our answers with careful precision. “Mongolia,” he nodded inquisitively. “You are not carrying any alcohol or cigarettes, are you?” “No,” we lied, in symphony. The official had the kind of eye that could open an oyster at fifty paces. He ordered us out of the car and pulled down the front seat. I’ll never forget the horrible jangle of two bottles of Romanian vodka. “Arrest! Arrest! Arrest!’ he repeated loudly. Suddenly I had a vision of the beach at Cadiz. Two guards with truncheons shuffled nervously but didn’t move. Roberto and I looked for a moment like we’d just caught a glimpse of the White Witch in Narnia. The official looked me squarely in the eye, raised one eyebrow and said: “You English. I thought that you were supposed to have a sense of humour.” The Mongol Rally generated this story and a hundred more. As we passed through country after country we remembered that people were people – most good, some bad. We were offered food, beds, mechanical assistance, maps, translators, alcohol and wives. For a short month we became celebrities, signing autographs and holding babies wherever we went. Nowhere to the east of Budapest had ever seen anything as magical as a Mini before and everyone was eager to have their moment with the “Mr. Beena Machina”. Mabel’s breakdowns grew more frequent and the one she suffered in the Uzbek city of Samarkand was near terminal. Luckily her shattered driveshaft was repaired against the odds by an inspired mechanic in an old, Soviet aircraft factory. With no brakes and a set of wheelbarrow tyres, we struggled on for another 2,500 miles towards Mongolia, by my calculation, narrowly avoiding nasty scrapes on about four occasions. Then, on the edge of a bear-infested wood in eastern Siberia, she broke for the final time. On a misty morning, we abandoned her. Ten minutes before we left a travelling man took my guitar and played a wistful lament. Four days later, we stepped off the Trans-Siberian Express at the station in Ulan Batar. It was cloudy and warm; the streets were strangely quiet; the faces around us were different. At Dave’s Bar, Roberto and I had a cold beer. We were filthy, unshaven and jaded. Spain seemed a distant place. We had no idea how or when we were going to get back. I sipped on my beer and pondered. I thought about Madrid; about flights; about Mongolia; about the Argentinean girl with the dark eyes and the musical name. How to get home? It was about the best problem a man could ever ever have.

euro weekender

travel the city centre, and as Dalmatia attracts an increasing number of sailors and sea folk, this is the place for luxury yacht spotting. A less flashy and more picturesque spot is the old harbour, Stara Luka, where you might actually see some genuine fishing boats, and not just show-off gear. Croatia has the clearest waters in the Mediterranean, and offers excellent snorkelling and diving. There are several wrecks around, including a torpedo ship from the Second World War.

Dubrovnik WORDS by Linn Treijs

Crystal blue waters billow next to limestone streets. Something old meets something new. Linn Treijs carries us to the pearl of the Adriatic.

W

hen I approached the city walls of Dubrovnik, one steamy July morning coming in on the ferry along the Croatian coast, it was a divided sight, literally. On one side, Dubrovnik is packed with old culture and a UNESCO world heritage site. On the other, a modern metropolis with the latest of the latest. Going to Dubrovnik is like travelling through time, and still it’s just a threehour flight away. The city also has a third aspect that deserves to be mentioned. The scars from the civil war in former Yugoslavia from 1992 to 96, when the city suffered severe bombings. By the end of the siege of Dubrovnik, almost 70 percent of the old buildings had been hit by projectiles. Enormous sums of money were put into restoration, and the city has recovered remarkably well. Some say that it’s even more gorgeous now than before the war, and that says a lot. Dubrovnik has a unique location on the shores of the Adriatic Sea in southern Croatia, with a fabulous archipelago just around

the corner: Dalmatia. This area is becoming a popular destination for tourists, but Dubrovnik is no new hangout. Its former name was Ragusa and it has been a favourite amongst foreign travellers for hundreds of years. That is also the story of the limestone that has been cut into streets and walls in Stari Grad, the old part of Dubrovnik. Polished by thousands of sandals it has gained a slippery smooth marble look, and the hot Mediterranean climate tempts you to bend down and touch the cool finish. Walking down Stradu, or Placa, the main street, it’s not hard at all to imagine past times in Dubrovnik and overlook the more recently added touristy touch.

bleached colours blend with the more intense terracotta of the bricks that were added in the restoration program, and the thin line where ocean meets sky many miles away. Make sure to wear shoes with good grip for a walk on the wall, or you’ll risk spoiling the experience by slipping around on the worn stairs. After a walk on the wall you will be dying for a cold drink. Many of the tiny squares in Stari Grad offer some shade, and if you prefer to leave busy old town for some quiet time on the beach, it’s only a short walk away. The harbour is placed a few kilometres from

As the day turns into night over Dubrovnik, the city, dizzy from the heat, comes to life again. A big part of the summer is dedicated to the annual festival of theatre, concerts and dance shows that starts on 10 July, and draws a vibrant crowd of tourists and locals out on the streets. Dubrovnik in her party mood is a pretty scene; she is fun and makes friends with bohemian backpackers as well as jet-setters. She is our nearest paradise and your perfect destination for this summer, next summer, and the one after.

Short guide to Dubrovnik

How to get there: Iberia has direct flights from Madrid. Most major airlines take you there with one stop. Keep in Mind: The local currency in Croatia is Kuna. 1 Euro = 7,4 Kuna. Try: Local favourites like chevapchichi (oval spicy meatballs) and the traditional meat and veggie stew, peka. Bring here: Rubber slippers or sandals to wear on the beach, as the coast is lined with pebble beaches that can be tough on city feet. Take home: Croatia claims to be homeland of the necktie, so why not bring your dad a gift for once?

When in Stari Grad you will soon notice the city wall. Living in Spain you have probably seen enough cascos viejos, but Dubrovnik’s wall is really something out of the ordinary. It allows you to walk on top of the city for nearly two kilometres, and offers a spectacular view in both directions. A rooftop land of

English Speaking Travel Agency for Students in Madrid C/ Gran Vía 69, ofic 507

My Metro

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june 09

www.europeanvibe.com

www.europeanvibe.com

Plaza de España, salida Leganitos

www.castillatours.com

travel spain

travel

WORDS by Helen Macrae

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june 09

www.europeanvibe.com

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Useful info

Expresiones útiles Dices

Puerta del ‡ngel

GRAN VêA

¿Está incluida el agua caliente?

El agua caliente funciona con monedas. Hay un contador en las duchas.

¿Qué servicios ofrece el camping?

El camping cuenta con Rey Univ. piscina y pistas de Carlos tenis. Juan

¿Tiene disponibilidad para la primera semana de julio?

M—stoles No, está completo. Central

¿Admiten animales?

Sí, admitimos animales. B2 No, no admitimos animales.

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Diálogo Laura llama al camping “Maravillas” para pedir información R: Camping “Maravillas” ¿dígame? L: Hola, buenas tardes. Quería pedir información. R: Sí, dime. L: ¿Cuánto cuesta el camping para dos personas? R: Mira, se alquila por parcelas y la parcela cuesta 10 euros al día. L: ¿Está incluido el agua caliente? R: No, no. El calentador funciona con monedas. L: Ah, vale. Y ¿qué servicios tiene el camping? R: Tiene piscina, tienda, pistas de tenis y también una pequeña sala de cine. L: ¡Qué bien! ¿Está muy lejos de la playa? R: No, no, justo a 200 metros hay una playa. L: Perfecto. Creo que quiero reservar una parcela para la primera quincena de julio. R: Muy bien. L: Una última pregunta: ¿aceptan animales? R: No, lo siento. L: Oh, ¡qué pena! Parecía el lugar perfecto para pasar unas vacaciones.

june 09

Serrano

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PRêNCIPE DE VERGARA

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books 2 OÕDonnell

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Three Places. Three Books.

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At 18 years old, he first realized he wanted R SAINZ DE BARAND Campamento to sing opera. “In opera you have to be your An interview Ibiza with Margo Fortuny CALLAO Banco Alto de own microphone, your body is your instrument. Retiro Sevilla deReading Espa–a Extremadura Empalme The key is to let it go, let your voice be what îPERA on the beach, riding the metro, high in the mountains it is.”In Paris, apparently, opera singers have a or at home, on a cool winter’s day. This month we look at the Lucero Aluche trade union. 15 years ago, the French decided to connection between literature and place in an interview with ‘de-class’opera appreciation and make it more La Latina Margo Fortuny, one of America’s finest young literary talents. Laguna accessible to audiences from all socio-economic Eugenia de Montijo Tirso de Molina backgrounds. Consequently, in Paris one may get Puerta 6 Parque an opera ticket for 20€. Carpetana Carabanchel Ant—n Mart’n de Toledo del Retiro wo weeks in Madrid and I have Tannhauser is an opera that deals with just moved from my former aLavapi�s man’s struggle between godliness and Atocha Marqu�s OPORTO short term accommodation. I paganism. The opera contained nudity and was de Vadillo ACACIAS 2 walk into my new living quarters to the well received by the madrileño audience with EMBAJADORES Atocha Renfe sound of a beautiful tenor voice singing the exception of one heckler who stood up Conde de Casal Vista Alegre Urgel Pir‡mides a cappella on the radio or television. No, and voiced his protest of the choir because of a Palos de Men�ndez Pelayo it’s not the radio or television, it's my new union contract. COLONIA la Frontera 6 flatmate, a French opera singer who is How did Madrid affect Stefan? He explained JARDêN Delicias 11 in Madrid performing at the Opera that during the sixArganzuelaweeks of his stay in Spain PACêFICO 3 Usera Planetario for the show Tannhauser. He he found himself, and, as a result, his Opa–el apologizes profusely, voice has benefited from this 6 stating he thought feeling of freedom.“The M�ndez PLAZA LEGAZPI B1 he was alone story of a singer is Susana travels Europe and the world as a speaker on My Metro Puente de Vallecas ‡lvaro ELêPTICA and therefore Almendrales the story of my life.” Teaching Spanish as a Foreign Language. Lucky enough Abrantes felt free to practice He feels that, after 13 B2 Nueva Numancia No.8 Hospital 12years deof Octubre for that night’s show. I am working at it, to to be shown around by residents, this is what she sees: Opera Pan Bendito Aviaci—n Espa–ola Portazgo blown over. He asks if I like opera, finally be perceived as a in New York in February, it would 1. It’s Madrid in June. The temperature’s If I were B3 San Ferm’n-Orcasur a ciudad de Sarajevo, no había cafés del centro administrativo y cultural San “No,”Francisco I answer truthfully, “but I can singer is a most satisfying probably be freezing cold, thus I would need hot; the pace of life has dropped... Buenos Aires Vientos sido, antes de visitarla, uno deCuatro de tiempos austro-húngaros. some cheering up. The first book I would appreciate a good voice.” accomplishment. Whenlos he sings, he feels like he Ciudad de ‡ngeles Carabanchel Alto mis destinos elegidos para mis reachAlto for is The Philosophy of Andy Warhol: If the sun is out and I’m feeling languid, I In my well-travelled lifetime, I had never is flying. Playing the organ is more an intellectual del Arenal Vilumbrales vacaciones. En esta Sarajevo es una ciudad rodeada de Villaverde Cruce B1ocasión laJoaqu’n From A to B and Back Again. This is one of my would make some fresh mint tea and pick metPESETA an opera singer and now I have one literally endeavour; it involves aBajo connection between the LA obligación mandaba y llegué a la capital montañas. Desde lo más alto se consigue Miguel Hern‡ndez favourite books everI own several copies. up Delta of Venus by Anaïs Nin. Nin was an next door to me... Only in Madrid. hands andCrist—bal brain, while singing is more physical San de Bosnia-Herzegovina por motivos una exquisita vista de la ciudad. Además, adventurous Cuban/French woman famous Whenever I see an old, used copy I buy it He seemed so young for an opera singer, and emotional. Although he speaks French, Italian, Sierra de profesionales. Me asaltaban sentimientos se puede aprovechar el paseo para visitar and give it to one of myGuadalupe friends. It’s basically for writing erotic stories. She wrote about VILLAVERDE ALTO Russian, German and English, he had never 11 I was full of questions. We met at a pastry shop Polish, de curiosidad y respeto; al fin y al cabo, el Castillo de Eugenio de Savoy Una de Warhol’s thoughts on Sex, Death, Business, bohemian Parisians, Spanish husbands, near the Sol Metro for breakfast. studied Spanish, but after six weeks in Madrid he Villa de Vallecas lo único que había oído sobre el país eran las zonas más interesantes de la ciudad Fame…told in quotable mouthfuls. Parts artists, jealous lovers, café culture, and Stefan Moriamez, 32 years old, comes from was able to communicate enough to get around. las trágicas noticias de la guerra que allí es, sin duda, el barrio turco, que cuenta 3 Congosto of it are hilarious. Whenever I’m expecting most of all, desire. Her style is lyrical and the north of France, close to Belgium, and started What is the most attractive thing about PUERTA Casa Parque Legan�s Parque se vivió en la década de los 90. con infinidad de bares donde se puede a phone call from someone who makes peppered with memorable details. I would playing piano at five years old. He recalls Madrid? “The sunny days. ” DELdegustar SUR el café más del Reloj Lisboa Central El Carrascal Oeste La Gavia fuerte del mundo. me nervous, I read a few pages from The push up my heart-shaped always loving to sing, but since his Is there anything about the Spanish that A mí llegada al hotel me dí de bruces con 12- people speak so Philosophy ofSuertes Andy Warhol to relax and sunglasses and rest my feet Las voice as a child was high and sounded surprises you? “The noise los restos del conflicto bélico: sobre la En pleno centro de la ciudad y a have a laugh so I’m smiling by the time on a chair as I read these B1 sing loud, even here (at the pastry shop), it is a Alcorc—n Hospital Juli‡n like a female he was ashamed Elto Bercial San fachada del mismo todavía quedaba la orillas del río Miljacka se encuentra VALDECARROS the phone rings. It’s also a great book to tales. out loud, so he would sing in secret noisy atmosphere. Paris is quiet. ” evidenciaCentral de los bombardeos sufridos. 10 laNicasio Biblioteca de Sarajevo, unSevero edificio Ochoa Besteiro read aloud. Warhol (or possibly his creative when no one else was around. Music What do you think is theLos biggestEspartales El botones que me acompañó hasta de estilo hispano-morisco, que en un team) wrote it in 1975 and it is still relevant Delta of Venus by Anaïs Nin Fuenlabrada Hospital deel Ayuntamiento Manuela Juan ofde his serious singing Arroyo was his refuge. He began Alonso misconception opera singers? Confirming my mi habitación me sacó una sonrisa al principio albergó and amusing today. Also, being a native 1 El Casar Central Pradillo Malasa–a Fuenlabrada studies at a conservatory at 17. At first his goal la Cierva thoughts, he answered that people think you Culebro de Mendoza indicarme que me alojaría en la suite de Sarajevo. La Biblioteca es todo un New Yorker I have to honour my pop culture 2. You’ve three weeks in August. You’re was to teach others to sing. Although he has are old fashioned or have to be old to appreciate “Winter games”, en memoria de los símbolo de la guerra por haber sido history by picking Andy going away alone to a quiet town on a diploma for piano and playing the organ, opera. “One has to like music, psychology and juegos olímpicos de invierno, celebrados bombardeada por los serbios el 25 de Warhol. the Spanish coast. It’s a noiseless place he did not pursue that as a career. “Organists culture to appreciate opera. What is in fashion en 1984 y de Hospital los que los sarajevitas se Loranca Agosto de 1992. El Parque bombardeo provocó Parque de Conservatorio Getafe with a forgotten beach and a handful are perceived as competition for priests.Central ”Who today is money.” sienten profundamente orgullosos. un incendio que hizo que se quemaran los Estados Europa de M—stoles The Philosophy of Andy of bars... knew! I personally feel more moved by the If you weren’t an opera singer, what would alrededor de 600.000 libros. Provoca Warhol: From A to B and Back La ciudad, reconstruida tras la guerra, cierto escalofrío contemplar las ventanas music and choir at a church service than the you be? After deep thought he replied, “I will Again by Andy Warhol As I lie on my sarong, I would be reading desprende una calidez inesperada. La tapiadas del edificio. Al volver a España priest’s homily, but always figured no harm always be a musician,”and he explained if he Island by Aldous Huxley. Huxley is one of my abundancia de bares y cafés con sus tuve la grata sorpresa de leer que el done as long as one receives the spiritual couldn’t sing one day, he would give singing favourite authors, having written both Brave terrazas hacen pensar que se trata de gobierno español va a destinar fondos a message. lessons or be a choir director. New World and The Doors of Perception. un lugar en el que la gente tiene tiempo la reapertura de la misma. Island is a Utopian philosophical book that Writer and artist Margo Fortuny para familia y amigos. Es, sin duda, una takes place on the fictional island Pala. is the features editor for Londonciudad que te llega al corazón. Tiene, Sarajevo es una ciudad que combina based Exit magazine. The former Themes of Buddhism, Hinduism, Taoism, además de magia, mucha historia y de manera inaudita la tradición con New Yorker also contributes to and Confucianism are woven into the plot. grandes dosis de sufrimiento en el la modernidad, establecimientos Loud & Quiet and Metal. Fortuny Huxley wrote an engaging story while ambiente. tradicionales con discotecas de also paints East Londoners, hosts giving the reader a lot to conceptualize. If tendencia. En la ciudad encontrarás an underground literary salon, and you enjoy thinking about Caminar por Sarajevo implica hacer bares en los que puedes almorzar por updates www.margofortuny.com. the meaning of life and un recorrido por su pasado. De hecho, menos de 3 euros un pan de pita relleno She is currently working on her first the future of mankind, I’d pocas ciudades cuentan con una iglesia de espinacas, de patatas o de queso y una novel, Lust Manifesto. recommend Island.

L

Oyes

Quiero reservar una parcela

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CASA DE CAMPO

map it out

Chueca

Santo Domingo

T

Spain is a great country to camp in even though it can get really hot in the summer. There are many camp sites and caravan parks all over Spain. You will notice they are classified as “primera categoría” o “segunda categoría” depending on their facilities and location. Among their services, you will find swimming pools, tennis courts, mini markets and bars.

Col—n

TRIBUNAL

WORDS by PETER MOORE PHOTOS by SABINE LINN

Camping > campsite Campista > camper Tienda de campaña > tent Caravana > caravan Piscina > swimming pool Pista de tenis > tennis court Ducha > shower Agua caliente > hot water Contador > meter Parcela > plot Playa > beach Montaña > mountain

PRêNCIPE PêO

WORDS by Sonia Pathmedevan

theBat‡n section for 5 learning spanish

Vocabulario

NOVICIADO

GOYA

Lago

De camping

PLAZA DE ESPA„A

Margo Fortuny, Bio:

ortodoxa, una mezquita y una sinagoga a pocos metros de distancia entre ellas. Los imperios bizantino, otomano, romano y austro-húngaro dejaron una huella imborrable en su cultura, tradición y, por supuesto, religión. En el centro de la ciudad existe una línea imaginaria que separa la zona otomana, con tiendas de recuerdos, de dulces y

bebida. En su variada gastronomía en la que encontrarás platos como el cepavi, trozos de carne asados con cebolla y una salsa especial, queda patente una vez más la diversidad cultural. Sarajevo es, en definitiva, una ciudad de contrastes que no te defraudará. No lo dudes y déjate encandilar por su magia.

www.europeanvibe.com

Island by Aldous Huxley 3. It’s a chilly February morning in New York City. Outside your apartment window there’s not an inch to be found on the sidewalk as individuals are lost in a crowd of overcoats, polished shoes and dark suits...

june 09

19

film first

new movie releases

ORIGINAL VERSION >Renoir Plaza de España Address: Martín de los Heros, 12 CINEMAS (V.O.) Tel: 915 414 100 & 902 229 122 Zone: Central >Alphaville Golem Price: Mon-Fri 6.50 €. Sat & Sun 6.80 €

WORDS by John Hillman

WORDS by Peter Moore

film first Address: Martín de los Heros, 14 Tel: 915 593 836 Zone: Central Price: 6.80 € Metro: Plaza de España (Lines 3 & 10)

>Pequeño Cine Estudio

Rodríguez (Line 3)

Release Date: 5 June 2009 Spanish title: Terminator Salvation: The Future Begins

Release Date: 15 June 2009 Spanish title: Te quiero, tío

Release Date: 19 June 2008 Spanish title: Obsesionada

Address: Magallanes, 1 Tel: 914 472 920 Zone: Chamberi Price: 6.50 € Metro: Quevedo (Line 2)

>Princesa

Terminator Ice Age: Salvation DawnoftheDinosaurs Spanish title: Terminator Salvation: The Future Begins Release Date (Spain): 5 June 2009 Director: McG Cast: Christian Bale, Sam Worthington & Anton Yelchi

25 years have passed since the original Terminator film, a low-budget release of just $6.5 million, was released to a whirl of excitement and years of subsequent success. It transformed the career of Arnold Schwarzenegger, who, previously known as the sword-wielding Conan the Barbarian with the horrific Austrian accent, became The Terminator – a man of ice and steel. 25 years later, The Terminator is still considered one of the best action films ever made. A recent poll named it, alongside Star Wars, James Bond and Harry Potter, as one of the most successful franchises of all time. Defined forever by its disquieting tagline: “I’ll be back.” Terminator Salvation is the fourth film of the Terminator series. Set in the year 2018 following Judgment Day and the obliteration of human society by an army of Terminators that continue to stalk the desolate cities and deserts, the

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film carries a grim and unsettling air. As before, the plot centres on the struggle of John Connor (Christian Bale) who leads the little human resistance to the Terminators, and it charts the appearance of a strange character – an ex-convict named Marcus Wright – who is thrown alongside Connor into the fight. Connor is left with a stark choice. Does he trust him, or does he not? What follows is a film that descends into that most familiar cinematic grooves: the struggle of man against machine. There might not be the youthful energy of the mid-1980s, but Terminator Salvation is still likely to prove a compelling draw for action movie fans. Created with a budget of $200 million, loaded with a veritable orgy of fiery visual effect, offering a rare glimpse of ‘The Governator’ on film and featuring Christian Bale who many consider to be the world’s finest action actor – we should expect about 90 minutes of the type of explosions that Beirut experienced in 1983. Pitted against The Terminators, who feel no pain, have no emotion and will stop at nothing to complete their mission, the struggle of the courageous John Connor is bound to be a clichéd one. But one that almost certainly worth watching. VIBE STARS

Spanish title: La edad de hielo 3 Release Date (Spain): 3 July 2009 Director: Carlos Saldanha Cast: Simon Pegg, Seann William Scott & Denis Leary

Manny, Sid, Diego, Ellie, Eddie, Crash and Scrat are back for more Mesolithic madness this summer in Ice Age: Dawn of the Dinosaurs. Director Carlos Saldanha returns along with the rest of the Academy Award winning team for the third and final installment of this blockbusting franchise that sees original cast members Ray Romano, John Leguizamo, Denis Leary and Queen Latifah joined by Hollywood new-boy, Britain’s very own Simon Pegg. We rejoin the gang as they attempt to settle down to a quiet life after the chaotic events of Ice Age 2. Manny and Ellie are expecting their first baby, while Diego begins to grow restless in his new role as an oversized house-cat. Things take a turn for the

worse when Sid the Sloth decides that he wants a family of his own and tries to realize this by stealing some newly discovered dinosaur eggs. Big mistake. The herd are catapulted into another adventure as they set out to rescue Sid who finds himself on the run and being perused by the angry colony of dinosaurs, it is here that Sid meets Buck (Simon Pegg), a dinosaur hunting one-eyed weasel. Ice Age 3 promises to deliver all the usual slapstick humour that children love, along with the more subtle pop-culture references aimed at the adult audience that one has come to expect from any contemporary CGI blockbuster. While most parents will probably find the third installment a tad formulaic and somewhat lacking the punch of the original, there is no doubt whatsoever that the movie's main target audience will be lapping it up all the way. The fact that it is being released in 3D (where available) promises to make the ubiquitous chase sequences and Scrat’s hapless pursuit of his acorn all the more visually rewarding. VIBE STARS

www.europeanvibe.com

Please note: details of all films are correct at the time of publication.

Rodríguez (Line 3) Address: Calle de la Princesa, 3 Tel: 915 414 100 & 902 888 902 Zone: Moncloa-Aravaca Price: Mon-Fri 6.20 €. Sat & Sun 6.80 € Metro: Plaza de España (Lines 3 & 10), Ventura Rodríguez (Line 3)

>Renoir Cuatro Caminos

Rodríguez (Line 3)

Release Date: 26 June 2009 Spanish title: Transformers 2: La venganza de los caídos

Win!

Release Date: 3 July 2009 Spanish title: La edad de hielo 3

five cinema tickets for you and your friends!

Yelmo Cine Ideal, the biggest original language cinema in Madrid, are giving away five free tickets to see a film of your choice at their theatre in Calle Doctor Cortezo. All you have to do is answer the following question: Terminator Salvation’s director is known as McG, but what is is full name?

Release Date: 3 July 2009 Spanish title: La última casa a la izquierda

Send your answers and contact details in an email entitled “Yelmo Film Competition” to [email protected] before 22 June 2009. Good luck to you all!

Address: Raimundo Fernández Villaverde, 10 Tel: 915 414 100 & 902 229 122 Zone: Chamberi Price: Mon-Fri 6.50 €. Sat & Sun 6.80 € Metro: Cuatro Caminos (Lines 1, 2 & 6)

Metro: Plaza de España

>Renoir Princesa

Rodríguez (Line 3)

Address: Calle de la Princesa, 5, Pje. Martín de los Heros Tel: 915 599 872 & 902 229 122 Zone: Central Price: Mon-Fri 6.50 €. Sat & Sun 6.80 € Metro: Plaza de España (Lines 3 & 10), Ventura Rodríguez (Line 3)

>Renoir Retiro

Rodríguez (Line 3)

Address: Narváez, 42 Tel: 902 229 122 Zone: Retiro Price: Mon-Fri 6.50 €. Sat & Sun 6.80 € Metro: Ibiza (Line 9)

>Verdi

Rodríguez (Line 3) Address: Bravo Murillo, 28 Tel: 914 473 930 Zone: Chamberi Price: 6.50 € Metro: Canal (Lines 2 & 7), Quevedo (Line 2)

>Yelmo Cines Ideal

Rodríguez (Line 3)

Address: Doctor Cortezo, 6 Tel: 902 220 922 Zone: Central Price: 7.10 € Metro: Tirso de Molina (Line 1)

sport WORDS by Luc Ciotkowski

sport Wimbledon preview

The turn of the tide The Premier League vs. La Liga

22 June – 5 July

Nadal, Federer and Centre Court’s brand new retractable roof: these are the stars everyone is waiting to see at The All England Lawn Tennis and Crocquet Club this year. As well as an end to rain delays on Wimbledon’s main stage, floodlights have been fitted. Play will continue until 10pm (local time), though they could technically go all night if officials saw fit. Last year’s men’s final has been touted as the greatest of all time; something that won’t be repeated any time soon. Or will it? Federer managed to break Nadal’s stranglehold on clay last month here in Madrid, but the Majorcan still went into Roland Garros as the overwhelming favourite. Grass is another matter of course, and Federer will be very much out to show his surrender of the Wimbledon title to the Spaniard was a one-time thing. Whatever happens, both titans will have to be at their best to withstand the challenge of Djokovic and Murray. The home crowd will be right behind the Scotsman, but the expectation could be as much a hindrance as a help to young Andy.

6-A-SIDE

9 may

CRICKET CUP We’re happy to report that the inaugural European Vibe 6-a-side Cricket Cup, hosted by the Madrid Cricket Club last month, was a huge success with eight teams representing large sections of Madrid's thriving expat community. As you can see from the photos, the day was as much about socializing in the Spanish sunshine as it was about winning cricket matches. The eventual winners were the Ría Tigers who beat a highly competitive ‘Team Aussie’ in a hard fought final. European Vibe would like to thank everyone who took part and helped out, in particular Ría Envía who co-sponsored the event with us. For more information about Cricket in Madrid, including details on upcoming events, visit http://cricketinmadrid.com. Roll on the Ashes…

Several betting companies place the Williams sisters as joint favourites for the women’s championship. Reigning and fivetime champion Venus is going for a third consecutive title, and twice winner Venus looks the best-placed to stop her if her early season injury doesn’t come back. Sharapova is another coming back from injury who might be in with a shout. The young Dane with the Polish name, Caroline Wozniacki, is the one I’ll be looking out for to make a big impact after her foray to the final of the Madrid Masters last month. Of course, not to mention the woman who vanquished her and current world number one, Dinara Safina, would be folly. But, this is Wimbledon. “I’ll treat you like a queen, I’ll feed you strawberries and cream…”

WORDS by Michele Martinelli

Michele Martinelli looks at the current power swing in European football and contrasting styles between the English and Spanish game.

A

fter watching the Eto’o, Henri, Messi trident ripple the net 90 times between them this season, I was expecting fireworks against Chelsea in the first leg of the Champions League semi-final. However, it was not to be. The Blues decided to play 9 men behind the ball and the game ended 0-0. The game prompted uproar amongst the Spanish press, who felt the referee had allowed the English team to show far too much aggression towards the skilful Barça players. Regardless of whether or not the officials were too lenient towards Chelsea, the shift in football dominance from Italy and Spain towards England (three out of four teams in the semis twice in as many years) is very much evident. Weeks before, Liverpool destroyed a Real Madrid team who, prior to ‘El Clásico’, were on an 18-match unbeaten run in La Liga. The obvious difference between the Premiership and Europe’s other leagues

is money. Cash brings better players, bigger names, and better promotion, albeit to the detriment of home grown talent. There are other factors contributing towards England’s current dominance such as the refereeing in Champions League games. It seems that as the Premiership grows in importance referees around the globe are adapting to the more physical English game and awarding fewer fouls. This puts Spanish and Italian teams in a position where they have to adapt their more tactical game for European clashes. This was never more apparent then during Real Madrid – Liverpool, where the Liga players were constantly waiting for calls which never came. If you go back and look at the first goal, the one that got Pepe a yellow for arguing, you clearly see Torres with his hand on the defender's shoulder holding him back. The referee did not see it this way though and ‘El Niño’ scored seconds later. In my book, it was a clear foul.

E.F.L Madrid invites you to the

EUROPEAN VIBE  INTERNATIONAL 5-A-SIDE TOURNAMENT

june 09

Enter a team now! All mixes of nationalities and levels of ability welcome. Email [email protected] or [email protected] to register your team. All teams play at least four10-minuteeach-half matches in a relaxed and friendly social environment www.europeanvibe.com www.eflmadrid.com line 6 & 9, metro Sainz de Baranda

Sunday 20 June from 1pm 22

I, however, am a Serie A follower, referee De Bleeckere is clearly not. The difference is not only apparent at professional level. When I arrived in Spain I began playing 7-a-side football. On my first day I slid in on a member of the other team and the guy went down. I was surrounded by the rest of them who told me to, “Take it easy”, that “It was only a game” and that I was “loco”. Over the next couple of weeks I was lectured on how much contact constituted a foul (very little) and had to watch in disbelief as grown men moaned and groaned over every slight knock that occurred on the pitch. Having spent the past four years playing in England where anyone who moans about anything but full on contact is berated; I was and still am amazed. I do feel some empathy for the likes of Carvalho when faced with players of the calibre of Messi; I too could not stand to watch a highly skilled player dance around me without giving into the temptation of sticking a boot out. It’s just that in England I would be praised for a good tackle; here it’s a foul and a torrent of abuse. On the plus side, my technique is improving, slowly, and over the next couple of months I hope to up my passing and other more technical aspects of the game. I am not looking forwards to my return to British soil, where my newfound skills will ensure my ankles receive tough treatment. I will again have to adapt, but that’s fine. I have all the time in the world. A Spanish team drawn against Chelsea does not, and as a result will not be able to pull off any fancy moves without getting slapped in the face from someone like Ballack. So are Spanish, Italian, French and German teams destined to forever be bullied by the big four? Is it goodbye to the Tottis of the world and hello to the Drogbas? Not if they adapt, and given the popularity of the Premiership around the world they just might have to. This might mean the death, or at least temporary decline, of ‘beautiful’ football, depending on your view of the game. The real loser in all this is Russian billionaire Roman Abramovich, who has pumped £600 million into Chelsea just to be left with a team whose only response to Barca’s brilliance is to put 11 men behind the ball and pray.

friendly football in the sun

girls vs. boys Matt Johnson

Disclaimer: The following are actual quotes and conversations from my investigatory adventures and do not necessarily reflect my personal opinions. Me: Let’s play the word association game. I say a word; you tell me the first thing that comes to mind. Okay. Ready? America. Students: Joder. Guns. McDonalds. Rock & Roll. Bush. Beverly Hills. Petrol. Rich. Fat. Mickey Mouse. Miami Vice. Socks with sandals. Monica Lewinski. Should we continue?

Ah, yes. The inevitable American stereotypes. Asked this month to interview my students about what their fellow countrymen really think of mine, I wasn’t sure if it was a properly assigned writing task, or a set up to be the center of a midday office roast. Regardless, I learned a thing or two, had some laughs, and came out relatively unscathed – unless you count my slightly bruised ego, of course. Anyway. So, firing squad ready? Here goes nothin’… “America’s reputation has recently gotten a lot worse because of Bush.” Stemming from an eight year administration characterized by comically bad vocabulary, self serving, misguided military pursuits, and frighteningly nonsensical methods of organized chaos and corruption, it’s been made clear to me that although us Yanks may have been in a bit of a slump as of late, if Britney can come back from her Uncle Fester lookalike days, then dammit, our global image can take a turn for the better, too. “Most everything we think about American people, we get from films.” As long as Hollywood keeps churning out intellectual blockbusters such as Sex and the City, The Fast and the Furious, High School Musical, and Maid in Manhattan, our global street cred will continue to be more shot than MC Hammer at a gangsta rap convention. “Americans know nothing outside their borders.” If the stat is correct that only 10% of US citizens are passport carriers, and an even smaller percentage have actually dared to venture overseas, it wouldn’t be a shocker to learn that even worse than those who’d come to Spain expecting tacos and piñatas, are those who may in fact believe that on either side of our bordering oceans, the world drops off at right angles into the great abyss of outer space. As far as Spaniards are concerned, this fun fact doesn’t fall far from the truth. “Americans think that Spain is Mexico,” they related. “Wait,” I answered, “it’s not?” “Americans actually practice religion.” As one student noted, “In America it’s possible to be a black man in the Whitehouse, but never an atheist.” In Spain, the belief in a higher power is being lost on the younger generations. Saying “God bless you” to a Spaniard would warrant stranger looks than ordering a caña in Klingon. Or so they said. “Americans are extremely competitive.” I myself will take some blame for this one. I have, admittedly, fallen to fisticuffs pending the result of a particularly intense video game rivalry, cussed out a friend for botching a routine fly ball in a friendly fraternity softball game, and participated in blue-faced shouting matches sparked from disagreements regarding topics as trivial as tidily-winks. OK. Guilty as charged. “Americans are obsessed with size – everything is bigger there. And think of all the fat people!” America, sadly enough, does play home to a rather disproportionate population of fatties. We don’t walk a lot. We eat fast foot by the grease-stained bucketful. We slurp sugary sodas by the liter. And the smorgasbord of available satellite stations makes for a powerful ass-to-couch adhesive on a sunny Saturday afternoon. Touché, class. Touché. Among other things, I was able to further gather that Americans are environmentally unfriendly, insensitive to the needs of the poor, straight-laced, honest, patriotic, and simple. It was also brought up that in the States materialism runs rampant like swine flu at a Mexican hookah bar. Okay, okay – enough already! So, there it all is – the truth laid out in full. It can sting a bit, I admit, but sticks & stones…well, you get the point. And although our reputation does seem to be on the upswing, it looks like we Americans still have our work cut out for us – or rather, Obama does at least. As for our future? Well, who knows exactly, but at least us expats can take pride in knowing that Spain, most certainly, is not Mexico.

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culture

WHAT THE SPANIsH THINK ABOUT AMERICANs What do the Spanish really think about Americans? That was the question we put to our girls vs. boys writers this month. One Spaniard and two Americans in Madrid set out to discover the answer.

S

Vanessa Harris

pain and the United States have had a fractured relationship the past few years. Many blame former President Bush’s ‘war on terrorism’ policies and the Spanish government’s support of the invasion of Iraq for the 11 March 2004 Madrid train bombings. Upon his ascension to power, Prime Minister José Luis Rodríguez Zapatero angered Washington when he pulled all Spanish troops from Iraq. It has been especially fun to pick on the more palpable elements of America: the Double Whopper, the tanks disguised as cars rumbling from suburb to suburb in search of the next gas station, and the Governator; oh how America does love elevating its foreign-born superheroes to political high offices.

But has the Spanish attitude changed in one fell swoop of a presidential election? Can one man change the world’s attitude toward America? What is more plausible is that Spaniards give some credit to Americans for not only recognizing the faults of Bush and Co. but lambasting them out of office so that all that is left of the Republicans is Rush Limbaugh in all his sexiness. Americans wanted to change the trajectory of the country and so voted into office a man who they believe will positively change their prospects for the future. Americans voted for Obama because he breathed life into the democratic process; he brought politics back to the people by making it relevant. Whether or not he is all hype remains to be seen. But what do Spaniards really think of Americans? Enrique B. Juarez, who works in marketing, says, “I admire Americans because, despite living in America or being born in other countries, they feel their country as one of the biggest things. They identify with it and fight for it…and they look out for one another, it is not each to his own.” Daniel Blasco is less optimistic. “I think that being a young country, [Americans] have an excessive sense of patriotism. There is too much capitalism and little state coverage, things that in Europe are totally assumed by the state, there, are privatized. I think this is unfavorable to people without resources, therefore dividing a lot of society,” Blasco says. On the other hand he says, “[Americans] occupy a region that is rich in natural resources and are some of the most innovative people in the world and in this way the system that they have formed is very solid.” Regarding the elections, Blasco continues, “It could not have been any other way.” Still, some opinions are more moderate. Rafa Rodrigo Zazo, advertising student, says, “The Americans I know are quite open-minded and sociable.” Andres Olmos, a madrileño lawyer says, “I love Americans. They are fun, easy-going and open.” It seems there is a line drawn between the people and the politics. Whereas the politicians frustrate, the people please. But, according to Zazo, “Americans seem to do whatever their leaders do whether it is George Bush or Barack Obama.” As Obama’s open personality seems to be more aligned with what Spaniards think of American people, then hopefully in the not-so-distant future, Spaniards will agree with America's politics as easily as its citizens.

E

Laura Ramos

stados Unidos despierta a un tiempo admiración, envidia, miedo y odio en muchas partes del mundo. Los españoles miramos con admiración su esfuerzo en investigación científica y tecnológica, la creatividad de sus empresas, el afán de superación de muchos de sus ciudadanos, el trabajo duro y su capacidad de arriesgar que les llevan a excelentes resultados.

Muchos envidian su cultura del espectáculo. En España existe escaso amor por nuestro cine y gran afición por las superproducciones estadounidenses. Gustan las grandes inversiones y efectos especiales y los temas que se tratan. Gran parte del público huye de las películas intimistas y de corte sencillo que caracterizan al cine europeo y prefiere los proyectos ambiciosos de tecnología punta e historias fuera de lo común que le trasladan a otras realidades. El amor por el deporte y el duro entrenamiento de sus deportistas es otra de las cosas que los españoles más apreciamos de los estadounidenses. Los jugadores de la NBA destacan entre los deportistas más admirados por su capacidad de convertir cada partido en un auténtico espectáculo. La lengua americana se asocia por un lado a los productos de calidad, a lo que está «en la onda», a lo joven y positivo. Pero, por otro lado también se percibe como muestra de la invasión de la cultura americana en la nuestra. Hay quien habla de «imperialismo lingüístico», una de las consecuencias de la dominación de EEUU sobre los demás países del mundo. Cuando hablamos de imperialismo llegamos a los aspectos de EEUU que menos les gustan a muchos españoles. Es evidente que la política tiene mucho que ver en la percepción que tenemos de la primera potencia mundial. EEUU encarna el liberalismo en su máxima expresión, el belicismo y el etnocentrismo. A muchos españoles les cuesta entender el sistema sanitario estadounidense, que a veces se tilda de poco humano. Tampoco gusta el afán de EEUU por participar en guerras. Las guerras de Vietnam y de Irak destacan entre las más denostadas por los críticos de EEUU. Tampoco gusta que en muchos estados exista gran facilidad para comprar armas. La película «Bowling for Columbine» contribuyó a hacernos ver que la posesión de armas alimentaba más el miedo y la violencia, como una pescadilla que se muerde la cola. Muchos estadounidenses sienten que su país es el centro del mundo. Esa es otra de las razones por las que algunos españoles rechazan lo americano. Entienden que EEUU quiere imponer su modo de ver las cosas al resto del mundo, sin respetar otras formas de practicar y entender la vida y, además, esquilmando los recursos de los países más desfavorecidos en su beneficio y en perjuicio de los últimos. Los años de Bush Jr contribuyeron a perjudicar la imagen exterior de Estados Unidos y la llegada de Obama, vista como un nuevo amanecer por tantos estadounidenses, despierta también la simpatía de muchos españoles. Porque muestra que se han superado prejuicios raciales y porque se espera que signifique una ruptura con el legado de Bush Jr. Es la historia del sueño americano hecha realidad, pero también a veces se mira con cierto escepticismo. Españoles de distintas opciones políticas tienen esperanzas puestas en Obama, pero también creen que no podrá solucionar tantos problemas como en EEUU muchos esperan de él. También sorprende a los españoles, acostumbrados a criticar constantemente a sus políticos y a desconfiar de ellos, la enorme confianza y admiración que despiertan y han despertado los diversos presidentes en el gran país americano. Estados Unidos en España fascina a la vez que asusta, ilusiona a la vez que desilusiona. Tenemos una historia de amor-odio con la primera potencia mundial.

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No Mola nada

Emilio Mola: The Caudillo that Never Was General Mola’s death in June 1937 left Franco the unrivalled leader of Nationalist Spain. Martin Quinn tells the story of ‘El Director’, the architect of the Fascist campaign in the north during the Spanish Civil War. WORDS by Martin Quinn

“W

hat if?” is a commonly applied expression in the English language. I’m not sure of its usefulness although it’s something I occasionally do myself. “What if ETA hadn’t killed Carrero Blanco back in ’73? How would that have affected the democratic transition? And would it have heralded a continuation of the dictatorship?” I asked this to a class of PP supporters and semi-apologists for the dictatorship once. The answer I got was that it was impossible to predict what the good Admiral’s government would have been like. The comment, for me, stank of justification for Franco’s regime, but I felt it was a fair enough point, because you can never really tell. And so it goes with Emilio Mola. What, good or bad, would have happened had he lived longer, we’ll never know. He was one of the evil geniuses behind the coup which became the Spanish Civil War and the prelude for World War II. Born in Cuba in 1887, he began his army career in 1907 in the Infantry Academy at Toledo. A decorated soldier from the Rif War between Spain and Morocco, he had become Director of Security by 1930, the year before the formation of the Second Republic. Because of his political stances he was unpopular with the Left. In 1936, the newly-elected Popular Front sent him packing to Pamplona as Military Governor in an attempt to isolate him. They thought of Navarra as being out of the way but it was to prove a fatal mistake. Mola joined the planning process for a coup in the Carlist-infested area along with officers loyal to the exiled General José

Sanjurjo. The coup swung into action on 18 July, 1936 after days of unrest. As the situation developed into civil war, Mola became the Nationalist northern commander while Francisco Franco headed up the south. He was considered cold and divisive and went as far as leaving his brother to be executed. When the government captured his brother and threatened his life, Mola replied, “He knows how to die as an officer. I can neither take back my word to my followers and probably you cannot either from yours”. It seems cold but maybe the words of a practical leader. What really iced up Emilio Mola’s reputation however, was what he did next. He ordered public executions of prisoners and Republican sympathisers to instill fear. As the killings continued they evolved into a systematic purge of all elements in disagreement with the Nationalists. Mola apparently expressed shock at how the process unfolded, but Franco, chosen over him as Commander-inChief, had developed it into a form of ‘political cleansing’. In addition to the public executions, Mola introduced a tactic and phrase now in the military lexis: The Fifth Column. He had attempted to take Madrid with four columns of troops and announced that Nationalist followers inside the city would provide an extra line of support to destroy the enemy from within. Ultimately, it failed and Madrid held on until the end of the war, but the tactic remains until this day in most theatres of conflict. It was subsequently used by antifascists like the French Resistance, who used the tactic to provide help and clear the way for the advancing Allies during World War II.

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Mola understood how to divide and conquer perfectly. This was demonstrated by the fall of Bilbao in July 1937, which happened about a week after Mola’s death, though it had been orchestrated by him. It was also a demonstration of Republican inability to stand united because of infighting and defections. Guernica, which lay between Bilbao and the Nationalists, had suffered the now-infamous terror bombing by the Nazi Condor Legion in April. This left a clear path for the Fascist army to attack the Biscayne city and win total control of the north. Bilbao’s defences - its ‘Ring of Iron’ - crumbled in front of Mola’s troops thanks to the efforts of its two main engineers, who had defected to the Nationalists. The second defector, a man called Goiketxea was from a strong Basque nationalist family involved in the PNV; an impressive feat for the Fascists and a sickener for the beleaguered Basques. Bilbao was being attacked by the Condor Legion and the Basque and central governments started arguing because of the lack of support the Basques felt they were receiving. In addition, a message from the Vatican setting out Mola and Franco’s terms of surrender for the Basques was mistakenly wired through Barcelona instead of London. The central government didn’t pass the message on and then condemned the oblivious Basques. Along with the recent fighting between Communists and Anarchists in Barcelona and the fall of President Largo Caballero (blamed on the Basques), Mola took advantage of Republican discord and his success stretched beyond his death into the jaws of a Fascist victory. Mola died mysteriously in a plane crash during the war just like the

coup’s original leader, Sanjurjo, who also died mysteriously in a plane crash during the war. This has led to the eye of suspicion being directed towards Franco, and conspiracy theorists have suggested that the Generalissimo was behind both incidents. However, no evidence has ever been produced to back the claim and, in all fairness, Sanjurjo’s death seems to have been his own fault. This is considering the fact he overloaded his small plane with clothes to return from exile as the best-dressed tinpot dictator in Europe. He also apparently refused a larger plane (which, coincidentally, Franco had previously used) for one which was to fly him back to Spain by a “daring aviator”. Mola’s accident seemed to be just that: an accident that happened in bad weather while flying to Vitoria. Bad relations did exist between Mola and Franco, as the latter was appointed head of state and maximum general, at which Mola was livid. But there is simply nothing more than the old Latin expression, Qui Bono? to condemn Franco. Their power struggle ultimately raises the “What If?” question. Mola, the political General and Franco the plain old General. Franco’s regime was more militaristic as opposed to Mola’s vision of a republican directorate with an actual social program. Franco’s previous non-involvement in politics meant he had acquired very few political enemies, making it relatively easy to unite factions such as the Carlists and Falangists. He had better relations with the Nazis, though this was to change. Franco believed that he was waging a war of darkness and light, which was demonstrated by the evolution of Mola’s summary executions into full-scale White Terror. As the Germans came to realize this, his ability to rule a country that was to possibly participate on the Axis side in the coming war was questioned. The last thing Germany needed was to feed a starving nation without an industrial proletariat (or at least which the vindictive Franco seemed intent on wiping out for their betrayal). It is also said Hitler preferred liaising with his dentist than dealing with Franco, who the Führer allegedly referred to as a “Jesuit Swine”. Mola however, although not having good relations with the Third Reich, was much more practical. There might not have been the same level of killings in a Molista Spain, but his use of terror for terror’s sake may have left him in charge of a regime more able to join the other European Fascist powers in a global war. And his legacy? The area where Mola’s plane crashed is called Alcocero de Mola, in his honour. A historical memory law was passed some years back to rid Spain of Franquista names and symbols. It has, of course been vehemently opposed by the People’s Party, who are partly descended from the Franquista movement. Despite this, most Fascist street and place names are now gone, but Mola’s remains. The country moves on, but the ghost of a monster among monsters still haunts the north and its name is plain for all to see.

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What do you fancy tonight?

food

eat out guide

American

Hard Rock Cafe Pº de la Castellana, 2

Colón/Serrano

Traditional Spanish

Brand new Indian restaurant in Madrid! Exquisite Indian cuisine, in a stunning and central location, right beside Madrid’s famous Plaza Mayor. Terrace now open. Tel: 913 669 099 Mob: 662 503 469

Mister India

Plaza de la Provincia, 3 Sol/Antón Martin Lavapies Plaza de Lavapies, 5

Traditional Spanish food, in a traditional Spanish atmosphere, with flamenco music and a terrace right in the centre of Madrid. Try the typical “croquetas de jamón” or the house speciality “Don Paco” dish. Open all day from 10am to 2am. Tel: 91 522 9050

La Tía Cebolla c/ de la Cruz, 27

Sol

La Herradura c/ Montserrat, 32

San Bernardo/Plaza de España

Brand new Indian restaurant located in the Heart of Madrid. Traditional Punjab dishes served by friendly Indian staff. Call for details of special Bollywood dancing shows performed in the restaurant. Open 1-4pm and 8pm-midnight. Tel: 91 523 4570 www.currys.es

Curry’s Indian Restaurant c/ Silva, 16

Callao

Argentinian Basilicco Santa Teresa, 12 ( Alonso Martinez). Tel: 91 308 0102 El Gaucho Tetuán, 34 ( Sol). Tel: 91 522 4793 La Vaca Argentina Bailén, 20 ( La Latina). Tel: 91 365 6654

Cuban

Centrally located Argentinian steak house with a rustic, welcoming atmosphere. Enjoy traditional Argentinian cuisine such as pizza, pasta, and grilled meat. Variety of vegetarian options available. Open every day ‘til late. Average price 15/20€ per head, lunch menu only 9,50€. Il Piccolino Della Farfalla Tel: 91 369 4391 La Farfalla Tel: 91 369 4691 Il Piccolino Della Farfalla c/ Huertas, 6 Antón Martín La Farfalla c/ Santa María, 17 Antón Martín

Guru Indian Restaurant c/ Echegaray 21

Enjoy a wide variety of traditional Indian cuisine. With over 40 dishes to choose from, you will be spoilt for choice. Open daily 1-4 pm and 8.30-11.30 pm. Set menu and take away food available. www.restaurantetaj.com

Modern/International Cuisine

Taj

c/ Cruz 13 Sol/Sevilla. Tel: 91 522 3595 c/ Marqués De Cubas 6 Banco de España. Tel: 91 531 5059 / 91 521 63 27

Creative cuisine in a casual, friendly atmosphere. Lunch served Tuesday to Friday, Dinner served Tuesday to Saturday, brunch served on Sundays. Tel: 91 547 4996

Toma c/ Conde Duque, 14

Bright, colourfully furnished Indian restaurant located in Madrid’s trendy Chueca area. Open since 1985, it is a busy little place and quite reasonably priced at around 18/20€ per head. 3 course lunch or “menu del día” is served from 1.30pm- 4.30pm, dinner from 8.30pm- 12.30am. Open every day. Tel: 91 391 4586

Plaza de España

Vegetarian

Taj Mahal c/ Belén, 12 A pleasant surprise for non-vegetarians. Rustic, Andalusian tavern-style décor, extensive and surprisingly tasty menu. Located in the heart of the bustling La Latina area. Open every day, 1pm- 4.30pm, 8pm-12.30pm. Tel: 91 365 8982

El Estragón Pl. Paja, 10 Madrid de los Austrias

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june 09

La Latina

Sol/ Sevilla

Chueca/Alonso Martínez

Annapurna Zurbano, 5 ( Alonso Martínez). Tel: 91 319 8716 Arga Isabel la Católica, 9 ( Santo Domingo). Tel: 91 542 2756 Bombay Palace Fernán González, 54 ( Ibiza). Tel: 91 574 1930 Delhi Duque de Osuna, 6 ( Plaza de España). Tel: 91 542 8451 Ganga Alameda, 6 ( Atocha). Tel: 91 369 4273 Moharaj Buenavista, 42 ( Lavapies). Tel: 91 528 5289 / 91 539 2829 Passage to India Ave María, 18 ( Antón Martin). Tel: 91 527 1787 Tandoori Station Jose Ortega y Gasset, 89 ( Lista/Manuel Becerra). Tel: 91 401 2228

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Taberna La Romana c/ Factor, 8

Ópera/Sol

“Let’s Noodle” Madrid’s very first noodle bar. Fast, healthy and fun food served in the heart of Madrid’s Chueca district, in a pleasant and modern atmosphere. Take-away service available. Open Mon- Sun 1pm-1am. Tel: 91 522 3333

Enjoy typical Andalusian food, original décor, oriental dance shows and a cultural fusion every day of the year… Not to be missed!! Tel: 90 233 3334 www.medinamayrit.com

Medina Mayrit c/ Atocha, 14

Sol/Tirso de Molina

Bazaar San Marcos, 35 ( Chueca). Tel: 91 523 1505 Casa Mingo Paseo de la Florida, 34 ( Príncipe Pío). Tel: 91 547 7918 La Cueva del Faisán Espoz y Mina,15 ( Sol). Tel: 676 287 654 A Cuerpo De Rey Hilarión Eslava, 27 ( Moncloa). Tel: 91 549 4338

Spanish Tapas Traditional Indian restaurant- offering a variety of rich Indian cuisine infused with the best authentic ingredients. Located in the centre of Madrid and open daily 1-4 pm and 8-12 pm. Set menu available everyday from 1-4 pm for 9.95€. Tel: 91 360 0706 www.gurumadrid.es

Authentic Spanish cuisine in the center of Madrid with competitive prices. Specialities in tapas and local dishes along with a wide range of wines from“Bodegas Casagrande” Come and visit our caves! From 1pm to 4pm and from 8:30pm to 12pm Sundays and Mondays evenings closed. Tel: 91 559 0404 www.tabernalaromanareal.com

Japanese

Mexican /Tex-Mex

Experience our traditional Mexican cuisine in an authentic atmosphere. In a relaxed environment enjoy one of our specialities, the fajitas, mixtas and prawn tacos. With space for large groups, there is fun for everyone! Open Mon-Thurs: 1pm-4pm and 8pm-12pm, Friday to Sunday: 1pm-4pm and 8pm to 1:30 am. Tel: 91 542 3936 www.cantinalaherradura.com.es

food Antiguo Torre Narigües

Celebrate with us like we’re back in the 70s, when Hard Rock Cafe first opened its doors in London. The first 38 people through the doors can order the Hard Rock Legendary burger for only 71 cents. Live music performance by “The Sons of Rock” (21:00). Free birthday cake for all diners. Open 12:30 to 2:00. Tel: 91 436 4340 www.hardrock.com

The original Hard Rock Cafe London

eat out guide Spanish

Indian

JUne 14

What do you fancy tonight?

La Casa del Abuelo Victoria, 12 ( Sol). Tel: 91 521 2319 Malaspina Cádiz, 9 ( Sol). Tel: 91 523 4024

Circus Noodle Bar c/ Libertad, 13

Chueca

Ayala Japón Ayala, 67 ( Lista). Tel: 91 309 5625 Furama Paseo de la Florida, 2 ( Príncipe Pío). Tel: 91 548 7658

Chinese House Of Ming Pº de la Castellana, 74 ( G Marañón). Tel: 91 561 9827 Tse Yang Pº Castellana, 22 ( Ruben Dario). Tel: 91 431 1888 Zen Central Puigcerdá, 6 ( Serrano). Tel: 91 431 1233

Free Services/Classifieds

30 words max: (not applicable to businesses) accommodation, clubs, intercambios. Send to [email protected]

Paid Services/Classifieds

inspirational madrid so I had to take it back to the bank the next day and the bank manager wanted to know if I was absolutely sure that I wanted to set up my own business. So I had little problems like that when I first started.

inspirational madrid - no.8

London - Madrid Natasha Mason

This month’s interviewee is Natasha Mason, founder of teacher training company TtMadrid. Frustration and wine nearly led to her company being officially named Top Totty- the British female entrepreneur talks to Helen Macrae about how she came to Madrid, the barriers she faced in setting up her business and the future of the crisis stricken English teaching industry. interview by Helen Macrae

S

o, tell me a bit about how you ended up in Madrid. I came, like many people do, for love. It was about five years ago now. My thenboyfriend had been working here for six years and I’d been going back and forth at the weekends, and working in London. And finally he decided that he wasn’t coming home, I was heading towards late-20s and thought, “Alright, I’m coming to get you! You can’t hide”, so I packed up, shipped out and came, arrived, no Spanish, no job and my background was law and human resources. So, did a TEFL course, ‘cos what does a girl do ... when she speaks no Spanish? Started teaching business English, only business English, I never taught children or anything like that. I thought it was going to be really difficult to get work and put my name, phone number everywhere in Madrid, every newspaper, everything, and just got a stupid amount of hours and of course accepted the first 10 offers I got and ran round Madrid for the first year like a lunatic. Then slowly got into the training side of it, I think with my background in human resources and training and development, which I’d done my Master’s in; it was a natural progression for me. And I started working in that and then, went out, had a few bottles of wine with some girlfriends and thought, “Right, I’m setting up my own business!” Were there many barriers to setting up your own business in Spain? There were, I just didn’t know about any of them... I think if I’d known how difficult it was going to be, I

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wouldn’t have done it. And I don’t think it’s necessarily stupidly difficult now if you know people, but I didn’t really know many people. The contacts I had were effectively going to be my competition, so it wasn’t as if I could go and say, “So I’m thinking of setting up my own TEFL school, what tips can you give me?” So it’s things like that. Getting the telephone line into the school took us nine weeks and at one stage as I was screaming down the phone at Telefónica the woman pointed out that maybe the reason I lived in Spain was for a more relaxed lifestyle, and maybe that wasn’t working out for me, to which I said thanks very much for the advice, and what about my telephone line? It’s just fraught with complications like that. I accidentally set €2000 on fire and that was a bit of a problem. It was the last 2000 I had of the money to set up, it wasn’t enough to do everything I needed to do, and I was with a friend of mine Rae counting it out, and however well I counted it, it didn’t match what I needed and so she said “Look, put it to one side and let’s revisit it tomorrow morning again” and I put it to the side and I accidentally put it on top of a candle, so a second later she’s like “What’s that smell?” It was €2000, half it was burnt, literally like half of the notes,

june 09

services

Prices: - plain - 15€ with colour 25€ (17th of each month) Payment must be received by the deadline. Call 91 549 77 11 or email: [email protected] to arrange payment.

Did you find being a woman put more barriers in your way? I think it did, I mean when we go for meetings at banks and to sign at the notarios and things like that, they often ask us where our husbands are, or our business partners, and we’re like, “At home with the baby, where any good husband should be”. They actually find us more amusing than anything else, they think it’s really funny, especially foreign women... So it’s helped then? I think in a way it has, in a good way, there’s lots of grants available, lots of help available and there are some really amazing mujeres groups here, where you can access advice and funding... we didn’t know about all of them when I first set up, and you can only get a lot of them for the first year, but for example they would have helped us with a free loan to get all the computers and printers and things like that, we could have got all our constitutional documents done for free. Definitely an all-female business helps in terms of things we could access, and just our amusement value to other people, like the bank manager saying do you want pink credit cards....and we’re like, “Ok, whatever...” You’ve not encountered any sort of machista attitudes? I think the banks were a little bit, because we don’t have men involved in our business, they do feel a bit uncomfortable that our husbands are not there signing documents and things, and now because I got married in Spain my husband has to come and sign some parts even though he’s not connected with the business, which I find frustrating. But it’s Spain and the reason we live here is because it’s a little different. But no, I would say in general being an all-female business has actually been fine, or an advantage. How is the English teaching sector at the moment? Spaniards are worrying about jobs and wanting to increase their level of English and their companies are not necessarily providing it. I think the level can only go so far in Spain - companies get an awful lot of money funded for their English classes and they have to spend a certain amount per head. I mean we’ve

g nights where our– ve sushi makin we often ha how to makeowsuseahich rn lea d an e com graduatesat way for them to get to kn share it’s a gre is is important so they can er. other.  Th ge and support one anoth knowled

still got to wait and see, I think the big tipping point will be September. What do you think will happen? What do you think the future is? I really don’t think it’s going to go down much more than it’s gone down, I think it’s gone down about 20% and I really don’t think it’s going to go down much more than that, because of the amount of money that the companies get from the government and things like that. And I think when things come back online, Madrid will go back to being crazy crazy. I actually don’t think it’s a bad thing at the moment, I think it’s bringing back quality into the market. I think for us it’s good because the agencies can now be more picky. They used to phone us up and we’d be like “What are you looking for? We might have a graduate” and they’d be like, “Two arms, two legs, and even that can be negotiable”. So I think what’s nice now is they want them to have the TEFL cert, which is great for us. They want them to be a bit older, which we generally have, some business background again, which most of our graduates have. So I think in that, it’s bringing a little bit more quality back and I think the companies as well can be a bit more choosy. What do you wish you’d known when you first came here? Oh gosh, that it would have been easier not to have a boyfriend when I arrived and to find myself a Spanish one to help with my language. But having married him now, I can see the benefits. Definitely the only way, at our age, to really get to grips with the language is to have a Spanish boyfriend. I think I’d have liked to have known that teaching was a real job. I think that it’s that there are so many opportunities that can come out of it, and I expected when I arrived here, when I thought about teaching English, that I was going to be teaching kids in a school. Nothing wrong with that, but that wasn’t at all what I ended up doing, and I got to teach the director of finance at KPMG, director of this, director of that, lots of people who have helped me in my professional life since. So I found those kinds of links and the access I got to the absolute movers and shakers of Madrid, that you would never have access to just as an employee. But I just think, for me, knowing the things I could gain out of teaching business English in Madrid, that it was a proper grown-up job, and that it didn’t have to be forever but it could launch me into something else, that I would meet someone who inspired something in me that meant I could set up something on my own - I think that’s what I would If you know interesthave liked to have ing former or current known. Madrid residents, send us the details at this email address

[email protected]

We are looking for:

Dynamic, motivated professionals with a university degree and TEFL, with 1+ years teaching experience, eligible to work in Spain

You are looking for: A well-established, centrally located school Attractive salaries Free Spanish classes

Are you an English Teacher? Come work with us! www.americanlanguage.es [email protected] 91-445 5511 C/ Rodríguez San Pedro, 2 Metro: San Bernardo

>Jobs Dynamic telemarketing company is looking for individuals to work in a high energy office environment. Applicants must speak fluent English. Basic salary and bonus package offered. If interested, contact Mark on 91 703 0222. TEFL qualified, experienced British teacher available for lunchtime classes or summer work in July (preferably on contract). I can be contacted at [email protected] or on 655080114.

Sales Positions Available

European Vibe is in the process of expanding. If you are fluent in both English and Spanish, and feel you have what it takes to add to our sales team, send a cv to [email protected] salaries with good commissions available. Event Management. Need to prepare social functions or events in Spain?Call me!  Spanish Experienced event manager, I achieve with maximum efficiency and exclusiveness the planning, organization and execution of events, that live on because of their uniqueness. Give me a call at: 669.00.83.93  e-mail: [email protected] Writers with Talent If you think you are a talented writer and would like to see some of your articles and interviews published, send some examples of your work and a CV to [email protected]

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Dynamic telemarketing company is looking for individuals to work in a high energy office environment. Applicants must speak fluent English. Basic salary and bonus package offered. If interested, contact Mark on 91 703 0222.

>Language exchange Small English-Spanish language exchange group in Madrid. It’s opened to all English & Spanish native speakers (nationality doesn’t mind ). Meetings 2 / month in a nice coffeshop (not too noisy!) Where we all could speak in both languages in a friendly atmosphere. More info: [email protected] INTERCAMBIO DE IDIOMAS GRATUITO cada domingo a las 7 en

www.trainingexpress.es

WHAT YOU WANT AND MORE! Enjoy your life in Madrid to the full! Work for Training Express, leaders in language learning   Great work opportunities Excellent rates per hour Free spanish lessons and much much more...

Interested and have an EU work permit? Contact us NOW: [email protected] TEL: 91-5211554

el pub The Quiet Man (c/ Valverde, 44 - metro Tribunal). Ven a intercambiar idiomas gratis y a hacer nuevos amigos de todo el mundo en un ambiente acogedor. E-mail: [email protected] Web: http://www.facebook.com/group. php?gid=19732127016 Young non profit - Group invite you to share languages,English & Spanish,& interests.Meetings Saturday 10pm. Email: [email protected] MADRIDBABEL: Meet Spanish/ International people from 30 different nationalities & exchange languages absolutely FREE every WEDNESDAY evening from 9:30 till late. Join us at Café Madrid (c/Escalinata, s/n - metro Opera). Ask for Fran ([email protected]). Website: http://es.groups.yahoo.com/ group/madridbabel

>Internships Internships now available with a professional, young and growing Madrid based company. Gain knowledge and experience in the work place in the areas of Graphic Design, Marketing, PR and Journalism. Flexible hours available and full references given on completion of Internship. Send a full CV to [email protected]

>Clubs Un grupo de teatro en Ingles te necesita! Si tienes pasión por la actuación y además quisieras mejorar tu Inglés entonces este curso es para ti. Los talleres se llevaran a cabo una vez a la semana en Madrid, para adultos con interés al teatro en Inglés. Practica tu pronunciación y entonación en Ingles con técnicas de teatro, juegos, y actuaciones. Improvisación, diálogos, y todo material que se necesite será proporcionado por el líder del grupo, el cual es un nativo de Inglaterra. Los grupos tienen un máximo de 12 personas. Cada míercoles a las 21.00 a 22.30 cerca de la Plaza de Santa Ana, Metros Sol y Sevilla. 10 euros por una hora y media. Para más información por favor mándame un e-mail a: teatroeningles@ hotmail.es English Reading Circle at the International Institute Library. Monthly meetings to discuss English literature in English. For more information visit www.iie.es or write to [email protected]. Public Speaking and Networking Group. International group that meets to improve public speaking skills. 2nd & 4th Thursday each month at 2030 Bar Locandita (C/Fuencarral 148) Contact:standingovationmadrid@yahoo. com or Chris 695 513 466. Democrats Abroad Madrid Info: es.democratsabroad.org

Teach English

with Hot English Language Services We are continuously recruiting TEFL-qualified, native English teachers to give company classes at our prestigious clients’ offices. We offer good rates of pay and timetables and excellent pedagogical support from our teaching and editorial team, plus our very own teaching method.

Please send your CV to: [email protected]  or call 91 455 0273 www.hotenglishmagazine.com

>Language Academies

CARPE DIEM SPANISH SCHOOL

Want to have fun while learning Spanish?

Seize the day and join Carpe Diem school in Madrid

C/ Fuencarral, 13 2º derecha. 28004 Tel: 915223122 www.carpemadrid.com

• Flexible schedules • Accommodation • Small groups, max 7 students per class • DELE Exam preparation • Private lessons

>>

more services

www.europeanvibe.com

june 09

29

>>services

Free Services/Classifieds

30 words max: (not applicable to businesses) accommodation, clubs, intercambios. Send to [email protected]

more services

Paid Services/Classifieds

Prices: - plain - 15€ with colour 25€ (17th of each month) Payment must be received by the deadline. Call 91 549 77 11 or email: [email protected] to arrange payment.

Australian Alumni Association of Spain Meet, network and socialize with people who have studied or lived in Australia and are now in Spain. Email [email protected] to receive updates on upcoming events. Writers’ group Writers with work in progress and a view to publication welcome. Call Charlie on 91 816 2419, or e-mail [email protected] The Australian Club in Madrid meets 9pm first Friday of each month at the Irish Rover, Avda. De Brasil, 7. Metro Santiago Bernabeu. For more info call Jeff on 669 458 341, or visit website: www.australiaspain.com/gudonya, or email: [email protected] Madrid Players, English-language theatrical group. We put on plays, small productions, do in-house readings, improvisations, etc. We meet every Thursday. For info call 91 521 16 98 or 91 564 57 01.

American Dentist Dr. Ivan Cabrera Santamaria OFFERS FIRST QUALITY DENTAL CARE

SPECIALISES IN GENERAL & COSMETIC DENTISTRY, IMPLANTS AND CONTACT LENS-THIN VENEERS. orthodontist FOR CHILDREN AND ADULTS. Board Certified by the State of Florida (USA) Licence no: DN0013865 Member of “Colegio de Odontólogos” Spain Member of the American Dental Association

Tel: 914 458 916 Calle Carranza, 20, 10B Metro San Bernardo

>Sports Clubs Cricket in Madrid Madrid Cricket Club is looking for players of all levels and nationalities. Play in the Spanish league! Contact David (670087637) or Manny (627557572) Snooker: Right on Cue and in the Frame. Fancy a break and a Snooker experience second to none? Cue Mark on 618 784 550 or email [email protected] Madrid Hash House Harriers: meets every weekend rain, shine or credit crunch. We sprint, run or crawl a trail for about one hour somewhere outside Madrid and returnto a welcoming can or three of beer. Visit www.madridhhh.com or call Paul on 691666147 Thai boxing club in Madrid welcomes new members of all sexes & levels to learn this amazing sport, get fit, lean & hard. Visit www.muaythaimadrid. com email [email protected] or call David on 662164877. Hockey! Come along and join us at the weekends for mixed non-league field/ grass hockey on water-based astroturf. We play at the Federación Madrileña de Hockey (opposite the Somontes sports club on the Madrid-El Pardo road) Email: [email protected] for more info. Basketball Madrid. Meet new people, get fit and enjoy yourself. People wanted to practice basketball once a week. Active social calander. Contact Rob at 697 345 613 or visit www.basketballpractice.myfree.org. Madrid Lions Rugby Club needs you! All nationalities and player levels welcome. More information from Charlie on 636 067 716 and website www. madridlionsrfc.com Youth Baseball. Close to Alcala de Henares. We need coaches, players and anyone able to help us develop a youth league in this area. Tel Jose on: 91 879 3068 (eves)

>Accommodation MONKEYHOUSING.COM Si tienes un piso o habitación y estas interesado en encontrar gente, nosotros te ayudamos. Mandanos un email con la información y tu piso/habitación se alquilará en 3 días máximo. email: [email protected] telf: 915497711 www.monkeyhousing.com

>Miscellaneous Proinc Construction 918464363 [email protected] Pancarta.es is Spain’s leading print service for international clients. Everything from exhibitions to business cards. All in English! www.pancarta.es 622 142 385 - 931 924 153

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>Beauty, health and Fitness BootCamp Training in Madrid, Get fit, lose weight, get tough and ready for summer. This ain’t your mommas aerobics Class! visit www.davidhughes,es/ bootcamp or email [email protected] for more info. Aerobics club Cheryl 677244074 [email protected] Personal Trainer www.davidhughes.es Tel: 662164877. Hair and Make up artist Shimanda 914457149/699362500 Shimanda11@ hotmail.co.uk US Psychotherapist David Hugener 915942208 Mobile Hairdresser Sally 918425443

>Support Groups Alcoholics Anonymous Madrid meeting. Daily meetings in English  Juan Bravo 40, Bis Call 913091947 or visit website: www.madridaa.com Counselling Madrid. At Counselling Madrid we provide confidential counselling services to the international community. We help clients dealing with anxiety, depression, low self-esteem, GAD and OCD. For more info please visit www.counsellingmadrid. org or send your email to joseph@ counsellingmadrid.org Tel 648 087 809 Therapy Group Peter 936759276 or Claudia 934177860

> Useful Telephone Numbers National information 11818 / 11850 / 11828 International information 11825 Madrid tourism Centre: Plaza Mayor, 27 (bajo), 91 588 16 36 turismo@ munimadrid.es Metro: Sol. Lost and Found: Paseo del Molino, 7 91 527 95 90 Metro: Legazpi Cancellation of credit cards 90 0 971231 (free call) Emergencies: 112 National police: 091 Municipal police: 092 Complaints by phone: 90 210 2112 / 91 548 8537 (Tourist and foreigner customer service dept) Teletaxi: 91 371 2131 / 91 371 3711 Barajas airport (T1, T2 & T3): 91 305 8343 T4: 90 240 4704 www.aena.es Railway: 902 24 02 02 www.renfe.es 24-HOUR PHARMACIES C/Conde de Peñalver, 27. Tel: 91 402 43 04 Metro: Goya-Lista. C/Ferraz, 13 Tel: 91 547 05 72. Metro: Ventura Rodríguez. C/ Goya, 89 Tel: 91 435 49 58. Metro: Goya. C/ Mayor, 59 Tel: 91 559 23 95. Metro: Sol. C/ Atocha, 46 Tel: 91 369 20 00. Metro: Atocha.

june 09

Pick up your free copy of European Vibe magazine from any of the places listed. To Be On Our Distribution List Email: [email protected] -

numbers indicate Madrid metro lines

Alcalá de Henares

Instituto de Hotelería y Turismo

Avenida de América

Centro de Estudios Internacional - CIS

Bilbao

La Musa LSI Madrid Molly Malones Schiller International University The Things That You Miss

Callao

Universal Music

Curry’s Studio 54 Mercado de la Reina

Alonso Cano

Of. Turismo Chamartín

Avenida de la Paz

Club de Español El Cano Tavern International House Finnegans O’Conners Pasajes

Alonso Martínez Areia Blood Brothers British Council British Embassy Club Ivy Funiversal La Parpusa

Antón Martín

Hotel Tryp Atocha Inti de Oro Zoe Café

Argüelles

Always School of English Star Café Finbar’s Icade University Enforex

Banco de España

James Joyce Tandem

Aeropuerto T1-T2-T3

Barajas Information

Chamartín

Chueca

Areia Circus Noodle Bar

Ciudad Universitaria

Tulane University Universitaria Complutense (servicio de informacion) IES Programme

Colón

Hard Rock Café

Concha Espina

N.Y.U.

Cuzco

Larry’s Bar Warner

Diego de León Bo Finn

Cercanías

Gran Vía

Carpe Diem Shooters

Gregorio Marañón Booksellers Fórmula.Sil

Hospital del Norte

The Food Hall

Iglesia

Plaza de Anyway España A y Z Spanish Lang. Actual Plus British Council University of Mississippi Connect@ Las Mil y Una Noches Islas Filipinas TGI Friday’s Siam American Store La Latina

La Taquería de Birra El Estragon

Lavapiés

Café Barbieri La Librería de Lavapies

Manuel Becerra Tandoori Station

Metropolitano

St. Louis University Suffolk University

Moncloa

American Store European Vibe Office Public House

Noviciado

Sony BMG

J & J Books and Coffee Kabokla Scruffy Murphy’s

Francos Rodríguez

Núñez de Balboa

Esperanza

Universidad Antonio de Nebrija

Goya

Casa del Libro Todo Españo

Beer Station Café Madrid Dark Tattoo El Imperfecto Eureka Hostal Oriente Idiomas Plus International Bookshop Los AmigosBackpackers’ Hostel O’Brien’s Vanadillo Zeppelin Viajes

St. George’s Church USA Embassy

Ópera

Academia Contacto Bangkok

Príncipe Pío

Hotel Florida Norte Lokua República Argentina Taste of America

Retiro

Ele. Madrid Unidad Medica

Rubén Darío

Babylon Idiomas Cubik Tony’s Café Interpublic Internet Center Inti de Oro Miau Regina

Sol

Artemisa Cine Ideal C.E.E. Idiomas Dubliners Fontana d’Oro El Piccollino della Farfalla Hispania Center Hotel Moderno Hostal Los Amigos Hostal Oriente Moore’s (Plaza Mayor) Naturbier O’Connell Street O’Neill’s Talking Point Tierra Vanadio

Tetuán

OISE (Academia de Español)

Tribunal

State University of New York Syracuse University The Causeway University of Boston

Cannibal Mercado Fuencarral Moore’s Triskel Tavern

San Bernardo

Tirso de Molina

¡Juan Por Dios! Schiller University Wall Street

Santiago Bernabéu

Crazy Monk EBC Guts Irish Rover

Sevilla

Al Natural

Cat’s Hostel Mad Hostel

Velázquez

English Centre Thamesis Univ. Rey Juan Carlos

Ventura Rodríguez

Las Mil y Una Noches Shamrocks Irish Bar

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