East Lothian And The North Sea Trail

East Lothian and the North Sea Trail

Contents

John Muir Statue Old Town House, Dunbar

Introduction to East Lothian and the John Muir Way About the North Sea Trail How to use this Guide Key to map Route 1 Musselburgh and Fisherrow Circular Route 2 Musselburgh to Prestonpans on the John Muir Way Route 3 Wallyford to Prestonpans - Station to Station Route 4 Seton Collegiate Church Route 5 Longniddry to Haddington Railway Walk and the River Tyne Path Route 6 Aberlady to Gullane on the John Muir Way Route 7 Gullane Circular Route 8 Dirleton and Yellowcraig Circular Route 9 North Berwick and the Law Route 10 North Berwick Circular Route 11 East Linton to Traprain Law Route 12 Dunbar’s Cliff Top Trail to John Muir Country Park Route 13 Thorntonloch to Dunglass on the John Muir Way Route 14 Dunglass to Oldhamstocks Scottish Outdoor Access Code Useful safety tips Getting to East Lothian and public transport Where to stay and eat Useful information

1 1 1 3 5 7 9 11 13 15 17 19 21 23 25 27 29 30 30 31 31 32

Introduction to East Lothian and the John Muir Way he selection of routes in this booklet give a flavour of the countryside and heritage that can be seen along the John Muir Way, East Lothian’s section of the North Sea Trail.

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The John Muir Way extends for over 70km between Fisherrow Harbour in Musselburgh and Dunglass on the boundary with the Scottish Borders and is named after the worldrenowned conservationist and founder of America’s National Parks, born in Dunbar in 1838. Along the Way, you will see iconic features such as the Bass Rock, North Berwick Law and Traprain Law, remnants of major prehistoric volcanic activity. Bass Rock

Inland, East Lothian’s rolling landscape gave rise to its reputation as the ‘bread basket of Scotland,’ inspiring national poet Robert Burns to state that the county was “the most glorious corn country I ever saw.” Golden fields of wheat and barley rise to meet a green and purple patchwork of grassland and heather moor on the Lammermuir Hills to the south. East Lothian also has a colourful history. Traprain Law is thought to have been one of the principal hill forts of the ancient Celtic people called the Votadini. Over the centuries the Romans, Picts, Scots, Northumbrians, and English armies have claimed the county and left evidence of their presence in a rich tapestry of place names.

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About the

North Sea Trail The North Sea Trail is a European Union funded project that promotes opportunities for exploring natural and cultural heritage through path networks around the North Sea. 26 regions from Norway, Sweden, Denmark, Germany, The Netherlands, England and Scotland are involved in providing access to trails, information about local heritage, and promoting business development for local service providers. Further information on the trail can be found on www.northseatrail.org, or for more information on the NAVE Nortrail project visit

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How to Use this Guide Distances and suggested times are listed for each route, as well as indications of local points of interest, local services and public transport. Distances are given in kilometres (km) and miles; for some of the routes the amount of ascent or descent is given in metres (m) or feet. Some of the routes start and finish at the same point, whilst others may be completed by using public transport, by pre-arranging car transport at either end, or by re-tracing your steps back to the start. Many of the routes are signposted, but others are not and directions are given as a guide. Timings are approximate. Some of the routes in this booklet may be suitable for cycling, horse riding and access by people of all abilities; contact East Lothian Council’s Outdoor Access Officers (see page 32) for further information. Follow the guidance of the Scottish Outdoor Access Code www.outdooraccess-scotland.com (see page 31). A brief summary of the Code (Know the Code before you go) is available in 11 different languages online: www.snh.org.uk or available to order free of charge from Scottish Natural Heritage’s publication section, tel. 01738 444177.

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Picturesque ruined castles and towers bear testament to this turbulent past. Hailes, Dirleton and Tantallon are among a number of ancient castles and monuments in the care of Historic Scotland where visitor interpretation is provided.

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You can visit other historic buildings and monuments in the care of Historic Scotland and the National Trust for Scotland, as well as the John Muir Birthplace Museum, the Scottish Seabird Centre with its remote cameras trained on the Bass Rock (the third largest gannetry in the world), the Museum of Flight and the “Concorde Experience”, Glenkinchie Distillery (home of the “Edinburgh Malt”), and 21 quality golf courses.

Nungate Bridge, Haddington

Many visitors come to discover the beauty of East Lothian’s coast and countryside for walking, cycling, horse riding, watersports and other outdoor activities. We hope you will discover the delights of East Lothian. Take your time, enjoy the great views, stay a while, and seek out the many fascinating places that have helped to shape the county and make it the place it is today.

Key to Maps The John Muir Way / North Sea Trail Routes Start

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Finish Finish T D T T

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Public Toilets Disabled Facilities Seasonal Opening Weekends only in winter Information 1

Fisherrow Harbour, Musselburgh

John Muir Way

Start Finish

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7 4 6 5

The Manor House, Inveresk

500 metres north

Route 1 Musselburgh and Fisherrow Circular Start and Finish: Distance: Time: Terrain and path information:

Fisherrow Harbour 8 km/5 miles 2 – 2½ hours Mostly paths and well-surfaced pavements, some steps.

Points of Interest: 1 2 3

4 5

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Crown Copyright. OS Licence 100023381

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Fisherrow Harbour – a late medieval harbour with possible Roman origins. River Esk – habitat and roosting area for birds, such as mute swans, and waders, which feed on the tidal flats. Musselburgh Tolbooth – its prominent clock was a gift to the people of Musselburgh from 'the Dutch states' in 1496. Lewisvale Park – an Edwardian public park dating from 1911. Inveresk Village – a delightful conservation village – location of the National Trust for Scotland’s Inveresk Lodge Garden. Roman Inveresk – a prominent fort between 142 and 163 AD. Roman Bridge - dating from the 16th century, it is reputed to be built over a Roman foundation.

Directions: From Fisherrow Harbour follow the signposts for the John Muir Way along the promenade and around the west side of the river mouth. Cross the first bridge and continue straight ahead along James Street, turning right at Mill Hill, then left at Kerr’s Wynd to join the High Street. Cross at the pedestrian crossing and continue up Newbigging; turn right at Inveresk Road, then almost immediately turn left up Inveresk Brae. Enter Lewisvale Public Park on the left shortly after. After passing the bandstand look out for a black signpost on the right. Ascend the steps here following the sign for the cricket pitches and follow the path around the fields. Exit the park to come out on Double Dykes. Cross over Inveresk Village Road, turn left then right to enter Wedderburn Terrace. A path at the end of the street leads to the River Esk. Once at the riverside turn right heading back into Musselburgh. Leave the path at Eskmills Park, and cross Mall Avenue to follow the river downstream. Cross the Esk by the Roman Bridge and continue along Market Street until North High Street is reached; use the crossing to reach the starting point at Fisherrow Harbour. Public Transport: There are regular bus and rail services to Musselburgh. Local Services: Musselburgh is well served with shops, cafes, and restaurants. 3

Prestongrange looking towards Cockenzie Power Station

John Muir Way Oystercatchers

2 5 i 1

3

Start

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T D T D

Levenhall, Musselburgh

500 metres north

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Route 2 Musselburgh to Prestonpans on the John Muir Way Start: Finish: Distance: Time: Terrain and path information:

Fisherrow Harbour Prestonpans 6 km/4 miles (one way) 1½ - 2 hours (one way) Mostly well-surfaced paths and pavements.

Points of Interest: 1 2 3 4

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Fisherrow Harbour – as Route 1. River Esk mouth – as Route 1. Musselburgh Racecourse – a venue for horse racing since 1816. Musselburgh Links – reputed to be the oldest playing golf course in the World. Mary Queen of Scots is alleged to have played golf here in 1567. Levenhall Links – 134 hectares of reclaimed land widely recognised as being one of the best places to watch birds on the Scottish mainland. Prestongrange Industrial Heritage Museum – site of former colliery and where the industrial heritage of Prestonpans is interpreted. A site of industrial heritage since the 13th century. Morrison’s Haven – historic harbour, now disused, but originally established by the monks of Newbattle Abbey in 1526.

Directions: From Fisherrow Harbour follow the signposts for the John Muir Way along the promenade and around the river mouth to cross the pedestrian bridge. Turn left following the river downstream until another sign at the end of the road is reached. Continue across the playing field to reach the track adjacent to the perimeter sea wall. Follow this track for approximately 2km until a sign points inland across a grass meadow; follow this to eventually reach Ravenshaugh Road. Follow the signposted route of the John Muir Way left via Morrison’s Haven and continue along the John Muir Way to reach Prestonpans.

PRESTONPANS Finish

6 Crown Copyright. OS Licence 100023381

Public Transport: Regular coastal bus service. Rail stations at Musselburgh, Wallyford and Prestonpans. Local Services: There are shops, places to eat and public toilets at Musselburgh and Prestonpans.

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View from Fa’side Hill towards Edinburgh

John Muir Way Finish

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5

Wallyford Sculpture Trail

Start

2 Fa’side Castle

1

1 kilometre north

Route 3 Wallyford to Prestonpans – Station to Station Start: Finish: Distance: Time: Terrain and path information:

Wallyford Train Station Prestonpans Train Station 8 km/5 miles (one way) 2½ - 3 hours (one way) Paths and quiet roads mostly. Fa’side Hill involves 360 feet of steep climbing over 2.5km from Wallyford (more gradual approach from Prestonpans).

Points of Interest: 1 2 3 4

5 6

4

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Crown Copyright. OS Licence 100023381

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Fa’side Castle (private house, no access) – a restored 15th century tower. Fa’side Hill – good views of the coast and the former coalfields of East Lothian. Tranent Church – built in 1800 on the foundations of an earlier 15th century church. ‘The Bing’ and Battle of Prestonpans interpretation point – panoramic views of the site of Bonnie Prince Charlie’s victory in 1745. Colonel Gardiner’s Monument – Colonel Gardiner was killed in the Battle of Prestonpans. Bankton House (private house, no access) – beautifully restored 18th century building, formerly Colonel Gardiner’s house.

Directions: From Wallyford Rail Station, head eastwards to Inchview Road and continue uphill beyond the houses to a wide path. After a short distance turn right through a kissing gate. Follow the path, stopping to notice occasional stone blocks carved with images reflecting mining heritage and forming the Wallyford Sculpture Trail. Continue until you reach a pedestrian bridge over the A1. Cross this and continue straight ahead, starting to ascend the steep path to Fa’side Hill. At the top of the hill, just beyond Fa’side Castle, turn left on to a quiet road. Continue on this road, taking care and looking out for traffic, turning right after approximately 1 mile/1.6km to enter Lammermoor Terrace in Tranent. Continue on this road heading into town and as the road curves towards Edinburgh Road head for the steps to ‘The Heugh.’ Continue on the path under the bridge of the busy A199. Continue straight ahead and eventually crossing under the A1. Beyond the tunnel make for the ‘Bing’ and climb the path up to the viewpoint. Descend and turn left onto the signposted path to make for Prestonpans Station. Public Transport: Regular bus and rail service between Wallyford and Prestonpans. Local Services: There are shops, cafes and restaurants in Wallyford, Tranent, and Prestonpans. 7

Seton Collegiate Church

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Start Finish

3 1 2

Seton House

500 metres north

Route 4 Seton Collegiate Church Start and Finish: Distance: Time: Terrain and path information:

Port Seton, just west of Seton Sands holiday camp 3 km/2 miles 1 hour Paths, tracks, pavements and quiet roads.

Points of Interest: 1

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Seton Collegiate Church – a fifteenth century church built by the powerful Seton family. Historic Scotland property. Seton House (private house, no access) – lavish Robert Adam designed house, on the site of Seton Palace former home of the Seton family. Seton Mill – the stream here once drove a series of water mills.

Directions: From the B1348 coast road follow the Sandy Walk inland, bearing west to the Fisher’s Road and then continuing until you meet the B1361. Turn left, heading east, passing the entrance to Seton House, a private residence, and take the path to the Collegiate Church shortly after. Pass the entrance gate and join a faint path through the wood and across a field to meet the Sandy Walk again. Head back to the coast. Public Transport: Regular coastal bus service to Prestonpans. Local Services: Port Seton is well served by shops, cafes and public toilets.

Crown Copyright. OS Licence 100023381

John Muir Way

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2 1 Start

Robin

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Black-headed Gull

500 metres north

Sparrowhawk

Route 5 continued

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Finish

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HADDINGTON

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St Mary’s Church, Haddington

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Crown Copyright. OS Licence 100023381 north

500 metres

Route 5 Longniddry to Haddington Railway Walk and the River Tyne Path Start: Finish: Distance: Time: Terrain and path information:

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Longniddry Rail Station Haddington 11.4 km/7 miles (one way) 3 – 3½ hours (one way) Well surfaced paths and pavements.

Points of Interest: 1

2

Route 5 continued on map below

Crown Copyright. OS Licence 100023381

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6 7 8

Former Railway Line - this branch line was opened in 1846 and carried passengers and farm produce to Edinburgh. The line closed in 1968. Redhouse Castle – 15th century tower house that can be seen from the Railway Walk. Lots of wildlife watching opportunities - hedgerows and woodland along the route offer shelter to a great diversity of wildlife and many rare wild flowers. Hopetoun Monument – this monument, visible from the Railway Walk, was dedicated to John Hope, the 4th Earl of Hopetoun (1765-1823) and built in 1824. River Tyne Path – moorhens, swans, ducks and herons are usually seen on the river and the path is flanked with mature trees. St Mary’s Church – dating from the 14th century. Restored in 1971. Visitor interpretation and café. Nungate Bridge – a 16th century bridge. Haddington Town House – built to a plan by William Adam in 1748.

Directions: From Longniddry Rail Station head east along the B1377 and cross the road to follow the signs for the Railway Walk. Continue on the Railway Walk for 7km/4½ miles to the end at Alderston Road, Haddington. From here turn right to descend to West Road (B6471) and cross straight over making for the path by the red letterbox. Follow this as it leads into Burnside and then Clerkington Road, eventually leading to the Pencaitland Road (A6093). From here turn left and then immediate right across the road and down Long Cram. After approximately 200m, the path leading to the River Tyne path is joined on the right hand side of the street. Continue on the River Tyne path to the town centre. Public Transport: Regular bus and rail services to Longniddry and Haddington. Local Services: Shops, eating places and public toilets in Longniddry and Haddington. Hopetoun Monument, Byres Hill

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Golfer’s Bridge

Saltcoats Castle

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Finish

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Start

Storage Buildings, Aberlady

4 5

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1 John Muir Way

1 kilometre north

Route 6 Aberlady to Gullane on the John Muir Way Start: Finish: Distance: Time: Terrain and path information:

Aberlady Gullane 5 km/3 miles (one way) 1½ - 2 hours (one way) Well surfaced paths and pavements.

Points of Interest: 1

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Scottish Ornithologists' Club, Waterston House – the Headquarters of the SOC, which holds the largest library of bird literature in Scotland. Aberlady Church – the tower dates from the 15th century and is reputed to be on the site of a much earlier Celtic church. ‘Loupin on Stane’ and Mercat Cross – dating from the 18th century. Aberlady Bay – the Royal Burgh of Haddington’s port, which was established here in 1149. The Bay is also a haven for thousands of waders and wildfowl. Luffness House – late 16th century tower house and doocot possibly on the site of 14th century fortification. Formerly site of Carmelite Friary first mentioned in 1335-6, but may have been founded in the previous century. Saltcoats Castle (no access) – a late 16th century fortified tower with doocot.

Directions: From the church on Main Street head east along the pavement out of Aberlady and follow the John Muir Way. After approximately 1¼ miles/2km the John Muir Way crosses the main road. Cross the road carefully here. Continue on the John Muir Way until you meet the track from Saltcoats Farm. Continue on this into Gullane for food and refreshments or for the bus back to the start. Public Transport: Regular bus service to Aberlady and Gullane.

Crown Copyright. OS Licence 100023381

Local Services: There are shops, cafes, restaurants and public toilets in Aberlady and Gullane.

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Gullane Bay

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1 Start Finish

Tank traps

500 metres north

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Route 7 Gullane Circular Start & Finish: Distance: Time: Terrain and path information:

Gullane Bents Car Park 7.5 km/5 miles (2 km/1¼ miles for shorter option) 2-2½ hours (40 minutes for shorter option) Grassy paths and tracks, sandy beach.

Points of Interest: 1

2 3 4 5

Gullane Bents – much of the dune area has been replanted with sea buckthorn to combat the constant threat of erosion. Large flocks of fieldfares can be seen feeding on this in winter. Wild flowers such as viper's bugloss can be seen in the nutrient poor soils. Tank traps – defensive relics of WWII. Good views out over Gullane Point and the Firth of Forth. Muirfield Golf Course – host to the Open Championship. St Patrick’s Chapel – known to have been in existence in the early part of the 16th century.

Crown Copyright. OS Licence 100023381

Directions: Cross the car park to the south–west corner and go through the narrow ‘vennel’ path leading to Hill Road. Turn right, continue uphill to the top of the road and go through the metal gate where there is a waymarked trail across Gullane Hill and the golf course. Continue on this as the path descends to a junction with another path signed for “Gullane Point” (W) and “Gullane Bents” (E). Take the path to “Gullane Point” out to the headland above Hummell Rocks. After taking in the fine views of Gullane Point retrace your steps back to the signposts, this time following the route for “Gullane Bents” back to the car park. You can finish here. However, for the longer route continue on the mown-grass path out of the car park to Marine Terrace. Take the waymarked trail immediately on your left, and after approximately 1km bear to the right at a junction of paths. The path eventually goes through a wood before emerging onto a wide track. Turn left and continue around a small promontory. Continue on this track past the ruins of a building near the beach and the Black Rocks. Follow the path by the beach until you reach the path leading back to the car park. Public Transport: Regular bus service to Gullane on the Edinburgh – North Berwick coastal route. Local Services: There are shops, cafes, restaurants and public toilets in Gullane.

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2 3 Yellowcraig

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Start Finish

Forget-me-not

4 5 6 T Dirleton Castle

500 metres north

Route 8 Dirleton and Yellowcraig Circular Start & Finish: Yellowcraig Car Park Distance: 6 km/4 miles (1 km/ 5/8 mile for shorter option) Time: 1½ - 2 hours (allow longer for visiting the Castle) (20 minutes for shorter option) Terrain and path information: Grassy paths and tracks, road. Points of Interest: 1

2

3

4 5

Crown Copyright. OS Licence 100023381

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Yellow Craig – this is part of an ancient volcano that erupted in Carboniferous times, over 340 million years ago. There are fine views of the coast, east and west, from the summit. Fidra Island and lighthouse – the Cistercian Nuns of North Berwick had a hermitage on the island from 1154. This was also the site of Castle Tarbet, which preceded Dirleton Castle. The lighthouse dates from 1885 and was the first to be automated in Scotland in 1970. Bird watching – in summer look out for eiders, great crested and red-necked grebes. On the sea look for puffins from Fidra or Craigleith and passing manx shearwaters from further afield. Dirleton Gallery – exhibition space and coffee shop Dirleton Auld Kirk - The sixteenth century Kirk houses the beautiful 'Archerfield window', a stained glass depiction of wildlife found in the local area. Dirleton Castle – built in 1220, and substantially re-built in the 15th century.

Directions: From the Yellowcraig car park follow the path into the wood, next to the bicycle racks, and continue eastwards until you almost reach the boundary wall of the plantation by some wind-twisted pines. From here there is an option to climb to the top of Yellow Craig: ascend the steps, with care, to take in the panoramic views of the coast. Follow the path in front of the toilet block and continue to reach the main path to the beach. Enjoy the beautiful views of Fidra and the coastline from the beach. You can return to the car park via the path that leaves the beach to the left. You can finish here. To continue on the longer route turn right along the south side of wood just before the interpretation panel by the fence. Follow the track by the side of the wood and after approximately 500m leave this to follow a field track to Dirleton village. Take time to enjoy the charming setting of the village, church and castle. Turn left and follow the signs for Yellowcraig, taking care on the road back to the car park. Public Transport: Regular bus service to Dirleton on the Edinburgh – North Berwick coastal route. Local Services: Dirleton has a variety of eating places and services. 17

North Berwick Law

3 1 2 Start John Muir Way

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Path to North Berwick Law

5 Finish 500 metres north

Route 9 North Berwick and the Law Start: Finish: Distance: Time: Terrain and path information:

Scottish Seabird Centre North Berwick Law 3 km/2 miles (one way) 1½ - 2 hours (one way) Mostly paths and well-surfaced pavements. Steep climb (178 metres/583 feet) to the top of the Law.

Points of Interest: 1

2

3 4

Crown Copyright. OS Licence 100023381

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Scottish Seabird Centre – lots of opportunities for learning about the amazing wildlife of the Firth of Forth and its islands. St Andrew's Old Kirk – ancient church with remains dating from the 12th – 17th centuries surrounded by medieval graveyard. Recent excavations have identified even earlier remains. Boat trips – many operators sail from North Berwick Harbour. Lodge Gardens and Grounds – victorian designed Public Park. North Berwick Law is the remnant of ancient volcanic activity and is a typical ‘Crag and Tail’ land formation as a result of glacial erosion during the Ice Age. There is also an earlier Iron Age hill fort, a Napoleonic lookout shelter on the Law, used during World War I. There are great views from the summit of the Bass Rock, Craigleith, and the Forth islands; as well as Tantallon Castle to the east.

Directions: Head south on Victoria Road and Quality Street. Continue through the Lodge Gardens and Grounds, keeping straight ahead to emerge on to St Baldred’s Road. Cross the road and follow the signs for the John Muir Way, straight ahead and along the path over the tree-covered knoll and continue to Lochbridge Road. Turn right and at the end of the road turn left and follow the path to the car park. From the car park follow the main path to the summit of the Law. This is a very steep ascent, but well worth the effort for the views from the top. Please note that there are hidden drops along the route and that grass slopes can be very slippery – please take care. Retrace your steps to make your way back to North Berwick and local services. Public Transport: Regular bus and rail service to North Berwick. Local Services: There are shops, places to eat and drink, and public toilets in North Berwick.

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North Berwick

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Gannets

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Craigleith

250 metres John Muir Way

north

Route 10 North Berwick Circular Start and Finish: Distance: Time: Terrain and path information:

Scottish Seabird Centre 4 km/2.5 miles (one way) 1 - 1½ hours (one way) Mostly paths and well-surfaced pavements, some steep steps at Rhodes Braes and The Glen.

Points of Interest: 1 2 3 4

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Scottish Seabird Centre – Scottish Seabird Centre – as Route 9. St Andrew's Old Kirk – as Route 9. Boat trips – as Route 9. Milsey Bay – there is evidence here of lava-flow with enormous deposits of volcanic ash, forming flat red tuffs that are visible at low tide. The Glen – the ruins of the Mills of Kintreath can be seen here. These are recorded in a charter of 1434 and belonged to North Berwick Priory. Castle Hill – thought to be the site of the original De Vaux castle prior to this Norman family building Dirleton Castle in 1220. There are great panoramic views of Milsey Bay, the Bass Rock, Craigleith, and the Forth islands. Lodge Gardens and Grounds – Victorian designed Public Park.

Crown Copyright. OS Licence 100023381

Directions: Head east along the pavement adjacent to Melbourne Road, Marine Parade, and Tantallon Terrace, passing the rocky shore by Milsey Bay. Just past the Scottish Water building, climb the steep steps on your right and follow the path out to Lime Grove housing estate, eventually reaching the A198. Turn right, continue for approximately 400 metres, and then turn right onto the path down the Glen. Follow the path through the Glen. Near the end ascend the steps on your left just beyond the ruins of former mill buildings. Continue along the path taking a short diversion to Castle Hill, which offers a fine viewpoint. Shortly after, cross East Road (B1346) with care to enter the Lodge Gardens. Exit the Gardens on to Quality Street, and head back to the Seabird Centre. Public Transport: Regular bus and rail service to North Berwick. Local Services: There are shops, places to eat and drink, and public toilets in North Berwick.

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Bridge over River Tyne at Lynn Rocks, East Linton

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Traprain Law

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East Linton

1 kilometre north

Route 11 East Linton to Traprain Law Start: Finish: Distance: Time: Terrain and path information:

East Linton Traprain Law 6 km/4 miles (one way) 2 – 2½ hours (one way) Mostly surfaced paths, and grassy tracks. Steep climb to Traprain Law (600 feet/180 metres). Undulating terrain elsewhere on walk.

Points of Interest: 1 2 3 4 5

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East Linton – picturesque village dating from at least the 12th century. Tyne Bridge – ancient 16th century bridge, part of the Great Post Road. River Tyne - ducks, herons and dippers may be seen Hailes Castle – ruin of castle, parts of which date from the 13th century. Traprain Law – location of prehistoric and medieval settlement. Also associated with St Monenna and St Kentigern (St Mungo) in the 6th century. Great views of the Tyne estuary, Bass Rock, Craigleith, and the Forth islands.

Directions: From East Linton's village square turn right along Station Road towards Haddington. About 50 metres after passing under the railway bridge look for a sign directing you left down a narrow road. At the bottom of this road the path turns right along the river. Continue along the path until you reach the footbridge signed for Hailes Castle. Continue to the minor road from where a diversion west may be made to Hailes Castle. Retrace your steps and follow the signposted path to the Haddington Road. Turn left along the road (take care as the road is a busy road) to bring yourself to the foot of the Law; follow the direction signs to summit.

Crown Copyright. OS Licence 100023381

Public Transport: Regular bus services to East Linton from Haddington (W) and Dunbar (E). Local Services: There are lots of shops and places to eat in East Linton and information.

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Belhaven Bay

6

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T D John Muir Way

500 metres north

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Route 12 Dunbar’s Cliff Top Trail to John Muir Country Park Start: Finish: Distance: Time: Terrain and path information:

Dunbar Harbour John Muir Country Park 8 km/5 miles (one way) 2 – 2½ hours (one way) Mostly well-surfaced paths, grassy tracks, and concrete promenade with several flights of steps. Stay clear of cliff edge.

Points of Interest: 1

2

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John Muir Statue Old Town House, Dunbar

Crown Copyright. OS Licence 100023381

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John Muir Birthplace Museum – learn about John Muir's adventures and travels all over the globe, and find out how you can follow in his footsteps. Cromwell and Victoria Harbours, and ‘The Battery’ – take time out to explore the two harbours and ‘The Battery’ – a defensive structure built in 1781 to defend the town from privateers. Dunbar Castle – successfully defended in 1338 by 'Black Agnes, Countess of Dunbar'. At Castle Park there is an Iron Age promontory fort, and an Anglian stronghold has also been discovered. The castle is now home to a large colony of kittiwakes. Baird Promenade – paid for and gifted to Dunbar by the local Baird family in 1893. This is now part of the Cliff Top Trail. Belhaven Bay – this was the site of Dunbar’s harbour prior to the 16th century Great views of Belhaven Bay, the Tyne Estuary and Firth of Forth. Great opportunities to view bird life – such as grebes, cormorants and eider.

Directions: Starting at Dunbar Harbour the path climbs steeply up towards the Leisure Centre. After passing in front of the Leisure Centre follow the signs for the “John Muir Way”. Be aware that there are lots of steps on this section. Continue following the John Muir Way along the coast, taking care around the cliff edge and around the edge of Winterfield Golf Course to emerge at Shore Road car park by Belhaven Bay. Continue along the John Muir Way to John Muir Country Park. Just beyond the public toilets at Linkfield car park leave the John Muir Way and continue around the headland of Hedderwick Hill. Rejoin the John Muir Way by the bridge over the Hedderwick Burn and turn left to head back to the car park. Retrace your steps to make your way back to Dunbar and local services. Public Transport: Regular bus and rail services to Dunbar from Edinburgh. Local Services: Shops and places to eat in Dunbar. Public toilets at Linkfield Car Park, Shore Road, Belhaven and Dunbar. 25

Bilsdean Path

Start

1 John Muir Way

3 2

Finish

5 6 Bilsdean Waterfall

500 metres north

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14

Route 13 Thorntonloch to Dunglass on the John Muir Way Start: Finish: Distance: Time: Terrain and path information:

Thorntonloch Dunglass A1 layby 4.4 km/3 miles (one way) 1 ½ - 2 hours (one way) Mostly paths, some steep ascents, shingle and sand beaches.

Points of Interest: 1

2

3 4

Crown Copyright. OS Licence 100023381

5 6

Great views out to the North Sea, and the Berwickshire cliffs. Birdwatching – look out for eider and long tailed duck offshore. Fulmars may fly overhead while at the water edge you’ll be able to spot oystercatcher, turnstone and redshank. Bilsdean and Dunglass burns – look out for the dramatic steep-sided ravines and the waterfall. A thriving fishing community was also based at Bilsdean. Castledykes Fort – Iron Age fort. Post Road – Dunglass Bridge is a remnant of Great Post Road from the early 17th century. Bridges further up the dean date from the 18th – 20th century. Dunglass Collegiate Church – 15th century church Dunglass – a large sycamore tree, close to the remains of the church, marks the centre of the ancient village.

Directions: From the car park at Thorntonloch, follow the signs for the John Muir Way to the coast. Turn right (south-eastwards) along the sandy beach. Look out for the sign for the John Muir Way taking you up the coastal slope. Continue to follow the John Muir Way signs, past Bilsdean Waterfall. After this there is a short section along a shingle beach. Take care that you are not cut off by the high tide along the beach section. From the beach, look out for the John Muir Way sign directing you inland, up through Dunglass Dean. From here you can either retrace your steps back to Thorntonloch or continue on to Cockburnspath for public transport. Cockburnspath can be reached by foot from the A1 layby along the signed path from the John Muir Way. Check for public transport (see page 31) for return at the end of the route, or retrace your steps to make your way back to Thorntonloch. Public Transport: Bus service to Cockburnspath linking Edinburgh, Haddington, Dunbar, and Berwick Upon Tweed. Local Services: Cockburnspath in the Scottish Borders can be reached by following the signed path from the John Muir Way.

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Village Pump, Oldhamstocks

John Muir Way

T Start

1 2 Dunglass Collegiate Church

Finish

3

Oldhamstocks

500 metres north

Route 14 Dunglass to Oldhamstocks Start: Finish: Distance: Time: Terrain and path information:

Dunglass A1 layby Oldhamstocks 3.8 km/2.4 miles (one way) 1 – 1½ hours (one way) Mostly paths, and tracks.

Points of Interest: 1 2 3

Dunglass Collegiate Church – as Route 13. Dunglass – as Route 13. Oldhamstocks – lovely village and architecture on the edge of the Lammermuir Hills.

Directions: Follow the signs for the John Muir Way from the layby, turning right in a short distance to go under the railway bridge. Continue to the public road and cross over, following signs for Dunglass Collegiate Church. Continue following the estate road round the right hand side of the ruins of the church, passing a pond on your left after approximately 200m. Continue to the next junction where a sign for a public path points left towards Springfield Farm. Continue beyond Springfield Farm to emerge on the public road to the north of Oldhamstocks. Unless transport is pre-arranged retrace your steps to start. Public Transport: Bus service to Cockburnspath linking Edinburgh, Haddington, Dunbar, and Berwick Upon Tweed.

Crown Copyright. OS Licence 100023381

Local Services: Cockburnspath in the Scottish Borders can be reached by following the signed path from the John Muir Way.

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Scottish Outdoor Access Code Know the Code before you go . . . Enjoy Scotland’s outdoors! Everyone has the right to be on most land and inland water for recreation, education and for going from place to place providing they act responsibly. These access rights and responsibilities are explained in the Scottish Outdoor Access Code. The key things are: When you’re in the outdoors: • take personal responsibility for your own actions and act safely; • respect people’s privacy and peace of mind; • help land managers and others to work safely and effectively; • care for your environment and take your litter home; • keep your dog under proper control; • take extra care if you’re organising an event or running a business. If you’re managing the outdoors: • respect access rights; • act reasonably when asking people to avoid land management operations; • work with your local authority and other bodies to help integrate access and land management; • respect rights of way and customary access.

Find out more by visiting www.outdooraccess-scotland.com or phoning your local Scottish Natural Heritage office. 30

Winterfield rock pools, Dunbar

Useful Safety Tips Walking should present no serious problems even to a beginner, provided you follow a few simple rules. • Don’t take unnecessary risks by tackling overly long or difficult routes. • Know where you are or have a map and the ability to read it. • On longer walks, be aware of "escape routes" in case you need to cut your walk short for whatever reason. • Make sure you have plenty to eat and drink and are adequately dressed for the length of time you’ll be out. Wear sturdy footwear. • Check the forecast before you set out, always take a waterproof and keep an eye on the sky. • Make sure someone knows where you are and when to expect you back

Road Safety Follow the advice in the Highway Code: use the pavement if there is one and safe crossings wherever possible, help drivers to see you, and where there is no pavement keep to the right, facing oncoming traffic, crossing to the other side before sharp right-hand bends. Take special care on country roads with no pavements where traffic may be moving very fast.

Getting to East Lothian and public transport Rail FirstScotRail services run from Edinburgh to Musselburgh, Wallyford, Prestonpans, Longniddry, Drem and North Berwick. www.firstgroup.com/scotrail GNER [www.gner.co.uk] and Virgin [www.virgintrains.co.uk] serve Dunbar Rail Station National Rail Enquiries: Telephone 08457 48 49 50 or visit www.nationalrail.co.uk

Bus A variety of bus services link Edinburgh along the coast to Musselburgh, Prestonpans, and North Berwick, or inland to Tranent, Haddington, and Dunbar. Bus services also go from North Berwick to Dunbar via East Linton and to Haddington via the Museum of Flight. A bus service also operates between Edinburgh and Berwick Upon Tweed, linking Haddington, Dunbar, Dunglass and Cockburnspath. Eve Coaches www.eveinfo.co.uk First Bus www.firstgroup.com Lothian Transport www.lothianbuses.co.uk Perryman’s Buses www.perrymansbuses.co.uk Traveline Scotland provides a telephone service for public transport enquiries available by calling 0870 608 2 608. Lines are open daily from 7am to 10pm, 7 days a week. Or visit www.travelinescotland.com

By Air Edinburgh Airport is 8 miles (12 km) west of the city. Glasgow, Glasgow Prestwick and Newcastle airports are also all within easy reach of East Lothian. For information on Main UK airports visit - www.baa.com

Where to Stay and Eat There is a wealth of hotels, guesthouses, caravan or campsites to cater for your particular needs when visiting East Lothian. For practical advice, ideas and information about exploring Scotland click on www.visitscotland.com where you can also choose and book accommodation; alternatively, you may wish to email [email protected] or phone +44 00 1506 832121. Look out for the “Walkers Welcome” logo denoting accommodation committed to providing services for the walker. This may include drying facilities, facilities for cleaning boots and outdoor clothing, packed lunches and providing information. East Lothian is also home to many food and drink businesses offering a wide variety of local and seasonal produce.

Visit www.foodanddrinkeastlothian.com/home.asp for further information on locally produced East Lothian food and drink. 31

Useful Information

East Lothian Council www.eastlothian.gov.uk

Heritage

Council For Scottish Archaeology 0131 247 4119 www.scottisharchaeology.org.uk Edinburgh & Lothians Greenspace Trust 0131 654 1933 www.egbt.org.uk Historic Scotland 0131 668 8600 www.historic-scotland.gov.uk John Muir Trust 0131 554 0114 www.jmt.org National Trust for Scotland 0131 243 9300 www.nts.org.uk Scottish Natural Heritage Outdoors 01463 725000, 0131 654 2466 www.snh.org.uk Scottish Outdoor Access Code 0131 654 2466 www.outdooraccess-scotland.com Scottish Ornithologists' Club (SOC) 01875 871330 www.the-soc.zenwebhosting.com John Muir Award Woodland Trust Scotland 01620 829904 www.johnmuiraward.org 01764 662554 www.woodland-trust.org.uk Keep Scotland Beautiful Tourism 01786 471333 www.keepscotlandbeautiful.org East Lothian Attractions North Sea Cycle Route www.visiteastlothian.org www.northsea-cycle.com East Lothian Food & Drink North Sea Trail www.foodanddrinkeastlothian.com www.northseatrail.org Golf East Lothian Ramblers' Association Scotland www.golfeastlothian.com 01577 861222 www.ramblers.org.uk/scotland VisitScotland ScotWays, the Scottish Rights of Way 0845 2255121 www.visitscotland.org and Access Society 0131 558 1222 www.scotways.com Weather Sustrans Scotland The Meteorological Office 0131 539 8122 www.sustrans.co.uk www.meto.gov.uk Outdoor Access Officers 01620 827671 (East) 01620 827419 (West) Heritage Officer 01620 82 7158 John Muir Birthplace Museum 01368 861951 www.jmbt.org.uk Local History & Promotions Officer 01620 828209

Photography by: Nick Aitken, George Mole, Nick Morgan, Duncan Priddle, Colin D Read, Scottish Cultural Resources Access Network (SCRAN), Scottish Seabird Centre, VisitScotland and East Lothian Council

The maps in this brochure are reproduced from Ordnance Survey material with the permission of Ordnance Survey on behalf of the Controller of Her Majesty's Stationery Office. © Crown copyright. Unauthorised reproduction infringes Crown copyright and may lead to prosecution or civil proceedings. OS Licence 100023381

32

Tank traps, Gullane

Kittiwakes, Dunbar Castle

Rock pool, Yellowcraig

36

Longniddry Beach

www.eastlothian.gov.uk/northseatrail www.northseatrail.org The North Sea Trail/NAVE Nortrail project is partly funded by the EU through the Interreg IIIB North Sea Programme

★★★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★★★

Front Cover Photos: Top row: Bass Rock; Foxglove; Seton Collegiate Church; Bilsdean coast Second Row: Fisherrow Harbour; St Mary’s Church, Haddington; Wallyford Sculpture Trail; Common Blue butterfly Front cover main photo: John Muir Country Park, Dunbar Bilsdean path