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land 'of plenty authentic sichuan recipes

FUCHSIA DUNLOP

personally gathered in

the Chinese province of sichuan

.1

4

,

'W^ -m

A

ISBN 0-393-05177-3

.

THE FOOD OFTHE SK southwest China secrets.

one of

is

Many of

know

us

reputation or a few of

its

for

it

.cs

"hot and spicy"

for

its

most

dishes,

notably Kung Pao Chicken, but that

is

only the

legendary

is

IN

great culinary

most famous

beginning. Sichuanese cuisine

$44.00

REGION

,

d's

.

$30.00

in

China

sophistication and astounding diversity: local

gourmets claim the region boasts 5,000 dishes.

And

different

not just about the kick of fiery

it's

red chiles and numbing Sichuan pepper: local chefs

use

unparalleled

techniques to create

flavoring

at least 23 distinct flavor combinations,

from sour-

sweet, melting "lychee flavor" to punchy, seductive "fish-fragrant flavor."

Fuchsia

on her

Dunlop

first visit

following year she capital,

fell in

love with Sichuanese food

to the province ten years ago.

went to

live

in

The

the Sichuanese

Chengdu, where she became the

first for-

W O O

0)

eigner to study full-time at the province's famous

cooking school. She spent her spare time studying in

the kitchens of

some

of the region's

restaurants, exploring street

most famous

markets and food

O 3 .= -0

stalls,

and cooking and eating with her Sichuanese friends in

their

homes. Her passionate enthusiasm

food and her fluency

in

for the

the Chinese language gave

her unprecedented access to China's most vibrant

ro ^• -^ cr

culinary region.

Now,

for the first time

in

the English language,

she has given us a cookbook gathered on the spot

from the kitchens of Sichuan. Useful for the enthusiastic

beginner as well as the experienced cook. Land

of Plenty teaches

not only

how

to prepare the

how Cook up a

Sichuan recipes but also the art of chopping and

to appreciate the textures of dishes.

genuine Pock-Marked Mother Chen's Bean Curd or a

Twice-Cooked Pork, make the

fiery

Dan Dan Noodles

that are traditionally sold by Sichuanese street ven-

dors. Try out delicious and easy-to-make recipes for

appetizers

like

Sweet-and

Beef Slivers with Sesat (continued

ur Red Peppers and or take on the chal-

o,

o>

0)

land of plenty

FUCHSIA DUNLOP

and of plenty a treasury of authentic sichuan cooking

W. W.

NORTON & COMPANY

New York

London

1

First published in

Great

Britain in

2001 by Michael Joseph Ltd, the Penguin Group,

under the Copyright

Sichuan Cookery

title

© 200

by Fuchsia Dunlop

1

Inset photographs copyright

Chinese calligraphy copyright First

American edition 2003 All rights

Printed

in

© 2001 byTara Fisher © 2001 by Qu Lei Lei

reserved

the United States of America

For information about permission to reproduce selections from write to Permissions, W.

500

Fifth

Avenue,

W. Norton & Company,

New York, NY

design by Carole

Production manager:

book,

101 10

Manufacturing by The Haddon Craftsmen,

Book

this

Inc.

Inc.

Goodman

Andrew

Marasia

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Dunlop, Fuchsia.

Land of plenty a treasury of authentic Sichuan cooking :

Dunlop.

—

I

St

p.

American

/

Fuchsia

ed.

cm.

Includes bibliographical references and index.

ISBN 0-393-05 I

.

1

77-3 (hardcover)

Cookery, Chinese.

I.

Title.

TX724.5.C5D86 2003 641.5951— dc2 2003002213

W.

W Norton & Company,

Inc.,

500

Fifth

Avenue,

New York, N.Y

1

1

1

wv^w. wwnorton.com

W. W. Norton & Company

Ltd.,

I

Castle House, 75/76 Wells Street,

234567890

London WIT

3QT

For

my

mother, Carolyn

Digitized by the Internet Archive in

2011

http://www.archive.org/details/landofplentytreaOOdunl

my chopsticks without remembering my dear Sichuan. I

never raise

— Lu You

'i»^

contents

a note

on transliteration

preface

i

i

Introduction

14

36

basic cutting skills

cooking methods

equipment

40

45

the Sichuanese pantry

map

1

10

53

82

of Sichuan

NOODLES, DUMPLINGS, AND

OTHER STREET TREATS 2

APPETIZERS

3

MEAT DISHES

4

POULTRY

136

236

192

84

258

5

FISH

6

VEGETABLES AND BEAN CURD

7

STOCKS AND SOUPS

8

SWEET DISHES

9

HOTPOT

3

282

18

338

344

35

the 23 flavors of Sichuan

3

the 56 cooking methods of Sichuan

3

58

glossary of Chinese characters with definitions

sources and resources bibliography

3

82

acknowledgments index

386

3

84

3

75

364

a

note on transliteration

The standard

pinyin transliteration system for

used throughout

nounced almost

this

Chinese characters has been

book. Many of the vowels and consonants are pro-

as they are in English, with the following

q

pronounced

'ch"

X

pronounced

'sh"

z

pronounced

c

pronounced

'ts"

zh

pronounced

T'

ai

pronounced

'i"

ei

pronounced

'ay" as in

ao

pronounced

'ow" as

ia

pronounced

'ee-ar"

iu

pronounced

'ee-o"

ian

pronounced

'ee-en"

ua

pronounced

uo

pronounced

'oo-or"

uai

pronounced

'oo-i" ("i" as in "kite")

ui

pronounced

'

'

'

'dz"

as in "kite"

"hay"

in

"cow"

'oo-ar"

'oo-ay" ("ay" as

in

"hay")

main exceptions:

preface

In

1994

moved

I

to the Sichuanese capital, Chengdu, to take up a British

Council Scholarship at Sichuan University. province, and

have to admit that

I

my

On two

enced by Sichuan's gastronomic reputation. region

Chengdu

and

I

knew

wanted to

I

make

inquiries

in

in

I

When

I'd

been

in

decided with a

we

had arrived.

in

in

were being pulverized with

and the students scurried around mixing vors of the rich dark liquids

Fast, regular

a plain white

in

cutting boards, Sichuan peppercorns

ground to

oils

their crucibles.

rhythmic pounding, the sound of china spoons

chopping,

room, dozens of

learning the art of

on brown powder,

pairs of cleavers

a fine

and spices, fine-tuning the

The

hummed

air

china bowls.

in

tables sat bowls of ingredients; pools of soy sauce and

Notebooks

German

sunny October afternoon

white overalls were engrossed

sauces. Chiles and fresh ginger

wooden

it.

colors of the

search of the famous provincial cooking school.

could hear from the street that

apprentice cooks

One

classes.

the sound of cleavers on wood. Upstairs,

salt.

warm

out more about

open markets,

about cooking

cycled across the city

We

find

influ-

for a couple of months, sampling the street snacks and the folk cui-

sine, drinking in the colors of the

friend to

to the

visit

first

previous trips to the

had been bowled over by the rich flavors and

I

local food,

we

my

wasn't

It

choice of university was heavily

oil,

fla-

with a gentle

On

long parallel

piles of sugar

and

scribbled with Chinese characters lay around on the tables

amid the blood-red

and scattered peppercorns. The

chiles

through open windows. We decided immediately that

this

light

streamed

in

was where we had

to study.

My

friend Volker and

I

took private

classes at the Sichuan Institute of

Higher Cuisine over the next two months.

Our

teacher was the

Guojian, and the school's English tutor. Professor Feng Quanxin,

brilliant

was

at

Can hand

to help us decipher the Sichuan dialect and explain the unfamiliar culinary terms.

With

this foundation,

Sichuan dishes,

I

was

and a knowledge of a small repertoire of

classic

able to talk to chefs and restaurateurs, and to spend fas-

cinating days of study in several local restaurants.

land of plenty

Some months

when

later,

had finished

I

home

and was thinking about returning

to enroll as a regular student ticular privilege, as

in

dropped

in at

my modest

and Chinese

For the next three months

the cook-

principal of the school invited

no foreigner had ever done

chef's overalls

I

at Sichuan University

a professional training course. This

the opportunity, enrolled and paid

my own

to England,

To my surprise, the

ing school to say hello.

my course

was

this before. Naturally

I

and was promptly issued

fees,

cleaver.

studied cooking every day with forty-five

I

classroom studying cooking theory

—the

selection of

mixing of flavors, the control of the temperature of the

methods

a par-

leapt at

young Sichuanese men and two young women. Mornings were spent

different cooking

me

—and then we would

all

in

the

raw ingredients, the fire

and

move over

oil,

and the

to the demon-

room. There, we would gather around to watch our teachers. Long

stration

Qingrong and Lu Maoguo, prepare examples of home cooking and banquet

The

delicacies with ease and artistry. inevitably,

ten

we

the sampling.

In

highlight of the

the afternoons

prepared our raw ingredients,

it

morning was always,

was our turn to

killing

and cleaning

teams of

try. In

washing and

fish,

chopping vegetables, collecting dried spices and pickled chiles from the nearby

storeroom. Then each of us would have a turn at the wok, our classmates gathering around to tease and criticize. The finished dishes were

to the teacher,

Once

a

who would

week we

Daiquan. Mr.

Li

assess

them

all

for color, taste, and texture.

studied pastry-making with the famous pastry chef

acquired

his

him

we

dumplings" {bo

stuffings all

si

make

learned to

Li

an apprentice to one of the great

as

skills

Sichuanese chefs of the twentieth century, Kong Daosheng, and silk fried

presented

you gao) are celebrated

all

his "rippled-

over the province. From

different kinds of dumpling wrappers; to prepare

sweet and savory; to

fold, pinch,

and tuck; and to steam,

fry,

and

boil

kinds of mouthwatering snacks.

On my

days off

I

would cycle around Chengdu, learning about street food

and researching raw ingredients. study

in

specialist

I

was

also lucky

enough to be allowed to

the kitchens of several restaurants, including the traditional snack

Long Chao Shou and the magical Shufeng restaurant. Exploring

Chengdu was a never-ending pleasure. recall sitting with an old roast duck in a narrow back street that meandered among the wooden courtyard I

vendor houses life

in

the center of town, discussing the food of the past and watching the

of the teeming city flow

by. Fruit

vendors passed, bearing bamboo baskets

laden with cherries or "dragon-eye" fruit dangling from either end of their

PREFACE

A

bamboo shoulder

poles.

sharpener, bearing

two

cleaver blades and a pair of round-handled Chinese

alleys,

home-cured bacon and sausages hung from the eaves

sharp metal clink heralded the arrival of the knife

scissors.

the quieter

In in

midwinter;

summer

in

they were decked with pieces of radish, citrus peel,

and cabbage hung out to dry. Someone would be tinkering with a bicycle, a

group of old people playing mahjong on a makeshift Dried foods would

hung on chairs,

lines

in

months visit

table, clattering the tiles.

somewhere

preparation for an evening meal;

a charcoal burner. Brightly colored clothes

crisscrossing the lanes. Elderly people sat back

watching their grandchildren

Since those

Each

soaking

would be bubbling away on

a pot

for

lie

first days,

I

bamboo

play.

have returned to Chengdu every year, sometimes

at a time, to continue

has opened up

in

new

my

research and to collect

paths of culinary exploration, and

more I

recipes.

never cease

to be amazed by the diversity and dynamism of Sichuanese cuisine. Since

began

I

tives with

my

research,

I

have entertained countless friends and rela-

Sichuanese meals, and the reception has often been ecstatic. These

most people have They may have eaten Chinese dumplings before, but they've never had Sichuan's famous Zhong dumplings, with their delicious sweet, salty, spicy, gardishes are simply so different from any Chinese food

tasted.

licky sauce.

They've eaten

stir-fried dishes,

but never a cold cucumber

with the merest, tantalizing rumor of spice and sesame.

know what bean curd with

its

fiery red

tastes

like,

And they

but they've never tasted real

ma

stir-fry

think they

po dou

fu,

sauce and scattering of ground beef and dark, leafy greens.

Sichuanese cuisine ranges from street snacks to banquet cooking, dients from seasonal vegetables to rare delicacies.

A

its

few of the recipes

ingrein this

book require unusual materials or complex cooking methods; most do not.AII of them have been tested in my London kitchen, on an ordinary gas stove, with ingredients that are locally available. sity

of recipes that

I

have tried to offer a glimpse of the diver-

and sophistication of Sichuanese cuisine, but the emphasis of this collection

my

lived on,

is

firmly

on the

folk

cooking of the region, on the wonderful dishes

Sichuanese friends make at with great delight, for

home or

more than two

in

their restaurants, and that

years of

my

I

life.

Fuchsia Dunlop

London

13

introduction

Slchuanese cooking legendary the

West

in

one of the great unl<nown

is

China for

its

sophistication and amazing diversity, but

only by a few famous dishes and

nese people say that "China

and

dishes.

Chinese poets have

years.

sigh,

wax

in this

five

known

is

in

is

the place for

thousand different

food for the

glorified Sichuanese

given the strong competition

It

"hot-and-spicy" reputation. Chi-

the place for food, but Sichuan

is

The Sichuanese themselves are

taxi drivers

its

gourmets claim the region boasts

flavor,"

local

cuisines of tiie world.

last

thousand

particularly obsessed with food, even

respect from other parts of China. Surly

as they describe their favorite dumplings; travelers

lyrical

dewy-eyed, when they stop to think of the pickled vegetables they are

leaving behind; office

workers slurping a quick bowl of noodles on their lunch

break recount stories of the legendary chefs of the 1930s. In

the West, strangely, Chinese cuisine

tradition, with a

few regional

is

almost always treated as one great

variations. Viewed

from the outside, perhaps

it is

the unifying themes that leap to mind: the use of chopsticks, the consumption of rice, bread, or noodles with shared dishes of meat and vegetables, the tech-

nique of stir-frying inside,

however,

it is

in

a

wok, the use of soy sauce

as a flavoring. Viewed

the differences that seem to matter, the differences

from

among

the fresh, natural flavors of the south, the sweeter, oilier cooking of the eastern coastal areas, and the spicy western diet;

north and the southern use of of a continent than a country:

mountains and

forests, high

Sichuan It

has

is

its

rice. its

between the wheaten

vast territory

fertile

staples of the

Outsiders often forget that China

plains, salt

is

more

encompasses deserts and lakes

and

rain

rolling grasslands.

as large as France, with a population nearly twice the size of Britain's.

own

dialect, its

own

operatic style, a unique teahouse culture and, of

course, an outstanding culinary tradition.

The

real

Sichuan cuisine

is

quite unlike the Cantonese, eastern, or northern

styles,and quite unlike any other outside China. it

shares with the cooking of nearby

ness, derived

from the

Its

most famous

Hunan and Guizhou

characteristic, which

provinces,

is its

fiery spici-

liberal use of red chiles and numbing Sichuan pepper

INTRODUCTION

In

the Sichuan countryside, red chiles are strung up

from the eaves of the wood-frame farmhouses

(like

crackers that are detonated for the Chinese

New

blood red and lustrous, or pickled bright scarlet

in

enormous bunches

the strings of scarlet

fire-

Year). Dried in the sun,

in salt

and wine, chiles are at

the heart of Sichuanese cooking. Sichuanese people have an extraordinary

way

appetite for chiles, which tend to find their

into at least

Sichuanese have a reputation for being a

women

are even

known

notorious that Chinese people

mei z/).The spicy

will invariably

Chiles are used

many

in

local dishes,

is

Gong Bao (Kung

the base of

fried vegetable dishes;

bean paste

and

chili oil

is

give the "scorched chile

in oil,

Pao) chicken and innumerable

The heat

combine

of chiles

is

fiery.

in

fla-

stir-

the

Milder chiles pickled

sweet, sour, and spicy tastes. Chili and

"homestyle" dishes; and ground chiles

in

a myriad of cold dishes,

in

so

subtle heat, the base of the sensational "fishsalty,

the dominant taste

are used

flavor" concoctions that tastes.

more

mix of

its

is

la).

combined with Sichuan pepper, they are used

brine and spices yield a

fava

local diet

ask outsiders on their way to

"hot-and-numbing" dishes that are so notoriously

fragrant flavor" with

the

but they are used so inventively that

their taste never palls. Dried chiles, sizzled

vor" that

of the

this,

spicy themselves, and local

little bit

as "spice girls" {la

Sichuan whether or not they are "afraid of chile heat" {pa

in

some

served at every breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Because of

dishes

salty,

most famously the "strange-

sweet, numbing, hot, sour, and nutty

never meant to overwhelm the flavors of the

other ingredients, however, but to heighten sensation and to open up the palate to a rich variety of tastes.

Despite the emphasis on chiles

and spicy food certainly

isn't all

salient characteristic of Sichuanese

several different flavors

hot and

spicy,

many

in

in

Sichuan's gastronomic reputation, hot

the region has to

cooking

a single dish.

is

Some

its

offer. In

fact,

the most

audacious combinations of

of these

compound

flavors are

others, such as sour, sweet, melting "lychee flavor,"

boozy

"fragrant wine flavor," and fresh, light "ginger juice flavor," are not. So those

who do

pa

la,

fear chiles, as they say, will

still

find plenty to entice

them within

the pages of this book.

The other famous Sichuan spice is Sichuan pepper {hua jiao), known variously as flower pepper, brown peppercorns, prickly ash, or (erroneously) fagara. It is one of the most ancient Chinese spices, and a Sichuan specialty. It has an extraordinary, heady aroma that carries hints of wood, citrus peel, and the languid scents of summer, and

it

produces a weird numbing effect on the

15

land of plenty

lips

and tongue. This

tingling sensation

known

is

Chinese as mo, which also

in

means "anesthetic" and "pins-and-needles." Despite the this spice, its taste

my

succumb

friends and relatives

quickly to

curiously, that

its

numbing

The

finest Sichuan

have seen most of

I

aromatic charms.

its

explanation for the widespread use of this pepper

One

folk

Sichuanese cooking

in

is,

people to consume more chiles than

effects allow

would otherwise be humanly

strangeness of

initial

and fragrance are incomparable, and

possible!

pepper

in

China

is

grown

mountains of western Sichuan. Local people say

you can rub the raw spice onto your palm and

Hanyuan county

in

fragrance

its

smell

still

it

in

the

so strong that

is

on the back of

your hand, through skin and bone. Hanyuan Sichuan pepper was used as a scent before offered

was

in

actually

bines,

it

became

cooking spice, and

a

tribute to the

it

was so

highly prized that

emperors of China. During the Han period, the

it

was

spice

mixed into the mud walls of the residences of imperial concu-

which became known as "pepper houses"

term that sur-

(jiao fang), a

vived into the late imperial era, although the practice didn't. According to

Sichuanese scholars, the custom arose not only because of

because the Sichuan pepper plant bears many seeds and

symbol of

fertility.

Sichuan pepper and peanuts are

and grooms at weddings

Most

muggy

climate. it

Chinese

In

thus a traditional

thrown over brides

still

areas.

dampness

medicine,

is

seen

dangerously

as

impairs the yang energy of the body and causes sluggishness.

The best way to restore

a healthy equilibrium

is

to eat foods that drive out

moisture and dispel the cold, which makes heating foods Sichuan pepper part of the perfect local

creeping dampness height of summer,

like chiles, ginger,

Sichuanese people

diet.

to eat plenty of chiles not only during the winter,

tally,

fragrance, but

people ascribe the spiciness of Sichuanese cooking to the

local

unhealthy, for

in rural

is

its

and

feel obliged

when they conquer

the

that penetrates every layer of clothing, but also at the

when they

aid perspiration

and dispel humidity. (Inciden-

several Sichuanese friends, reared on stereotypes of

rainy,

foggy London,

have remarked on the suitability of Sichuanese food for the English climate!) Sichuan

much

is

also

famous for

its

mistiness, for the gray moistness that for

of the year shrouds trees and rivers, blotting out the sunlight. Clear

skies are famously rare, so sight of the sun {shu

quan

much so

fei ri).

that they say Sichuanese dogs bark at the

But against

colors of a typical Sichuanese meal: the

all

this dismal

chili-oil

weather, picture the

dressing on a bowlful of fresh

fava beans, the scarlet pickled chiles resplendent

on a braised

fish,

the cool

INTRODUCTION

The

pinks of aromatic boiled meats, the dusky red of Sichuan pepper.

cooking not only restores the body, heart and offer a

fitting

its

autumn colors

rich

local

also soothe the

rebuke to the perennial grayness of the

sky.

THE DEVELOPMENT OF SICHUANESE CUISINE The Sichuan region has long been famous for its cooking. As far back as the fifth century A.D., a historian, Chang Qu, remarked on local people's liking for interesting flavors and hot-and-fragrant dishes {shang z; we/, hao xin xiang).

about the sixth century

By

the regional cuisine was embarking on a period

a.d.

of great development, and by the Song Dynasty (tenth to thirteenth centuries)

it

was becoming known

over China.

all

In

the early days, however, the

came not from

intense, spicy tastes of the region's cooking

chiles,

but from

flavorings like ginger, betel nuts, and, later, pepper. It

was only

arrived

in

in

the sixteenth century, the late Ming period, that chiles

first

China from the Americas and contemporary botanical sources

described them as "barbarian peppers" {fan

sented the chile as an ornamental plant, and

it

jiao).

These early sources pre-

was another century before

its

use to flavor food was documented.

By the mid-eighteenth century, Yangtze region, but tivation

it

wasn't

became common

were adopted by the ing their

in

chiles

were widely eaten

in

the lower

the early nineteenth century that their cul-

until

One can only imagine how readily they who had long been accustomed to season-

Sichuan.

local people,

food boldly to counter the unhealthy humors of the climate. Their

use spread during the reign of the Qing emperors, China's

last

imperial

became ever more famous for its strong, intense use of hot and numbing spices. These days, chiles are an

dynasty, and Sichuanese food tastes and intriguing

indispensable part of the Sichuanese diet, but their dialect name, hai jiao ("sea

peppers"), remains as a reference to their foreign origins. (Strangely, the use of chiles has

all

but disappeared

in

the coastal parts of China that

first

encountered them.) People sometimes ascribe the distinctiveness of Sichuan's culture to geographical isolation.

Look

at a topographical

the green, fertile Sichuan basin its

the Yangtze River, which snakes finally,

the sea.

map

of China and you'll see why:

ringed by forbidding mountains, with the

The only way out is along the path of way through treacherous gorges to central Before the advent of railways and modern trans-

vast Tibetan plateau rising to

China and,

is

west.

its

17

land of plenty

was something of an ordeal

port, reaching Sichuan

poet

Li

Bai describe the

way there

as

more

difficult

— not

for nothing did the

than the road to heaven.

More than

Actually, however, Sichuan has not had a history of isolation.

two thousand years huang (the one

ago, the forces of China's great unifying emperor,

who was

Qin

Shi-

buried with the terracotta army), defeated the

ancient western kingdoms of Ba and Shu and brought the Sichuan basin under central control. His followers, migrating to the region

nese

plains, are

from the central Chi-

own

thought to have brought with them some of their

eating

customs, beginning a long process of cultural exchange between the Sichuan region and the rest of China.

times of peace, the Sichuan region often closed

In

behind

on

in

to a trickle. Each period of

war or

dynastic upheaval, however,

waves of immigrants entering the province. The most dramatic In

retreating

itself,

geographical fortifications, the inward flow of immigrants slowing

its

saw great

influx

occurred

the late Ming and early Qing dynastic periods, around the seventeenth cen-

tury.

The dying days

of the Ming had seen conflict and chaos

all

over China,

and war, pestilence, and natural disasters had decimated the population of the Sichuan region. Vast areas of valuable farmland had fallen into disuse. As the

new Qing

rulers

worked to restore food production and

they encouraged large-scale immigration into the result,

bring about stability,

fertile

Sichuan basin. As a

the following century saw a huge influx of outsiders from about a

dozen other Chinese provinces. Most of the population of today's Chengdu are thought to be descendants of outsiders.

Centuries lions

later,

during the Japanese invasion of China

of people from

in

the 1930s, mil-

northern and coastal areas sought refuge

Sichuan, and Chongqing, Sichuan's second

city,

inland

in

became the wartime

capital of

the Nationalist government.

Every wave of immigration has brought ences. Sichuanese food,

very distinctive

local

like

new

cultural

and culinary

Sichuanese opera and the local dialect, may have a

character, but today's "traditional" culinary repertoire

incorporates many outside influences: most notably chiles from South ica,

but also roasting and smoking techniques that originated

kitchens

in

effort in

is

said to have

1930s Chongqing, and

in

Amer-

the imperial

from the eastern provinces, an interest

Beijing, "red-braising"

deep-frying that

influ-

come from Americans supporting all

in

war came

the

kinds of dumplings and snacks that

from northern and coastal areas.

These days the pace of change

is

inevitably faster,

and

local

cooks are

INTRODUCTION

beginning to experiment with Japanese wasabi,

name

Korean-influenced barbecues, to

just

kinds of fresh seafood, and

all

people are

few. Sichuanese

a

beginning to learn about Western food and wine, so there's no doubt that

more and more foreign ingredients will work their way into the cuisine. Few local chefs or gourmets see this as a threat: such dence

in

Sichuanese cooking

skills

new

prospect of having so many

that they

local diet is

sauces

made with green wasabi

their confi-

merely excited at the

are

ingredients and techniques to play with.

dishes spring up every day, such as air-freighted fresh sea crabs chiles by the traditional "dry-braising"

and

New

cooked with

method, or Sichuanese "mustard -flavor"

instead of the

common

yellow mustard.

THE LAND OF PLENTY Sichuan its

is

known

China as "the land of plenty"

in

agricultural wealth.

and

its

abundance of

The region nia: as

The

fertile soil of

the Sichuan basin,

and river water create

rain

{tian fu zhi

guo) because of

warm

its

climate,

ideal conditions for farming.

has been a center of food production for

more than two

early as the third century B.C., an imperial official,

millen-

Bing, supervised

Li

the harnessing of the rivers near Chengdu with the enormous Dujiangyan gation project, which you can

From the all

still

irri-

see today.

rich Sichuan earth spring forth

all

kinds of fruits and vegetables,

year round: local specialties include various types of mandarin oranges,

pomeloes, apples and pears, lychees and longans, peaches and loquats, Chinese chives,

many

bamboo

varieties of

shoot, celery, eggplants, lotus leaves and

stems, water spinach, and gourds and melons of tionally fine tea leaves

dlehead ferns {jue

cai),

grow

in

all

shapes and

the mountains, and wild vegetables such as

and streams, once the habitat of a multitude of

mountains, forests, and grasslands teem with

and

all

extraordinary pantry

Sichuanese well

wildlife:

is

fish.

crisscrossed by

The surrounding

exotic fungi, wild frogs,

filled

salt

is

its

mountains, forests,

rivers,

and

plains,

lennia,

another celebrated

purity of flavor. Salt has been

and the

salt

is

one

with the stuff of gastronomic dreams. local

product.

It

is

heating bittern extracted from salt mines deep within the earth and its

fid-

kinds of medicinal roots and herbs. To the eyes of Chinese gourmets,

the entire Sichuan region, with

for

Excep-

Houttuynia cordata (ze'er gen), and the spring shoots of

the Chinese toon tree {chun ya) are also enjoyed. Sichuan rivers

sizes.

mined

mines founded by

in

the area for

irrigation

expert

made by is

prized

more than two Li

Bing

in

mil-

the third

land of plenty

century

are annong the oldest

B.C.

were nearly

five

hundred

tion, today's Zigong,

Of course

it's

in

the area, and the center of

halls of

produc-

salt

as the "salt capital" {yan du).

see the Qing Dynasty

still

now house

which

the world. By the the Tang Dynasty there

In

mines

became known

Zigong today, you can tration,

salt

If

you

visit

the old Salt Adminis-

museum.

a local salt industry

not only the raw materials that contribute to the diversity of

Sichuanese cuisine. Local people have developed an extraordinarily sophisticated culinary tradition, with a

whole armory of

ingredients. Sichuanese chefs are well tle

control of heat, and

unmatched

quite

in

most of all

skills

known

for processing and cooking their

for their cutting

skills,

for their sub-

for their inspired flavoring techniques, which are

Chinese and possibly

in

global cooking.The combination of

these crafts can transform even a limited range of ingredients into a banquet the resources available to the

official

infinite.

Chinese scholarship has a long-standing love of detailed is

also reflected in Chinese food culture. Sichuanese

complex culinary vocabulary, much of which into English. Recipe

books

—with

cooks of the great mansions of the past and

the expert chefs of the present day, the possibilities are almost

which

all

is

classification,

cooks use a highly

almost impossible to translate

identify fifty-six distinct

cooking methods, their

dif-

ferences minutely analyzed (see page 358). There are different terms for every

type of

slice

and chunk (see page 32 on

cutting),

and twenty-three

"official"

Sichuanese flavoring combinations (see page 353). Subtle gradations of texture

or "mouth-feel" (kou gan) are recognized and labeled. Professional cooking manuals preface every recipe with a note on the flavor category, cooking

method, and ter

special characteristics (te dian) of the dish

might include

expressed

somewhat

in

appearance, fragrance, and

its

a catchy, formulaic "four-character"

bureaucratically ranked according to

be, for example, a high-level

banquet

dish, a

its

in

question

texture

and

—the is

phrase. Each dish class

or function

—

lat-

usually is it

also

might

middle-ranking banquet dish, or a

"convenient dish for the masses" {da zhong bian can). Scholars and

officials

throughout Chinese history have written about the

pleasures of eating, and an appreciation of fine food was one of the traditional

accomplishments of the Confucian gentleman. Some of China's most famous food writers were

officials

scholars suggest they

whose

may have

political

tried to

careers had been thwarted. Food

drown

their professional

sorrows

gastronomy. Whatever their motivations, the interest of the educated eating,

ment 20

if

not generally

in

cooking, must have been a key factor

of such a very sophisticated culinary culture.

in

in

elite in

the develop-

INTRODUCTION

CHENGDU AND CHONGQING Chengdu, the ancient of Sichuanese cuisine.

It

taste for the luxuries of

made

life

life.

there easier than

many

in

rants,

in

a teahouse or devouring

Chengdu has changed out of

when

never happier than

some

recognition

all

if

you

visit

you can

still

find glimpses of the sensibility that created a

that can last for a

produce

plentiful

parts of China, and the local population

they were playing cards or mahjong

decade, but

capital

wealthy merchants long ago developed a

its

Chengdu's mellow climate and

a reputation for being idle pleasure-lovers,

delicious local food.

many ways the

in

is

has been a center of silk production and brocade

weaving for two millennia, and

earned

Shu kingdom,

capital of the

of the

the

in

last

the remaining old teahouses and the nicer restau-

whole afternoon, and

a

cup of tea

hotpot you can mull over from

dusk to midnight.

To the east of Chengdu

now

a separate

Chongqing, formerly Sichuan's second

lies

municipality.

Chongqing

is

a

mountain

city,

city

and

clinging to the

steep banks of the Yangtze River. Before the railways, this river was Sichuan's

most important transportation still

with the rest of China; and Chongqing

link

and the

to Shanghai

Chengdu's;

in fact

sea.

so overwhelming

of China's "furnace cities" {huo ple to this heat

and humidity

than their Chengdu fiendishly hot

The steep

lu).

is

the

is

hills

a melting

the outside world. in

Chongqing

neighbors, so

more

Chongqing

it's

known

as

one

chiles

folk

and Sichuan pepper

cooking can be quite

and busy port give Chongqing a much brisker atmosphere is

reflected

in its

new food

culinary culture.

Chongqing

trends and a dynamic innova-

pot as well as a furnace, the point at which Sichuan meets

Many

of Sichuan's

most famous dishes rose to prominence

— most notably the Sichuan hotpot, and

with pickled mustard greens {suan cai

down on

heat that

Predictably, the response of the local peo-

to eat even

has traditionally been a rich source of It is

summer

and numbing.

than Chengdu, and this fast pace

tor.

is

downstream through the Three Gorges The Chongqing climate is even steamier than

a crucial river port, sending boats

yu).

in

recent years

fish

soup

Chongqingers traditionally look

the people of Chengdu for being lazy and out-of-date

in

their eating

The inhabitants of Chengdu habitually retort that while Chongqing people may know how to invent a good dish, their food is coarse and crude and needs the refining touch of Chengdu chefs before it can become really habits.

great cuisine.

21

— land of plenty

DIFFERENT FOOD TRADITIONS HOMESTYLE COOKING Homestyle cooking

is

where

dishes that

homes and

like

stir-fried vegetables,

homemade

ding),

ji

tossed

in

nostalgia

fu),

and

when

pock-marked

Gong Bao (Kung

Pao) chicken

{hui

guo

scrumptious and easy to prepare; simple

all

wok

the

with a few chiles or Sichuan pepper

pork

chili oil

and a

—ducks,

chick-

pickled vegetables, served with a drizzling of

scattering of sugar; the traditional feast dishes of rural Sichuan ens, or

steamed for hours

belly

away

they're

rou),

twice-cooked pork

Mother Chen's bean curd {ma po dou with peanuts {gong bao

onto serving platters when the guests

in

earthenware bowls and turned out

arrive.

Sichuanese homestyle cooking lacks the refinement of banquet cuisine: flavors are strong style of

and robust,

ingredients seasonal and local.

its

cooking that Sichuanese food

lives

up to

its

through the widespread use of dried and pickled note. Homestyle dishes are not

meals,

like

all

chiles, chili

devilishly

is

in this

bean paste, and

is

another character-

hot,

however: ordinary

banquets, should offer a variety of flavors, with mild, simple dishes

to counterbalance the rich and

fiery.

Chinese gourmets have a long tradition of the simple peasant

diet. Today,

many exotic banquets, of Sichuanese

plicity

It

its

hot-and-spicy reputation,

Sichuan pepper. The sour spiciness of pickled vegetables istic

is

informal restaurants, the kind of

make Sichuanese people dreamy with

from home. Old favorites

husks;

the soul of Sichuanese cuisine. This

you'll find

the hearty, economical cooking of

still

home

idealizing rustic

cooking and

Chengdu's discerning diners-out, veterans of

insist that

there

is

nothing to beat the hearty sim-

cooking.

STREET FOOD Sichuan

snacks

in

—

general, and

Chengdu

in

particular, are

famous for their street

the dumplings, noodles, and other delicious nibbles that are

collectively as "little eats" {xiao ch/). Almost every

town has

its

a kind of leaf-wrapped dumpling, perhaps, or a cold-dressed style of noodles. These delicacies

ant vendors

bought

who

this way,

22

chi,

specialty

meat

dish,

or a

were originally sold on the streets by itinerin one particular snack. Some can still be

each specialized

although

it's

more common now

shops or restaurants that specialize of xiao

own

known

see page 85.)

in

to eat the snacks

in

noodle

them. (For a more detailed description

INTRODUCTION

BANQUET COOKING A Sichuanese banquet can oso cooking tion.

skills, far

be an astonishing display of exotic dishes and virtu-

beyond the home cook

in

terms of scale and elabora-

Banquet menus usually feature expensive ingredients such as dried

seafood, as well as rare wild delicacies from the mountains and forests that

surround the Sichuan

basin.

(These are known collectively as "treasures from

One

the mountains and the seas," shan zhen hai we/.)

famous banquet dishes duck

is

duck with

stewed with Cordyceps

is

most

of Sichuan's

caterpillar fungus {chong coo ya

The

zi).

fungus from the Tibetan grasslands

sinensis, a

that invades the bodies of caterpillars and

grows

inside them, until nothing

is

of the creatures but their outer shells. When they are harvested, the fungi

left

look exactly

The fungus

like caterpillars,

is

which makes for a very interesting duck soup.

prized as a medicine and has been used

for around three

in

Sichuanese cooking

hundred years.

Sichuanese cooks also use distinctive regional cooking methods to prepare

some

universal Chinese delicacies such as shark's

gant banquets would also include dishes

most famously

made with

bear's paw, but the listing of

years has outlawed

many of these legendary

fin;

the most extrava-

parts of wild animals,

endangered species

in

recent

delicacies.

Banquet cooking features dishes of great wit and

subtlety, designed to

surprise and enchant the dinner guests. So you might be served "chicken bean

curd soup"

(j;

dou hua), which resembles the cheap-and-cheerful "flower"

bean curd eaten

in

eastern Sichuan but

chicken breast; or "white cabbage

Chinese cabbage served dish

is

that the cabbage

exquisite stock

a

made from

actually

made with

modest, everyday vegetable, but

finely cai), a

pureed

whole

it is

served

this

in

an

chicken, duck, ham, and pork bones. Platters of

ornately carved vegetables arranged tail"

is

boiled water" {kai shui bai

bowl of perfectly clear soup. The marvel of

a

in is

in

forms

in

{kong que kai ping) or "panda fighting

make occasional appearances on banquet

like

a

"peacock spreading

bamboo"

(xiong

mao zhan

its

zhu)

tables.

Sichuanese banquets almost always supplement the exotica with expert renditions of much-loved cal

common

dishes, like the

bowl-steamed dishes

typi-

of rural feasts. Expert Sichuanese chefs have a tradition of adopting and

refining rustic regional dishes,

Sichuan

in

and many

still

make

trips into the rural areas of

order to search for fresh culinary inspiration. The higher you go on

the social scale of banqueting, however, the lighter and

more

delicate the

fla-

23

land of plenty

vors are

to be. Although

likely

some

dishes nnay be a

little

hot and numbing

in

the spirit of Sichuanese homestyle cooking, these tastes won't play a major part

in

In

the meal.

Sichuanese homes, everyone

toward the end of symbol of the

avoid

this,

steamed

vy^ith

rice

a meal. But at banquets, rice usually isn't served at

fact that feasting

home

after a

all:

a

not about inexpensive staple food, but

is

about the pleasure and the luxury of possible to go

themselves up

fills

eating.

For

this

reason

twenty-course banquet and

It

is,

incredibly,

feel hungry.

still

restaurants usually serve each banquet guest one or

To

two wheat- or

rice-based street snacks, to offset the richness of the meal.

OTHER CULINARY TRADITIONS Chinese Buddhist monasteries have a long-standing tradition of vegetarianism, and although most monks and nuns exist on a simple diet of beans, grains, and vegetables, the larger monasteries run special

more

restaurants providing

elaborate vegetarian fare. The most distinctive aspect of this grand vegetarian food,

known

as fo zhai cai,

is

many

that

dishes are

made

to imitate meat or

fish in their

appearance, taste, and texture. This cuisine of artful mimicry can

be found

over China, but Sichuanese monasteries have their

all

style, offering vegetarian

cooked pork

{hui

own

regional

versions of classic Sichuanese dishes such as twice-

guo rou) and dry-fried eels {gan bian shan

detailed explanation of fo zhai

cai,

si).

(For a

more

see page 283.)

Chinese Muslims also cook their

own

cialized restaurants, using beef, chicken,

versions of Sichuanese food

in

spe-

and sometimes lamb as substitutes for

pork. Classic pork dishes are served up with a twist, creating hybrids

like fish-

fragrant beef slivers, chicken slices with crispy rice, and beef versions of

many

pork-stuffed dumplings.

EATING THE SICHUANESE WAY If

you are invited for dinner

in

a

Sichuanese home, there

few cold dishes on the table when you arrive peanuts, a plateful of preserved radish ket,

some

cold meats, or a

dining table, the

cook

will

cucumber

still

be

in

in chili

salad.

will

— perhaps

probably be a

some

deep-fried

sauce picked up from the mar-

When

everyone

is

seated at the

the kitchen for a while, keeping an eye on

the braised meat stew, stir-frying the vegetables and mushrooms, making the

24

INTRODUCTION

simple soup that least

one

conclude the meal.

will

more, and to go on morsels, placing

eating,

them

will

very informal dinner

your

number

to the

limit

be encouraged to

and attentive hosts

directly into

soup rinses and refreshes the

final

no

dish per person, but there's

you may be offered. As a guest, you

A

will

offer

will

have at

of dishes that

eat,

and to eat

you the choicest

bowl with their chopsticks.

rice

palate. Rice

is

usually offered

A

toward the

end of the meal, with a small dish of pickled vegetables to "send the

rice

down" (x/o fan). Fresh fruit may be served after dinner. More elaborate restaurant meals follow a similar pattern, but with far more dishes. Cold food is served first, and then the hot dishes emerge from the kitchen one by one until the whole table is laden with food. You may also be offered tiny individual bowls of dumplings, side.

A

final, clear,

end. This

is

little

fancies to be eaten

a sign that the

meal

is

on the

drawing to an

may be followed by one or two simple "send-the-rice-down"

fan) dishes, with

touch, a

stock-based soup

or without the actual

rice,

(x;o

and the inevitable Sichuanese

nibble of pickled vegetables. There's also a recent, Cantonese-

final

influenced fashion for platters of cut fruit to be served at the end of the meal.

Among

the

hot dishes, there are

no hard-and-fast

sequence of dishes on menus, although every good cook etition of ingredients, tastes,

with dry,

salty,

intensely flavored dishes and

chili oil.

The

meanders among

classic

is

very

much

Dynasty gourmet Yuan Mei,

to avoid rep-

in

all

manner of

soup and sour pickles

Sichuanese soups are usually undersalted and

often include ribbons of pickled mustard greens regional style

will try

about the

or textures. The typical Sichuanese meal starts

tastes and textures before ending with a bland, clear

drizzled with

rules

—another

sour note. The

keeping with the advice of the great Qing

who made

the following

comments on the

struc-

turing of flavors within a meal:

Salty dishes should

come

first,

bland ones afterwards.

Strong flavors should precede the

weak

ones.

Dry dishes should conie before soupy ones. There are If

five flavors

under Heaven, so you mustn't attend only to the

you suspect your dinner guests have eaten their

fill,

and

salty.

their spleens are

fatigued.

You must

stir

If you think

them

into action with spice

and hotness.

your guests have drunk too much, making their digestions sluggish,

You must enliven them with flavors sour and sweet.

25

land of plenty

To

you some idea of the variety of

give

a translation of the

menu

memorable lunch

of a

restaurant {piao xiang), held

a Sichuanese banquet, here follows at the Drifting Fragrance

honor of the food conference organized by

in

Sichuan University and the Sichuan Institute of Higher Cuisine

Cold dishes: cold rice dressing

{ma

five-spiced

jelly in a {jie

mo

qing

Jiang feng we/),

"smoked"

huang guo), "phoenix

peanuts {hua ren dou

ji),

lettuce

tail"

tea-smoked pigeons {zhang cha

ru ge),

ni

ban mao

crab with red chiles {hong jiao xiang

la

xie), fast-fried

braised white cabbage with Yunnan

ham

rou),

tional

bowl-steamed duck with pickled vegetables {dong

braised turtle with potatoes

{tai zi lu

a fiery sauce {chuan nan shui zhu niu

hua

shao

soup of green vegetable

fer-

in

meal {piao xiang fen

{yun tui shao bai ca/), tradicai lao pai

kou

ya),

bao), South Sichuan boiled beef slices liu),

tips

in

hot-and-fragrant

fish

in

with pickled vegetables {pao cai

"dragon-eye" sweet steamed pork with glutinous rice {long yan

yu),

bai),

tripe

lu pin),

duck tongues

rice

zheng

gui

dry bean curd with

shi j;n),

steamed pork with

{Jiang bao ya she),

chicken with

du).

dishes: braised sea cucumber {hai shen shao

mented sauce

yu),

May 2000:

cucumber in mustard stems in sesame sauce

Sichuanese cold meats {chuan wei

fu gan),

hot and garlicky sauce {suan

Hot

{wu xiang xun gui

fish

spicy sauce {huang Hang fen ban

in

with a chicken-breast coating

{ji

tian

meng

kui cai tang).

"Send-the-rice-down" dish:

pickled string beans stir-fried with green chiles

and minced pork

chao Ian rou jiang dou).

{xiao qing jiao

Snacks: deep-fried sweet potato cakes {zha shao spicy sauce {hong you shui jiao),

Sichuan pepper {jiao yan zong

bing), boiled

dumplings

leaf-wrapped cones of glutinous

in

rice with

zi).

DRINKS Sichuan

is

famous not only for

its

food, but also for the excellence of

wines and teas. The wines are strong, vodka-like

ous grains and drunk

in tiny

touch them, so when a danger

26

in

the

air.

Men

china cups, almost

woman

will quaff

concoctions made from like

does indulge, there cup after cup,

its

vari-

thimbles. Women scarcely is

a whiff of scandal

ritualistically, in

and

formal toasts or

INTRODUCTION

At formal dinners,

casual drinking games.

common

keep up a

pace of drinking

(Cheers! Bottoms up!),

—

men

all

present are expected to

one guest

if

calls

out "gan

be/7"

almost impossible for the others to refuse another

it's

drink.

most famous wine

Sichuan's

grant clear liquor

is

Wine

Five Grain

made from sorghum,

rice,

{wu Hang

tionally

mixed with water from the middle of the Min

of Yibin

in

southern Sichuan,

a bit for export. five

Some

is

is

Quan

an intensely fra-

River. The wine, a specialty

60 proof, although apparently they tone

of the wine cellars

hundred years, to the Ming Dynasty.

scene

ye),

glutinous rice, wheat, and corn, tradi-

Xing, a strong white

in

this

down

Yibin are thought to date back about

A more recent arrival on the Sichuan wine

sorghum wine that has been made

in

Chengdu

since the early nineteenth century.

At informal meals, Sichuanese people often drink beer or these are very recent at

all,

arrivals.

More

traditionally, drinks

might not be offered

but the simple soup served at the end of the meal has a similar function,

to quench thirst and rinse the palate.

sound unpromising, but Tea

it's

progress as

is

the practice

over from cooking rice

left

actually delicious

usually served before

is

the Sichuan countryside, less well-off

In

people slake their thirst with the water

is

in

properties and

served

is

leaves yield a liquid that

all is

may

Chinese restaurants

in

the West.

over Chengdu pinkish red

in

in

One

exception

which has cooling

the hotter months.

color

in

The brewed

—the perfect accompaniment is

a Daoist (Taoist) spe-

grown on the slopes of the holy Daoist mountain, Qing Cheng

is

Shan, which

this

and nourishing.

to a typically Sichuanese meal. "Red-and-white tea"

and

—

or after meals, but not while they are

a herbal tea called "red-and-white tea" (hong bai cha),

cialty

soft drinks, but

lies

to the northwest of Chengdu.

THE FLAVORS OF SICHUAN China

is

the place for food

But Sichuan shi zai

wei

Anyone who is

zai

is

the place for flavor

zhong guo si

chuan

has eaten

in

Sichuan

will

know

that this

common

no exaggeration. The Sichuanese are legendary for their

many

different tastes into exquisite

compound

Chinese saying

ability

to combine

flavors {fu he wei). Local chefs

27

—

.

land of plenty

boast of using twenty-three distinct combinations of

flavor,

which, applied to a

wide variety of raw ingredients, create an immense diversity of tastes (they say each and every

unique flavor

one of

hundred Sichuanese dishes

a

cai yi ge, bai cai bai we/).

yi

A

will

have

its

own

Sichuanese banquet can be an

intriguing culinary journey, teasing the palate with a

whole sequence of con-

trasting flavors: strong, spicy tastes, rich sweet-and-sours, gently aromatic cold

meats, delicate soups

.

.

Western science identifies four fundamental tastes: salty, sweet, sour, and bitter. The Chinese, however, traditionally have five, in keeping with their theoelements (metal, wood, water,

ries of the five

fire,

and earth) and

tions (north, south, east, west, and center), and their liking for fives

The

five

five direcin

general.

fundamental Chinese tastes, which have been recognized since the

time of Confucius, are salty

sour (suan), hot or pungent

who

like

to go their

or han

{xian,

tian),

own way

in

(xin

or

in la),

Sichuan dialect), sweet {gan or

and bitter

(ku).

The Sichuanese,

so many respects, have their

own

localized

version of these five fundamental tastes: they replace bitter with ma, the

extraordinary numbing taste of Sichuan pepper.

Some Chinese most important,

terms defy

flavoring

probably,

nese culinary language.

is

xian,

all

direct translation into English.

one of the most

beautiful

words

in

The

the Chi-

expresses the indefinable, delicious taste of fresh

It

meat, poultry, and seafood, the scrumptious flavors of a pure chicken soup, the subtle magic of freshly rendered lard. Xian describes the

of nature;

it

is

the Chinese cook's muse, the essence of flavor

Chinese gastronomy

is

ingredients, enhancing

rooms, teasing

most exalted

it

itself.

flavors

Much

concerned with bringing out the xian taste of

it

here and there with chicken

out with small amounts of

salt

fat

of

fine

or fragrant mush-

or sugar, using wine, ginger,

and scallions to dispel the tastes of blood and rawness. At the giddy heights of the culinary arts, Chinese chefs lend xian to wonderfully textured but palein complex stocks made from x/on-rich more humble kitchens, people use lard or chicken fat to stir-fry vegetables, imbuing them with sumptuous xian flavors that don't actually recall the taste of meat. Many English writings on Chinese

tasting ingredients by

foods

like

simmering them

pork, duck, and chicken.

In

food translate xian as "fresh," "natural," or "savory," each of which captures an aspect of the

word but not

its

whole.

Nowadays, under the influence of modern science, xian has become associated with foods that are naturally rich "flavor enhancers"

28

known

in

glutamic acid and the other natural

as nucleotides, like certain types of

mushrooms and

INTRODUCTION

when

seafood. Since the beginning of this century,

ered

how

to isolate glutamic acid

glutamate, or

in

MSG, Chinese cooks have used

enhance the xian of the dishes they prepare. but unfortunately many kitchens

a Japanese scientist discov-

the laboratory

now

use

In

in

monosodium white powder to

the form of

this

fine

moderation,

MSG

this

and top-quality ingredients, and at the expense of more subtle bitter irony that in

China of

all

places,

where

is all

very well,

as a substitute for real stocks flavors.

It

is

a

chefs have spent centuries devel-

oping the most sophisticated culinary techniques, this mass-produced white

powder should have been given the name we/ j/ng, "the essence of flavor." Another concept crucial to understanding Chinese cooking is that of dispelling unpleasant odors, which are known collectively as yi wei ("peculiar smells") and more specifically as xing wei ("fishy odors"), sao wei ("foul odors"), and shan wei ("muttony odors"). To the Chinese, the smells and tastes of

raw meat and

fish

are

most unappetizing, and they use

of means to suppress or eradicate them.

or stewing pan

is

Raw meat

a

wide variety

destined for the stockpot

usually blanched first to get rid of any remaining blood

and

impurities. Salt, Shaoxing rice wine, Sichuan pepper, fresh ginger, and scallion

are widely used

meats

like

in

marinades, especially those involving

fish

or strong-tasting

beef or lamb. A few pieces of crushed ginger and scallion and a few

husks of Sichuan pepper are invariably added to stews or stocks

meat or

poultry. (This

may seem very

does improve the flavor

—

esoteric to

made from

Western cooks, but

it

really

just try comparing the taste and smell of pork-bone

made with and without a little scallion and ginger if you don't believe it.) The concern with these unpleasant raw smells in animal foods is an ancient one: they are even mentioned in the Spring and Autumn Annals, a text stocks

dating back to the Warring States period (around the third century

Some

vegetables also have unpleasant tastes that must be dispelled

tongue-curling "astringent taste" (se wei) of spinach and

some

—

B.C.).

like

the

types of bam-

boo shoots. Cantonese cooks are famously preoccupied with preserving and bringing out the natural,

original xian tastes of their fine, fresh ingredients.

to add their seasonings with a

light

and delicate touch

in

They tend

order to enhance

but not to overwhelm their raw materials. Sichuanese cooks, by contrast, are

famous for their creation of complex xian tastes and strong, robust (nong) vors through the audacious mixing of the

five basic tastes.

fla-

At the highest ech-

elons of Sichuanese banquet cooking, tastes can be light and refined, reflecting

the influence of the old imperial

elite

who came from

outside the province.

29

land of plenty

Elsewhere, you'll find the flavors strong and hearty, Sichuan pepper, enticingly fragrant with flavors,

with chiles and

lavish

and scallion.The strong

garlic, ginger,

however, are not meant to obliterate the natural tastes of the raw

you should be able to taste their xian

ingredients, and

spiciness

{la

zhong you xian

at the heart of

all

this

wei).

Sichuanese cooks often refer to saltiness as the foundation, the essential

background against which the colors of

a

complex

flavor are sketched. Salti-

ness brings out the natural qualities of raw ingredients

make

that you cannot

tant salty flavoring

area since the

is

Sichuan well

Han dynasty and

fermented black beans, and of is

salt.

without

a dish

is

chili

it

—there

{wu ban bu cbeng

salt,

co/).

which has been mined

lauded for

its

even a saying

is

The most importhe Zigong

in

intense, pure taste.

Soy sauce,

bean paste are important secondary sources

Sweetness, from white, brown, or crystal sugars, and sometimes honey,

a significant

note

in

some compound

flavors,

but can also be used subtly,

in

amounts, to tease out the natural tastes of main ingredients. Sourness

tiny

comes from vinegar or plums (me/ flavors,

zi).

pickled vegetables, and historically from salted unripe

Bitterness, though not considered

appears occasionally,

melon and

bles like bitter

in

one of the

five

fundamental

the use of tangerine peel and certain vegeta-

bitter

bamboo

shoot. Chiles

in

various forms are

the most famous source of Sichuanese hotness, but local cooks also place

white pepper, fresh ginger, hot) flavor family.

garlic, scallions

The numbing ma

and mustard

taste, of course,

the same

in

comes

la (spicy-

exclusively from

Sichuan pepper.

These

basic tastes are

combined

complex

into a vast array of

flavors and,

with a typically Chinese love of numbers and of categorization, Sichuanese

cooks and gourmets have precisely labeled them. Each has its

its

own

degree of spiciness,

a

canon of

distinct characteristics, its

effect

its

at least

twenty-three of

balance of sweet and sour,

on the tongue and

palate.

But

organized approach to the theory of flavor does not imply any

Sichuanese cooks are amazingly inventive, and every chef

importance of a

spirited, flexible {ling buo)

talk of

looks forward to

more

highly

stresses the "official"

and augmented. Food writers

expanding the canon to include newly popular flavors

juice flavor" {guo zbi wei)

and "tomato sauce flavor"

(q;e zbi wei).

like "fruit

Everyone

exciting combinations.

For a brief description of the twenty-three cooking, turn to page 353.

30

know

approach to cooking. The

flavors are just a template, to be played with

now

I

this

rigidity: in fact,

"official" flavors

of Sichuanese

INTRODUCTION

TEXTURE One

of the greatest obstacles to a profound appreciation of Chinese food

among people

the

in

West

is

nese, the texture of a dish smell.

ates

There

is

is

every

bit as

important as

its

color, taste,

covers not only texture

in

or, literally,

The concept of kou gan

"mouth-feel."

the Western sense of crispness, softness, chewi-

ness, and so on, but also the pleasurable feeling that stir-fried dish in

which

all

one gets from eating

the ingredients are cut harmoniously into

the satisfaction derived from eating meatballs from which every stringy

and

even a special word for the sensation that a piece of food cre-

the mouth: kou gan,

in

our very limited sense of texture. For the Chi-

tendon has been

slivers,

last

a

or

wisp of

removed.

carefully

Certain types of texture are particularly prized: the crisp, rubbery bite of tripe; the slithery

crunch of

of the flesh nestled

My Chinese

is

silver ear fungus;

eating foods that

is why Chinese people derive such many in the West find weird or even

in

a chicken's foot or wing,

and love the contrasts

in

bean curd scattered with deep-fried nuts and beans. Texture

one of the main attractions of Chinese exotica

cucumber, and

the silky tenderness

friends positively relish using their tongues and teeth to

separate bones and skin a dish of slippery

and

a fish's cheek. This

in

immense pleasure from revolting.

jellyfish

like

why Chinese cooks

partially explains

shark's

and sea

fin

are prepared to spend

hours, or even days, making these rare and expensive ingredients palatable.

Some

of the terms used to describe texture

in

Chinese are untranslatable

because the concepts they express are simply overlooked by Western food lovers. Cui

is

the

first

among these

—

it

refers to a certain quality of crispness,

a texture that offers resistance to the teeth, but finally yields, cleanly, with a

pleasant snappy feeling. This swiftly

a quality of kidneys, cut finely

over a fierce flame; of goose intestines, scalded

pot; of fresh celery and

ness

is

—the

raw snow peas. Su refers to

dry, fragile crispness of deep-fried

briefly in a

used to describe succulent foods

dumplings or potato crisps. Nen

like deftly stir-fried

means "old" and expresses the opposite of

flesh

meat and

is

commonly

fish.

Lao

nen, the toughness of

liter-

mature

and fibrous leaves, or the dryness of tender foods that have been over-

cooked. Pa describes what happens to food when to the point soft

Sichuan hot-

a different kind of crisp-

expresses the delicate tenderness of young leaves and flesh and

ally

and cooked

and

when meat

falls

it is

cooked for

a long time,

away from bones and root vegetables become

pulpy.

Learning to appreciate texture

in

the Chinese way takes a

little

time and

31

— land of plenty

dedication, but really does add an extra dimension to gastronomic pleasure.

Cold is

jellyfish,

served

most Chinese

in

and

slithery, crunch/,

slightly

restaurants,

makes

good beginning:

a

rubbery. Cloud ear fungus, which appears

it

in

many stir-fried dishes, has an equally interesting, but not disturbing, texture. As you eat these things, try to allow your tongue, teeth, and mouth to share in

the pleasure, to see the texture

you

will find

in itself

as

something to be enjoyed. Slowly,

the door opening wider to real enjoyment of Chinese food.

THE ART OF CUTTING Teacher Lu prepares the ingredients for fish-fragrant pork with a smirk of creet pleasure on his face. into the meat, cutting knife glides strips to

and

He

eases the sharpened blade of his shiny cleaver

into even slices, and then into delicate slivers. His

through a piece of translucent lettuce stem, cutting

complement the pork.

finely sliced.

slices scallions,

he has finished artist's palette:

lions,

it

He

dis-

A

it

into slender

few wood ear mushrooms are shaken dry

them

peels ginger and garlic and chops

into tiny grains,

and then pummels a handful of pickled chiles to a puree. When preparations, the seasonings are

his

the pale yellows of ginger and

and a splash of

garlic,

out on a plate

laid

the

light

like

green of the

brilliant chile red.

Cutting has been fundamental to Chinese cooking since ancient times. traditional

and knife

term for the preparation of food skills

chef.

On my

dent,

was given

to class with

are

still

a cleaver along with

me

is

A

ge peng, to cut and to cook,

the essential starting point for any aspiring Sichuan

day at the Sichuan cooking school,

first

an

scal-

my working

like

I,

overalls.

It

every other stu-

was mine, to bring

every day, to become familiar with, to sharpen often on the

enormous whetstone

in

the yard, to keep clean and free from rust. Every

son included instructions for the chopping or

slicing of

les-

the raw ingredients

not an optional extra, but a fundamental part of the character of each individual dish.

There are some meat and poultry

where the main require food that

them are cooked

ingredient is

is

left

dishes, mostly

steamed or stewed,

whole, but the vast majority of dishes

cut into smaller pieces. This

is

partly because

many of

quickly over a high flame, for reasons of economizing fuel as

well as taste, so the pieces of food

must be small and uniform

in

size for the

heat to penetrate evenly. Uneven cutting of the ingredients for a chicken fry,

32

for example, will

make the smaller

stir-

pieces tough and "old" (lao) by the time

INTRODUCTION

the larger pieces are cooked through. Smaller pieces, with a high ratio of sur-

more

face area to volume, also absorb the flavors of sauces and marinades readily than large ones. Again,

speed

important: most Sichuanese cooks

is

add the marinade ingredients to their meat sauces are frequently added to the

wok

cook

just before they

food

just before the

it;

will

and

transferred to

is

the serving dish. Eating with chopsticks also

on the Chinese dining

When

the food

is

served,

it

sticks,

served

in

own demands:

its

soft

knives are never seen

the cutting must be done

all

should either be

whole fowl or steamed meats, acceptable

makes

table, so

in

the kitchen.

in

small pieces or,

the case of

in

enough to tear apart with chopsticks.

Chinese etiquette to hold a larger piece of food

take a bite, and then return

it

to your rice bowl, but

It is

your chop-

in

many foods

are

bite-size pieces.

in

The most aesthetic.

interesting aspect of the Chinese art of cutting, however,

When

Chinese cooks

talk

refer to "color, fragrance, flavor, and

the eyes with

first assail

its

is

the

about the qualities of a dish, they often

form"

(se xiang wei xing).

beauty, then the nose with

its

A

fine dish will

tongue

scent; the

is

the next to be delighted, along with the inside of the mouth. The awareness of "mouth-feel," or kou gan, contributes to the diversity of Sichuanese cooking

because

it

pork, the

opens up so many permutations.

most common of meats,

A

cook can transform

skillful

into countless different dishes by varying

not only the flavorings and the cooking method but also the form. The meat can be sliced, ground, slivered, cut into chunks, or chopped into

Every type of

slice,

every thickness of

a different sensation in the

that

it's

possible to incorporate pork

same meal without

The

sliver,

mouth and

its

every kind of chunk

little

will

a different-looking dish, so in

a

number of

produce

much so

dishes served at the

becoming tedious.

cutting technique used for a particular dish

is

determined by the

nature of the ingredient and the cooking method. Crisp vegetables

and kohlrabi can be sliced with a

meat or steamed bread requires bone can be chopped

cubes.

swift, clean,

like

radish

up-and-down motion; sinewy

a gentle sawing

into chunks, chicken breast

movement. Poultry on the

made

into cubes

or

slivers.

Beef and lamb are almost always sliced against the grain to break up the fibers of the meat; tender chicken

is

cut along the grain, so the pieces don't disinte-

in the wok. Whatever the method, there are two

grate

Is

essential rules.

as regular as possible, to ensure even cooking

One

is

that the cutting

and a pleasant appearance

33

land of plenty

and "mouth-feel." The other in

is

harmony with one another

Gong Bao (Kung plemented

that

as far as possible, again for aesthetic reasons. In

beautifully by the small

match the meat. As with

slivers

the ingredients of a single dish are cut

Pao) chicken, for example, the cubed chicken meat

bamboo shoots and wood

the

all

slivers).

local

chunks of

scallion; for "fish-fragrant" pork,

cooks

say,

This aesthetic

is

ding pei ding,

one

I

find

There

is

also beauty

though

it

were

in

pei

si

(cubes with cubes,

si

so pleasing that

much of my non-Chinese cooking and now make up a salad or a stew. Watching an

if

a scalpel,

first

come up and

is

a real joy.

And

the cutting

correct

my

movement is

I

you choose to look for

although

some

of the techniques is

I

a certain find

most

teacher at the Sichuan cooking school, Gan Guojian, would

posture as

I

hunched over the cutting board,

ginger with a cleaver. "Stand straight," he'd

gers." Cutting

which

in

cutter at work, wielding a cleaver as delicately as

artful

rhythm and meditative quality to doing everything by hand that

My

has perme-

way

influences the

the process of cutting,

it

can be accomplished by a mandoline or a food processor, there

soothing.

com-

ear fungus are both cut into narrow strips to

ated

it.

is

involve your

say.

whole arm, not

not just a means to an end,

slicing

"Relax your shoulders and

it is

just

your wrist and

let fin-

part of the pleasure of Chi-

nese cooking. Sichuanese

cooks

use

an

astonishingly

sophisticated

vocabulary

to

describe the art of cutting. There are at least three basic ways of using the cleaver,

known

as vertical slicing (q/e), horizontal slicing (pian),

{zhan or kan), and

when

and chopping

the direction of the cut and the angle of the knife are

taken into account, these multiply into at least fifteen permutations, each with a different

name. Another dozen or so terms refer to further

knife tech-

niques, including pounding (chui), scraping (gua), and gouging (won). All

the latest encyclopedia of Sichuanese cooking

lists

in all,

thirty-three distinct cutting

terms, and that's without even considering the techniques used

in

more

the

esoteric food arts like vegetable carving!

A

similarly diverse collection of terms,

some

quite poetic, describes the

shapes into which cooking ingredients can be cut: the Sichuan cooking encyclopedia describes no fewer than sixty-three.

Some

are specific to particular

ingredients, like pickled chiles or scallions; others are very general.

term

like "slice" {pian)

has at least ten permutations, including

(gu pai pian), "thumbnail slices"

and "ox-tongue

34

{zlii

A

"domino

basic

slices"

jia pian), "axe-blade slices" (fu leng pian)

slices" {niu she pian). Strips (tiao) are called after chopstick

INTRODUCTION

handles {kuai tiao)

zi tiao),

elephant's tusks (xiang ya tiao), or phoenix tails {feng wei

depending on their precise dimensions. Scallion rings are "flowers" {cong

hua) or "fish eyes" {yu yan cong) according to their length, and scallions sliced at a steep angle are called you'll

"horse ears" {ma er duo)

—

just

make

a

few and

see why.There are nine different ways of cutting scallions alone.

The following chapter

offers a practical introduction to the essentials of

the Chinese art of cutting.

35

basic cutting skills

Almost cooks

the cutting

all

in

the

butchering.

in a

West tend

In fact,

Sichuanese kitchen

to see

the cleaver

is

is

done with

a cleaver.

Some

as a crude instrument, suitable only for

it

the most versatile and sensitive of knives.

blade can be used to slice and chop

all

kinds of

meat and vegetables; to

Its

peel

ginger and even to bone a duck; the sharp back corner of the blade can be

used to crack open a garlic, ginger,

head to release

fish

its

blunt back edge of the blade can be used to paste; hold

flavors; the flat of

it

can crush

and scallions with a whack. Turn the knife upside down and the

it

flat

and use

it

pummel raw meat or

to a

fish

to scoop up chopped vegetables and transfer

them to the wok. There are three

1

essential rules for using the cleaver safely and effectively.

Keep the blade sharp (see instructions on page

46).

A

blunt knife

is

unwieldy, inaccurate, and frustrating to use.

2 Hold the cleaver correctly to protect your fingers (see below). 3 Concentrate on what you are doing.

TECHNIQUES The

following are the basic techniques you will need to

book. Instructions for cutting

recipes

in

given

the few recipes that require them.

in

^^

this

Basic cutting

(q/e):This

most commonly used ring

in

in

make most of the

more complicated ways

fundamental technique

is

the simplest and

the Sichuanese kitchen. Grasp the metal

and the upper edge of the cleaver blade between the thumb and forefinger

of your right hand and use the other fingers to hold the handle firmly

36

are

in

your

BASIC CUTTING SKILLS

Use your other hand to hold the food steady on the

palm.

cutting board: curve

the fingers so that the middle joint presses against the knife blade, keeping a safe distance

moved

behind the curved fingers. The knife can be ing

it

at

from the rest of your hand, and always, always keep your thumb

motion, or eased gently into the food, but

the middle knuckle.

it

in

will

Move your hand backwards

an up-and-down or sawin

check by

cut, gradually

exposing

always be kept

you

as

the food to the blade. Never raise the blade higher than your knuckles.

Horizontal cutting

J*

/T*

boned meat,

slicing

Place the food

onto

its

(p/on):This technique

fish,

and poultry.

It

is

particularly useful for

requires a very sharp knife.

on the cutting board. Turn the cleaver blade

flat

side, parallel to the board. Ease the blade into the side of the

block of

food, guiding the knife edge with the middle and index fingers of your

hand.

Work

slowly at

pile. You

of the

first,

can take the slices from the bottom of the

your

thickness

you work

A^

if

left

it's

make the If

more

difficult

to

make the

slices of

an even

this way.

{zhan or kon):To chop meat, fish, or poultry on the bone,

hold the food firmly safety's

force.

hand, but

Chopping

"^1

pile instead, insert-

above the cutting board and pressing the food down

ing the knife blade just

firmly with

left

taking care to slice off an even layer from the top

sake a

in

your

left

hand as for basic cutting, but for

farther away from the place

little

and bring

cut. Raise the cleaver

it

straight

where you intend to

down

with considerable

you are not absolutely confident of the accuracy of your chopping,

it's

best to hold the food with a fork or other implement rather than your hand

not very professional but much

safer.

If

the bones are large and hard, you should

use a heavier cleaver than that required for other cutting.

To fine-chop ingredients

like garlic,

coriander (cilantro), or candied

fruits,

you can begin by cutting them into reasonably small pieces and then simply ham-

mer

the cleaver

down onto them

repeatedly, keeping your wrist and

and relaxed. You don't need to hold the food with your technique.

Some cooks

about

an inch apart and whacking them

half

use

Punrinieling to in

two

clear

hand

if

arm supple

you use

cleavers for this kind of chopping, holding

down

this

them

alternately.

(chui): Instructions for using

pummel meat to

left

the back of the cleaver

a paste are given in the recipe for chicken balls

soup on page 335.

37

land of plenty

SOME USEFUL SHAPES Slices

)^

(p/on):

slivers, strips,

The

and cubes,

and vary greatly

duced

in

nnost basic shape, and the first stage for making

in

ers literally

means

"silk"

name

for food cut into fine shreds or

1/8 inch thick;

only from crisp vegetable ingredients

the

finest,

it

sliv-

which can be

radish and potato, are

like

"silver-needle silken threads" {yin zhen s/).To cut food into slivers,

cut

are intro-

or "silken thread." The pieces should be

about 3 inches long and about

made

slice

the recipes that require them.

Slivers (s/):The Chinese

^1^

can be cut vertically or horizontally

slices

dimensions. Different types of

known

you must

as

first

into slices the thickness of the desired final sliver; then pile up the slices

either vertically or gradually like a flight of steps, and cut

%

Strips

The most

basic type

of strip

is

into slivers.

like

a

sliver,

shorter and thicker (about 2 inches long and 1/2 inch thick). cut

^

(tiao):

them

in

exactly the

Chunks

(kuo/):

poultry, and

but It

is

same way.

This term covers

all

kinds of chunks of vegetables,

meats, either on or off the bone, and rectangular,

lozenge-shaped, or roll-cut.

"-T*

Cubes cubes

(ding):

Made by

cutting food into slices, then strips, then

1/2 inch to 3/4 inch thick.

Tiny cubes (ke):The same

ft

as cubes, but less than 1/2 inch thick.

Grains (//): Small, irregular pieces of chopped food, approximately the same size as rice grains, mung beans, or soybeans, depending on the recipe. Roll-cut chunks {shu

zi be/):

This technique

long, thin root vegetables like radishes

small potatoes and pieces of taro.

It

38

trimmed vegetable

firmly

used for cutting

and carrots, and sometimes

maximizes the surface area of

the chunks so they can absorb flavors peeled,

is

more

readily.

Hold the

on the cutting board and hold

BASIC CUTTING SKILLS

the cleaver blade vertically but at a steep angle to the vegetable. Cut a diagonal slice

from the end of the vegetable, and then

degrees and take another

tt^ ****^

J^ ji\

slice.

like scallions,

it

away from you by 90

Repeat.

"Horse ears" {ma ents

roll

er duo):

Used

for long, thin vegetable ingredi-

Chinese leeks, and pickled

etables and then cut

them

chiles.

Trim the veg-

at a very steep angle into slices

inches long. Each slice will look remarkably

like a

I

1/2

horse's ear.

39

cooking methods

When mind

wok

Westerners think of Chinese cooking, the

is

usually a fast stir-fry in a

smoking wok.

cooking are certainly essential methods

first

thing that

Stir-frying

in

the Sichuanese kitchen, but

they are only part of the picture. Sichuanese chefs claim to use tinct

cooking methods.

Some

tinguished from one another by subtle differences

amount of

xiang kao), are

ods

is

liquid used.

fifty-six dis-

of these are variations on the larger themes of

and steaming (zheng),

stir-frying (chao), braising (shao), deep-frying (zha),

the

comes to

and other kinds of

Others,

more obviously

like pickling

in

dis-

cooking temperature or

(pao) and oven roasting {kao

distinct. This categorization of

cooking meth-

a fascinating illustration of the complexities of Sichuanese cuisine, but

is that you really don't have to know them all to learn to make home-cooked food. For those who are interested, a description of each of the fifty-six "official" cooking methods is provided on page 358. For those who want to run straight into the kitchen, the following is a brief intro-

the good thing delicious

duction to basic Sichuanese cooking techniques.

ORGANIZATION The preparation of

ingredients

Sichuanese cooking. This

cooked

dishes. Try to

is

the

is

key

make sure

that

all

enjoyable

to

when

particularly true

it

and

comes to

successful fast,

the ingredients are neatly

wok-

laid

out

before you start to cook, as you would a mise-en-place, so the cooking process can be

fluid

and relaxed. Sauces can be mixed

ginger, garlic,

in

small cups or bowls;

and scallions piled up separately on a

dients added to

little

chopped meat or poultry; potato

plate;

chopped

marinade ingre-

flour or cornstarch and

water mixed into a thickening paste. Raw chopped vegetables can be stacked up on their

final

serving dish, with a

of spices on the side. Any other

little pile

serving dishes should be near at hand. It's

rinsing

always good to have a

and drying the

stove, for the 40

oil

bamboo brush and paper towels nearby

wok between

dishes.

A

used for seasoning the wok,

for

heatproof container beside the

is

also useful.

COOKING METHODS

FOOD PREPARATION Marinating {ma

wei):

Marinating ingredients are often added to raw

fish,

meat, and poultry to heighten flavor and to dispel any lingering

raw

tastes.

^^

Marinades can also improve the texture of meats and veg-

etables by drawing out excess water and making

to other flavorings. all

common

Salt,

marinade

Shaoxing rice wine, ginger,

most

sometimes added where color

is

stir-fried dishes

(where the food

nade seasonings are added to the ingredients

Coating

jci **^

in

and Sichuan pepper,

raw

ingredients, are particularly effective in dispelling

meaty, or fishy tastes. Soy sauce well as flavor. For

them more receptive

scallions,

is

finely

required as

is

chopped), mari-

just before cooking.

starch or batter {ma

qian): Pastes

made from

starch

mixed with water or egg are used to keep food tender and to

"V

in

juices

and nutrients. They can be made from potato

starch, pea flour, or

wheat

flour

seal

corn-

flour,

bound together with water, egg

white, or whole beaten egg.These pastes are usually added after the marinade ingredients and just before cooking.

The type and thickness

of the paste

depends on the cooking method.

Passing through the preliminary stage

in

^^ poultry are coated

"Vffl

fairly

oil {guo you): This refers to deep-frying as a

cooking. Sometimes small pieces of meat, in

an egg white paste and deep-fried at a

low temperature: the purpose of

this

is

to separate the pieces

and cook them through while preserving their tenderness. Very hot to

fix

fish,

the shape of ingredients and to

make them

crisp

oil is

used

on the outside while

keeping them tender within.

^

Seasoning the

-^^

essential part of

wok wok

very simple process

{zhi guo): This

cooking

if

you use the

which doesn't have a nonstick surface.

If

classic

Chinese wok,

you don't season the

before you begin to cook, and between dishes, your food stick to

its

surface,

which means that some pieces

before the rest are cooked.

If

will

an

is

is

wok

likely

to

dry out and even burn

you do season the wok, you

will

never have

this

problem.

ing.

The method is as follows: heat the wok over a Add a few tablespoons of cooking oil and swirl

of the

wok

that will be

in

high flame until it

around over

contact with the food. When the

oil is

it is

all

smok-

the parts

smoking, pour 41

land of plenty

it

heatproof container. You can then add some fresh, cool cooking

off into a

heat

it

up to the desired temperature, and begin to cook.

series of dishes, give the

wok

If

you are making

bamboo brush

a quick rinse or scrub with a

oil,

a

after

each dish, and re-season the surface before you start the next one.

COOKING A,u

Frying-fragrant {chao

^

up

>^^

the time

all

ings

—

in

x/ong): This

Sichuanese cooking.

paste, dried chiles, or Sichuan in

pepper

involves stir-frying flavor-

It

and ginger, pickled

usually garlic

taken on their flavors and,

a basic technique that crops

is

chiles,

—

until

the case of pickled chiles or

Sichuan

bean

chili

the cooking

has

oil

bean paste, their

chili

Other ingredients are then added to the wok and tossed in the The most important thing is not to burn the spices and to trust

rich red color.

fragrant

oil.

tell you when they are ready. To avoid burning them, it's best to medium flame and to add the spices before the oil is smoking hot you can always heat it further if you need to make them sizzle to extract their fla-

your nose to

—

use a

vors.

If

the

oil

seems to be overheating,

just hold the

for a few seconds, stirring constantly, until

^ stages,

has cooled

down

spices

in

the cooking

oil

slightly.

(see above).

Other foods are then added

depending on the time they need to cook. Sauces and seasonings are

added during the cooking process.

If

you are

stir-frying

meat,

you must always begin by seasoning the wok, or the food frying, the heating

constantly.

wok

the flame

Stir-frying (chao): Stir-frying usually begins by frying-fragrant a few

tt^^lr

in

it

wok away from

A wok

and turn

it

must be

swift and even, so

fish,

or poultry,

will stick. In stir-

you must keep the food moving

scoop can be used to scrape the food from the base of the

over repeatedly. Sichuanese chefs tend to use

the food around, and they also toss the

wok

a ladle to

push

to dramatic effect.

/rt

Thickening sauces

^ y^

white starch derived from various dried beans, potatoes, or corn.

The

starch

{gou qian): Chinese sauces are thickened with

becomes transparent and glossy when cooked.

It is

this

starch that gives Chinese dishes their typical luster.The starch paste is

added

at the

end of the cooking process, and

few seconds. Sichuanese restaurant kitchens starch-and-water paste

42

sitting

all

it

thickens the sauce

in just

a

have a bowlful of ready-mixed

by the side of the stove to be used as needed.

COOKING METHODS

Always err on the side of caution when adding

more

little

if

you need

but you can't take

to,

dish like the gluey, gelatinous sauce that

it

this paste. You

can always add a

away. (Nothing ruins a Chinese

the result of excessive starch.)

is

SICHUAN'S DISTINCTIVE LOCAL COOKING METHODS Part of the character of Sichuanese cuisine eral

.

lies in its

widespread use of sev-

cooking methods that are peculiar to the region. They are as follows:

t^

xiao chao

("small-frying"): This

and starch-coated meat

f^jT

briskly placing in the

hot

in

method oil

initial

the pieces separate, then

until

secondary vegetable ingredients, adding the

more before

sauce, and just tossing once or twice

are no

involves frying marinated

—

stages of cooking

it's

done quickly

all

hot flame. Examples include "fish-fragrant" pork

in

slivers

There

serving.

a single

wok

over a

and Gong Bao (Kung

Pao) chicken with peanuts.

jr. •

/2m

gan bian

("dry-frying"):

constantly

in

a

wok

slightly dried

is

Food cut

with very

into slivers or strips

little oil,

stirred

is

over a medium flame,

until

it

out and beautifully fragrant. Seasonings are added

toward the end of the cooking process, often with

a

little

extra

Examples: dry-fried bitter melon, dry-fried eggplants, dry-fried beef

oil.

slivers,

dry-fried green beans.

^

gan shao

y^l

^^^^^^ flame

until

fish

with pork

in

is

simmered with

fish

and

flavorings over a

the liquid has been totally absorbed or reduced

to a dense sauce. Starch dry-braised

method, used mainly for

("dry-braising"): In this

seafood, the main ingredient

is

never added as a thickener. Example:

spicy sauce.

chang shao ("homestyle

braising"): This

method

begins by

^^

jia

^^^

frying a

1^*

grant, and then adding stock and other ingredients. Everything

^^

/^^

little chili

bean paste

simmered gently over rich

a

until

low flame

the cooking

until

is

red and frais

the food has absorbed the

"homestyle" flavors of the sauce. The

with starch before serving. Examples:

oil

stir-

liquid

fish

is

usually thickened

braised

in

chili

bean

sauce, wild duck braised with konnyaku "bean curd."

43

land of plenty

^*tf

^ food

is

du:

A

fish

and bean curd dishes.

very traditional Sichuanese cooking method used mainly for

simmered gently

in

a small

water content and absorbed the

A

it

has lost

Its

own

pock-marked

type of frying that begins by sizzling dried chiles and

Sichuan pepper

44

of liquid until

fu).

in

a

little oil until

then tossing other ingredients, usually oil.

similar to conventional braising: the

flavors of the sauce. Example:

Mother Chen's bean curd {ma po dou qiang:

It is

amount

Example: spicy cucumber salad.

the

oil is

fragrant and spicy, and

crisp, juicy vegetables, in

the flavored

equipment

One

most impressive

of the

of the equipment used

things about Sichuanese cooking

most

in

kitchens.

A

all

most cooking can be done with

you need for most food

useful

—

a wire strainer, a perforated

Some

equivalent.

and kitchen

recipes

spoon or

A

call

wok, a

a

few other tools are

ladle, a rolling pin

or two

much simpler and more compact than

its

—but

Western

for the use of ordinary saucepans, frying pans,

others for less

utensils,

are introduced

is

more than

little

steamer, a rice cooker, a pair of chopsticks, and a ladle.

the whole paraphernalia

the simplicity

cleaver, a vy^ooden cutting board,

and a few bowls or plates to hold ingredients are preparations; and

is

common

meat hooks (these

utensils like

the recipes that require them). You can make Sichuanese

in

food without any special equipment, using ordinary kitchen knives and pots

and pans, but the traditional Chinese tools are wonderful to use. Here are the utensils

I

find

it

hard to

live

without.

FOOD PREPARATION CLEAVER r*.

-^T

77

(cai dao)

The one

essential knife in a

matches

its versatility,

will find

you rarely want to use anything

slicing,

Chinese kitchen

is

the cleaver. Nothing

and once you become accustomed to else.

It

mincing, chopping, peeling, crushing, mashing, gutting

boning poultry, and even carrying food around. Almost

done with an ordinary cleaver useful also to have a

{cai dao),

which has a

chopper {kan dao or zhan

all

you

it,

can be used for fish,

these jobs can be

but

thin, light blade,

it's

dao), a heavier cleaver with a

thicker blade, for cutting poultry and spare ribs on the bone. Cleavers can be

made after,

of carbon steel or stainless steel: the former require a

but are

much

can buy cleavers

in

easier to sharpen, and

I

prefer

Chinese supermarkets and,

them

little

looking

for this reason.

increasingly, in Asian

You

cooking

sections of department stores and kitchenware shops. Sichuanese cooks

like

45

land of plenty

to use handnnade local knives, which have slightly rounded blades and handles.

The best are

Sichuan that

is

famous for

also

be those made

said to

Dazu, a town

in

wooden

in

eastern

Buddhist carvings.

its

Looking after your knife It's

important to keep the cleaver blade sharp.The best way

stone on hand and to use

regularly. Whetstones

it

is

to keep a whet-

can usually be bought along

with your cleaver. To sharpen the knife, wet the stone under the tap and then

secure

it,

coarser side up, on a

kitchen towel to stop right

it

work

surface

—

usually place

I

from moving around. Hold the

hand and the end of the blade

you onto the whetstone at

in

your

it

on a damp

knife handle in

30 degrees), and rub

a sharp angle (about

your

the blade facing away from

left, lay

it

back-

wards and forwards, moving the blade from time to time to ensure an even sharpening.

Then turn the

knife

and repeat, but with the blade

angle, nearly parallel to the stone.

When

the knife

is

turn the whetstone and use the finer-grained side to bring edge. Keep moistening the stone as you go along.

Try to keep the knife cause accidents

rinse

and dry

keep

it

in

a place

where

— most Sichuanese keep

the kitchen wall. it

If

you have a carbon

immediately after use and smear

it

with a

The

T^

it:

traditional Sichuanese cutting

board

years. In restaurant kitchens these can be

kitchens a section of trunk 12 inches is

little

cooking

is

round

a thick,

oil,

which

to

is

gradually eroded, so

wood

it's

wood

like

Chinese olive {gan

Chinese honey

diameter and about 4 will

use a

before rinsing and dry-

important to rotate

locust (zoo jiao stiu),

Ian shu), but birch, willow,

many

enormous, but for home

in

it

time to time to keep the surface even. The best boards are made of

from tight-

gingko {bai guo shu), or

and several other types can also

be used. Ordinary cutting boards can, of course, be used instead.

46

oil

slab of

lasts for

ample. After an intense session of chopping, the cook

thus the board

grained

on

you should make sure you

{cai dun)

cleaver blade to scrape clean the surface of the ing

knife

theirs in a small knife rack hanging

steel knife,

tree trunk, treated with salt and vegetable

inches high

to a keener

won't get banged and won't

it

^ '^^

it

you sharpen your

If

rusting.

CUTTING BOARD

^L

sharper

process won't take long.

regularly, the

from

at a

becoming sharp, you can

EQUIPMENT

Bowls and dishes It's

always useful to have a selection of

little

bowls, plates, and dipping dishes

on hand for the mixing of sauces, the marinating of meats, and the arrange-

ment of prepared seasonings

like

chopped

garlic

and ginger.

COOKING WOK

(chao guo)

^°'^ ^^^ been used

"''^^

J> It*

^/

at least

sand years and remains an essential cooking vessel. frying because

easy

its

movement

used for deep-frying, are

Chinese cooking for

in

ideal for stir-

curved base allows for even heating and for the

of food around the hot metal surface; but

boiling, steaming,

made from crude or

It is

two thou-

in size

is

also

and dry-roasting. Most Chinese woks

cast iron, which

to prevent rusting. They vary

it

cooks superbly but must be seasoned

from about 12 inches

in

diameter for an

home wok, to more than 36 inches in the kitchens of monasteries and other institutions. Some have one long handle, which makes for easy tossing, but the most common in Sichuan are those with two small handles, which must be held with a heatproof mitt but are more stable a boon when boiling or deep-frying. You can also buy flat-bottomed woks, which work well on elec-

all-purpose

—

stoves but are less versatile than the traditional kind, and nonstick woks,

tric

which may be convenient but lack the wonderful patina of the seasoned iron

wok. These days you can buy woks ally

much

less

in

many

expensive (and just as good)

TO SEASON A NEW

kitchen stores, but they are generin

Chinese supermarkets.

WOK

woks must be seasoned before use. To season a new wok, scour off any it a good scrub all over, and then heat it over a high flame. When it is hot, carefully smear it all over with a wad of paper towels soaked in cooking oil. Repeat this procedure twice more with fresh paper and oil. When the Iron

rust, give

wok

has cooled down, wipe

TAKING CARE OF THE

it

or rinse

it

and dry

it

thoroughly.

WOK

After cooking, a quick rinse with water and a gentle scrub with a usually sufficient to clean the

wok.

If

you do have to scrub

the surface of the metal, you must season

it

it

wok

brush

is

hard and expose

again exactly as described

above

47

land of plenty

before you store

it. If

you use the

wok

for boiling or steaming, re-seasoning

also

needed to restore the surface. Don't worry

rusty

—

you need to do to revive

all

soning process.

WOK Wok in

LID lids

is

is

vital

dishes.

bought

still

adhere to

^^

one

it.

The advantage

of using a

allows you to scrub the

LADLE

Most Sichuanese cooking.

wok between

dish and are ready to begin another, just rinse

a cold tap, using the brush to scrub

WOK SCOOP OR "*' igf

are used for cleaning the

They consist of bundles of bamboo splints and can be in most shops selling Asian cookware.When you have fin-

ished cooking

wok under it

A wok

wok for steaming, boiling, and deep-frying, and it wok with a curved base on an electric stove. built-in wok stands.

Bamboo wok brushes

the

that

they are not used

you wish to use a

(zhu shua)

is

itself:

to stabilize the if

WOK BRUSH

^ij

wok

needed for steaming and sometimes for simmering.

stoves have

I

is

little

scour the surface and repeat the sea-

it is

are usually bought separately from the

Some modern

'

gets a

AND WOK STAND

necessary

^».

wok

the

not necessary to clean the underside of the wok.

It is

frying but are

stand

if

It is

wok

bamboo

while

away any

bits of

food that

rather than a plastic brush

it is still

very hot.

(guo chan, piao zi)

chefs use a ladle rather than a

used to

stir

wok scoop

food around the wok, to

ladle

in

their

stock into

sauces, to ladle food into serving bowls, and also to measure out

ingredients and mix up last-minute sauces.

wok scoops

instead

—they are good

bottom of the wok, although not

PERFORATED LADLE

A

(lou piao) is

useful for lifting dumplings

is

ladles sold with

spoon

perforated by

and noo-

water and can also be used for

deep-fried foods out of the cooking a large, shallow

48

for stirring ingredients and scraping the

perforated spoon or ladle

handle, which

cooks tend to use

as versatile as the ladle.

dles out of their cooking

^]^

Home

(8 to

many

oil.

lifting

Many Sichuanese cooks use

12 inches in diameter) with a short

quite large holes, but the perforated

other Asian cooking equipment can also be used.

EQUIPMENT

A WIRE MESH STRAINER WITH A

BAMBOO HANDLE

/rj(r

These strainers can be purchased

^V

nese supermarkets. They are used for of the cooking

CHOPSTICKS

{kuai

lifting

Chi-

and for draining them.

oil

zi)

T:^

shops, are used to

move food around

the

Chinese cookware

wok

and to separate

pieces of food while deep-frying. Ordinary chopsticks are used for

,^-.

tasting

and for mixing.

STEAMER, TRIVET

^

(zheng long)

Steaming has been an important cooking method

^^t^

antiquity. In

contemporary Sichuan,

^s

cooking and

in

It

the preparation of

all

it

a

you

just place the

the

lid,

food

in

a

in

bamboo steamers sold very is much smaller than

the steamer

If

on a

trivet (which can usually

directly

sit

If

in

I

(

in

more complex

be bought

wok

inexpensively

the wok, you

in

part, close

and one or more of in

Chinese supermar-

may need to stand

it

the same store), but larger steam-

the wok. Don't forget that you can stack up several

bamboo steamers

COOKER

»^ ^^

country

an ordinary three-part metal steamer:

bowl or on a plate on the perforated

kets.

layers of the

in

kinds of dumplings and snacks.

and steam. Alternatively, you can use the

ers can just

China since

in

widely used

sequence of cooking methods used

Chinese food can be cooked

those round

is

can also be used to cook rice or to reheat precooked foods, and

sometimes part of

recipes.

if

you have a

lot of

food to steam.

dion fan guo)

could have only one

modern gadget

in

my

kitchen,

it

would

have to be an electric rice cooker. These wonderful machines not

/4^^

only

make

perfect rice every time, but they also keep

some make

warm

until

also be used to steam other foods, and

rice porridges

and stews. The great advantage of an

it.

automatic rice cooker

on the other dishes

rice drying

it

They can

you plan to eat

pletely

in

deep-fried foods out

Plain long-handled chopsticks, easily available in

RICE

//)

and inexpensively

easily

^}*

it is

(zhao

as

is

that

it

allows you to concentrate

com-

you cook, without having to worry about the

out or sticking to the bottom of the pan. The

rice

and water can

be measured out long before the meal, and you need only push the button

when you want the machine

to start steaming.

49

land of plenty

OTHER BITS AND PIECES ROLLING PINS

(gan mian zhang)

JA^

These are needed for some dumpling and pastry

^^'

Sichuanese use

v5?

come

Li

thickness ones for flatbreads, and thicker pins for rolling out noodle

^^

pastry.

fairly thin rolling pins

number

a

in

Ordinary

BAMBOO BASKETS

rolling pins

{shao

that

of sizes: thin ones for

The taper at either end. They dumpling skins, mediumdishes.

can be used instead.

ji)

Most Sichuanese kitchens are equipped with an assortment of

Aete

™

shal-

low bamboo baskets, round or horseshoe-shaped. They are wonderfully versatile: they can be used as colanders, storage baskets for

amounts of herbs

fresh vegetables, and trays for sun-drying small

or spices. Dusted with

they can be

flour,

filled

and ready for the stove. When they are not

in

with dumplings, just wrapped

up

use, they are simply stacked

or hung on the walls. These baskets are woven on a small scale by specialized craftsmen and then hawked around the markets, usually strung up on a

wooden frame

or

beautiful patterns. Metal

same

plastic

Some

woven with colanders and ordinary trays can do the

attached to a bicycle.

of the baskets are

woven bamboo baskets are lovely to use and can now be the Asian food sections of some cookware stores.

job, but

bought

in

A NOTE ON STOVES A

gas stove

trol

is

Chinese cooking because

ideal for

it

gives

base of the traditional rounded wok. a traditional in this

case

wok it's

with a

wok

If

you have an

you immediate con-

lick nicely

around the

electric stove,

you can use

over the temperature and because the gas flames

stand, but the heating will be very inefficient, so

best to use a flat-bottomed wok. Whatever type of stove you

hood to draw away the

have, an effective

smells of frying

is

extremely

Sichuanese urban kitchens are usually equipped with gas stoves, but countryside and

in

many

clay-built ranges with

above the flaming

old houses people rely

on

sits

Only the most modern homes have exhaust

50

the

directly fans,

most Sichuanese stoves are placed in a well-ventilated outer room or off from the main kitchen.

cony areas that are walled

in

coal-fired stoves, great

rounded holes to take the wok, which

coals.

useful.

so

in bal-

EQUIPMENT

SERVING CHINESE FOOD For simple meals at home,

all

you need are a few

rice

bowls and pairs of

chopsticks, along with serving dishes for the food. Everyone present can use their chopsticks to help themselves

of the table, and the

final

from the communal dishes

soup can be sipped

directly

For a more formal setting, each rice bowl

is

at the center

from the bowl.

placed on a

little

plate,

which

can be used to take food from the serving dishes or to hold bones and other scraps. China

spoons can also be provided for soups and porridgy dishes.

Chopstick stands are optional, used only

in

fancier restaurants. Candlelit din-

ners are not part of Sichuanese eating culture thing standing

in

—

partly

no doubt because any-

the center of the table would obstruct access to the food.

SERVING DISHES Stews and soups cooked table

in

in

earthenware pots are usually brought to the

the cooking pot, but most other dishes are turned out onto serving

plates. You don't really

need any special serving dishes: ordinary dinner plates

can be used for most stir-fried dishes, smaller breakfast plates for cold dishes, and a else.

A

large,

random

selection of serving bowls and dishes for everything

deep serving bowl

is

a must,

however,

if

you want to make

soups and bring them to the table Chinese-style. Sichuanese cooks would expect to use the following dishes (they can

be bought

all

in

Chinese cook-

ware shops).

Small round plates: For cold

dishes and the raw ingredients destined for

the Sichuan hotpot.

Medium-sized round

plates: For wok-cooked dishes where the food

is

cut

into small pieces.

Large, deep round plates: For centerpieces and exotica

like

whole chickens or ducks

dried seafood.

Oval plates of various whole

like

sizes: For

wok-cooked

dishes, deep-fried foods, and

fish.

SI

land of plenty

Large bowls of various

sizes: For stews and dishes that

come

with lots of

sauce, and for soups.

Tiny dipping dishes: For

dips of spices, sauces, and relishes, and also for

Sichuanese pickled vegetables.

Lacquered hors d'oeuvre box containing several small dishes: Used for

little

Wine

appetizers.

cups: Tiny

little

china cups without handles that are used for quaffing

strong Sichuanese liquor.

52

the Sichuanese pantry

The pages will

that follow describe almost

need to make the recipes

dients are described

in

in this

all

the dried goods and flavorings you

book. (A few of the more unusual ingre-

the introductions to the recipes that use them.)

not, however, be daunted by the length of the

ingredients will be

•

soy sauce

•

Sichuan

•

dried chiles

(light

chili

enough to make most

list.

The

following short

Do

list

of

dishes.

and dark)

bean paste

•

whole Sichuan pepper

•

fermented black beans

•

Chinkiang or black Chinese vinegar

•

sesame

oil

•

Shaoxing rice wine or medium-dry sherry

•

a

few spices

(cassia

bark and star anise

•

potato flour or cornstarch

•

fresh ginger, garlic, and scallions

•

salt,

will

do to

pepper, and white sugar (which you are

start with)

likely

to have

in

your kitchen

anyway)

Useful extras: pickled etable, pickled

chili

paste,

sweet bean paste, Tianjin preserved veg-

mustard greens, dried mushrooms, dried cloud ears, brown

sugar.

INGREDIENTS Chinese speakers may notice that some of the Chinese names given below are unfamiliar:

that

I

some,

like

the

name

for chiles, hai jiao, are Sichuanese dialect terms

couldn't resist.

53

land of plenty

FERMENTED BLACK BEANS

^

These Intensely

j^

soybeans

^h

in

in

(dou

tasty

fairly

water, steaming them, and then leaving

dry but dark and

method

This

beans are made by soaking dried yellow

months.

a sealed container for several

added, with perhaps a is

chi)

little

oily,

little

chile

them to ferment

wine, and ginger are

Salt,

and other spices. The

of fermentation has been used

in

Sichuanese

product

China for nearly twenty-five hun-

dred years, since the time of Confucius himself.The beans are used, tities, in

final

with a flavor reminiscent of top quality soy sauce.

stir-fried, braised,

and steamed dishes, as well as

small quan-

in

in

sauces and

relishes.The finest Sichuanese black beans, which are plump,glossy,and extremely

come from

tasty,

preserved

in

the county of Yongchuan. Buy the dry beans rather than those

brine

—they

are available

in

most Chinese supermarkets.

Ch/7es

DRIED CHILES

^r

(gan hai jiao)

Sun-dried chiles are indispensable eral

•

•^/^

varieties

Sichuanese

capital,

heaven" chile {chao

.

^^^

is

in

many Sichuanese

in

the

common

Chengdu, the most tian jiao), a short,

named because the

A

chiles

grow

chiles

^k^

ized to a

wok

ent

54

in

Chongqing and

in

substituting tiny Thai

Sichuanese quantities. Sun-dried chiles are usually snipped

many seeds discarded

GROUND CHILES {hai jiao mian) A coarse powder made ^^

\^7

In

powder or

with a touch of

powder

is

poultry.

It is

used both

many Sichuanese

The

—

in

or cut

chiles, usually

the "facing-

chiles can be directly pulver-

for best results

oil until

in half

if

as possible.

from sun-dried

variety, with their seeds.

is

from Yunnan, Henan, and

chiles

which can be deadly hot and quite unpalatable

into slivers before use, and as

heaven"

the "facing-

grow upward, hence

bunches of about seven.

in

Sichuan, thinner, pointier, hotter

<-^

is

the

similar variety, the "seven-star" chile {qi xing jiao),

chiles (about an inch long), in

type

In

plump, lustrously red chile that

Guizhou provinces are often preferred. Be cautious used

dishes. Sev-

markets.

region's

moderately hot and very fragrant (the

their name).

eastern

found

be

can

—

first

toasted gently

they are crisp and fragrant. The

in

a

chili

cooking and as a dip for cooked meats and

also the base for

cold dishes.

If

making

chili oil,

an essential ingredi-

you can't use Sichuanese ground

chiles,

THE SICHUANESE PANTRY

paprika

is

or cooking ingredient because

a possible substitute as a dip

too hot. As for

Sichuanese chiles impart a ruby-red color that

real

CHILI OIL (hong

The

>

you)

chili

hot.

commonly

oil

sold

Chinese supermarkets usually has

in

make my own,

prefer to

I

prepare and keeps for ages

reduce the quantities suggested

the recipes

in

—

Sichuan-style

if

you use store-bought

{hong you)

The common Sichuanese name

hong you, "red

it is

ground

which

chiles,

as they heat

it,

pensable ingredient

(page 141), cold pork

condiment

restaurants,

Some cooks add

jar.

a piece of

in

red-oil sauce (page 140), in

oil

is

because at

its

onto coarsely

crushed ginger to the

used along with

oil

the indis-

cold sauces: see the recipes

It is

restaurants. In

its

is

hot-and-numbing chicken

hot and garlicky sauce (page 146).

many noodle and dumpling

chili

oil

chile flakes. Chili oil

many famous Sichuanese

in

in

oil,"

made by pouring hot

and a star anise or two to the

for chicken chunks

a

chili oil is

It is

chili oil.

up fragrantly before they settle into a layer of flakes

fizz

bottom of the

at the

for

an astonishing ruby red.

quick and easy to

it's

shady place. You may wish to

a cool,

in

often excessively

is

RECIPE FOR CHILI OIL best

not

incomparable.

is

dried shrimps and other ingredients added and

v**"^

it's

any ground or flaked dried chile can be used, but the

chill oil,

flakes,

slices

also offered as

most homes and

but upscale restaurants,

which tend to refine the tastes and textures of hearty peasant cooking, often use the chile,

oil

alone for a smoother

effect. You

but the Sichuanese particularly

{chao tian jiao) because

The proportions

it

like

can

make

chili oil

yields a very fragrant oil that

of chiles and

oil

with any kind of

to use the "facing-heaven" variety is

not aggressively hot.

the following recipe are classically

in

Sichuanese, but can be varied according to taste.

The

following recipe makes about a pint of

preserving jar flakes

if

you

is

like.

big If

enough to take

You can add a

you can only get whole

and then fry them with their seeds grant.

it.

in

chili oil,

a

They can then be crushed with

chiles,

little oil

a

so be sure your glass

star anise to the chile

you must snip them

until

in half

they are crisp and fra-

mortar and

pestle,

or

in

a

food

processor. Take great care not to burn them. It's

you

worth using an

risk

oil

thermometer

burning the chiles, and

if it's

for this recipe

—

if

the

oil is

too cool you won't extract their

too hot full fra-

55

land of plenty

grance.

by any chance you wish to use fresh

If

adding the 1/2

cup

at a slightly hotter temperature,

oil

chile flakes or

coarsely ground

1

with

fresh ginger, with peel,

crushed

peanut or corn

oil

Put the chile flakes into a glass preserving jar

2 Heat the

3

with the ginger

oil,

Remove from the

if

used, over a high flame until smoking hot.

heat, discard the ginger,

and allow to cool for about 10

minutes, to 225-250°F. Pour onto the chiles, to cool

in

shady place. The

a

but the chile flakes immediately, but

PICKLED CHILES Red

^tt

its

used

in

'of^S'

fTf^ild,

flavor

will fizz

cools.

oil

and fragrance

many Sichuanese

will

"two golden flavor,

dishes.

shan

(ye

jiao)

with a teasing hotness, and

it

it

are also popular

is

in

If

I

will

full

pickled

crimson color and a subtle frequently used chili

in

a finely

paste, Sambal Oeiek,

beware of substituting the

Chinese supermarkets, which are

release their

The

the

Tiny

tiny

and viciously

a Sichuanese dish, but

if

you cut

fieriness and overwhelm the other ingredi-

can't use Sichuanese pickled chiles, I'm inclined to substitute finely

sliced red bell

pepper with a

little

look authentic and provides a suitable substitute will ling ingredients.

56

chiles,

—they can be used whole to add color to

ents.

is

chile {er jin t;oo).

has a beautiful color and a suitable

degree of hotness. For the whole or sliced pickled Thai variety sold

and spices are

The most important type

strips" chile has an intense

a fine substitute for this puree, as

them up they

first,

almost

oil

improve after a couple of days.

minced or pureed form. The hot Indonesian pickled

hot

and swirl around at

You can use the

horn-shaped "two golden strips"

green mountain chiles

>

the

once or twice, and leave

(pao hai jiao)

'/&' I

and chiles

oil

will settle as

stir

chiles pickled in a solution of salt, sugar, wine,

^^ ^^^

is

cookbooks recommend

optional: a small piece of

chiles,

seeds 2 cups

chiles,

about 300°F.

list

makes the

dish

of that gentle pickled-chile hotness.

Any

pickled chile puree, which

little

water and

salt

rather than vinegar as the main pick-

THE SICHUANESE PANTRY

CHILI

BEAN PASTE

^

A

{dou ban Jiang)

fermented paste made from fresh "two golden strips"

-***

chiles

and fava beans that

«S[

lends

its

is

indispensable

in

(er jin tiao)

Sichuanese cooking.

It

and deep red color to many hearty

rich, delicious taste

The most famous version comes from the town of Chengdu, where it is available in several stages \^ of maturity. The freshest paste is bright red and the most mature a dark purple, although it's most often used when it is a deep maroon-red. Sev-

w^

local dishes.

Pixian, just outside

brands are sold under a variety of names. Including

eral

bean paste, toban orange

in

djan,

and toban

jhan.

bean sauce,

chili

chili

They tend to be fresher and more

color than the best Pixian paste, but

still

have a delicious

flavor. Just

make sure they are made with the authentic fava beans rather than soybeans. The saltiness and chile-hotness varies from brand to brand, and you may have to adjust the amount of salt you add to read the

list

of ingredients to

your dishes accordingly.

CHINESE COOKING WINES ^^*l

Mild, ing

'

71^

(//OOJ/U)

amber-colored cooking wines, usually known simply as "cook-

wine"

(liao jiu),are

widely used

marinades and

dishes

in stir-fried

to enhance the flavor of the main ingredients. Shaoxing rice wine from eastern Zhejiang province, which

highly regarded, although Sichuanese tutes.

in

14.5 percent alcohol,

is

cooks often use

locally

is

the most

produced

Shaoxing has been a center of wine production since about the

substi-

fifth

cen-

B.C. and is known poetically as the City of Yellow Wine (huang jiu cheng). The best Shaoxing rice wine is made from glutinous rice and should be drunk warm, like sake. A few Shaoxing wines are readily available in Chinese super-

tury

markets, and they have been used

in

testing

all

the recipes

in this

book.

Some

Chinese recipe writers recommend using medium-dry sherry as a substitute. Stronger vodka-like wines {qu occasionally, but rarely, used

in

an indispensable ingredient of Mijiu (rice wine) sold in

jiu,

bai jiu)

cooking.

A

homemade

made from

slug of

various grains are

Chinese vodka

pickled vegetables.

Chinese grocery stores works

fine;

is,

however,

The Kwangtung ordinary vodka

could also be used as a substitute.

CHINESE SCALLIONS

^

Chinese

'^^^

scallions,

(COng)

scallions are very similar in

appearance and flavor to Western

but they never develop onion bulbs; instead they just keep

57

land of plenty

growing longer. Most Chinese sources say they are native to

been cultivated

dishes. The quantities given in this

cooked

kinds of

all

China for more than three thousand years. Baby green onions

used raw as a garnish; older onions {da cong) are used

{xiao cong) are

and

in

of decent-sized scallions available will

COOKING OILS

{cai you)

^

Rapeseed

TT^

Sichuanese cooking rants

color (corn

oil {cai you),

oil

the West:

and

and peanut

Peanut or corn at the

used

are well regarded). Pork lard

oil

expense of more in

Coconut

intriguing flavors.

some

pastry dishes.

that don't specifically

CORIANDER LEAVES

restau-

(xiong cai

is

in

in stir-

oil is

the testing of of animal

in

the

used occasion-

most

fats in

a

good

have used peanut

I

demand the use or yan

often used

is

oil,

all

cases, substi-

which

is

the recipes

fats.

sui)

^

Coriander

^g'

mon

jsL

taste are used to improve flavors and to cut the oiliness of heavy

use

meat or

(also in

known

as cilantro)

Sichuanese cooking.

fish dishes.

soups and other dishes, and eaten as a salad. Coriander

The herb

its is

is

is

Its

the only fresh herb

com-

in

strong fragrance and fresh

also used as a colorful garnish for

tender stems and leaves can be

stir-fried

or

native to the shores of the Mediterranean, but

way into China during the Han Dynasty (around the time now grown all over the country.

found It is

the traditional

is

drippings are used

a delicious luxury,

fat,

pale and neutral, and stable at high temperatures,

book

color,

most homes and

can be used as a substitute for animal

oil

tute for the use of lard

in this

in

some sweetmeats, and beef

preparation of Sichuan hotpot. Chicken

though

find the long

quantities accordingly.

still

is

book assume the use

you do manage to

which has a deep amber

oil

marinades

refined vegetable oils because of their lightness and lack of

fried dishes, as well as in

ally.

if

in

the region. Expensive restaurants do, however, increasingly

in

more

use

in

want to reduce the

Asian onions, you

*4|

Siberia, but they have

its

of Christ).

Dried mushrooms

WOOD

EAR MUSHROOMS

Wood

ear

(mu'er)

mushrooms have

an intriguing texture, simultaneously

slithery and crunchy, but very

wok-cooked

dishes.

little flavor.

They are used

Avoid the fungus sold as "wood ear"

in

nese supermarkets, which tends to be thick and coarse: much better 58

many

in

is

Chi-

the

THE SICHUANESE PANTRY

variety sold as "cloud ears" or "black fungus," which

used

in

nothing.

comes

Sichuan. This fungus

They must be soaked

use.They keep

^ J|d^

in

similar to the type

which weigh almost

dry place.

{xiang gu)

These dried mushrooms, known tivated

is

pieces,

very hot water for 15-20 minutes before

in

indefinitely in a cool,

FRAGRANT MUSHROOMS Jft

in small, frilly

in

Japan as shiitake, have been cul-

China for about a thousand years. They have an intense,

delicious flavor and fragrance.

There are several

different varieties:

the best are those with pale crisscross fissures over their caps.

These mushrooms must be soaked

hot water for about

in

brown hour

half an

before use, and their tasty soaking water can be added to soups and sauces.

They keep

indefinitely in a cool,

BAMBOO

PITH

;Ut»

} tj|»

FUNGUS

dry place.

(zhu SUn)

This unusual fungus, a Sichuan specialty, has a marvelous texture

and a

beautiful, lacy

but

more

is

appearance.

often seen

It

can be used

rich chicken soups.

in

in stir-fried

It is

dishes,

available in

some

Chinese supermarkets, usually under the name "bamboo fungus,"

and must be soaked

SILVER EAR

AB»

^^

Jh^

hot water for about

in

FUNGUS

wood

{bai er zi), this delicate

fungus

ear fungus (bai mu'er) or white ear

After a good soaking,

waves with

5 minutes before use.

(y'm'er)

^'^° known as white

frills.

1

a texture that

is

is

sold dried into pale yellow, papery

it

expands into nearly transparent

both crunchy and gelatinous. Wild

ver ear fungus has long been considered a delicacy, prized for

texture and nutritional benefits.

sweet soups that round

^ 't

Bean curd

T

*

^K ^» 3>^

{dou

in all its

lent of cheese.

product, with

compared to

If

its

Sichuanese cooking,

it is

sil-

intriguing

mainly used

in

the

banquet or a feast of snacks.

off a

FERMENTED BEAN CURD

In

its

fu ru)

forms

this

is

is

often described as the Chinese equiva-

then

so,

this intensely flavored

bean curd

strong, salty taste and heady fragrance, can be

ripe blue cheese.

The two main types are "red"

fer-

mented bean curd and "white" fermented bean curd, although

there are countless variations.

One

chunks of bean curd packed into a

popular Sichuanese variety consists of

jar

with

chili

bean paste, Sichuan pepper, 59

land of plenty

vegetable

and spices. Fermented bean curd can be eaten as a

oil,

relish

great with steamed rice and leftover bits and pieces of food), and

(it's

also

it's

added to some marinades.

FERMENTED GLUTINOUS RICE WINE at

home,

'^•^

pulpy glutinous rice grains

*w

rich,

sweet, mellow

tastes of is

made

Traditionally

rrjH

meat and

in

because

it

poultry, and

it is

commonly used

rice

zui)

its

flavor

marinades.

in

It

and "fragrant wine

wine can be used

has similar culinary functions, although

has a

It

thought to dispel the raw

is

"drunken" {zao

zao wei) dishes. Shaoxing

condiment consists of

their clear, fermented juices.

Lao zoo

flavor.

also the main flavoring in so-called

flavor" {xiang

{lao ZOO)

this alcoholic

is

as a substitute

quite different.

RECIPE FOR FERMENTED GLUTINOUS RICE WINE {lao zao) This sweet, boozy liquid consists of cooked glutinous rice, which

earthenware until

it

jar

some wine

with

yeast and

warm

left in a

is

sealed Into an

place for a few days

ferments. The clear wine juices can be used with or without the

pulpy rice sediment.

In

glazed clay pots, but

the markets of Sichuan, lao zao

it's

a jar with a tight-fitting

also extremely easy to

lid

make

and one of the wine yeast

Chinese and Vietnamese food shops.

When

ture can be transferred to the refrigerator, following recipe makes about

I

1/2

is

often sold

at

soft,

enormous,

in

home. All you need

balls that

are sold

in

is

some

the rice has fermented, the mix-

where

it

will

keep for months. The

cups of lao zao, 1/2 cup of which

is

juices.

NOTE Lao zao

is

dish that

a key ingredient in lao is

traditionally offered to

very easy to make: just mix a

water to

zao

yield a

little

ji

dan, a favorite Sichuanese breakfast

women who

good dough; break

off marble-size pieces of

drop them into boiling water to cook. break

in

an egg for each person and

have just given birth.

let

When

dough and

they are cooked through,

them poach

gently.

When

the eggs

are done, season the liquid with sugar to taste, stirring to dissolve (the uid should be fairly sweet). Just before serving, add a couple of

spoonfuls of lao zao, enough to give the liquid a mellow, boozy

liq-

generous

flavor.

Serve

each person with an egg, a few dumplings, and plenty of the sweet soup.

60

It's

glutinous rice flour with enough cold

THE SICHUANESE PANTRY

I

1/4

cup long grain glutinous

I

rice

1

Rinse the rice

in

2 Place the rice

steamer with

in a

cooked, Then turn

When

the rice

is

Then put the

rice

Do

not

lid tightly.

ball

(about

1/2

cold water until the water runs clear.

it

I

cups of water and steam

1/2

onto a large plate and spread

wine yeast to a coarse powder with 3

wine yeast ounce)

a

mortar and

it

until just

out to cool. Crush the

pestle.

lukewarm, scatter over the crushed yeast and mix mixture into a fill

jar,

it

in.

preferably earthenware, and close the

the jar completely

—you must

leave a gap of a couple

of inches above the rice.

4

Wrap

the jar

in

a thick cloth and leave

place. The flavor will continue to

which you can transfer the

FIVE-SPICE

j»

POWDER

to ferment for 3 days

in

a

warm after

jar to the refrigerator.

{wu xiang fen)

powder

Five-spice

it

mellow for another couple of weeks,

is

made by

grinding several spices together

'-*^

not necessarily

^»-

anise, cassia bark, Sichuan pepper,

five. It usually

cloves, and licorice root are

includes a few of the following: star

and fennel seeds. Dried ginger,

sometimes added.

m^ "FRAGRANT THINGS"

(xiang Hao)

^

whole collection of spices that are used

5JUl»

matic stewed meats, Sichuan hotpot, and a

"Fragrant things"

is

the phrase

commonly used in

to describe a

the preparation of aro-

number of slow-cooked

hot and cold dishes. The exact combination of spices used tends to vary with aval lability. The most essential are as follows:

CASSIA BARK

XX "^^ rtr

The

(gui pi)

dried bark of the Chinese cassia tree, which has a cinnamon-

like flavor

comes

but

is

considered inferior to true cinnamon. The bark

in long, fairly

thick strips; the thin outer layer

the inside a caramel color.

is

dark brown,

land of plenty

SICHUAN PEPPER

Ah

(hua

jiao)

See page 73.

^^ STAR ANISE (ba jiao) The sun-dried yv open

p^

in

an evergreen tree, which,

fruit of

into a lovely eight-pointed star (the

Chinese).

The

AMOMUM TSAO-KUO

is

^

ripe,

pops

"eight horns"

and have a deep

thought to be native to China.

(COO gUO)

"^^^ olive-shaped dried fruit of a variety of "false

^Jt

cardamom,"

this

The dried fruits are dark brown and ridged and roughly nutmeg-size. They are sold in Chinese supermarkets as Tsao Kuo and are mainly used in aromatic stews. spice has a cool, cardamom-like flavor.

yB

"SAND GINGER" The

1^

(shan nai)

dried, sliced

rhizome of Kaempferia galanga, a plant

ger family, this spice looks very

pery taste.

^^^

One

"sand ginger."

The

ginger."

grown

name means

stars are reddish-brown in color

aniseed fragrance. This spice

when

in

spice,

j^

iBl

is

is

sold

used

like

dried-out ginger and has a pep-

Chinese names, sha

its

in

in

the gin-

jiang, literally

means

Chinese supermarkets simply as "sliced

aromatic stews,

is

native to India, but

is

several parts of southern China.

FENNEL SEEDS jj,^

It

which

of

in

{xiao hui xiang or xiao hui)

These pale green seeds have an aniseed

flavor

and are grown

in

several parts of northern China, although they are not a native spice. They are

used

in

aromatic stews and

in

five-spice

powder.

^ Other dried herbs and

spices that are

sometimes but

less

widely used

in

Sichuanese cooking include cloves (d;ng x;(jng),galangal {gao Hang jiang), nutmeg (rou

62

dou kou), other types of "false cardamom," and licorice root {gan cao).

THE SICHUANESE PANTRY

GARLIC

(da suan)

jr

Garlic

^V

is

ubiquitous as a flavoring

Sichuanese cooking, and

in

some

The type of garlic West appears in countless recipes. Legend says i» it was brought into China by a Han Dynasty official returning from da suan ("big gara mission to Central Asia and was given its Chinese name lic") because its heads were so much larger than those of the wild native of

varieties are also eaten as vegetables.

its

familiar to us in the

—

breeds.

The Sichuan region

garlic,"

fat,

also

is

bulbs

purplish

individual,

famous for

du suan, or "single-headed

its

not

are

that

divided

into

cloves.

Sichuanese cooks also use a great deal of "green garlic" {suan miao or qing suan), often translated as "scallion" or

"Chinese

rather than a flavoring. Garlic sprouts {suan

topped with a miniature

bright green garlic stems, each

enjoyed as a delicious

GINGER ,

-^ il

but as a vegetable

garlic bulb, are also

stir-fried vegetable.

(sheng Jiang)

Fresh ginger

is

an essential flavoring

also used to suppress

raw tastes

thought to have originated

^^

vated

the most

common

China, and

in

are also used as a vegetable is

in

in

Sichuanese cooking and

meat, poultry, and

fish. It

Southeast Asia, but has been

in

variety,

in stir-fried

suitable for

is

is

but the pale, tender young stems

dishes and can be pickled.

most

is

culti-

Sichuan, since ancient times. Mature ginger

in

and indispensable

ginger widely available in

leek,"

or suan hao), long, tubular,

tai

uses, and pickled ginger

is

The

fresh

also sold

Asian supermarkets. When whole pieces of ginger are crushed and added to

a dish, the skin

is

left

on for maximum taste and fragrance (the peel doesn't

matter because the ginger ered, or finely

not actually eaten); when ginger

is

chopped and used

in

where

dishes

it

is

will actually

sliced, sliv-

be eaten,

it

should be peeled.

MONOSODIUM GLUTAMATE

^i

^^

(wei jing)

Most Sichuanese cooks use monosodium glutamate salt

of glutamic acid, also

their dishes.

but

it

is

On

its

known

own,

this

as

MSG)

(the

sodium

to enhance the flavor of

white powder

is

almost tasteless,

considered to improve the fresh, natural taste {xian wei)

of cooking ingredients.

Used

in

small quantities,

urable kick to

many

substitute for

good ingredients and well-made

dishes, but

most cooks use

MSG

can give a certain pleas-

in

excessive quantities as a

it

stocks.

Many Western people 63

land of plenty

also associate

—the

with physical discomfort and frantic thirst

it

so-called

"Chinese restaurant syndrome." Chinese cooks have long appreciated foods that are rich

MSG

refined

natural glutamic acid, like certain types of

in is

not a traditional ingredient

in

mushrooms, but

Chinese cooking.

It

has been

manufactured only since the early part of the twentieth century, when a

how

Japanese scientist discovered has been widely used

MSG

to isolate glutamic acid from seaweed, and

Sichuanese cooking for only a few decades.

in

and

as at best unnecessary,

worst

at

a cheat that

makes

myself and have avoided

PEANUTS

it in

testing

all

the recipes

in this

regard

dishes taste

all

and detracts from more subtle gastronomic pleasures, so

similar

I

I

don't use

it

book.

(hua sheng mi)

Peanuts are a popular snack

^|-

in

Sichuan,

whether boiled with

or simply deep-fried. They are

4\J^

spices, encrusted with flavorings,

J^

an important source of

^

crunchy garnish for cold dishes and snacks. Raw, red-skinned

dishes (most notably

peanuts and

oil

and are also used

Gong Bao [Kung

unsalted

in

some

stir-fried

Pao] chicken), and as a

peanuts are easily available

roasted

in

health food stores and Asian supermarkets.

POTATO FLOUR v^

XV ;k^

(qian fen)

The Sichuanese use

to thicken their sauces. starch

potato

flour,

a mixture of

water and white starch derived

from peas to coat raw meat, poultry, and It

fish

before cooking and

has no flavor, so potato flour and corn-

both perfectly acceptable substitutes.

are

which you can buy

in

I

have used

any East Asian shop, to test the recipes

in this

book. The food writer Yan-kit So suggests using 50 percent more cornstarch than potato

flour,

which

is

reflected in the

measurements given

in

the recipes.

PRESERVED FOODS Pickled vegetables are fundamental to the spirit of Sichuanese cooking. Every

household has

its

pao

cai tan zi

and narrow neck, and a

lip

crunchy vegetables soak

—

a

rough earthenware pot with a rounded belly

that functions as a water seal. in

selection of flavorings that probably include ginger, with a

64

In

the darkness within,

a pool of brine, with a splash of rice

few pieces of cinnamon

brown

wine and a

sugar, Sichuan pepper,

stick, cassia bark,

and star

and

anise. The veg-

THE SICHUANESE PANTRY

etables

come and

pickling brine,

go, replenished every day

or mother

of vegetables, a

liquor,

goes on, they

and wine

salt

little

or two with fresh supplies, but the say, forever. With

each

new

batch

added, and the spices and sugar are

is

renewed from time to time. But the

rich,

aromatic

base goes from

liquid

strength to strength as the years, or even generations, pass.

Whenever we're cooking together

in his

Chengdu

my

flat,

friend

Zeng Bo

puts his forearm into a great clay urn and plucks out handfuls of scarlet pickled

young ginger stems, and long

chiles, pale

be sliced and

and

fried in

stir-fried

hot

string beans.

some tender

Some

of the chiles will

chicken meat; others

will

be pureed

to coax out their flavors and intense red hues for a dish of

oil

fish-fragrant pork.

with

The ginger may be

stir-fried

with duck,

its

fresh hotness a

pleasing contrast to the richness of the meat, and the long string beans will be

with a scattering of ground pork, chiles, and Sichuan peppercorns.

fast-fried

Some

vegetables are pickled for a few hours only, currently fashionable

tidbits that are

fresh, in

crunchy vegetables

clear

water with

ditional pickle

mented

the "water-shower"

Sichuan restaurants. These usually

in

cucumber, sweet peppers, or celery are steeped

from the more

tra-

and aromatic, but lack the deep,

fer-

just a splash of the rich

They

jar.

like

like

taste a

little

salty

mother

liquor

of the longer-pickled vegetables. Restaurants often display

flavors

their "water-shower" vegetables

in

clear glass pickle jars

Sichuanese pickles are often used rice porridge for breakfast

in

on

a countertop.

cooking, but they are also eaten with

and as a refreshing palate cleanser at the end of

almost every other meal. During the winter, small dishes of pickled radish, pale and crunchy, are served with a scattering of white sugar and

spring and summer, the

Han hua

bai.

most common

when they

Dry-salting

Chengdu

visit

the Sichuanese white cabbage,

cabbage leaves

something the Sichuanese seem to

another popular method of preserving vegetables.

is

in

it's

home-cooked meals to

are away from home. If

you

May, on sunny days the whole city seems to be hung with

—they are

sun-dried and then packed into clay jars with salt

and Sichuan pepper. Root vegetables are processed

cai)

is

This custom extends from the simplest

extravagant restaurant dinners, and miss most

pickle

chili oil. In

in

like

radishes and a type of

swede {da

tou

similar ways.

Many Sichuanese people, even in the cities, also still salt and smoke their pork, and in the winter make their own delicious air-dried sausages. The following is a small selection of recipes that will give you a taste of

own

Sichuanese food preserving.

65

land of plenty

HOMEMADE BACON WITH SICHUANESE

FLAVORINGS eaves to dry

CMt

in

the wind.

In

my

wooden houses were hung

old

^

first

Chengdu

yellowed

with such meats

fat

meat can

\y^

with a

aperitif,

week or so air-dry,

in

mixture of

a

and

finally

ground

dip of coarsely

little

pork

strips of

salt,

smoked

belly

or

leg

sugar, wine,

chiles

meat are

air, until it is

There are is

wine-red.

smoked stalls in

its

until

the

would

on the

side.

marinated for

first

wood

bacon

again

is

hung

the

regional variations within Sichuan. In

fat

is

a dark, golden yellow

and the

it

is

call

in

Chengdu, the

flesh

is

a

deep

Moun-

Taoist temples and scenery like a Chinese painting, the bacon

cities.

is

actually black, which makes it easy to identify on market The most celebrated bacons are always those that Western-

"organically produced" and that Chinese people

These are made according to

pigs fed

on household scraps rather than manufactured feed

my memory

as

traditional

being particularly

call "rustic,

methods from free-range

(tu).

in

The

as an

and spices. They are then hung

earthy"

stand out

own

the mountains to the northeast, most famously Qingcheng

In

with

until

and

needed.

number of

a

smoked

its

on

for several hours over a slow fire of

shavings, peanut husks, rice straw, or leaves. The finished

the open

flesh

is

are aromatic and richly smoked, and just a few slivers

also be sliced and steamed, and served

To make the bacon,

ers

the dying days

in

enliven a simple stir-fry of cauliflower or garlic stems.

will

I

tain,

them under the many of the

winter,

supermarkets of the West. The dark

rarely found in the

/|P

meat

own bacon and

their

of the lunar year. Sichuanese bacon has an intensity of flavor that

j^Jj^

up to

cure

still

sausages, salting them, smoking them, and hanging

I

*

a

rou)

la

Many Sichuanese households

1^1 /

chuan

(si

fine.

{si /;oo). Two types One was made by the

Peng Rui, in their family restaurant in the Wolong smoked her bacon slowly, for an entire day, in the cool, lazy smoke of smoldering pinewood. The other was the bamboo leaf-smoked bacon made in the "Bamboo Sea" nature reserve in southern Sichuan, a strong, subtle, pinkish meat that was so exquisite it left us speechless with pleasure. The following is my attempt to recreate some of these flavors in my London kitchen. The method of preparation has several stages and must be done

mother of

a friend of mine,

nature reserve. She

over a period of about a week, but

most may wish to soak

tastier than

66

of that available it

before you use

it

in it.

isn't difficult.

the

—

West

it

The

is

resulting

also

much

bacon

saltier,

is

far

so you

THE SICHUANESE PANTRY

You in

will

need some meat hooks to make

larger Chinese supermarkets).

smoking machine

is

but

ideal,

How

I've

you smoke the bacon

wood

meat a smoke bacon course experiment with other types of wood.

used the remains of

you can of

my Christmas

belly,

home

stick

lovely fragrance in

the past), but

a kitchen, for every 2 in

pounds of meat you will need approximately: 1/2 cup all-purpose flour 1/2 cup sugar 1/4 cup pine needles or cypress shavings or peanut husks

teaspoon saltpeter Shaoxing rice wine or medium-dry sherry 2 tablespoons brown sugar 1/2

2 tablespoons

belly into long strips

about 2 inches wide. Crush the cloves,

cassia bark,

and star anise together with a mortar and pestle. Dissolve the

saltpeter

the Shaoxing rice wine.

2 Rub

in

the marinade ingredients

all

a large pot

and leave them

them once

turning

3 After a week,

hang them

in

after

in

all

over the pork. Then place the strips

a refrigerator

When

remove the

strips, pierce

the bacon

is

my

hours to air-dry

you can begin the smoking. Line your

foil.

Mix the flour and sugar together

wood

rack over the smoking materials

(I

north-facing kitchen window).

dry,

the wok. Scatter over the pine leaves, a metal

each one with a meat hook, and

a cool, well-ventilated place for several

double thickness of

in

or other cold place for a week,

3-4 days.

hang mine from a cord strung up outside

4

A

my wok. As

3/4

3 star anise

Cut the pork

up to you.

in

pepper CUp Salt smoking materials If you are using a wok

with skin

a few pieces of cassia bark or

1

is

whole Sichuan

2 tablespoons

FOR THE SALT MARINADE 3 whole cloves cinnamon

give the

tree to

6 1/2 pounds fresh, boneless

pork

can be bought

achieved satisfactory results

for smoking materials, pine or cypress (I've

this recipe (they

wok

with a

at the center of

shavings, or peanut husks. Place

—

ideally

about 4 inches above

them, to allow for the circulation of the smoke. Place the strips of salted

bacon on the rack. Place the

wok

over a very high flame

until

the smoking 67

land of plenty

materials are emitting plenty of dark smoke.

turn

down

to a

medium

heat,

Then cover with

and smoke for 15-30 minutes,

a

until

wok

lid,

the pork

them halfway through. The longer you smoke, the stronger the color and the flavor. Do remember that you can remove and discard the outer layer of the bacon before you serve it, if strips have a rich, yellowish color, turning

its

flavor

is

excessively smoky.

The smoked bacon can be hung up or stored

5

want to use

the refrigerator

in

until

you

it.

SALT-CURED PORK WITH SWEET FERMENTED PA S T E (Jiang rou) This still

is

another traditional winter

make

cured

in

salt

festivities. Strips

of fat pork belly or hind leg are

and then rubbed with a selection of quintessentially

Sichuanese flavorings: Sichuan pepper, black paste rice

wine

steamed,

{lao zoo).

sliced,

which many households

the closing weeks of the lunar year and eat as part of

in

New Year

their

treat,

tian

mian jiang

(a

syrupy

made from fermented wheat), and fermented glutinous later hung out to dry. The meat is eventually

They are

and eaten cold as a

first

course or a nibble with wine.

It

has a

delicate, savory taste.

You

The meat should be prepared when the weather is cold but not freezing. will need 4 or 5 meat hooks to make this recipe (they can be bought in

Chinese supermarkets, or perhaps from your 2

pounds belly,

pork and

fresh, boneless

with

some

fat

with skin

FOR THE INITIAL SALT-CURING tablespoon Shaoxing rice wine or medium-dry sherry 2 tablespoons salt 1/4 teaspoon saltpeter 1

FOR THE SEASONING 8 tablespoons Sichuanese

68

local butcher).

sweet wheaten paste or sweet bean sauce 3-4 tablespoons Sichuanese fermented rice wine {\ao zao) or Shaoxing rice wine tablespoon whole Sichuan pepper to serve Sichuanese chili powder or any chili sauce I

THE SICHUANESE PANTRY

1

Cut the pork in

belly lengthwise into strips

a shallow container that will

with about

the

I

refrigerator. Splash the strips

tablespoon Shaoxing rice wine, and then rub them evenly with

and saltpeter. Place

salt

your

into

fit

about 2 inches wide. Place them

the refrigerator for 3 days, turning the strips

in

over after a day or two.

2

When

3 days

have passed, remove the belly

hooks, and hang them

hours to air-dry

3

When them

the meat

over the

all

days. Then take

in

is

it

is

and well-ventilated place overnight or for a few

my

north-facing kitchen window).

combine the seasonings

dry,

Return the

strips.

off

all

in

a small

bowl and rub

strips to the refrigerator for

them out and hang them up

4 To eat the meat, wash until

a cool

hang mine outside

(I

them with the meat

strips, pierce

another 2

again to air-dry.

the paste under

warm water and

then steam

cooked through. Allow the meat to cool thoroughly and cut

fairly thin slices

it

into

to serve.

5 Serve as an appetizer with a pile of Sichuanese

powder, or any

chili

chili

sauce you prefer.

SALTY DUCK EGGS Many Chengdu

(yan dan)

restaurants display a jar of bluish duck eggs that

have been pickled

in

their yolks have an

brine. These eggs have a strong salty taste, intriguing, slightly granular texture.

enjoyed as snacks and are usually quartered flesh can

caking

in

in

a paste

—

if

you leave them

antly salty. You will

9 fresh

made from

common

in

mixed with mud or ashes

home

the easiest

jar

with a

tight-fitting lid

I

method

is

to

are at their best after 2 to 3

the brine for longer they can

need a 2-quart

duck eggs

at

The eggs

salt

Chinese markets and can some-

sight in

Chinatowns abroad), but

use a strong salt-water solution.

weeks

They are

their shells so the

be picked out with chopsticks. Duck eggs can be cured by

them

(sooty ash-caked eggs are a

times be found

in

and

cup

to

become unpleasmake this recipe.

salt

69

land of plenty

1

Give the duck eggs a good wash and a scrub with a vegetable brush to

remove any 2 Bring

3 1/2

dirt.

Discard any cracked eggs.

cups water to a

boil,

add the

salt,

and

stir

to dissolve. Leave the

water to cool completely. 3

Place the eggs carefully

in

your preserving

jar

Pour over the

salt solution. Place

a small ceramic dish or glass at the top of the jar to keep the top eggs covered

by the water. Close the

4

When

lid

tightly

and leave

in

a cool place for

2-3 weeks.

the eggs are ready, remove them from the brine and hard-boil them

as required. Allow

them to cool completely before

eating.

Preserved vegetables

The

made by Sichuanese peasant farmers to tide themover the winter have become a distinctive Sichuanese flavor, used in all

traditional pickles

selves

aspects of the regional cuisine. Crisp vegetables pickled

in

brine, wine, sugar,

and spices are eaten as a snack to cleanse and refresh the

palate; salted veg-

some recipes and as a relish; pickled chiles under Chiles, page 54) have many culinary uses. The following preserved etables are all important flavorings in some famous local dishes. etables with chile are used

in

PRESERVED MUSTARD TUBER

L^

(zha

etable," has a

J^

is

in

cans as "Sichuan preserved veg-

wonderful crisp texture and

is

salty, sour,

spicy taste.

It

pork or chopped up and scattered over

delicious stir-fried with

bean curd. "Big-head vegetable" {da tou turnip,

veg-

cai)

This plump vegetable, often sold

^r-

(see

cai),

made from

a kind of

another famous Sichuanese pickle that has similar uses.

ya cai

^

This dark,

salty,

aromatic pickle

"'T*

variety of mustard green

jpT

The

(known

leaves are sun-dried,

spices and

sometimes

and

is

used

in

many

in

is

one of

salt,

cai).

and then mixed with into jars and left

most famous foodThe city of Yibin is one

Sichuan's

local dishes and snacks. is

leaves of a

Chinese as guang gan qing

They are then sealed

famous producer; another prized variety 70

made from the tender

rubbed with

sugar.

to mature for several months. Ya cai stuffs

is

made

in

Nanxi. A different type of

THE SICHUANESE PANTRY

mustard green

gan qing

{jian

cai)

is

related and equally delicious pickle.

earthenware

jars

made into "winter vegetable" {dong cai), a The "Tianjin preserved vegetable" sold in

Chinese supermarkets

in

these ingredients, with

its

similar texture

PICKLED MUSTARD GREENS

{suan

*^

This leafy vegetable, pickled particularly favored

^m

eral

spiced brine, has a sour taste and

in

summer and autumn

soups and goes particularly well with

available in

The

"^

^

I

-'

following

etables.

It

is

small quantities at the end of a meal.

\

watery vegetables

like

but are best

left

led,

overnight.

Sichuanese pickle

need

a

is

I

fermented

you please. Young

as

taste,

or

in

ginger, cauli-

work very

More pick-

in

the brine for several hours only, or into chunks,

is

another popular

also generally used after only

cup rock or sea

good a

water

24 hours. The

sealable

lid

to

make

this recipe.

-inch piece of fresh ginger,

I

unpeeled salt

teaspoon whole Sichuan pepper 2 teaspoons strong rice wine or vodka 1/2

I

cai)

well.

-quart pickle jar with a

4 dried chiles

1/2

readily

improves with time.

FORTHEBRiNE 2 1/4 cups

is

sev-

cucumber and sweet peppers can be

White cabbage, cut

—the cabbage

flavor of the brine will

chuan pao

flower, and other crisp, crunchy vegetables

nf5

is

in

rice porridge for breakfast

You can vary the vegetables

»

used

This pickle

yields very salty pickles with a nice

I

You

fish.

It is

a typical Sichuanese recipe for pickled root veg-

which should be eaten with

y^^^

1/4

{si

T

^^

dishes.

Chinese shops.

PICKLED VEGETABLES Yf^

salty taste.

CO'l)

'^'p-

in

an acceptable substitute for

is

and dark,

of a star anise

tablespoon brown sugar

a good piece of cassia bark or

cinnamon stick suggested vegetables 3/4 pound red-skinned or 1/3

of a

white Asian radish (daikon)

pound carrots serve to 1/2

chili oil

white sugar 71

land of plenty

1

Bring the water to a boil with the

to dissolve the

salt, stirring

salt.

When

it

has completely dissolved, set aside and leave to cool.

2 Place the cooled water in

it

in

a very clean pickle jar

the oven for a few minutes to sterilize

ingredients and give

them

a

good

usually boil

(I

Add

it).

mine or pop

the other brine

all

stir.

3 Clean the vegetables thoroughly, removing stalks and any whiskery bits

from the radishes. Allow them to dry completely. Cut the vegetables into

them

small chunks and put

ceramic dish or

into the pickle

jar.

Wedge

on top of them to make sure that the vegetables are

lid

completely immersed

the brine. Seal the

in

place for at least 24 hours.

The

lid

and leave

when you

unseal the jar

—

this

is

little chili oil,

pickles,

and wine as you do

ROCK SUGAR ,J>

will

notice a slight

a small dipping dish, drizzle with

you can replenish the

so, to

jar,

keep the brine good and

if

you wish,

adding

more

salt,

sugar,

salty.

(b'mg tang)

This pale yellow sugar has a pleasant taste and nourishing, curative recipes.

rot

fill

and sprinkle with a few pinches of sugar

4 As you eat the

dark

a cool,

part of the fermentation process. To

serve the pickles, scoop out enough to a

in

improve the longer you leave

flavors will

them. (They are very good after about a week.) You fizzing

or

a small glass

smashed with cooks use

it

a in

hammer

It

comes

in

before use

in

sweet soups, dumpling

dishes, as well as in medicinal stews

and soups.

It

used

is

large crystals

many

in

and must be

the kitchen, Sichuanese fillings,

and some meat

can be found

in

most

East

Asian food shops,

SALT ^

{chuan yan)

j| *

^^

Sichuanese gourmets attach great importance to the use of the local well

which has been mined

tent

almost 99 percent

it

is

in

the region for

very pure and strong-tasting

It

cooks regard

72

salt,

lennia.

is

—

^with

no

as an essential ingredient in

pickling vegetables.

The

however, subtle, so

it's

difference

more than two

—the sodium

bitter aftertaste,

mil-

chloride con-

and many

local

making Sichuanese dishes and

between Sichuan

salt

and a good sea

not worth going to great lengths to use the

salt

real thing.

in is,

THE SICHUANESE PANTRY

SESAME OIL

(x/ong you)

The Chinese name for this oil, which is made from roasted sesame seeds, means "fragrant oil," and its dark, nutty aroma is highly prized. Sesame oil figures prominently in the dressings for cold

jfc

^ "^ffl

dishes,

the

is

it

also used to

from the stove. For the

straight

grance,

and

it is

fire.

almost

Toasted sesame

you choose

^<^

^^ j^ i§

(zhi

added

oil is

a pure variety

SESAME PASTE

^

alvs^ays

latter,

at the

enhance the scent of food served because of the

volatility of its fra-

end of the cooking process, away from

readily available in the

— but do make sure

West

and not one blended with other

oils.

ma Jiang)

The toasted sesame paste used in Sichuanese dark, nutty flavor and is mushroom-brown in pastes available

in

Chinese supermarkets

in

The sesame

West are very difwork very well in

the

ferent, with a lighter, brighter taste, but they

Sichuanese recipes. Tahini, preferably dark

cold dishes has a color.

still

tahini,

can also be used

as a substitute.

SESAME SEEDS jt4»

-^^ ^5^

(zhi

especially ditional in

a dry

ma)

The Sichuanese use both white and black sesame seeds in their cooking.Toasted white sesame seeds are mainly used as a garnish for cold meat dishes. Toasted black sesame seeds are used in sweet dishes,

New Year's wok

in

the

filling

of the glutinous rice dumplings that are a tra-

treat {tang yuon). To toast

raw sesame seeds,

over a low flame for a few minutes,

SICHUAN PEPPER

(huo

until

just stir

them

they are fragrant.

jiao)

J^^

This ancient spice, native to China, has long been associated with

'^^

Sichuanese cooking and

xNf

ing (see

page

1

is

still

the region's most distinctive flavor-

6 for a detailed description). At

its

pepper consists only of the dried pepper husks of {Zanthoxylum simulans) that grows Sichuan.

The dried husks are

in

a

best, Sichuan

woody shrub

the mountainous areas of northwestern

pinkish red and knobbly

on the outside, pale

Sometimes the glossy black seeds are included too, although they have taste. The husks are added to stocks and marinades to dispel the rank-

within. little

ness of meat, poultry, and oil

fish

and to enhance fragrance. They are also

fried in

to flavor wok-cooked dishes, and roasted and ground to be used as a dip

73

land of plenty

or scattered over

Sichuan.

comes from

pepper

Sichuan

When

kinds of hot and

all

Hanyuan

cold foods.

The most celebrated

county

mountainous

relatively fresh, the scent of

it's

whelming. The quality of the Sichuan pepper sold so poor by comparison that sible

it's

hardly

worth

In

Hanyuan hua in

western

jiao

over-

is

Chinese supermarkets

using. Fortunately

it is

now

is

pos-

to buy good-quality hua jiao from special suppliers (see page 377).

If

you are not

familiar with this spice,

ment: take one Sichuan pepper husk, put

ONCE OR TWICE

before removing

creep over your

feeling will begin to

minute, wondering

why nothing

is

it.

it

if

into

Wait

lips

a

—

if

the following experi-

your mouth, and chew

few seconds and

and tongue.

happening

much stronger and may seem unpleasant only experience this effect

recommend

I

if

Do

you do

not chew this,

gently

it

a cool, tingly it

for half a

the effect

you are not used to

it.

will

(You

be

will

you use good-quality Sichuan pepper.)

GROUND ROASTED SICHUAN PEPPER {hua

jiao

mian)

^ K,

An

jtj^i

scattered on

essential Sichuanese condiment, this aromatic

many hot

ber of cold appetizers.

'

It

smells heavenly and will

make your

you eat it.The following recipe makes about 2

>«^^

gle as

>*|7'|V%

Qf ground pepper

-^^

powder

—enough

1/2

some

lips tin-

for a salt-and-pepper dip (see page 75)

over for your spice rack.

left

num-

tablespoons

and a pock-marked Mother Chen's bean curd {ma po dou

1^^^

found

is

dishes and mixed into dressings for a

It's

not worth making

fu),

with

in

large

many Sichuanese housealmost every day). Do remem-

quantities, as the fragrance dulls with time (in

holds the pepper

roasted and ground freshly

is

ber that you must use

first-class

Sichuan pepper to appreciate this flavoring,

whole Sichuan pepper

6 tablespoons

1

Heat

a dry

wok

over a low flame. Add the Sichuan pepper and

about 5 minutes,

smoke

slightly as

taste bitter.

until

the pepper husks are richly fragrant

—they

you cook them. Take care not to burn them or

Remove from

the

wok

will

they'll

and allow to cool.

2 Grind the peppercorns to a powder

74

stir-fry for

in

a spice grinder or a

mortar and

THE SICHUANESE PANTRY

pestle

—Sichuanese cooks

the

Sift

powder to remove any remaining

Use immediately or store

SOY SAUCE

®

stalks

or unground pepper husks.

jar.

{Jiang you)

B.C.,

and these

condiments have long been regarded as an essential part of people's

diets.

These days two types of soy sauce are

common

in

thinner, saltier, light soy sauce and heavier, richer, dark soy sauce.

soy

light

an airtight

grains into sauces since at least the third century

Crb

—

in

of iron.

The Chinese have been fermenting soybeans, wheat, and other

jt^

use

made

use weighty mortars and pestles

is

The

used mainly as a salty seasoning, the darker one for adding color

make their own sweet, aromatic soy sauce by simmering dark soy with brown sugar and spices this is used in cold dishes and sauces for various snacks. The finest soy sauce is allowed to ferment naturally, but most versions rely on added yeast.

to sauces and marinades. Sichuanese cooks also

—

SALT-AND-PEPPER DIP

Deep-fried dishes served with a salt-and-pepper dip are

J*:*

_— jpif-

(jiao yan)

common

on Chinese restaurant menus outside China, but they're

made with

,

the following recipe. The Sichuan

condiment

a distinctive

acquaintance of mine

usually

black pepper rather than the Sichuan pepper used

and

delightful

who once

aroma.

lived in

I

in

pepper, of course, gives the

should mention that a Tibetan

Chengdu keeps

a

pepper grinder

full

of Sichuan peppercorns, which she adds to the cooking pot or serving dish

much

as

Westerners add black pepper. You could

fill

a grinder with gently

remember

roasted Sichuan peppercorns for a most delicious result, but do that their flavor will fade

I

if

you keep them too

tablespoon ground roasted Sichuan pepper (see above) Sichuanese cooks always fry the

ing this

moisture

(a

symptom

necessary with the

bine the condiments

ence

if

in

of their

3

salt in a

little

tablespoons

dry

wok

damp and clammy

salt available in

a

long.

the West. So

dish and serve.

Rock

I

salt

to get rid of any lingerclimate), but

I

don't find

suggest you simply salt

is

the

salt

com-

of prefer-

you're seeking authenticity, but sea salt or ordinary table salt will do.

7S

land of plenty

SWEET, AROMATIC SOY SAUCE A

{fu zhi Jiang you)

culinary secret that explains the intriguing flavor of "hot

little

and garlicky" sauces and the famous Zhong dumpling dressing, can be

made

can be varied as you please; include small

ginger" {shan

and keeps

large quantities

in

amounts of

The

many Sichuanese cooks would

licorice

also

root {gan cao) and dried "sand

nai).

1/2

6 tablespoons

1/2

1/3

brown sugar of a cinnamon stick or a

a small piece of fresh ginger,

2/3

the ingredients

Place

all

sugar.

Then turn the heat

a star anise

teaspoon Sichuan pepper

unpeeled, crushed

in

a

pot and bring to a

right

boil, stirring

down and simmer

cheesecloth, or just put

in

teaspoon fennel seeds

1/2 of

piece of cassia bark

can bind the spices

it

spices

cup dark soy sauce cup water

1/3

it

indefinitely.

to dissolve the

for about 20 minutes.

them

You

into the liquid and strain

through a tea-strainer after simmering. Leave to cool.

SWEET WHEATEN PASTE jtU.

used \jj]^

(tian

This thick, dark paste

some

in

mion

stir-fried

Jiang)

made from fermented wheat

is

dishes and

in

meat dishes such

dip for

llQ

thing available similar taste

in

the

West

as fragrant is

a

It

is

the salt-curing of winter

meats, and can also be mixed with sugar and sesame

^:^

flour.

oil

to make a

and crispy duck. The nearest

sweet bean sauce, which has

a very

and works well as a substitute. Hoisin sauce can be

used as an alternative dipping sauce, although

it

is

much sweeter than the

Sichuanese paste.

TANGERINE PEEL

^^ '^ JSs^

76

{chen

The dried

pi)

peel of mandarin oranges or tangerines

sionally in Sichuanese cooking. You can

make

it

is

used occa-

yourself by scraping

the pith out from strips of fragrant orange peel and drying them

in

THE SICHUANESE PANTRY

an airy place.

they

will

When

the strips are bone-dry, place them

in

an airtight jar and

keep for ages. Dark brown dried tangerine peel can be bought

in

Chinese supermarkets.

Tea

Tea

one of the

is

trees. Their

chatting and drawing

sprawl

in

bamboo

is

alive

owners, retired

on their

life.

When

you

sit in

with the sounds of clacking mahjong

peep and twitter

laughter. Songbirds

from the

Chinese

staples of Sichuanese and

house, the courtyard

men

in

bamboo Mao suits, sit nearby, bamboo pipes. Younger men

dark blue

long, silver-tipped

chairs, cigarettes dangling

and

cages hanging

bell-shaped

in

a tea-

tiles

from their mouths, poker cards

splayed across their tables. Packets of peanuts, dried beef, and watermelon

seeds

lie

open, around them a debris of skins and husks. Tea bowls,

varying degrees with a pale

amber

dotted around. Occasionally the

air

is

filled

ruptured by the twang of the wandering

ear cleaner, clicking his metal instruments together as he does the rounds,

everyone know

ting

then

sits

he's here.

to

with jasmine blossoms, are

liquid, floating

A woman

hails

let-

him, haggles for a price, and

back as he probes and strokes, her eyes closed, an expression of

quiet bliss on her face. All the while, the tea attendants bustle to and fro with

copper

topping up the china cups, careful not to

kettles,

Teahouses are part of the fabric of Sichuanese

spill

life. In

old parts of the cities they are intimate places, clusters of leafy

drop of water.

a

the villages and the

bamboo

chairs

in

a

courtyard or the ground floor of a timber-framed house, where older

people gather to gossip or to play and sing the sounds of traditional Sichuan opera.

In

the Buddhist and Taoist temples, the teahouses buzz with the chatter

of tourists and pilgrims, their courtyards and colonnades secluded from the bustle of the streets. In city parks, too, teahouses extend over huge areas, taking in pagodas,

From the Sichuanese

bamboo

late

social

groves, and lakeside promontories.

Qing period to the 1940s, teahouses were life.

Some

of

Sichuan's secret societies {pao ge),

at the center of

them were frequented by members

who

actually used the

teacups as an elaborate secret code. Teahouses often had an subversion

— many establishments of

this

or

Go

(we/

in

theatrical

qi).

performances or

air of political

period actually displayed signs urging

their clients to avoid discussing national affairs:

specialized

of

arrangement of their

wu

tan guo

shi.

Some teahouses

storytelling; others in

Chinese chess

Certain establishments were notorious places of rendezvous

77

land of plenty

for prostitutes and their clients.

recent years,

In

houses have been demolished or relocated but, after a

hunting,

little

it is

of these older tea-

the course of modernization,

possible to find a few of the old-style busi-

still

bamboo and

nesses, with their

in

many

copper, their masseurs and ear cleaners, and

even, on occasion, a Sichuanese opera group.

According to Chinese legend, the Divine Farmer, Shen Nong, discovered the use of tea as a drink a

some

five millennia ago,

pot of water he was boiling

in

enjoyed the taste and fragrance of medicinal benefits.

although

many

domesticated

The

the open

when

this infusion

tea leaves drifted into

Shen Nong

air.

said to have

and to have found that

it

had

historical origins of tea drinking are rather unclear,

scholars believe that the wild tea plant

in

is

today's Sichuan region.

One

may

have been

first

fourth-century text, Chang Qu's

on the Kingdom of Huayang, mentions that tea was given in tribute Wen, the twelfth-century-B.c. founder of the Zhou Dynasty, by tribal heads in the region. The same text also describes the cultivation of tea in sev-

Treatise

to King

eral parts of today's Sichuan, suggesting that by the

farming had already

These

it

was written, tea

become common.

days, Sichuan

most famous

dew

time

is

one of the centers of Chinese tea production. The

local varieties are

tea {meng ding gan

lu)

all

green teas, and they include meng ding sweet

from Mingshan county, mao feng tea from Ya'an

county {mao feng cho), green bamboo

leaf tea {zhu ye qing)

from Emei Mountain,

and snow shoot tea from Qing Cheng Mountain {qing cheng xue

ya).

The

Sichuanese themselves have a particular penchant for jasmine blossom teas,

which are thought to be the most refreshing and best suited to the sultry climate.

They are made by heating green tea with

the eastern Sichuan

hills until

fresh jasmine flowers

their fragrance infuses

all

with unfurling long, green leaves and

The manner

of serving tea

in

drifting,

It is

cho).

lids

is

spills

far lovelier

tender blossoms.

Sichuan also has a distinctive local flavor.The

and saucers

The saucer catches

the cup; the bowl

is

wonderfully fragrant,

Sichuanese rarely use teapots, but brew their loose tea leaves china bowls with

from

the leaves. Sichuanese

jasmine blossom tea (known colloquially as "flower tea," hua cha) than the jasmine tea one usually finds outside China.

local

(this

is

known

in

individual

as "lid-bowl tea," gai

wan

and protects the drinker from the hotness of

the drinking vessel; and the

lid is

used to keep the tea hot

and, with a gentle sweeping motion, to help the water circulate as the leaves infuse.

78

Sichuanese tea drinkers also use the

lid

as a

filter,

fanning away any

THE SICHUANESE PANTRY

floating tea leaves as they raise the

guest

water

is is

bowl to their

added

at the table,

the bottom. The hot

in

and the tea bowl covered as the

liquid infuses. The

brewing can have a bitter taste (some connoisseurs even throw

first

the second brewing lar intervals

thought to be the best.The water

is

new

teahouses, each

lips. In

given a tea bowl with a layer of dry tea leaves

is

away);

it

topped up

at regu-

some with

by the tea attendants with their copper kettles,

the

famous yard-long spouts that are handled with flamboyance and amazing dexterity. The

same cup of tea can

last as

long as you want

vor of the leaves obviously weakens with each tea

is

drunk

it

refilling. In

although the

to,

from a thermos

a similar manner, although the cups are refilled

in

fla-

Sichuanese homes,

flask rather than a kettle.

Chinese green tea has a fragrance and a

clarity that

also thought to focus the mind, and Chinese as an aid to meditation. There are

casual

many

different

consumption of long-brewed infusions on

Chinese gong

fu cha,

with

mind, however, sitting on a

its

special

bamboo

is

intensely pleasing.

monks have drunk

ways of drinking

trains

in

tea,

from the

and buses, to the eastern

implements and soothing

chair

It is

for centuries

it

rituals.

To my

a tranquil Sichuan teahouse, inhaling

the scent of tea leaves and jasmine flowers, gazing at the reflection of trees on the surface of the

VINEGAR

amber

is

one of

life's

great pleasures.

(CU)

Vinegar

jrj4^

"^

liquid,

it

is

not used as much

is

still

in

Sichuan as

an essential flavoring.

Baoning vinegar, made

in

The

it is

is

the favored vinegar for use

currently available

in

north China, but

Langzhong county from wheat bran and

dark red-brown color and deep, mellow fragrance, with a taste. This

in

finest Sichuanese variety

slightly

rice.

It

sweet

hot dishes. Baoning vinegar

in

the West, but Chinkiang vinegar

is

very similar

is

has a afteris

not

in effect

and makes an excellent substitute. Ordinary black Chinese vinegar can be used, although finds

its

way

it

is

not as

flavorful.

Clear vinegar made from glutinous rice

into cold dishes, especially

where the darker

varieties might

detract from the appearance of the main ingredients. Chinese vinegars are

much milder

in

Western counterparts. According to Chinese vinegars in the world were made in China, and Chi-

taste than their

sources, the earliest grain

nese texts dating back to the middle of the cial

first

millennium

B.C. refer

to spe-

vinegar-making workshops.

79

land of plenty

WHITE PEPPER

Ground white pepper

rt

1

(hu jiao mian)

^^

is

used as a seasoning

in

many Sichuanese

recipes, particularly in "white-flavored" {bai wei) dishes,

;kt^

pale

color and often simply seasoned with

in

^^

also the spice that provides the hotness

\jSJ

and-sour" soups. Black pepper

cooking

—

its

is

rarely,

dark grains are considered

in if

salt

and pepper.

Sichuan's

ever,

which are

used

It is

famous "hotin

Sichuanese

unsigf^tly.

COOKING A SICHUANESE MEAL There are no hard-and-fast meal.

The most important

rules for deciding

on the menu of a Sichuanese

thing from the point of view of the guests

is

to

have a variety of colors, tastes, and textures; and from the point of view of the cook to make the last-minute cooking as easy and as quick as possible.

When

you are planning a meal,

it's

best to think

every person, with an extra dish or two

if

in

terms of one dish for

you have time or energy. Try to

use a few different cooking methods: serving perhaps a slow-braised dish

with a wok-cooked dish that involves a marinade and sauce, and a couple of simple stir-fried vegetables. Cold dishes can usually be prepared

in

advance

and can be a delicious and intriguing part of the meal: they can also be put

on the table when your guests the

last

couple of dishes.

If

arrive, to

keep them happy while you cook

you want to save time, you can always buy some

ready-made cooked meats from a Chinese shop or restaurant see hanging

in

—the kind you

the windows: these can be served cold or reheated

in

a

microwave. And there's no reason why you can't supplement a Sichuanese dinner with a green salad or a few nibbles

be authentic but they are very much If

you want to be

really

in

like

nuts and olives

—they may not

the spirit of the Sichuanese tradition.

Chinese about

it,

you should also serve a simple,

stock-based soup at the end of the meal: perhaps the bean curd soup on

page 337 or the fried egg and tomato soup described on page 306. And don't forget to offer your guests plenty of white rice

steamed, but

I

find

the best

cooker. That way, the rice it

as

is

method

is

—

to use the

this

can be boiled or

infallible

electric

rice

always perfect, and you don't have to think about

you prepare the other dishes.

Sichuanese dumplings can be eaten as snacks or as part of an informal lunch.

80

Everyone

I

know

loves Sichuanese boiled dumplings and wontons, and

THE SICHUANESE PANTRY

they are great fun to make with a group of friends. Make sure you stock up

on plenty of wrappers and fresh

filling

ingredients: any

leftovers

can be

frozen and used another time. Sichuanese cold dishes or Western-style ads

make

a refreshing

accompaniment to

sal-

a snacky dumpling meal.

81

VIETNAM /"^.

LAOS

^'

noodles, dumplings, and other street treats IF

YOU

SIT

DOWN

IN

ONE OF THE BUSY MARKET STREETS

of old Chengdu, and close your eyes, you

will

gradually hear,

in

the midst of

all

the hubbub, the sounds of the itinerant street traders. The shoe cleaner passes first,

knocking

his

wooden shoe brush

gentle but insistent rhythm.

Then

against a

there's the

wooden

stool, beating

candy man, sounding

out a

his arrival

with a metal clapper: ding ding dang, ding ding dang. Without even looking, you

know

that

each one

he'll

filled

be carrying a pair of woven baskets on a with a pale chewy toffee that

candy {ding ding

huarr

wooden

it's

its

bamboo shoulder calling *'Dou huar!

the flower bean curd vendor with

warm

curd and seasonings.

chairs and tables

onto the

pole,

called, unsurprisingly, ding ding

Next, the sound of a man's voice

barrels filled with

nearby, spilling

84

tang).

—and you know

is

street,

And

if

his

Dou

red-and-black

there's a teahouse

you might even hear the

I

makes

metallic click of the ear cleaner's slender pincers as he

rounds, hawk-

his

ing for customers.

Chengdu has long been known boo

is

who

vendors,

flute

city

bustling street

its

and the

life,

city

is

with the flower sellers and toy makers, the knife grinders and bam-

alive

still

for

famed for

its

gave

it

Above all, however, the Chengdu boasts literally

this vibrant reputation.

diverse and delicious street food.

hundreds of specialized snacks, from spicy noodles to sweet dumplings and crunchy flatbreads; from steamed buns to bean curd and aromatic cold meats.

Most of these

tidbits,

known

in

Chinese as xiao

made to order by street vendors

nally

some

of

them are

still

who

chi

or

were

"little eats,"

plied their trades

sold this way. Elderly residents of

all

origi-

over the

city:

Chengdu remember

the early twentieth century as something of a golden era for this kind of eating;

they describe

how

the street vendors lived or died by the quality of their

were driven to create snacks of unparalleled flavor. Many sigh as from their childhoods the scent of a favorite dumpling, drifting on

food, so they

they the

recall

warm

spring

air.

Many

of today's

most popular snacks date from the

imperial and early republican periods.

Some

popular legend for the excellence of their ciated with the delicacies they invented.

of their creators have entered

of the

ended up opening restaurants, some of which have

Some

notable snacks are

named

boiled dumplings, the specialty of a

nous

rice balls,

made

and Yibin "kindling" noodles.

more

inextricably asso-

successful vendors

lasted several generations.

after their creators, for

example Zhong

man named Zhong Xiesen, and

to perfection by one

after their region of origin, like

names

craft, their

Many

Lai

in

named

{chuan bei Hang fen)

jelly

others take their names from the

their original vendors, like ding ding candy, dan dan noodles {dan

der pole

Lai gluti-

Yuanxin. Others are

North Sichuan pea

Still

Chinese), and the delicate steamed dumplings

calls

in

Chengdu, but there are countless

capital.

cial

Chongqing, Sichuan's

glutinous rice balls ("mountain city

the village of Juntun for

go

in

as

zheng

spicy,

second

city,

known

is

rice balls," shan

I

for

its

tiny

cheng xiao tang yuan),

crunchy flatbreads {guo

kue/).

Wherever you Yibin

in

encountered several intriguing new dumplings wrapped

in

different fragrant leaves.

that appear

origi-

outside the provin-

Sichuan you'll find unusual delicacies: at one recent lunch

southern Sichuan

rolls

its

hilly little

local specialties

of

means shoul-

known

zheng cakes (zheng zheng gao). Many of Sichuan's most famous snacks nated

late

There are

in

also seasonal specialties, like the spring

on the streets of Chengdu

in

the spring, and the cones of

85

land of plenty

glutinous rice

wrapped

bamboo

in

leaves {zong zi) that are eaten

around the

Dragon Boat Like

Festival on the fifth day of the fifth lunar month. most aspects of Chinese culture, Sichuanese street food has been

shaken up by the turbulent

political

tural Revolution, the individual

traders

vidual

were

driven

events of the

off

the

names of

and street snacks were recycled on set menus

in

as capitalist, and indi-

Private

streets.

collectivized (although they often kept the

During the Cul-

last century.

economy was branded

new

a

were

restaurants

their original owners),

generation of imper-

state-owned restaurants. The incentive for achieving excellence disap-

sonal,

peared, and Sichuanese street food seems to have gone through a period of stagnation and even decline. Since the

reforms sance.

in

The

Communist

economic

its

the late 1970s, however, there has been something of a renais-

new generation of snacks, well as new varieties like Xin-

street vendors have reappeared with a

including old favorites like flower bean curd as jiang

Party began

potatoes and Shanghai fried chicken. Private restaurants are bringing the

traditional snacks

upmarket and putting pressure on the older state-owned

restaurants. Foreign fast-food outlets are also beginning to invade Chengdu,

with

some

interesting consequences.

Many

of the older Sichuanese snack

modern

restaurants and noodle shops are reinventing themselves as restaurants, with American-style backlit

counters, and

slick,

clean dining rooms.

them to compete with the

menus hanging over

These makeovers are

fast-food

their service

clearly enabling

foreign chain restaurants, but their food

is

as

Sichuanese as ever. Several specialized xiao chi restaurants, such as Long

Chengdu,

still

offer sets of Sichuan's

most celebrated

Chao Shou

in

central

snacks. Each person

is

given ten or twenty tiny individual dishes, each bearing a street-sized portion

of a different delicacy. spicy sauce; a dish of

A

couple of Zhong dumplings drizzled

smoked duck; two

sesame seeds and sugar;

a

a

hot bean sauce; a

a scrumptious

glutinous rice balls stuffed with black

steamed dumpling

one pot-sticker dumpling with

in

filled

with meat and pumpkin;

a toasty, golden bottom;

single, fragile rippled-silk fried

some

cold pea

jelly in

dumpling. ... By the time

the waiters have finished dispensing their goodies, every inch of the table

covered with the sumptuous

A number lished as ers.

86

A

is

array.

of dishes that began as street snacks have

banquet appetizers: these you

will find in

become

well estab-

the next chapter. Appetiz-

few of the most famous Sichuanese snacks require

special

equipment

NOODLES, DUMPLINGS, AND OTHER STREET TREATS

or technical

skills.

have not attempted to give recipes for these, but have

I

most

included brief descriptions of the

The following

recipes can

all

interesting at the end of the chapter.

be made at

home

with a

minimum

of fuss.

NOODLE DISHES

TRADITIONAL DAN DAN NOODLES dan dan nnian

Dan dan noodles

are the

most famous Sichuanese

street snack

and have become known as the epitome of Chengdu's street food t Cj

They were

culture.

"

originally sold

J^^»

"^

sauces

in

baskets hanging from a

dan

in

Chinese). Older people

as

days

when

these vendors were a

"dan dan mian\ dan dan mianV rang out

were served

dles

by

men who wandered

alleys of the city, carrying their stoves, noodles,

in

small portions

hunger of scholars working

late

in

in

the

and secret-recipe

bamboo shoulder pole (known in Chengdu can remember the

common

sight

and their

every quarter of the

tiny bowls, just

city.

calls

of

The noo-

enough to ease the

or mahjong players gambling into the

night.

They were inexpensive and nourishing and enjoyed by everyone from day laborers to the very rich, whose servants were sent to the gateways of the old courtyard houses to flag

down

passing noodle vendors. The

name dan dan

noodles didn't originally refer to a particular style of noodles, but firmly associated with the following recipe,

Sichuanese pickled vegetable ya dles have lives

on

in

now

all

cai

is

now

which makes use of the famous

and an assortment of spices. Dan dan noo-

but disappeared from the streets of Chengdu, but the dish

countless noodle shops and restaurants.

To serve the noodles Sichuanese-style, divide

all

the sauce ingredients

into individual bowls, top each with a portion of noodles, and scatter with a little

cooked meat. Otherwise,

just present the

noodles

in

one

large

bowl and

serve them at the table.

Serves 4 as a starter or a snack, 2 for a hearty lunch

87

land of plenty

12

ounces fresh Chinese noodles or 8 ounces dried Chinese noodles

2-3 tablespoons

chili oil

to

taste I

FOR THE SAUCE

1/2

teaspoons Chinkiang or

black Chinese vinegar

tablespoon melted lard or peanut oil 4 tablespoons Sichuanese ya cai orTianjin preserved vegetable 3 scallions, green parts only 1/2 tablespoons light soy sauce 1/2 tablespoon dark soy sauce

1/2-1

I

teaspoon ground

roasted Sichuan pepper (see page 74)

FORTHE PORK TOPPING peanut oil 4 ounces ground pork teaspoon Shaoxing rice wine or medium-dry sherry 2 teaspoons light soy sauce a

I

little

1

salt to taste

1

Heat

tablespoon of peanut

I

oil in

or Tianjin preserved vegetable and fragrant. Set aside.

Add

meat

is

wok

over a high flame. Add the ya

stir-fry for

Add another tablespoon

then add the ground pork and wine.

a

the soy sauce and

stir-fry.

salt

of

about 30 seconds, oil

wok

to the

As the meat separates,

to taste, and continue to

well cooked, but not too dry.

Remove from

the

until

cai

it

is

and reheat, in

the

stir-fry until

the

wok

splash

and set aside.

Finely slice the scallions.

2 Put the fried vegetable and

all

the other sauce ingredients into a serving

bowl and mix together.

3

Cook

the noodles according to the instructions on the package. Then drain

them and add them to the sauce in the serving bowl. meat mixture and serve immediately. 4

When

the bowl

is

on the

table, give the

and meat are evenly distributed.

88

noodles a good

Sprinkle with the

stir until

the sauce

NOODLES. DUMPLINGS. AND OTHER STREET TREATS

XIE LAOBAN*S

DAN DAN NOODLES

niu rou

dan dan mian

The grandfather of a friend of mine was a chef, and he came to Chengdu before the war, eager to discover the secrets of Sichuanese cooking. When he arrived he made his way to a famous restaurant

-»

-T* j>

1^3

that served an extraordinarily delicious fried beef.

He begged

the

chef to teach him the recipe but was rudely turned away. Undeterred in his

quest, he crept back to the restaurant after closing time and

stole the bundles of rubbish lying outside. Inside the bundles he

Vpj

found half-eaten remains of the fabled

dish,

to deduce the ingredients and cooking


method and make

The

V57

following recipe

my own

is

recreation of a legendary and

unique version of dan dan noodles served Sichuan University.

It is

the fruit of repeated

ber of years, during which for his culinary secrets.

I

sonings

in

On one

the noodle bowls.

following recipe has

visits

in

a tiny restaurant near

to the restaurant over a num-

begged and cajoled the unsmiling proprietor Mr. Xie occasion he told

cious meaty topping; other times he let

He

me watch

me

the ingredients of the deli-

as his

cooks prepared the sea-

may have withheld a detail or two, but the

met with the wholehearted approval of several of the

most devoted and

restau-

regular customers.

These noodles are not for the fainthearted but utterly delicious to those in

a tasty

imitation.

^_,

rant's

from which he was able

who know them

—they are shamelessly

well. They are generally

spicy,

served

individual bowls, each containing a smattering of sauce ingredients, a small

portion of noodles, and a teaspoon or two of ground meat. given instructions for In

Chengdu the

every day

in

one

a pile of

you

have, however,

large bowlful.

made with fresh flour-and-water noodles, delivered flour-dusted bamboo baskets. Here, simple flour-and-

dish

water noodles are only

I

is

available dried, but

you could use fresh egg noodles

if

prefer.

Serves 4 as a starter or a snack, 2 for a hearty lunch

89

land of plenty

I

pound of fresh Chinese

4 ounces ground beef

noodles or 12 ounces dried Chinese noodles

salt to taste

2 teaspoons light soy sauce

FORTHE MEATTOPPING

FOR THE SAUCE

tablespoon peanut oil 3 Sichuanese dried chiles, snipped in half, seeds discarded 1/2 teaspoon whole Sichuan

1/2-1

1

(see page 74)

teaspoon salt 4 teaspoons sesame paste tablespoon light soy sauce tablespoon dark soy sauce 2 tablespoons chili oil with chile flakes (see page 55) 1/4

pepper

I

2 tablespoons Sichuanese /a CO/ orTianjin

1

preserved

vegetable

1

Heat oil is

I

tablespoon of peanut

oil in

a

wok

over a moderate flame. When the

hot but not yet smoking, add the chiles and Sichuan pepper and

fry briefly until the oil spices.

Add is

When

Is

Add

stir-

spicy and fragrant. Take care not to burn the

the yo cai or preserved vegetable and continue to

hot and fragrant. the meat taste.

teaspoon ground

roasted Sichuan pepper

the meat, splash

in

the soy sauce, and

stir-fry until stir-fry until

brown and a little crispy, but not too dry. Season with salt to the meat is cooked, remove the mixture from the wok and set

aside.

2 Put the sauce ingredients into a serving bowl and mix together.

3

Cook

the noodles according to the instructions on the package. Drain

them and add them to the sauce in the serving bowl. Sprinkle with the meat mixture and serve immediately. 4

When

the bowl

is

on the

table, give the

and meat are evenly distributed.

90

noodles a good

stir until

the sauce

NOODLES, DUMPLINGS. AND OTHER STREET TREATS

YIBIN "KINDLING" bin ran

yi

This noodle dish

is

dish

is

literally

mian

one of the more famous culinary exports of

the southern city ofYibin.

but ran

means to

Chinese name

Its

so called because the noodles,

^

it's

hard to translate,

is

or kindle a flame.

ignite

resemble the rush wicks used that

NOODLES

in

in

Some

their dry, oil-based sauce,

old-fashioned

oil

lamps; others

because the noodles are sometimes finished

drizzling of

smoking-hot

dling fire. The dish

oil,

easy to

is

which makes them crackle

make and

say the

robustly tasty

—

off with a like a kin-

a fine veg-

etarian lunch.

Serves 4 as a starter or a snack, 2 for a hearty lunch

4 ounces pea shoots or baby

tablespoon peanut oil 4 tablespoons Sichuanese ya cai orTianjin preserved vegetable 3 scallions, green parts only 1

spinach leaves 2-3 tablespoons lard or 10

peanut oil ounces dried Chinese noodles

FOR THE SAUCE

FOR THE TOPPING

3

2 tablespoons walnut

1

meats

tablespoons

2 teaspoons

chili oil

sesame

oil

2 tablespoons unsalted

4 teaspoons dark soy sauce

peanuts 2 tablespoons sesame seeds

4 teaspoons light soy sauce

Heat the oven to 250°F.

When

baking sheet and roast

them

grant. Turn

them onto

rice grains."

it is

hot, place the walnuts and peanuts

on

a

for 20 minutes until they are crisp and fra-

a cutting

board and chop them into

Toast the sesame seeds for 3—4 minutes

in

tiny pieces "like

a dry

wok

over a

gentle flame until they are fragrant and delicious. Set aside.

2 Heat

I

tablespoon of peanut

oil in

a

wok

over a high flame. Add the preserved

vegetable and stir-fry for about half a minute, until

it is

fragrant. Set aside.

land of plenty

Combine the sauce

3 Finely slice the scallions.

4 Blanch the green vegetable leaves immediately under the cold ual serving bowls.

Add

briefly in boiling

in

1/2

a small bowl.

water and refresh them

Drain well and divide up

tap.

l-l

ingredients

teaspoons of peanut

among 4

oil

individ-

or lard to each

bowl.

5

Cook

the noodles according to the instructions on the package. Drain

them among the serving bowls. Drizzle each bowl with a quarter of the sauce mixture, and top each one with a spoonful of chopped nuts, a spoonful of sesame seeds, a spoonful of preserved vegetable, and a spoonful of scallion slices. These toppings are traditionally

them

well and divide

added

in

separate

piles,

so the dark vegetable, pale nuts and seeds, and

green scallions create an attractive checkerboard

and

let

your guests mix everything together

effect.

Serve immediately,

at the table.

SPICY NOODLES WITH SOFT BEAN CURD dou hua mian

m^

About

Ji>^

snack

j^^

He became famous

y?^

half a

ful

way

for his

The

following dish

Chengdu.

was one of Mr. Tan's spe-

Chengdu noodle shop that and grandchildren. With its generous topping of bean curd, the snack makes a filling and vegetarian lunch. I've given instructions for making one large bowlcialties,

of noodles, but

and

his

it

is

still

name and

it's

served

is

in

run by

a small

his children

traditionally served in individual bowls. Divide every-

thing into 4 portions and let your guests mix their

wish. This dish

is

usually

made with

nese as "chive-leaf noodles"

92

in

of serving tender flower bean

curd, drizzled with fragrant oils and scattered with crunchy bits

bears

nutritious

ran a makeshift

near the Temple of Peace and Happiness

stall

of nuts and pickles.

^Qjf

man named Tan Yuxian

century ago, a

{jiu cai

flat,

own

dishes together

tagliatelle-type noodles,

ye mian tiao).

known

if

in

you Chi-

NOODLES, DUMPLINGS, AND OTHER STREETTREATS

Serves 4 as a starter or a sr)ack, 2 for a hearty /unc/i

pound

bean curd or flower bean curd (see page

1

2 tablespoons dark soy sauce

soft

2 teaspoons sesame oil FOR THE SCATTERING

126) 10

ounces dried Chinese

vegetable

FOR THE SAUCE 3 tablespoons sesame paste 3

cup Sichuanese preserved

1/4

flat

noodles

tablespoons

green parts only cup deep-fried or roasted unsalted peanuts

3 scallions, 1/4

chili oil

2 tablespoons light soy sauce

1

Set the bean curd to

simmer very

gently

in a

pot of

2 Rinse the Sichuanese preserved vegetable and chop scallions.

3

Cook

Combine

all

the sauce ingredients

in

lightly salted

it

water.

finely. Finely slice

the

a large serving bowl.

the noodles according to the instructions on the package. Then drain

them

well and place

place

it

on

them

in

the serving bowl. Drain the bean curd and

top. Scatter with the peanuts, preserved vegetable, and scallions.

Serve immediately.

MR. XIE'S SEA-FLAVOR hai wei

Because Sichuan

is

NOODLES

mian

an inland province ringed by mountains and

cut off from the plains and oceans to the east, fresh seafood has historically

ever,

was

coast,

been absent from the

traditionally

who exchanged

local diet.

Dried seafood, how-

brought to the region by traders from the it

for local

goods

like

other forest exotica. Expensive delicacies

medicinal plants and

like

dried abalone have

long been part of Sichuanese haute cuisine, and they feature

in

93

land of plenty

the earliest regional cookbook, the eighteenth-century xing yuan

Huanan. But while eating exotic dried seafood

is

still

wealthy, other fruits of the sea like dried shrimp and mussels

way

into a

few everyday

noodles because

and mussels,

The

dishes.

well-established

by

Li

following noodle dish

is

do

find their

called sea-flavor

amount of dried seafood, usually shrimp more ordinary pork and mushrooms. It's a

includes a small

it

addition to the

in

lu

the privilege of the

Chengdu

snack, but this recipe

delicious seafood noodles served by Mr. Xie

is

based on the peculiarly

noodle shop near Sichuan

in his

University.

Serves 2-4, depending on appetite

ounce dried Chinese mushroonns ounce dried shrimp 1/2 pound boneless pork

2 tablespoons

I

I

with 1/4

6 3

1

some

pound

Shaoxing rice

wine or medium-dry sherry about 1/4 quarts everyday stock (see page 3 8) or I

loin,

1

chicken stock

fat

fresh button

and pepper to taste ounces Chinese dried noodles

salt

mushrooms ounces bamboo shoots

12

tablespoons lard, chicken fat, or peanut oil Soak the dried mushrooms and shrimp for 30 minutes

to cover

in

enough hot water

them generously.

2 Cut the pork into

slices

about

1/8 inch thick. Slice the fresh

mushrooms

and bamboo shoots to match the pork. Blanch the bamboo shoot

3

boiling

water to refresh them.

When

the dried

mushrooms

are soft, slice

them

slices in

too, reserving the soaking

water.

4 Heat the

94

fat

or

oil in

a

wok

or saucepan over a high flame. When the

oil is

NOODLES, DUMPLINGS, AND OTHER STREET TREATS

pork and

hot, add the

stir-fry until

around the edges and shoots and just

stir-fry for

cooked.

Add

it

whitens. Splash the Shaoxing rice wine

Add

mushrooms and bamboo another 20-30 seconds until the mushrooms are

let

it

sizzle.

the fresh

the shrimp, dried mushrooms, soaking water, and stock.

Bring to a boil, season with salt to taste, and leave to

flame for about an hour,

5

When taste.

the meat stew Fill

until

is

the pork

is

nearly ready, season

it

with

saucepan with water and bring

a separate

simmer over

a

low

very tender.

it

salt

and pepper to

to a boil

—

this will

be

for cooking the noodles.

6

When until

the water

is

boiling,

add the noodles.

they are just done, then drain them

into four bowls,

spoon over each

a

in

Cook them

for a

few minutes

a colander. Divide the noodles

shade of the meat mixture, and then

fill

up with the soupy stock.

SPICY COLD NOODLES WITH CHICKEN SLIVERS ji si

This

is

Hang mian

an extremely easy, delicious dish that

is

distinctively

Sichuanese. Cold, moist noodles are served with blanched bean

sprouts and cooked chicken meat

in

a sauce that incorporates

many different flavors. Sichuanese cooks generally use noodles made with wheat flour and water, but egg noodles can be used as a substitute.

You can either serve these noodles

bowl or street-style

Serves 4 as a snack,

2-3

in

in

a large

4 small, individual bowls.

as a main lunch dish

95

land of plenty

about 1/2 pound fresh Chinese noodles, Shanghaistyle, a little thicker than spaghetti 1/2

I

3 1

I

tablespoons peanut or

salad

oil

I

ounces bean sprouts small cooked chicken breast

some meat

or

tablespoons dark soy sauce 1/2 tablespoon light soy sauce 1/2 tablespoons Chinkiang or black Chinese vinegar tablespoon white sugar 2-3 cloves of garlic, crushed 1/2 teaspoon ground roasted Sichuan pepper (see page 1/2

i

leftover chicken

74)

4 scallions, white and green

2-3 tablespoons

SEASONINGS

I

2 tablespoons

chili oil

chile flakes (see

parts, thinly sliced

with

page 55)

tablespoon sesame

oil

sesame paste,

thinned with

I

tablespoon

water

1

Cook

the noodles

in

plenty of boiling water until they are just

al

dente

—take

them with hot water from the kettle, colander and quickly spread them out to dry. Sprinkle over

care not to overcook them. Rinse

shake them

in

the peanut

oil

a

and mix

it

in

with chopsticks to prevent the noodles from

sticking together.

2 Blanch the bean sprouts for a few seconds cold water. Drain

them

well.

in

boiling water, then refresh in

Squash the chicken breast

with a rolling pin to loosen the fibers, and tear or cut

slightly it

or whack

into slivers

it

about

1/4 inch thick.

3

When sprouts

the noodles and bean sprouts are completely cold, in

lay

the bean

the bottom of your serving bowl or bowls. Add the noodles.

4 To serve, either combine

all

the seasonings

in

a

bowl and pour the mixture

over the noodles, or just scatter them over one by one. Top the dish with a small pile of chicken slivers and a scattering of scallions.

to toss everything together at the table.

96

Allow your guests

NOODLES, DUMPLINGS. AND OTHER STREETTREATS

VARIATIONS Vegetarians can omit the chicken and enjoy the nutty sauce.

A scattering

of toasted sesame seeds

a nice addition.

is

DUMPLINGS

GLUTINOUS RICE BALLS WITH SESAME STUFFING

MR. LAI'S

lai

J»^

tang yuan

In 1894, a young man named Lai Yuanxin traveled from his native town to Chengdu, where he took up a place as an apprentice in a

>qf^3

restaurant. Sadly,

and

lost his job.

it

rowed money from a

few

wasn't long before he

cooking

a cousin, bought a

and

utensils,

of Chengdu. Mr.

China.

Lai's

was

able to

unusually

The descendant of

out with

bamboo shoulder

started

dumplings on the streets. After making a years, he

fell

boss

his

Stuck with no means to support himself, he bor-

his

selling

way

living this

open a shop on Zongfu Street dumpling shop, which

whole selection of Sichuanese snacks, has so

far

survived

for

rice

many

the center

in

good tang yuan are now celebrated original

pole and

glutinous

now

all

over

serves a

nationalization

under the communists and ruthless competition with a new generation of restaurants (including Kentucky Fried Chicken, which has

opened

a

branch on

the floor directly above).

Tang yuan are a traditional snack quantities as part of the Lunar their

name

is

festivities. Like

treated as a luck-giving pun,

tuan yuan, which

means "reunion"

together.

Sichuan,

In rural

ing to the

over China and are eaten

all

New Year

—

in this

a fitting

many households

many

case because

in

great

festive foods, it

sounds

like

symbol for the annual family getstill

make

their dumplings accord-

time-honored traditional method, which involves soaking glutinous

and long-grained rices for several days (changing the water at regular intervals),

then stone-grinding them to a paste and squeezing this

cheesecloth to make the dough. This "damp flour" to the dried flour used as a convenience

in

the

is

in

a piece of

regarded as far superior

cities.

97

land of plenty

down on

Before the communists came to power and clamped

were

street vendors, tang yuan sellers ried their stoves, ingredients,

common

oil

lamps to

"capitalist"

Chengdu. They car-

light their

on bamboo

city

work

as the nights

in.

Makes 30-40

glutinous rice balls,

enough

for

about 6

FOR THE STUFFING

3

2 tablespoons blacl<

sesame

seeds

I

4 tablespoons

sesame paste

4 teaspoons superfine sugar

oil

sesame

FOR THE PASTE 1/2

cup tepid water

for the dip

2 tablespoons fresh pork lard

or coconut

tablespoons Ordinary white rice flour

2 tablespoons superfine sugar

I

sight in

and serving bowls around the

shoulder poles and set up flickering

drew

a

oil

cups glutinous rice flour

THE STUFFING Note

that the stuffing

advance will

it is

usually

easier to handle

made

in

if

is

it

made

a

few hours

large batches and used as

a refrigerator for months). Black

in

available in

1

Sichuan

(in

keep

much

is

needed

in

—

it

sesame seeds are commonly

Chinese supermarkets.

wok

Toast the sesame seeds

in

5-10 minutes,

constantly, until

stirring

a dry

or frying pan over a gentle flame for they smell and taste delicious.

Because they are black, you won't notice a change not to burn them

tongue to

tell

—they

will taste bitter

you when they're ready

—

if

in

color, so

do take care

overdone. Trust your nose and

the roasted aroma and taste are

unmistakable.

2

When (this

the seeds are done, use a mortar and pestle to grind them coarsely

can be done

seeds to a powder

in

a food processor, but take care not to reduce the

—they

taste better with a

little

crunch).

Add

the sugar

to the crushed seeds and mix well.

3

98

Heat the

lard

or coconut

oil

over a gentle flame

until

melted, and then

stir

NOODLES, DUMPLINGS, AND OTHER STREET TREATS

making

into the seed mixture. Press the stuffing firmly into a baking sheet a layer

about 3/4 inch

thick,

and refrigerate

When

until set.

you are ready

to stuff the tang yuan, use a table knife to cut the stuffing into 3/4-Jnch cubes.

MAKING THE tang yuan 1

Mix the two flours together. Add the water and

dough (you can add a

little

more

to

stir

make

a soft, squishy

glutinous rice flour or water

if

you need

to adjust the consistency).

2 Divide the dough into 2 or 3 parts. Working on a surface dusted with rice

about

flour or glutinous rice flour, roll each part into a sausage

I

1/2

inches thick and break off pieces the size of small walnuts.

3 Take

one piece of dough,

indentation

in

flatten

center. Place a

its

slightly

it

and use your thumb to make an

cube of

stuffing in this indentation

then draw the sides of the dough up around Roll is

it

no

gently between your palms to

stuffing

make

peeking out or the dumpling

a

to enclose

round

ball.

bamboo

it

and

completely.

(Make sure there

will disintegrate

Lay the finished tang yuan on a tray or

it.)

flour until

it

when you cook

platter dusted with

you are ready to cook them (they can be made

in

advance and

frozen or refrigerated).

MAKING THE DIP Combine the sesame toasted sesame consistency

served

in

if

or

oil

you

paste and sugar oil

like. (In

a small

rice

in

a tiny serving bowl, adding

from the sesame paste

jar to give a

enough

good dipping

snack restaurants each helping of 2-4 dumplings

bowl with an accompanying

tiny saucer of

is

sesame

paste and sugar.)

COOKING THE I

Fill

a large

a time,

tang yuan

pot with water and bring

and simmer them for about

bubble vigorously or

pot and throw

in

it

will

1

it

to a

boil.

5 minutes.

Add

Do

rupture the dumplings

half a coffee-cupful of cold

the tang yuan, one at

not allow the water to

— keep

water

an eye on the

as necessary to calm

the water down.

99

land of plenty

2 Serve the tang yuan

in

small bowls

some

with

filled

water to keep them warm. Your guests should with chopsticks and dip them

in

lift

of the hot cooking

them out of the water

the sesame paste to eat.

VARIATIONS Several tang yuan

fillings

are used

most based on

Sichuan,

in

a simple mix-

ture of white sugar and lard. For rose-flavored stuffing, add to the sugarlard base a small finely

amount of candied rose

add

petals; for tangerine stuffing,

minced candied tangerine and crushed rock sugar; for cherry

stuffing

use glace cherries; for three-nut stuffing add walnuts, melon seeds, and

peanuts that you have roasted and crushed to a coarse meal.

Mr. Lai used to

soms and

make tang yuan

stuffings

out of sweet-scented osmanthus blos-

jujube (Chinese date) paste, and then serve

ferent types of tang yuan

in

the same bowl

(this

is

one of each of four

known

as

si

dif-

wei tang yuan,

four-flavor tang yuan). Four-flavor tang yuan can be given an extra flourish by

molding each type of dumpling into a

slightly different shape,

so there are egg-

shaped and pointed tang yuan as well as the ordinary round ones.

"ZHONG" CRESCENT DUMPLINGS zhong shui jiao Boiled crescent dumplings {jiao dish

J

_

yj^

in

dough,

northern China. roll

are often plate, tray,

^fj*^

^-^^

out the circular

made and

in

flat

zi)

Whole skins,

is

the traditional

families gather to

New Year knead the

and wrap the dumplings, which

such huge quantities that they cover every surface

in

the kitchen and dining room.

The

dumplings are devoured piping hot, with dips of soy sauce, vinegar,

and perhaps a

filling

little

sesame or

for the dumplings

is

a

chili oil.

The

favorite northern

mixture of ground pork and Chi-

nese cabbage, but there are countless variations. Chinese Muslims, for exam-

make their \\ao zi with lamb instead of pork, while country people in some areas of Gansu province make unusually large \\ao zi, each about 4 ple,

inches long.

100

NOODLES, DUMPLINGS. AND OTHER STREET TREATS

The Sichuanese distinctively

wrapped

have, with their

customary

own

developed their

Ingenuity,

Sichuanese way of preparing and serving j/oo z/.The dumplings are

ground pork

small and dainty, with a very plain

with a heavenly sauce of

chili oil,

and are served

filling,

aromatic soy sauce, and

garlic.

According to scholars, Chinese people have been eating dumpling for

at least fourteen

hundred years. The

style

type of

this

was popular during

—

when it spread all over the region apparwooden bowl filled with j;oo zi in a Tang Dynasty remote Turpan! Zhong dumplings have a rather more

the Tang Dynasty (618-907 A.D.), ently archaeologists found a

tomb they excavated recent history a peddler

Lane far

has

you want to be

four tiny dumplings

in

in

1893.

central

He

a

little

is

later still

opened

trading

in

shop

a

Lychee

in

a side street

not

Chengdu.

really traditional,

in

was invented by

that this Sichuanese variation

descendant of which

from the Mao statue If

it

named Zhong Xiesen

zhi gai), the

(/;

in

— legend

you must serve each guest with about

bowl, with

I

or 2 teaspoons of dipping sauce.

This has echoes of the origins of the dish as a street snack sold

too much

in tiny,

inex-

make them as I've suggested below with larger dumpling skins (which you can make yourself or buy in Chinese supermarkets), and serve them in hearty bowlfuls with a genpensive portions. But

if

you

find these

fuss, just

erous slosh of the spicy sauce. If

you use store-bought dumpling wrappers,

and easy to prepare. Making your trouble, but lective

it's

will possibly

takes a

extremely quick

little

more time and make a col-

great fun to enlist friends and family to help you

dumpling lunch.

while to buy

own wrappers

j;oo zi are

If

I'm having a

dumpling party,

more dumpling wrappers and need

—any excess can

you have any wrapped dumplings

fresh

I

always find

ground pork than

it

worth-

I

be frozen and used another time.

left

over, they can be frozen

think

And

I

if

raw and then

boiled straight from the freezer for a quick and delicious snack.

Do remember

that

if

any of your guests don't

like

eating chiles, they can

dip their dumplings into a northern-style mixture of soy sauce and black vinegar.

Serves 4

land of plenty

60-80 circular flour-and-water dumpling wrappers (about four 7-ounce packages) (instructions for

6-8 turns of a black pepper mill

pound ground pork FOR THE DIP I

making

your own dumpling wrappers are given after

I

tablespoons sweet, aromatic soy sauce (see page 76) or 3 tablespoons light soy sauce and 2 teaspoons sugar 1/2 tablespoons chili oil

1

teaspoon sesame

3

this recipe)

FOR THE FILLING a 4-inch piece of fresh ginger, unpeeled

egg tablespoon Shaoxing rice wine or medium-dry sherry 3/4 teaspoon salt

mixed with 1-2 teaspoons cold water

I

1

Smash the ginger with the leave to soak for a

flat

side of a cleaver blade or a heavy object and

few minutes

2 Mix the egg, wine, and

in

about

I

cup of cold water.

and pepper into the pork, and then gradually add

salt

the ginger-water (discarding the crushed pieces), so

meat to form bowl

—always

a fragrant, floppy paste.

add the

oil

2 cloves garlic, crushed and

I

it

is

absorbed by the

Mix the dipping ingredients

garlic at the last

in

a

little

minute to make the most of

its

strong, fresh fragrance.

3

Place a dumpling skin ing.

Fold

one

on your hand and add a generous teaspoon of

flat

make one or two tucks to meet the other side and make a little,

side of the skin over the meat,

and then press

it

tightly

moon-shaped dumpling. You can pinches

if

dumpling with a series of

you wish. Make sure you pinch the skins together

ooze

out. Lay the dumplings, separately,

filling

can't

plate,

or work surface.

4 Heat a generous pot of water to

water

seal the

briskly,

and place

in

a vigorous boil

on

tightly

fill-

in

it,

halflittle

so the

a lightly floured tray,

over a high flame.

a couple of handfuis of dumplings. Stir

Stir

the

once to

prevent them from sticking to the bottom of the pot. When the water has returned to a

102

boil,

throw

in

a coffee-cupful of cold water.

Allow the water to

NOODLES, DUMPLINGS, AND OTHER STREET TREATS

When

return to a boil again, and add another coffee-cupful of cold water.

water has returned to

a boil for the third time, the

glossy and puckered and the

dumpling

in half

to

make

dumpling skins

meat should have cooked through

sure.

Remove from

the

will

be

—cut one

the pot with a slotted spoon,

drain well, and serve steaming hot with the spicy, aromatic dip. (Take note:

the cold water

is

added to prevent the water from

boiling

too vigorously and

tearing the dumplings apart.) Continue cooking the dumplings until

This recipe

OWN DUMPLING WRAPPERS

makes enough dough

pound all-purpose (about 2

1

batches

your guests are incapable of eating any more.

TO MAKE YOUR

I

in

1/2

to

wrap the

3/4 teaspoon salt about 2/3 pint cold water

flour

cups)

Put the flour and

salt

onto

stuffing in the recipe above.

a pastry board,

add enough cold water to make a

stiff

make

a well in the center,

and

but pliable dough. Mix well, and

—

smooth and elastic the more thoroughly you knead, the better the dough. Cover with a damp kitchen knead for several minutes

until

the dough

is

towel and leave to rest for about 20 minutes.

2 Rolling out the dough: to make the traditional, tiny Sichuanese dumplings, roll

the dough into long sausages about as thick as your thumb, and break

off small pieces the size of cherries. Flatten these with the

hand on a

lightly

floured surface, and

roll

palm of your

with a rolling pin to form discs

them up as you work, adding small sprinklings of flour as necessary to prevent them from sticking together. If you wish to save time and make the larger, northern-style dumplings, break off slightly larger pieces of dough and roll them into discs 2 1/2-3 inches in about 2 inches

diameter.

in

diameter. Pile

Remember

that the tiny Sichuanese dumplings will take less time

to cook through than the northern ones (you

will

probably need to add

only one coffee-cupful of cold water before they are done).

103

— land of plenty

"LONG"WONTON DUMPLINGS long chao shou

Wontons

most ancient type of dumpling.

are probably China's

According to Chinese scholars, they have been eaten

Kingdom

dle

^#L^

Western Han Dynasty (206

since the

in

which makes them even older than the northern-style

>'

about the

fifth

century

A.D.,

they were a

common

the Mid-

b.c.-a.d. 24), jiao

zi.

By

snack, and over

the next couple of hundred years were reaching great levels of

:^C

~J

sophistication

—one Tang

styles with different

Dynasty source mentions twenty-four

forms and different

These days wonton dumplings are eaten wonderful

names

in

different

oil.

They are

dialect

called by different

name

is

chao

shou.

with a simple pork stuffing seasoned with gin-

filled

The meat

local chefs achieve this

Sichuanese

the

regions:

Sichuanese chao shou are ger and sesame

over China, prized for their

all

slippery "mouth-feel" {kou gon).

silky,

fillings.

is

extremely

finely

ground, almost to a puree

by pounding lean pork with the back of a cleaver

blade. Because the back of the blade

is

blunt, the wispy white

broken but can be plucked out with the

tendons are not

fingers, leaving unbelievably

tender

mince.

The

recipe given

in

for

wontons

dish.

Long Chao Shou restaurant

1941.

sauce

is

most famous wonton

Sichuan's derful

below

is

I

in

a savory stock {long chao shou),

They are the

in

central

star attraction at the

have also offered several classic variations

one of my personal

favorites.

stock and a few seasonings on hand,

—the wontons

you happen to have

If

won-

Chengdu, which was established

a

in chili oil

generous pot of

easy to serve several of these at one

it is

meal, to the inevitable delight of your guests. If

you are buying wonton wrappers, always make sure you select the

thinnest available.

Wontons wrapped

in

thicker skins are

lack the exquisite "mouth-feel" of finer versions,

the

ball

of stuffing, their edges fluttering free like

course make your

making them

mend

it

from the

104

own wonton wrappers

sufficiently thin

for the casual cook. freezer.

and strong

Wontons

which frilly

tasty,

still

ruffle

goldfish

up and tails.

but they cling to

You can of

(instructions are given below), but is

quite an art, and

I

don't recom-

can be frozen raw and boiled directly

NOODLES. DUMPLINGS, AND OTHER STREET TREATS

Serves 4-6, depending on greed

about 80 wonton wrappers (two to four 7-ounce packages, depending on thickness of wrappers) FOR THE FILLING

6-8 turns of a black pepper mill

cup cold everyday stock (page 3 8) or chicken stock TO SERVE IN SAVORY STOCK 2 1/2 cups piping hot everyday stock (see page 3 8) or 1/2

1

a 4-inch piece of fresh ginger, unpeeled I

pound

1

egg, beaten

1

ground pork

finely

chicken stock

cup fresh pork lard or peanut oil freshly ground black pepper 1/4

2 teaspoons Shaoxing rice

wine or medium-dry sherry 2 teaspoons 3/4

1

sesame

teaspoon

salt

oil

salt

Crush the ginger with the it

to soak for a few minutes

2 Place the ground pork

in

side of a cleaver or a heavy object and leave

flat

about

in

1/2

cup of cold water.

bowl and add the beaten egg, wine, ginger-

a

soaking water (pieces discarded), sesame using your hand to stir the stuffing briskly

stock

in

oil, salt,

in

one

and pepper. Mix

well,

direction, then add the

several stages, making sure each batch has been fully absorbed by

the meat before you continue.

3 There are several ways of stuffing the wontons. Here are three, starting

with the easiest:

i

Lay the

wonton

center, and then

together. This

is

flip

skin flat

Lay the

spoon of

in half

the speedy

Long Chao Shou restaurant,

ii

on your hand. Place

the skin

wonton

filling in

a

teaspoon of

diagonally, pressing the

two

filling in

the

sides lightly

method used by the dumpling-makers at the thousands of wontons every day.

who wrap

skin flat

on your hand. Place

slightly less

the center, and then bring the sides up to

gathered bag. Squeeze the neck gently to keep the bundle

in

than a tea-

make

a

little

place.

105

—— land of plenty

Hi

The

one

third

nuts enjoyed

in

called

is

"water caltrop shape" after the strange horned

eastern China.

4 Lay the wrapped wontons out, separately, on

work

floured plates, trays, or

lightly

surfaces.

5 Bring a generous pot of water to a boil over a high flame, and set the stock to simmer gently place ing

in

and

When

the water

boiling vigorously,

is

each of 4 serving bowls the following seasonings: a 1/4 cup of pip-

hot stock,

mill,

another pot.

in

salt

teaspoons of

1/2

I

lard

or peanut

5 turns of the

oil,

6 To cook the dumplings, give the boiling water a good dumplings, and

to a

stir

throw

boil,

pepper

to taste.

once to prevent

in

sticking.

When

stir,

drop

10

in

the water has returned

one coffee-cupful of cold water. Allow the water to

return to a boil once more, and the dumplings should be cooked through (test

place

one to make

Remove from

sure).

the water with a slotted spoon,

one of the prepared bowls, and serve. Repeat to

in

bowls. When your guests are ready for

more dumplings,

just

few batches and top up their serving bowls, adding more

salt

fill

the other

cook another and pepper

if

necessary.

VARIATIONS Wontons in

qing tang chao show, place

clear stock

each serving bowl

in

the following seasonings: 2 teaspoons Sichuanese ya cai or Tianjin pre-

served vegetable, 2 teaspoons finely sliced scallion greens,

sesame

oil,

1/2

teaspoon

turns of the pepper

mill,

light

and

soy sauce,

salt

1/3

I

teaspoon

cup piping hot clear stock, 4

to taste. The soup

is

light

and refreshing,

with an enticing flash of sourness from the preserved vegetables.

Wontons

in chili oil

sauce

hong you chao shou: place

the following seasonings: 2 teaspoons

page 55); 2 teaspoons

flakes (see

light

chili

it.

aftertaste.

106

This

is

in

each serving bowl

with or without the chile

soy sauce,

sugar; and 2 teaspoons stock. You can add a feel like

oil,

little

I

1/2

crushed

teaspoons white garlic, too,

a perfect winter dish, hot and spicy with a lingering

if

you

sweet

NOODLES, DUMPLINGS, AND OTHER STREET TREATS

Wontons

in

hot-and-sour soup

bowl the following seasonings:

suan

1/2

la

chao shou: place

teaspoon of soy sauce,

in I

each serving

teaspoons

1/2

Chinkiang or black Chinese vinegar, 1/2 teaspoon lard or peanut

teaspoon sesame

oil,

oil,

1/2

2 teaspoons chopped scallion greens, 1/4 cup piping

hot stock, lots of freshly ground black pepper or white pepper (10-20 turns of the pepper mill to taste), and salt to taste. This variation

ered to be a pleasant

consid-

dish.

OWN WONTON WRAPPERS

TO MAKE YOUR 1

summer

is

pound of all-purpose flour (about 2 1/2 cups) on a large pastry and make a well in the center. Add one beaten egg and about cup board cold water. Mix the egg and water with your fingertips, then draw in the Place

I

I

mix to

flour and

a stiff

dough (you can add a

little

more

flour or

water

if

necessary to get the right consistency). Knead vigorously for several minutes, then

cover with a damp kitchen towel and set aside for about 30

minutes.

2

Roll the it is

thin

dough out on and

a surface dusted with potato

slightly translucent.

Cut the paste

wide (about the width of your four

fingers),

or all-purpose

flour, until

into strips about 2 1/2 inches

and then cut these into squares.

LEAF-WRAPPED GLUTINOUS RICE DUMPLINGS ye'er

Sometimes you can ner, a

still

vendor of these

ba

catch, fleetingly

on

a

Chengdu

street cor-

glistening, greenish dumplings. He'll have a

huge, round steamer balanced on the back of his tricycle, steaming I?

^^ j.

>p^

away over

a

portable stove.

The steamer

sausage-shaped dumplings, each half-wrapped leaf,

will in

be packed with

a piece of fragrant

Some are sweet, stuffed with sesame or blossoms; some are filled with a salty mix

sold for a few j/oo apiece.

seeds, candied fruits,

of pork and pickled vegetables. They are eaten there and then, nibbled from the

leaf,

the moist

filling

oozing out from the succulent rice paste.

107

land of plenty

These days they are

also served in specialized restaurants, at banquets of tradi-

tional snacks. Each guest

is

served with a pair of ye'er ba

sweet and one savory, the sweet one distinguished by a coloring. The dumplings are traditionally

grains milled with water; using flour

are

still

delectable.

The dough

is

is

single spot of pink

mixed with vegetable

12 large or

20

juices to stain

package frozen banana leaves peanut oil optional: pink food coloring

Asian food shops.

teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons Sichuanese ya cai orTianjin preserved vegetable

optional: 1/4 cup packed

2 scallions, white parts only

teaspoon sesame oil a few turns of a black pepper

spinach leaves

1/2

cup glutinous rice flour 1/2 cup white rice flour tablespoon melted lard or peanut oil I

mill

FORTHE SWEET STUFFING

I

4 tablespoons toasted

FOR THE SAVORY STUFFING peanut

candied fruits or flowers cup white sugar 2 tablespoons all-purpose

oil

pound ground pork

1/2

teaspoons Shaoxing rice wine or medium-dry sherry 1/2 teaspoon light soy sauce 1/2 teaspoon dark soy sauce 1/2

Make

the savory stuffing:

the pork and

stir-fry.

wine, soy sauces, and

few seconds more

Heat the

When salt.

until

to taste.

flour

4-5 tablespoons softened lard or peanut

lard

or

oil in

a

wok

oil

over a high flame. Add

the meat has separated, add the Shaoxing rice

Add

it is

everything into a bowl and

sesame

seeds or 2-3 ounces candied cherries or other

2-3 tablespoons lard or

108

a pale

1/2

FOR THE DOUGH

I

in

it

durDplings

little

I

I

food

ba can be frozen raw and steamed directly from the freezer.

Makes about

1/3

one

a tiny dish,

made from a fresh paste of soaked rice a modern convenience, but the results

green color, "like jade." Frozen banana leaves can be bought Ye'er

in

the preserved vegetable and

fragrant and the

stir in

meat

is

stir-fry for a

cooked through. Place

the scallions, sesame

oil,

and black pepper

NOODLES, DUMPLINGS. AND OTHER STREET TREATS

2

/Vioke the

sweet

stuffing:

tar and pestle to

chop them very and mix

split

finely.

If

you are using sesame seeds, crush them

the individual grains.

If

Combine the sugar and

well. Finally, stir in the

Cut the

oil.

fruits,

the lard

sesame seeds or candies.

3 Blanch the leaves: Blanch the banana leaves briefly splash of

Add

flour in a bowl.

mor-

a

in

you are using candied

leaves into 4-inch squares

if

in

boiling

water with a

you want to make larger

dumplings, 2 1/2-inch squares for dainty banquet snacks.

4 (Optional) Make the spinach

dye: Put the spinach leaves into a

food proces-

sor with 3 tablespoons of water and whizz to a bright green paste. Strain the paste through a sieve lined with a double layer of cheesecloth. Add 1/2

cup of water to the strained

5

Make

liquid.

Combine the two

the dough:

flours in a mixing bowl.

spinach liquid and just enough extra water to like

dough.

(If

dough.) Mix

6

you are not using spinach,

in

the lard or

make

stiff

but putty-

add enough water to make the

the upper side of

the leafy squares. Break

all

dough, 2-3 tablespoons for larger dumplings,

spoons for dainty snacks.

Roll each piece into a ball

the palm of your hand, making a gentle indentation

other thumb. Place about a teaspoon of stuffing tly

a fairly

the green

oil.

/Vioke the dumplings: Lightly oil

off small pieces of

just

Add

in

and in

flatten

I

it

1/2 tableslightly in

the center with your

the indentation and gen-

ease up the sides of the circle to close the dumpling. Gently

roll

dumpling between your hands to make a short croquette shape. Place

one of the

oiled leaves,

open, and place neat, closely

you wish, put

it in

wrapping the

leaf

a steamer. Arrange

all

the

it

on

up the sides but leaving the top the dumplings

in

the steamer

in

packed rows, keeping the sweet and savory ones separate. a spot of pink

If

food coloring on each of the sweet dumplings.

7 Cook the dumplings: Steam the ye'er ba for 15 minutes over water kept at a

good

rolling boil.

Serve them

in

their leaves and eat piping hot.

109

land of plenty

STEAMED PORK AND PUMPKIN DUMPLINGS nan gua zheng jiao

The Sichuanese wrap these steanned dumplings

in

a pastry

made

by adding flour to a wokful of boiling water {san sheng mian). After cooking,

it

has a soft, glutinous texture that goes nicely

with the salt-savory, succulent stuffing is

usually

made with

gua), but zucchini

in this

The

recipe.

stuffing

an orange-fleshed variety of pumpkin {nan

works very

well too. The

raw dumplings can be

frozen and steamed directly from the freezer.

Makes 25-30 dumplings

FOR THE PASTRY WRAPPERS cup water

1/2

teaspoon light soy sauce teaspoon dark soy sauce 1/2 teaspoon salt 6-8 turns of a black pepper mill or a few pinches of white pepper 4 teaspoons finely chopped scallion, white and green

I

I

1

I

teaspoons lard or peanut oil 1/4 cups all-purpose flour 1/2

I

FOR THE STUFFING 1/3 pound pumpkin or zucchini flesh

peanut oil for frying 2 teaspoons finely chopped

lard or

parts

fresh ginger

1

Peel and finely boiling

I

chop the pumpkin or

water and drain them

2 Season the wok, then heat flame.

Add

the ginger and

stir-fry for a

Add

rated out.

Then add the pumpkin or

the pork and

oil

zucchini. Blanch the pieces briefly in

3 tablespoons of lard

or peanut

few seconds

stir-fry for a

cool and then add the soy sauces,

NO

teaspoon sesame

well.

fragrance.

well.

pound ground pork

until

minute or two

oil

over a high

you can smell until

it

its

has sepa-

zucchini and stir-fry briefly. Allow to

salt,

pepper, scallion, and sesame

oil.

Mix

NOODLES, DUMPLINGS, AND OTHER STREET TREATS

3

Make

the pastry: Bring the

When

water and

wok. When the water

a boil in a

everything

is

is

I

1/2

teaspoons of

boiling, gradually

add

lard

or peanut

oil

to

the flour, stirring.

in

mixed together and piping hot, transfer

it

onto

a

work

As soon as it is cool enough to handle, knead to make a smooth dough. Working on a lightly floured surface, break the dough into about three surface.

pieces and

these out into sausages about

roll

I

inch thick. Break the sausages

into walnut-sized pieces. Flatten each with the palm of

make round dumpling

use a rolling pin to

skins

about 2

good

ter.

(Unless you are working very quickly,

ing

dough with a damp kitchen towel to prevent

4 Place about a teaspoon of the skin gently

in half

it's

stuffing into the

and, starting at

a

it

your hand and then 1/2 inches in

idea to cover the remain-

from drying

join the

two

with a series of pinches. Place the finished dumpling on your pushing

it

slightly

to give

it

a

flat

ously described as a crescent

5 Place the finished dumplings don't touch

skin. Fold

sides together

work

surface,

base. You should end up with a shape vari-

moon in

out.)

center of each dumpling

one end,

diame-

(yue ya)

or a bean pod {dou jia).

a lightly oiled steamer,

making sure they

one another. When you are ready to eat them, steam them

about 6 minutes over a high flame

for

until piping hot.

STEAMED PORK AND CABBAGE DUMPLINGS xiao long zheng jiao

^h

Four of these dumplings are usually served together

steamer

{xiao long).

described

'^^

in

in

a small

Make the pastry and wrap the dumplings

as

the previous recipe, but substitute the following

stuffing.

Makes 25-30 dumplings

land of plenty

1/4

pound tender leaves of

teaspoon light soy sauce teaspoon dark soy sauce 1/2 teaspoon salt teaspoon sesame oil 6-8 turns of a black pepper mill or a few pinches of white pepper I

Chinese cabbage or baby bok choy 3 tablespoons lard or peanut oil 1/2 pound ground pork 2 teaspoons Shaoxing rice wine or medium-dry sherry

1

I

I

Blanch the vegetable leaves briefly

under a cold

ately

tap.

Chop

finely

boiling water,

in

and then refresh immedi-

and squeeze to get

rid of

2 Season the wok, then heat 3 tablespoons of lard or

Add

the pork and

minute or two

stir-fry for a

adding the wine, soy sauces, and

add the chopped

leaves,

sesame

salt as

oil,

until

any excess water.

oil

over a high flame.

it

has separated out,

you go. Tip the pork into a bowl,

and pepper, and mix

well.

POT-STICKER DUMPLINGS

WITH CHICKEN STOCK ji

^*A

These dumplings are

^vl

associated with

method

zhi guo

tie

more usually made by a cooking

a Sichuanese version of a kind

eastern

China. They are

that part steams, part pan-fries them, so they end up

moist and tender with golden, toasty bottoms.

In

are served with a bowl of simple chicken soup {dun

Sichuan they ji

tong).

also taste delicious with a dip of vinegar, soy sauce, and

mixed according to

taste. In

Sichuan, the dumplings are

with a hot water dough {tang mian) that gives them a glutinous texture. You can also

wrap them

in

They

chili oil,

made slightly

store-bought round

dumpling wrappers (which are made with cold-water dough) and

cook them according to the following dumplings the West.

112

like

recipe.

These wrappers

the "pot-sticker" dumplings served

in

will give

you

Chinese restaurants

in

NOODLES. DUMPLINGS. AND OTHER STREET TREATS

Makes 25-30 dumplings lard or

peanut

cup chicken stock (stock should not be hot) 1/2 teaspoons Shaoxing rice wine or medium-dry sherry 3/4 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon white sugar 6-8 twists of a black pepper 1/4

oil

FOR THE PASTRY cups all-purpose flour teaspoon salt cup water

1/4

I

1/4 1/2

I

FOR THE STUFFING a

I

-inch piece of fresh ginger,

unpeeled scallion, white part only 1/3 pound ground pork I

1

Crush the ginger and

or a couple of pinches of white pepper 1/2 teaspoons sesame oil mill

I

scallion with the flat side of a cleaver blade

heavy object and leave to soak for 5-10 minutes

2 Make the

stuffing:

Place the pork

from the ginger and

a bowl.

Add

it.

in

or a

cup of cold water.

1/4

the fragrant soaking water

scallion, discarding the pieces,

been absorbed. Gradually pour the pork to absorb

in

in

and mix well

until

has

it

the chicken stock, mixing well to allow

You should end up with

a loose,

moist stuffing.Add

all

the seasonings and mix well.

3

Make make

Combine the

the pastry:

heat to

let

it

handle, transfer

it

to

thick.

Break

your hand.

off

remove

onto the

it

flour.

it

Mix

bowl and

from the in

quickly

a lightly floured surface, break the

pieces. Roll each

one out

Into a sausage about

to

dough I

inch

teaspoon-sized pieces and flatten them with the palm of

Roll the flattened pieces into circles

eter. (Unless

a boil,

wooden spoon. When the mixture is cool enough a work surface and knead to a smooth dough.

4 Make the wrappers: Working on

two or three

a large mixing

in

water to

stop bubbling, and then pour

with the handle of a

into

flour and salt

a well in the center. Bring the

you are working very

remaining dough with a

damp

quickly,

it's

about 2 a

1/2 inches in

good

kitchen towel to prevent

diam-

idea to cover the

it

from drying

out.)

5 Place about a teaspoon of stuffing into the center of each dumpling skin. Fold the skin gently

in

half and, starting at

one end,

join the

two

sides

13

land of plenty

together with a series of pinches. Place the finished dumpling on your work surface, pushing

slightly

it

to give

it

a flat base.

6 Cook the dumplings: Heat a heavy, flat-bottomed frying pan or

medium ously.

flame.

When

Pour

the

enough

in

oil

rows. Drizzle them

is

lard

hot, arrange

minutes.

Then remove the

replace the

lid,

little

all

lid

over a

skillet

to coat the surface gener-

oil

the dumplings

warm water

with

dumplings. Cover the pan with a

dumplings with a

or peanut

—2-3

in

the pan

in

neat

tablespoons for every 5

and steam over a medium heat for 4-5

lid

to allow the steam to escape, drizzle the

(about 1/2 tablespoon for every 5 dumplings),

oil

and fry for 2-3 minutes more,

bottoms are

their

until

move the pan around the remove them with a spatula and

toasty and golden brown. As the dumplings cook,

hot plate to brown them evenly. To serve,

them upside down onto

turn

you can see their golden

a serving plate, so

bottoms. Serve immediately.

"GLASSY" STEAMED DUMPLINGS bo

t Sj3\,

li

shao mai

The day our pastry teacher

offered us samples of these dumplings

at the Sichuan cooking school, there

was

a near-riot as

dents pounced. The dumplings are shaped

the stu-

all

old-fashioned

like

mon-

eybags with gathered necks, stuffing peeping out enticingly from their tops.

^^

^^

or

fat in

the stuffing mixture makes them moist

also seeps into their skins, is

why they

version

is

the Cantonese

traditionally

siu

filled

all

with glutinous

over China: the best-known

mai, which are tightly packed with

topped with a

Sichuan, "glassy" shao mai are the

sweet shao mai

making them semi-

are called "glassy" dumplings.

Shao mai dumplings are found

pork and In

oil it

translucent, which

^^ >^t^

The

and delicious:

little

bright orange crab coral.

most common, but you can

rice, nuts,

and candied

fruits,

also find

and banquet

shao mai with green pasta skins and a scattering of pink chopped ham.

Sichuanese cooks traditionally make "glassy" shao mai with a mixture of

raw lean pork and cooked 14

fatty pork,

both

finely

chopped.

In

the following

NOODLES, DUMPLINGS. AND OTHER STREET TREATS

recipe,

I

have used a

requires only the

slightly different

slightly

method

streaky ground

that

equally delicious but

is

pork that

easily

is

available

in

butcher shops and supermarkets. At the suggestion of head chef Fan Shixian at the

Long Chao Shou restaurant,

I

provide the slick "mouth-feel" that unlikely event that

have added a is

little

extra vegetable

an essential part of this dish.

you have any of the uncooked dumplings

left

oil

In

to

the

over, they can

be frozen and steamed directly from the freezer.

Makes 30-40 dumplings

FOR THE WRAPPERS

FOR THE STUFFING 8 ounces tender leaves of

1/4 cups all-purpose flour about 1/2 cup cold water (or just use about 40 storebought round dumpling wrappers made from flourand-water, about 2 1/2 inches in diameter) potato flour or cornstarch for I

dusting the

1

To

make

baby bok choy or another leafy green vegetable such as baby spinach or Swiss chard 14 ounces ground pork 2 tablespoons Shaoxing rice wine or medium-dry sherry salt and pepper 1/2 cup peanut oil 2 teaspoons sesame oil

work surface

the stuffing: Blanch the vegetable leaves briefly in hot water,

immediately refresh under the cold water, and then chop

1/2

teaspoons of

and

Drain well, squeeze out excess

finely.

2 Place about a quarter of the pork I

tap.

salt,

in

a

bowl and add

I

tablespoon of wine,

and several turns of the pepper

mill.

Mix well and

set aside.

3 Season the wok, then add the peanut

remaining ground pork and

cooked, splashing the pork

is

in

I

done, add

oil

and heat over a high flame. Add the

stir-fry until

tablespoon wine and it

it

has separated out and

1/2

teaspoon

salt as

you

go.

to the raw pork with the peanut and sesame

is

just

When

oils.

Add

the chopped leaves and mix everything together with a pair of chopsticks.

lis

land of plenty

4 To make the dough: Put the flour into

Add

center.

dough to a and

it

let rest for

make

5 To

enough cold water to make a

just

floured

lightly

minutes, until

work

smooth and

is

the wrappers:

about

Cover with

elastic.

I

or 4 pieces and

3

pile

a

wooden spoon

so you can whack

all

roll

-inch pieces. Flatten circle

about 2

bought dumpling

circle thinner

appearance

skins,

pile,

turning

than the center and gives the

When

"like a lotus leaf." in

diameter.

you can whack them

in

(If

you have

finished,

you are using store-

the same manner to make

larger and their edges thinner.)

7 To wrap the dumplings: Place a dumpling wrapper Place a generous teaspoon of

filling in

neck of the bundle and then push stands up straight. call this

The

filling

its

in

little

bundle. Gently squeeze the

base onto the

work

surface so that

frilly

are reminiscent of Chinese leaf cabbages.) Place as lightly oiled

steamer

tops and firm bases

many dumplings

remove the

lid

and sprinkle them with a

little

3 minutes.

Serve piping hot.

3

min-

cold water, taking

care to wash away any remnants of the dusting flour. Replace the

steam for another

as will

tray.

8 To steam the dumplings: Steam the dumplings over a high flame for utes, then

it

should peep out of the top. (The Sichuanese

shape "white cabbage shape" because the

comfortably into a

the palm of one hand.

the center and use the fingers of the

other hand to draw the edges up into a

116

1/2

edge of the work surface.

at the

it

to whack the edges of each

the circles should be 3 1/2-4 inches

fit

I

out into a

the way round a couple of times. This process

makes the outer part of each circle a slightly frilly

them

each one into a sausage

roll

layer.

of about 10 circles and put

Use the handle of pile

kitchen towel

diameter. Pile up the circles with a dusting of potato flour or

cornstarch between each

the

damp

a

inch thick. Break or cut each sausage into

each piece with the palm of your hand and in

dough. Transfer the

surface and knead vigorously for about 10

Dust the work surface with potato flour or corn-

Break the dough into

6 Take a

fairly stiff

a well in the

30 minutes.

starch.

inches

bowl and make

a nnixing

lid

and

NOODLES, DUMPLINGS, AND OTHER STREET TREATS

"THREE CANNONSHOTS" son da pao

^

One

"•""''^

cool spring morning

Long Chuan

JLk

Yi, just

went with some

the peach blossoms. This annual

^^-

tors,

friends to the

hills

of

festival attracts

crowds of

visi-

and the whole area had been mobilized to cater for them.

Makeshift teahouses and snack shops had been erected on the

1*.^

AQ^

edges of the

hilly

orchards, artisans milled around selling tradi-

tional children's toys in

I

east of Chengdu, to celebrate the opening of

made from paper and bamboo. Down below

the town, a temporary food market sold Sichuanese snacks and other local

produce. Although there wasn't a single peach blossom to be seen, anywhere,

because of a recent run of cold weather,

we

various unusual snacks and dumplings, which

the

first

place.

Many Chinese excursions

excuses for eating It

warm

was

at

in

did have a splendid day sampling I

suppose was

appear,

Long Chuan

Yi that

I

first in

encountered "three cannonshots,"

golden soybean flour and draped

dark sugar syrup. They are traditionally made

who pound

and then shape force onto a

The

into

it

wooden

the end, to be clever

unusual places and situations.

blobs of glutinous rice rolled

craftsmen

in

really the point in

the

warm

little

board,

rice to a

in

in

a

flamboyant style by food

rough paste with wooden cudgels

balls. The individual balls are tossed with some where they bounce into a potful of soybean flour.

in threes on little plates, with a generous As you might guess, they get their name from the thudding the rice balls make as they hit the wooden board.

flour-dusted balls are served

drizzling of syrup.

sound that

Serves 4 for dessert

Ml cup glutinous 2 tablespoons

1

Soak the

rice

until

it is

tablespoons dark brown sugar

rice overnight in plenty of water.

2 Dry-roast the soybean flour

will

3

soybean flour

in

a

heavy-bottomed pan over

a gentle heat

evenly cooked and a light golden brown, stirring constantly (this

take 4-5 minutes). Set aside.

117

land of plenty

3

Drain and then cook the a

steamer

rice, place

lined with a it

in

you can either steam

rice:

amount

a saucepan with an equal

and simmer very gently

4 Place the sugar

until

it is

for 10-15 minutes boil

it.

To

boil

in

the

of water. Bring to a boil

completely cooked.

a small pan with about

in

it

double layer of cheesecloth or

tablespoon of water and melt

I

over a gentle heat. Keep warm. 5 Pound the rice with a

adding a

wooden spoon or

water

boiling

little

if

necessary.

that allows you to shape the paste into balls isn't

6

necessary to break up

When

the paste

pieces and

and serve,

roll still

is

all

just cool

make

fork to

a squishy paste,

You should aim for

a consistency

—moist but not too

runny.

It

the rice grains.

enough to handle, shape

them in the prepared soybean warm, with a drizzling of syrup.

it

into walnut-sized

flour. Place

on a serving

dish

SWEET POTATO CAKES hong shoo bing

These sweet potato cakes are a delicious snack that has recently

ix. ^-^ « u TT

become

some

a fashionable side order in

rustic restaurants.

of Chengdu's pseudo-

They are crunchy and golden

and smooth within. You can eat them dip of white sugar or honey.

just as they

Some people

up with a rose-petal sauce, which

is

fill

outside, buttery

come, or with a

them or dress them

used to distract from what

is

seen as the natural muddiness of the sweet potatoes. The sauce recipe below

is

my own

adaptation:

I've

water instead of the sugar syrup and candied rose

books suggest. Sometimes these cakes are paste, flattened

slightly,

and then dipped

filled in

used honey and rose

petals that

beaten egg and breadcrumbs

before frying (these sweet pastes can be bought ready-made

supermarkets). Anyone

nese restaurants

in

who

the West

most recipe

with lotus seed or red bean

in

Chinese

enjoys eating the caramel bananas served will love this

snack

in all its varieties.

in

Chi-

NOODLES. DUMPLINGS. AND OTHER STREET TREATS

Most recipes

specify that

yellow skins and orange

West would consider

you should use the type of sweet potatoes with

flesh.

strictly

It's

Chinese to use what

typically

dessert flavorings with vegetables

we

in

the

—they don't

share our tendency to separate "sweet" and "savory" foods.

Makes about 25 small potato cakes

I

large or 2 small sweet

potato flour or cornstarch for

potatoes (about 1/2 pounds) 1/2 cup glutinous rice flour optional: sugar

dusting

I

optional rose petal sauce honey teaspoon rose water

4 tablespoons I

1

Peel the

for deep-frying

oil

sweet potatoes and steam them over

minutes, until they are completely mushy. Leave

2 Mash the potatoes with the glutinous rice this stage

if

a high flame for

them to

flour. You

can add a

croquette shapes. Dust them with a

4 Heat the deep-frying

oil

ring gently, until golden

the

oil

oil

little

sugar at

you wish to make them sweeter.

3 Break off small plum-sized pieces of the potato paste and

on the

about 30

cool.

little

to about 325°F.

brown

—

roll

them

into

potato flour or cornstarch.

Add

this will take

the potato cakes and

fry, stir-

about 8 minutes. Keep an eye

temperature, which shouldn't shoot up too much above 325°F:

should just bubble gently around the potato cakes.

5 While the potato cakes are frying, gently heat the honey

the rose water and mix well.

When

In

a saucepan.

Add

the cakes are ready, drain them and

serve immediately, drizzled with the rose water honey.

land of plenty

PEARLY RICE BALLS zhen zhu yuan

zi

These steamed dumplings take their name from the outer

^

of whole glutinous rice grains that gives ance.

They can be sweet or

stuffed with pastes

made from

layer

them

a pearly appear-

savory, but are

most commonly

fruits

or nuts and sugar. Several of

these pastes, such as red bean paste and lotus seed paste, can be

bought canned

-?-

Makes 20-25

in

Chinese supermarkets.

rice balls

cup glutinous rice cup red bean paste or lotus seed paste 1/4 cups glutinous rice flour 2 tablespoons ordinary white

cup tepid water potato flour or cornstarch for dusting a little peanut oil 5 candied or maraschino

3/4

I

2/3

1

1

cherries

rice flour

1

Leave the rice to soak overnight or for several hours

plenty of cold

in

water.

2 Cut or break the stuffings can

3

When

stuffing paste into small, marble-sized

be cut into 1/2-inch

and then into cubes).

you are ready to make the dumplings, mix the flours together. Add

the tepid water and

more

slices

stir

to

make

a soft, squishy

glutinous rice flour or water

4 Divide the dough into 2 or potato flour or cornstarch,

Then break

off pieces of

indentation

in

its

if

dough (you can add a

Working on

a surface dusted with

each part into a sausage about

dough the

it

little

you need to adjust the consistency).

3 parts.

roll

5 Take one piece of dough, flatten

I

inch thick.

size of small walnuts.

slightly,

and use your thumb to make an

center. Place a piece of stuffing

then draw the sides of the dough up around 120

pieces (canned

it

in

this indentation,

to enclose

it

and

completely.

NOODLES, DUMPLINGS, AND OTHER STREET TREATS

Roll

gently

it

same

between your palms to make

as for Mr. Lai's glutinous rice balls

6 Drain the rice and scatter

7

it

lightly oiled

steamer

the steamer

—they

all

When

tray.

will

among

(The method

a small plate. Roll each

and arrange

Make sure the

spread out

ball.

balls

slightly

all

is

the

ball in

the

97.)

dough

the finished rice

balls

on a

are not too close together

in

during the cooking.

the balls are ready, cut the glace cherries

Into the spaces

8

onto

a "pearly" coating,

rice to give

When

it

round

a

on page

in

half

and put them

the dumplings. Steam at high heat for 20 minutes.

the dumplings are ready, top each with a piece of cherry and serve

immediately. (The cherries are steamed separately so they don't stain the

white dumplings during the cooking.)

STEAMED BREADS Wheat

has traditionally been the staple food of the northern Chinese.

areas of the northern provinces,

whether fried

in

it

still

the form of noodles {mian

twists of

dough {ma

mainly on rice, and wheat

In rural

forms the bulk of almost every meal,

tiao),

steamed bread {man

tou),

or deep-

The southern Chinese, by contrast, exist seen very much as a supplementary staple. The

hua).

is

Sichuanese may eat wheat noodles for lunch or nibble steamed bread with

most people find it hard to envisage a Most Sichuanese people complain that wheat grown

their breakfast of rice porridge, but

main meal without

rice.

is of a poor quality because of the dampness of the Sichuan climate. The most ordinary kind of steamed bread is known as man tou, and consists merely of buns of steamed dough. The term man tou has a fascinating history. According to one ancient text, it dates back to the time of the great statesman and strategist Zhu Ge Liang, who lived in the third century a.d. and

locally

is

commemorated

in

the

Wu

Hou Temple

in

Chengdu. An ancient southern

Chinese custom dictated that military chiefs should make

sacrifices to the

gods using the heads of the barbarians they encountered. The original man tou actually

meant "barbarian head"

—the character man was an ancient name

for

the southern barbarians (or the "minority nationalities of the south" as

more

Zhu Ge

Liang

politically

correct

modern sources put

it).

The story goes

that

121

land of plenty

ended

this

unsavory

term man

became

sacrificial

human

As time went

man was

more innocuous man with no such

tends to refer only to plain steamed buns;

which

literally

means "wrapped-up

gory

its

filled

racist

the

by,

tou entered the everyday Chinese vocabulary and the sacrificial

replaced by a

z/,

heads.

a daily staple, although the specific character

ter for head, tou, remains as a legacy of

bao

dough

practice by Instructing his troops to use

with meat as a substitute for

balls stuffed

bun

eventually

meaning. The charac-

These

history.

man tou known as

days,

steamed buns are

thing."

STEAMED FLOWER ROLLS hua juan

^^

When

A^C^

form of "flower

bread

served with Sichuanese meals,

is

rolls,"

it

often takes the

which are pieces of risen dough twisted

into interesting shapes and then steamed.

There are

all

kinds of

ways of twisting them, some quite elaborate, and they can also be colored or flavored, perhaps with sugar and candied rose petals,

or with chopped scallions and vegetable

oil.

The

following recipe

includes instructions for making a hua juan dough and for shaping

two

of the

simpler forms. Sichuanese pastry chefs usually raise the dough by adding a of the previous day's batch:

I

have given instructions using dry yeast.

wish to play around, you can knead sugar and lard into the dough after risen

and sprinkle the rolled out dough with candied

ture of vegetable

oil

and

finely

sliced

scallions,

Sichuan pepper. Roll up the dough and cut

it

fruit

or

petals,

If

it

bit

you has

or a mix-

or a mixture of

salt

and

according to the instructions

in

the recipe.

Makes 20-25 I

I

I

pieces of bread

tablespoon sugar tablespoon dried yeast

Add

the sugar and yeast to

cups all-purpose flour a little lard or peanut oil 3

I

place for about 15 minutes, until the liquid has

122

a

warm

good head of

froth.

cup of lukewarm water and leave

grown

a

in

NOODLES, DUMPLINGS, AND OTHER STREET TREATS

Place the flour

in

a mixing bowl,

make

yeast mixture. Mix well, adding about

enough to make

5-10 minutes

damp

doubled

3

When

the

cup more lukewarm water

1/4

until

is

it

floured surface and knead vigorously for

lightly

smooth and

kitchen towel, and leave

in size

in

a dough.

2 Turn the dough onto a

with a

and pour

a well in the center,

—

an oiled bowl, cover

elastic. Place in in

warm,

a

draft-free place until

has

it

1-2 hours, depending on temperature.

the dough has doubled, punch

and leave for another 15-30 minutes,

4 Turn the risen dough onto a

lightly

it

to knock

until

it

it

back to

original size

its

has risen again.

work

floured

surface and knead for

another few minutes. 5 There are countless ways of shaping the dough

—the

two

following

are

very simple and attractive:

i

Roll the

thick.

Use

dough out

into a long strip

a pastry brush to

oil

tightly like a jelly roll. slice

the

roll

into

I

1/4 inch

the surface with melted lard or peanut

the long side nearest to you and

Lift

about 8 inches wide and

roll

it

Gently press the end into the

-inch sections.

These can be

steamer; after cooking they

will puff

want to be more elaborate,

lay

roll

to seal

it,

and then

up

in

the

spiral flowers. (If

you

spiral side

laid

up into pretty

the spiral slices

down on

the

work

surface

and use a pair of chopsticks to push two opposite sides of the together to make a figure-eight shape. Leave them

other sides together

in

the same manner to

oil.

away, rolling the dough up

like that,

make

circle

or push the

a four-petaled flower

shape.)

ii

Roll the

dough out into

a strip as described above, but roll

both sides so you get something cylinder again, and then cut

6 Brush a steamer tray

making sure there

is

lightly

I

like

a double jelly

-inch sections to

with

oil.

make

roll.

it

up from

Roll this into a

double-spiral slices.

Lay the shaped pieces of dough on

it,

plenty of space between them. Then steam over a high

heat for 8-10 minutes,

until

they have puffed up. Serve hot or cold.

123

land of plenty

VARIATION Lotus-leaf buns

—he

These are sometimes served with Sichuanese

ye b/ng:

tea-smol<ed ducl< (see page 180). Break the dough into 4 pieces. Roll each piece out into a sausage about

inches thick. Break or cut each

1/2

I

sausage into 5 or 6 pieces. Take each piece,

roll

into a

it

and

ball,

flatten

it

with the palm of your hand into a circle about 1/4 inch thick. Brush the surface with melted lard or sides gently together.

on the dough, and

oil

and fold the

Use the teeth of

its

a

two

circle in half, pressing the

comb

to

make

a crisscross pattern

back to make 2 evenly spaced indentations on the

rounded outside edge. The bun should vaguely resemble

a folded lotus leaf.

STEAMED BUNS WITH SPICY BEAN SPROUT STUFFING dou ya bao

Round steamed buns with eaten

^t ilL "^

-^t

^^

^

^y

Sichuan since the 1930s,

in

began

his

1930s.

when people from

the coastal

making

career by selling them on the streets of Chengdu

He blended skills

eye" bao

pork-stuffed bao

zi,

traditional Sichuanese

zi in

in

at the

central

its

stuffing

top of the bun, is

still

peeps up through

beady eye. Mr.

like a

a small

Liao's

Chengdu. The restaurant,

zhi

long yan bao

t)u zi

is

the 1920s. Mr. Han

the

Chengdu outlets that bear his name. The following type of bao zi is the most which

is

why

I

Han bao

filled his

of pork, fresh shrimp, and spices, and they are

local specialties,

mole

tiu zi).

Another famous Sichuanese steamed bun in

fame

a small restaurant selling his specialty

after Mr. Liao's distinguishing facial characteristic, a large

man named Han Yingdou

the

methods with the bun-

of eastern China and devised the acclaimed "dragon-

so called because

with a few long, sprouting hairs (zhi

124

are

most famous maker of these buns was one Liao Yongtong, who

round hole

named

zi)

areas took refuge there during the Japanese invasion. Sichuan's

spread far and wide, and there

zi, is

moist, meaty stuffings (bao

over China, but food experts say they have only been

all

popular

zi

still

zi,

devised by a

buns with a mixture

sold

in

a

number of

distinctively Sichuanese of

have chosen to include

it.

Nowhere

all

the

else in

NOODLES, DUMPLINGS, AND OTHER STREET TREATS

China do you

find a

made with bean

bao

stuffing flavored

z'l

sprouts.

The

stuffing

is

with Sichuanese

chili

bean paste or

gently spicy, a nice contrast to the

make it with soybean sprouts, but the more easily obtained mung bean

bland steamed bread. Sichuanese cooks would

bean husks and whiskers discarded,

sprouts are a perfectly acceptable substitute.

Note: The stuffing can be

Makes about 20 a bit

large buns or

more than

risen

made

while the

40

dough

small ones

a pound of

ounces ground pork 2 tablespoons Sichuanese chili bean paste 2 teaspoons light soy sauce teaspoon dark soy sauce teaspoon salt to taste tablespoon Shaoxing rice wine or medium-dry sherry 8-10 turns of a black pepper 14

dough (the dough

should be

made

with 3 cups

all-purpose flour exactly as in

the recipe for steamed

I

rolls on page 22: add 3 tablespoons melted lard or peanut oil at the mixing stage)

flower

I

1

just

I

FOR THE STUFFING 8 ounces bean sprouts peanut

1

Chop

or a couple of pinches

mill

of white pepper

oil

the bean sprouts into

bean husks and whiskery

bits

1/2-inch sections if

the pork and

bean paste and

stir-fry briskly until

stir-fry until

it

(remove and discard the

possible).

2 Season the wok, then add 4 tablespoons of

Add

rising.

is

it

oil

and heat over a high flame.

has separated out.

has stained the

oil

Add

the

a reddish color.

chili

Add

all

the seasonings (remember that the stuffing must be quite salty to pep up the unsalted bread wrapping) and mix well.

and

3

stir-fry briefly until

When

the dough

work

surface.

is

Finally,

add the bean sprouts

they are just cooked. Tip the stuffing into a bowl.

ready, break

it

into

about 4 pieces on a

To make snack-sized buns,

sausage and break or cut the sausage into

roll I

lightly

each piece into a

floured I

-inch

-ounce pieces. To make larger

125

land of plenty

buns,

roll slightly

and then

ter,

the indentation with a teaspoon of

fill

the edge of the circle to draw

it

stuffing.

Pinch around

up into a round dumpling with a small hole

the top.

in

4

them into 2-ounce pieces. Flatmake an indentation in the cen-

thicker sausages and break

ten each piece with the palm of your hand,

Lightly oil a

steamer

tray.

Place the finished buns

in

the steamer, making

sure they are well spaced out. Steam over a high flame for 8-10 minutes (for small buns)

or 12-15 minutes

(for large buns).

Serve piping hot.

FLOWER BEAN CURD dou hua

t^

It's

\£^

tucked away

down

a

back

near Sichuan University.

her copper

kettle, refilling the lidded tea bowls,

approaching: "Dou huarl

homemade

back

in

their creaking

bamboo shoulder

his

stopping here and there for a

Then a call goes up in the street outside, slowly Dou huar!" A few minutes later, the bean curd vendor

walks into the courtyard and sets

hung from

sitting

the

In

bamboo chairs, reading books or newspapers. Four people sit in a side room smoking cigarettes and shuffling mahjong tiles. The owner of the teahouse wanders around among the tables with

L

chat with the regulars.

down

the pair of red-and-black barrels

pole. For a small sum, he scoops

flower bean curd into a bowl, drizzles

and soy sauce, and then scatters over lions,

one of Chengdu's teahouses,

in

alley

main courtyard, a few students are

Ah y^J^

a sleepy, sunny afternoon

finely

it

with

chili

some

of his

and sesame

chopped pickled vegetables,

oils

seal-

and crunchy yellow soybeans, with a sprinkling of ground roasted

Sichuan pepper. The bean curd

is still

warm, and

meltingly tender, the dressing

piquant and richly satisfying.

Flower bean curd still

commonly

their

126

is

one of the few

in

traditional Sichuanese snacks that

on the streets of the

trademark red-and-black

teahouses,

town.

sold

barrels, set

city.

is

The bean curd vendors, with

up shop wherever they can

markets, outside the main department store

in

—

in

the center of

NOODLES, DUMPLINGS. AND OTHER STREET TREATS

This type of bean curd, at It's

enjoyed

stiffer

all

best,

is

than the southern Chinese, just

sticks instead of a

elsewhere

in

because of

is

pepper;

nice. in

as

tender and

silky as

creme caramel.

snack

this

consistency. fruit,

In

is

In

Chengdu

also a

is

to eat

like

chili

it

it

with it

chili oil

plain

little

and Sichuan

with intensely

Gourmets

paste, garlic, ginger, and scallions.

nao)

fu

sweet, with

Sichuan, predictably, they think a

street vendors serve

the mountains near Chongqing they serve

flavored dips of

dialect term:

"bean curd brain" (dou

as

the south, people

and syrup.

The Chengdu

known

little

enough to be eaten with chop-

stiff

spoon. "Flower bean curd"

China

its

almond essence, spice

its

over China, although the Sichuanese often make theirs a

say that the

most important aspect of flower bean curd is the quality of the water used to make it, so some areas of Sichuan with notably pure and delicious water sources are celebrated for their dou hua. If

you can remember to set the soybeans to soak the night before you

wish to use them, flower bean curd

recommend the homemade

is

amazingly easy to make, and

version. The only special

highly

I

equipment you need

is

a

blender and a clean piece of cheesecloth to strain the milk. The coagulant,

gypsum, can be found

in

Asian supermarkets.

If

you don't wish to make your

dou hua from scratch, you can use the plain "tofu mix" ufacturers and sold

in

Asian grocery stores ("tofu"

made by Japanese man-

is

one

transliteration of

the Chinese characters for bean curd). All you have to do instructions

on the package, but use only three-quarters of the coagulant they

provide (the this kind of

follow the

is

full

package leads to firm, ordinary bean curd). The texture of

dou hua

is

very pleasing, but

its

you can use the

fresh version. Otherwise,

health food stores and supermarkets.

It's

taste isn't nearly as

good

as the

soft "silken tofu" sold in cartons in

not quite soft enough, but

still

tastes

good.

Flower bean curd also serve feast of

it

is

often eaten as a between-meals nibble, but you can

as part of a

Chinese meal, perhaps as an accompaniment to a

Zhong dumplings or Long wontons, with

or a salad on the

a simple cold vegetable dish

side.

The seasonings

given

in

the following recipe are those used by the bean

curd vendor described above,

Serves 4 as a snack or part of a

who

light,

has been

in

the trade for

many

years.

mformal lunch

127

land of plenty

cup dried soybeans and 2 1/4 teaspoons gypsunri, or one 2-ounce package of tofu mix (maizes about 1/2 pounds dou hua), or two 0-ounce pacl
teaspoon ground roasted Sichuan pepper (see page 74) 2 tablespoons crunchy deepfried soybeans or Indian 1/2-1

3/4

I

deep-fried lentils or

1

unsalted peanuts tablespoons 2 finely chopped preserved mustard tuber 4 scallions, green parts only,

tofu

sill<en

SEASONING 4 teaspoons light soy sauce

2-4 teaspoons

chile flakes (see page 55) teaspoon sesame oil

I

1

with

chili oil

sliced into tiny rings

To make your own bean curd: Leave the soybeans to soak overnight of cold water, changing the water a few times rinse the beans very well

with a

I

under the

quart of water (do them

few minutes

until

in

tap,

if

plenty

and then put them into the blender

2 batches

if

necessary). Whizz

you can no longer see any

good head of froth on the

in

possible. The following day,

bits of

them up

bean and there

for is

a

or colander with a double layer

liquid. Line a sieve

of cheesecloth and strain the soybean liquid into a saucepan. Squeeze the

much soybean

cheesecloth very tightly to extract as Dissolve the gypsum

in

milk as possible.

cup of hot water Bring the strained soybean

I

milk to a boil over a high flame. Skim off the surface foam with a slotted

spoon and discard ture another

stir

it.

Pour the

and scatter

boiling milk into a bowl. Give the

it

over the soybean milk. Give

then leave to set for 20 minutes. As

it

sets, gently press

it

gypsum mix-

a quick stir and

the surface of the

curd with a slotted spoon to firm up the mixture and allow any excess water to escape. Bring about 2

curd has

set,

water, and let

or

2

If

until

I

/2 cups of

water to

a boil in a

use a large spoon to transfer it

it,

wok or

chunk by chunk,

simmer over an extremely low flame

you are ready to eat

saucepan. When the into the hot

for about 20 minutes,

it.

you are using tofu mix, follow the instructions on the package to make

the bean curd, remembering to add only three-quarters of the coagulant.

you are using store-bought soft bean curd, simmering,

128

lightly salted

water

warm

it

up

in

If

a pot of gently

Qflp^

-f^.

^.v

t-»^'

I

.

Ingredients

(left

to

right,

row by row from

56; Fresh coriander (cilantro), slices, pp. 39,

black beans,

p.

top):

Sesame

paste,

58; Sichuan chili bean paste,

p.

p.

57;

73;Thai pickled chiles,

"Horse ear"

57-58; Whole Sichuan pepper, pp. 73-74; Chopped ginger,

p.

54;

Chopped

garlic, p. 63;

Homemade

chili oil,

pp.

p.

63;

p.

scallion

Fermented

55-56; Scallion "flowers," pp.

57-58; "Fragrant things" (star anise, fennel seeds, dried "sand ginger," cloves, cao guo, cassia bark), pp. 6 -62; "Facing-heaven" chiles, 1

pp.

70-71;

Homemade

p.

54; Sichuanese ya cai (preserved

fermented glutinous

rice wine, pp.

mustard greens),

60-61; Shaoxing rice wine,

p.

57

1

2.

Appetizers (from back to front):

Man-and-wife meat

Soybeans

in

slices, p.

their pods,

p.

eggs with green peppers, fried crispy peanuts, p.

1

9

1

78;

186; Preserved p.

153;

Deep-

3.

A

Sichuanese hors d'oeuvre box {cuan he)

containing (clockwise, from top): Five-spiced

"smoked" p.

1

fish, p.

169; Spicy

85; Tea-smoked duck,

verts

in

ginger sauce,

with tangerine peel, red peppers, (center),

p.

1

p.

44

1

p.

p.

cucumber

p.

1

salad,

80; haricots

150; Spicy beef slices

165;

Sweet-and-sour

54; and Strange-flavor chicken

4.

Fish-fragrant

pork

slivers, p.

196

7.

Boiled beef slices

in

a fiery sauce,

p.

226

W^

-

'

V ''

•s*

iMB^^^^H

l^^^9 Ib^ ^ 3t^^* ^^^^j^ll^knil ^^{^i3 ^^1 I^P ^1 ^j^gg

'j^

^ p ^^^fl S^H fUi^aE^^l?'

k^%uF^9Sli jm^

BSSXiS^ vwB9|^^ '

m -T

'^^^M

t

1 W

'

'il^B^^I

*^lfejS^

S.Vegetable dishes (clockwise from top Stir-fried

amaranth,

mushrooms, p.

p.

p.

left):

294; Stir-fried mixed

292; Dry-fried bitter melon,

296; Stir-fried water spinach,

p.

295

!^' S(^®sp!'^iiS&&^a^7*-

9.

Gong Bao (Kung

'

V

-

'?

Pao) chicken with peanuts,

^ p.

237

10.

Sweet-and-sour crispy

fish

(before cooking),

p.

264

NOODLES. DUMPLINGS, AND OTHER STREET TREATS

3 While the bean curd

is

warm,

still

drain

it

and divide

bowls. Drizzle over the liquid seasonings, sprinkle per,

lightly

it

up among four

with Sichuan pep-

and scatter over the other ingredients. Serve immediately, and

let

your

guests mix the seasonings into the bean curd themselves.

VARIATIONS Hot-and-sour flower bean curd

suan

la

dou hua:

this

is

one of the snacks

served at "Mr. Tan's" famous flower bean curd shop, which

my way to classes at the Sichuan cooking the summer months. The method is exactly

I

used to pass

every day on

school.

popular

the same as the one

in

It's

especially

described above, but the seasonings should be as follows: 4 teaspoons

light

soy sauce; 4 teaspoons Chinkiang or black Chinese vinegar; 2-^ teaspoons chili

oil

with chile flakes (see page 55), 1/2-1 teaspoon ground roasted

Sichuan pepper (see page 74); 2 tablespoons finely chopped preserved mustard tuber; 4 teaspoons deep-fried soybeans and 4 teaspoons deep-fried

unsalted peanuts, or 2 1/2 tablespoons of roasted or deep-fried peanuts;

and 4

scallions,

green parts only, sliced into tiny

rings. The

sour note adds a

delicious extra dimension.

At the Long Chao Shou restaurant, they make a version that plays with sesame flavorings and Sichuan pepper {shuang ma dou hua). Quantities are as follows:

with

4 teaspoons

soy sauce; 4 teaspoons sesame paste mixed

light

1-2 teaspoons sesame

pepper (see page

74); 2

oil;

teaspoon ground roasted Sichuan

1/2-1

tablespoons

chopped preserved mustard

finely

tuber; 4 teaspoons crushed deep-fried noodles and 4 teaspoons deep-fried

unsalted

peanuts or 2

1/2

tablespoons roasted or deep-fried unsalted

peanuts; and 4 scallions, green parts only, sliced into tiny rings.

Flower bean curd can also be served chili

bean paste. To make the

bean paste

in

a

little oil,

plain,

dip, stir-fry a

with a separate dip

over a medium flame,

grant. Off the heat, stir in finely

chopped

made from

couple of tablespoons of

garlic

until

the

oil is

and scallions to

chili

red and frataste.

129

land of plenty

EIGHT-TREASURE BLACK RICE PORRIDGE ba bao hei mi zhou

woman

Every morning a

»x

«a

courtyard outside

used to set up her portable stove

my apartment

in

pot of black rice porridge and

big

residents.

was

It

in

the

Chengdu. She would heat up sell

by the bowl to local

it

warm mess

a wonderful, nutritious breakfast, a

wa

of rice scattered with the colors of tiny

** rel="nofollow">*

dates, wolfberries, and peanuts, and stained purple by the grains

%U ^T^

of black glutinous rice.

would eat

I

it

mung

with a

beans, red Chinese

sugar or

little

some

shavings from a miraculous block of wild Yunnan honey that

found by chance one day

The

following recipe

in

my

is

based on the one taught to

Chinese teacher Yu Weiqin, foods whenever she thought highly flexible

—no one

is

few contrasting colors to ing recipe have

I

who

market.

—

just try to

all

by

my

such comfort

make sure you have

up the snack. All the ingredients

Chinese medicinal functions, so the dish

colorful (they can

me

used to feed

me

was sad or homesick. The "eight treasures" are

actually counting liven

local

I

be bought

in

is

in

a

the follow-

nutritious as well as

good Chinese supermarkets). For

a

simple, everyday breakfast, you can use ordinary rice with a handful of

more mung

or azuki beans, and perhaps accompany the porridge with stuffed steamed buns and pickled vegetables.

In

the summer, the Sichuanese

like

fresh lotus leaves to a simmering pot of plain rice porridge.

the porridge with green and lend

it

to add whole

The

leaves tinge

a subtle fragrance; they are also thought

to relieve the physical discomforts of heat and humidity. Rice porridge

is

always cooked for at least a couple of hours, until the individual rice grains

rupture and

spill

out their

flesh

—the Chinese

call this kai

hua, "bursting into

flower."

You might as a

find this porridge

banquet side

after dinner

— not

dish.

I

served at snack restaurants

have also eaten

so strange

It

130

6-8

for breakfast

or, in tiny

houses as a

meat and vegetable

bowls,

final filler-up

when you consider Chinese people

serve rice at the end of the meal, after the

Serves

at friends'

habitually

dishes.

NOODLES. DUMPLINGS, AND OTHER STREET TREATS

(other possible additions are

tablespoon lotus seeds tablespoon lily buds {bai he) tablespoon raw peanuts In their pink skins tablespoon walnut meats 2 teaspoons mung beans 2 teaspoons azuki beans 1/2 tablespoons dried Chinese dates (jujube) 2 teaspoons Chinese I

raw barley and teaspoons dried foxnuts, 2 which are occasionally found in Chinese groceries) 1/4 cup black glutinous rice 1/4 cup white glutinous rice 1/4 cup ordinary long-grain 2 teaspoons

I

I

1

1

rice

sugar or honey to serve

wolfberries {Lycium chinense)

1

Soak the lotus seeds and

2 Give

all

them

in

buds

lily

in

water overnight.

the ingredients except for the wolfberries a good rinse, then place a large

saucepan

(this

includes the drained lotus seeds and

lily

buds). Add 3 quarts of water.

3 Bring the liquid to a

boil,

skim off any scum, then simmer on a very gentle

heat for about 2 hours, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking and adding

more water

if

necessary. You should end up with a loose, soupy porridge.

Shortly before the porridge

mer

ready, add the wolfberries and let

is

for a minute or two. Serve

warm, with sugar or honey to

them sim-

taste.

OTHER SPECIALTY SNACKS ZHENG ZHENG CAKES ^.

;^v %u

^9^

{zheng zheng gao)

These marvelously sweet

fillings

delicate concoctions of

made from

tionally sold by street

their

why

steamed

vendors

who

used to

call

their

name, zheng zheng gao, has such

Chinese

—

it

with

out the name of

wares to attract the attention of passersby

said in

rice,

lotus seeds or pine kernels, were tradi-

(this explains

a delightful ring

when

simply means "steamed cake"). Food scholars

trace their origins back at least three centuries. Sadly, the street

vendors have disappeared, but their snack like

lives

on

in

one or two restaurants

Long Chao Shou.To make the authentic zheng zheng gao, you need spe-

131

land of plenty

cially

made equipment:

individual

wooden dumpling molds which

fit

onto

steam pipes on a portable stove, channeling the steam directly through each hexagonal dumpling. The finished dumplings have a consistency somewhere

between sponge cake and cooked

rice

— moist, crumbly, and

delicious, with a

nugget of sweet paste inside. They are usually sprinkled with candied

fruits,

roasted peanuts, or white sugar.

RIPPLED-SILK FRIED DUMPLINGS

(bo

si

you gao)

dumplings are made from a special

tRippled-silk fried.

They have

a

most delectable texture:

coating that melts

and cooking bo

"*

^ X|

found only

^»*/

in

in

si

dough that

oily

when they

flowers out into great diaphanous waves

are deep-

a crisp, delicate

outer

the mouth, and sweet, heavy centers. Making

you gao requires

immense

restaurants that specialize

in

skill,

so they are

them. The dumpling

was invented by one of the great Sichuanese cooks of the twentieth century,

Kong Daosheng, who,

a

in

throwback to the old

teaching tradition, passed the recipe on to a handful of apprentices. His

cooking school,

Li

According to Mr. Fan, Master Kong told in

happy accident

a

my

students included

pastry teacher at the Sichuan

Daiquan,and the head chef of Long Chao Shou, Fan Shixian.

in

students that the snack originated

his

a small Sichuanese restaurant.

was playing around with a small blob of leftover smeared his hands with oil to stop it sticking. After tossed the blob into the deep-frying pan to get

ment

it

puffed up like a flower. Master

Dan hong gao are frying pans with ft

lA

J^^

flour, eggs,

like that,

is

is

it,

grew bored and

where to

his

amaze-

discovery, added

you gao.

pancakes made

A

in

miniature copper

spoonful of batter,

made from

poured into the pans, which are then covlids.

When

the pancake

is

nearly cooked,

added, and the pancake folded

in half. It is

folded into a semicircle, crisp and golden on the

outside, soft within, and

stuffings are often

si

convex bases.

and yeast,

ered with matching copper

served

•^^

and he repeatedly

{dan hong gao) small, fluffy

a spoonful of stuffing

'

pastry,

a while he

of

owner

restaurant's

Kong heard about the

a stuffing to the oily dough, and created bo

STUFFED EGGY PANCAKES

rid

The

filled

with a sweet or savory

made with sugar and crushed

stuffing.

Sweet

unsalted peanuts or sesame

seeds; savory stuffings with minced fried pork and salty pickled vegetables.

132

NOODLES, DUMPLINGS. AND OTHER STREET TREATS

CARAMELIZED GLUTINOUS RICE BALLS

{tang you gUO zi)

Children love eating these glutinous spheres, glazed with caramel

and studded with sesame seeds. The

^

wok

%^

^Q|

that contains both

then are rolled balls

are often impaled on thin

SICHUANESE FLATBREADS Guo

W-*

kuei

j^l

lage near

ground meat and from

a stall

skewers, so they can be

a kind of flatbread that

is

a popular

crisp,

named

I

vil-

said to have originated, jun tun

golden pinwheels of dough,

spices.

after Jun Tun, the

filled

with a scatter-

used to buy them for breakfast, hot from the

near one of the back entrances to Sichuan University.

Watching the vendor of his

term for

Chengdu where they are

guo kuei are ing of

finished

(gUO kuei)

a general

is

delicious of these are jun tun guo kuei,

J

stove,

bamboo

The

Sichuanese snack. There are many different varieties. The most

jiflj

>

tray filled with seeds.

nibbled without making one's fingers too sticky.

^T-t.

*

bamboo

a

in

rice balls are deep-fried in a

and molten, caramelized sugar, and

oil

rolling

thumb to smear

the dough

is

always a spectacle: he uses the heel

dough

a small ball of

into a long, tongue-like strip, then

with ginger, scallions, five-spice

made from ground pork seasoned powder, and Sichuan pepper. Then he rolls each

strip into a cylinder, stands

on

spreads this sparingly with lard and a paste

before

finally

it

using a rolling pin to

cooked on

flatbreads are

his frying

end, and squashes

make

a portable

oven. The vendor begins by frying

then he removes

its

The

into a 4- to 5-inch disc. The rolled

it

them

in

plenty of

oil, until

Another Sichuan until

they

curl,

fillings.

zling of

where they are baked

day.

specialty

then baked, and

They can be

aromatic gravy, or

vegetables.

they are golden,

pan from the stove and stacks the guo kuei under-

finished guo kuei are scrumptious: perfect for breakfast or as a

snack at any time of the

ety of

into a flat round,

burner that serves both as hot plate and

neath, on a special shelf just above the flaming charcoal, until crisp.

it

is

plain

white guo

finally split

kuei,

open and served with one of

stuffed with thin slices of chili oil

toasted on a griddle

stewed meat and

sauce, or perhaps with

some

a varia driz-

salted pickled

Sweet guo kuei are made by adding brown sugar to the dough and

scattering the flatbreads with

sesame seeds. 133

land of plenty

GLUTINOUS RICE CONES WRAPPED Zong

Lj^^

^T^%

zi

cleverly

BAMBOO LEAVES

IN

in

long

bamboo

leaves,

and tied up

tSt&

They are eaten around the Dragon Boat

jiiy

the

fifth

day of the

Some people monies held

J^m

tion,

"^

The

with string.

Festival {duan

wu

jie)

on

origins of this practice are uncertain.

zi were eaten as part of cerehonor of gods or ancestors, but the folk explana-

which has been around only since the sixth century, long

after the practice began,

B.C., is

tightly

wrapped

suggest that zong

in

the death of the poet

century

yan zong zi)

lunar month, a tradition that goes back at

fifth

least sixteen centuries.

^

{jiao

are bundles of glutinous rice shaped into cones,

remembered

is

Qu

that they are eaten to

Yuan.

Qu

Yuan,

who

commemorate

lived in

as a loyal and sagacious adviser to the

the third

Duke

of

Chu. The poet committed suicide by throwing himself into the Miluo River after the Duke's failure to

heed

his

advice led to political disaster. Grieving

people are said to have thrown packets of rice into the river

local

that the fish

would eat them and

memorating the deaths of past

leave the poet's

in

the hope

body untouched. (Com-

renowned for their honesty way of expressing anger at political corruption this is how the Tiananmen demonstrations began in 1989.) Zong zi are eaten all over China to mark the Dragon Boat Festival the Sichuanese like to mix their rice with red beans, salt, and Sichuan pepper, and sometimes political figures

has often been used by the Chinese as a

—

little bits

—

of pork.

STARCH JELLIES

^^ ^^T\

(Hang fen)

made from starchy foods and buckwheat. The jellies are cut into

Sichuanese people adore eating like

peas, fava beans, rice,

jellies

cubes, ribbons, or chunky strips and served with

,

'jjKr^

cious spicy dressings.

They can

also be

all

kinds of deli-

mixed with cold chicken

or eaten hot with carp and other foods. They are usually sold

in

the markets alongside the bean curd and bean curd products.

One

stall

owner, a Mrs. Luo, was kind enough to take

me

to her village near

Chengdu to show me how the jellies were made. In the small rural workshop, a man heated water in an enormous earthenware jar about three feet high. It was heated by steam that bubbled out from a pipe connected to a roaring furnace nearby. When the water was boiling, the man mixed pea starch with water and pot.

134

a coagulant in a separate bucket

He then used

all

his

strength to

stir

and poured the mixture into the

the starch into the water, working

NOODLES, DUMPLINGS, AND OTHER STREET TREATS

furiously. After the mixing, the liquid

was

left

to bubble away, again heated

only by the steam pipe. After about 20 minutes,

and semitranslucent, he scooped

was

jelly

Jellies

made with other

up Into bowls and

it

had become viscous

left it

to set.

The

fin-

ingredients have different appearances and textures

rice jelly {mi Hang fen), for style of

Hang fen

dressed

in

is

example,

yellowish and opaque. The

is

most famous

North Sichuan pea jelly (chuan be; Hang fen), which is made from fermented black beans, pickled mustard

a rich sauce

greens, rock sugar, ginger, Sichuan pepper, and

GOLDEN-THREAD NOODLES

^^^^

it

a silvery, translucent white, with a cool, pudding-like texture.

ished

M^

when

mian)

(jin si

These noodles are made with which

is

rolled

chili oil.

out by hand

a paste of

until

it is

then cut into extremely thin noodles,

noodles are

briefly boiled

soned stock and sesame

whole egg and

flour,

as thin as strudel pastry. like

"threads of

silk."

It is

The

and are often served simply with sea-

oil.

Because of the

skill

involved

in

mak-

^^CL

ing

»-A/

sometimes served with toppings made from expensive banquet

them, these noodles are considered a banquet snack and are

ingredients, such

noodles," which are

as

made from

a

seafood.

A

variation

dough bound with

is

pale "silver-thread

e^ white

alone.

135

appetizers A SICHUANESE FEAST ALWAYS BEGINS WITH A TEASING spread of

little

open the stomach

senses,

room temperature,

dishes, served cold or at

and set the

{kai wei),

mood

to arouse the

for the meal to

come.

Often a ravishing selection of delicacies arranged with an eye to variety

in

and texture, they might include sliced cold poultry dressed

in

color, taste,

spicy sauces; bles;

chewy beef with numbing Sichuan pepper;

and seasonal

salads. In fancy restaurants,

with a selection of appetizers served

cool, colorful vegeta-

customary to

it is

start the meal

a round, black-lacquered hors d'oeu-

in

The

vre box {cuan he) richly embellished with dragon and phoenix designs.

box

is

presented whole, with

contains are

lifted

its

decorated

lid,

out and spread around the

which has four small dishes arranged around

and then the small dishes table.

The simplest cuan

a larger central one,

is

it

he,

called a

"five-color" box; larger "seven-color" and "nine-color" boxes are also offered.

At

its

best, a nine-color

variations.

box

will

amaze with

The presentation of the cuan he

its

signifies

unexpected and delicious the start of the banquet,

and as the guests eat these dishes with their chopsticks, the hot dishes start to arrive, slowly but surely,

The flora

to

precise hors d'oeuvre

and fauna, and the

my family

from the kitchen.

menu

is

a

shifting seasons.

at the Shufeng restaurant in

matter of the cook's discretion,

One

rabbit with Sichuan

chiles; rabbit's

kidneys

sauce; a type of beef innard with shreds of lettuce stem and carrot

tard-oil sauce; celery in a garlicky dressing, served with

melon with sesame

oil;

and red peppers

in

a

local

"seven-colored" cuan he served

Chengdu included

pepper; chicken gizzards with pickled mountain oil

will

bean curd

sweet-and-sour sauce.

in

in chili

a

mus-

skin; bitter

These kinds of dishes are also served

A

home,

meats or a cold-dressed vegetable

dish of cold

can be prepared

it

in

is

a less flamboyant style.

not only a pleasant con-

or soupy hot dishes, but a great convenience to the

trast to stir-fried, braised,

cook, because

at

in

Many Sichuanese hosts

advance.

buy a few ready-to-eat delicacies from specialized street vendors

some tea-smoked sauces

—and

also

v^ill

—

duck, stewed meats, or pickled vegetables draped

perhaps in

spicy

serve them as part of an otherwise home-cooked meal. At

home, these dishes

be on the table at the start of the meal, to be aug-

will

mented by hot dishes

emerge from the

as they

kitchen.

There's also a recent fashion for eating these appetizers with drinks as part of a casual, snacky restaurant meal. This Sichuanese version of tapas

known like

term

as leng dan bei, a

that doesn't translate well but

The food

"a few cold dishes and a glass of beer."

ters

in

Whole bles.

restaurants open to the streets and

evenings

salted

eggs, and

Chengdu,

it's

away

will slip

The food served

on great

—various cold meats and

aromatic

through the back streets of

peanuts. Cycling

difficult

stir-fries,

to concentrate on the road as one passes

out under the eaves of the wood-framed houses.

laid

They are recipes that

I

many of

Sichuan's

most popular appe-

have returned to again and again, not least

because they blend so well with other, everyday types of cooking. A of Sichuanese

plateful

chicken livens up any kind of buffet lunch; hot-and-

chili-oil

numbing beef goes

plat-

conversation over the beer and assorted nib-

This chapter includes recipes for tizers.

displayed

served on small round plates.

is

simple and hearty

is

sometimes

these tables of plenty,

in

is

is

means something

deliciously with a cool aperitif; and

many

of these dishes

can be served as Western-style appetizers.

APPETIZERS WITH DRESSINGS One

{Hang ban

cai)

of the easiest ways to get to the heart of Sichuanese cooking

few of

its

delicious sauces

can be cooked, simply,

in

is

to try a

on cold meats and vegetables. The main ingredients advance, the sauce rustled up quickly at the

last

minute. Most of the following recipes are extremely simple to prepare, but are intriguing, different, and wonderfully tasty. of Sichuanese cooking a single dish, and

in

in

The

hot, spicy

ones are

their liberal use of the

two

much

in

favorite local flavorings, chile

and Sichuan pepper. The exact amounts of these two spices used sauce are very

typical

their bold combinations of several intense flavors

a matter of personal taste.

I

in

each

have chosen to offer the

U37

land of plenty

level

of spiciness you might find

home. Some Sichuanese, rious even

a typical

in

among other Sichuanese

probably double

my

Chengdu restaurant or

particular the people of Chongqing,

in

Chengdu

a

who

are noto-

would

for their chile-guzzling tastes,

suggested quantities of both

chili oil

and Sichuan pepper;

fancy restaurants catering to visitors from other parts of China might halve

them. So

ous

feel free

— my

to tone

friends and family,

down

the flavors

most

of

them

you need

if

originally

to,

but be adventur-

unaccustomed to

this kind

of spicing, have raved about these dishes. It

to

should be remembered that

make

with

in

if,

a

Western

kitchen,

you asked someone

a salad dressing, they wouldn't follow a recipe, but

oils,

vinegars,

salt,

would

play

pepper, mustard, and honey perhaps, and

something that tasted good that

day. In Sichuan,

around

make up

the same with dressings

it's

for cold meats and vegetables, except that the basic pantry ingredients are a little

different.

Sichuanese

and dark), vinegar,

chili

home cooks

and sesame

oils,

around with soy sauce

will play

sugar, salt,

minced

garlic,

(light

and Sichuan

pepper. They will blur the boundaries between the classic sauces, each time creating something that's a

little

different.

The

following recipes will give you

an overview of the standard types of flavoring described taught

in

cooking schools. But once you have a

feel for

cookbooks and

in

them,

it's

fun to play

around with different combinations.

COOKED CHICKEN FOR SICHUANESE

APPETIZERS

The Chinese are very particular about how they eat their chicken. Old hens {mu ji, "mother chickens") may be simmered for hours to create a rich soup base, but young,

meaty

must never be overcooked, for

birds

their delicate white flesh. Serious their chickens into a

and then turn

gourmets and Cantonese chefs

measured amount of

off the heat. The

pot

is

boiling stock, bring

covered with a

lid

temperature, the flesh should be just cooked, but little

raw pinkness

wary of cooking chickens cooked properly.

I

the bones.

I

still

liquid

firm, juicy,

boil,

left

reaches

to

room

and subtly

have to admit that I'm

way because of the

plunge

will

back to a

fla-

slightly

health risks

if

they're not

have quite happily eaten just-cooked chicken

in

many good

this

Chinese restaurants with no ing to the following

138

in

it

and the chicken

poach gently as the boiling stock cools down. When the vored, with a

fear of ruining

method.

ill

I

effects, but at

home

should add that this

I

is

tend to poach

how

it

accord-

several Sichuanese

APPETIZERS

both restaurant chefs and

friends,

home

cooks, prepare their chickens.

Don't forget that although the chickens

in

Sichuanese cold dishes are

make delightful dressings for the remains of a braised or roasted bird. And do cook the chicken the day before you wish to entertain guests if you want to lighten the last-minute always cooked

in

water, the following sauces also

cooking load.

a

1/2-inch piece of fresh

I

I

ginger, unpeeled

1

Choose

chicken, about 3 pounds

2 scallions, white parts only

enough to hold the chicken

a pot large

cover, and bring to a vigorous boil.

snugly,

Crush the ginger

fill

it

slightly

with water to with the side

of a cleaver blade or a heavy object.

2 Plunge the chicken into the water, return surface.

down utes,

Add

When

the chicken

If

is

it

when

just

silky,

by poking a skewer deep

the bird

is

will

ooze out of the

ready.

cooked (and take care not to overdo in

it),

remove

cold running water. You can then leave

water for an hour or two

to cool and then place

be moist,

it

not yet cooked, pink juices

it's

from the pot and rinse

potful of cold

leave

and then turn the heat

lid,

to a very gentle simmer. Poach at this temperature for about 30 min-

hole. These will run clear

it

quickly to a boil, and skim the

depending on the size of the chicken. Test

into the thigh joint.

3

it

the ginger and scallions, close the

in

until

you wish to use

it,

it

in

a

or just

the refrigerator. The chicken flesh should

and not disintegrating.

FOUR WAYS OF DRESSING COLD CHICKEN MEAT The following sauces are a simple yet dramatic introduction to Sichuanese cooking. Make one to serve with half a leftover chicken otherwise cook a

—

whole

bird

and surprise your guests with a choice of three or four different

sauces, served

in little

keeping with the

chunks or

spirit

bowls around a central dish of piled-up chicken meat.

of the Sichuan kitchen, you should cut the chicken into

slices or slivers

—mixing

messy and unbalanced. You can something

less spicy

In

different shapes

in

the same dish

dilute the chili oil with salad oil

—but do make sure

that the dish retains

its

if

is

seen as

you want

deep red

color.

139

land of plenty

All

these recipes

will

serve 4 as a starter or 2 as a main dish, but you can

make them go further by serving them with

I.

CHICKEN CHUNKS hong you

few other appetizers or dishes.

a

RED-OIL SAUCE

IN ji

kuai

Red-oil sauce, which combines chile hotness with salty soy and

sweet undercurrents of

sugar,

and rabbit meat. The chicken

chunks (with chunks of

-;4

typically

is

recipe

in this

scallion),

used for cold chicken

or

in

generally served

is

slices

I

in

1/2 inches long

(with diagonally cut "horse ear" slices of scallion).

^

For about

I

pound cooked chicken meat (about

1

12 a chicken), cooled

i£i>

3-6 tablespoons

3-4 scallions, white and green parts

tablespoons light soy sauce 2 teaspoons vy^hite sugar 3

1

Cut the chicken

I

chili oil

with

chile flakes (see page 55) teaspoon sesame oil

salt to taste

into bite-sized chunks.

2 Cut the scallions into bite-sized lengths.

3 Mix the chicken and scallions

in

a serving dish and sprinkle with a

little

salt.

4 Combine the soy sauce and sugar sugar.

Add

the

chili

and sesame

in

a small

oils, stir

bowl and

well,

stir

to dissolve the

and then pour over the

chicken and scallion pieces. Mix well.

VARIATION This dressing data), 140

is

also used for an unusual vegetable, ze'er gen (Houttuynia cor-

which grows

in

the southern Yangtze River area. The tender leaves

APPETIZERS

and stems of

this purplish vegetable,

which has

a sour taste

watercress, are eaten raw as a great delicacy

little

like

early

summer. The leaves are sometimes tossed

lettuce

stem or fresh

like

and a texture a the spring and

in

a salad with slivers of

fava beans.

HOT-AND-NUMBING CHICKEN SLICES

2.

ma

^^

la ji

plan

Like the chili-oil sauce above, this dressing

richness of soy sauce with fiery

Z
chili

oil

combines the

salty

and a hint of sugar

sweetness, but with an extra zing from ground roasted Sichuan pepper.

Its

Chinese name comes from the two characters that

are the epitome of Sichuanese cooking for people

in

other parts

of China: ma, the strange, tingling, numbing taste sensations of

Sichuan pepper; and i

/

^

of chiles, but also that of ginger and black pepper. Restaurants

I

bowl and toss

For about

which means hotness, usually the hotness

tend to serve the chicken on a bed of

cooks ing

la,

I

just it

pour the sauce over the meat and

pound cooked chicken meat (about

chile flakes (see

2 Thinly

slice

home

scallions in a serv-

12 a chicken), cooled

1

sesame oil 1/2-1 teaspoon ground roasted Sichuan pepper

2 teaspoons

4-6 scallions, white parts only 4 teaspoons white sugar 3 tablespoons light soy sauce 3-6 tablespoons chili oil with

Cut the chicken

but most

like a salad.

salt to taste

1

scallions,

(see page 74)

page 55)

as evenly as possible into slices

the scallions diagonally,

I

and sprinkle with a

1/2 inches long, to

little salt.

form "horse ear"

slices.

3 Stir the sugar into the soy sauce to dissolve

it,

and then add the

oils.

141

land of plenty

4 Place the

scallion slices

on

and then add the chicken.

a serving dish,

5 Sprinkle with the ground pepper and drizzle with the sauce.

be gently mixed with chopsticks

3.

when your

The

dish can

guests are at the table.

FISH-FRAGRANT CHICKEN SLIVERS yu xiang

ji si

most commonly used in hot but the combination of flavors works equally well with

^

So-called fish-fragrant sauces are

,^

cold food, as this recipe shows.

dishes,

^

It's

a lovely, intensely flavored

sauce, dense with fresh ginger, garlic, scallion, and the famous

>.^^

Sichuan pickled chiles. The chiles and kick,

chili

oil

give

which never overwhelms the sweet-sour and

it

a gentle

salty notes,

and the red, green, and pale yellow colors are beautiful together. It's

^n^

fun to serve this and a couple of other, contrasting sauces

with a whole cold chicken, but you can also use

on ers or perhaps

its

own, draping

some

freshly

It

over a small

steamed

scallops.

pile

it

as a starter

of chicken or rabbit

The same sauce

is

also

sliv-

some-

times used as a dressing for deep-fried fresh peas.

For about

I

pound cooked chicken meat, cooled

2 or 3 scallions, green parts

only

tablespoon very finely chopped fresh ginger tablespoon very finely

I

I

chopped 3

I

garlic

tablespoons light soy sauce Cut the chicken

into slivers and lay

green parts of the

142

scallions.

tablespoon Chinkiang or black Chinese vinegar tablespoon white sugar 2 tablespoons chili oil 2 teaspoons sesame oil 1-2 tablespoons pickled chili paste I

I

them on

a serving dish. Finely slice the

APPETIZERS

2 Make sure the ginger and

very finely and evenly chopped.

garlic are

Combine the soy sauce, vinegar, and sugar in a small bowl and stir to disAdd the oils, and then the ginger, garlic, chili paste, and seal-

3

solve the sugar. lions.

Mix

well.

4 Pour the sauce over the chicken and serve. You may wish to mix the dish with chopsticks

when your

guests are at the table.

CHICKEN SLICES IN SICHUAN PEPPER AND SESAME OIL SAUCE 4.

jiao

This

summery sauce

Sichuan pepper

is

ma ji

is

plan

most commonly used with chicken. The

used raw, with a potency that

lowed by roasting, so

it

is

usually mel-

should be used with great caution by

newcomers to Sichuanese food. You can serve the chicken on a base of some crunchy vegetable like cucumber or celery if you wish let

For about

I

—

if

so,

it's

them

sit

for

best to sprinkle the cut vegetables with salt and

20-30 minutes to draw out excess water.

pound cooked chicken meat, cooled

teaspoon whole Sichuan pepper 5 scallions, green parts only /4 teaspoon salt 1/2-1

tablespoons chicken stock 2 tablespoons light soy sauce 1/2 tablespoons sesame oil

3

I

I

1

Set the Sichuan pepper aside to soak for a few minutes Slice

the chicken.

Remove and

in

very hot water.

discard the outer leaves of the scallions, and

finely slice the remainder.

2

If

you have a small food processor, whizz the

the Sichuan pepper and

salt.

scallions to a

green paste with

Otherwise, follow the traditional Sichuanese 143

land of plenty

method:

lay

pepper and

the scalllon slices on a cutting board, scatter with the Sichuan

and use a cleaver to reduce them to a

salt

fine paste.

You can

start by using a spice grinder (a coffee grinder used only for spices) to

the Sichuan pepper, which makes the chopping easier. For best

finely grind

results

3

sift

the peppercorn

Combine the stock, soy more salt to taste if you

powder to remove any remaining husky

sauce, and scallion paste wish.

Add

the sesame

in

oil.

bits.

a small bowl, adding

Drizzle the sauce over

the chicken slices and serve.

STRANGE-FLAVOR CHICKEN guai we;

(OTHERWISE

KNOWN

ji si

BANG BANG CHICKEN

—bang bang

»ri»

This tempting dish

ijS^

become

^

AS

is

ji si)

one of the few Sichuanese dishes to have

internationally popular while keeping something of

inal identity.

The name "bang bang chicken"

originates

from

its

orig-

a

town

near Leshan, to the south of Chengdu. This place, Hanyang Ba, has

|2K^t

long been famed for the quality of

^W

in

'^^^

the

West would

insects,

call

and leftovers from the

tieth century,

many Hanyang

chicken meat, draped

known

as

(bang) they used to

in

its

chickens, which are

what we

free-range birds, fed on scraps of grain, local

peanut crop. Early

in

the twen-

street vendors sold chunks of

a spicy sauce, as a snack. This

cooked

became

"bang bang chicken" because of the wooden cudgels

hammer

the backs of the cleaver blades to help

them

through the meat.The dish began to be featured on Chengdu menus from about the

1

920s, but by this time the

the chicken meat so that

it

wooden

cudgel was used to loosen the fibers of

could be torn into slivers by hand. The sauces for

bang bang chicken and strange-flavor chicken use more or dients, but in slightly different proportions slightly

144

combination of

less

local chefs say

heavier emphasis on the hot-and-numbing tastes

The curious name fying

—

in

the same ingre-

there should be a

bang bang chicken.

"strange-flavor" derives from a bizarre but deeply satissalty,

sweet, sour, nutty, hot, and numbing flavors.

The

APPETIZERS

taste of sesame, enlivened by hints of salt-sweet-sour, hits

followed by the per.

warm and

Any heaviness

scallions.

because

I

the sauce

in

is

have enjoyed so

many

first,

quickly

beautifully lightened by the freshness of the

have found this recipe one of the most

I

you

and roasted Sichuan pep-

tingling tastes of chili oil

difficult

different versions of

to

commit to

paper,

it.

Sichuanese cooks use a dark, toasty sesame paste to make the sauce, but it's

made with

equally delicious

commonly found

tahini

or the honey-colored sesame paste

Chinese supermarkets. You can

in

sprinkling of crushed, roasted peanuts

instead of scallions

—

it's

For about

I

you

let

some

into thin strips to

pound cooked chicken

1

lightly

with

salt at least

of their water drain away.

complement the chicken

I

salt to taste

3

the dish with a

30

The

slivers.

tablespoon sesame

oil

2 tablespoons chili oil with

I

I

finish

Cucumber can be used

nneat, cooled

6-8 scallions, white parts only tablespoon white sugar

I

like.

best to sprinkle the pieces

minutes before you need them, to

cucumber should be cut

if

page 55) teaspoon ground roasted Sichuan pepper (see page 74) teaspoons toasted sesame chile flakes (see

tablespoon light soy sauce tablespoon Chinkiang or black Chinese vinegar tablespoons well-blended Chinese sesame paste

1/2-1

3

seeds

Cut the chicken, with any remaining skin, into slivers about 1/2 inch wide. (If you want to be really authentic, hit it a few times with a rolling pin to loosen the fibers and then tear the flesh into shreds by hand.)

2 Cut the scallions into sections and then slivers.

slice

these lengthwise into fine

Put them into a bowl of cold water to refresh.

3 Stir the sugar and salt ally stir in

in

the soy sauce and vinegar

the sesame paste to

dients except the

make

a

until dissolved.

Gradu-

smooth sauce. Add the other

sesame seeds and mix

ingre-

well.

4 Shortly before serving, drain the scallions and

pile

them

neatly in the cen-

145

land of plenty

ter of your serving dish. Lay the chicken slivers on top of them. Pour over

the prepared sauce.

5 At the

last

minute, sprinkle with the sesame seeds.

VARIATION The same sauce can be used to dress cold

COLD PORK

rabbit meat.

HOT AND

IN

GARLICKY SAUCE suan

*

K

The dark dressing

rou

for this dish

made with

is

aroma (although

I

have added below an instant version of the

recipe that requires only the soy sauce

i

favorite spring and

summer

^> *^

beans

J^

in

is

boiled, tender

also

It's

half fat

fava

season.

and

half lean,

with the skin

ety of textures and tastes. is

a

com-

young

Sichuanese people would choose a piece of pork butt that

l>^ slice

your pantry).

in

sauce for cold pork, but

monly used for fresh cucumber or

each

a specially prepared

soy sauce that has undertones of sweetness and a delicate, spicy

^f^ '^Ip

ni bai

still

is

attached, to enjoy the vari-

The cooked meat

is

then cut so that

also half fat and half lean, with a thin edge of tender skin. You can

of course use an entirely lean piece of meat

if

you'd rather, or even the

overs from a pork roast, but the fatty Sichuanese version

is

most

left-

delicious.

The pork can be prepared a day in advance and refrigerated until you wish to use it. The sauce ingredients can also be mixed in advance except for the garlic puree, which must be added at the last minute to keep it fresh and fragrant. The

—

bean sprouts are optional like

—the meat

is

Serves 4 as a starter with one other dish

146

often served alone with the sauce, but

to have something fresh to counterbalance

its

richness.

I

APPETIZERS

for the sauce

generous pound of boneless pork tenderloin, in one

1

4 tablespoons sweet aromatic

soy sauce (see page 76) 2-4 tablespoons chili oil 2-3 teaspoons crushed garlic

piece

a

I

1/2-inch piece of fresh

ginger

2 teaspoons sesame for the garnish

2 scallions, white parts only 1/2

pound bean sprouts

oil

the green parts of a scallion,

or fresh coriander (cilantro) 1

2

Heat enough water to cover the pork

in

a

pot or wok. Crush the ginger

slightly

with the side of a cleaver blade or a heavy object.

When

the water

after a

few seconds. Throw

is

boiling furiously, in

add the meat and skim the surface

the ginger and scallions, bring back to a boil

and then turn the heat down. Simmer minutes, depending on

its

—

skewer into the thickest part

ing a

until

the meat

thickness. You can see

no pink

if

is

just

whether

juices

cooked, 30-60

it's

ready by pok-

ooze out,

it's

properly

cooked.

3

When some until

the pork

is

ready, place

skin side

of the cooking liquid, and allow

you wish to use

it

—

disintegrate as you slice

stock

it

if

it

this will help it.

down

in

a bowl,

to cool. Place

it

in

cover

with

the refrigerator

to firm up the texture so

(Keep the remaining cooking

it

liquid

it

doesn't

to use as

you wish.)

4 Shortly before serving, blanch the bean sprouts for about 20 seconds plenty of boiling water. Rinse

in

in

cold water and then drain well.

5 Cut the pork as thinly and evenly as possible into large

slices (traditionally

about

2 inches by 4 inches), preferably each with a mixture of fat and lean meat.

6 Combine the sauce ingredients

in

a small bowl.

7 Arrange the blanched bean sprouts on a serving

on top, and then

dish. Pile the

pork

slices

drizzle with the spicy sauce. Garnish with sliced scallions

(green parts) or chopped fresh coriander (cilantro).

147

land of plenty

VARIATION Instant hot garlicky sauce The following quick version can be used

if

you don't wish to prepare the

special soy sauce required for the recipe above.

4 tablespoons light soy sauce

2 teaspoons crushed garlic

2 tablespoons white sugar

2 teaspoons

2-4 tablespoons

Stir

sesame

oil

chili oil

the sugar into the soy sauce to dissolve

it.

Add

all

the other ingredients.

RABBITWITH PEANUTS IN HOT BEAN SAUCE hua ren ban

^^

This splendid autumn dish

^-^^

but

X^

it

also

works very

is

tu ding

typical of

Sichuanese

home

well with bread and a couple of salads as

part of a Western-style lunch. nicely with the crisp peanuts

The tender

and crunchy

rabbit flesh contrasts

scallions; the

glossy dark red and robustly spicy. The following recipe

4*lfe

related to the

famous "second

^i^

invented by a

skillful

M

dish

was so

delicious

sister rabbit

cubes"

sauce is

is

a

closely

(er jie tu ding)

Chengdu woman called Chen Yonghui. Her that it even became the subject of a poem

A^i _

written by a

~\

roasted Sichuan pepper, crushed peanuts, and toasted sesame

member

of the local

literati.

extra touch, we're told, was to add a

seeds.

Serves 4 as a starter or as part of a

148

cooking,

light

salady iuncti

final

Mrs. Chen's special sprinkling of

ground

APPETIZERS

for the sauce

a 2-inch piece of fresh ginger,

tablespoon fermented blacl< beans 3 tablespoons peanut oil 2 1/2 tablespoons Sichuan chili bean paste 2 teaspoons light soy sauce 1/4 teaspoon white sugar teaspoon sesame oil optional: 1-2 tablespoons chili

unpeeled 2 scallions, white and green

'

parts

about a pound of cooked rabbit

meat

4 scallions, white parts only

cup roasted or deep-fried unsalted peanuts

2/3

'

oil

1

Optional

first step:

blanch the rabbit

in

plenty of boiling water for 5-10

seconds to remove any bloodiness. 2 Bring a separate pot of water to a

boil.

Crush the ginger and whole

lions slightly with the side of a cleaver blade

3

When

the water

is

boiling,

add the

or a heavy object.

rabbit, return to a boil,

the ginger and scallions and simmer over a gentle heat

cooked. When lions.

When

off the

it is

scal-

until

and skim. Add

the meat

is

done, remove and drain, discarding the ginger and

the rabbit has cooled, chop

it

into

I-

to

1/2-inch cubes,

I

just scal-

on or

bone.

4 Mash the fermented black beans, either with your fingertips or using a

mortar and

pestle.

Heat the peanut

hot but not smoking.

until

Add

oil

the

in

chili

a

wok

beans, and stir-fry for about 30 seconds until the richly fragrant, taking care

not to

let

5

oil

is

a glossy red and

the flavorings burn. Tip into a small

mixing bowl, add the soy sauce, sugar, sesame

mix

over a moderate flame

bean paste and mashed black

oil,

and

chili oil

if

desired, and

well.

Chop

the white parts of the scallions into 1/2-inch sections.

6 Just before serving, combine the rabbit cubes, bowl. Pour over the sauce and toss

like a salad,

and peanuts

in

a

making sure everything

is

scallions,

evenly coated.

149

— land of plenty

VARIATIONS Chicken meat can be used as a substitute for seen

it

prepared

this

rabbit, although I've

never

way by Sichuanese cooks.

For a vegetarian version (dry bean curd with peanuts

hua ren dou

fu gan),

use cubes of firm bean curd instead of the rabbit.

HARICOTS VERTS

GINGER SAUCE

IN

Jiang zhi jiang dou

In

Sichuan, this dish

is

usually

made with

"yard-long beans," those

beans that are sold by the bunch

-I-

fine, string-like

if

perfectly acceptable substitutes.

in

The same

dressing can also be

used as a sauce for blanched Chinese spinach or other vegetables, blanched

snow

,jiJL^

isn't fresh,

tender, and fragrant, the sauce

make sure the ginger

is

leafy

green

peas, and cold chicken. The delicacy of

the sauce means you must use the best ingredients

j5

Asian super-

markets. Haricots verts (fine French beans) or green beans are

is

—

if

the ginger

not worth making.

Do

very finely and evenly chopped, for the

sake both of appearance and of texture. You could use water as a substitute for the chicken stock, but obviously at the expense of subtler flavors.

Serves 4 as a starter with or)e other dish

salt

a generous pound of haricots verts or green beans

FOR THE SAUCE 4 teaspoons very finely

tablespoons chicken stock 2 teaspoons Chinklang or black Chinese vinegar 3

Salt to taste

4 teaspoons

sesame

oil

chopped fresh ginger 1

Trim the beans and cut them into 2-inch sections.

2 Bring a large pot of water to a

ISO

boil. Salt

generously, then add the beans.

APPETIZERS

Return quickly to a Rinse immediately

boil in

and cook for 2-3 minutes,

Arrange the beans neatly on a serving

3

Combine the light

in

a colander.

dish.

ginger with the stock and vinegar

to taste, then add the sesame

salt

until just crisp-tender.

cold running water and shake dry

in

a small bowl. Season with

(The vinegar should lend the sauce a

oil.

"tea color" and gentle sourness.) Pour the sauce over the beans.

LAMP-SHADOW SWEET POTATO CHIPS deng ying shao pian

Sweet potatoes are

food, a substitute for rice

where the

^A

in

the mountains of western Sichuan

cultivation of rice

have to use crops

be poor man's

traditionally considered to

like this,

is

impossible and local farmers

one which

clings

more

readily to the

*^*^

arid land. In times of famine during the twentieth century, the

'^^

communist government sent

w

Ij^

/p

chips to rural areas this dish

out of

is

relief

supplies

of sweet potato

where there was nothing

else to eat. But

a fancy banquet appetizer, an extravagance

this

most

times. The crude,

basic of staples, perhaps a

muddy potatoes

cooked up

symbol of better

are transformed into translu-

cent wisps of crispiness, piled delicately on the serving dish, and dressed piquant red sauce.

In

China they are served at high-level banquets.

West, they go deliciously with a

come

variation

on the

Makes a generous

svyreet

potatoes peanut oil for deep-frying

FOR THE SAUCE tablespoons

wine or a martini as an

aperitif, a

theme.

bowlful of sweet potato chips

about a pound of

3

glass of

tortilla chip

chili oil

tablespoon sesame oil 3/4 teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons white sugar I

In

in

a

the wel-

land of plenty

1

Wash and Chengdu lar,

peel the

sweet potatoes. Cut them into the thinnest possible

preferably using a mandoline or a food processor. Banquet chefs

slices,

but

trim their potatoes so that the slices are perfectly rectangu-

will

usually take

I

in

them

as they

come. Soak the

water to remove excess starch and crisp them

slices in cold, salted

up.

2 Mix the sauce ingredients together.

3

Heat

them

wok

a

in

oil

potato

slices

for deep-frying to about 250°F. Thoroughly pat the

dry and add them a batch at a time to the wok, dropping

separately and stirring with long chopsticks to

in

make sure they

don't stick together. Fry until they are golden, crisp, and translucent, taking great care not to

calm

it

slotted

eat

down).

let

When

the

oil

overheat (add a

each batch

is

little

spoon and drain well on paper towels.

them immediately, put them

cool

oil

if

necessary to

cooked, remove from the pan with a If

you are not intending to

into an airtight jar as

soon

as they have

cooled.

4 To serve, toss the chips gently

them up

on a serving

elegantly

in

the sauce to coat them evenly and

dish.

pile

Serve immediately.

VARIATIONS Omit the

sugar from the sauce and use a

per (see page 74) or

and-numbing" {ma

oil

little

ground roasted Sichuan pep-

infused with Sichuan pepper instead for a "hot-

la) flavor.

Cut the sweet potatoes

into very fine slivers and soak and fry

them

as

above, but omit the sauce and sprinkle this "sweet potato floss" {hong shao song) with a

little

white sugar.

Large, red-skinned radishes or daikons can also be slivered, soaked, and fried in the

brown

152

same manner, but they are

sugar.

usually served with a sprinkling of

APPETIZERS

PRESERVED EGGS

WITH GREEN PEPPERS qing jiao pi dan

^

First

encounters with the delicacy known

in

West

the

as "thou-

sand-year-old eggs" can be disconcerting for Westerners

to admit

I

was revolted by

came across them

yfc^f

people

who

in

—

I

Hong Kong. But now adore them, and most I

actually try

them

find

them

—something

delicious

an exaggerated egg with their rich, creamy yolks. The secret

Yf?

^"^

have

I

their gray-black color the first time

my

discovered through experimenting on

friends

is

like

have

I

to close your

first bite, so that you taste them without prejudice. The preserved duck eggs sold in Chinese markets in the West are the more mature, darker ones favored by the Cantonese. They have gray yolks, creamiiy liquid in places, and their whites are a dark but translucent jelly. The milder preserved eggs eaten by the Sichuanese

eyes for the

*rf

^^^

are less daunting for foreigners, although their taste usually

still

Their yolks are

similar.

yellow, but tinged with gray or green, and their whites are an

amber-colored talline

is

jelly.

Sometimes the whites are threaded with

patterns reminiscent of

quail eggs are also

popular

in

The raw eggs are caked

fossils.

Duck

fern-like, crys-

eggs are generally used, although

Sichuan. in

a paste

made from

ash, often with the addition of tea leaves

soda, quicklime,

or grain husks, and then

age for about three months. This method

salt,

left in

and

stor-

thought to have been used

is

In

China for about seven centuries. Until

about 1998

in

Britain these eggs

were imported and

with their thick encrustation of ash and lime

still

intact, piled

sold individually

up

in

waist-high

ceramic pots encircled by sculpted dragons. But sadly some bureaucratic decision had

them banned

are sold

washed clean and packaged mundanely

in

favor of preserved eggs produced

vors are less subtle, but they are

still

in plastic

an interesting treat.

in

the U.K., which

egg-boxes. Their If

fla-

you do manage to

work off the paste with your fingers, wash the shells in cold water, and pick them open like hard-boiled eggs. The following simple recipe is one of my favorite Sichuanese starters.

find the

encrusted eggs, just

Serves 4 as a starter with one or two ottier disties

153

land of plenty

I

I

green bell pepper teaspoon peanut oil for cooking

preserved duck eggs light soy sauce

3

chili oil

(optional)

salt to taste

1

Cut the pepper

in

and remove stem and seeds. Flatten

half

whacking with the side of 2 Heat

a cleaver blade

tablespoon of peanut

I

oil

in

a

wok

until tender.

the peppers and pressing them into the base of the wok.

Add

cooled down, chop them

Shell the

peppers

salt

to taste

when they have

finely.

preserved eggs and cut each into 8 sections. in

Keep turning

are nearly done.

3 Turn the pepper pieces out onto a cutting board and,

4

by

over a medium flame. Add the

green pepper pieces and fry for several minutes,

when they

slightly

or a heavy object.

Pile

up the chopped

the middle of a shallow serving plate and surround with slices of

egg arranged

like

the petals of a flower Pour 2-3 tablespoons of soy sauce

over the peppers and drizzle with

to taste.

chili oil

Some

of

my

Sichuanese

friends add a pinch of sugar, too.

SWEET-AND-SOUR RED PEPPERS tang cu tian jiao

Sweet peppers are also known

in

Chinese as lantern peppers {deng

long jiao) because they look a bit like China's traditional festive red

^ I

'Sq ^jgj^

lanterns. In Sichuanese cooking, they are often stir-fried with beef, but they also feature in a

number

lowing mellow, gentle starter, which '"^"^

'"^

Chengdu,

is

easy to prepare.

I

It

pork or

of cold banquet dishes.The

fol-

enjoyed at the Shufeng restau-

needs to be served with one or

—

two other dishes with contrasting tastes and textures perhaps some smoked duck or other cold meat and a crisp green vegetable (olives might be a nice accompaniment, too, although they're not Sichuanese).

The same sauce can be used 154

as a dressing for

other cold vegetable dishes.

APPETIZERS

Serves 4 as a starter with one or two other dishes

2 red bell peppers

3

1

salt to taste

2 teaspoons

teaspoons white sugar teaspoons clear rice vinegar

3

Cut the peppers a

few minutes

2 Rinse but

in

it

oil

and remove the stems and seeds. Steam or

in half

until just

sesame

boil for

cooked.

cold water, and then peel away the skins (this step can be omitted,

gives a

more sensuous

result).

Cut the peppers

into strips and put

into a mixing bowl.

3 Dissolve the sugar

4 Pour oil

this

in

the vinegar.

Add

I

or 2 pinches of

salt

to taste.

sauce over the peppers and toss together. Then add the sesame

and toss once

again.

5 Arrange prettily on a serving plate.

STEAMED EGGPLANTS WITH CHILE SAUCE hor)g you qie zi

^"^ '^^^

.^1^

^^1 - »

yi|2

^

Eggplants are rich

most commonly cooked

and buttery

in

interesting because

in oil,

taste and texture. it

shows an

The

which makes them following recipe

is

entirely different side to this

delicious vegetable, a pale, soft juiciness and delicate flavor This

homey The sauce

is

Jun for a festive dinner

in

dish

is

a very

restaurants.

starter,

which you won't

based on one made by

find

my

in

fancy

friend

Xu

her rooms at Sichuan University.

155

land of plenty

Serves 4 as a starter with two or three other dishes

2 large eggplants or an

equivalent

amount

11/2 teaspoons Chlnkiang or black Chinese vinegar 2 teaspoons sugar 2 tablespoons chili oil with chile flakes (see page 55) teaspoon sesame oil

of

slender Asian eggplants (6-8,

depending on

size)

salt 3

1

tablespoons light soy sauce you are using

If

cut sides

lightly

I

them, cut them

large eggplants, trim

with

salt.

in half,

Leave for at least half an hour to draw out the

ter juices. Asian eggplants

do not need

this

treatment and can be

2 Steam the eggplants over a high flame for 5-10 minutes,

them

if

left

bit-

whole.

until tender. Peel

desired. Leave to cool and then cut into chunks (tiny Asian egg-

plants can simply be split

3

and sprinkle the

in half

lengthwise).

Combine the soy sauce, vinegar, and sugar solve the sugar. Add the oils.

4 Serve the eggplants with the sauce

in

a small bowl, stirring to dis-

as a dip.

BITTER MELON WITH SESAME OIL xiang you

Bitter

.^f^

1^

^

it

isn't

to everyone's taste, and Chinese chefs rarely

terness.

^

it.

In this

and the sesame

work

well

on

may

find

^ dip)

they love

recipe a quick blanching

taste,

its

oil,

who

However, those

as always,

list

is

in

enjoy the taste of

its

salted

limpid green bit-

water lightens the

delicious.

The

dish doesn't

own, but should be served with a couple of other

appetizers, perhaps a plate of cold

J^ pepper

like

chicory and dark chocolate

JjCik

gua

on their English-language menus because they are convinced

Westerners won't

-

^M

156

melon

l<.u

meat with

dried chiles for dipping (they are used dry,

and something soothing

like

a small pile of

like

ground

a salt-and-Sichuan-

sweet-and-sour red peppers.

APPETIZERS

Serves 4 as a starter with two or three other dishes

3/4

pound

bitter

melon

salt to taste

(about 1/2 a large one^or or 2 smaller melons)

1

Cut the melon

Chop each

in half

2 teaspoons sesame oil 3-4 tablespoons chicken stock

I

lengthwise and scoop out the seeds and pithy part.

half into sections

about 2 inches

long,

and then cut these into

long, thin slices.

2 Bring a pot of water to a

melon ness"

slices,

—the

return to a

slices

boil

boil,

and throw

a

in

and blanch them

should remain

al dente.

Add

salt.

little

the bitter

"break the raw-

briefly to

Drain and refresh immediately

under cold running water.

3

In

a bowl,

the stock.

smear the Pile

bitter

melon with

salt

and sesame

then pour over

oil,

the slices neatly on a small round plate to serve.

VARIATIONS Green peas with sesame oil

(xiang you qing yuan), red peppers with

oil

{xiang you tian jiao), broccoli florets with

hua), cauliflower with

tender vegetables

in

sesame

boiling

oil

oil.

oil

sesame

{xiang you xi nan

{xiang you hua cai), and so on: blanch fresh,

Just before serving, sprinkle

chicken stock and sesame

oil

water and then refresh them

larger vegetables evenly into bite-size pieces.

sesame

sesame

them with more

cold water.

Cut

a

and

in

Smear with

salt

little

salt

and dress with

to taste.

157

land of plenty

DAIKON SLIVERS

A SPICY DRESSING

IN

Hang ban luo bu

Raw

si

dishes are traditionally rare

in

Chinese cooking.

times, China {zhong guo, which literally

was thought by the Chinese to be the fount of all

who

beyond the reach of

lived

culture

its

ancient

In

means "middle kingdom") civilization;

were

those

barbarians.

The

Chinese divided their barbarians into the "raw" {sheng) and the

'^^

"cooked"

(shu) according to the

raw food were seen

as the

most

food they

the sauce

I've

encountered.

It is

flavor.

Serves

4-6

much

in

larger than those found

is

find

many raw

one of the handful

comes from

Chengdu. the

in

West and

have a

teaspoon

3-4 tablespoons

salt

chili oil

to

taSte

4 teaspoons white sugar

2 scallions, green parts only,

4 teaspoons Chinkiang or

very finely sliced a handful of fresh coriander

black Chinese vinegar I

on

1-2 teaspoons crushed garlic

FOR THE SAUCE

tablespoon pickled

Wash and cut

them

mix

well,

chili

paste

(cilantro)

trim the daikons. Use a cleaver, mandoline, or food processor to into very fine slivers,

and then spread out

about 30 minutes, to

let

some

in

about

1/8 inch thick. Sprinkle

a colander or

bamboo

to dissolve the sugar.

Add

with the

salt,

basket and leave for

of their water drain away.

2 Just before serving, combine the sugar and vinegar

158

lived

as a starter with two or ttiree other dishes

a generous pound of daikon

1

won't

typically Sichuanese. This particular recipe

is

Asian radishes are milder

who

extremely easy to prepare, and

the Converging Rivers Fish Restaurant

I

still

dishes on the Sichuanese table. The following of raw dishes

those

uncivilized. These days the stigma

seems to have disappeared, although you

f

ate:

the pickled

chili

in

a small

bowl and

stir

paste and garlic and mix well.

APPETIZERS

Pour

in

the

dish to be

chili oil

too

coriander and

(you can dilute

spicy).

stir

Add

with salad

it

guests to mix the dressing

in

sauce can be

them with the

dressing.

Allow your

at the table.

made with

teaspoon white sugar 2 teaspoons light soy sauce 1/2 teaspoon Chinkiang or black Chinese vinegar stir

you don't want the

the sliced scallions, and then finely chop the

the following ingredients:

4 tablespoons

1/2

Simply

if

it in.

3 Shake the daikon slivers dry and drizzle

VARIATIONS An alternative

oil

2 teaspoons

chili oil

sesame

oil

teaspoon Sichuan pepper

I

if

oil,

available

the sugar into the soy sauce and vinegar, and then add the

oils.

Either of these dressings can also be used for slivers of carrot or other

raw

vegetables.

LETTUCE

IN

SESAME SAUCE

ma Jiang The Sichuanese use

xian cai

this nutty

sauce to dress various types of

variety meats, as well as the leafy stems of a delicious local lettuce, which are cut into

sometimes blanched immediately

in

in

frilly

"phoenix

boiling

cold water).

In

tail" pieces.

The

lettuce

is

water before use (and refreshed the following recipe

I've

suggested

using lettuce hearts or crisp lettuce leaves, but you can vary the

vegetable as you please.

Cucumber

is

a pleasant substitute.

Serves 2 as a starter, 4 with two or three other dishes

1

59

land of plenty

3/4 pound crisp lettuce FOR THE SAUCE

a pinch of sugar

leaves

Salt to taste

tablespoons Chinese sesanne paste or dark tahini 2 teaspoons sesame oil

optional garnish: 1/2 teaspoon

5

1

Clean the lettuce.

If

toasted sesame seeds

using lettuce hearts, quarter

them lengthwise;

crisp leaves can be used whole. Arrange the lettuce pieces neatly

on

small,

a serv-

ing plate.

2 Combine the sesame paste and

oil

in

a small

bowl and season with the

sugar and salt to taste. (The sauce should have a luxurious pouring consistency:

it

can be thinned

Pour over the lettuce

if

necessary with a

little

leaves. Sprinkle with the

groundnut or salad

sesame seeds,

if

oil.)

using,

and

serve.

IN

FRESH FAVA BEANS A SIMPLE STOCK SAUCE yan shui hu dou

The

fava

bean

is

been cultivated

native to

West

Asia and North Africa, but has

China since ancient times.

in

thought to have

It is

reached China during the Han Dynasty, at around the time of ^J'K

Christ, and

its

Sichuanese dialect name

bean"), a sign that

JpH ^

^

jir ^

like

it

is

still

hu dou ("foreign

belongs to a family of Han Dynasty imports

black pepper and cucumber, which share the

(The character hu, which peoples

living

originally referred to the

same

to the north and west of China, also appears

kinds of phrases meaning to talk nonsense, to rave

man, or to

prefix.

non-Chinese

really

mess things up

—which

gives

what the ancient Chinese thought of foreigners.) The fava mon Chinese name is can dou ("silkworm bean"), because

like a

in all

mad-

you some idea of bean's its

more com-

pod

is

thought

to resemble the adult silkworm. Sichuan

160

is

China's center of fava bean cultivation, and the fresh beans

APPETIZERS

often crop up on local seasonal menus.

times eaten

in

cold dishes

this

like

famously, one of the key ingredients of

Sometimes they are

stir-fried,

other

one. The dried beans are also, most chili

bean paste.

Serves 4 as a starter with two or three other dishes

3/4

pound

shelled, skinned

3

or 4 Sichuan pickled red chiles

fava beans (about 2 pounds in

1/2 1/2

or

teaspoon salt teaspoon sesame

Blanch the fava beans just

1/2

water for

boiling

in

cooked. Refresh immediately

teaspoon of

and

salt

2 Cut the pickled lozenge shapes.

a red bell pepper

4 tablespoons chicken stock oil

1/2

1

1/2

for the sauce

their pods)

1/2

chiles, If

if

in

teaspoon sesanne teaspoon salt minute or two

a

until

teaspoon of sesame

oil.

using, in half lengthwise

Leave to cool.

and then diagonally into small

using red pepper, blanch briefly

in

a small bowl.

they are

cold water, drain, and smear with 1/2

in

boiling water, refresh in

cold water, and then cut into small squares or lozenge shapes.

sauce ingredients

oil

Combine the

Mix everything together to serve.

VARIATIONS Fresh soybeans

in

a simple stock sauce {yan shui qirig dou).

Fresh fava beans with shrimp

pepper and substitute leave the shrimp

Fresh fava beans given

in

in it

in

1/2

{jin

gou hu dou): omit the pickled chiles or red

ounce of dried shrimp. (Bring water to a

boil

and

to soak for about 30 minutes, until soft.)

hot and garlicky sauce {suan

ni

hu dou): use the sauce

the recipe for cold pork on page 146.

ZHA SHOU DISHES AND OTHER DELICIOUS SNACKS In

the street markets of Sichuan, there's usually a

snacks and cold foods

made by

a

method

stall

— known

as

or two specializing

zha shou

in

—

that leaves

161

land of plenty

meat and

pieces of

chewy, glossy, and sumptuously moist with

fish

of aromatic oils and spices.

home

the

When

of the famous Pixian

or more by one such

went to the town of Pixian bean paste, was distracted

I

chili

I

—

isons,

and sweet-and-sour spare

and chatted to the

search of

for an hour

wisps of intensely sweet "shrimp's

little

whisker" beef, sesame seed-scattered pork beef,

in

manner

Ten or twelve great platters were piled high with

stall.

the most mouthwatering snacks

shadow"

all

vendor

stall

translucent slices of "lamp-

slivers,

ribs.

as the

I

made comparfactory seemed less

nibbled, sniffed,

bean paste

make it there in the end). Because their cooking methods involve several stages, zha shou dishes are not often cooked at home, but are bought in the markets or enjoyed in restaurants. The basic methods are not difficult, however, and the results are worth the labor, particularly if you want to make them in large quantities for a party. The sweet-and-sour spare ribs have almost universal appeal, and those with a taste for hot food will adore the more unusual flavors of the rabbit and

compelling

less

(I

did

with Sichuan pepper or the hot-and-numbing dried beef.

Zha shou ing

literally

means "deep-fry and draw

in,"

a description of the cook-

method, which involves deep-frying pieces of marinated meat or

they are crisp and golden and then simmering them

As the water

flavorings.

the meat.

The

dish

is

in

A

finished with a dressing of spicy oils and

related dish, and

—

paper

numbing"

one of Sichuan's most famous snacks, beef

all

Zhen,

it

who was

During

his

Zhen, they

was discovered by given an

official

in

say,

"lamp-shadow" and "hot-and-

posting

in

"loved the people

like his

sometimes dressed

in

its

most celebrated

ver-

the town of Daxian. According to

a ninth-century

Tang Dynasty poet. Yuan

the town that

tenure, a drought caused famine

their suffering he

a

wonderful introduction to famous Sichuan dishes (see

"lamp-shadow" beef made

local legend,

is

juicy with chili oil

page 382), Zhang Furu describes the origins of one of sions, the

sometimes

sesame seeds.

thin, translucent slices of

spices. In his

and

a mixture of stock

the stock evaporates, the flavors are "drawn in" by

scattering of ground spices or

beef

in

fish until

among

own

is

now

called Daxian.

the local population. Yuan

son," and out of concern for

humble clothes and mingled

in

the

vil-

lages and markets. One day, as he was on his way home at dusk, he felt so weary and hungry that he stumbled into a wine shop to rest. The owner took pity on him and plied him with wine and morsels of dried beef. The large slices of

held

162

beef were so paper thin that the golden

light

them up to the lamp. Their hot-and-numbing

shone through when he

flavors,

with a long, dreamy

APPETIZERS

were so exquisite that they left him speechless. He asked the name owner just laughed and told him to give it a name himself. That evening, he took the recipe for "lamp-shadow" beef back to the cook at his official residence and served it to his friends until its fame spread all over aftertaste,

of the dish, but the

the region.

The cooking method

for this delicacy

of lean beef are rubbed with

salt,

lated place. They are then spread

dying embers, and later steamed.

and

finally

they are dressed

powders, with sesame

oil

in

this skill

and sold either

chili,

in

market

stalls

munching on long bus or railway journeys. you

a taste of the

of

and Sichuan pepper

The laborious method and advanced cutmean that it is made by producers specialized

which are of a similar character but offer

five-spice,

fire

until translucent,

sugar.

ting skills required for this dish in

Next they are deep-fried

slices

a well-venti-

in

out on a rack and baked gently over a

a mixture of

and

extremely complicated. Thin

is

rolled up, and left to dry out

less

I

or

in

small plastic packages for

hope that the following

daunting for the

home

recipes,

cook,

will

marvelous family of snacks to which "lamp-shadow"

beef belongs.

HOT-AND-NUMBING DRIED BEEF ma

M

These dark, chewy flavors of Sichuan.

la niu

rou gan

strips of beef are delicious, bursting with the

They can be served

as a

banquet starter or

eaten as a very casual snack, perhaps with drinks. For bring back

memories of

difficult

in

they

but spectacular journeys into the

mountains of western Sichuan, when

them

me

my

friends and

I

used to buy

packages and munch them with peanuts whenever the

bus broke down.

Makes

I

— enough for 4 people as a starter with

bowlful of dried beef

a couple of other dishes or as a nibble with drinks

163

land of plenty

about a pound of lean beef (flank steak is good) peanut oil for deep-frying FOR THE BOILING

a

ginger, unpeeled

2 scallions, white parts only I

1/2

small piece of cassia bark or

1

THE DRESSING

a cinnamon stick I

cao guo (see page

1-2 tablespoons

I

I

to

teaspoon ground roasted Sichuan pepper (see page 74) 1-2 teaspoons ground Sichuan chiles to taste 2 teaspoons sesame oil 2 teaspoons toasted white 1/2-1

/2-inch piece of fresh

ginger,

unpeeled

4 scallions, white parts only 1/2

chili oil,

taste

62)

FOR THE MARINADE a

tablespoons white sugar

teaspoon salt tablespoon dark soy sauce

Star anise

1

1/2

teaspoon

salt

2 teaspoons Shaoxing rice

wine or medium-dry sherry FOR THE SIMMERING 2 tablespoons peanut

Optional

first

then rinse

it

beef for a few seconds

boil in a

the beef

is

Cut the beef with the

them

place

all in

juices.

pot of fresh water with the star anise,

down and simmer

done, remove

it

grain into

grain into 1/2-inch strips.

water and

boiling

in

under the tap to remove some of the bloody

cao guo, and then turn the heat

When

sesame seeds

oil

step: blanch the

2 Bring the beef to a

3

1/2

I

optional:

1

1/2-inch piece of fresh

I

Chop

until

it is

cassia,

and

cooked through.

to a cutting board, reserving the stock,

1/2-inch slices, and then cut against the

the strips

in half

if

they are very long, and

a bowl. Slightly crush the ginger and scallions for the mari-

nade with the side of a cleaver blade or a heavy object and then chop them into a

few pieces. Add them to the beef with

Shaoxing rice wine, mixing

4 Heat

oil

the

164

oil

until

1/2

teaspoon of

salt

and the

marinate for about 30 minutes.

Add the beef and red-brown and crispy. Remove with a

for deep-frying to 300-325° F.

4 minutes drain.

well. Set aside to

deep-fry for about slotted

spoon and

(The scallion and ginger from the marinade can be discarded.) Pour into a heatproof dish.

APPETIZERS

5 Heat another 2 tablespoons of

second batch of ginger and until

the

oil

the sugar,

oil in

a

wok

has taken on their fragrances.

salt,

until

Add

begins to smoke.

evaporated, leaving the beef the stove and

stir in

the dressing

the

2 cups of the reserved stock,

until

oils

boil,

and then

the water has entirely

just a little glossy, delicious

in

Add

and fry for 30-60 seconds

and the dark soy sauce. Add the beef, bring to a

sirnmer over a gentle flame for 20-30 minutes

wok from

it

scallions, also crushed,

Remove the

oil.

and spices. Mix

well.

6 Just before serving, sprinkle with the toasted sesame seeds.

SPICY BEEF SLICES

WITH TANGERINE PEEL chen

The

p^ t^ ryL

OX •

in

pi niu rou

peel of mandarin oranges or tangerines

Many people keep the

Sichuan.

rarely

thrown away

them up in the open air to dry. It's a habit I've fallen into myself, whenever eat fragrant, thin-skinned tangerines. just take off the peel in one or two long pieces, drape them over a piece of string in a sunny window, and leave them for a few days until they are bone dry. If they are then stored in an airtight jar, they keep amazI

I

—even

.<3

ingly well

•'^

overwhelmed by

after a year

you have only to open the

their sumptuous, fruity fragrance.

dark brown dried tangerine peel its

is

peelings from the fruit and string

fragrance

is

Tangerine peel

is

not often used

ciated with this intriguingly flavored

quet menus.

in

rarely as wonderful as the best

It is

in

dish,

to be

Chinese supermarkets, though

homemade

Sichuan cooking, but

little

lid

You can buy

kind. it is

particularly asso-

which frequently crops up on ban-

seasoned with the hallmark Sichuanese spices, dried

chiles

and

Sichuan pepper, but also has a lingering tangerine taste and fragrance and just a hint of sweetness.

If

you use pale homemade

peel,

it is

also beautiful to look at as

you cook, the dark, simmering beef surrounded by the orange-colored peel and dark red

chiles. This dish

a dinner party.

keeps well and can be made a day or two

Do remember when

spices or tangerine peel

—

just

lift

in

advance of

eating that you don't have to eat the fried

out the pieces of meat with your chopsticks.

165

land of plenty

Makes a generous

bowlful,

enough

for

4-6 people

as a nibble with drinks or as part

of a starter course

about a pound of lean beef (flank steak is good) peanut oil for deep-frying

a generous handful of dried Sichuanese chiles (1/2-1 ounce)

FOR THE MARINADE a

I

2 teaspoons whole Sichuan

pepper cup everyday stock (see page 3 8) or chicken stock 1/2 teaspoon salt 3 teaspoons sugar teaspoon dark soy sauce tablespoon Sichuanese fermented rice wine or Shaoxing rice wine AND FINALLY teaspoon sesame oil

1/2-inch piece of fresh

ginger, unpeeled scaliion,

1

I

white and green

1

parts

teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons Shaoxing rice wine or medium-dry sherry 1/2

I

I

FOR THE SAUCE dried tangerine peel

I

1

Soak the tangerine peel

enough cold water to cover for

in

2 Cut the beef across the grain into 2 l/2-inch-square

any

thick, discarding

fat

or

gristly bits. Place in a

at least an hour.

slices,

about

1/8 inch

bowl. Slightly crush the gin-

ger and scallions with the side of a cleaver blade or a heavy object and roughly chop them. ents. Let sit for

3

Add them

to the beef with the other marinade ingredi-

30 minutes.

Wearing rubber

gloves, snip the chiles

in

half

or into

I

1/2-inch sections

with a pair of scissors and discard the seeds. Snip the tangerine peel into I

1/2-inch strips, reserving the fragrant soaking liquid.

4 Heat peanut oil

oil

for deep-frying to 325-375°F.

to the beef to help keep the slices separate,

into the hot

oil.

Deep-fry for a minute or two

then remove and drain. Reheat the

wok, and deep-fry for

brown drain.

166

Add

in

color

(this

a

oil

second time

2 teaspoons of peanut

stir well,

until

and drop them

they are cooked, and

to 350-375°F, return the beef to the until

the slices are crisp and deep

should take another minute or two).

Remove and

(The scaliion and ginger from the marinade can be discarded.)

APPETIZERS

wok

5 Return the

When

stir-fry for

them (add and

medium flame with about

to a

hot, but not smoking-hot,

it is

1

a

0-20 seconds cool

little

stir-fry for a

oil

until

if

add the

1/3

chiles

they are fragrant, taking great care not to burn

until

you can smell

the stock, the beef, the tangerine soaking water, and

to time

until

oil.

they are overheating).Then add the tangerine peel

few seconds more

dients. Bring to a boil

cup of the cooking

and Sichuan pepper and

all

its

Add

fragrance, too.

the other sauce ingre-

and simmer gently for 20-30 minutes, stirring from time

the stock has evaporated, leaving only a rich, oily sauce.Turn onto

a serving dish

and drizzle with the sesame

oil.

Serve at

room temperature.

VARIATIONS The same

flavors

and cooking technique can be used to cook rabbit or

chicken. Because these meats are very pale, you

may wish to add

a

little

dark soy sauce to the marinade to give them a richer color.

For vegetarians:

I

crispy, deep-fried

to add a

little

have also tried this recipe successfully with small cubes of

bean curd

—

omit the marinade stage. (You may wish

just

extra salt to the simmering sauce.)

BEEF SLIVERS WITH SESAME SEEDS zhi

ma

niu rou

si

^jfj^

The Sichuanese

J^T

several tens of thousands of Muslims.

oi_ ntits,

ethnic group,

but

some

guage and ^'p, f

.-Jf^ I

A|

sell

provincial capital,

who

come

a population of

Most belong to the Hul

look Chinese and speak the Chinese language;

are ethnic Uighur migrants,

who

speak a Turkic

lan-

to Chengdu from their native Xinjiang region to

kebabs or trade

in

sultanas (yellow raisins) and other local

products. The center of the turies the

Chengdu, has

city's

Muslim community was for cen-

few narrow streets around the Imperial City mosque,

a

sprawling, peaceful building with tiled roofs and leafy courtyards.

mosque on the same site for more than four like many of China's historic buildings it was demolished in 1998 in the name of modernization, along with all the surrounding streets. The demolition also claimed most of the Muslim There had been

a

hundred years, but

167

land of plenty

restaurants that had traded ers

in

the area.

Some were

simple noodle shops, oth-

more formal eateries that served special Muslim versions of many of most famous dishes. Naturally, they banished pork from their menus,

Sichuan's

substituting for

The

beef or lamb.

it

following dish

is

most commonly made with pork, but

I've

used beef

for the sake of offering a dish typical of Muslim adaptations of Sichuanese cui-

obviously has a stronger flavor and texture than the usual

sine. This version

pork

dish,

ahead.

but

The

think

I

it's

equally delicious.

strips of beef have a

If

you'd rather use pork, just go

wonderful chewy consistency and a mellow,

aromatic taste. They are particularly good as a nibble with wine, but can also

be eaten with other dishes as part of a cold starter course. They keep well

and can be made

in

Makes a generous

bowlful of beef pieces, enough for

large batches a day

or two

in

advance of a dinner

4-6

party.

as a nibble with drinks or

as part of a starter course

about a pound of lean beef (flank steak is good) peanut oil for deep-frying a 2-inch piece of fresh ginger,

teaspoon dark soy sauce teaspoon Shaoxing rice wine or medium-dry sherry i/4 teaspoon salt 2 1/2 teaspoons white sugar

unpeeled white and green

a few pieces of cassia bark or

I

1

FOR THE MARINADE

1

I

scallion,

parts

teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons Shaoxing rice wine or medium-dry sherry 1/2

1/3 of a cinnamon stick FOR THE GARNISH 1/2 teaspoon sesame oil

tablespoon chili oil tablespoon toasted sesame seeds

optional:

FOR THE SAUCE I

star anise

I

cup of everyday stock (see page 3 8) or chicken stock

I

1

I

Cut the beef 4 inches

against the grain into strips about a 1/4 to 1/2 inch

long,

removing any

gristly bits. Place in a

wide and

bowl. Slightly crush the

ginger and scallion with the side of a cleaver blade or a heavy object and

roughly chop them.

Mix 168

well,

Add

to the beef with the other marinade ingredients.

and leave for 20 minutes or

so.

APPETIZERS

2 Heat the peanut

oil

for deep-frying over a high flame to 325-375°F. Discard

the ginger and scallion from the marinade, and then mix 2 teaspoons of into the beef to help the strips separate.

Drop the

strips into the

and deep-fry for 1-2 minutes, stirring occasionally to separate, are cooked.

Remove and

drain.

Allow the

350-375°F, then return the beef to the

another couple of minutes

Remove and 3

until

hot

oil oil

they

until

temperature to return to

oil

wok and

continue to deep-fry for

the strips are crisp and a rich dark brown.

drain.

Bring the stock to the boil

in

a clean

wok. Add the beef

strips

and the

other sauce ingredients and simmer over a gentle heat for 10-15 minutes, stirring

from time to time,

tablespoon of peanut rated,

oil

until

and

the liquid has reduced by

stir

remove from the heat and

beef has cooled,

it

in.

stir in

When

half;

the liquid has

the sesame and

then add

I

but evapo-

all

chili oils.

When

the

the sesame seeds and serve at your leisure.

stir in

VARIATIONS Use pork

(butt or shoulder), as

chicken (thigh).

If

in

the original dish, or lamb (shoulder) or

you are using lamb, make sure to cut the

strips against

the grain.

Vegetarians can use strips of firm bean curd to

omit the marinade stage and deep-fry once

make

a similar dish. Just

only.

FIVE-SPICED "SMOKED" FISH wu xiang xun

3.

Smoked

fish

is

a traditional

tion rarely passes through a

yu

Chinese food, but

smoking

this

stage, despite

modern its

varia-

name.

It's

a

sensational dish, with crisp chunks of tender fish draped lavishly in

a rich, dense, aromatic sauce.

It is

usually

made with

small, fla-

vorful crucian carp, served three to the plate, but since they are

unavailable

in

the West,

larger fish. Grass carp

I've

written the recipe using chunks of a

would be the choice of the Sichuanese

cook, but sea bass or ocean perch works just as well.

Some cooks 169

land of plenty

use five-spice powder, but

I

spices (you can add to these

prefer the superior flavor of a couple of

whole

you wish).

if

Serves 4 as a starter or as part of a

6-8

light lur)ch,

as part of a Chinese starter

course

pounds sea bass or ocean

2

cup everyday stock (see page 3 8) or chicken stock 2 teaspoons Shaoxing rice wine or medium-dry sherry teaspoon dark soy sauce 1/2 teaspoon white sugar

3/4

perch fillets peanut oil for deep-frying

1

FOR THE MARINADE a 2-inch piece of fresh ginger, unpeeled scallion, white and green

I

1

I

teaspoon whole Sichuan pepper

parts

1/4

2 teaspoons

Shaoxing rice

wine or medium-dry sherry 1/2 teaspoon salt

a couple of bits of cassia bark

or

FOR THE SAUCE

of a

1/3

cinnamon

stick

teaspoon salt a couple of pinches of ground white pepper or 6-8 turns of a black pepper mill 1/2

2 scallions, white and green

parts 2

tablespoons peanut oil teaspoons finely chopped

2

teaspoons

3

star anise

FOR THE GARNISH teaspoon sesame

garlic

I

finely

oil

chopped

fresh ginger

1

Leaving the skin on, cut each

across the

fish.

scallion for the

Put the

fish

fish fillet into slices

I

1/2 inches

wide, cutting

pieces into a bowl. Slightly crush the ginger and

marinade with the side of a cleaver blade or a heavy object

and roughly chop them. Add to the

fish

with the other marinade ingredi-

ents. Leave for 15-20 minutes.

2 Finely parts.

170

slice

the 2 scallions for the sauce, separating the green and white

APPETIZERS

3

When

the

fish

ready, discard the ginger and scallion pieces

is

from the

marinade and pat the pieces dry with paper towels or a dry kitchen towel.

Heat the oil for deep-frying to 325-350°F. Add the fish pieces and deep-fry for 3-4 minutes until they are crisp and golden (you may wish to fry them in

more than one

4 Heat 3 tablespoons of add the grant.

Remove and

batch).

oil in

a clean

drain well.

wok

over a high flame. When

and the scallion whites and

garlic, ginger,

Then add the stock and the other sauce

it is

hot,

they are fra-

stir-fry until

ingredients, stir well, and

gently add the fish pieces to the liquid. Return to a boil, then turn the heat

down and simmer

gently, basting the fish

time. After 10-15 minutes,

when

and

stirring gently

from time to

the stock has almost completely evapo-

rated, turn off the heat and transfer the fish pieces to a serving plate with a

slotted spoon. Drizzle

them with the sesame

oil,

scatter with the scallion

greens, and then pour over the remains of the sauce from the wok. You can eat

it

immediately, but

usually served at

it's

room temperature.

VARIATION Vegetarians can use the

same seasonings and cooking method to prepare

chunks of crispy deep-fried bean curd. Just omit the marinade stage.

SWEET-AND-SOUR SPARE RIBS tang cu pai gu

This recipe starter that

of Chengdu.

is

I

not unique to Sichuan, but

it's

a tasty and popular

have enjoyed on many occasions

The

ribs

should be succulent and

in

the restaurants

tasty, glistening in a

dark, syrupy sauce.

Serves 4 as a starter, with or)e or two other dishes

171

land of plenty

peanut oil for deep frying teaspoon dark soy sauce 4 tablespoons white sugar tablespoon Chinkiang or black Chinese vinegar teaspoon sesame oil 2 tablespoons toasted sesame

a 2-inch piece of fresh ginger, unpeeled 4 scailions, white parts only

I

about a pound of meaty spare ribs, chopped into -inch

I

I

lengths

I

salt I

1

tablespoon Shaoxing rice wine or medium-dry sherry

seeds (optional)

crush the ginger and scallions with the side of a cleaver blade or a

Slightly

heavy object and roughly chop them. Bring a large pot of water to a

Add

the spare

about

cooked

—about

While the of

ribs,

salt,

and skim after a few seconds. Then add

5 minutes. Transfer the

ribs are

still

and ginger. Let

2 Heat plenty of

and fry

meat to

sit

is

for about 30 minutes.

the

oil

smoking hot. Add the spare

it is

and golden brown

—

this

and about

I

II

take 4 or 5 minutes.

will

scallions,

and

hot flame,

Add

the ribs

cup of the pork stock. Add the dark soy sauce to give the sauce

to a

boil,

and the sauce

is

of a

lazy,

stirring often, until the

syrupy consistency.

for a very short time, until the sauce heat. Stir in

teaspoon).When the

liq-

add the sugar and lower to a gentle flame.

4 Simmer for 10-15 minutes,

from the

wok to a

stir-fry until fragrant.

a rich caramel color, and season with salt (about 1/4

come

ribs

and drain.

add the remaining ginger and

Simmer

the meat

a bowl, reserving the stock.

but 2 tablespoons of oil from the wok. Return the

all

uid has

until

steaming hot, add a marinade of 1/4-1/2 teaspoon

for deep-frying until

oil

crisp

until

Remove from Drain

boil,

and scallions and simmer

tablespoon of Shaoxing rice wine, and two-thirds of the remaining

I

scallions

3

return to a

a quarter of the ginger

boil.

the sesame

Add is

water has evaporated

the vinegar and

stir in.

syrupy again, and remove

oil.

5 Allow to cool before serving, removing the pieces of ginger and scailion. Sprinkle with sesame seeds

172

if

desired.

APPETIZERS

RABBITWITH SICHUAN PEPPER hua

jiao tu ding

This wonderful dish will

It

The chunks

heart.

make your

lips

of rabbit are glazed

in

tingle

and

warm your

a lustrous sauce filled

with the fragrance of chiles and Sichuan pepper. Spice fans

adore

it.

Do remember when

the fried spices

—

just pluck

will

eating that you don't have to eat

out the pieces of rabbit meat with

your chopsticks.

T I

Serves 4 as a starter, with one or two other dishes

FOR THE SAUCE

pounds rabbit meat, on or off the bone (about 1/2 a

1/4

a generous handful of dried Sichuanese chiles 2 tablespoons whole Sichuan

rabbit)

peanut

oil

for deep-frying

pepper 3/4 cup everyday stock (see page 3 8) or chicken stock 1/2 teaspoon sugar teaspoon dark soy sauce

FOR THE MARINADE 3 scallions,

white parts only

a piece of fresh ginger,

1

unpeeled tablespoon Shaoxing rice wine or medium-dry sherry 1/2 teaspoon salt

I

I

salt

AND FINALLY I

1

Chop

the rabbit, on or off the bone, into

scallion

I

rabbit and leave

-inch chunks. Slightly crush the

in

Add them and

the other marinade ingredients to the

a cool place for 30 minutes or more. Snip the chiles

in

or into 1/2-inch sections, discarding the seeds.

2 Heat plenty of

oil

for deep-frying until beginning to smoke.

chunks and fry over a high flame for about 5 minutes, but not dried out.

3

oil

and ginger with the side of a cleaver blade or a heavy object and

roughly chop them.

half

teaspoon sesame

Heat

3

Remove and

tablespoons of

oil in

a

until

Add

the rabbit

golden brown

drain.

wok

over medium heat. Add the chiles and

173

land of plenty

Sichuan pepper and

stir-fry until

the

oil

over too high a flame or the spices

chunks and

down

the fragrant

stir Into

oil.

Add

Do

richly fragrant.

is

burn.

will

Add

not do

this

the cooked rabbit

the stock and bring to a

boil. Turn

the heat and add the sugar and soy sauce, which should give the

liq-

uid a rich caramel color. Season with salt to taste.

4 Simmer for about

15

Remove from the heat, room temperature.

minutes, stir in

until

the liquid has

the sesame

oil,

all

but evaporated.

and leave to cool. Serve

at

RABBIT WITH ROCK SUGAR bing tang tu ding

Iv

Rock or

^^^^

nese, for

^

known as "ice sugar" {bing tang) in obvious reasons. The large transparent crystals are

crystal sugar

by weight

in

is

Chisold

Sichuanese markets and must be smashed with a ham-

mer or other heavy implement before they are used in the kitchen. Rock sugar is valued for the purity of its sweetness and has several uses in Chinese medicine. It is also used in many Sichuanese dishes

Ft* iS&

^"^

that are prepared specifically for their medicinal or nutritional

T

value. The following dish

be enjoyed by anyone

is

who

a delicious luxury, and

I

suspect

it

will

has eaten sweet-and-sour spare ribs

with pleasure. The rabbit chunks are embraced by a sweet, trous, chestnut-red sauce and scattered with a

lus-

few white sesame seeds.

Serves 4 as a starter, with one or two other dishes

about a pound rabbit meat, on or off the bone (about 1/2

a rabbit)

peanut

oil

for deep-frying

FORTHEMARiNADE 3 scallions,

174

white parts only

a 2-inch piece of fresh ginger, unpeeled tablespoon Shaoxing rice wine or medium-dry sherry I

1/2

teaspoon

Salt

APPETIZERS

OTHER INGREDIENTS 1

12

1/3

|

cup rock sugar cup hot water

teaspoon sesame oH

2 teaspoons toasted white

sesame seeds

salt

1

Chop

the rabbit, on or off the bone, into

Add them and

roughly chop them. rabbit and leave

2 Heat plenty of

chunks and

fry

in

oil

the other marinade ingredients to the

a cool place for 30 minutes or

Remove and

on

it

this

a cutting

4 Put 4 tablespoons of

oil

into a

Stir constantly as

When

a rich

by wrapping

it

with a

kle with the

sesame

oil.

over the

a plastic bag and a

a rolling pin.

the sugar melts and changes color.

salt

stir

well.

Add

the deep-fried rabbit

to taste.

dish, drizzle

When

city of

is

heavy and syrupy.

with the remaining sauce and then sprin-

cold, scatter the

STEWED AROMATIC MEATS All

in

hammer or

gently for about 15 minutes, until the sauce

6 Turn out onto a serving

it

red-brown, quickly add the hot water, standing

back to avoid the steam, and

chunks and season with

golden brown

wok. Add the crushed rock sugar and warm

over a gentle heat. is

until

the rabbit

board or other hard surface not sus-

ceptible to damage, and then whacking

the liquid

Add

drain.

—you can do

kitchen towel, laying

Simmer

more.

for deep-frying until beginning to smoke.

3 Crush the rock sugar

5

-inch chunks. Slightly crush the

over a high flame for about 5 minutes,

but not dried out.

well

I

and ginger with the side of a cleaver blade or a heavy object and

scallion

sesame seeds over and serve.

{lu rou)

Chengdu there are

street stalls specializing

in

stewed, aromatic meats and poultry. Caramel-colored ducks and

jL^ l^yCI

bronzed chickens hang overhead; below them are trays of chicken wings,

pig's tails

and ears, poultry innards, and

delicious tidbits. All have been

seasoned with

salt, sugar,

cooked

until

wine, and spices, and then

all

tender left

kinds of other in

a rich broth

to cool.

They are 175

land of plenty

eaten at

room temperature, with perhaps

dash of sesame

The broth

oil,

or a dish of ground roasted

(/u shui) is

broth

—

it is

like

Beef and lamb tend to be cooked

way, but

Don't

it.

Most

skimmed

its

flavors.

cooking

feel obliged

liquid

salt, sugar,

regularly to keep

a separate broth

in

Firm bean curd {dou

fu

it

it

clean.

wine, and

(Western

again another time.)

from pork and poultry, gan) can also be stewed

should be thrown away after only one use.

to use exactly the spices suggested below

varied according to your

fla-

professional vendors have a vir-

to strain and freeze the broth and use

because of their stronger in this

in

also absorbs the

simply replenished with stock,

spices as needed, and boiled up and

cooks might

chiles.

on pork bones, but

usually based

vors of whatever meats are cooked tually everlasting

a splash of the cooking liquid and a

mood and

their availability.

may

try to include about ten different spices, which

—they can be

Most Sichuanese cooks also include

cardamom

{cao dou kou), a type of dried ginger {shan nai or sha jiang), Fructus amoni {sha ren tou), and

from

sometimes dried

large sacks in the

specifically sold for

the broth It

much

open markets, or

making

saltier

The

chiles.

lu shui.

spices can be bought individually

in little

Some

bags of mixed spices that are

Sichuanese recipes suggest making

than the recipe below.

should be remembered by those

who

live

within reach of any China-

town that many restaurants sell stewed meats for take-out. These already cooked meats are delicious and reasonably priced and make a convenient addition to a home-cooked Chinese meal. Many of my Sichuanese friends buy some tea-smoked duck or stewed chicken wings when they invite friends for dinner this takes the stress off the cook by reducing the number of dishes

—

that have to be prepared at the last minute.

bought

in

If

you are using cooked meats

Chinatown, you can give them a Sichuanese touch by serving them

with a dish of ground chiles.

AROMATIC BROTH lu

The

shui

following recipe makes enough broth to

or duck, but you can use

it

cook

a

whole chicken

to stew meats of your choice. Chicken

drumsticks and wings, duck wings, bean curd, and hard-boiled eggs (bashed

176

slightly

to crack

them

all

over and then stewed

in

their

APPETIZERS

shells) are

all

particularly good. Rabbit, lamb,

way. Meats are best prepared by blanching ing

and beef can also be cooked

them

water and

this rins-

under the tap before adding to the broth. This removes most of the bloody

juices

and keeps the broth clean.

ger, scallion, salt,

Some cooks

also marinate beef or

I

unpeeled white and green parts

peanut oil or corn oil 1/4 cup rock sugar 5 quarts everyday stock (see page 3 8) or chicken stock 3/4 cup salt 1/3 cup Shaoxing rice wine or medium-dry sherry optional: a double layer of cheesecloth to wrap the

tablespoons cassia bark

or

cinammon

stick bits

I

1

4 cao guo (see page 62)

(optional)

1

TO SERVE sesame oil ground Sichuanese chiles, paprika, or cayenne pepper to taste optional: ground roasted

spices

THE SPICES

Sichuan pepper (see page

2 tablespoons

whole Sichuan

74)

pepper

string.

1/2

1/2

1

2 tablespoons

all

in gin-

tablespoons licorice root (optional) 2 tablespoons star anise 3 tablespoons fennel seeds tablespoon whole cloves

5 scallions,

Place

lamb

and wine before blanching.

a 3-inch piece of fresh ginger,

1

first in boiling

salt

the spices onto the pieces of cheesecloth and tie securely with

(The spices can be used loose, but are then harder to remove from

the cooked meats.) Crush the ginger and scallions slightly with the side of a cleaver blade or a heavy object

2 Bring a pot of water to a

and cut each

boil. In a

rock sugar over a very low flame.

rock sugar

is

in

wok, heat the peanut Stir constantly as

oil

or

medium and continue

caramel brown. Quickly splash

—make sure you stand

in

about

I

back, as the

to

3 sections.

with 1/2 cup of

the sugar melts

very large pieces you may wish to crush them

turn the heat up to

kettle

scallion into 2

stir until

(if

first).

the liquid

is

the

Then

a rich

cup of the boiling water from the

wok

will release a lot of

heat and

steam. Stir well.

177

land of plenty

3 Put the stock, caramel

liquid,

and

the other broth ingredients, including

all

the rest of the rock sugar, into a very large saucepan and bring them to a boil.

hour

Give them a good

stir

and then simmer over low heat for at

least an

until flavorful.

4 Add the meats, poultry pieces, eggs, or bean curd and cook tender and aromatic. Add enough fresh stock to cover

if

they are

until

necessary.

5 To serve, thinly slice any large chunks of meat; cut poultry or rabbit into strips.

Serve hot or cold, with a drizzling of the cooking broth and some

sesame

oil,

and small

piles of

ground

chiles,

Sichuan pepper, and

salt.

MAN-AND-WIFE MEAT SLICES fu qi fei pian

A"Man-and-wife

meat

slices"

is

broth (page

1

79). This dish

famous appetizer

"lung

%^ /

I

it

slices,"

stewed

began as a street snack, but

invented

it

with

is

traditionally

It is

named

his wife in

based

fei

it

is

made with

now

after a

a

man

the 1930s and

pian literally

in

a delicious aromatic broth.

or marbled meat, as

in

means

a mixture of

It's

equally

good made sim-

the following recipe.

The meat

subtly spiced and tender, the sauce hot and zingy, and the celery and toasted

nuts offer an interesting crunch. Chinese celery, which has stems

than

its

Western counterpart, can sometimes be found

Serves 4 as a starter

178

is

and innards (including ox hearts, tongues, and stomachs),

ply with lean is

and the dish

dish that

the recipe for aromatic

on the streets of Chengdu. The name

lean beef all

in

Sichuanese restaurants.

Guo Chaohua, who

called

sold

in

meat

a popular cold

on the stewing method described above

in

more

slender

Chinese supermarkets.

APPETIZERS

about a pound of lean beef (flank steak), in one piece TO COOK THE BEEF

heads pinched

1

3-4 stalks of celery or an equivalent

oil

2 tablespoons rock sugar, crushed

quart everyday stock (see page 3 8) or chicken stock 1/2 tablespoons salt 2 scallions, white and green parts, cut into thirds teaspoon whole Sichuan pepper a few bits of cassia bark or 1/2 a I

1

I

1

teaspoon fennel seeds

4 whole cloves, their

Slightly

Chinese celery tablespoon dark soy sauce 1-2 tablespoons chili oil with chile flakes (see page 55) to taste

seeds peanuts, crushed coriander (cilantro) leaves to garnish

crush the ginger with the side of a cleaver blade or a heavy object.

Throw away

boil.

Add

the beef and blanch for 10-20 seconds.

the water and rinse the beef under the tap.

3 Heat the peanut

is

teaspoon ground roasted Sichuan pepper (see page 74) 2 teaspoons toasted sesame 1/2

powdery

2 Bring a pot of water to a

When

of thin

2 tablespoons roasted unsalted

stick

2 star anise

1

amount

1

1

cinnamon

and

TO SERVE

a 2-inch piece of fresh ginger,

unpeeled tablespoon peanut

off

discarded

oil

with half the rock sugar

in

a

wok

over a gentle heat.

the sugar has melted, raise the temperature and boil

a rich, caramel

brown. Quickly throw

the liquid

until

a small coffee-cupful of cold

in

water, standing well back to avoid the rush of steam, and stir briskly to

incorporate. Transfer the liquid to a saucepan.

4 Add the stock, the rest of the sugar, the spices, tied in a

salt,

double layer of cheesecloth

ginger and scallions, and

if

you wish. Bring the

vigorous boil and add the blanched beef. Return to a

mer 5

gently for about an hour and a

Remove the beef from pletely.

the cooking

Keep the cooking

half, until

the beef

liquid, cover,

boil, cover, is

all

the

liquid to a

and sim-

beautifully tender.

and set aside to cool com-

liquid.

179

land of plenty

6 To serve, remove the fibrous outer edge of the celery thinly. You

can chop up the leaves too

nese celery, just chop

they are

if

stalks

tasty. (If

into 2-inch lengths.) Lay the celery

it

slice

them

you are using Chi-

on

Thinly slice the cold beef, against the grain of the meat. Lay

it

top of the celery. Combine 4 tablespoons of the cold cooking soy sauce and pour over the meat. Drizzle with the

and

chili oil

a serving plate. attractively liquid

on

with the

and sprinkle with

the Sichuan pepper, sesame seeds, peanuts, and coriander (cilantro).

TEA-SMOKED DUCK zhang cha ya

Smoked duck it

is

is

z\

one of Sichuan's most lauded

scented tea and fragrant

wood

shavings. In

be associated with one particular days of republican China for

Because of rior, this

its

place

delicacies. At

its

best

and infused with the delicate aromas of jasmine-

juicy, rich,

Chengdu,

it

will

forever

was famous in the early teahouses and wine shops.

alley that

its lively

narrow, inconspicuous entrance and capacious inte-

was nicknamed "The Mousehole."

Guoliang set up a duck

stall

In

1

928, one Zhang

at the entrance to the

which soon became known for

Mousehole,

smoked duck.The rest in Chengdu called Mr. Zhang's Mousehole Duck {hao zi dong zhang ya zi) in Zhang Guoliang's honor, which specializes in smoked duck and other traditional Sichuanese dishes. The is

culinary history. There's

still

duck produced here, which can be eaten

Tea-smoked duck kitchen, as the recipe

not a dish that

is is

its

exquisite

a restaurant

in is

or taken out,

is

exceptionally fine.

normally attempted

in

the

home

somewhat complicated, involving a long marinade, airMost people simply buy it from

drying, smoking, steaming, and deep-frying.

specialized manufacturers

experience.

I

have found

who it

have the right equipment and often years of

hard to recreate

in

flavor I've enjoyed in the real Sichuanese duck, fire if

to exquisite effect. However,

you are so

sources, with

inclined.

some

it is

The following

tips

my

simple

which

possible to

make

recipe has been

from Yan-kit

is

the depth of

smoked over

a

wood

a pretty tasty imitation

worked out from

So's Classic Food of China

smoke a duck in a Western kitchen. The Sichuanese duck is traditionally smoked over 180

wok

local

on how to

a mixture of jasmine

APPETIZERS

tea, cypress

or pine twigs, and sawdust. Since these types of

jasmine tea,

flour,

sawdust, or twigs

wood

are a

little

more easily arranged mixture of and sugar. If you do manage to lay your hands on untreated of cypress, just go ahead and use them instead of the flour

hard to track down,

I've

suggested using a

and sugar. Don't oversmoke the bird

smoky in taste. Most Sichuanese cookbooks tea-smoked duck" {zhang cha ya

—

it

should be subtly, not overpoweringly,

name

give the

of this dish as

"camphor and

and suggest using camphor (zhang) leaves

zi)

and twigs as smoking materials. But according to China's leading authority on Sichuanese food, Professor Xiong

nese characters.

He

says the dish

Sizhi, this is

called

connection with camphor, but because kind of tea leaves from Zhangzhou,

in

it

based on a confusion over Chi-

is

zhang cha ya

was

originally

zi

not because of any

smoked over

Fujian province. The

a special

cooking method, he

was invented by a man called Huang Jinlin, one-time manager of the Dowager Empress Cixi's kitchens in Beijing, who brought the dish to Sichuan when he opened a restaurant in Chengdu. To make this dish you will need aluminum foil, a smoking rack that fits into your wok (see below), and a steamer that is big enough to accommodate says,

the whole duck

Serves

1

4-8

in

a

deep bowl.

as part of a cold lunch or a starter course

duck, weighing about 5 pounds

FOR THE MARINADE 2 tablespoons salt

whole Sichuan pepper 1/2 teaspoon ground black or white pepper 1/2 teaspoons saltpeter 6 tablespoons Shaoxing rice wine (or medium-dry sherry) and 4 tablespoons Sichuanese fermented rice 2 teaspoons

I

wine, or 8 tablespoons

Shaoxing rice wine (or

SMOKING MATERIALS cup all-purpose flour 3/4 cup white sugar 1/2 cup jasmine blossom tea 3/4

FOR THE STEAMING a 2

i

/2-inch piece of fresh

ginger, unpeeled

4 scallions, white parts only

FORTHE DEEP-FRYING plenty of peanut

oil

—at least

enough to half immerse the duck FINALLY teaspoon sesame oil I

medium-dry sherry) 181

land of plenty

1

Marinating: Mix the

salt,

Sichuan pepper, ground pepper, and saltpeter

mortar, mixing well and crushing the Sichuan pepper. xing rice wine and fermented rice wine

and out, with the

over, inside ture. Let

breast-down

sit

it

Afterward, place the duck boiling

water over

—

it

in

salt

in

and spices and then with the wine mix12 hours or overnight.

a colander and scald

improve the

this will

Combine the ShaoRub the duck all

a small bowl.

a cool place for

in

a

in

final

it

by pouring a pot of

texture of the skin. Wipe

the duck dry, inside and out, with a clean kitchen towel or paper towels

and hang

it in

a well-ventilated place to air-dry for 6 hours or

2 Smoking: Line a and sugar and

wok

lay

with two layers of aluminum

them

foil.

more.

Mix together the flour

over the base of the wok, scattering the tea leaves

all

over the top. Arrange some sort of rack to hold the duck a good couple of inches above the smoking materials

metal rack

laid

on top

wok over a very rily,

high

(I

—

bought both

I

use a small metal trivet with a round in

flame.When the tea

a

Chinese supermarket). Place the

leaves are beginning to

place the duck, breast-down, on the rack, cover the

wok

smoke mer-

with a

lid

and

leave for 30 minutes, turning the bird after 15 minutes. You can turn the heat

down is still

to

medium when the tea

leaves are smoldering, but

emerging. After 30 minutes the bird should be a

3 Steaming:

When

the smoking

bowl or deep dish

in

make sure the smoke light

golden yellow.

finished, lay the bird breast-up in a large

is

your steamer.

Slightly

crush the ginger and scallions

with the side of a cleaver blade or a heavy object and place them

in

the

bowl with the duck. A few pieces can also be put inside the duck. Bring the

water or

in

the steamer to a fast

so, until

it is

boil, cover,

and steam the duck for an hour

tender and cooked. You can test

the fattest part behind the

leg,

it

by inserting a skewer

in

but take care to cause minimal damage to

may rupture during the final deep-frying. When the duck is remove cooked, it gently from the bowl and leave it to cool. Gently tilt the duck and pour out as much of the juices as possible from the cavity, but make sure to keep the bird intact. (The juices left in the steaming bowl make a fantastic base for a noodle soup or stew.)

the skin, or

it

4 Deep-frying: Heat enough

Immerse it

182

is

anchored securely

in

a

a

in

oil

at least half the duck.

If

wok

or deep-fat fryer to generously

you are using

wok

a

wok, make absolutely sure

stand, for safety reasons.

When

the

oil

APPETIZERS

reaches a temperature of about 350°F, gently lower

in

the duck using a Chi-

nese wire-mesh spoon or a couple of perforated spoons. The temperature will

drop

at this

initially

if

the duck

is

cold

—

bring

quickly back to 325°F and fry

it

temperature for about 4 minutes. Then gently turn the duck and

fry

amount of time, until the skin is crisp and a rich, Remove it from the pan and set it aside to cool still warm, brush the skin very sparingly with the

the other side for the same

caramel brown

in

color.

down. While the duck sesame

oil

to enhance

is

its

gloss and fragrance.

5 Serving: To serve, you can just slice the duck as you please or cut inch by 3/4-inch sections

on the bone, Chinese

approximate duck shape on your serving this dish

is

sometimes accompanied by

more commonly eaten on

is

its

style,

platter.

lotus-leaf

it

into 2-

and reassemble

At

in

an

high-class banquets

buns (see page 124), but

own, alongside other cold

it

dishes.

VARIATION The same method can be used to smoke

quails

or geese, adjusting the

quantities and cooking times accordingly.

COLD CHICKEN WITH FRAGRANT RICE WINE xiang zao

In

this

dish,

steaming

is

ji

tiao

used to infuse chicken meat with the

sweet, mellow fragrance of fermented glutinous rice.

served cold, although you can eat

it

straight

It

is

usually

from the steamer.

Serves 4 as a starter with one or two other dishes

3/4

pound cooked chicken

meat 1/2

cup fermented glutinous wine (see page 60)

rice

a good pinch of ground white

pepper 1/2 teaspoon salt 2-3 teaspoons sesame

oil

183

land of plenty

1

Cut the chicken

into strips 1/2-1 inch

the strips neatly

in

a

bowl that

wide and about 2

1/2 inches long. Lay

your steamer (make sure you

will fit into

lay

the tidiest strips of chicken at the base of the bowl, as they are the ones that will be seen

when

the dish

is

turned onto a plate for serving). Mix

together the wine and seasonings and then pour them over the chicken.

2 Place the bowl

in

a

steamer and steam for 10 minutes over a high flame.

3 Allow the chicken to cool, and then turn tle

sesame

it

on to a

plate. Drizzle

with a

lit-

before serving.

oil

STIR-FRIED DISHES With

a

few exceptions,

stir-fried dishes are generally

intended to be eaten

hot, with rice, as part of a main meal. Many, however, taste delicious at

temperature and are eaten that way for more informal meals.

Home

room cooks

often serve up leftovers from the previous night, either reheated or simply

served cold, and cold bei,

stir-fried dishes

are often a major feature of leng dan

the casual, tapas-style eating enjoyed

summer evenings. One leng dan down was serving a number of stir-fried

sultry

in

the back streets of Chengdu on

bei restaurant

whose menu jotted room temperature, I

dishes cooled to

including green beans with chiles and ginger, lotus root cubes with chiles and

green

bell

peppers, water spinach, bitter melon with green peppers, pickled

string beans with

minced pork, "tiger-skin" peppers,

plants with green bell peppers.

beans

in

their pods, preserved

sweet corn, and egg-

salty

They were accompanied by

duck

eggs, dry

roasted peanuts, deep-fried crayfish, snails

bean curd

in chile

platters of soy-

in chili oil,

sauce, and

all

boiled and

kinds of cold

meats.

Recipes for this

stir-fried dishes like

these are given

book, because they are mostly eaten hot.

I

in

the vegetable section of

have indicated which of them

can be enjoyed equally well cold. As a general rule, any

stir-fry that

doesn't

involve animal fats or starch-thickened sauces can be cooled without spoiling.

The

following dish, which

is

one of my

favorites,

fried with spices (qiang), but invariably eaten at

184

is

unusual

in

that

room temperature or

it is stir-

chilled.

APPETIZERS

CUCUMBER SALAD

SPICY

qiang huang gua

This salad

is

wonderfully simple to prepare

keep the cooking brief

made hours

_-^^

^\

—and

ingredients deceive you into thinking this

The

>

cucumber

slippery

spice and sesame, and

J^\^

is

a dull dish

it

looks lovely, too, with

—

intriguing its

it

to

can be

the simplicity of

permeated with the

In

it

is

is

its

not.

rumor

of

scattering of

Sichuan you might find

it

served

banquet as part of a mixed hors d'oeuvre, perhaps with a selection of

meats and

cold

dumpling.

Serves

I

4-6

it

as part of a

as part of a Chinese

2 average-size

accompanied by several

peanuts, or

usually serve

meal or as a vegetable

cucumbers

I

into

remove the seeds and

3

2

pulp,

1/2-inch

side dish

whole Sichuan pepper teaspoons sesame oil

sections.

Quarter these lengthwise,

and then cut evenly into batons the

french-fried potatoes. Sprinkle with the

Then

salt,

mix

well,

much water

drain well and press gently to get rid of as

2 Heat a

cucumber pieces dry with paper towels or

wok

over a high heat

until

smoke

rises.

size of

and set aside for at

30 minutes, preferably 2 hours or more, to draw out some of the

Pat the

of

1/2-inch sections

Cut the cucumber

least

types

2 teaspoons

teaspoons salt 2 tablespoons peanut oil 8 long dried chiles or 16 small Sichuanese chiles snipped into

different

Chinese meal or a simple salady lunch.

3

1

let

is

red chiles and Sichuan pepper at a

has the advantage that

it

advance of the meal. Don't

in

—the only secret

juices.

as possible.

a clean kitchen towel.

Add

the peanut

oil

and swirl

around to cover the base of the wok. Turn the heat down to a medium flame and then add the chiles and Sichuan pepper. Stir these swiftly for a

few seconds

until

they smell deliciously spicy and the chiles are turning a

darker red. Take great care not to burn the spices.

185

land of plenty

3

Add

the cucumber pieces and

them

in

the flavored

oil.

stir

and toss for about 10 seconds to coat

Remove from

the heat, add the sesame

oil,

and

stir

thoroughly before tipping the cucumber onto a serving dish. The cucumber should not be cooked through, just swiftly heated so that

it

absorbs the

fla-

vor of the spices. Allow to cool before serving.

OTHER DELICIOUS TIDBITS

SOYBEANS

THEIR PODS

IN

mao dou

^

On

•^P^

summer

sticky

evenings

in

Chengdu, my friends and

Small tables and chairs

would have been

the river and the sidewalk nearby, as a

open

their trade into the

air.

set up at dusk

row

of

Candles burned

little

in

smoked

pig's liver,

empty beer

on the

beans served

in

shell.

frozen find

in

of

fresh, they

4-6

shells.

If

salty

duck eggs cut

can't find fresh soybeans,

(the Japanese until

call

you can buy them

them edamame).

If

you do

they are really tender.

as a starter, with dr'mks

Put the frozen beans the water back to a

in

boil,

teaspoon whole Sichuan pepper a walnut-size piece of unpeeled fresh ginger, crushed I

I

186

you

must be boiled

about pound frozen, precooked soybeans their pods 1/2 teaspoon salt

I

bottles,

platefuls of

my favorite snacks, however, was the fresh soywe would nibble idly, squeezing the tender, juicy

some Asian supermarkets

them

Serves

One

their pods. These

beans from their rough

little

preserved eggs with hot green peppers, stir-fried sweet

corn kernels, glossy peanuts sprinkled with Sichuan pepper, and into sections

on the edge of

restaurants spilled

and the occasional lantern hung from the trees. We would order exquisite

used to

I

gather on the banks of the Brocade River for drinks and a lazy supper.

in

a pan

and cover generously with boiling water. Bring

add the seasonings, and then simmer for 5-6 minutes.

APPETIZERS

2 Drain and then refresh

3 Serve at

in

cold running water.

room temperature.

Eat

them with your

CORAL-LIKE

J^Y^\

^^^

lotus,

which bulges into great

Inside,

it is

out

is

its

I

the

method

of preparing the rhizome brings

beauty, translucent whiteness, and wonderfully crisp tex-

qualities that explain the

4-6

bulbs of crystalline white flesh.

fat

threaded with hollow tubes, so a cross section reveals

a beautiful pattern. This

about

lian

makes use of the underground segmented stem of the

recipe

^

Serwes

shells.

The lotus, or water lily, is a traditional symbol of spiritual enlightenment for Buddhists because its roots lie in mud and filth but its stems reach skywards to blossom in pure, exquisite beauty. The plant also has many culinary uses. Its seeds are made into sweetmeats and its leaves are used in various dishes. The following

i rt

—

the

SNOW LOTUS

shan hu xue

ture

fingers, discarding

name

of the dish.

as a starter

pound

lotus root (this

amount

typically

packaged for sale in Chinese markets) a -inch piece of unpeeled I

3/4

cup white sugar

salt

4 teaspoons clear rice vinegar

optional garnish: 1/2 a red bell

pepper

fresh ginger, slightly

crushed or roughly sliced

I

Scrape the lotus root clean with a sharp knife and I

slice

it

thinly (at

about

1/2-inch intervals). Rinse the slices and place immediately into a bowlful

of lightly salted water with the crushed ginger to prevent discoloration.

Leave for an hour or two.

187

land of plenty

2 Drain the lotus Return to a rinse

them

slices

in

and plunge them into a big panful of boiling water.

and after another 5 or 10 seconds remove the

boil,

slices

and

cold water until cool. Drain well and set aside.

3 Dissolve the sugar and a generous pinch of salt

in

about

I

cup of water

over a gentle heat. Allow to cool.

4 Add the vinegar, and then pour

5

If

this

sweet-and-sour sauce over the lotus

Leave to soak for at least an hour, preferably several.

slices.

using the red bell pepper garnish, slice the pepper thinly, blanch the slices

briefly,

slices

and refresh

in

cold water. Arrange on a plate with the drained lotus

to serve.

THREE WAYS WITH PEANUTS In

the West, peanuts

roasted and tossed

in

almost invariably eaten simply dry-roasted or

are salt

—the

only exception

I

can think of

peanuts that are eaten with raisins as a healthy snack. But

New World

in

China,

is

the raw

where

this

crop has been an important source of food for about four cen-

number of different ways. Dry-roasted peanuts Gong Bao (Kung Pao) chicken and all its variations. They are also the basis of many snacks, like the starch-encrusted peanuts that have found their way into Western cocktail parties and the "strange-flavor" peanuts featured below. As most Sichuanese restaurants and homes lack ovens, the nuts are usually salt-roasted in a wok. The peanuts are mixed with large quantities of salt enough almost to cover them and stirred over a gentle heat. The salt acts as a conductor and guarantees an turies, they are treated in a

are a

vital

ingredient

in

the famous

—

even roasting.

It

is

later sifted

—

away from the peanuts and set aside for the

next batch of roasting. The peanut skins are rubbed away with the fingertips

and gently blown out of a nearby door or window.

The peanuts

188

following recipes will in

Sichuanese cooking.

show you something

of the diverse uses of

APPETIZERS

BOILED AROMATIC PEANUTS hua sheng

lu

Where

peanuts are eaten on their

deep-fried, which gives

li

^^

tive gloss.

y^-^^

boiling

them

own

as a nibble, they are often

a delicious fragrance

and an attrac-

But the method Westerners find most surprising

them

swollen and delicately flavored, moist and crunchy, not crisp as

w

^^

they are

when

fried

or roasted. They are usually served with a

selection of cold dishes, or just as a nibble with drinks.

they would also

The

is

an aromatic broth, which makes the peanuts

in

work

rather well as a crunchy element

in

I

suspect

a salad or coleslaw.

spices can be varied according to taste and availability.

Serwe as a nibble or a side

disli

about pint water 8 ounces raw peanuts, I

1

in

their

2

star anise

whole

cloves,

powdery

tips

nipped out and discarded teaspoon fennel seeds 1-2 slices dried ginger

husks, or just their pink skins

1/2

2 teaspoons salt

teaspoon whole Sichuan pepper a few bits of cassia bark (about teaspoon) or a

(optional)

I

I

cao guo (see page 62) (optional)

I

cinnamon

stick

Bring the water to a boil. ter

wrapped

to a

boil.

in

Add

the peanuts,

salt,

a double layer of of cheesecloth

Then turn the heat down,

cover, and

if

and

all

the spices (the

simmer

for

40 minutes. When

they are cooked, drain the peanuts and leave them to cool and dry out a tle,

lat-

you have one) and return

lit-

discarding the spices.

189

land of plenty

STRANGE-FLAVOR PEANUTS guai wei hua ren

V^^

Like strange-flavor chicken, this concoction

1-^^

combination of several different

X y^,

for

flavors, although the

weird

its

two

dishes

bear no actual resemblance. The crisp peanuts are encrusted delicious fudgy paste that

i

is

unexpectedly spiced with

chili

in

a

powder

banquet, but are also sold on the streets with other snack foods.

The >..i^

4^

named

and Sichuan pepper. They are eaten as part of a cold course at a

%

>li

is

'*'

recipe

is

a sort of Sichuanese version of the caramelized

peanuts occasionally encountered on city streets you'd

something even "stranger," you could add

like

Europe.

in

a small

If

amount

of very finely minced ginger, garlic, and scallion along with the

other flavorings. And those

who

don't fancy the idea of chile-hot sweetmeats

could omit the spices and use a few toasted sesame seeds instead. Deep-fried

or toasted walnuts or cashews can also be prepared

in this

manner.

Serve as a nibble or a side dish

teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon chili powder 1/2 teaspoon ground roasted Sichuan pepper (see page

cup white sugar teaspoon clear rice vinegar 8 ounces roasted unsalted peanuts, skins rubbed off and discarded 3/4

1/2

I

74)

1

Combine the

salt, chili

2 Put the sugar and

I

/3

powder, and Sichuan pepper

cup of water into a

wok and

in

a small dish.

heat gently, stirring to dis-

solve the sugar. When the sugar has disappeared, turn up the heat and boil almost

to the hardball stage surface are

When

known

the syrup

—about 250°F

(the syrupy bubbles that keep rising to the

as "fish-eye bubbles"

is

—you

will

be able to see exactly why!).

suitably hot, turn off the heat, allow to cool

and add the spices and the vinegar Stir well to combine, and Stir vigorously

and

to coat the nuts

solidifies, taking

3 Set aside to cool. 190

in

syrup.

Keep mixing

lastly

down

a

little,

add the peanuts.

as the syrup cools

care to keep the nuts from sticking together

in

down

large blobs.

APPETIZERS

DEEP-FRIED CRISPY PEANUTS you su hua ren

'**fil

'

^^^^ enjoyed this nibble so

many

times: with drinks

on the Chengdu

<»-M

riverside

•ffL^

restaurants, even with a hasty breakfast of rice porridge and pickled

iMr|^

vegetables on

on balmy summer's evenings,

my way

in

homes and

to classes at the Sichuan cooking school. The

peanuts are dark red and glossy, crisp and fragrant. They should be

kJU

.A\L

served on a small plate, topped with pepper, which are mixed

yf

as a side dish

^

in

salt

and ground roasted Sichuan

with chopsticks at the table.

Do

resist

temptation to be impatient and deep-fry at too high a temperature the nuts can easily be burned and develop a bitter taste. And

'

the

ber that fried peanuts keep cooking so spread them out quickly to

let

when

remem-

they are taken off the heat,

them cool down.You could

also scatter Sichuan

pepper on precooked and salted peanuts for an exciting change of

taste.

Serve as a nibble or a side dish

to serve

8 ounces red peanuts in their

teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon ground roasted Sichuan pepper (see page 74) 1/2

skins oil

1

for deep-frying

over a gentle flame to 200-250°F and add the peanuts as

Heat the

oil

starts to

warm

up. Fry the nuts for

taking great care not to let the

oil

about 20 minutes,

overheat.

When

and

they are crisp and

fra-

remove them with a slotted spoon or strainer, out on paper towels to cool down completely.

grant,

2 To serve,

pile

it

stirring often

drain well, and spread

the nuts onto a small plate and top with about 1/2 teaspoon

of salt and 1/2 teaspoon of ground roasted Sichuan pepper to taste. Let

your guests mix

in

the seasonings at the table.

NOTE Some cooks ing

water

—

start by blanching the peanuts for a couple of minutes

this

is

supposed to improve the texture, but

I

in boil-

don't find the

dif-

ference great enough to merit the extra effort. 191

meat dishes WHEN SICHUANESE PEOPLE just

mean

butchers' fried,

pork. Pork

is

nothing else.

stalls sell

can be

It

so ubiquitous that most local

life,

stir-fried, braised,

stewed, roasted, boiled, salted, or smoked.

tossed

in

wok

a

with plenty of vegetables, or

cate lard can add magic to

highly prized for

one of

juiciness. In

its

his

if

pork

is

tenderness,

into stocks.

dishes;

ordinary,

its

it

is

its fat

poems, "Eating Pork"

(shi

who

its

own,

sweet, deli-

Its

can be cooked to

by no means inferior, and

sweet, fresh taste, and

Dynasty poet Su Dongpo ridiculed those

steamed, deep-

can be cooked on

It

made

meat or vegetable

slow, tender perfection. For it is

SAY "MEAT" THEY USUALLY

the meat of daily

zhu

looked

rou),

its

lip-smacking

the great Sung

down on

this

most

humble of meats: The good pork of Huangzhou, It's

as cheap as

The

rich

dirt,

won't eat

it,

The poor don't know how

to

cook

With a slow flame, and just a

When

it's

done

it's

little

it,

water,

scrumptious.

Eat a bowlful every day

And

you'll feel as if you

haven't a care

in

the world.

Archaeological evidence from northern China suggests that the Chinese

were rearing

pigs

around the

fifth

or sixth millennium before Christ; by the

become one

third century B.C., pigs had

were

also used in sacrifices. Written sources

ways of cooking pork, including into thick

soupy stews

of meat

consumption

China, and

in

in

it's

soft tenderloin

Chinese

source of meat

and steaming, and making

the

meat you're

only

likely

pig,

from the ears to the

oxen appear to have been

trotters,

—they were

important

a similarly

also used in ritual sacrifices. According to the Chi-

nese Classic of Food {ztiong guo shi

published

jing),

many references to beef-eating Rites (/;]/). With the development of

are

in

in

Shanghai

in

1999, there

Book of however, the ox came to be

ancient texts, including the

agriculture,

seen primarily as a farm animal, a tool to help plough the

fields

and carry

heavy loads, and many imperial governments passed decrees banning

in

From the Han Dynasty onward, beef was

texts discussing food, and

Some

like

ued to regard beef as an important foodstuff; elsewhere,

meat of working beasts that died

These days beef in

is still

far less

rarely

its

mentioned

seldom won the praise of poets or gourmets.

it

of the herding peoples on the fringes of China,

limited to the

to

meat to the innards and the bones.

antiquity,

slaughter for food.

it

Sichuanese people's homes. The Sichuanese

have a use for almost every part of the

from the

from that period refer to various

roasting, boiling,

Nowadays, pork accounts for nearly 90 percent

{geng).

encounter on the dinner table

In

of the main kinds of livestock and

common

the Tibetans, continits

consumption was

off in the cold

winter months.

than pork and has to be searched for

Sichuanese markets. Sichuan does, however, have a handful of famous and

most

delicious beef dishes, which are represented

Lamb cooking

is

in

on Sichuanese menus.

a rarity

It's

in

You do, however, occasionally

find

communities, where

it

stands

in

the thirteenth century

lamb

in

is

more

keenly

felt.

the cooking of Sichuan's Muslim

for pork.

This chapter includes a selection of Sichuan's

meat

chapter

often associated with

the northern provinces, where the culinary legacy of China's con-

quest by lamb-eating Mongols

cious

in this

more

most famous and most

deli-

dishes.

I

193

land of plenty

TWICE-COOKED PORK hui guo rou

V-—^

which literally means "back-in-the-pot meat," is the most famous and profoundly loved of all the dishes of Sichuan.

Hui guo

'—J

rou,

This quirky combination of intensely flavored, fragrant pork and fresh green vegetables

^

people

P^

living

is

a source of great nostalgia for Sichuanese

abroad, and

often seems to be tied up with elderly

it

One Chengdu

people's childhood memories.

me

Mr. Liu, told

that

in

from free-range, naturally fed

know immediately

roast duck vendor,

the preindustrial days, pigs, a

when pork came

whole neighborhood would

someone was eating hui guo smell. According to one of my written sources, the if

rou,

so captivating was

dish

was eaten with

regularity at meetings of Sichuan's notorious secret societies

istic

communists wiped them out. ge rou)

in

some in

a

is

still

ritual-

—before the

nicknamed "secret society meat" {pao

parts of western Sichuan.

Hui guo rou derives then fried

It

its

name from the

its

wok, with plenty of

delicious. Sichuanese

cooks

fact that the

pork

traditionally use a cut of

first boiled,

is

hot, beany flavorings, until

sizzlingly

is

it

pork thigh that

is

split

The cooking

evenly between fat and lean, with a layer of skin over the top.

method makes it extraordinarily tasty, and if you eat it with plain steamed rice, it makes a wonderful meal. The old Chengdu word for the curved shape of the pork pieces in the final dish is deng zhan wo x/ng, "lamp-dish slices," because they look like the tiny dishes that were filled with oil and used as lamps

in

pre-revolutionary China.

Sichuanese cooks traditionally use a vegetable known as green garlic or

Chinese leeks {suan miao) tute.

in this dish.

Baby leeks are a very acceptable substi-

Ordinary leeks can be substituted

if

they are green and

they are less tender they must be prefried (just toss them high flame, with a ness,"

little

as the

baby leeks

hard to

come

by,

is

oil,

a

in

so

Please riote that the the main wok-frying

I've in

wok

over a

wok

the recipe). The cut of pork favored

suggested using pork

Chinese as well as

porl<. is (it

in

but since

for less than a minute to "break their raw-

and set them aside. The fried leeks can be added to the

same time

character and available

194

peanut

leafy,

Italian

belly,

which

is

at the

Sichuan

of a similar

and Hispanic markets.

best cool<.ed at least a couple of hours

can be cooked the day before).

in

in

advance of

MEAT DISHES

Serves 2 as a main dish served with plain

4

rice,

wo

v^ith

or three other dishes as

part of a Chinese meal

3/4

pound

pork

teaspoons Sichuanese sweet wheaten paste or sweet bean paste 2 teaspoons fermented black beans teaspoon dark soy sauce teaspoon white sugar

fresh, boneless

belly,

with skin

still

attached 6 baby leeks or 6 tender, leafy leeks 2 tablespoons peanut

oil

or

I

lard I

1/2

1/2

I

I

tablespoons

chili

bean

salt

paste

1

Bring a large pot of water to a boil.

then simmer at a gentler heat

Add

the pork, return to a

cooked

until just

—

minutes, depending on the thickness of the pork.

this

boil,

and

should take 20-25

Remove

the pork from

the water and allow to cool (don't forget that you can reserve the cooking

water and add

it

to the stockpot). Place the meat

couple of hours or more to firm up the flesh slice

2

it

When

thinly

without the

the meat

is

fat

the refrigerator for a

in

makes

this

it

possible to

and lean parts separating.

completely cold,

would be about 2 inches by

—

I

slice

it

thinly. (In

Sichuan, each piece

inch and half fat and half lean meat, with a

strip of skin at the top.)

3

Chop ear"

the leeks diagonally at a steep angle Into thin,

I

l/2-inch-long "horse

slices.

4 Season the wok, then add another 2 tablespoons of

medium-hot

melted out and they are toasty and side of the

wok and

ated. Stir-fry

oil

or

lard

over a

flame, add the pork pieces, and stir-fry until their fat has

it

for

tip

the

chili

slightly

curved. Push the pork to one

bean paste into the space you have cre-

20-30 seconds

until

sweet bean paste and black beans and

they too smell delicious. Mix everything

soy sauce and sugar, seasoning with a

the

oil

is

stir-fry for in

the

little salt

if

richly red,

then add the

another few seconds

wok

until

together and add the

necessary.

195

land of plenty

5

Finally,

add the leeks and

stir

and toss

they are just cooked. Turn onto

until

a serving dish and eat immediately.

VARIATIONS The core of

legendary dish

this

but there are

fried,

is

the fat-lean pork,

infinite variations.

Some cooks

first

boiled and then

use red or green

bell

peppers instead of leeks; others add deliciously crunchy pieces of deepcooking to make what's called

fried flatbread {guo kuei) in the final stages of

guo kuei hui guo rou (deep-fried pita bread can be used instead). Long, green

Chinese scallions can also be used instead of

leeks.

FISH-FRAGRANT PORK SLIVERS yu xiang rou

The

/ft

J^^ ,^ >^l^

so-called fish-fragrant flavor

culinary creations, and

"•

AZt

^J^

one of Sichuan's most famous

is

epitomizes the Sichuanese love for auda-

it

cious combinations of flavors.

It is

salty,

°''

in

based on pickled chiles cleaver, although

instead,

which

chiles,

which also

is

some versions use Sichuan made with pickled fava beans

of fish to those

in

who

the same

Sichuan

connected with the

taste.

sometimes

explanation for the

fact that

actually

whole crucian

later

adopted by professional

Fish-fragrant dishes have been

196

title.

carp,

added to vats of

Everyone agrees that the fish-fragrant

and was only

bean paste

as well as chiles. origi-

instantly recalled the taste

Some food

ate them, hence the name.

—another

chili

which would explain why other

way would have

vors conjure up the actual taste of tiny crucian carp

cious, are

cooking

thought to have

is

famous chef Xiao Jianming of the Piaoxiang Restaurant

in

stain the

The most classic fish-fragrant dishes are chopped to a puree with the blade of a

traditional Sichuanese fish cooking,

ingredients prepared

eaten

The

^ brilliant orange-red.

This delicious combination of flavors

nated

sweet, sour, and spicy and

infused with the heady tastes of garlic, ginger, and scallions.

hot taste comes from pickled

P^i

si

in

experts,

{ji yu),

the fla-

which are widely

The term may

also be

which are particularly

pickling chiles to

style

like

Chengdu, say the

deli-

improve their

grew out of home cooking

chefs.

one of Sichuan's most successful culinary

MEAT DISHES

exports, but the strangeness of the term has led to a great variety of transla-

on English-language menus: "mock-fish," "sea-spice"

tions

inland Sichuan)

mean

literally

"fish"

Fish-fragrant

and "fragrant," which

pork

slivers

is

is

why

I

prefer

the most famous of

all

misnomer

in

my

in this dish,

bamboo shoots or

but

I've

translation.

Sichuan's "fish-fragrant"

dishes. Sichuanese chefs tend to use fine strips of lettuce

crunchy element available

great

(a

and "fish-flavored" among them. The two Chinese characters

stem {wo sun) as

written the recipe using the

celery. This dish should

more

a

easily

be cooked very quickly, to

preserve the tenderness of the pork.

Serves 2 as a main course with one vegetable

ear

mushrooms

2/3

I

I

I

cup fresh or canned bamboo

I

peanut

I

teaspoons

chopped

finely

garlic

2 teaspoons finely

chopped

fresh ginger

I

2 scallions, green parts only,

very thinly sliced Cover the cloud ear mushrooms

2 Cut the pork into thin

in

very hot water and soak for 30 minutes.

slices (ideally

cut these into long, fine slivers. Place

and

stir in

1/2

I

paste

ents,

1

teaspoons white sugar 1/2 teaspoons Chinkiang or black Chinese vinegar 3/4 teaspoon light soy sauce 1/2 teaspoon salt 3/4 teaspoon potato flour or 1/8 teaspoons cornstarch 3 tablespoons chicken stock or water

oil

2 tablespoons pickled chili

1

12 tablespoons cornstarch tablespoon cold water teaspoon Shaoxing rice wine or medium-dry sherry

FOR THE SAUCE

salt

1/2

teaspoon salt teaspoon light soy sauce tablespoon potato flour or I

little fat

shoots or 2 celery stalks

1

4 with three other dishes

1/4

ounces boneless pork loin (the meat from about 2 pork chops), preferably with a

rice,

FOR THE MARINADE

a small handful of dried cloud 10

and

disli

about in

1/8 of an inch thick),

a bowl,

and then

add the marinade ingredi-

one direction to combine. 197

land of plenty

bamboo shoots

3 Blanch the Rinse

in

in

water for a minute or two.

boiling salted

cold water, then slice thinly and cut the slices into very fine strips

to match the pork. kle with a

(If

you are using

few pinches of

salt

and

celery, cut

them

let

out some of their water content.) Thinly discarding any knobbly

bits.

4 Season the wok, then add a

cup of cool

1

into thin strips. Sprin-

5 minutes or so to drain

the cloud ear mushrooms,

slice

Combine the sauce 1/4

them

for

sit

ingredients

to the

oil

in

wok

a small bowl.

and reheat over

a high flame.

5

When soon the

the

oil is

beginning to smoke, add the pork and stir-fry briskly. As

as the strips have separated, push

wok toward

the other side, and

have created. Stir-fry very briefly

add the

garlic

tip

until

them to one the

the

chili

oil is

and ginger. Tip

in

tip

paste into the space you

and ginger and mix everything together,

garlic

wok,

red and fragrant, and then

to normal. Stir-fry for another 30 seconds or so

aromas of

side of the

tilting

until

the

wok

back

you can smell the

bamboo shoots and mushrooms and

the

stir-fry briefly, until just hot.

6

Stir

the sauce

rate,

throw

in

bowl, and then add to the wok. Stir quickly to incorpo-

in its

the scallions, toss

briefly,

and turn onto a serving

dish.

PORK IN LYCHEE SAUCE WITH CRISPY RICE guo ba rou pian

j^

This dish

R|

sauce

is

is

quite a party piece.

As the guests

poured over the

sauce

is

ing

the dish

der" {ping

di yi

a delightful

198

steaming hot bowl of soupy

taken to the table along with a deep platter piled with

pieces of crispy rice.

is

A

known sheng

in

sit

back

their seats, the

in

rice to explosive effect

some

lei). It's

— not

for noth-

places as "a sudden clap of thun-

not just dramatic, however, but also

mixture of tastes and textures. The pieces of rice

crust soak up the sauce

in

you

not a lychee to be seen

will notice,

there

is

a nice, half-juicy, half-crunchy way.

—the name

As

just

MEAT DISHES

refers to a type of sauce

sweet-and-sour sweet, rather

like

known

in

Sichuan as "lychee

the

fruit.

The

Sprinkled with salt and spices, this guo ba

can be bought

in

packages

like

element of surprise and mild bell

pepper for the

chiles

if

little

is

a sort of

is

is

a favorite children's snack

potato chips. Children love

flavors.

It

more than the

made from the crusty, the pan when rice is cooked over a

crispy rice {guo ba)

toasted layer that sticks to the bottom of fire.

flavor."

which the sour notes stand out a

in

this dish,

and

with

its

(You could easily substitute slivers of red

you want to eradicate every hint of hotness.)

Serves 4 with three other dishes 1/4

pound boneless pork

loin

(the nneat from a pork

peanut

chop)

sliced,

FOR THE MARINADE teaspoon Shaoxing rice wine or medium-dry sherry teaspoon light soy sauce 2 generous pinches of salt 1

FOR THE RICE CRUST

OTHER INGREDIENTS 4 dried Chinese mushrooms 2/3 cup bamboo shoots, fresh or canned 2 scallions, white parts only 2 Sichuanese pickled chiles or 6 tiny Thai pickled chiles 5-6 leaves of a leafy green vegetable such as baby bok choy or napa cabbage Soak the dried mushrooms

in

of fresh ginger,

peeled and thinly sliced 2 cups chicken stock

SEASONINGS 2 tablespoons sugar

teaspoons light soy sauce salt to taste (about /4 teaspoon) 2 1/2 tablespoons potato flour mixed with 4 teaspoons cold water, or 3 3/4 tablespoons cornstarch mixed with 6 teaspoons 1

cups cooked, white, long grain rice (about cup raw) I

1

for deep-frying

and an equivalent

amount

I

3

oil

2 large garlic cloves, thinly

1/2

I

cold water 2 1/2 tablespoons Chinkiang

I

or black Chinese vinegar teaspoon sesame oil

very hot water for 30 minutes.

2 Preheat the oven to BOCF.

199

land of plenty

3

Make the sheet until

a layer about 1/2 inch thick. Bake

in it is

crisp but

to cool. When

is

it

step can be done

4

5

Slice

the pork

ents,

and mix

If

spread the cooked rice onto a

rice crust:

white.

still

greased baking

the oven for 30-40 minutes,

in

Remove from

lightly

the baking sheet and set aside

cold, break the rice crust into quite large chunks. (This

advance.)

in

Put the slices into a bowl, add the marinade ingredi-

thinly.

well.

using canned

bamboo

rinse in cold water,

shoots, blanch

and then

them

at a steep angle, into slices

I

1/2

in

boiling water,

the scallions and chiles

their soaking

water to the stock-

pot. Tear the green leaves into pieces the same size as the meat

6 Start heating some

oil

thinly,

inches long ("horse ears"). Slice the

mushrooms and add

reconstituted dried

for 2 minutes

slice thinly. Slice

for deep-frying

in

a pan

on

a

slices.

back burner as you

prepare the sauce.

7 As the deep-frying of

oil

pork and lic,

oil

stir-fry until

ginger, scallions,

up,

the fragrant

oil

it

season the wok, then add 3 tablespoons

When

it

whitens and the

and chiles and

fragrant. Slide in the in

warms

and heat over a high flame.

beginning to smoke, add the

is

slices separate.

mushrooms, bamboo shoots, and

for a few

Then add the

30-60 seconds

stir-fry for

moments before pouring

leafy

in all

until

gar-

they are

greens and toss

the stock.

8 Mix the soupy sauce well, add the sugar and soy sauce, and season with to taste.

Add

the potato flour or cornstarch mixture and

thickens. Finally,

remove from the

and pour into a deep bowl. Cover with a plate to keep

9

Lastly,

stir as

heat, stir in the vinegar and

deep-fry the rice crust: adjust the

oil

it

still

pale

in

color.

Remove with

the sauce

sesame

oil,

piping hot.

temperature to about 375°F,

add the rice crust pieces, and deep-fry for about 2 minutes, crisp but

salt

until

a slotted spoon, drain,

they are

and transfer

immediately to a deep serving dish. Take the bowl containing the sauce and the rice crust to the table,

tell

the sauce over the rice crust.

200

your guests to

sit

well back, and then

pour

MEAT DISHES

VARIATIONS For a grander

some

dish,

restaurants use squid instead of pork; chicken

is

also a fine substitute, and vegetarians will enjoy using a selection of fresh

mushrooms The

instead of any kind of meat.

garlic, ginger,

and scallions are essential

vegetable ingredients at

will

—

bamboo

flavorings, but

just try to have an attractive variety of col-

brown mushrooms, green cabsome cooks know use tomatoes and soaked cloud ear mushrooms.

ors. I've used yellow

shoots, dark

bage, and pickled chiles for a splash of scarlet slices of large

you can vary the

PORK STEAMED

—

I

LOTUS LEAVES

IN

he ye zheng rou

^^

Mr.

Li

leaned toward

me

in

enjoying a rest from our Q\

y^iSirir

tup

where we were Incense smoke drifted

the Taoist temple

Gong

lesson.

from the feet of two looming gods. Outside, the bamboo and

damp autumn

Chinese parasol trees hung gently

in

whispered

"You won't

a conspiratorial tone:

in

At*

the

^»

restaurants.

***^

am about

v-t^

this recipe for

*^4

the perfectly balanced gestures of a Qi dress the

Never the meat

as

He

tender and beautiful as the meat

to describe." His eyes widened as he talked

little

air.

find this dish in

me

I

through

steamed Sichuanese pork, and mimed for me, with parcels and

Lotus plants are grown widely

in

wrap them up Sichuan.

As you

Gong in

master,

how

to

the lotus leaves.

drive through the lush

farmland to the south of Chengdu, their wide, round leaves extend over many

ponds and reservoirs. Virtually every part of the lotus plant Sichuanese cooking. The seeds,

nese name sounds

like

ing for glutinous rice

lian z/, a

symbol of

"successive sons," are

made

fertility

is

used

in

because their Chi-

into a sweet, sugary stuff-

dumplings or simmered with rice for a health-giving

porridge. The underwater rhizome

is

used as a vegetable or a sweetmeat, and

the leaves are used to wrap steamed foods, to which they impart their subtle,

herby fragrance.

The It's

following recipe

not at

all

difficult

is

a hearty

country

dish,

to make, and your guests

and absolutely scrumptious.

will

enjoy unwrapping the

little

201

land of plenty

packets to find the meat topped with green peas, yellow ginger, and a tiny splash of brilliant red pickled chile. leaves,

by any chance you are using fresh lotus

you should begin by blanching them

(There

is

works very effect

If

is

a cheater's tip that

nicely with

briefly in boiling water.

should mention:

I

I

have found that this dish

couscous instead of the homemade

very similar to that of the rice coating, and

on the preparation time. For best

results, stir in

powder before you add the couscous to the

it

1/4

rice

down

cuts

meal

—the

considerably

teaspoon of five-spice

meat.)

Serves 4 with two or three other dishes

-I 1/4

I

pork

pounds belly,

fresh, boneless

with or without

FOR THE MARINADE I

skin

I

4 dried lotus leaves

1

3-4 Sichuanese pickled chiles

fermented

(optional)

a

(optional)

cup white long-grain rice 1/2 teaspoon Sichuan peppercorns

wine or medium-dry sherry tablespoon Sichuanese sweet wheaten paste or sweet bean paste tablespoon red fermented bean curd with its juices tablespoon brown sugar 2 scallions, green parts only,

1/4 of a star anise a small piece of cassia bark or

2

ginger, peeled 2/3

cup fresh or frozen peas,

I

soybeans, or fava beans, shelled

FOR THE RICE MEAL

I

3/4

cinnamon I

1

finely sliced

teaspoons very

over a moderate flame for 10-15 minutes,

brittle, yellowish,

and

cool. Discard the

whole

it

in a

food processor

powder-fine.

finely

minced fresh ginger

stick

Prepare the aromatic rice meal: place the rice and spices stir

202

wine

rice

2 tablespoons Shaoxing rice

1/2-inch piece of fresh

I

tablespoon light soy sauce tablespoon dark soy sauce tablespoon Sichuanese

slightly fragrant.

spices.

until

When

it is

until

Remove from

in

a

dry

wok

and

the rice grains are

the

wok

and leave to

the rice has cooled completely, grind

of a coarse consistency,

like

couscous, not

MEAT DISHES

2 Cut the pork into

slices

about 2 inches long and

marinade ingredients, mix 3 While the pork

minutes

until

is

well,

1/8 inch thick.

Add

all

the

and leave to stand for about 15 minutes.

marinating, soak the lotus leaves

in

hot water for 5-10

they are soft and pliable. Cut the pickled chiles diagonally into

small sections, and cut the ginger into fine slivers.

4 Cut the lotus leaves

as best

sides about 5 inches long.

It

you can into roughly equilateral doesn't matter

they don't have holes that

will

ragged

line

bits of lotus leaf

to

let

Add mix

if

these are irregular, as long as escape. You can use a few

filling

the steamer

You should end up with about 20 5

the

triangles, with

if

you

like

—

discard the rest.

triangles.

the rice meal and 3-4 tablespoons water to the marinated pork and it in,

making sure every piece of pork

6 Lay a triangle of lotus

leaf

is

nicely encrusted with rice.

on your work surface with

its

base facing toward

you. Place on it two or three slices of pork, making sure they include a good mix of fat and lean meat. Press a few peas or beans (6 or 7) into the

meat, and top with a couple of slivers of ginger and a piece of pickled Fold the

two base corners

then

away from you to make

side

roll

down,

in

chile.

leaf,

and

a small rectangle. Lay the packets, folded

the base of your steamer. Repeat with the rest of the meat.

you only have a

two

of the triangle into the center of the

single, smallish

steamer, you

may have to

lay

If

the packets

layers thick.

7 To cook, steam the lotus packets over water at a good rolling

boil for

about 2 hours. Allow your guests to unwrap the packets with their chopsticks

and eat directly out of the lotus leaves.

203

land of plenty

STEAMED PORK KNUCKLE IN GINGER SAUCE Jiang zhi

In

of

my

to

early days in Sichuan, a friend and

visit a

river,

visited the fishing village

We

wandered along

passing thatched cottages and paddy

fields,

drip and flow of water, the misty, moist, intense

greenness of rural Sichuan. Later,

i2JL

I

Buddhist temple. All around was red earth and lush

bamboo, the

•

z/

Huang Long Xi (Yellow Dragon Stream).

the banks of the

^J*

zhou

we drank

tea

in

a teahouse

*iA

overlooking the wharf and explored the narrow, winding streets

,^ ^

with their creaking

wooden

houses. As the evening drew

stopped at a riverside restaurant and asked the

J*

with whatever were the local specialties.

We

splendid platter of the famous local yellow catfish {huang spicy bean sauce, and a dish of this magnificent

staff

in,

we

to serve us

ended up with a

la ding)

braised

in

a

steamed pork knuckle with

The pork was produced from one of the enormous bamboo steamers bubbling away by the entrance, where it had been cooking gently for a couple of hours, and was swiftly dressed with the ginger sauce. The pork alone was extremely tasty; with the sauce it was sublime. The following is just one of many methods used in Sichuan for cooking pork knuckle, which is a favorite treat at rural banquets. Sometimes the joint

ginger sauce.

is

braised

in

chili

bean sauce, sometimes stewed with snow-white butter

beans (xue dou). The famous Song Dynasty poet, calligrapher, and gourmet Su

Dongpo, who came from the Meishan area of Sichuan, tions of

some methods

of cooking pork knuckle.

following recipe not just because

it is

I've

Serves 4

204

wilt)

two or three other dishes

written descrip-

chosen to include the

a personal favorite, but also

flavors used are a pleasing contrast to the rich ruddiness

ciated with Sichuanese cooking.

left

because the

more famously

asso-

MEAT DISHES

1

fresh pork knuckle, with

2 tablespoons Shaoxing rice

wine or medium-dry sherry for the sauce

skin (about 2 pounds)

about 2 inches each, unpeeled 2 scaliions, white and green 3 pieces of fresh ginger,

a 2-inch piece of fresh ginger 2 tablespoons Chinkiang or

black Chinese vinegar

parts

teaspoon salt teaspoon whole Sichuan pepper

1

1/2-3/4

I

1/2

I

Use

a gas stove flame

knuckle

or a blowtorch to scorch the skin of the pork

the outer layer

until

tablespoon light soy sauce tablespoon sesame oil

is

crusty and blackened. Place

in

it

a

bowl of

hot water, soak for a few minutes, then use a knife to scrape away the burn layer, leaving a

gently

2 Place the knuckle with

its

in

browned

skin.

a pot of boiling

water with

skin (use the flat side of a cleaver

Return to a

boil

I

piece of ginger, crushed

or a heavy object), and

and simmer for about 30 minutes,

until just

I

scallion.

cooked. Dis-

card the cooking water, the ginger, and scallion, and allow the knuckle to cool

3

slightly.

When

the knuckle

cool enough to handle, use a sharp knife to cut the

is

meat away from the bone. piece. Lay the allel

boned knuckle

Work

slashes into the meat, but not

intervals.

Then make

carefully so the

skin side all

down on

meat remains

a cutting board.

in

one

Make

par-

the way through the skin, at

similar cuts at right angles to these, leaving a

I

-inch

chunky

crisscross pattern.

4 Place the scored meat skin side down

in

a

bowl that

will

fit

into

your

steamer. Roughly slice the remaining pieces of ginger and scallion and scatter

them over the pork.

xing rice wine. Place will

5

take

When

I

in

Sprinkle with the

salt,

Sichuan pepper, and Shao-

—

a steamer and steam until absolutely tender

this

1/2-2 hours.

the pork knuckle

the sauce. Mix

it

is

nearly ready, peel and finely chop the ginger for

with just enough cold water to cover

soy sauce, and sesame

it.

Add

the vinegar,

oil.

205

land of plenty

6

Remove

the pork knuckle from the steamer and turn

It

up onto a

skin side

serving dish. Pour over the sauce and serve. (The cooking juices can be

poured over, too, or used

as the base for a delicious soup.)

BOWL-STEAMED PORK BELLY WITH PICKLED VEGETABLES ban shao bai

^s

Most Westerners think of pork you leave

bits

^

best bred out of farm animals.

the Chinese way you

y%|

ing recipe, the initial blanching

•^

fat as a delicious

boneless pork belly

forms the heavy raw

The

salty pickled vegetables

beautifully.

And

It is,

you eat

if

as the

will

is

Han sbao

bai

these left

is

the horrid

or a dangerous substance

probably understand why.

In

the follow-

and browning of a piece of fresh,

followed by a long steaming that trans-

fat into

something melting and voluptuous.

provide a sharp note that complements the meat

Chinese

say, richly fat

without being greasy

as the Sichuanese might do, with

it

it's

The Chinese, however, have long luxury, and when you try eating it

vegetables and plain white rice, you won't find

rural Sichuan.

with distaste:

at the side of a steak,

J^i^

regarded pork

fat

one of the steamed dishes

it

{fei

one or two simple

er bu

stir-fried

overwhelming.

traditionally served at feasts in

Steamed dishes tend to feature prominently on the menus of

"field feasts" {tian xi)

because they can

be made

easily

in

advance and

to steam gently while the other dinner preparations are made, unlike

minute

One

ni).

stir-fried dishes

of the folk

names

—

a great

boon when catering

for such celebration dinners

dishes and nine steamed bowls" {san zbeng

attended, a makeshift stove had been built

is

jiu kou).

in a

last-

for hordes of people. actually "three

steamed

At one wedding lunch

courtyard from bricks and

I

clay,

and a special team of helpers spent two days preparing the food. By the time the guests arrived to greet the bride and groom, the dozen or so round tables

were already laden with cold dishes and deep-fried

tidbits,

and

later the

kitchen team unloaded bowl after bowl of piping hot steamed meats from a

towering stack of bamboo steamers simmering away on the stove.

To make 206

this dish

you

will

need

a

ceramic bowl about 2 inches deep and 8

MEAT DISHES

inches

in

diameter and a steamer that

steamers sold very reasonably

will

accommodate

Chinese supermarkets are

in

it

—the

bamboo

ideal.

Serves 4 with three other dishes arid plenty of rice

I

pound

fresh, boneless

belly, In

optional: 3-4 Sichuanese

pork

one piece, with

pickled chiles

skin

attached about 2 teaspoons dark soy sauce 1/2 cup peanut oil for frying still

1

Bring a pot of water to a utes.

Remove, then

I

I

boil,

tablespoon fermented black soybeans cup Sichuanese ya cai or Tianjin preserved vegetable

add the pork, and blanch for about 5 min-

rinse in cold water. While the

meat

with paper towels or a clean kitchen towel and smear

is still it all

hot, pat

it

dry

over (especially

the skin) with 1/2-1 teaspoon of dark soy sauce.

2 Heat the peanut

and sear

it

oil in

a

wok

to about 325°F, add the pork, skin side down,

for about 3 minutes until the skin

red-brown. Remove the meat from the ing water, again. Then

3

When

wok

is

slightly crispy

and return

it

and a dark

to the hot cook-

where it should soak for 5-10 minutes until the skin is supple remove it from the liquid and set it aside to cool completely.

the pork

along the top.

If

is

cool, cut

it

into 1/4-inch slices, each with a strip of skin

the slices are very wide, cut them

in half

across the direc-

tion of the skin (ideally the pieces should be about 3 inches by 2 inches).

Cut each of the 4 Lay the pork

pickled chiles into 2 or 3 sections.

slices in

one or two

tidy

bowl. Each slice should overlap the

rows across the whole base of your

last,

and the most important thing

that the strip of skin on each piece should be

the bowl (the Chinese say this arrangement

is

feng shu). Lay any fragments or broken slices

scant teaspoon of dark soy sauce

beans and pickled etable, pressing

chiles,

down

and then

all fill

in

is

contact with the surface of the pages of a book,"

yi

on top, and then sprinkle

a

"like

over the meat. Add the fermented the bowl with the preserved veg-

gently with your hand.

207

land of plenty

5 Place the bowl boiling

ically

water from a

in

your steamer, cover with the

lid,

and steam over energet-

Do make sure you whenever necessary.

water for about 2 hours. boiling kettle

replenish the

6 To serve, turn the contents of the bowl out onto a serving dish and

your guests help themselves. The dark

strips of skin should

make an

let

attrac-

tive pattern.

VARIATIONS Some cooks

elaborate on the basic recipe above to

will

steamed pork with pickled vegetables single

{long yan

make "dragon-eye" bai). They stuff a

han shao

fermented black bean into a section of pickled red

wrap each

slice of

pork around a

chile.

chile,

and then

These tubes are then stacked up

the bowl, with a surrounding wall of chopped pickles to keep them place.

When

the bowl

is

turned out onto the serving

stuffed chiles stare up like a

There {tian

is

shao

laid in

also a bo/).

dozen beady red dragon's

sweet version of

The pork

belly

the steaming bowl with

is

this dish that

sugar.The dish

is

very popular

is

rice that has

steamed for 2 hours,

in

tops of the

eyes.

boiled and then sliced.

first

some sweet bean

topped up with cooked glutinous

dish, the

in

The

paste, and the

Sichuan

in

slices are

bowl

been mixed with

just like the salty version,

is

then

and

lard

and

is

then

turned out onto a plate and sprinkled with white sugar.

RED-BRAISED PORK hong shao rou

A

This dish

^"^

is

made with

nese as "five-flower" pork layers of fat

1^1

in

make and it's

poetically in Chi-

hua rou) because of fat

its five

or

six

are braised to slow,

a sauce that finally reduces to a dark, syrupy

glaze, delicately flavored with star anise.

tastes sensational.

stir-fried vegetables, rice,

208

(y^u

known

and lean meat. The meat and

tender perfection

^

fresh pork belly,

My

It's

extremely easy to

Sichuanese friends

all

eat

it

with

and soup as part of a Chinese meal, but

equally delicious served with a pile of plain

mashed potatoes

MEAT DISHES

and a crisp salad or a simple dish of vegetables. Bear very is

rich,

usually

wok

the

results,

in

mind that the meat

so you won't want to eat

it

made

Dutch oven or other

in

free to

a flat-bottomed

make the

with anything too

oily.

is

Red-braised pork

braising pot, leaving

other, faster dishes at the last minute. For best

use a pot big enough to cook the pork

in

a single layer.

Serves 4 with two or three other dishes as part of a Chir)ese meal

l-l 1/4

pork

pound belly,

2 cups everyday stock (see

fresh, boneless

page 3 8) or chicken stock tablespoon dark soy sauce 2 tablespoons Shaoxing rice wine or medium-dry sherry 3/4 teaspoon salt 3 tablespoons brown sugar 1/2 of a star anise (4 segments)

preferably with

1

skin

I

a 2-inch piece of fresh ginger,

unpeeled 2 scallions, white and green

parts 3

1

tablespoons peanut

oil

Blanch the pork for a couple of minutes rinse in clean

pork into

water

(this

in

boiling water, then

step can be omitted

if

you are

in

remove and Cut the

a hurry).

2- to 3-inch chunks, leaving each piece with a layer of skin

mixture of lean meat and

fat.

Crush the ginger

slightly

with the

flat

and a

side of a

cleaver or a heavy object, and cut the scallions into 3 or 4 sections.

2 Heat the

oil

chunks and

in

the pot

stir-fry for a

other ingredients and

3 Bring the liquid to a

until

it

is

just beginning to

smoke. Add the pork

couple of minutes. Then add the stock and

the

stir well.

boil,

then simmer, half-covered or uncovered, over a

very low flame for about 2 hours, stirring from time to time, is

all

much reduced and the meat

is

until

the liquid

fork tender.

VARIATIONS You can use exactly the same method to cook spare meat, or beef, although beef tive

method

is

ribs,

chicken, rabbit

more commonly "red-braised" by an

that involves Sichuanese

chili

alterna-

bean paste and root vegetables

(see page 232).

209

land of plenty

SWEET-AND-SOUR PORK tang cu

li

ji

the smoky kitchen of the Bamboo Bar, one of my favorite Chengdu restaurants, a desperate pandemonium reigns. The place is always filled with guests demanding long lists of complicated dishes, but most of the cooking is done in a single wok. The head chef stands over the coal-fired stove stirring and tossIn

ing, flinging

\Sl •"^"^

spices and sauces into the

wok

with wild abandon.

His three assistants rush around the tiny kitchen, mincing garlic

and ginger, chopping meat into

Cl^fJjt

slices,

dices,

and

slivers,

and

washing dishes. The kitchen seems precariously balanced on the brink of chaos. ery,

Huge tubs

baskets overflowing with scallions, celin

riotous disorder.

mushrooms obstruct the floor. But, mad mess comes some of the best Sichuanese food

of soaking squid and dried

miraculously, out of this in

Bamboo

and Chinese cabbage stand on every shelf and surface

the district.Authentically spiced, nicely cooked, served with a complete lack

of pretension. This nishes, but

One

is

is

not a place for fancy vegetable carving or elaborate gar-

great for a delicious everyday feast.

of the dishes that the

Bamboo Bar does

Deep-fried strips of tender pork are dressed light-years

the same

in

best

is

sweet-and-sour pork.

a dark, tangy sauce that

is

away from the synthetic-looking orange confections served under

name

in

the West.

Serves 2 as a main dish with one vegetable, 4 with three other dishes

pound boneless pork loin (the meat from 2 or 3 pork

3/4

FOR THE MARINADE

chops)

peanut

oil

for deep-frying

FOR THE BATTER 2 eggs

210

cup potato flour or 3/8 cup cornstarch

1/4

1/2

teaspoon

salt

Hce wine or medium-dry sherry

2 teaspoons Shaoxing

MEAT DISHES

FOR THE SAUCE

green parts only 3 tablespoons peanut oil 2 teaspoons finely chopped 3 scalMons,

teaspoon salt 3 tablespoons white sugar 2 tablespoons Chinkiang or black Chinese vinegar teaspoon light soy sauce 2 1/2 teaspoons potato flour or 3 3/4 teaspoons 1/4

garlic

2 teaspoons finely

Trim any

1

I

from the meat. Cut

fat

these into 1/2-inch

mix

well,

and

2 Combine the for the sauce

3 Heat

oil

let sit

salt, in

cup everyday stock (see page 3 8) or chicken stock teaspoon sesame oil

3/4

cornstarch

1

into slices 1/2 inch thick, and then cut

it

strips. Place in a

Add

bowl.

sugar, vinegar, soy sauce,

and potato flour or cornstarch

a small bowl. Finely slice the scallion greens.

for deep-frying to 300°F. Beat the eggs together. In a bowl,

When

the

oil is

and

stir

I

1/2 eggs) to

mix the batter with the pork

hot,

of the battered strips into the ing,

the marinade ingredients,

for 30 minutes.

potato flour with enough beaten egg (about batter.

chopped

fresh ginger

1

oil,

mix the

make a thick Drop some

strips.

adding them individually to prevent stick-

with long chopsticks to separate. Fry the strips at about 300°F

for 3 minutes or so, until they are just

Repeat with more pork 4 Reheat the deep-frying

strips until

oil

cooked through. Remove and

you have cooked

to 375°F

Add

all

drain.

of them,

the pork strips

in

one or two

batches and deep-fry them

until

they are crisp and golden. Remove, drain,

and place on your serving

dish.

Keep them warm while you prepare the

sauce,

5 Heat the 3 tablespoons of garlic

Add

and ginger and all

oil in

stir-fry for

a clean

wok

the stock, bring the liquid to a

sauce ingredients from the small bowl.

then add the scallions and sesame sauce over the waiting pork

over a medium flame.

about 30 seconds,

strips.

boil,

until

the

and then add the prepared

Stir briskly as

oil, stir

Add

they are fragrant.

the liquid thickens,

once or twice, and pour the

Serve immediately.

land of plenty

VARIATION Deep-fried pork with

salt

and Sichuan pepper(j/oo yan

and serve the deep-fried pork

li

strips piping hot, with a

ground roasted Sichuan pepper (see page

omit the sauce,

ji):

dry dip of

salt

and

74).

SALT-FRIED PORK yan jian rou

This dish,

like

flavor," that

is,

the

more famous twice-cooked

salty

and beany and a

ence between the two dishes has a very different texture

in

is

little bit

pork,

is

hot. The main differ-

that the pork

is

added raw, so

the end. Salt-fried pork

kind of dish you might find on a family dinner table

L^k

with a few

'•

"homestyle

stir-fried vegetables, a

is

in

just the

Sichuan,

simple soup, and plenty of

Leeks are the most standard vegetable ingredient

it

rice.

the dish, but

in

long green Chinese scallions, green bell peppers, young ginger, celery,

and even

strips of

dry bean curd can be used instead.

Serves 2 as a main dish with rice and one vegetable, 4 with three other dishes

i/2

pound

tablespoons SIchuanese bean paste 1/2 tablespoons fermented black beans teaspoon light soy sauce 1/2 teaspoon sugar

fresh, boneless

I

pork belly 2-3 baby leeks or 5 scallions, white and green parts peanut oil

chili

I

I

salt to taste

1

Cut the pork thinly, at a

1/2

into very thin slices, about 3 inches by 2 inches.

steep angle, into slices

I

the 1/8

212

oil

Add

oil

and heat

until

hot but not

the pork slices and stir-fry briskly for 3-4 minutes, until

has cleared and the pork has lost

teaspoon of

leeks

1/2 inches long.

2 Season the wok. Add 3 tablespoons of fresh yet smoking.

Cut the

salt

most of

its

water content. Add

about halfway through the cooking.

MEAT DISHES

3

When one

the

oil

has cleared and begun to sizzle, push the pork slices up to

side of the

wok

and

tilt

the

wok

so the

oil

runs into the space you

Drop the chili bean paste and fermented black beans into the oil and stir-fry them for about 30 seconds, until the oil is red and fragrant. Then mix in the pork slices, add the soy sauce and sugar, and throw in all have created.

the leeks. Continue to

with

the leeks are just cooked, seasoning

stir-fry until

to taste. Serve.

salt

PORK SLIVERS WITH PRESERVED MUSTARD TUBER zha

cai rou

This simple, homestyle dish

L^3u

^^

is

si

most

delicious, a gentle entwining

of pale pork slivers, salty pickled vegetable and fresh scallion.

,^

also quick and easy to prepare.

whose name

^y^

literally

The preserved

means "pressed

the stem of a type of mustard green.

>

°'^

l^j

pickled

spicy brine, and

in

it

It

vegetable, zha

vegetable,"

was

was only

is

It's

cai,

made from

originally eaten fresh

in

the late nineteenth

century that an enterprising farmer from Fuling tried dry-salting

A^

way of preserving an unusually abundant harvest. The M^^rj^ result was so good that, with the encouragement of his brother, the farmer went into business, and within a few decades he and his imitators were producing zha cai all over the province. The method of it

as a

is

as follows: the

preparation

frames

in

mustard stems are

first

semidried on

wooden

the gentle winds of the Yangtze River valley; then they are salted,

pressed to extract

some

of their water content, mixed with ground chiles,

Sichuan pepper, and a selection of other spices, and sealed into an earthen-

ware

jar

The

to ferment. final

tard tuber

is

product

is

soft,

crunchy,

salty,

and subtly flavored. Pickled mus-

often eaten as a relish or chopped up and scattered over noodle

or bean curd dishes, but easily available

canned

in

it's

particularly delicious in the following stir-fry.

It is

Chinese supermarkets.

213

land of plenty

Serves 4 with three other dishes

1/2

pound boneless pork

teaspoon potato flour or 1/2 teaspoons cornstarch 2 teaspoons cold water teaspoon Shaoxing rice wine or medium-dry sherry

loin

1

(the nneat from about 2

I

pork chops) cup Sichuanese preserved mustard tuber 4 scalllons, white and green 2/3

I

FOR THE SAUCE

parts

peanut

FOR THE MARINADE a pinch of

1

teaspoon light soy sauce teaspoon potato flour or 1/8 teaspoons cornstarch tablespoons chicken stock

1/2

3/4

oil

I

salt

Cut the pork

3

into very thin slices and cut these evenly into thin strips, ide-

ally

1/8 inch thick. Place the strips in a bowl,

and

stir in

add the marinade ingredients,

one direction to combine. Set aside while you prepare the other

Ingredients.

2 Rinse the chile sediment from the preserved vegetable and cut slices

scallions,

chop them

into thin strips.

until

first into

into 3 sections, and then slice these pieces lengthwise

Combine the sauce

ingredients

3 Season the wok, then add 3 tablespoons of

slide

it

and then into very thin strips to match the pork. Wash and trim the

smoke it

starts rising.

into the

wok

Add

and

oil

2 teaspoons of

stir-fry briskly.

in

oil

a small bowl.

and heat over a high flame to the pork, mix well, then

As soon

as the

pork

strips have

separated and are starting to turn white, add the preserved vegetable and stir-fry for

sauce a

stir,

lions, stir

ing dish.

214

30-60 seconds, pour

it

until

into the

the vegetable

wok, and

is

stir quickly.

hot and fragrant. Give the Immediately add the

scal-

and toss for another 10-15 seconds, and then transfer to a serv-

MEAT DISHES

STIR-FRIED PORK SLIVERS

WITH

SWEET FERMENTED PASTE jing Jiang rou

k

^

jing Jiang rou

si is

meat

a popular everyday

restaurants of Sichuan.

topped with

si

The

dark, glossy

dish in the

mound

homes and

of pork slivers

is

a pile of crisp, white scallions, a nice contrast to the

richness of the meat. Serve

it,

perhaps, with a spicy dish

like fish-

fragrant eggplants and a couple of simple stir-fried vegetables. For

best results, the pork slivers should be very finely and evenly cut

—

this

way they

will

can be served while dishes,

be quickly and simultaneously cooked and

still

very tender. As with

all

stir-fried

meat

begin to

cook

make sure you season the wok before you

to prevent sticking.

Serves 2 as a main dish with one simple vegetable, 4 with three other dishes

pound boneless pork loin (the meat from 2 or 3 pork

3/4

chops) with 4 scallions,

some

v^^hite

parts only

I

FORTHEMARiNADE

1

teaspoon

Cut the pork

salt

into thin slices

1/8 inch thick. Place in a small in

3

teaspoons cornstarch

2 teaspoons cold water

fat

about 5 teaspoons Sichuanese sweet bean paste 1/3 cup peanut oil 1/2

2 teaspoons potato flour or

teaspoon Shaoxing rice wine or medium-dry sherry

for the sauce teaspoon light soy sauce 1/2 teaspoon white sugar 2 tablespoons chicken stock 1/2

and then into

long, thin slivers, ideally

one direction to combine. Leave for about

15 minutes.

Cut the

into 4-inch sections and then lengthwise into fine slivers. Leave in a

cold water to refresh. Dilute the sweet paste with to give a runny consistency.

2

When

about

bowl, add the marinade ingredients, and

Combine the sauce

you are ready to cook, drain the

I

scallions

bowl of

tablespoon of water,

ingredients

scallion slivers

stir

in

a small bowl.

and set aside.

215

land of plenty

3 Season the wok, then add the

to smoke.

Add

oil

and heat over a high flame

the pork slivers and

stir-fry briskly.

until

it

begins

After a minute or two,

when they

have separated and are becoming pale, push the slivers to one

side of the

wok,

tilt

the wok, and

let

the

oil

run to the other side. Place the

sweet paste into the space you have created and until

it is

fragrant. Then

slivers together, slivers are

tilt

the

wok

and add the prepared sauce. Mix

cooked through, and then turn onto

4 Top with the

10-20 seconds

stir-fry for

back to normal, mix the paste and pork well,

check that the pork

a serving plate.

scallion slivers to serve.

PORK SLIVERS WITH YELLOW CHIVES jiu

Yellowed chives

(jiu

huang rou

si

huang), which can be found

in

some Chinese

food stores, are ordinary Chinese chives that have been grown in

-t-

hothouses and deprived of

chives have a powerful

V^l

^*vj^

in this

Chinese chives have

common European

The darkness

that will

chives.

flat

fill

steals their

There are several

your shopping bag and

silky

and succulent, a

varieties,

real

much

larger than

native to China,

where they

leaves and are

They are

are thought to have been cultivated for years.

used

aroma

your kitchen. When cooked, they are treat.

A^

sunlight.

greenness, leaving their leaves a pale, shy, delicate yellow. These

some three thousand

most notably the

leaf chives

recipe and the flowering chives you will find described on page

The technique of yellowing leaf since the Han Dynasty. These days it 291.

chives is

in

hothouses has been known

a Sichuanese specialty, although not

exclusive to the region.

The

following recipe

series of recipes for

is

pork

a

variations below).

Serves 4 with three other dishes

216

common home-cooked

slivers fried

dish.

It's

one of

a

whole

with one vegetable or another (see

MEAT DISHES

pound boneless pork loin (the nneat from about 2

or 2 1/4 teaspoons cornstarch 2 teaspoons water

1/2

pork chops) 1/3 pound Chinese yellowed

FOR THE SAUCE teaspoon light soy sauce 3/4 teaspoon Chinkiang or black Chinese vinegar 1/4 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon potato flour or 3/4 teaspoon cornstarch 2 tablespoons chicken stock

chives

1/2

4 tablespoons peanut

oil

FOR THE MARINADE over a 1 A teaspoon salt teaspoon Shaoxing rice wine or medium-dry sherry 1/2 teaspoons potato flour

just I

I

1

1

Cut the pork or in

as evenly as possible into very fine strips, discarding any fatty

gristly bits. Ideally,

the strips

Leave to stand for about

2

Wash and

be about 2 inches long. Place them

all

1

in

them. in

the

oil is really

Stir-fry for a

hot, add the

minute or so

the chives. Continue to

the sauce a

stir

and add

one direction to mix.

them

into 2-inch lengths.

Combine

a small bowl.

Season the wok, then add 4 tablespoons of

When

stir in

5 minutes.

trim the chives, and then cut

the sauce ingredients

3

will

add the marinade ingredients, and

a bowl,

it

pork

until

oil

slivers

the meat

stir-fry until

to the wok.

is

and heat over a high flame. and

stir briskly

just

about cooked, then toss

to separate

the chives are tender, and then give

Cook

for a few seconds

more

until

the

sauce has thickened, and then turn onto a serving plate. Serve immediately.

VARIATIONS made with

Similar stir-fried dishes can be

and several other vegetables.

improved

if

you sprinkle the

If

or green

bell

peppers,

you're using celery, the texture

much them for

celery, red

strips with a

little

salt

and leave

is

15-30 minutes to drain out excess water. Fleshy vegetables are best fried in

advance for a minute or two over a moderate heat, to "break their

rawness": they can then be added to the meat at the don't pre-fry them, the pork

last

minute.

if

you

(If

you

may be overdone by the time the vegetables

are ready.) You can substitute chicken or beef for the pork recipe

stir-

in

the above

like.

217

land of plenty

PORK SLICES WITH BLACK CLOUD EAR FUNGUS mu'er rou plan

This simple but colorful stir-fry often appears on Sichuan dinner

menus the

at

home or

wok with

restaurants. The pale pork slices are tossed

in

bright red pickled chiles, slithery black fungus, and slices

of crisp green lettuce stem. The sauce

because

we;)

it is

seasoned only with

than deeply colored flavorings

Do

use pork that

is

much improves the

a

little

like

fatty

dish. I've

Serves 2 as a main dish with

rice,

mushrooms

chops), preferably with fat

3 celery stalks salt

or a

1/4

of a red bell pepper

large clove of garlic and an

amount

equivalent

and white pepper, rather

—the texture of the

fat

suggested using celery as a substitute

cucumber could

also be used.

peanut

oil

teaspoon salt teaspoon Shaoxing rice wine or medium-dry sherry 4 teaspoons potato flour or 6 teaspoons cornstarch 2 tablespoons water 1/2 1

FOR THE SAUCE

white and green

parts 2-3 Sichuanese pickled chiles

I

salt

soy sauce and Chinese vinegar.

FOR THE MARINADE

pound boneless pork (the meat from about 2 pork

1/2

scailion,

called "white-flavored" {ha\

4 with three other dishes

a small handful of cloud ear

I

is

you can

if

for lettuce stem, but thin slices of

some

in

of fresh

teaspoon salt teaspoon ground pepper 3/4 teaspoon potato flour or 1/8 teaspoons cornstarch 1/4 cup chicken stock 1/4 1/8

I

ginger

1

2

Soak the cloud ears Slice the

pork

inches). Place

218

in

hot water for about 15 minutes

as thinly as possible (ideally into pieces

in

a small bowl,

until soft.

about 2 inches by 2

add the marinade ingredients, and mix

well.

MEAT DISHES

3

Cut the cloud ears into slices of a similar size to the pork, discarding any knobbly bits. With a knife, remove the tough outer strings from the celery (you may wish to make the slices uniand mix well. Cut the scallion

and cut each stalk at a steep angle into thin

stalks

cut the thick ends of the stalks

in

form). Sprinkle with 2 or 3 pinches of salt

and pickled chiles or red Peel

and thinly

together

bell

just begins to tip

pepper

at a steep angle into very thin slices.

the garlic and ginger. Mix the

slice

smoke.

1/3

Stir

I

the meat into the

cup of

oil

and heat over a high flame

tablespoon of

wok

and

oil

into the pork,

stir-fry briskly.

When

separated and are turning white, pour off any excess

spoons

sauce ingredients

a small bowl.

in

4 Season the wok, then add

then

slices

half lengthwise to

oil,

mix

until

well,

and

the pieces have

leaving

2-3 table-

the wok, and add the ginger, garlic, and pickled chiles or red

in

it

bell

pepper. Stir-fry for about 20 seconds until the ginger and garlic are fragrant.

Then add the celery, cloud ears, and scallions, and continue to stir-fry 30-60 seconds until the celery is just cooked. Finally, give the sauce a and add

for stir

to the wok. Stir a few times until the sauce has thickened, and

it

then turn out onto a serving plate. Serve immediately.

ANTS CLIMBING A TREE (BEAN THREAD NOODLES WITH MINCED MEAT) ma If

\^^

you dangle

sticks, tiny

a

tree."

shang shu

few strands of these noodles from your chop-

a

morsels of meat

This

Sichuanese

yi

is

an

will cling

economical

to

and

them

"like ants climbing

hearty

dish,

typical

of

home cooking and modest restaurants, but it's tasty a great interlaced mound of glassy noodles dot-

and attractive

—

ted with ground meat, flakes of scarlet chile, and tiny rings of

m

green

scallion.

Some cooks

deep-fry the dried noodles instead

of soaking them, to delicious effect.

The noodles

do, however,

219

land of plenty

tend to disintegrate with that method. These noodles, which are made from

pea or mung bean starch, are readily available

in

Asian food stores.

Serves 4 with two other dishes

pound bean thread noodles teaspoon Shaoxing rice wine or medium-dry sherry

tablespoons chili bean paste 2/3 cups everyday stock (see page 3 8) or chicken stock 1/2 teaspoon dark soy sauce 3 scallions, green parts only,

1/4 I

I

salt 1/4

1

pound ground pork or

beef

peanut oil 3 teaspoons

1

1/2

I

finely sliced light soy

Soak the noodles (drain

them

in

sauce

hot water for at least 15 minutes before you begin

Add

just before cooking).

the Shaoxing rice wine and a couple

of generous pinches of salt to the ground

meat and mix

2 Season the wok, then add 2 tablespoons of

Add

the ground meat and

teaspoon or so of the

oil is

red and

light

moments

drained noodles and

3

When

light

soy sauce.

Add

the

chili

and heat over a high flame.

browned and

soy sauce and

the stock has

come

becomes too

if it

stir well.

Tip

salt

to a

in

crispy,

bean paste and

fragrant, taking care not to burn

the heat for a few

son with

oil

stir-fry until lightly

well.

it

hot).

stir-fry until

(remove the

Add

with a

wok from

the stock and the

the dark soy sauce for color, and sea-

to taste.

boil,

simmer over

a

medium flame

for about

10 minutes, until the liquid has mostly evaporated and been absorbed. Finally,

220

add the

scallions,

mix

well,

and transfer to a serving

dish.

MEAT DISHES

FIRE-EXPLODED KIDNEY FLOWERS huo bao yao hua

The

>?

me

first

time

I

ever visited Chengdu,

this dish in a restaurant and, as

guess what

was

I

eating.

I

I

my

savored

sauce and had no idea at

JiS^

delicious.

The

dish

pected delicacies.

ybtk

Chinese cooking cut carefully

me

for

in

It

is

at

all.

Huo

bao,

which

method

that

is

in

to

kidneys as you

is

and quite

crisp, dainty,

ability of

offal into

unex-

the preparation

in

—the

kidneys must be

chopped and

The

means "fire-exploded,"

literally

laid

out neatly

actual cooking takes

the

is

name of

very high temperature.

stir-frying briefly at a

a It

superb for preserving the crispness and freshness of cer-

name

the

describe meat that

me

morsels

also an illustration of the old truism that

all

a special manner, the vegetables

tain ingredients that, like

The hua

—

example of the

a perfect

a plate, the sauce ingredients blended in a bowl.

no time a

is

is

cooking method that involves is

Huo bao yao hua

frilly

honey-colored

a

in

Sichuanese cooks to transform the most clumsy

vi^

on

all.

have never seen or tasted them before

offered

challenged

it,

looked at the pinkish,

tossed with lettuce root and pickled chiles

k]^

Zhou Yu

friend

is

kidney and

of the dish

cut

in

liver,

become

means

"old"

it

if

overcooked.

term often used to

"flower," a

such a way as to make

(lao)

unfold

like a

blossom

during cooking.

Don't be put

off

by the tricky cutting method, which

used for preparing fresh squid it's

not as complicated as

it

in

Chinese recipes

more

stem and pickled red

chiles,

readily available celery

Serves 2 as a main dish with

rice,

is

similar to that

you have is

a sharp knife,

concerned, the

to use a high flame and to keep the

is

time as short as possible. The dish as cooked

stitute the

if

sounds. As far as the cooking

most important thing to remember strips of lettuce

—

Sichuan

in

but

and red

it's

bell

still

is

usually

delicious

made with if

you sub-

pepper.

4 with two or three other dishes

221

land of plenty

3 pig's kidneys

teaspoon salt teaspoon potato flour or 3/4 teaspoon cornstarch

(about 3/4-1

1/4

pound) 1

1/2

or 2 celery sticks

FOR THE SAUCE

salt

2 scallions, white parts only

teaspoon salt teaspoon potato flour or 1/8 teaspoons cornstarch a couple of pinches of ground white pepper or 6-8 turns of a black pepper mill teaspoon light soy sauce teaspoon Shaoxing rice wine or medium-dry sherry 2 tablespoons chicken or beef 1/4

2 Sichuanese pickled red

3/4

chiles or a 1/4 of a red bell

I

pepper 2 cloves of garlic and an

equivalent

amount

of fresh

ginger

I

10 tablespoons

peanut

oil

1

FOR THE MARINADE I

1/2

Shaoxing

rice

wine or

medium-dry sherry 1

Lay the kidneys

flat

on

stock

a cutting

board and use a cleaver or sharp knife to

them in half, parallel to the board. Lay each half skin-side-down on the board. Then use the knife, again held parallel to the board, to slice away the core of each kidney, leaving only the pale pink-brown kidney flesh. You may need to make several delicate cuts to do this. Now hold the knife at about a 30-degree angle to the board and make little cuts across the entire inner cut

surface of each kidney, about 1/8 inch apart, taking care not to cut

all

the

way through to the board. Then, with the knife held at a right angle to the board, make similar cuts perpendicular to the original cuts, again taking care not to cut right through the kidneys. The entire inner surface of each kidney should

now

into rectangular

be cross-hatched with

small postage stamps. Don't curl

little lines. Finally,

or diamond-shaped pieces about the

worry

if

these are a

bit

cut each kidney

size of a

uneven

couple of

—they

up during the cooking anyway. (For more elaborate ways of

will

all

cutting, see

below.) Put the kidney pieces into a bowl, add the marinade ingredients,

and

stir well.

Set aside while you prepare the other ingredients.

2 De-string the celery sticks and cut them into 2-inch

strips

about the thick-

ness of chopstick handles. Sprinkle with 2 pinches of salt and mix well. Cut

the scallions and Sichuanese chiles at a steep angle into "horse ear"

222

slices.

MEAT DISHES

If

you are using red

bell

pepper, cut

it

into thin slices about 2 inches long.

Peel and thinly slice the garlic and ginger. Connbine the sauce ingredients

in

a small bowl.

3

Heat the and

oil

in

stir-fry for

a

wok

until

is

it

10-15 seconds

smoking (about 350°F). Add the kidneys

until

ning to turn pale. Then pour off

all

they have separated and are just begin-

but about 2 tablespoons of the

heatproof container, return to a high flame, and toss

and scallions (and the Sichuanese

chiles,

if

in

oil

into a

the ginger,

garlic,

you are using them).

once or twice and then add the celery (and red

bell

pepper,

Concooked. Then

tinue to stir-fry for about a minute until the kidneys are just

pour

in

the sauce and

slightly. Turn

stir

more

for a few seconds

until

it

Stir just

using).

if

has thickened

onto a plate and serve immediately.

VARIATIONS If

you are enjoying the cutting and want to try something even

fancier,

you

might have some fun with the following two variations on the method described above:

"Eyebrows" (me/ mao yao hua): Make the 30-degree cuts as described above. Then

but cut

cuts

in

in

the kidney flesh

the same manner,

the way through to the board on every third cut. Trim any very

all

make them about 3 of kidney that do look

long pieces to frilly

make the perpendicular

strips

inches a

little

in

length.

like

You

will

end up with

very hairy eyebrows

when

cooked.

"Phoenix right

tails" {feng

wei yao hua): Prepare as for "eyebrows," except cut

through to the board for part of each perpendicular

cut,

and then

sever the piece completely for every third cut. This way, one end of each piece will have three fronds branching out

like

the

tail

of the mythical bird.

223

land of plenty

STIR-FRIED PIG'S LIVER bai you

Liver, like kidneys,

best cooked swiftly, which makes

suited to the Chinese

well

larly

everyday

is

gan pian

fare,

but

it

stir-fry.

has a delicacy that

is

it

The following rare

particudish

European

in

is

liver

dishes. For best results, use a very sharp knife and take care to

make the

One

jxS* *

of

amazingly,

V^ -^

cover

it

liver slices as thin

my

sources for

was once treated

this recipe

is

is

been unable to

ground maps hidden among dry-fried eels. Did

culinary secrets to subvert

shoots" part of

its lists

someone

cookbook

that,

On

back

find

its

fa x/ng, "for internal cir-

most commonly associated with

documents. The book appears to be recipes, and so far I've

a 1980s

as classified information.

bears the tell-tale phrase nei bu

culation only," which

•

and even as possible.

a

simple

political

collection

of

any atomic formulae or under-

of ingredients for twice-cooked pork and

think that the United States might use China's

its

some complex

political

system?

Or

food-related cipher?

are "pork" and

The mind

"bamboo

boggles.

Serves 2 as a main dish with rice and one vegetable dish, 4 with two or three dishes as part of a Chinese

meal

a small handful of dried cloud

ear

mushrooms

sticks salt

2 scalllons, white parts only

Sichuanese pickled chiles or 1/2

of a red bell pepper

2 cloves of garlic

equivalent

and an

amount

of fresh

ginger 9 ounces pig's liver about 10 tablespoons peanut oil

224

teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons potato flour or 1/8 teaspoons cornstarch a couple of pinches of ground white pepper or 6-8 turns of a black pepper mill teaspoon Shaoxing rice wine or medium-dry sherry teaspoon light soy sauce 2 tablespoons everyday stock (see page 3 8) teaspoon sesame oil 1/4

a small handful of tender baby bok choy leaves or 2 celery

3

FOR THE MARINADE

I

I

1

1

I

MEAT DISHES

1

2

Soak the cloud ears

If

in

very hot water for about 30 minutes.

you are using baby bok choy, use only the very tender and cut them into 2-inch

ery, de-string the sticks

of chopstick handles. Sprinkle with 2 pinches of

from the cloud ears and cut them into chunky red

3

pepper, cut

bell

Remove still

it

Combine the sauce

the outer

one

in

membrane from the

piece, cut

it

in half

lengthwise.

evenly as possible into thin slices gristly bits.

Cut the

strips.

slices.

—the

If

scallions

bits

and

you are using

long. Peel

ingredients

liver. If

using cel-

Remove any hard

about 2 inches

into thin strips

the garlic and ginger.

slice

If

about the thickness

strips salt.

Sichuanese chiles at a steep angle into "horse ear"

leaves.

and thinly

a small bowl.

in

the main part of the

Then cut each piece of

liver

is

liver as

thinner the better. Discard any

Put the slices into a small bowel, add the marinade ingredients,

and mix well.

4 Heat

I

tablespoon of

and 2 pinches of into a

salt

bowl and set

oil in a

and

wok

liver

and start turning oil,

add the

return the

oil

pale.

stir

it

has thickened

Add

until

the cloud ear slices

all

it

until

a high flame. Tip

is

just beginning to

the slices separate

but about 2 tablespoons of

and scallions (and the pickled

chiles,

if

using),

and

to a high flame. Stir once or twice, then add the cloud ears

about a minute

and add

wok

Immediately pour off

and bok choy or celery (and the red stir-fry for

the

in

and cook for 10-15 seconds

garlic, ginger,

wok

very hot.

20-30 seconds over

aside.

5 Heat 10 tablespoons of peanut

smoke. Add the

until

stir-fry for

until

bell

the liver

is

pepper,

if

using)

barely cooked. Give the sauce a

to the wok. Stir-fry for a few seconds slightly. Turn

onto

a plate

and continue to

more

until

the sauce

and serve immediately.

225

land of plenty

BOILED BEEF SLICES zhu

shui

A FIERY SAUCE

IN

niu rou

Sichuanese people joke that outsiders, wary of the fiery local

j|>

^^^

vors, order this dish

thing mild and soothing

j,»

^m

boiled

in

water."

and

chiles

originated

in

evaporated over a

The oxen, poor nourish the

salt

—

in

Chinese

it's

because

name

lash-

known

have

said to

as Sichuan's "salt

region's historic

to drive the machinery that drew in

the earth; the brine was then

workers

in

as they carried

out their punishing outdoor

you have a taste for spicy food,

if

Sichuan,

coldest days of the year. Serve

deep serving bowl for

it

it'll

salt.

dishes like this one, which did at least

and perfect for a cold winter's day when you need

a large,

It's

was the center of the deep

on

off with a sizzling pile of

Sichuan pepper.

Oxen used

ended up

not for the fainthearted, but

in

means "beef

to leave an unusually pure and intensely flavored

things,

warmth. As they say

just

sensationally hot, a dish based

it

salty liquid buried fire

its

lip-tingling

salt-mining industry.

up the

the hope of eating some-

Zigong, the city poetically

capital" {yan du)

1^

in

bean sauce and finished

ings of chili

ground

^^1S»

In fact

fla-

restaurants

in

firing

it's

labor.

It's

fabulous,

up with energy and

make you pour with sweat, even on the

with plenty of plain white

rice. You will

need

this dish.

Serves 2 as a main dish, 4 with rice arid two or three other dishes

head of celery (about pound) 4 scallions, white and green I

I

parts

a small handful of dried chiles

(8-10 chiles)

about

I

pound lean beef

(flank steak

is

good)

salt I

226

tablespoon Shaoxing rice wine or medium-dry sherry

about 1/3 cup peanut oil 2 teaspoons Sichuan pepper 3 tablespoons chili bean paste 3 cups everyday stock (see page 3 8) or chicken stock 2 teaspoons dark soy sauce 1

4 tablespoons potato flour

mixed with 4 tablespoons cold water, or 6 tablespoons

cornstarch mixed with 6

tablespoons cold water

MEAT DISHES

1

Clean and remove the fibrous outer edge of the celery

or 4 sections, then

stalk into 3

slice

stalks.

Chop each

these lengthwise into 1/2-inch sticks.

Gently crush the scallions and chop them into 3 sections to match the celery.

Wearing rubber

as possible.

about

thin slices

gloves, snip the chiles

Remove any

in half,

discarding as

from the beef and cut

fat

it,

many seeds

against the grain, into

pound of

inch by 2 inches (you should have about 3/4

I

Add

beef after trimming).

a

1/4

teaspoon of

and the Shaoxing rice

salt

wine, mix well, and leave to marinate while you prepare everything else.

2 Heat chiles

3

tablespoons of

a

brown

are just beginning to ately slide the spices

down

have cooled finely

oil in

and Sichuan pepper and

a

wok

until

hot but not yet smoking.

stir-fry until

(take care not to burn them).

out into a bowl, leaving the little,

move them onto

oil in

a cutting

Return the

oily

wok

salt

Then immedi-

board and chop them both hands or a

in

later.

to the stove and heat over a high flame.

smoking, add the vegetables and

teaspoon of

the

the wok. When they

with a gentle rocking motion, using a cleaver taken

two-handled chopper. Set them aside to use

3

Add

they are fragrant and the chiles

stir-fry for a

When

it

is

minute or two, adding 1/4-1/2

to taste, until they are hot and just-cooked but

still

crunchy.Then pour them into the serving bowl.

4 Heat another

3

tablespoons of

oil in

beginning to smoke. Turn the heat paste, and stir-fry for

Add

the

down

about 30 seconds,

wok

over a high flame,

to medium, add until

the

oil

is

in

the

until just chili

bean

red and fragrant.

the stock and the dark soy sauce, season to taste with

salt,

and return

Then add the potato flour or cornstarch mixone direction to coat all the pieces. When vigorously, drop in the beef slices. Wait for the sauce to

to a boil over a high flame. ture to the beef and

the sauce

is

boiling

stir well in

return to a boil and then use a pair of chopsticks to gently separate the slices.

Simmer

spoon

it

for a minute or so, until the beef

just

the

wok

until

wok and

dry

it

well.

Heat another

dramatically.

If

3^

tablespoons of

smoking. Sprinkle the chopped chiles and Sichuan pep-

per over the beef dish and then pour over the smoking

it

cooked, and then

onto the waiting vegetables. Pour over the sauce.

5 Swiftly rinse out the oil in

is

you move

quickly, the dish will

still

be

oil,

fizzing

which

will sizzle

when you

bring

to the table. 227

land of plenty

VARIATIONS Exactly the as eels

same method can be used to cook

and exotic seafood.

you are using

If

slices of

eels

pork or

or whole

fish,

need the potato flour or cornstarch coating that keeps the soft

in

fish, as

well

you won't

slices slippery-

the recipe above.

The vegetable

part of the dish can be varied at

Sichuan they often

will: in

use Chinese leeks, lettuce stems, or bean sprouts, whether on their own,

mixed together, or with

celery.

The important

thing

to have something

is

fresh and crunchy to contrast with the soft, rich meat.

DRY-FRIED BEEF SLIVERS gan bian

^g^ I

k^ /^^^

The following

dish

is

a

niu rou

common

si

variation of the

dish dry-fried eel slivers {gan bian shan rice paddies of

famous Sichuanese

Yellow eels

live

in

the

southern and eastern China, and they were tradi-

by local farmers

tionally caught

si).

in

the spring and early

summer

as a

seasonal treat. These days, they are commercially farmed and are a

^^

common

i/>l

are killed to order and are always eaten absolutely fresh. Their flesh

sight in the

markets of Sichuan, wriggling around

basins of oxygenated water

"^

AZk ^V||%

on the ground. The

in

great

long, slender eels

has a crisp, pleasing texture and a wonderful savory taste that

ascribed to a natural richness ration for commercially

The

dry-frying

marinade nor sauces, but

glutamic acid (this acid

is

a Sichuanese invention.

It

which

is

is

the inspi-

uses neither

on the gradual drying out of the main ingredient

over a moderate heat and the subsequent addition of spices and principal ingredient,

is

produced monosodium glutamate).

method

relies

in

usually cut into strips

or

fine slivers,

flavorings.

ends up

The

slightly

crisp and chewy, but succulent within, with a delicious toasty fragrance and a dry,

spicy taste. Eels, beef, pork, and dried squid can

all

be dry-fried, as well as some

vegetable ingredients, such as green beans, eggplant, and bitter melon.

Fresh yellow eels {shan yu or huang shan) are the Sichuanese ingredient of choice, but

I

have written the recipe using beef, which

used by Sichuanese cooks.

228

is

a variation often

MEAT DISHES

2-3

Serves

as a

main

pound lean beef

chili bean paste teaspoon light soy sauce 1/2 teaspoon sesame oil

4 celery stalks

I

salt to taste

a

I

1/2-inch piece of fresh

chili oil

1/2

cup peanut oil tablespoon Shaoxing rice wine or medium-dry sherry

74)

1/3

1

to finish (optional)

teaspoon ground roasted Sichuan pepper (see page

ginger 2 scallions, white parts only

I

4 with three other

2-3 tablespoons Sichuanese

(flank steak

good)

is

dish,

meal

dishes as part of a Chinese

1

and one vegetable

dish with rice

Cut the beef evenly

into thin slices and then against the grain into fine sliv-

ers (less than a 1/4 inch thick). Discard any fat or gristly bits. Using a knife,

scrape off the tough outer strings of the celery stalks, chop them into 3inch sections, and then cut these lengthwise into thin strips to beef. Sprinkle the celery with a

(about 1/4 teaspoon slivers.

Cut the

and

is

initially

match the

cup of fresh peanut

as the beef releases

beginning to crisp up

disappears).

When

the

wok

oil is clear,

side of the

have created.

seconds,

of the water

oil.

its

until

and

Drop the oil

this will take

is

into fine

ginger.

Heat over

a high

liquid will

juices. Stir-fry constantly its

water content

about 10 minutes, depending on

dries out, splash the Shaoxing rice let

it

tilt

chili

wine around

sizzle.

down wok so

turn the heat

wok, and

the

—

it

notice that the beef starts sizzling as the water

will

As the meat

the edges of the

one

some

and cut

the liquid has cleared and the beef has lost most of

the beef you use (you

3

1/3

it,

smoking, and then add the beef and mix well. The

until

become cloudy until

to draw out

the ginger, slice

scallion whites into fine slivers to

2 Season your wok, then add flame

little salt

will do). Peel

match the

the

to medium, push the beef up to

the

oil

bean paste into the

red and fragrant.

Add

oil

runs into the space you

and

stir-fry for

about 30

the ginger and scallions, mix

everything together, and continue to stir-fry for another 10 seconds or so until

you can smell the

ginger. Finally,

add the celery

strips,

soy sauce, and

229

land of plenty

salt

to taste, and continue to stir-fry until the celery

Remove

wok from

the

the heat,

stir in

the sesame

oil,

just

is

and

tip

cooked.

onto a serv-

ing plate.

4 Drizzle with

a

little

chili

desired, and sprinkle with a

oil, if

few generous

pinches of Sichuan pepper.

SPICY STEAMED BEEF WITH RICE MEAL zheng

fen

narrow back streets of the old

the

In

niu rou

Manchu

snack shops and restaurants are open to the

Chengdu, the

tiny

street. Often,

under the eaves of the wood-framed

few

of

district

buildings, a

or chicken are simmering gently to

clay pots of spare ribs

tempt passersby. Nearby, a huge wokful of water bubbles away

Ap* V

J^

1^^

under towers of will

tiny

bamboo

steamers.

be assailed by the scent of

rich,

If

you

lift

their lids

you

aromatic chunks of beef that

have been steamed to melting tenderness, languidly embraced by a soft,

comforting layer of rice meal. The beef

steamer, drizzled with sesame

oil,

is

served

in

the

and scattered with ground

spices and the fresh sharpness of garlic, scallions, and coriander (cilantro).The

marinade ingredients vary from place to place or two of the

fermented a

vendor

liquid

from

jars of

rice wine. The following recipe

who

specializes in

riverside. You can

make

it

homemade

in

a spoonful

some add

based on one described to

lotus

rice meal.

me

by

market near the Chengdu

at a

with lamb or fatty pork

Serves 4 with three other dishes

230

is

steamed dishes

See the recipe for pork steamed cheater's substitute for

—some people add

Sichuan preserved bean curd, and

if

you'd rather.

leaves

on page 20! for

a

MEAT DISHES

about a pound of flank steak 2/3 cup long grain white rice

3 tablespoons

vegetable

FOR THE MARINADE

teaspoon ground Sichuanese chiles 1/2 teaspoon ground roasted Sichuan pepper (see page 1/2

bean paste tablespoon dark soy sauce chili

tablespoon light soy sauce teaspoons finely chopped fresh ginger 4 tablespoons everyday stock (see page 3 8) or chicken stock 2 tablespoons Sichuanese fermented rice wine or Shaoxing rice wine or nnedium-dry sherry 1

74)

3

2 teaspoons

Cut the beef

mixed with a water

and

oil

little

cold

2-3 scallions, white and green parts, sliced into thin rings

a small handful of fresh coriander (cilantro) leaves, torn or roughly chopped

against the grain into 2-inch by 2-inch slices about 1/4 inch

thick. Put the slices into a bowl,

well,

sesame

2 cloves of garlic, pureed and

1

1

oil

TO SERVE

2 tablespoons Sichuanese

I

peanut or

let sit in a

2 While the beef

is

add

all

the marinade ingredients, mixing

cool place for 30 minutes.

marinating, stir-fry the rice

in

a dry

wok

over a moderate

flame, until the grains are brittle, yellowish, and slightly fragrant. This will

take 10-15 minutes. bits of cassia

leave to cool.

(Some cooks

bark to enhance

When

the rice

is

its

fry the rice with a star anise

fragrance.)

cold, grind

it

in

Remove from a

the

food processor

and a few

wok and until

it

is

of a coarse consistency, a bit finer than couscous but not powder-fine.

3

Add

the rice meal to the beef, with about 1/4 cup of cold water. Mix well

to encrust the beef with rice grains. Put the beef into an earthenware bowl, place this

in

a steamer,

and steam over boiling water for about 2

hours, replenishing the water as needed.

When

you are ready to

eat,

remove the bowl from the steamer; scatter the beef with the ground sesame oil,garlic-water, scallions, and coriander; and serve.

spices,

231

land of plenty

VARIATION If

you are using pork,

skin left

on

if

it's

best to use spare ribs or fresh pork

you want to be

really

Chinese

—

the

fat will

belly,

with the

become

deli-

ciously soft during the long steaming. Add a teaspoon or so of Sichuan pep-

per and a couple of

finely sliced scallion

greens to the marinade, and omit

the garnishes, except for the garlic and coriander (cilantro). Most cooks will also place a

kling of salt,

few fresh peas or chunks of yam or potato, with a

on top of the pork

the vegetables

is

in

sprin-

the steaming bowl. The soft blandness of

a nice contrast to the rich meat.

RED-BRAISED BEEF WITH WHITE RADISH hong shao Red-braising

M

^J»

ally

is

a

niu rou

cooking method used

involves slow cooking with plenty of soy sauce.

sauce but

J^tk

chili

The

radish,

toward the end of the cooking time, remains

}jL^

rl«iliohtfiil delightful

•

JU|

Sichuan,

is

not soy

left

to simmer by the entrance

customers.

and a few

stir-fried

advance and

If

you want to serve

dishes,

just reheat

it

it

in

when you want

instead of beef to delicious effect.

(I

is

added

clear and crisp,

tall,

In In

in

^irhiian*ic*» Sichuanese

glazed pots and

the hope of luring potential

this dish Sichuan-style,

has the advantage that you can

well as a stew, served perhaps simply with

the same

which

t^inrlor beef. h*»*af rontracf to tc\ the fh«» rich rirh and anri tender contrast

restaurants, stews like this are often put into

I'^f

in

In

bean paste, which gives the gravy a glorious chest-

nut color and a deep chile kick.

paste

over China that gener-

however, the main flavoring used to red-braise beef

iju

.

all

to eat.

The

dish also

with rice

make it in works very

mashed potato. Lamb can be used

have actually used Sichuanese

way to create new and

chili

bean

exciting versions of traditional

Western-style stews involving lamb and root vegetables. The chile taste makes

them even more warm and comforting.)

Serves 4 as a main dish with

232

rice,

6 with three or four other dishes

MEAT DISHES

pounds short

2 1/2-3

ribs

2 teaspoons dark soy sauce

or

other rich stewing beef a

I-

I

to 2-inch piece of fresh

ginger, unpeeied

I

and green

2 scallions, white

I

parts

I

tablespoons peanut oil 6 tablespoons Sichuanese chili bean paste quart beef stock 4 tablespoons Shaoxing rice wine or medium-dry sherry 3

teaspoon whole Sichuan pepper star anise

cao guo (see page 62) 1/3 pounds Asian white radish (daikon) or kohlrabi

salt

fresh coriander (cilantro) to

garnish

I

1

Blanch the beef

in

boiling

water for a minute or two

to the surface, then remove the meat and rinse is

I-

the

chili

oil in

salt

When

is

Cut the

scallions into 2

medium

heat.

about 30 seconds

or 3 sections.

When

until

the

it is

oil is

add

hot,

red and

boil,

skim

if

gently until the beef

necessary, and then turn is

beautifully

—

tender

ideal.

the beef

boiling

is

nearly ready, trim the radishes or kohlrabi and chop

match the

beef.

If

water to remove any sharpness. Add the vegetables to the

until just tender,

salt

if

them

you are using radishes, blanch the pieces

replenishing with stock or boiling water

son with

flavor.)

the stock, beef, wine, ginger, scallions, soy sauce, spices,

down and simmer

into chunks to in

Add

stir-fry for

to taste. Bring the liquid to a

the heat

hours

Cut the

a flat-bottomed pot over a

bean paste and

richly fragrant.

and

risen

tap. (This step

to 2-inch chunks. Crush the ginger slightly using the side of a

cleaver blade or a heavy object.

2 Heat the

scum has

until

under the

intended to remove the bloody juices and improve the

beef into

3

it

if

necessary. Continue to

turning up the heat to reduce the sauce

if

beef,

simmer

you wish. Sea-

necessary. Serve garnished with fresh coriander (cilantro).

233

land of plenty

SHREDDED BEEF WITH SWEET PEPPERS tian jiao niu rou si

This colorful stir-fry restaurants. The beef

a

is is

common

sweet bean paste adds an extra

pork instead of

dish in everyday Sichuanese

cooked quickly to keep

it

tender, and the

You can use

intensity of flavor.

beef, but in that case

it's

best to omit the sweet

bean paste.

1^

Serves 2 as a main dish with

4 with three other dishes

rice,

\^\jr\

Ml pound

lean beef (flank good) 1/2 a red bell pepper and 1/2 a green bell pepper 1/4 teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons Sichuanese sweet bean paste mixed with 2 teaspoons water peanut oil

steak

is

FOR THE MARINADE teaspoon salt Shaoxing rice wine or medium-dry sherry

1/2

2 teaspoons

1

Cut the beef

Add

2 Heat

FOR THE SAUCE 12 teaspoons light soy sauce 14 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon potato flour or 3/4 teaspoon cornstarch 3 tablespoons everyday stock (see page 3 8) or chicken stock I

1

1

1

against the grain into very fine slivers and place

I

match the

beef.

tablespoon of

Combine the sauce

oil in

pers and 1/4 teaspoon of

234

teaspoons cornstarch 2 teaspoons water 3

it

in

a bowl.

the marinade ingredients and mix well. Cut the peppers into long, thin

strips to

just

2 teaspoons potato flour or

a

salt

wok and

ingredients

in

a small bowl.

over a medium flame. Add the stir-fry for

about a minute,

cooked. Remove and set aside. Rinse out the wok.

until

bell

pep-

they are

MEAT DISHES

3

Add

2 teaspoons of

oil

to the beef and mix well.

4 Season the wok, then add

When

it

is

3

just beginning to

tablespoons of

oil

and heat over a high flame.

smoke, add the beef and

stir-fry briskly.

the meat strips have separated out, add the sweet bean paste and for about 10 seconds until the sauce

and mix

well.

is

hot and fragrant. Add the peppers

Immediately give the sauce a

for a few seconds

more

until

When stir-fry

stir

and add

it

to the wok. Stir

the sauce has thickened and then turn every-

thing out onto a serving plate.

235

m^am

poultry THE CHICKEN HAS A PLACE AT THE HEART OF CHINESE gastronomy. juices,

Not

only

is

meat enjoyed

its

in

countless dishes, but

its

natural

extracted by gentle stewing, are thought to possess the very essence of

is the embodiment of xian, that elusive, many ways the inspiration for the Chinese culinary arts (for a more detailed description of x/on, see page 28). This is why chicken, and chicken stock, are vital ingredients in so many of China's most celebrated dishes, particularly those made with "treasures from the mountains and the seas" (shan zhen hai wei). It is also why you'll find chicken added to dishes made with other meats, like the oxtail soup on page 326, where the

flavor For rich, dense chicken stock delicious, savory taste that

chicken

is

invisible

in

the

is

in

final

dish, but

its

juices

enhance and

refine the

coarser natural flavors of the beef.

The Chinese,

like

many other

ethnic groups, also regard chicken soup as a

tonic and a particularly important source of nourishment.

soups

—the most

x/on,

ens that are what

we would

refer to as "organically raised" and

nese cairVustic, earthy, farmyard chickens" provide the tender meat for of chicken

in

China

(tu j/).Younger,

stir-fried dishes. There

—the Sichuanese

specialty

gu ji), a black-skinned fowl with a froth of

finest chicken

fluffy

is

what the Chi-

are several notable breeds

the "black-boned chicken" {wu

white feathers. The ancestors of

among

have been bred

the Sichuan region since about the third century

cal

in

the earliest people to domesticate chickens, and they

chicken's poetic alter ego

bird that

was

a

chick-

male chickens usually

the Chinese were

The

236

The

—are made from mature female

the most nutritious

is

B.C.

the phoenix, a gorgeously plumed mythi-

symbol of the empress

in

imperial China.

The phoenix,

along with the emperor's symbol, the dragon,

a

is

common

decorative motif,

two creatures on the lacquered hors d'oeuvre and you dishes that are offered up at banquets in Sichuan. The phoenix lends its name so you know what to expect when you find to some chicken dishes still

see images of the

—

"phoenix claws" on a Chinese restaurant menu.

The duck

the other main cooking fowl

is

ing,

is

not thought to be as

is

highly prized. In Sichuanese

the duck

often used whole,

is

some

demand extravagant amounts als.

The

bought

Its

rarity in

home

its

of cooking

kitchens), cooking

shops and served

in

oil

duck

most famous duck

or the is

commonly

its

cook-

often

use of an left

recipes

oven (an

to the profession-

tea-smoked and roasted duck, are

people's homes.

Geese, pigeons, and quails are occasionally used the latter most

but

xian,

fragrance coaxed out by roasting or

of Sichuan's

finished dishes, however, such as in

not

is

it

flavor

deep-frying. Perhaps because

extreme

Sichuan, although

a special fragrance (xiang) that

used as widely as the chicken.

meat has

in

in

Sichuanese cooking

for their eggs.

CHICKEN RECIPES

GONG BAO (KUNG

PAO)

CHICKEN WITH PEANUTS gong boo

ji

This dish, also

known

tion of having

been labeled as

tural

Revolution.

It

as

is

ding

Kung Pao chicken, has the curious politically

named

after

a

incorrect during the Cullate

Qing Dynasty

nineteenth century) governor of Sichuan, Ding Baozhen, said to have particularly cial title.

say

T

it

No

was

one

a dish

enjoyed eating

can quite agree

on the

when he went out subjects;

still

it

gong boo was

details of

its

in

it in

a

(late

who

is

his offi-

origins:

Ding Baozhen brought with him from

province of Guizhou; others that he ate

distinc-

his

some home

modest restaurant

humble dress to observe the

real lives of his

others, rather implausibly, that his chef invented the

237

land of plenty

finely

chopped chicken

the truth of

origins,

its

dish because Ding its

Baozhen had bad teeth. Whatever

association with an imperial bureaucrat

to provoke the wrath of the Cultural Revolution "fast-fried

chicken cubes" (hong bao

chiles" (hu la

ji

ding) until

Gong Bao flesh,

chicken

its

is

ji

ding)

radicals,

and

the 1980s.

medley of chicken

beautiful to look at: a glorious chiles.

was renamed

or "chicken cubes with seared

political rehabilitation in

golden peanuts and bright red

it

was enough

The sauce

is

based on a

light

sweet-and-sour, pepped up with a deep chile spiciness and a trace of Sichuan

pepper that

make your

will

harmony, the chicken

in

lips tingle pleasantly.

small cubes and the scallion

plement the peanuts. The chicken should be culent; the

The

nuts are added

at the

very

ingredients are in

all

cut

in

short pieces to com-

just

cooked and wonderfully suc-

last

minute so they keep their

crispness.

Serves 2 as a main

Chinese meal

dist)

with a simple stir-fried vegetable

2 boneless chicken breasts,

I

with or without skin (about 2/3

pound

total)

3 cloves of garlic

equivalent

I

and an

amount

of fresh

ginger 5 scallions,

I

white parts only peanut oil

2 tablespoons

a generous handful of dried red chiles (at least

1

0),

preferably Sichuanese teaspoon whole Sichuan pepper 2/3 cup roasted unsalted peanuts 1

FOR THE MARINADE 1/2

teaspoon

salt

2 teaspoons light soy sauce

238

and

rice,

4 as part of a

three other dishes

v/ith

teaspoon Shaoxing rice wine or medium-dry sherry 1/2 teaspoons potato flour or 2 1/4 teaspoons cornstarch tablespoon water

FOR THE SAUCE teaspoons sugar 3/4 teaspoon potato flour or 1/8 teaspoons cornstarch teaspoon dark soy sauce teaspoon light soy sauce 3 teaspoons Chinkiang or black Chinese vinegar teaspoon sesame oil tablespoon chicken stock or water 3

I

I

I

I

I

POULTRY

1

Cut the chicken

1/2-inch strips and then cut

as evenly as possible into

these into small cubes. Place

in

a small

bowl and mix

in

the marinade ingre-

dients.

2 Peel and thinly

the garlic and ginger, and chop the scallions into

slice

chunks as long as their diameter (to match the chicken cubes). Snip the chiles in

half

many seeds 3

or into 2-inch sections. Wearing rubber gloves, discard as

as possible.

Combine the sauce

ingredients

in

a small

bowl

—

you can taste the sweet-sour base of the gong bao 4 Season the wok, then add 2 tablespoons of

When and

the

oil is

if

you dip your finger

in,

flavor.

and heat over a high flame.

oil

hot but not yet smoking, add the chiles and Sichuan pepper

stir-fry briefly until

they are crisp and the

oil is

care not to burn the spices (you can remove the

spicy and fragrant. Take

wok from

the heat

if

nec-

essary to prevent overheating).

5 Quickly add the chicken and fry over a high flame, stirring constantly. As

soon as the chicken cubes have separated, add the lions

and continue to

the meat

is

cooked through

6 Give the sauce

soon in,

stir-fry for a

a stir

(test

and add

as the sauce has

it

become

few minutes

one of the

ginger, garlic,

until

and

scal-

they are fragrant and

larger pieces to

to the wok, continuing to

make

stir

and

sure).

As them

toss.

thick and shiny, add the peanuts, stir

and serve.

VARIATIONS The same

Cashew dish,

dish can be

made with cubes

of pork, shrimp, or prawns.

nuts can be used instead of peanuts for a grander version of this

although peanuts are

more

traditional.

239

land of plenty

CHICKEN WITH CHILES la zi ji

The

first

spicy,

time you encounter

it

chiles that

make the

in

fact,

not particularly hot. The

it's

dish look so dramatic are used to give fra-

grance and a gentle spiciness to the cooking ally

appears terrifyingly

the cubes of chicken surrounded by improbable quantities

of blood-red chiles. But

--T^

dish,

this

oil

and are not usu-

eaten. Guests just pick out the delicious pieces of chicken

with their chopsticks, leaving the chiles and Sichuan peppercorns

on the serving

plate. The dish

is

a

cooks tend to use chicken on the bone, which breast meat, but piled high with

recipe

is

it

Chongqing is

more

specialty.

Sichuanese

intensely flavored than

little actual flesh on a dish most important thing to remember in this which must keep their glorious red color.

can be frustrating to find so chiles. The

meat and

not to burn the

chiles,

Serves 4 with two or three other dishes as part of a Chinese meal

peanut

2 boneless, skinless chicken

breasts (about 2/3 pound

FOR THE MARINADE Shaoxing rice

1

wine or medium-dry sherry teaspoon light soy sauce teaspoon dark soy sauce 1/4 teaspoon salt

I

OTHER INGREDIENTS small rice bowl

an equivalent amount of fresh peeled ginger, sliced tablespoon whole Sichuan

pepper 2 scallions, white parts only,

each cut into about

I

I

for deep-frying

2 cloves of garlic, sliced, and

total)

2 teaspoons

oil

3

sections salt to taste

filled

generously with dried red

a generous pinch of sugar 2 teaspoons sesame oil

chiles, preferably

Sichuanese (about 2 ounces)

I

Cut the chicken

into

I

-inch cubes and put

marinade ingredients and mix

240

them

well. Set aside for

into a small bowl.

30 minutes

if

Add

possible.

the

POULTRY

2 Wearing rubber gloves, snip the chiles

remove and discard 3 Heat the

and

oil

fry for

and a

little

4 Heat

4-5 minutes crispy

until

oil in

wok

a

until

the

hot).

Add

garlic

they are fragrant and just taking color.Then add

stir-fry until

wok from

10-20 seconds

stir-fry for

the stove for a few seconds

the chicken and scallions and

generous pinch of

fragrant

aside.

spicy and fragrant, taking great care not to burn the chiles

oil is

(remove the

the chicken

over a moderate flame. Add the

the chiles and the Sichuan peppercorns and

all

Add

the pieces are cooked through, golden-brovy^n,

on the outside. Drain well and set

tablespoons of

3

as possible.

for deep-frying to a very high temperature.

and ginger and

a

many seeds

as

with a pair of scissors and

half

in

oil. Finally,

stir in.

if

Season with

sugar. Stir well so that the chicken

remove from the

the

heat, stir in the

seems too

oil

salt

to taste and

coated with the

is

sesame

oil,

and serve.

CHICKEN WITH VINEGAR cu

liu ji

—^*1

The chicken

IW^

a pool of red

Jkfn

f'*esh

crunchiness of the celery. The sauce

y^m

^'^^

^

in this oil.

dish

deep, lingering is

spiciness usually

or tender lettuce stems:

Jftg^ "•

similar

beautifully

white and tender,

succulent flesh

Its

Sichuan the chicken

.

is

I

is

complemented by the is

gently vinegar-sour,

from the pickled

cool

keeps

oil,

chicken

—

it

soft

flavor.

based on one

department

inside before

left I

one of the you

tip

it

in this

initial fry-

dish

is

not to overcook the

larger pieces to

make sure there

is

onto the serving

dish. This recipe

is

saw demonstrated by chef Gong Xingde of the catering

at the Sichuan Provincial Business

Incidentally,

The

white batter, and

and delicate, ready to receive the delicious drap-

most important thing

do, however, check

no rawness

In

find celery a fine substitute, with its

crunchy freshness and subtle herby

ing of the sauce. The

chiles.

accompanied by bamboo shoots

ing of the chicken in a protective coating of egg in fairly

lolling in

many

of

my Chinese

and Services School.

friends associate vinegar with betrayal

in

241

land of plenty

love: "eating vinegar" {chi cu)

on or to be jealous

is

a

common

phrase that means to be cheated

in love.

Serves 4 with two or three other dishes

2 boneless, skinless chicken

1

breasts (about 2/3 pound)

I

FOR THE MARINADE 1

1

3

OTHER INGREDIENTS

teaspoons Shaoxing rice wine or medium-dry sherry 12 teaspoon salt 1/2

3 celery stalks

plenty of peanut

FOR THE BATTER

for

2 tablespoons pickled chili

2 tablespoons potato flour or

paste

tablespoons cornstarch

3

teaspoons

3

teaspoons

FOR THE SAUCE

finely

chopped

fresh ginger

teaspoons white sugar 2 teaspoons Chinkiang or black Chinese vinegar 1/4 teaspoon salt teaspoon Shaoxing rice wine or medium-dry sherry 1

oil

cooking

2 tablespoons egg white

3

teaspoon potato flour or 1/2 teaspoons cornstarch tablespoons chicken stock

1/2

finely

chopped

garlic

2 scallions, white

and green

parts, sliced into tiny rings

I

1

Cut the chicken breasts

as evenly as possible into 1/2-inch strips and then

diagonally into small lozenge shapes. Place

in

a small

bowl and add the

marinade ingredients. Set aside while you prepare the other ingredients. 2 Using a in

knife,

remove the

half lengthwise,

fibrous outer edge of the celery stalks, slice

them

and then chop into small lozenge shapes to match the

chicken pieces.

3

Mix the sauce ingredients together

in

a small bowl.

4 Add the batter ingredients to the chicken and mix well, stirring direction.

242

in

one

POULTRY

5 Heat

1/2

I

cups of peanut

oil

Add

over a medium flame to about 200°F.

the chicken, followed closely by the celery, and prod gently with a chop-

Keeping an eye on the

stick to separate the pieces.

shouldn't rise above about I75°F after the chicken

Remove immediately from the wok with oil. The chicken will still be half raw

excess

through at

6 Drain

Heat

off

this stage

most of the

you'll find

added,

stir

very gently

until

wok

resist the

off

temptation to cook

the wok, leaving behind a scant 2 tablespoons.

oil in

until

hot but not smoking.

for about 20-30 seconds

until

the

oil is

stir-fry for

Add

a rich,

the

chili

deep

red.

another 30 seconds

they are cooked and fragrant. Return the chicken and celery to

and

stir in quickly. Still

add to the wok. Add the everything

spoon and drain

a slotted

—

the finished dish less than succulent.

the ginger and garlic and continue to

or so the

or

over a medium flame

this

paste and stir-fry

Add

is

temperature, which

the pieces of chicken have separated and are just turning white.

until

it

oil

is

working

scallions, stir

swiftly, give

the sauce a

and

stir

or toss a few more times

until

well mixed and the sauce has thickened, and then turn onto a

serving dish. The chicken should be just cooked and very tender largest piece to

make sure

it's

—

test the

cooked through.

DRY-FRIED CHICKEN gan bian

The Sichuanese

,—

^1

ji

apply the local dry-frying

method to many

dif-

recipe, small

chunks of chicken become

flavorful; fresh

vegetables provide a nice,

ferent ingredients.

In this

delightfully toasty

and

crisp contrast to the meat. The dish has a deep, gentle chile hot-

ness and looks very appetizing with

its

can vary the vegetables as you please

chile-reddened

—

I've

oil.

seen Sichuanese

cooks use leeks on their own, or plenty of chopped green peppers (the little oil

and

salt,

You

bell

latter are best fried separately until tender, with a

and then added to the chicken at the end).

243

land of plenty

Serves 2 with one other dish and

rice,

4 with two or three other dishes

2 celery stalks

teaspoon whole Sichuan pepper 1/2 tablespoons Sichuan chili bean paste tablespoon Shaoxing rice wine or medium-dry sherry teaspoon dark soy sauce

I

pound chicken meat, preferably on the bone

I

(about 2 chicken breasts or 3-4 thighs)

I

about

I

whole scallions 1/4 cup peanut oil

3

I

6-8 dried chiles (about ounce)

1

Using a

them salt

knife,

remove the

salt

1/8

2 teaspoons

oil

fibrous outer bits from the celery stalks and cut

at a steep angle into

1/2-inch slices. Sprinkle with a

few pinches of

and set aside while you prepare the other ingredients.

2 Cut the chicken as evenly as possible into at a steep angle into slices to

match the

3 Season the wok, then add 1/4 cup of

the chicken and

much

of

its

quicker but

stir-fry

spicy.

-inch chunks.

and reheat

more extravagant with the chili

Cut the

until

bean paste and

a red-orange color. Splash

oil.)

this

it

it

has lost

by deep-frying

— rather

Turn the heat

stir-fry until

stir as in

scallions

smoking hot. Add

over a high flame for 4-5 minutes,

water content. (You can achieve

Add the

oil

I

celery.

oil

add the chiles and Sichuan pepper, and

the

sesame

releases

until

down

to medium,

they smell wonderfully its

fragrance and stains

the Shaoxing rice wine and

dark soy sauce and 1/4-1/2 teaspoon of

salt

stir in

the

to taste. Keep stirring over a

medium heat for 10-15 minutes, until the chicken is dry, toasty, and fragrant. Then add the vegetables and stir-fry for another minute or two until they are just tender, adding a little more salt to taste. Remove from the heat, stir in the

244

sesame

oil,

and serve.

POULTRY

CHICKEN

TAI BAI

tai bai

This dish

1

^yi^

who

Bai,

named

is

lived

Great Purity call

decadent

^''^

(tai

in

honor of the great Tang Dynasty poet

—

bai

name

also the

He was born

given to the star Westerners

northern China, but moved to Sichuan

in

In

one of

his

life,

spurned by the

he tried to enter, taking refuge

political circles

and poetry.

most famous works,

Li

Bai

wine

in

wrote of the

perils of traveling to Sichuan, that green, fertile basin ringed

forbidding mountains.

He

Li

the eighth century a.d. and was nicknamed

childhood. Later he led a wandering

his

in

j^^

Venus).

in

ji

by

described a path flanked by towering peaks, plunging

chasms, and thundering river torrents, with the strange cries of wild birds

emanating from the trees and the constant threat of snakes and

tigers.

He

fin-

ished with a warning:

The

City

of Brocade [Cliengdu]

may

But

it is

best to seek your home.

For

it is

easier to climb to Heaver)

be a pleasant place,

Thar) to take the Sichuar) road. I

Li

Bai,

gaze

into the west,

and

"The Sichuan Road," from Zong

sigh.

Shi, ed.. Selected

Poems from

the Tang Dynasty (Beijing:

Chinese

Literature Press, 1999)

These ing,

days, in the City of Brocade,

warming

dish, Li Bai's

you

will

often find the following sooth-

namesake. The golden chicken pieces, mixed with

the green parts of scallions and red pickled chiles,

orange

oil.

Tai bai chicken

is

not

not to burn the spices. The flavors

—

loll

make you are much gentler

difficult

to

in

a fragrant, spicy,

just have to take care if

you use Sichuanese

pickled chiles instead ofThai ones.

Serves 2 as a main dish with one vegetable and

rice,

4 with three other dishes

245

land of plenty

about

I

pound chicken

cup everyday stock (see page 3 8) or chicken stock tablespoon Shaoxing rice wine or medium-dry sherry 1/2 teaspoons dark soy sauce teaspoon whole Sichuan pepper 1/4 teaspoons sugar 3/4 teaspoon salt 2 pinches of ground white pepper to taste 1-2 teaspoons sesame oil

leg or

I

thigh meat, on or off the

bone cup peanut

1

I

1/2

oil

a small handful of dried red

I

chiles, preferably

Sichuanese, snipped

in half

I

(seeds discarded) 4 Sichuanese pickled chiles,

1

cut into 2 1/2-inch sections, or 6 Thai pickled chiles with I

teaspoon pickled

chili

paste 5 scallions, cut into 2 1/2-inch

sections, white

and green

parts separated

1

Chop

the chicken into

1/2-inch chunl<s (2-inch chunks

I

on the bone). Season the wok, then add flame

until just

until

it

is

smoking.

Add

half

1/2

cup of

the chicken and

oil

if

you are cutting

it

and heat over a high

one minute,

stir-fry for

white but not crisp or cooked through. Remove and set aside.

Repeat with the rest of the chicken. 2 Drain heat,

off

all

but about 3 tablespoons of

and when the

stir-fry until

oil

is

whites and

Return the

wok

to

medium

hot but not smoking, add the dried chiles and

you can smell their fragrance, taking great care not to

them burn. Then add the stir-fry until

oil.

the

oil

is

stir-fry for

pickled chiles and pickled

chili

paste

reddish and they smell good, too.

another 10-20 seconds

fragrance. (All this frying should be

until

Add

(if

let

using) and

the scallion

you can smell their

done over medium heat so the spices

don't burn.)

3

Add

the stock and the chicken and season with the Shaoxing rice wine,

dark soy sauce, Sichuan pepper, sugar,

salt,

and white pepper. Bring to a

and then simmer over gentle heat for about 20 minutes,

stirring

boil

from time

to time. As the stock dries out, remove the dried chiles and scallions with a pair of chopsticks

246

and discard them.

POULTRY

When

4

the stock has almost

greens and

scallion

cooked. Remove the

onto a serving

all

stir-fry for

evaporated, leaving just the spicy

another 30 seconds or

wok from

the heat,

stir in

so, until

the sesame

oil,

add the

they are just

and spoon

oil,

dish.

BRAISED CHICKEN WITH CHESTNUTS ban

>

li

shao

ji

As the Sichuanese summer fades and the damp winter

l>

^lV\^

in,

dors roast them

their shells

in

in

They wrap the roasted chestnuts

^

into baskets to keep

S^^.

nights

enormous wokfuls in

cloths and tuck

of charcoal.

them

them warm.The hot nuts are the perfect thing in a streetside teahouse where you stop

for an hour before lunch. Chestnuts have been cultivated since antiquity: the character for chestnut

(//)

in

Qing Dynasty gourmet Yuan Mei

left

and a few

in

the ancient

behind notes for

stewed with chestnuts; the following dish widely enjoyed

in

is

a

stir-fried dishes,

but

it

script,

Book

of Songs. The great

own

recipe for chicken

his

contemporary Sichuanese version

the chestnut season. Sichuanese people eat

and a simple vegetable side

China

appears on the Shang

Dynasty oracle bones, the earliest examples of the Chinese and they are also mentioned

is

snugly

to palliate your hunger

"^"^

that

draw

roasted chestnuts begin to appear on the streets. Itinerant ven-

it

with rice

can also be eaten Western-style, with potatoes

dish. The dish can

be made

in

advance and reheated.

Serves 4 as a main course, with one or two other dishes

I

1

-I 1/2

pounds chestnuts

whole chicken (about 4 pounds)

a 2-Inch piece of fresh ginger, unpeeled 2 scalllons, white and green parts

peanut

4 tablespoons Shaoxing rice

wine or medium-dry sherry 2 2/3 cups everyday stock (see

page

3

1

8) or chicken stock

4 teaspoons

brown sugar

4 teaspoons dark soy sauce salt to taste

oil

247

land of plenty

1

Slice off the

base of the chestnuts and blanch them

water for about 2

enough to handle, remove the slip off like

them

nninutes. Drain shells

gloves, others will defy

all

well,

plenty of boiling

in

and when they are cool

and skins as

far as possible

(some

will

gentle coaxings).

2 Using a cleaver, chop up the chicken, bones and

into small chunks.

all,

Crush

the ginger and scallions slightly with the side of a cleaver blade or a heavy object.

3 Season the wok, then add 3 tablespoons of

When

the

Remove with

utes, until they are golden.

the chicken pieces to the

browned. Drain in

oil

and heat over a high flame.

them for about 5 minspoon and set aside. Add

hot, add the chestnuts and stir-fry

oil is

off

some

wok

of the excess

the Shaoxing rice wine and

a slotted

and fry over a high heat

stir well.

oil

Add

at this stage

if

you wish. Splash

the ginger and scallions and fry

for about 30 seconds, until they are fragrant.Then slowly add

4 Bring the stock back to salt

to taste.

a boil

they are

until

the stock,

all

and add the sugar and dark soy sauce, with

Then turn the heat down and simmer

for 30 minutes, stirring

from time to time. 5

Add

the chestnuts, mix well, and continue to simmer

and pasty and the sary,

liquid

is

much reduced. Adjust the

until

they are moist

seasoning,

if

neces-

and serve.

STIR-FRIED CHICKEN chao

My

ji

HOTCHPOTCH

za

Sichuanese chef friends might be surprised to see

include the following recipe dish and I've never seen

cumstances

in

which

I

it

in

this

book

—

it's

not a fancy

on a restaurant menu. But the

learned to

make

it

me

are for

me

cir-

a per-

fect illustration of the resourcefulness of Sichuanese cooks,

and

248

it

tastes delicious too.

POULTRY

My

friend Feng Rui had invited

with two of

his friends,

the morning

we went

The

me

to spend a day cooking (and eating)

both former chefs of two of Chengdu's best hotels.

In

to the local street market to buy our raw ingredients.

chickens, of course,

were

still

clucking around

chose a fowl with a scarcely developed thumb, a

in

their pen. Feng Rui

sign that

it

was young and

it, and we took it home. The astonishing thing was that almost nothing of that bird was wasted. We ate the meat cold with a chili oil dressing (see page 55), the bones made the stock base of our winter melon soup, and all the innards went into the following dish, including intestines, heart, and blood. It was an enticing mix of

tender.The vendor slaughtered, plucked, and dressed

strong flavors and different textures,

all

set off by the crunchy celery and a

delicate assortment of spices.

The following

is

a recreation of the dish that uses only the readily avail-

able chicken livers.

Serves 4 with two or three other dishes (we enjoyed chicken,

oil

and a very simple steamed

head of celery (about 10

I

fish,

I

pound chicken

livers

Sichuanese pickled chiles or 6 Thai pickled chiles about tablespoon pickled young ginger, sliced or shredded peanut oil 3

I

FOR THE MARINADE I

I

teaspoon salt teaspoon Shaoxing rice wine or medium-dry sherry

Wash and remove

chili-

teaspoons cornstarch teaspoon water 3

salt

1/2

with twice-cooked pork,

2 teaspoons potato flour or

stalks)

1/3

it

as well as a soup to finish)

FOR THE SAUCE teaspoon salt teaspoon sugar a pinch of ground white or black pepper 3/4 teaspoon potato flour or 1/8 teaspoons cornstarch 3 tablespoons chicken stock or water 1/2 1/2

I

the fibrous outer layer of the celery, cut

it

into 3-inch

sections, and then slice these lengthwise into 1/2-inch sticks. Sprinkle the

249

land of plenty

sticks with a

few pinches of

salt,

mix

them

ers into 1/2-inch slices and place

ingredients and stir

together

in

well,

and set aside. Cut the chicken

in

a small bowl.

the marinade

one direction to combine. Mix the sauce ingredients

in

another small bowl.

2 Shake the celery dry

just before

you start cooking.

3 Season the wok, then add 4 tablespoons of until

Add

liv-

Add

smoking.

the chicken livers and

and heat over a high flame

oil

stir-fry.

When

the pieces have

separated, add the chiles and ginger and continue to stir-fry until they are fragrant and the chicken livers are nearly cooked.

and toss for a couple of minutes called "breaking the rawness,"

until

it

is

Add

hot but

the celery and

still

crunchy

stir

(this

is

duan sheng). Then add the sauce and con-

tinue to stir for another few seconds until

it

Spoon every-

has thickened.

thing into a large bowl and serve.

DUCK RECIPES Sometimes ducks are kets.

Do

mercifully

still

sold with their giblets, even

not throw these away. They can be brought to a

in

supermar-

and simmered

boil

gently with a piece of crushed ginger and perhaps a scallion or two, to a delicious

soup base or aromatic broth

and heart are also Chinese

delicacies,

pot as soon as they're cooked. dipped

in

a

mixture of

salt

When

and

—see

(/u shui I

always

lift

page

1

79).

The

make liver

mine out of the stock-

they've cooled, they are delicious just

and Sichuanese ground

chiles.

Of

course,

Sichuanese cooks make use of just about every part of the duck's body, as

witnessed by the that specializes

menu

in

of a restaurant called the

duck.

The Mousehole

offers

Mousehole {hao

dishes

zi

made from whole name

ducks, duck gizzards, duck intestines, duck blood, and duck tongues, to

but a few examples.

250

dong)

POULTRY

SICHUANESE ROAST DUCK si

chuan kao ya

Yjr%

Everyone has heard of Peking duck, but few

^""^

tered the following Sichuanese version, which has been sold on

^

J

*

have encoun-

will

\

the streets of Chengdu for about a century. Liu Xuezhi of the

I

Sichuan Institute of Higher Cuisine says the dish was developed,

more

like its

i^

T^^

method

roasting

^^

is

in

is

quite distinctive.

the emperor's kitchens.

similar to that used

ings in the stuffing are

'»5^

from the techniques used

illustrious Peking relative,

to roast suckling pigs

in

The Sichuanese

Beijing,

but the flavor-

pure Sichuan, and the serving method, too,

While Peking duck

is

sliced

and rolled up

in

pancakes with fresh, crisp vegetables and a sweet fermented sauce, Sichuan duck

dressed

in a rich,

ing juices.

gravy

in

a

deep bowl,

aromatic stock made from pork bones and the duck's roast-

The chunks

—the

chopped up on the bone and served

is

of duck are pulled out with chopsticks, dripping with

leftover juices can then be

mopped up

with a chunk of steamed

bread or recycled as the base for a nourishing noodle soup.

One

day as

was walking

I

in

the old Manchu quarter of Chengdu, explor-

ing the tiny alleys flanked by sprawling

crowd of people stall

in

a bustling

market

courtyard houses,

street. They

were

lining

to buy roast duck, fresh from the oven and piping hot. A

came across

I

a

up around a tiny

row

of steaming,

gleaming red-brown ducks hung from the eaves of the open shop-front, and the shopkeeper

lifted

slab of tree trunk

them down one by one. He chopped them

spooned over some gravy from salt,

pepper, and sesame

and Mr. Liu talked

neatly

on

a

and put the pieces into the customers' bowls. He then

me

oil.

a

simmering pot and sprinkled over a

Later that afternoon,

we

fell

little

into conversation,

through the entire second roasting.

Mr. Liu stuffs his ducks with salty preserved vegetables, pickled chiles, ginger, scallions,

fermented black beans, and Shaoxing

few spices selected according to water to tighten their

skins,

his

rice wine, with

mood. They are then scalded

smeared with

a malt sugar syrup,

perhaps a in

boiling

and hung up

in

The ducks are roasted in a special clay oven, where they hang over the smoldering embers of Asian white oak logs {qing gang shu). As they roast, their fragrant juices drip into earthenware pots

the open air to dry for a few hours.

arranged beneath them.

The aromatic broth

is

based on pork bone stock, augmented by the

deli-

251

land of plenty

cious duck-roasting juices and great handfuls of dried spices. boiled up every day to keep

clean. Fresh spices are

it

the flavor just gets better and better as time goes

The duck

stuffing also acts

it,

leave

then scald, glaze, and air-dry

It is

strained and

as required, and

by.

as a marinade, so the flavor of the

improves with time. The best way to make day before you eat

added

this recipe

is

meat

to stuff the duck the

it

to marinate

it

the following day. You can then roast

the refrigerator overnight, and

in

it in

time

for dinner. If

you want to take

hours. You

will

need

a shortcut, just leave

a couple of

meat hooks to

it

to marinate for a couple of

air-dry the duck.

Serves 4 with two or three other dishes and rice 1

duck (4-5 pounds), with giblets

sesame oil FOR THE STUFFING a 2-inch piece of fresh ginger, unpeeied 2 scallions, white and green

tablespoons Chinkiang or black Chinese vinegar 2 tablespoons water 3

FOR THE AROMATIC GRAVY a

tablespoon fermented black beans 3 tablespoons Sichuanese ya cai (page 70) orTianjin preserved vegetable 3 tablespoons Sichuanese pickled chili paste or chili bean paste tablespoon Shaoxing rice wine or medium-dry sherry 2 teaspoons whole Sichuan

I

252

scallion,

white and green

parts

teaspoon dark soy sauce teaspoon whole Sichuan

1/2-3/4

I

pepper

AND SOME OR ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SPICES I

Star anise

I

piece of cassia bark or a

cinnamon

1

pepper 1/2-1 teaspoon salt FOR THE GLAZE 3 tablespoons honey

1/2-inch piece of fresh

ginger, unpeeied

parts I

I

I

stick

cao guo (see page 62), optional

1

teaspoon fennel seeds

powdery heads pinched off and discarded

2 cloves, their

I

slice of dried ginger, optional

POULTRY

1

Remove

Make the

the giblets from the duck and set aside.

stuffing:

crush

the ginger and scallions slightly with the side of a cleaver blade or a heavy

Mash the black beans with your

object.

fingers or a spoon.

Add

other stuffing ingredients. Push the stuffing into the duck's inner

over the

bamboo

flap of skin at

the neck end, and

fix

with one or

it

the

all

cavity, fold

two metal or

skewers. Close the other end of the duck with another skewer. Let

the duck marinate

in

the refrigerator for a couple of hours or overnight.

2 Make the gravy: crush the ginger and scallion blade or a heavy object. Place the giblets

in

with the side of a cleaver

slightly

a saucepan with about a quart of

water. Bring to a boil, skim off any scum, and then add the ginger, scallion, soy sauce, and spices. Return to a boil, then turn the heat tly

3

down and simmer

for at least 2 hours. Replenish the liquid with boiling

water

if

When

the gravy

When

the duck has been marinated, bring a large pot of water to a

Place the duck

is

in

rich-tasting, set

it

aside to reheat

and pour over

a sieve

the skin contract as you do

this.

all

when

gen-

necessary.

required.

the boiling water

—

you

boil.

will

see

For best results, repeat with another pot

of boiling water.Then dry the duck's skin with paper towels.

4 Heat the glaze ingredients pastry brush to brush

two (I

into the

it

in

honey has

a pan until the

generously

all

it

up

hang mine outside a north-facing window).

you can add subsequent

Allow the duck to dry for

in

a cool place to air-dry

When

the

Fill

about

down on

1/2 inch of water.

a roasting rack set in the pan. Place in the it

halfway through.

heat up to 400°F and roast for another 15 minutes or so,

brown and

6 Skim as much

crisp.

Remove from

fat as possible

the oven and

from the roasting

stuffing

Reheat the gravy, seasoning with

Finally,

until

turn the

the skin

is

let sit

for 10 minutes.

juices in the

bottom of the

pan, and then add the juices to the gravy. Unpin

add the remains of the

coating of

layers for an even glossier finish.

a roasting pan with

oven and roast for about an hour, turning

beautifully

first

at least 6 hours, until the skin feels papery.

5 Preheat an oven to 350°F. Place the duck breast side

use a

over the duck. Stick a meat hook or

neck end of the duck and hang

glaze has dried,

liquefied. Then

one end of the duck and

and any more juices to the gravy pan.

salt

and pepper to

taste.

253

land of plenty

7 To serve the duck, either chop Chinese-style, and serve

it

in

a

it

into pieces

on the bone with a

deep dish with a

and the strained gravy poured over, or carve

it

tiny splash of

cleaver,

sesame

oil

into slices and serve with

the gravy served separately.

FRAGRANT AND CRISPY DUCK xiang su quart ya

^

Sichuanese crispy duck has become de rigueur rants abroad.

in

Chinese restau-

tender and succulent, the skin

is

serve

it

like

but

in

Sichuan

eral stages, but in

it is it's

in

the

Peking duck, with Mandarin pancakes, hoisin

sauce, and strips of crunchy vegetables

it

vv*J

flesh

marveiously crisp and golden. Most Chinese restaurants

West

^

The duck

usually served

not

on

its

like

to follow.

difficult

leek and cucumber,

own. The recipe has sevIf

you do wish to serve

restaurant style, you can buy frozen Mandarin pancakes and

hoisin sauce

in

most Chinese food shops.

Serves 4

duck (4-5 pounds) FOR THE MARINADE I

I

teaspoons salt teaspoon whole Sichuan pepper piece of cassia bark or a

1

star anise

3 I

cinnamon

stick

powdery heads pinched off and discarded 1/2 teaspoon fennel seeds 1/2 of a cao guo (see page 62)

2 cloves, their

254

1-2 slices dried "sand ginger"

(see page 62) tablespoons Shaoxing rice wine or medium-dry sherry 1/2-inch piece of fresh a ginger, unpeeled 2 scallions, white and green 3

I

parts

OTHER INGREDIENTS plenty of peanut

oil

for deep-

frying I

tablespoon sesame

oil

POULTRY

1

Roughly crush the spices with a mortar and pestle. Rub the duck inside

and out, with the

will fit into

into a

salt,

spices,

your steamer. Roughly

and wine. Put

cool place for at least

in

it

into a large

bowl that

the ginger and tear the scallions

slice

few sections. Put some of the ginger and

the duck and place the rest around

it

scallions into the cavity of

the bowl. Leave to marinate

until

cool and dry out

I

3

Remove inside

4 Heat

it

is

completely tender.

Remove from the

hour

heat and

let

and out, with paper towels.

oil

You

for deep-frying to 325-350°F. If

you are using

a

will

need enough

wok, make sure

it

oil

to at least

sits

absolutely

on the burner of your stove.

and golden brown

remove

it

from the

with the sesame pile

I

the ginger and scallions from the cavity and pat the duck dry,

5 Carefully lower the duck into the deep-frying crisp

a

slightly.

half-submerge the duck. stable

in

hour, preferably several or overnight.

2 Put the duck into a steamer and steam over a high flame for about

and 30 minutes,

over,

all

them

—about

oil,

oil. If

drain

oil

and fry

until

10 minutes for each side. When well,

it

and then brush

it

the skin it is

sparingly

all

is

ready,

over

you wish, you can cut the duck into small pieces and

up, breast pieces

on

top, in

something resembling the

original

shape of the duck. Otherwise, set the whole duck on a big serving platter

and

let

your guests serve themselves from

it

with their chopsticks. The

duck should be served piping hot.

255

land of plenty

WILD DUCK BRAISED WITH KONNYAKU "BEAN CURD" mo Konnyaku yam, known cialty.

yu shao ya

mo

as

yu

This pale root vegetable

is

Chinese,

in

method, and

j^t"

dried and ground to a fine flour

its jelly-like

texture,

is

why

to as konnyaku "bean curd"). Konnyaku kets of

'i:#

xj

from

v^^ \%^

it

is

and dried beans.

sold

in all

the mar-

made why it is

jellies

has a strong odor, which

It

jelly (this

sometimes referred

jelly is

Chengdu, alongside the bean curd and other

rice

is

usually blanched before cooking. In

the following dish, long strips of konnyaku

to a rich, spicy duck stew.

cer.

a Sichuanese spe-

before being boiled up with water and set into a kind of

j^

dishes, and

is

it is

thought to be of value

It's

in

jelly

are added

one of the most famous Sichuanese

treating

Sichuanese cooks use ordinary ducks.

I've

many

diseases, including can-

used mallard because

it

is

fla-

vorsome and seems to me in keeping with the exotic konnyaku, although Sichuanese people would not appreciate the gamey flavor of a hung bird. The konnyaku isn't easy to find, but it is sold in packages in some Japanese food shops.

Serves 2 as a main dish, 4 with three other dishes

I

wild mallard or small duck

1/3-1 1/2 pounds) (about cup konnyaku yam jelly 1/2 cup peanut oil 3-4 tablespoons Sichuanese chili bean paste 1/8 teaspoon whole Sichuan I

I

1/2

pepper 3

cups everyday stock (see page 3 8) or chicken stock tablespoon pickled or fresh ginger, peeled and sliced 1

I

256

tablespoon Shaoxing rice wine or medium-dry sherry teaspoon dark soy sauce teaspoon light soy sauce 2-3 baby leeks or tender, leafy I

I

I

leeks

and pepper to taste 4 teaspoons potato flour mixed with 2-3 tablespoons cold water, or 6 teaspoons of cornstarch mixed with 3-4 tablespoons cold water salt

1

1

.

Sichuanese-style steamed fish (before cooking),

p.

267

1

2.

Dry-fried green beans,

p.

289

13.

Pock-marked Mother Chen's bean curd,

p. 3 13

y

tSiBpi^

14.

Noodle dishes (clockwise from top

noodles with chicken noodles,

p.

9

1

;

slivers, p.

left):

Mr. Xie's sea-flavor noodles,

Xie Laoban's dan dan noodles,

p.

Spicy cold

95;Yibin "kindling"

89

p.

93;

15.

Dumplings

(left

to right,

"Long" wonton dumplings,

nous p.

I

rice dumplings, p.

14; Pot-sticker

1

p.

Leaf-wrapped

07; "Glassy"

sesame

p.

top):

gluti-

steamed dumplings,

dumplings with chicken stock,

"Zhong" crescent dumplings, rice balls with

row by row from 104;

p.

I

12;

100; Mr. Lai's glutinous

stuffing, p.

97

16.

Tu cha,

aYunnanese tea popular

tea (right), pp. 77-79

in

Chongqing

(left),

and Chengdu jasmine blossom

1

7.

Hotpot dipping ingredients

top): Air-dried sausage, sprouts.

rooms,

to

right,

row by row from root,

Soybean

Smoked bacon. Oyster mushEnoki mushrooms, pp. 350-5

Smoked bean

Scallions,

(left

Winter melon, Lotus

curd,

1

8.

Spicy hotpot broth,

p.

348

POULTRY

1

Cut the duck, on the bone, konnyaku

2 Bring for

jelly

pot of

a

about 2 inches by

into chunks

lightly salted

water to

Cut the

and blanch the konnyaku pieces

a boil

minute. Place them into a bowlful of hot,

I

inch.

I

into strips of a similar size.

lightly salted

water and set

aside.

3 Season the wok, then add 1/4 cup of

Add

smoking.

the duck and

all

stir-fry

brown and

until

the pieces have begun to

and set aside. Rinse and dry the wok.

medium

Pour

stir-fry for In

oil is

hot,

add the

20-30 seconds,

spoon (they have

chile

cup of

1/4

the

oil

is

red and richly fra-

Skim the

boil.

over a

oil

bean paste and the Sichuan

chili

until

the stock and bring to a fast

and remove the solid pieces of

Remove from the

smell delicious.

to the stove and heat another

flame. When the

pepper and grant.

wok

until

over a high flame for 4-5 minutes,

wok

4 Return the

and heat over a high flame

oil

liquid

if

necessary

and Sichuan pepper with a perforated

lent their flavors to the oil

and stock and can

now

be

dis-

carded). Add the duck, ginger, Shaoxing rice wine, and soy sauces. Return to a boil

and then turn the heat down and simmer, covered,

tender.

Most Sichuanese cooks would

you can leave

it

longer

if

you wish

—

until

the duck

is

it cook for 30-40 minutes, but make sure enough stock remains

let

just

to nearly cover the duck. You can top up the liquid with stock or water

if

necessary.

5

When

the duck

is

konnyaku

ready, add the soaked

and then simmer gently for another 5-10 minutes

strips, bring until

absorbed some of the flavors of the sauce.

Do simmer

konnyaku can become rubbery and "old"

(lao)

konnyaku

is

if

boil,

the konnyaku has it

very gently

—the

overcooked. While the

simmering, cut the baby leeks into 2-inch sections.

6 Add the leeks to the sauce and simmer for another minute or so are just tender. Season with salt or pepper

if

enough potato flour or cornstarch mixture to like

to a

consistency

—add

it

in

thickens, so you don't add

necessary.

until

they

add

just

Finally,

give the sauce a nice gravy-

a couple of stages, stirring briskly as the liquid

more than you

need. Serve.

257

JH

fish BECAUSE SICHUAN

A LANDLOCKED PROVINCE, FAR FROM

IS

the Chinese coast, saltwater

scarcely feature

fish

only exceptions are dried seafood,

and sea cucumber. Freshwater cuisine, as the region

thunders

down from

is

fish,

like

in its

traditional

cooking.The

more

exotic squid

mussels, and the

however, are an important part of the

local

threaded by rivers and streams. The Yangtze River

the Tibetan plateau, circles Chongqing, and then courses

on toward the wetlands of the east coast and Shanghai. The Brocade River Jiang),

named because

Sichuan's

crystalline waters, flows

Over the

in

city;

in

its

at Leshan.

The poet Zuo

its fish.

capital (the

the

were once washed

centuries, the Sichuan region has developed a reputation for the

excellence of

Shu

silks

through Chengdu. The Min River swirls around the

Buddha

feet of the giant stone

famous woven

{jin

Si, in

his

third-century ode to the ancient

ancestor of today's Chengdu), recalled "tasting precious

centuries

later,

the Tang poet

Du

Fu said the local

fish

fish"

were

"a

pleasure to be seized." There are several notable local breeds, most famously

the rock carp {yan

//),

the ya yu carp, the jiang tuan catfish, the

shi

pa yu

catfish,

and the Yangtze sturgeon {chang jiang xun). Sichuanese cooks also use more

common

fish like

catfish (nian yu),

loaches

and

is

(n/

The

258

rice

(//

yu), grass

carp {cao yu), the Chinese perch (ji yu),

(gui yu),

as well as eels {huang shan) and

q;u).The crucian carp has a particularly delicious {xian mei) flavor

often used to

for the Latin

or

carp

and crucian carp

make milky-white soups and

names of these

fish.)

finest flavors obviously

paddy

fields

stocks. (See the Glossary

are darker

come from in

wild river

fish:

those bred

in

lakes

color, their flavors tainted by the muddy,

still

waters

which they

in

when people bathed

with

fish

and other

cormorant

in

wildlife.

remember the

residents

When

was

I

fitted

Chengdu,

a student in full

from

most of the

own

his

once see

a

with tight collars so they couldn't swallow the

man was

supply. But this

wildlife in the

did

I

of great black birds. His long-

they caught, but would give them up to the fisherman

fishes

not-so-distant

the Brocade River and the clear waters were alive

fisher drifting by with his punt

necked cormorants were fish

Chengdu

live.

days

Brocade

River,

in

exchange for

a rarity: pollution has

and those

in

tiny

wiped out

search of unfarmed

fish

have to head west to the edges of the Tibetan plateau. Even there, stocks are low, and several breeds of fish are In

Sichuan,

fish

are

still

now

officially

protected species.

leaping, living things

when you buy them

market, and they are always eaten fresh. Many restaurants gling fish

to the table before they cook

Sichuanese

fish

ginger: this

is

it

as

will

bring a wrig-

a guarantee

of freshness.

cooking makes much use of pickled

chiles, garlic, scallions,

and

the origin of the famous "fish-fragrant" style of flavoring. But

some Sichuanese

dishes

fish

are

mild

and

delicate,

and

there's

also

Sichuanese version of that universal Chinese treat, sweet-and-sour crispy I

the

in

a

fish.

have suggested using carp or sea bass for most of these dishes, but the same

cooking methods can be used for many other fresh- and saltwater restaurants

in

fish.

Fancy

Sichuan are increasingly using traditional cooking methods to

prepare seafood air-freighted

in

from the coast.

FISH BRAISED IN CHILI

BEAN SAUCE

dou ban xian yu

•*

This recipe

k>^

Sichuanese

is one of my personal favorites and is typical of home cooking.The fish is clothed in a rich, ruddy sauce

scattered with scallion greens and

The

flavor

is

little

bean paste

vinegar at the end is

Sichuanese cuisine and

J^ t%\\

Chengdu. Legend has ^^^'

'"^^

flecks of garlic

dominated by the intensity of the

the addition of a Chili

little

it

chili

lifts it

and ginger.

bean paste, but

and makes

it

sing.

one of the indispensable seasonings is

in

the specialty of Pixian county, near

that the secret of this delicious flavoring

^° many other wonderful recipes, discovered through a

happy accident. According to the famous Pixian

Chili

Bean Paste

259

land of plenty

in the seventeenth century an immigrant named way to Sichuan with a small supply of fava beans to eat on the road. When a spate of wet weather mildewed his beans, he couldn't bear to throw them away, so he let them dry out a bit and then ate them with a few fresh chiles. The beans were unexpectedly tasty, so when he settled down he continued to ferment his beans and eat them in a similar way. In 1804, one of Mr. Chen's descendants set up a workshop in Pixian to produce paste according to what had by then become the family recipe, but on a larger scale. This, they say, was the origin of today's Pixian Chili Bean Paste Factory.

Factory, the story goes that

Chen was making

Mr.

These

his

days, the beans are left to

ferment

in

a vat of salty

months. They are then mixed with salted red chiles and

eral

water for sevleft in

vats in a

courtyard for anything from six months to three years to continue their mentation.

bake

in

On

sunny days, the

staff

lifts

the

lids

the sun, and on clear nights they expose

stirred regularly for an even

fer-

of the vats to let the paste it

to the dew.

exposure to the elements, and

The paste

as time

goes by

is it

darkens and becomes soft and fragrant. In

the Pixian Chili Bean Paste Factory

but one part of the factory courtyard

some is

still

of the paste

is

mass-produced,

devoted to making the paste

according to the traditional method. Here, twelve hundred large earthenware pots, each with

its

own

these pots, the factory's least

two

they

say,

spirit of

years, until

it is

conical finest,

bamboo is

hat, are neatly lined up.

The paste

in

turned by hand and tended carefully for at

a deep, purplish

brown. Through

this special process,

the paste absorbs the essences of the universe and breathes

in

the

the Sichuan earth.

Serves 2 as a main course, 4 with ttiree other dishes

I

carp, trout, or sea bass

weighing about 11/2 pounds, cleaned, with head and tail still attached peanut oil

FOR THE MARINADE teaspoon salt 1-2 tablespoons Shaoxing rice wine or medium-dry sherry

for the sauce ^ tablespoons Sichuanese

'

'

tablespoon finely chopped fresh ginger tablespoon finely chopped garlic

3/4

260

chill

bean paste

'

cup everyday stock (see page 3 8) or chicken stock

1/3

1

FISH

teaspoon white sugar 1-2 teaspoons light soy sauce 1/4 teaspoon cornstarch dissolved in tablespoon cold water

teaspoon Chinkiang or black Chinese vinegar scallions, green parts only,

1/2

I

3

I

finely sliced

I

1

Use

or sharp knife to make 4 or 5 shallow diagonal cuts into each

a cleaver

side of the fish, and to pierce juices).

Rub the

fish inside

leave to marinate while

Dry the

you have the

is

up the

crisp oil

wok

hot, add the

releases

(this

and out with the

1/3

cup of

oil

with paper towels and fry

fish

3 Return the

head

salt

more flavorsome

and Shaoxing

rice

wine and

until

smoking.

you assemble the other ingredients.

2 Season the wok, then heat

enough to

its

skin.

(The

fish

over a high flame it

briefly

on each

side, just long

can be briefly deep-fried instead

if

handy.) Remove and set aside. Rinse and dry the wok.

to a

medium flame with 4 tablespoons

bean paste and

chili

red and smells delicious.

20 seconds or so

until

Add

stir-fry for

of fresh

20-30 seconds

the ginger and garlic and

oil.

When

the

until

oil is

another

stir-fry for

you can smell their fragrance. Then pour

it

in all

the

stock, turn up the heat, and bring the liquid to a boil. Season to taste with

the sugar and soy sauce.

4 Gently place the

fish into

the

wok

and spoon some sauce over

heat down, cover, and simmer for 8-10 minutes until the has absorbed

some

When

the

fish

is

some more

waiting

it.

Turn the

cooked and

done, gently transfer

it

sauce.

stir a

Add the cornthickens. Add the vine-

to a serving dish.

starch mixture to the sauce and stir briefly until

gar and scallions,

is

of the flavors of the sauce. Turn the fish once during

the cooking time, spooning over

5

fish

it

couple of times, and then pour the sauce over the

fish.

NOTE A common

Sichuanese practice

after the fish

is

eaten, add

is

to return any leftover sauce to the

some bean

curd, and continue the meal. To

cut a cake of bean curd into thick slices or cubes,

simmer

it

do

wok this,

very gently

in

261

land of plenty

water for 5 minutes or

lightly salted

mer

so,

and add to the reheated sauce. Sim-

for a few minutes until the bean curd has absorbed

some

of the flavors,

and serve.

SOUPWITH PICKLED GREENS

FISH

suan cai yu

^ ^

Suan

cai yu

is

a

new Sichuanese

dish with a traditional flavor.

supposedly a 1980s innovation that became

^

,J}f-'

Chongqing, and

later in

was created by

a

side; others,

^&

more

Chengdu,

all

the 1990s.

in

the rage

Some

in

is

urban

say the dish

modest restaurant

in

romantically, that

was invented by the wife of

who

an elderly fisherman

it

the Chongqing country-

dropped her husband's

accidentally

catch into a simmering soup of pickled greens. Whichever,

ir»^*

It

it's

a

wonderful, hearty dish and terribly easy to make.

Grass carp

is

the favored

fish,

although sea bass works beautifully, too. The

mustard greens, which the Sichuanese jars in

whole long green

They look

pull

leaves, give the

lovely too, floating in the

out of their earthenware pickling

soup

a delicately

pieces of red chile adding a spot of vibrant color. give the final

soup

a

peppery

zing,

at the

off.

6-8

final

and chiles

huge

a

it

will

cooking stage are given fish in

an immense

—the following version

is

on

a

2 teaspoons Shaoxing rice

wine or medium-dry sherry

3/4 pounds),

intact salt

chile

end of a Chinese meal, 4 as a Western-style starter

cleaned, v/ith head and

262

oil

whole carp or sea bass I

and

scale.

at the

(about

ginger, garlic,

the few

which can make the soup so hot

end of the recipe. The Sichuanese often serve

more modest

I

oil,

Instructions for this optional

bowlful of soup, glistening with

Serves

The

salty flavor.

fish flesh,

but local people often enhance this by adding a

scattering of spices and hot

blow your head

sour and

soup with the pale

and pepper to taste

tall

6 cups everyday stock (see

page

3

1

8) or chicken stock

a 2-inch piece of fresh ginger

FISH

scallion, green part only peanut oil 3 teaspoons cornstarch tablespoon egg white

2 cloves of garlic

I

cup pickled mustard greens 2 Sichuanese pickled chiles or 5 Thai pickled chiles 1/2

1

I

Using a cleaver or other sharp knife, carefully cut away the flesh from each

make 2 fillets. Starting at the tail ends, cut the fillets at an a bit more than 1/4 inch thick, each with a piece of skin.

side of the fish to

angle into slices Place

in

bowl and sprinkle with

a

salt

and 2 teaspoons Shaoxing rice wine.

Leave to marinate while you prepare the other ingredients.

2 Pierce the its

a

3

juices.

head with a whack of the cleaver or

fish

Chop

the

few chunks. Set

sharp knife to release

a

from the backbone, and then cut the backbone into

tail

aside.

Bring the stock to a boil.

4 Peel and

the ginger and

slice

match the

into slices to at an angle

—

fish.

garlic.

and chiles and

oil in

stir-fry for

the pickled greens at an angle

Sichuanese pickled chiles should also be sliced

tiny Thai chilies are best

5 Heat 2 tablespoons of

Chop

a

wok

used whole. Finely

over

a high flame.

10-20 seconds

until

slice

Add

the ginger,

they are fragrant.

pickled greens and stir-fry for another 30 seconds or so.

return to a vigorous Fast boil for

6

When

7

When

and

down

(a

is

stir in

the soup

you wish to

and then throw

the

fish

head,

Add

the

Add

the stock,

tail,

and bones.

is

nearly ready, add the cornstarch and egg white to the

one direction to coat them.

ready,

Chinese

remove and

discard the fish head,

home cook would

to a simmer, season with

fish slices

in

garlic,

5-10 minutes.

the stock

fish slices

boil,

the scallion.

salt

often leave

and pepper to

separately so they don't stick together

pour the soup

them

taste,

When

tail,

in).

and bones

if

Turn the heat

and drop

in all

the

they are just cooked,

into a serving bowl. Sprinkle with scallion slices

and serve.

263

land of plenty

OPTIONAL EXTRA STAGE FOR CHILE FIENDS Before you start cooking the

1

fish

Take a handful of dried chiles (8-10

make

chiles)

the following preparations:

and 2 teaspoons of Sichuan pep-

percorns. Using rubber gloves, snip the chiles

in

seeds as possible. Heat 3 tablespoons of

a

until

hot but not yet smoking.

(take care not to burn them).

slotted

When them

Add

oil in

half

wok

and discard as many over a medium flame

the chiles and Sichuan peppercorns and

they are fragrant and the chiles are just beginning to brown

stir-fry until

2

soup,

Then immediately remove the

spoon and set them aside to

spices with a

cool.

the spices are cool, transfer them onto a cutting board and chop

with a gentle rocking motion, using a cleaver taken

finely

in

both

hands or a two-handled chopper. 3

When

the

spoons of

soup has been cooked and poured into the serving bowl,

fish

swiftly rinse

out the

oil

the

in

wok wok

Then heat another 3-4 tablesmoking. Sprinkle the chopped chiles and

and dry until

it

well.

peppercorns over the soup and drizzle with the hot dramatically. You can finish with the scallion slices

if

oil,

which

will sizzle

you wish.

SWEET-AND-SOUR CRISPY FISH tang cu cui pi yu

a real party piece

This dish

is

draped

a fragrant

in

nish of brilliant red and green.

and

is

cooks

—

a whole, delectably crunchy fish

sweet-and-sour sauce, scattered with a garIt's

a popular

banquet dish

in

Sichuan

often the centerpiece of a dinner out with friends. Sichuanese it with grass carp, but I've successfully made more readily available sea bass. The dish looks when a whole fish is used, but to do this you must

will usually

make

the dish with the

most splendid have a If

^ *

264

*>^

wok

or a deep-fryer large enough to immerse

this isn't possible, cut the fish in half

it

completely.

and reassemble

it

on the

serving plate, or use large boneless chunks of firm, white-fleshed

fish

(these can be simply dusted with dry potato flour or cornstarch).

FISH

Do make may become

sure you deep-fry the

fish

twice according to the recipe, or

crisp and golden before the flesh

is

it

cooked through.

Serves 2 as a main dish with rice and a salad, 4 with two or three other dishes

I

carp or sea bass

(

FOR THE STARCH COATING

3/4

I

cup cornstarch, with a little extra on hand

3/4

pounds), gutted and cleaned, with head and

tail

OTHER INGREDIENTS

intact

plenty of peanut

oil

3

for deep-

teaspoons

frying

FOR THE MARINADE

3

teaspoons

tablespoon Shaoxing rice wine or medium-dry sherry 3/4 teaspoon salt 2 scallions, white and green

and green parts separated cups everyday stock (see page 3 8) or chicken stock 3 tablespoons Chinkiang or black Chinese vinegar 2 teaspoons sesame oil

parts

1

FOR THE GARNISH 2 scallions, white and green

parts cut into fine slivers,

or a few sprigs of fresh coriander (cilantro) 3 Sichuanese pickled chiles or a 1/4 of a red bell pepper,

1

you are using a whole

fish, oil

a sharp knife or cleaver, cut

1/2

1

FOR THE SAUCE

to allow the deep-frying

finely slivered

you must make several deep cuts into the

to penetrate

down

it:

lay

itself.

When

the

fish

on

its

flesh

side and, using

into the thickest part of the fish near the

backbone, about 2 inches from the base of the to the backbone

chopped

parts, finely sliced, white

1

tablespoon light soy sauce 4 1/2 tablespoons sugar 2 teaspoons Shaoxing rice wine or medium-dry sherry 1/4 teaspoon salt 4 teaspoons cornstarch 3 tablespoons cold everyday stock (see page 3 8) or chicken stock

finely

4 scallions, white and green

a 2-inch piece of fresh ginger, unpeeled

If

chopped

fresh ginger

1

I

finely

fresh garlic

fish

head and at right angles

the knife touches the bones of the spine,

swivel the blade inside the flesh to face the head and continue cutting paral-

265

land of plenty

lei

to the backbone and toward the head for about another

This

create a thick flap of

will

side of the

fish,

(When you should

flaps

emerge. Trim the

rub

if

tail

by

fish

further, similar cuts at 2-inch

and then repeat on the other

to the spine and back toward the head.

you hold the

hang outward

all

crack the head of the

2 Holding the

down

again cutting

have finished,

Make

tail flesh,

fish flesh.

you reach the thinner

intervals until

into a tidy shape

its tail,

splash

it

down

upside

by

its

tail,

the

Use the back corner of the cleaver to

slightly.)

will

allow

flavors to

its

desired.

if

with the Shaoxing rice wine and then

over, including inside the flaps

it all

fish

making a small gash that

fish,

1/2 inches.

I

and the gut

cavity,

with the

salt for

the marinade. Smash the scallions and ginger with the side of a cleaver blade or a heavy object and roughly chop them. Stuff

gut cavity and the

(about the time

3

it

Combine the soy small

sauce, sugar, wine,

bowl for the sauce.

When

all

the pieces into the

to marinate for about 30 minutes

scant 1/2 cup) to

(a

cornstarch, and cold stock

salt,

a separate bowl,

In

make

a fairly thick but

still

you are ready to begin cooking, heat plenty of deep-frying

marinated

5

When

the

and coat

fish

oil

it

paste. Then,

the

and wipe

oil

266

it

dry with paper towels. Smear

it

oil

over a

from the

generously

it

fish

has reached the right temperature, hold the fish up by

with the cornstarch paste, using your fingers to push

The

still

flaps of flesh

holding the

fish

should hang outward by

its tail,

and into the

flaps.

stiffly

When

the

has fixed the flaps

oil

until

to your serving dish and

it

the flesh

lay

it

on

is

its tail

into

all

laden with oil

and

over the body of

oil

out from the body, immerse the

and fry for another minute or two fish carefully

slightly,

lower the head into the

to fry for a couple of minutes as you ladle hot

position, standing

the

drippy

and out with dry cornstarch (about 3 tablespoons).

the crevices.

allow

a

at hand.

is

high flame to about 325°F. Discard the ginger and scallion pieces

inside

in

mix 3/4 cup of cornstarch

Assemble the other ingredients near the stove and make sure your

serving dish

4

fish

takes to chop and measure out the other ingredients).

with enough water paste.

Leave the

flaps.

in

their

open

fish totally in

just

its belly.

the

cooked. Remove

FISH

6 Reheat the

oil

to 400-425°F. Immerse the

few minutes more to your serving

the batter

until

towels and gently squash the

7 Pour

Add

3

fish

warm

fish

off the deep-frying

high flame.

—

Then add the

stock.

liquid to a boil.

add to the wok, and

from the

heat;

wok

tablespoons of peanut

and scallion whites and

stir,

throw

and pour the sauce

in

all

oil

and fry for a it

a clean kitchen towel or paper

this will help

give the

oil,

the hot

and golden. Carefully remove

the flavors of the sauce to

while you prepare the sauce.

garlic, ginger,

8 Bring the

fish in

crisp

Cover your hand with

dish.

penetrate. Keep the

is

a quick rinse, oil.

When

stir-fry until

the

and return oil

is

hot, add the

they are richly fragrant.

Give the prepared sauce ingredients stir briskly until

the liquid thickens.

in

the bowl a

remove

Finally,

the scallion greens, vinegar, and sesame

over the waiting

to a

it

oil; stir in;

fish.

9 Sprinkle with the garnish ingredients and serve.

SICHUAN-STYLE STEAMED FISH qing zheng xian yu

The queen

^yM

of

all

the

fish in Sichuan's

many

jA.

deeper waters.

j$v

and plenty of tasty

It

and

fish

flesh. In

the past

it

flourished

and serve

W^

following recipe dish:

is

it

probably the

flesh

over China for

all

the rivers at

rare to find

it's

its

in

tender, tasty

steam

it

with a fine stock and a ginger-and-vinegar is

created

the cooking method

had to use a different kind of

fish

prized

relative lack of bones. In Sichuan, they like to

Ar

unbony

is

has long whiskers, a pointed snout, few bones,

Chongqing and Leshan, although these days the wild. The

good

rivers

jiong tuan catfish, a proud, scaleless creature that lurks in the

fish. I've

in is

homage to

this

it

in

meat

whole

dip.

The

famous banquet

traditional, although

I've

inevitably

chosen the grouper, which has

and looks splendid on the dinner table. You can buy

it

at

firm,

many

markets.

267

land of plenty

To make

this dish

curled around

if

you

will

a

bowl large enough to take the

necessary, but not too large to

need a serving dish that

also

need

fit

into

your steamer. You

take the whole length of the

will

fish

of the stock (any extra stock can be served separately as a soup

have given instructions for making the traditional vinegar

I

friends loved the flavors of the fish and stock alone. invite

your guests to

them

in

pull

out pieces of

fish

If

fish,

if

dip,

will

and some

necessary).

my

although

you do make the

dip,

with their chopsticks and then dip

the vinegar. The stock can be drunk from the rice bowls at the end of

the meal.

Serves

I

2-3 as a main

vy^hole

dish with

one vegetable and

grouper, rock cod, or

sea bass (about 2 pounds), cleaned, with head and

I

3

tail

a

intact (or 2 smaller fish)

FOR THE MARINADE tablespoon Shaoxing rice wine or medium-dry sherry 3/4 teaspoon salt I

OTHER INGREDIENTS 3-4 Chinese dried mushrooms (about

1

1

ounce cooked ham cups finest clear stock or rich chicken stock I

-inch piece of fresh ginger,

unpeeled scallion, white and green

salt and pepper FOR THE DIP

a

I

-inch piece of fresh ginger

2 tablespoons Chinkiang or

1/3

ounce dried shrimp

Set the dried

4 with three other dishes

parts

ounce) 1/3

rice,

I

black Chinese vinegar teaspoon sesame oil

mushrooms and shrimp to soak

in

very hot water for about

30 minutes. 2 Make several apart,

I

parallel cuts into the fleshy part of

angled toward the head, not straight fish inside

nate for

3

If

268

1

down toward

and out with the wine, and rub

fish,

about 2 inches

it all

the bones. Splash the

over with the

salt.

Let mari-

5-30 minutes.

you wish to make the

little

the

inch deep, and at right angles to the backbone. The cuts should be

dip,

cut the ginger into fine slivers and put

dish with the vinegar and

sesame

oil.

it

into a

FISH

4 Shake the

fish

dry and wipe

mushrooms and

it

inside

and out with paper towels. Drain the

shrimp, reserving the soaking water. Finely slice the mush-

rooms, discarding any tough parts. Cut the ham into

Then

stuff a slice of

each of the cuts

body

ham, a

of

slice

mushroom, and

the sides of the

in

fish.

thin, rectangular slices.

a couple of

shrimp into

(You can put a few slices into the

cavity too.)

5 Bring the stock to a boil and add the reserved soaking water.

6 Carefully place the

into a

fish

may have to curve

(you

slightly

inside

deep bowl that

will fit into

your steamer

around the bowl). Crush the ginger and

it

scallion

with the side of a cleaver blade or a heavy object and put them

and around the

Pour the stock into the bowl, place

fish.

in

it

a

steamer, cover and steam over a high heat for about 12 minutes, until just

cooked through. 7 Gently transfer the

Remove the

to a deep serving dish.

fish

bits

from the

stock with a slotted spoon and discard them. Then season the stock with

and pepper to taste and pour

it

over the

FISH BRAISED IN

Serve with the dip

if

desired.

WITH BEAN CURD

SPICY SAUCE dou

When

fish.

fu

shao yu

the Sichuanese eat a great hearty dish of

fish

or rabbit

lashings of spicy sauce, they often send any remaining sauce

^>-

into the restaurant kitchen to be reheated with

/^^

The

J,

jiXmi

^

vkx

some bean

in

back curd.

tender, slippery bean curd absorbs the flavors of the sauce,

and another dish you'd find

in

ing dish

is

instantly created.

formal restaurants, but

eateries that have

J^

salt

become

combines both

delightful

fashionable

fish

not the kind of practice

It's it's

in

common

in

the rustic

recent years. The follow-

and bean curd

in a

single dish.

It's

combination of textures, and the sauce has a gentle,

guid spiciness. Sichuanese people often

make the

dish with a

a

lan-

few 269

land of plenty

tiny crucian carp,

which have

could be substituted. You

a particularly lovely flavor.

will

need a

large,

deep

A couple

of small trout

platter to serve this dish.

Serves 4 as a main dish with one vegetable dish and rice

I

whole carp or sea bass 1/2

(I

with head and I

2 scallions, white

tail

intact

sliced

block of bean curd (about

2 cups everyday stock (see

I

pound) peanut oil

page 3 8) or chicken stock teaspoon dark soy sauce 3 teaspoons Sichuanese sweet wheaten paste or sweet bean sauce mixed with 3 teaspoons cold water 2 tablespoons Shaoxing rice wine or medium-dry sherry 6 teaspoons cornstarch mixed with 3 tablespoons cold water 1

1

FOR THE MARINADE teaspoon salt tablespoon Shaoxing rice wine or medium-dry sherry

1/2 I

FOR THE SAUCE 4 tablespoons Sichuanese chili

bean paste I

I

and green

parts separated and finely

pounds), cleaned,

tablespoons finely chopped fresh ginger tablespoon finely chopped 1/2

garlic

1

Use

make shallow

a sharp knife to

slashes at

fattest part of the fish, at right angles to the

flavors to penetrate

its flesh.

ingredients and leave

it

Rub the

I

1/2-inch intervals across the

backbone. These

fish inside

and out with the marinade

be about 2 1/2 inches by 2 inches). Place

in

slices

should ideally

a panful of lightly salted boiling

—

water and leave to refresh over a very gentle heat

for best results

do not

the water bubble.

3 Season the wok, then add one-third cup heat.

Add

the

fish

crisp and golden.

270

help the

while you prepare everything else.

2 Cut the bean curd into slices about 1/2 inch thick (the

let

will

oil

and return the

and fry for about 2 minutes on each side

Remove and

set aside.

wok until

to a high

the skin

is

FISH

4 Discard

cup

oil.

stir-fry for

the

and

it

to a

medium heat with

hot but not smoking, add the

oil is

20-30 seconds,

ginger, garlic, until

wok, and then return

rinse the

oil,

When

the

until

scallion whites

oil

and

is

red and richly fragrant.

stir-fry for

Add

boil,

the

about 20 seconds more,

they are fragrant. Then add the stock and soy sauce. Place the

the wok, bring the liquid to a

1/4

bean paste and

chili

then turn the heat

fish in

down and simmer

about 6 minutes, spooning over the sauce from time to time. Turn the

for fish

and continue to simmer for another 4-5 minutes. Then add the sweet bean sauce mixture and the Shaoxing rice wine and mix them

Next add

in gently.

the bean curd and simmer everything for another couple of minutes.

5 Gently

remove the

Add

ter.

fish

from the sauce and

the cornstarch mixture to the

lift it

wok

onto

a large serving plat-

to thicken the sauce

—you may

need a little more or a little less than 4 teaspoons, depending on how much the sauce has reduced. You should end up with a gravy-like consistency. Finally, add the scallion greens, stir them in, and ladle the bean curd and sauce

all

over the waiting

fish.

DRY-BRAISED FISH WITH PORK SPICY SAUCE

IN

gan shao xian yu

Dry-braising

..-fc

K

^

a

is

method used

'^j

all

over China.

over a high flame and then

y^^i

Sichuanese version

peculiarly

All braised dishes are first

left

to

simmer gently

sauce. With dry-braising, however, the sauce urally, until

all

is

in

left

to reduce nat-

the seasonings have been absorbed by the main

ingredients or cling to

^

specialty and

sauce

will

them

in

a delicious sticky coating. Starch

one of my

especially

if

favorites.

oil,

real

fish

lies

in

is

a local it,

the

a small

with a scattering of scarlet chiles, pale seal-

pork, and dark salted mustard greens.

you use the

is

By the time you serve

have entirely disappeared, and the

pool of glossy red lions, crispy

heated

a stock-based

never added to thicken the sauce. The following dish

J^^

cooking

of a

It

is

not excessively hot,

Sichuanese pickled chiles (the whole chiles are

271

land of plenty

added mainly for milder dish).

If

most esteemed

The care

is

fish

color, so

local fish,

needed

in

transferring

a rich dish and

let

is

little

red

it

is

pepper for

bell

//),

a

one of the

sensational.

slightly

with the slow cooking, so a

to the serving dish.

If

little

you follow the

your guests use their chopsticks to help them-

most of the cooking

selves to pieces of fish, still

but sea bass

tends to disintegrate

Sichuanese practice and

it's

you could even use a

they can, Sichuanese cooks use rock carp {yan

oil will

be

left

on the

best served with plain rice and one or

plate,

but

two simple

stir-fried vegetables.

Serves

2-3

as a

main

dish with rice

and a vegetable, 4 with three other dishes

whole carp or sea bass

I

(I 1/2 pounds), cleaned, with head and tail intact

1/2-2/3

cup peanut

oil

FOR THE MARINADE teaspoon salt tablespoon Shaoxing rice wine or medium-dry sherry

tablespoon pickled chili paste 2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh ginger 2 teaspoons finely chopped 1

garlic

1/2 I

FORTHE PORK GARNISH 1/3

pound boneless, fresh

pork belly teaspoon light soy sauce 3/4 teaspoon dark soy sauce 1/4 teaspoon salt teaspoon Shaoxing rice wine or medium-dry sherry I

I

OTHER INGREDIENTS white parts only Sichuanese pickled chiles or 5 tiny Thai pickled chiles

5 scallions, 3

I

Use

a sharp knife to

make shallow

cups everyday stock (see page 3 18) or chicken stock 2 tablespoons fermented rice wine, Shaoxing rice wine, or medium-dry sherry teaspoon light soy sauce teaspoon dark soy sauce 1/4 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoons sugar 2 tablespoons Sichuanese ya cai orTianjin preserved vegetable TO FINISH 2 teaspoons sesame oil 1

1/3

I

I

1

slashes at

fattest part of the fish, at right angles to the

272

I

1/2-inch intervals across the

backbone. These

will

help the

FISH

flavors penetrate

its

ingredients and leave

2 Cut the

flesh.

Rub the

scallion whites

and Sichuanese chiles

chop the pork and mix

tions. Finely

and out with the marinade

inside

fish

while you prepare everything else.

it

using) into 2 1/2-inch sec-

(if

with the soy sauces,

it

salt

and Shao-

xing rice wine.

3 Season the wok, then add

I

tablespoon of

oil

and return

Add the pork and stir-fry for a couple of minutes, Remove and set aside. Rinse and dry the wok. 4 Dry the

with clean paper towels. Heat

fish

1/3

until

cup of

to a high heat.

it

it

a

is

the

oil in

crispy.

little

wok

until

Add the fish and fry each side for a couple of minutes until golden and crisp. Remove and set aside. (The fish can be briefly deep-fried smoking

hot.

instead

you have the

if

oil

on hand.)

5 Turn off the heat and allow the

oil

Then return the wok to medium about 30 seconds

fry for

until

the

it

stops smoking.

chili

paste, and stir-

to cool slightly until

add the pickled

heat, oil is

garlic, scallions,

and Sichuanese chiles

seconds or so

until

deep orange-red. Add the

a

(if

using) and stir-fry for

they are richly fragrant. Then pour

in

ginger,

another 20

the stock and

bring to a boil.

6 Add the sauces,

down fish

fish

salt,

to

to the

wok

and season with the Shaoxing

and sugar. When the

medium and simmer

liquid has

until

(if

using),

the water

in

fish,

add the precooked pork, /o

cai,

the sauce has evaporated, leaving only the cooking

fish

and

out some pieces of pickled

prettily along the

top of the

fish.

chile

oil.

to a shallow serving dish.

Spoon the remaining contents of the wok over the

them

turn the heat

and continue to simmer for about 10 minutes more,

7 Using 2 slotted spoons, carefully remove the

sticks to pluck

boil,

soy

for 10 minutes, spooning the sauce over the

from time to time. Turn the

Thai chiles

returned to a

rice wine,

fish.

and

Use

a pair of

scallion

Drizzle with the sesame

chop-

and arrange oil.

Serve at

once.

273

land of plenty

SPICY BRAISED FISH WITH

WHOLE GARLIC da suan shao yu

The Sichuan

region

known

is

for

its

du suan, or "single

garlic,"

which produces round, purple-skinned bulbs that are not divided into cloves. This garlic

where

little

its

edge of the plate

make the These

often used whole

is

in

braised dishes,

round bulbs are sometimes arranged around the like

a string of pearls.

The Sichuanese

like

to

following dish with a type of small, whiskered catfish.

have a delightfully slippery texture and are always

fish

eaten absolutely fresh. The amount of garlic used may sound excessive, but the cooking

method makes

it

mellow and

delicious,

nothing to be feared.

Serves 3 as a main dish, 4 with two or three other dishes

I

2 tablespoons finely

and

2 cups everyday stock (see

tail

fresh ginger

intact

FOR THE MARINADE

page 3 8) or chicken stock teaspoon dark soy sauce teaspoon sugar tablespoon cornstarch mixed with 3 tablespoons cold water 2 scallions, green parts only, 1

teaspoon salt tablespoon Shaoxing rice wine or medium-dry sherry

3/4

1/2 I

I

1

OTHER INGREDIENTS 3

heads of garlic with nice

fat

cloves

peanut oil 4 tablespoons Sichuanese bean paste

I

Use

a sharp knife to

finely sliced chili

make shallow

I

teaspoon Chinkiang or black Chinese vinegar

slashes at

fattest part of the fish, at right angles to the

flavors to penetrate

ingredients and leave

274

chopped

carp or sea bass (I 1/2 pounds), cleaned, with head

its flesh. it

Rub the

fish

I

1/2-inch intervals across the

backbone. These

will

help the

inside and out with the marinade

while you prepare everything else.

FISH

2 Peel

the garlic cloves.

all

3 Heat 1/3 cup of

smoking. have

Add

slightly

Remove and

a

in

oil

wok

over a gentle flame

the garlic and

all

stir-fry for

4 Turn

until

the cloves

dry with paper towels. Then

it

fish

until

has tightened.

skin

its

pour it

off

all

but about 3 tablespoons of

has stopped smoking. Then add the

over a medium flame for about 30 seconds

richly fragrant. it

hot but not

set aside.

cool slightly until

until

about 5 minutes

set aside. Drain the fish and pat

off the heat,

stir-fry

is

it

wrinkled skins and are just tender; they should remain white.

turn the heat up to high and fry the

Remove and

until

Add

the ginger and

smells delicious. Pour

in

until

and allow

oil,

chili

it

to

bean paste and

the

oil is

red and

another 20 seconds or so

stir-fry for

the stock, turn up the heat, and bring to a

boil.

5 Stir

the soy sauce, sugar, and

in

the liquid has returned to a

mer

salt

boil,

to taste, and then add the

for about 6 minutes. Turn the fish over

continue to simmer for another 6 minutes

sauce lic

is

much reduced. Transfer the

from the sauce with

fish.

fish

(you can add a

good

bit

in

in

to

the sauce, add the

until

the

fish

fish.

When

medium and is

to a serving plate.

garlic,

sim-

and

cooked and the

Remove the

gar-

spoon and arrange the cloves around the

Turn up the heat to reduce the sauce a

the cornstarch mixture

6

a slotted

down

turn the heat

bit

more

if

necessary, then add

a couple of stages, stirring as the liquid thickens

more cornstarch and water

if

necessary to achieve a

gravy-like consistency).

Finally,

turn off the heat,

over the waiting

fish.

stir in

the scallions and vinegar, and pour the sauce

Serve immediately.

275

land of plenty

STEW

FISH

IN

AN EARTHEN POT

sha guo xian yu

^

Lift

I

/i*/

the

subtle

on

lid

earthy stew and you

this

aromas and

and chicken

will

be soothed by

its

rich,

mushroom, ham, gentle pinks and browns

delicate colors. Thin slices of

drift in a clear stock, their

setting off the blue-gray skin of the gently curving fish. This dish usually

made

in

a heavy

earthenware pot

pot") that retains heat well and »»*

This

named

^\7\

specialty.

curd

in

lightly salted

instead of the

fish.

fish

stew

is

It

can also be

boiling

raw

ingredients.

made with

traditionally

after Ya'an, the place in

is

guo, literally "sand-

thought to be good at preserv-

is

ing the original, essential flavor of the

/^

(%\\q

ya yu, a kind of carp

western Sichuan where

made with bean

water and then put

it is

a local

curd: just blanch the bean it

Prepare the other ingredients as

and simmer everything together for 10-15 minutes,

into the casserole dish in

the following recipe,

until

the bean curd has

absorbed the flavors of the sauce.

You can serve but

it

Serves I

also

makes

4-6 people

this dish Sichuan-style,

and tail intact cup peanut oil

3/4

FOR THE MARINADE 1/2-inch piece of fresh

OTHER INGREDIENTS ounce (I tablespoon) dried shrimp 3 dried Chinese mushrooms 1/4 pound oyster mushrooms 1/3 pound cooked chicken 1/2

meat

ginger, unpeeled I

scallion,

white and green

parts

teaspoon salt tablespoon Shaoxing rice wine or medium-dry sherry

1/2 I

276

Chinese meal,

as a Sichuan-style final soup or a Western-style starter

v/hole sea bass (about 2

I

a

a great lunch with crusty bread and a salad.

pounds), cleaned, with head

a

toward the end of

ounces Smithfield ham or bacon 3/4 pound firm bean curd whole bamboo shoot (2-2 1/2 ounces) 5 cups chicken stock salt and ground pepper 2

I

FISH

1

mushrooms to soak

Set the shrimp and Chinese

separately

hot water

in

for about 30 minutes.

2 Make shallow cuts into the fleshy part of the vals

—6 or 7

cuts

in total.

The

fish at

I

1/2-

to 2-inch inter-

cuts should be at right angles to the back-

bone. Partially crush the ginger and scallion with the side of a cleaver blade

or a heavy object, and cut the scallion into a few sections. Rub the over with the

and wine, inside and out, including the

salt

made. Place the ginger and

slits

mushrooms

warm

inch thick and leave

minutes or

so.

Cut the bean curd

them to soak

Blanch the

minute or two and then pieces are if all

all

4 Thinly

slice

in

slice thinly. In

all

roughly on the same scale

Cut the ham

into rectangular slices

very hot,

bamboo shoot

the ingredients are cut

up.

into 2 or 3 pieces lengthwise (so they are easy

to eat with chopsticks). Thinly slice the cooked chicken. thin rectangular slices.

you have

and leave to marinate for

scallion into the cavity

about 30 minutes. Put your casserole dish into a 200°F oven to 3 Cut the oyster

fish all

lightly salted

in lightly

this cutting, try to will

1/2

water for 5

salted boiling

—the soup

into

about

water for a

make sure the

look much prettier

harmony.

in

the reconstituted dried mushrooms.

5 Discard the ginger and scallion from the marinade and dry the fish with

paper towels. Heat the a

oil in

a

wok

until

minute or two on each side to tighten the

the

warmed

6 Pour

off

medium

all

casserole dish, curving

its

Add

smoking. skin.

spine so

but about 3 tablespoons of the

oil

it

Drain

will

in

the it

and fry for

and place

it

in

fit.

the wok. Return

mushrooms and bamboo shoot, and the mushrooms smell delicious. Pour

flame, add the oyster

for about 30 seconds, until

fish

it

to a

stir-fry in

the

stock, and then add the shrimp (with their soaking water), ham, chicken,

dried

mushrooms, and bean

the soup to a

boil,

skim

casserole dish with the utes, until the fish

Serve

in

is

if

fish.

curd. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Bring

necessary, and then pour everything into the

Set the soup to

simmer gently

cooked and has absorbed

all

for 15-20 min-

the flavors of the sauce.

the cooking pot.

277

land of plenty

WITH CHILES AND SICHUAN PEPPER

FISH

la zi

This dish has

yu

—the

the hallmarks of Chongqing cooking

all

use of chiles and Sichuan pepper and the that

T*

'^

a^ ir\\>

makes

lent in

its

recipe

is

it

sizzle fragrantly.

The

final

sousing of spicy

oil

remains tender and succu-

protective clothing of starch and water.

The

following

based on one served at the Converging Rivers Fish

Restaurant {hui chuan yu guan) hard to believe,

I

chiles

in

Chengdu. Though

have actually toned

and Sichuan pepper used

ounces of dried

fish

lavish

down

—the restaurant

this

may be

the amounts of chiles

typically fries

up

3

or 4

and 2-3 tablespoons Sichuan pepper for a similar

amount of fish. The lavish dressing of oil is what gives the dish its fragrance: do remember that you are not expected to eat it (just pull out pieces of fish from the bowl with your chopsticks and let most of the oil fall away before you eat them). The whole spices are also usually left in the bowl.

Serves 2 as a main dish

I

pound

witli

filleted carp,

one vegetable dish and

sea

bass, or other white-fleshed

1

5 scallions,

unpeeled white and green

scallion,

parts 1/2

teaspoon

salt

Shaoxing rice

wine or medium-dry sherry 4 tablespoons cornstarch

mixed with

3

tablespoons

cold water

tablespoons peanut or corn oil

tablespoon Sichuanese chili bean paste 1/2 teaspoon Sichuan pepper FOR THE SPICY OIL 3/4 cup peanut or corn oil I

1

1/2

tablespoons

bean

1-2 ounces dried red chiles,

preferably Sichuanese 2 teaspoons

pepper

-inch piece of fresh ginger

chili

paste

6 dried Sichuanese chiles I

three other dishes

white and green

FOR THE BASE FLAVORINGS a 278

3

-inch piece of fresh ginger,

2 teaspoons

v^ith

parts

FOR THE MARINADE I

4

3 cloves of garlic

fish

a

rice,

whole Sichuan

FISH

1

Slightly

crush the ginger and scallion for the marinade with the

cleaver or a heavy object.

on

fillets

them

scallion into 3

flat

side of a

or 4 sections. Lay the

fish

board and, holding your knife at a shallow angle to the

a cutting

board, cut

add the

Cut the

into slices 1/4 to 1/2 inch thick. Place the slices in a bowl,

wine, ginger, and scallion, and leave to marinate while you pre-

salt,

pare the other ingredients.

2 Snip

the chiles

all

half

in

with a pair of scissors and shake out as many

seeds as possible.

3 Prepare the base flavorings: peel and thinly slice the ginger and card the coarse outer leaves of the scallions, crush flat

them

slightly

them

side of a cleaver blade or a heavy object, and then cut

3-inch sections. Heat 3 tablespoons of

smoke, turn the heat

just beginning to

it is

paste, and stir-fry until the garlic, scallions,

they

until

all

oil in

with the

into 2- to

wok over a high flame. When down a little, add the chili bean a

red and fragrant. Then throw

oil is

garlic. Dis-

in

the ginger,

dried chiles, and Sichuan pepper and continue to stir-fry

smell delicious and the scallions are tender.

hot enough to keep them

sizzling,

The

oil

should be

but take care not to burn them.

When

they are ready, transfer them into a deep serving bowl.

4 Bring a pot of water to a scallion

from the

coat

the

not

all

stir

over a high flame. Discard the ginger and

marinade, add the cornstarch mixture, and

fish

fish slices.

When

the water

drop

the

to

stir well

(Do

slices.

or the starch coating

a boil

a boil.

in all

When

the

fish slices

are

cooked, remove them with a slotted spoon and scatter them over the in

the serving bowl.

5 Working quickly, heat 3/4 cup of ning to smoke.

Add

fragrant.

Add

the

chili

until

stir-fry until

is

it

the

oil

just beginis

red and

stir-fry until

they

and —the longer you them, the more should be hot enough to keep everything become. Again, the but the must not burn — remove the wok from the stove

all

fragrant

fry

spicy

oil

for

spices

few seconds

spices

over a high flame

the remaining chiles and Sichuan pepper and

oil will

sizzling,

oil

bean paste and

are crisp and fragrant

a

boiling,

Allow the water to return to

base flavorings

the

is

them before the water has returned to

will fall away.)

just

boil

if

over the

it

seems to be overheating.

fish.

Finally,

Serve immediately, while

pour the

it is still

oil

with the

sizzling.

279

land of plenty

HOT-AND-NUMBING TINY FISH ma -w

J^^

la zi

yu

At many

riverside

tiny fish

and freshwater shrimp are deep-fried, spiced, and then

towns and

villages in

sold as a delicious, crunchy snack.

$k

largest statue of the

waters of the Min

River,

gling traces of chili

The makes

following

Leshan,

I

remember buying them from crisp,

recipe

shrimp

is

more

I

tin-

lips.

hot,

fish,

because they are in

relatively easy to

some Asian supermar-

The advantage of the tiny fish and them whole. You can add salt to the final seasoning

familiar large prawns.

that you can eat

you wish, but

stall

the

a wonderful nibble for a cocktail party. I've suggested using

frozen whitebait as the

kets or the

a tiny

left

easy and, served

splendidly

is

and they

my

and Sichuan pepper on

but you can also use the tiny frozen shrimp sold

find,

where the world's

Buddha presides over the sweeping brown

on the riverbank.They were fresh and

J~ \ -

if

In

the Sichuan countryside,

don't find

it

necessary with whitebait.

Serves 4 as a starter, 6 as a nibble with dririks

I

pound frozen whitebait or tiny frozen

2 scallions, white and green

shrimp

parts

FOR THE SEASONING

cup all-purpose flour peanut oil for deep-frying 3/4

2 tablespoons peanut

FOR THE MARINADE

1-3 Sichuanese

Defrost the

2 Rub the

cayenne pepper teaspoons ground roasted Sichuan pepper (see page 74)

fish.

fish all

over with the

salt

and wine.

scallions with the side of a cleaver blade

chop them. Add them to the

280

chiles,

1/2-1 1/2

a 2-inch piece of fresh ginger, unpeeled

1

ground

to taste, or 1/2 teaspoon

teaspoon salt tablespoon Shaoxing rice wine or mediunn-dry sherry

1/2 I

oil

fish.

Slightly

crush the ginger and

or a heavy object and roughly

Leave to marinate for about 15 minutes.

FISH

3

Heat the

oil

heating up,

shake the

While

for deep-frying over a high flame to about 375°F.

remove the ginger and

fish

dry

in

a colander. Toss

scallion pieces

them

in

it

is

from the marinade and

the flour, making sure they are

evenly coated.

4 Fry the

5

fish in

2-3 batches

per batch.

Remove and

When

fish

the

are

until

—

chiles

(if

using)

red and fragrant, taking great care not to

pepper and mix

this will take

ready, heat 2 tablespoons of

all

moderate flame. Add the ground oil is

they are crisp

well.

2-3 minutes

drain.

Then throw

the

in all

fish

oil in

and let

it

wok

a clean

over a

stir-fry briefly, until

burn.

Add

the

the Sichuan

and toss briskly to

distrib-

ute the spices evenly. Serve immediately.

VARIATIONS Crispy shrimp with

salt

and Sichuan pepper

jiao

yan su

shrimp or prawns can simply be served with a sprinkling of roasted Sichuan pepper (see page 74).

them

first.

If

deep-fried

xia:

salt

and ground

you use prawns, you must de-vein

This dish can be eaten hot, but

it is

also served as part of a cold

appetizer course.

You can use the same method to make delicious potato

them

as usual,

and then toss them

Sichuan pepper, as

in

the

fish

in

a hot

wok

with

salt,

chips: deep-fry

ground

chiles,

and

recipe above.

281

vegetables and bean curd ALTHOUGH THE MOST FAMOUS SICHUANESE DISHES ARE made with meat or

virtually

all

on

dominated by legumes,

a diet

nomic

necessity, for

meat

fish,

most of the

grains,

local

population actually

and vegetables. This

a luxury for the poor, but

is still

ideas about health and longevity

in

traditional

is

it is

also related to

Chinese culture. Early medical

texts describe the health benefits of largely vegetarian eating, and

bers of the ruling classes and

preference for frugal cated people

still

living

eat very

literati

meat

many mem-

have throughout history expressed a

many eduhome, and everyone knows that it's

and the simple peasant little

live

partly an eco-

at

diet.

These

days,

more vegetables, eat less meat" (duo chi shu cai, shao chi rou). A typical home-cooked dinner in Sichuan might consist of a few dishes of vegetables stir-fried with tiny pieces of meat, some bean curd perhaps, a simple better to "eat

stock-based soup and plenty of fish

is

rice:

extravagant consumption of meat and

usually associated with dining out and entertaining.

Despite this widespread acceptance of a diet based largely on grains and vegetables, total vegetarianism

is

still

rare

in

China. Most people find

it

hard

all meat products, all the time, and the only places where you're likely to find strict vegetarians are the monasteries. One of the most important precepts of Buddhism is the ban on killing, but the religion

to imagine abstaining from

doesn't explicitly forbid the consumption of meat.

282

In

the original Indian Bud-

monks were expected

dhism,

to eat almost

the food that was placed

all

in

their begging bowls: this included meat, as long as they didn't suspect an ani-

mal had been

But after Buddhism entered

killed specifically for their benefit.

China during the early Han period, a distinct tradition of vegetarian eating developed, partly because begging was never culturally acceptable

Chinese Buddhist monasteries had to produce their

own

food.

in

China, so

The

idea of

meat

vegetarian eating wasn't completely alien: periods of abstention from

had been part of Chinese

ritual life since

ancient times. But the establishment

Emperor Wu Di of the sixth-century Liang Dynasty, whose own conversion to Buddhism led him to adopt a vegetarian diet on compassionate grounds. He banned the use of meat in state sacrifices of the tradition

credited to

is

and enforced a rule of

strict vegetarian

eating

in

Buddhist monasteries

all

over the southern Yangtze region.

The

daily diet of

Buddhist monasteries

to their guests and patrons

the Emperor

Wu

its

the centuries since the time of

when monasteries began to hold feasts, Buddhist vegebecome extraordinarily sophisticated. Over the last cen-

development has been fostered by

which grew out of the

lay

specialist Buddhist restaurants,

Buddhist associations of the 1920s and

Chinese Buddhist cooking

really distinctive feature of all

In

Di,

tarian cooking has

tury

very simple, but the food offered

is

anything but.

is

is

—

that resemble meat or

At the Wenshu Monastery

fish in their

central

in

930s.

—

called fo

appearance, taste, and texture.

Chengdu,

a special

restaurant offers

feasts that mirror the banquets of classic Sichuanese cuisine but are

entirely without

frowned on

in

meat and without the pungent spices that are

traditionally

"beef slivers with sesame seeds" served there as a starter are actually

—the

stalks,

finished dish, drizzled with like

sweet

chili oil

a stalk of quite hard

sauce" from a fish-shaped

pile

deep-fried, and then draped

in

of

bamboo

like

ribs" are

made

pork, each impaled on a

shoot; the "fish

mashed potato wrapped

a lustrous red sauce.

rich

and scattered with seeds,

The "spare

the real thing.

from pieces of chewy bean curd, colored pink "bone" made from

made

chosen because of their chewy, meaty texture and

looks and tastes remarkably

this kind of

made

Buddhist monasteries (these include garlic and scallions).The

from mushroom taste

The

the practice of using

the culinary arts to transform vegetarian ingredients into dishes

zhai cai

1

in

in

spicy bean

bean curd

skin,

Other key ingredients

in

Buddhist vegetarian cooking include wheat gluten, various soy-

bean and bean curd products, and imitation meat made from the konnyaku

yam {mo

yu), a

Sichuan specialty.

land of plenty

Ordinary Sichuanese vegetable cooking may not be

this elaborate,

The markets of

also colorful, exciting and richly varied.

plenty," are overflowing with fresh, seasonal vegetables

of the local produce

is

familiar to

Westerners,

eggplants; red-skinned

radishes the

it is

Sichuan, "the land of all

year round.

Some

tomatoes, potatoes, onions,

like

and sweet peppers, as are certain Asian breeds of vegetables: fleshed

but

size

long, thin,

sweet-

of parsnips; tight-fleshed,

prickly cucumbers; loosely gathered heads of slender celery; huge Sichuanese

white cabbages. You'll also find the produce strongly associated with Chinese cooking: winter melons,

silk

gourds, and bitter melons; water spinach; lotus

rhizomes; green, yellow, and flowering chives; fresh ginger and single-cloved garlic;

long green

beans. Fresh

Chinese onions; shelled green soybeans; and yard-long

bamboo

shoots, quite unlike the stale-flavored canned varieties

available outside China, are available in several varieties, including bitter

boo shoots

(ku sun), spring

bamboo shoots

{chun sun), and winter

bam-

bamboo

shoots {dong sun).

Chinese

which are longer, widely used

known as "green garlic" {suan miao or qing suan), thinner, and more tender than their Western equivalent, are

leeks, also

in

Sichuanese cooking. Another ubiquitous vegetable

is

a type of

bolted lettuce with a swollen stem and sparse leaves {wo sun or qing sun),

which has

a subtle

and quite marvelous

peeled, and their jade-like flesh

of salads,

stir-fries,

is

flavor.

and you can also

leaves

{han

cai),

is

used

in

made

into a kind of

in all

kinds

stir-fried as

sometimes added to soups and

stir-fried

purple amaranth

greens

like

with

garlic;

sour ze'er gen

soups and salads; and the tender green

shoots of the Chinese toon tree {chun eggs and

and

leafy tips are sliced

find unusual seasonal

which are wonderful

{Houttuynia cordata), which

this lettuce are

used as a secondary ingredient

and braised dishes; the

a vegetable. Daylily flowers {huang hua) are stir-fries,

The stems of

ya),

which are often mixed with duck

omelet with an intriguing herby

taste. Delicate

pea leaves {dou miao), sometimes known as "dragon's whiskers" because of their curling tendrils, are

Many

sometimes added to soupy banquet

parts of Sichuan also have their

holy Daoist (Taoist) mountain Qing

famous visit

local black

to the

banquet of

bamboo

284

bacon

Bamboo

stir-fried

Sea {zhu

local exotica:

with jue

hai) in

bamboo

Cheng

own

dishes.

local specialties.

Around the

Shan, small restaurants serve the cai, a

purplish fiddlehead fern.

southern Sichuan

is

a

many types of fresh mushroom" {niu gan jun).

pith fungus {zhu sun),

shoot, and the rich, gelatinous "ox liver

No

complete without

VEGETABLES

The following chapter contains

Not

a selection of Sichuanese vegetable dishes.

are entirely vegetarian, although those that

all

AND BEAN CURD

do contain meat can

easily

be adapted for vegetarians by the simple omission of the meat and the substitution of vegetable laugh at

me

intended to

for any stock or animal

oil

for including

some

show some of the glories of home-cooked dishes that

are very simple

and aren't taught

fat.

My Chinese

friends might

book that is Sichuanese cooking. Most of them don't appear in serious cookbooks

of the following dishes

a

in

cooking schools. They are, however, quick to make,

in

deli-

cious to eat, and very healthy eaten with a generous bowl of rice. Including a

few simple stress

home-cooked Chinese dinner

stir-fries in a

it's

Especially

best to

refrigerator or pantry with a new, Sichuanese eye.

slivers

and

of the

few of these dishes should also help you to look into your

dishes. Practicing a

bles can be

much

when you are beginning to experiment make only one or two of the more complex time and accompany them with a couple of simple vegetable

away from the cook.

with Chinese cooking, dishes at a

also takes

transformed into a delicious feast

stir-fried

bag of spinach

with

garlic;

two

—

Odds and ends

of vegeta-

a couple of zucchini cut into

eggs cooked with a couple of tomatoes; a

with a few dried chiles and Sichuan peppercorns.

stir-fried

doesn't take long to learn to

make

a

meal

It

this way.

FISH-FRAGRANT EGGPLANTS yu xiang qie zi

^

%\\\

^

The following recipe is a Sichuan classic and one of my personal More than any other dish, for me it sums up the luxuriant pleasures of Sichuan eating: the warmth of its colors and tastes, the rich subtlety of its complex flavors. Like other fish-fragrant

favorites.

dishes,

it

jlq ^

Sichuanese

^'*?

derives

prepared with the flavorings used

fish

its

in

traditional

cooking: pickled chiles, garlic, ginger and scallion.

But unlike the more illustrious fish-fragrant pork

chiles

visible

is

slivers, this dish

color not from pickled chiles alone, but from pickled

mixed with

fava beans in the

The sauce is sweet and sour and scattering of chopped ginger, garlic, and

famous Pixian spicy,

chili

bean paste.

with a reddish hue and a

scallion. The dish

is

equally deli-

285

land of plenty

cious hot or cold.

and a

stir-fried

and a

rice

table.

I

usually serve

I

salad.

The

make you

to guests with a meat or bean curd dish it

makes

brown

a fine lunch simply with

eggplants, deep-fried to a buttery tenderness, are delec-

have eaten this dish

numerous

it

green vegetable, but

restaurants

in

over Sichuan and recorded

all

The

different versions of the recipe.

two

following

will,

I

hope,

sigh with delight.

Serves 4 with three other dishes

I

l/3-i 2/3

pounds eggplants

cup everyday stock (see page 3 8) or chicken stock 1/2 teaspoons white sugar 1/2 teaspoon light soy sauce 1/3 teaspoons cornstarch mixed with tablespoon cold water 1/2 teaspoons Chinkiang or Chinese black vinegar 4 scallions, green parts only, 1/2

(2 decent-sized eggplants

1

or a generous handful of

I

slender Asian eggplants) salt

I

peanut or corn

oil

for deep-

I

frying

tablespoons Sichuanese chili bean paste 3 teaspoons finely chopped fresh ginger 3 teaspoons finely chopped I

1/2

I

sliced into fine rings

teaspoon sesame

I

oil

garlic

METHOD 1

I

Cut the eggplants

in half

lengthwise and then crosswise.

Chop each

lengthwise into 3 or 4 evenly sliced chunks. Sprinkle with of salt and leave for at least 30 minutes to draw out

you are using Asian eggplants, simply into 3-inch sections

2

In

your wok, heat

will just

oil

no need to

for deep-frying to

until slightly

Remove and

drain

3 Drain off the deep-frying

286

is

salt

some

in half

1/2

quarter

teaspoons

of the juices.

If

lengthwise and then

them.

350-400°F

be beginning to smoke). Add the eggplants

for 3-4 minutes within.

—there

them

slice

I

(at this in

temperature

it

batches and deep-fry

golden on the outside and soft and buttery

on paper towels.

oil,

rinse the

wok

if

necessary, and then return

it

VEGETABLES ANP BEAN CURD

to a high flame with 2-3 tablespoons of

about 20 seconds

stir-fry for

until

the

oil.

Add

the

bean paste and

chili

red and fragrant; then add the

oil is

ginger and garlic and continue to stir-fry for another 20-30 seconds until

they are fragrant. Take care not to burn the flavorings

— remove the wok

from the heat for a few seconds or turn down the heat

if

4 Add the stock, if

5

sugar,

Add

the fried eggplants to the sauce and

some

the eggplants and

and

scallions

ness. Finally,

METHOD

let

stir in

them simmer gently

gently to thicken the sauce. Next, stir

and leave for a few seconds

remove the pan from the

salt

to taste

it

for a few min-

until

in

the vinegar

the onions have lost their raw-

heat, stir in the

sesame

oil,

and serve.

2

warmed

a

When as

Season with

of the flavors.Then sprinkle the cornstarch mixture over

Follow steps 1-4 of the recipe above, but

onto 2

well.

necessary.

utes to absorb

1

and soy sauce and mix

necessary.

lay

the fried eggplants neatly

serving dish.

the sauce has returned to a

thickens. Throw

in

boil,

add the cornstarch mixture and

the vinegar and scallions and

have just lost their rawness.

Remove from

the heat,

stir until

stir in

stir

the scallions

the sesame

oil,

and pour over the waiting eggplants.

The advantage of the first method is that you can, if you wish, fry the plants some time in advance, because they will be warmed up by the braising

in

eggfinal

the sauce.

VARIATIONS The

fish-fragrant sauce

made according

poured over stuffed eggplant

to the second

fritters (see

method can be

page 301) or seafood such as

prawns or squid. The seafood can be simply boiled or steamed, or deepfried,

sauce

perhaps with a in

a

bowl

innovations

light

tempura-style batter.

as a dip for deep-fried prawns.

—they have only been served

seafood began to be flown

in

in

Some

restaurants serve the

These variations are recent

upscale restaurants since fresh

from the coast.

287

land of plenty

TIGER-SKIN GREEN PEPPERS fu pi qing jiao

* *

This dish

is

so-called because the frying

method makes the

the peppers slightly wrinkled and golden

in

skins of

places, so they look

streaky "like a tiger's skin." After the frying, the peppers are sea-

soned with

and then dressed on the serving dish with a

salt

aromatic vinegar, a delicious contrast to their

1

•-^^

The Sichuanese use

^

ally

•^^

rich,

buttery

flesh.

green chiles that are gener-

2 1/2-3 1/2 inches long, but you can use any kind of green pep-

per that

-i^^f

small, thin-skinned

little

available. (I've

is

used thin-skinned Turkish peppers, the

green peppers used for

long, thin

Do

peppers.

pickling,

are

much too

ble

because you never know what kind of chile

Ordering

hot.)

are as sweet and mild as

and ordinary green

not use the green chiles available this dish in a

Sichuan restaurant will

peppers, others so hot

bell

in

be used

bell

the West, which is

a bit of a

gam-

—sometimes they

they'll leave

you gasping.

Serves 4 with tliree other dishes

3/4 I

pound green

bell

Wash

salt to taste

the peppers.

you are using

If

their seeds and stems.

squash them

slightly

and leave the stems 2 Heat the

oil in

medium heat

If

until just

at

their flesh

is

small, thin-skinned

stirring constantly.

wok

as

they'll

288

to taste and

Keep pressing the fry.

The peppers

burn before they are soft

always turn the heat up at the end to color

salt

you

skins of

are ready

absolutely tender and their skins are streaky. Don't

too high a temperature or

3 Pour most of the

peppers, just

smoking, then add the peppers and fry over

the peppers onto the surface of the

when

peppers, quarter them and discard

with the palm of your hand or the side of a cleaver

5-6 minutes,

for

bell

you are using

intact.

wok

a

1-2 teaspoons Chinkiang or

black Chinese vinegar

cup peanut oil teaspoon

1/4-1/2

1

peppers

oil off

stir

them

slightly

if

—

cook

you can

you need

to.

into a heatproof dish. Sprinkle the peppers with

and toss

until

they are evenly seasoned.

Pile

them

VEGETABLES AND BEAN CURD

onto a serving dish and be

light

—don't souse

drizzle with the vinegar.

the peppers

serve. This dish also tastes

good

in

it.)

(The vinegar flavor should

Mix gently with chopsticks and

cold.

DRY-FRIED GREEN BEANS gan bian

^

This

is

si ji

I

dou

one of Sichuan's most famous vegetable

dishes.

The green

beans are traditionally dry-fried over a medium heat

'I

are tender and slightly wrinkled, although these days rants deep-fry

minimize the

vTO

them through

them to reduce the cooking

oiliness,

you can steam or

time.

boil

If

until

most

they

restau-

you want to

the beans to cook

instead of frying them, and then follow the rest of

the recipe (from step 3) according to the instructions given

below. This

method

is

not authentic, but the results are delicious,

particularly for the vegetarian version of the dish.

Serves 4 with ttiree otiier disties

ounces haricots verts or green beans peanut oil 3 ounces ground pork (about 2/3 cup) 2 teaspoons Shaoxing rice wine or medium-dry sherry 1

1

Remove any tails.

strings

2 teaspoons soy sauce 2 tablespoons Sichuanese ya cai orTianjin

salt to taste I

teaspoon sesame

from the edges of the beans and trim

Break them into short sections (about 2 inches

2 Heat 2 tablespoons of

oil in

flame for about 6 minutes,

puckered.

a

oil

off the tops

stir-fry

over a medium

they are tender and their skins are a

Remove from the wok and

set aside.

(If

and

long).

wok, add the beans, and

until

preserved

vegetable, finely chopped

little

you want to save time,

deep-fry the beans at about 350°F until they are tender and puckered.) 289

land of plenty

3 Heat another 2 tablespoons of

oil

in

the

wok

pork, and stir-fry for 30 seconds or so until

over a high flame, add the cooked, splashing

it's

in

the

Shaoxing rice wine and the soy sauce as you go.

4

Add

the ya cai or Tianjin preserved vegetable and

then toss the ya cai

5

in is

the beans. Stir and toss, adding already very

Remove from the

VARIATION One restaurant which

is

fried in the

The

final

I

know

In

sesame

add a few dried

is

is

and serve.

a similar dish with bitter

deseeded and cut into

same

exactly the

chiles

oil,

Chengdu cooks

melon

same way as the beans, until the

frying

to taste (remember that

salty).

heat, stir in the

sensational. The

salt

stir-fry briefly until hot,

strips are

thin strips

tender and

^

own

m

si ji

dou

with

its

in

almost nicer than the

The

Chengdu. The spices and

toasty and fragrant, the beans tender and

recipe

is

my

flavorings are

juicy.

witli tiiree ottier disiies

ounces haricots verts or green beans 2 scallions, white parts only peanut oil 290

is

scattering of ground pork.

recreation of a dish from a tiny restaurant near the Sichuan

Serves 4

10

2

(VEGETARIAN VERSION)

Conservatory of Music all

do

and a couple of lengths of scallion, white and green parts.

This vegetarian version of dry-fried beans classic dish

slightly wrinkly.

as in the recipe above, although they

DRY-FRIED GREEN BEANS gan bian

melon,

and then

8 dried chiles, snipped

in half,

preferably Sichuanese 1/2

teaspoon Sichuan pepper

VEGETABLES AND BEAN CURD

of fresh ginger, thinly sliced

3 cloves of garlic, thinly sliced,

and an equivalent amount

1

Remove any tails.

Breal<

strings

them

from the edges of the beans and trim

2 Heat 2 tablespoons of

oil in

stir-fry

a

"horse ear"

wok

aside. (You can deep-fry

the

garlic, ginger,

the beans and

oil in

stir-fry

puckered

slightly

the

skins.

—see previous

wok

very briefly

and scallions and

stir

seal-

1/2 inches long.

I

over a low to medium flame.

them to save time

Heat 2 tablespoons of fresh and Sichuan pepper and

slices,

tops and

Cut the

Add

over a medium flame for about 6 minutes,

they are cooked and tender with

3

off the

into short sections (about 2 inches long).

lions at a steep angle into thin

green beans and

salt to taste

the

until

Remove and

set

recipe.)

over a high flame. Add the chiles

until

they are fragrant. Quickly add

they are

stir-fry until

fragrant.Throw

all

and toss the ingredients together, adding

salt

in

to taste. Serve.

FLOWERING CHIVES WITH SMOKY BACON la

One

af j 1^^

of

my

favorite Sichuanese stir-fries

stems {suan lie

tai

stems, which

used

in

rou chao jiu cai hua

or suan hao) and

come from one

is

a simple

mix of

garlic

smoky bacon. The garnumber of varieties of garlic

slivers of

of a

Sichuan, have a crisp texture and a fresh, chive-like flavor,

and are usually sold doubled up into long green skeins. Their taste

*ny

is

perfectly

complemented by the meat. You can sometimes find in Chinese supermarkets, but flowering chives seem

garlic

stems

Ah

to be

more

j*^

subject of this recipe. Flowering chives have slender, dark green

,4jk

stems, each topped by a miniature garlic bulb. Sometimes they are

-^V^ %1»

yil^

readily available,

sold as "onion flowers." delightfully

bacon

until

is

why

The following

easy to make. it is

which

I

have

recipe

made them the

is

delicious and

Some Sichuanese cooks steam

cooked before they

the

begin.

291

land of plenty

Serves 2 with one other dish and rice for a simple supper, 4 with three other dishes

and

rice

8 ounces flowering chives or

2 tablespoons

stems ounces slab (unsliced) bacon or pancetta (preferably in one piece)

Chop

the chives into

end of each

I

teaspoon sesame

I

oil

to 2-inch sections, discarding the bulbs at the

1/2-

Cut the bacon across the

stalk.

oil

salt to taste

garlic 3 1/2

1

peanut

grain into strips of a similar

length and thickness to the chive sections.

2 Heat the

oil in

a

wok

cooked and smells and

stir

take a

over a high flame. Add the bacon and

delicious (30-60 seconds), then

and toss for about 3 minutes

little

the sesame

longer to oil off

become

until

stir-fry until

throw

the chives

in all

they are tender

it is

(garlic

stems

tender). Season with salt to taste and stir

in

the heat, just before serving.

MUSHROOMS

STIR-FRIED MIXED

shan zhen hui

When

>|l

in

western Sichuan,

<«^

like

•^x

sine in

1^^

summer

paid a late

I

me,

a

I

ily.

My

Chengdu.

In

discovered that one of the local cooks was,

China I

this

We

in

"same-school" (tong xue) bond

I

visit,

in

a

an

the kitchen

in

smoldering

however, was a trip

fire

in

the

we made up

search of wild food plants.

chugged up the road on a borrowed moped, the immense, pine-clad

mountains

rising steeply

on either

Through the center of the

valley

side, their

wound

peaks shrouded

in drifting

mists.

a rushing peacock-blue river, tumbling

over a mass of boulders. Small-scale farmers were carving out their 292

is

one of the fam-

as

pottered around

smoked bacon over

shed at the back. The highlight of the

Higher Cui-

Institute of

was immediately taken

tong xue Peng Rui and

while his mother

the valley

Wolong Nature Reserve

to the

former student of the Sichuan

important one, and

A'Sr

visit

livings

on

VEGETABLES AND BEAN CURD

the steep lower slopes, creating a beautiful patchwork of tiny plots. Dark leaves

flowered out around the hearts of cabbages, pinky-white radish tops swelled

enormous bundles from the wooden eaves of scattered stone cottages. At one point we left the road and went on foot up a craggy gorge where cataracts spilled down into out of the earth, yellow corn cobs and scarlet chiles dangled

in

mountain stream. Here, the changing seasons brought wild walnuts and

a

crabapples, tiny wild strawberries, and an abundance of wild fungi.

The following recipe is created in homage to a dish of stir-fried wild mushrooms that Peng Rui made that night. The fungi are cooked with chicken fat, a Chinese luxury that gives them an exquisite richness without actually recalling the taste of chicken. The other flavorings are simple and colorless, allowing you to appreciate the variety and natural subtlety of the fungi.You can vary the mushrooms you

as

will

—

together a few contrasting colors and textures.

just try to bring

Serves 4 with three other dishes

about a pound of mixed

3

mushrooms: shiitake,

lard

cup chicken stock 12 teaspoon salt to taste 3/4 teaspoon cornstarch mixed with 2 teaspoons water

Chinese golden needle, Japanese enoki, or button oyster,

plump

2

1

If

1

peanut

oil

you are using enoki mushrooms, make sure you

they don't stay slices

in

smoking.

oil

Add

and chicken

stir-fry for

3 Pour

all

in

the

fat

the garlic and

verge of browning.

until

one clump. Cut

(about 1/4 inch). Thinly

2 Heat the

a

1/3

cloves of garlic

2 tablespoons

tablespoons chicken fat or

Throw

slice

or

them gently apart so the other mushrooms into thickish

all

the

garlic.

lard in a

wok

over a high flame

stir-fry briskly until

in all

the

pull

it

is

until just

fragrant and

mushrooms except

about 2 minutes. Then add the enoki and continue to

mushrooms

are tender

the stock and season with

—another minute or salt

on the

for the enoki and stir-fry

so.

to taste. Bring to a

few seconds, and then add the cornstarch mixture and

boil,

simmer

stir until

it

for

has

gently thickened the sauce. Transfer onto a plate and serve. 293

— land of plenty

AMARANTH LEAVES OR SWISS CHARD WITH GARLIC

STIR-FRIED

chao han

This spring and

if

summer

cai

han

vegetable

—

cai

is

the tender young

leaves and stems of a species of amaranth. The leaves have purple

hearts and green edges and can have rounded or pointed ends.

j|^

J&i

The Sichuanese

j^,

the

Han

traditionally eat this vegetable

lunar month,

fifth

Duan

Wu Jie

(the

on the

Dragon Boat

day of

fifth

Festival).

can be stir-fried with chiles and Sichuan pepper, as

cai

in

the recipe for water spinach on page 295, or blanched, cooled,

and then dressed with the hot and garlicky sauce on page 146. Best of

all,

however,

recipe below. juices

love the tender leaves stir-fried with garlic as

I

As they cook,

and the

their purple pigments

green leaves. This vegetable

isn't

come out and

easy to

find,

but pops up seasonally

Chinese and Vietnamese food shops. You can cook the more readily red Swiss chard the

Serves 2

witti

a main

same way, to

dist)

and

Wash

2 teaspoons finely

1/4

teaspoon

salt to taste

oil

the han cai thoroughly. Discard the coarser stalks and break the ten-

2 Heat the

oil

briskly until

over a high flame it is

you scoop the

fragrant. Throw in

garlic

Continue to

dry.

until just all

smoking. Add the garlic and

stir-fry until

stir-fry

the han cai and mix well, making sure

up from the base of the

wok

and toss

it

in

with the

the leaves have wilted and the stalks are

tender, seasoning with salt to taste.

294

chopped

garlic

der ones into 4-inch lengths. Shake

leaves.

some

available

rice

pound fresh, tender amaranth {han cai) leaves

1

in

dark

similarly delicious effect.

3/4

or red Swiss chard 2-3 tablespoons peanut

stain the

pink, a lovely contrast to the wilted,

garlic a beautiful

the

in

AND BEAN CURD

VEGETABLES

VARIATIONS Many other

leafy vegetables are delicious stir-fried

with

encoun-

garlic. I've

tered, annong others, Chinese water spinach, Chinese milk vetch {shao cai

or chao

cai),

and various wild Sichuanese vegetables. Ordinary spinach

cooked

delicious

this way, too.

is

Always use very tender young leaves and

stalks, discarding fibrous bits.

WATER SPINACH WITH

STIR-FRIED

CHILE AND SICHUAN PEPPER qiang kong xin cai

^

Water

spinach

common

is

grown

why

is

their

means "hollow-heart

it

is

percorns, as

Water cai; it is

common

vegetable."

is

a very

varieties, with

same round, hollow

Sichuanese name, kong xin

The Cantonese

usually fast-fried with dried chiles in

spinach

like

cai,

to cook this

pound

fresh

in

Mandarin Chinese as weng

sold as ong choy or tong c/ioy

rice,

chiles, preferably

in

cai

garlic.

and tong

Cantonese supermarkets.

4 with three other dishes

water spinach

or ordinary spinach a small handful of dried

Sichuanese

known

in

and Sichuan pep-

the following recipe, or with finely chopped is

Serves 2 with a main dish and

I

There are two main

vegetable with fresh red chiles and fermented bean curd, but

Sichuan

3/4

most parts of Sichuan and

different-shaped leaves, but both have the

stems, which

|i*^

in

stir-fried vegetable.

peanut oil 1/2 teaspoon whole Sichuan pepper 1/4-1/2 teaspoon salt to taste teaspoon sesame oil

3 tablespoons

i

Thoroughly wash the water spinach, discarding any wilted leaves and coarser stalks. Tear in half

or cut into 4-inch sections. Wearing rubber gloves, snip the chiles

or into

I

-inch sections, discarding as

many seeds

as possible.

295

land of plenty

2 Heat the

oil in

pepper and

a

wok

until

hot but not smoking.

10-20 seconds

stir-fry for

until

chiles are just beginning to turn a darker red

Throw

in all

the spinach and

stir-fry for

have wilted and the stems are tender and Finally,

remove from the heat and

stir in

Add

the

the chiles and Sichuan smells spicy and the

oil

—take care not to burn them.

about 3 minutes juicy,

until

seasoning with

the sesame

oil.

the leaves

salt

to taste.

Serve.

VARIATION Water

spinach

tle salt.

is

also delicious stir-fried with garlic and seasoned with a

Simply substitute minced or slivered garlic for the spices

in

lit-

the

recipe above.

DRY-FRIED BITTER

MELON

gan bian ku gua

In

j*y*_^

Chinese, bitterness (ku)

is

the universal metaphor for suffering.

Chinese people remember the famine years of the

I

late

1950s and

when

the grim banishments of the Cultural Revolution as a time

they "ate bitterness," chi ku. But despite bitterness

vi^

has

also

its

benefits.

"^5*

emperor's adviser were a token of

A

summer months,

seen as useful

is

in

its

association with sorrow,

Bitter

words spoken

his loyalty,

Chinese medical theory.

bitter foods are

by

and bitterness

In

Sichuan,

in

in

an

food

the sultry

thought to cool the body and

drive out perspiration. The undisputed

queen of

bitter foodstuffs

is

ku gua, the bitter melon or gourd, a long, gnarled, bright green vegetable with a withering

bite.

It's

a

common

feature on Sichuanese dinner tables

whenever the

weather's hot and humid, particularly prepared according to the following easy recipe,

296

which

is

a local specialty. The extremely bitter flavor of this vegetable

definitely an acquired taste, but

one adored by those who grow to

Serves 2 with one other dish and

rice,

melon (about

I

bitter

I

pound) green bell pepper

I

like

it.

4 with three other dishes

1-2 tablespoons peanut salt to taste

teaspoon)

oil

(about 3/4 of a

is

VEGETABLES AND BEAN CURD

1

Cut the bitter melon in half lengthwise. Scoop out the seeds and pith and throw them away. Chop each half into 2-inch sections, and cut these lengthwise into very thin pith,

and cut

it

wok

slices.

Halve the pepper, discard the seeds,

about as long as the melon

into thin slices

stalk,

and

slices.

over a medium hot flame. Add them for about 5 minutes, until they are cooked but still a little crunchy. Toward the end of the cooking time, add the oil and season with salt to taste (Sichuanese cooks would use more

2 Smear a

with a very

little oil

and heat

the bitter melon and pepper slices and

oil

—

I

like this

it

stir-fry

dish with just a tablespoonful or so).Then just turn

onto

a dish

and serve.

STIR-FRIED POTATO SLIVERS

WITH

CHILES AND SICHUAN PEPPER qiang tu dou

^

Sf»

The Chinese approach to potatoes is radically different from the Western one. They're not seen as a staple food, but as a vegetable that is cooked as an accompaniment to rice. In Chinese, they are known as "earth beans" or as "foreign taro," the latter a reference to their New World origins and comparatively recent introduction to China. Sometimes potato chunks are simmered with beef or lamb in slow-cooked stews. More often in Sichuan they are cut into fine slivers and simply stir-fried. This cooking method keeps them crunchy and lends them a very different character from the mashed,

lar in

si

boiled, deep-fried,

and roasted potatoes popu-

the West. You can make this dish with any kind of potato, but

best with those with a

waxy rather than

—good Sichuanese cooks

even your chopping, the better the result so finely they look almost

entwined on the

Some

like

skeins of

plate. Take care

it

works

a floury texture. The finer and slice

wool when they are cooked,

more them

languidly

not to burn the spices.

Sichuanese friends of mine jokingly called this dish yang yu chao

dou, which roughly translates as "spud-fried potatoes"

very economical and simple dish by giving

it

—

a

way

tu

of sending up a

an over-elaborate name.

297

land of plenty

Serves 4 with 3 other dishes

pounds potatoes peanut oil I

i/2

6 dried chiles, preferably

salt

Sichuanese

1

teaspoon whole Sichuan pepper

I

sugar 1-2 teaspoons sesame

Peel the potatoes and cut

them

Then

and cut them into very

lay

these slices

flat

Soak for a few minutes

in

as evenly as possible into very thin slices. fine

matchstick

slice

slivers.

remove

plenty of cold, lightly salted water to

excess starch. You can also use a mandoline or the coarse grater

processor to

oil

a

in

food

the potatoes.

2 Just before cooking, drain the potatoes

in

a colander, shaking out as

much

water as possible. 3 Season the wok, then add 2 tablespoons of

medium flame per and

until

stir-fry briefly until

the

oil is

and swirl

oil

Add

hot but not smoking.

around over

it

a

the chiles and Sichuan pep-

fragrant and spicy.

Add

the potatoes,

turn the heat up, and stir-fry vigorously for 4-5 minutes, seasoning with salt

and maybe a pinch of sugar to taste (about potatoes are hot and cooked but in

the sesame

oil,

still

al

1/2

teaspoon

dente,

will do).

When

remove from the

the

heat, stir

and serve.

VARIATIONS This

method of

qiang

in

quick-frying with chiles and Sichuan pepper

(known

as

Chinese) can be used with several different vegetables. Typical vari-

ations include the following:

Mung bean

sprouts: follow the

method above, but

stir-fry for a

shorter

time, until the bean sprouts are just cooked.

Chinese cabbage

(also

bage: cut into 1/2- to

I

known

as

Chinese leaves) or Western green cab-

-inch slices and

cook

as above.

Add

a

good

Chinkiang vinegar just before serving for a fabulous extra kick of

298

slosh of

flavor.

VEGETABLES AND BEAN CURD

Broccoli: cut into florets and blanch

cooking

oil until

just tender,

Potato and green

pepper

bell

Sichuan pepper and use

bell

effect),

water with

dou

pepper (or

omit the

si):

end

if

you

chiles

and

a mixture of different col-

oil

and add the potatoes with

the peppers. Stir-fry and season as above. You can throw slivers at the

a splash of

very finely slivered, instead. To cook, sim-

season the wok, then heat the cooking

ply

salted

slivers {qing jiao tu

green

I

ored peppers for a lovely

in lightly

then fry as above.

in

few

a

scallion

like.

SWEET CORN KERNELS WITH GREEN PEPPERS qing jiao yu mi

X^

Sweet corn has a poetic name rice"

— but

it is

Cornmeal

province.

Chinese

—

is

made

in

In

Sichuan,

'^

which

still

is

it's

asso-

the poor mountain areas of the

into

some snacks and

example a type of coarse, conical steamed bun known

'^

means "jade

literally

it

not considered a prestige food.

ciated with subsistence eating

jtjSL

in

sweets, for as

wo wo tou, in some

a peasant staple but has recently appeared

fashionable restaurants as a pseudo-rustic novelty snack. Fresh

y|»

sweet corn kernels are often

>|^

This

is

books, but

stir-fried, as in

the following recipe.

the kind of everyday dish that doesn't appear a regular

it's

restaurants and a popular

in

recipe

on the menus of informal Sichuanese

home-cooked

dish. You

can use frozen corn or a can

of unsweetened sweet corn instead of corn on the cob, but of course you

won't get the delicious

juicy

The sweet corn can be

first

green peppers, but small, thin-skinned

I

prefer

crunch of the fresh kernels

if

boiled and then tossed briefly it

fried. In

Sichuan the corn

is

you do

in

the

usually

it

wok

this way.

with the

cooked with

green peppers, but you can use other types or a mixture of

red and green sweet peppers instead. This dish definitely tastes best with plenty of salt

—maybe

a

little

more than you would put

into other dishes.

Serves 4 with three other dishes

299

4

land of plenty

2 or 3 small green bell

2 ears of fresh corn (about

peppers (enough to give a pretty scattering of green amid the yellow)

Chop

1

1

ounces corn kernels) peanut oil sea salt

the peppers into tiny chunks to complement the small, squarish

sweet corn kernels.

Slice the kernels

2 Heat 3 tablespoons of

oil in

for about 5 minutes over a

a

from the corn cob.

wok, add both vegetables, and

medium flame

until

stir-fry

them

the sweet corn kernels are

tender, adding sea salt to taste. Serve.

DRY-FRIED EGGPLANTS gan bian

The

dry-frying

method

is

qie zi

a Sichuan specialty

vegetables, they are stir-fried

in

until just

cooked. Then a

with

to taste. This cooking

salt

a dry

little oil is

wok

When

it's

applied to

over a medium flame

added and they are seasoned

method

brings out their fragrance

and gives them a

nice, slightly toasty taste

grilled vegetables.

It's

— rather

like

important to keep them moving

and not to work at too high a temperature

lest

in

Western the

wok

the vegetables

burn before they are ready. You can vary the proportions of eggplant and green

pepper

the leftover vegetables

the

wok

in in

the recipe according to your desires or

your refrigerator, but don't overload

or they won't cook evenly. The bright green peppers should taste

fresh and slightly crunchy, livening up the languid flesh of the eggplants.

Serves 2 with one other dish, 4 with three other dishes as part of a Chinese meal

about a pound of eggplant 1/2 teaspoons salt 1/2 of a green bell pepper I

300

peanut oil teaspoon sesame I

oil

I

VEGETABLES AND BEAN CURD

1

Cut the (ideally

eggplant(s)

them

lengthwise, and then slice

in half

thinly at an angle

the slices should be 1/8 inch thick). Sprinkle with the

for at least 30 minutes to

draw out some of the

and leave

salt

juices (this step

is

not nec-

essary for the slender Asian eggplants, which can simply be sliced and

cooked). Cut the pepper into thin

2 Smear a

wok

lightly

with peanut

smoking. Add the eggplants and their rawness." oil.

Continue to

oil

stir

and heat

oil,

over a

slices

salt

if

necessary.

fairly

3

hot flame

until

minutes to "break

and 1-2 more tablespoons of

another 2 minutes or so

stir-fry for

the sesame

it

and toss for about

Then add the pepper

cooked. Season with more stir in

slices.

Finally,

until

the pepper

remove from the

is

just

heat,

and serve.

STUFFED EGGPLANT FRITTERS WITH SICHUAN PEPPER jiao

1> y^n^

g^ yj^

^ ^iQ^

m

These

substantial snacks offer a tantalizing combination of tex-

tures: crisp batter lent

meat

center.

just like the

and buttery eggplant

surrounding a succua fish-fragrant sauce

one used to drape simple deep-fried eggplants (see

ply with a dip of it.

flesh

They are often served with

page 285), but here

need

yan qie bing

The

final frying. In

I've

suggested an easier version, offered sim-

ground roasted Sichuan pepper, and

recipe can be prepared

Chengdu, the

in

fritters are

salt

if

you

advance right up to the

made with

long, thin Asian

eggplants, which don't need salting. The eggplants are peeled then

chopped

into "sandwich slices" {lian jia pian),

where the

blade stops short of the cutting board on alternate cuts, so the lots of pairs of slices that are

still

joined together at

knife

final result is

one end. The

filling is

simply stuffed between these "sandwich slices" before they are dipped into

the batter.

Serves 4 as a starter or as part of a Chinese meal

301

land of plenty

I

large eggplant (about

2

1

ounces)

eggs for deep-frying

oil

TO SERVE

salt

cup ground pork about 3/4 cup cornstarch 1/2 teaspoon soy sauce 1/2 teaspoon Shaoxing rice wine or medium-dry sherry 1/2

1

medium

Peel the eggplant and slice

teaspoon

it

tablespoon ground roasted Sichuan pepper (see page 74)

1/2

tablespoon

salt

thinly (at 1/8-inch intervals). Sprinkle with 3/4

and leave for at

salt

I

least

30 minutes to draw out the bitter

juices.

2 Put the ground pork pinches of

salt,

in

a small bowl.

Add

3/4 teaspoon of cornstarch, 2

the soy sauce, Shaoxing rice wine, and 4 teaspoons of cold

water, and mix to give a soft paste.

3

Beat the eggs, and gradually mix

in

the rest of the cornstarch to yield a

thick batter.

4

When

the eggplant slices are ready, drain them well and squeeze gently to

get rid of as

each

5 Heat

slice

oil

much water

and fold the

as possible. Place a small blob of

slice in half

to enclose

meat

stuffing

on

pushing the edges together.

for deep-frying to about 300° F.

6 Use chopsticks to dip each stuffed eggplant then drop into the deep-frying

meat

it,

stuffing

is

batter should

oil.

slice into

the eggy batter, and

Fry gently for about 5 minutes, until the

cooked through (cut one

fritter in half to

make

sure).

The

be pale in color. Make sure the oil doesn't overheat or brown before the meat is cooked. As they are ready,

still

the fritters

will

remove the

fritters

from the

oil

with a perforated spoon, drain well on

paper towels, and set aside.

7 Just before you want to eat the smoking.

Add

all

fritters,

reheat the deep-frying

until

the fritters and fry for about a minute until crisp and

golden brown. Serve immediately with dips of

302

oil

salt

and Sichuan pepper.

VEGETABLES AND BEAN CURD

VARIATION Vegetarians can stuff their fritters with the following mixture: a generous

I

1/2

teaspoon

light little

to taste. The

salt

mushrooms, very

teaspoons cornstarch; 2 teaspoons cold water; and a

handful of any type of

soy sauce;

time

first

I

made

finely

chopped;

I

this vegetarian version, for

some

friends

were so popular that never even managed to sample them emerged from the kitchen my eager friends had by the time devoured all of them! Even meat-eaters said they were as good as if not in

Chengdu, the

fritters

— better than —the

I

I

—

real thing.

ZUCCHINI SLIVERS WITH GARLIC chao nan gua

One

it

my

si

made with

a small,

round

zucchini-like vegetable that the Sichuanese call southern

gourd

of

favorite simple stir-fries

{nan guo). The flesh

is

is

cut into fine slivers and stir-fried with garlic

as a delicious side dish.

gourd, but zucchini are

I

have found no exact equivalent to this

fairly similar

and taste good cooked the

same way.

Serves 2 with one main dish, 4 with three other dishes

'»*N4'*

a generous pound zucchini

i

1/2

teaspoons

chopped

salt

finely

garlic

2 tablespoons peanut

1

Cut the

zucchini into thin slices and then into very fine slivers.

oil

If

you have

them with about half a teaspoon of salt and leave them for about 30 minutes to draw out some of their water this improves their time, sprinkle

—

final

texture and reduces the cooking time.

2 Heat the

oil in

a

wok

over a high flame

until just

the garlic and

stir-fry briskly until

and mix

making sure you scoop the

well,

it

is

fragrant. garlic

beginning to smoke.

Then add

all

Add

the zucchini

up from the base of the 303

land of plenty

wok

and toss

3-4 minutes

with the

it in

slivers.

Continue to

stir-fry

over a high heat for

the zucchini are just tender, seasoning with

until

Turn onto a serving

salt

to taste.

plate.

CAULIFLOWER WITH SMOKY BACON la

Cauliflower

rou shao hua cai

thought to be native to the eastern Mediter-

is

ranean and has only been used

with a

stock and sesame

in

little

smoky bacon,

strong-tasting bacon cauliflower,

and

chicken fat

in

until

it

China for a couple of hundred

Sichuan you occasionally see

years. In

dressed

in

is

it

is

oil,

as in

it

blanched and cold-

more commonly cooked the following recipe. The pink,

but

it's

an appealing contrast to the pale, bland

tastes even better

if

you use

a

little

lard

or

the cooking. You can blanch the cauliflower

first,

you wish to cut down on the

last-

almost cooked,

if

minute cooking time.

Serves 2 with one other dish, 4 with three other dishes

1/2

3

a cauliflower (about 2/3

pound) ounces slab (unsliced) bacon or pancetta

1

2 cloves of garlic

2 tablespoons peanut

oil

cup everyday stock (see page 3 8) or chicken stock salt and white pepper to taste 2 1/4 teaspoons cornstarch mixed with 3 teaspoons cold water 1

or

lard

I

Cut the cauliflower into florets small enough to be picked up with chopsticks. Slice the stem thinly. Cut the bacon into thin strips. Peel and thinly slice

304

the

garlic.

VEGETABLES AND BEAN CURD

2 Heat the

oil

bacon and

until

grant

it,

is

3

is

Remove ing,

over a high flame. When

about 30 seconds

fragrant.

Add just

the

Throw

wok

with a

lid

until

it is

stir-fry for

it is

smoking, add the

cooked and smells

it

to a

boil,

deli-

another 20 seconds or so

the cauliflower and mix

in all

the stock and bring

then cover the flower

wok

the garlic and continue to

too,

oil.

lard in a

stir-fry for

Add

cious.

or

it

season with

and cook for about 5 minutes

into the frasalt

until

to taste,

the cauli-

tender

lid

to allow the liquid to reduce slightly and adjust the season-

adding pepper to taste. Then add the cornstarch mixture, stirring as the

liquid thickens.

Serve immediately.

FRIED EGGS

WITH TOMATOES

fan qie chao dan

tThis

dish

is

not peculiar to Sichuan, as

it is

eaten

all

over China.

does, however, frequently appear on Sichuanese menus, and

^1TT^J

^

•

Jy!/

simple and delicious that Like

many simple

ply by

I

thought

stir-fries, this dish

I

would include can be

made

reducing the quantities and adding a

it

in this

into a

bit of

it's

It

so

book.

soup sim-

stock (see

instructions below).

Serves 4 with three other dishes

4

medium

2 scallions, green parts only

eggs

pound ripe, fleshy tomatoes (about 2)

and pepper peanut oil

salt

1/2

I

Beat the eggs together and season with

tomatoes

in half

and

slice

them

salt

and pepper to

fairly thinly. Finely slice

taste.

Cut the

the scallions.

305

land of plenty

2 Season the wok, then add 3 tablespoons of until

smoking. Pour

and heat over a high flame

oil

the egg mixture. As soon as the egg has formed a

in

skin over the base of the

wok, add the tomatoes. Then wait

half-cooked and mix everything together. Stir-fry gently

cooked and the tomatoes remain

light

and

onto a serving

Add

fluffy.)

until

until

the egg

the egg

overcook the

the scallions,

once or twice, and then

stir

egg:

it

just

is

just hot. (Don't

is

should slide

dish.

VARIATION Fried egg and gle

tomato soup

and heat

until

slightly

omelet

and a

sinoil,

Do

not break up the omelet: allow

golden on the bottom, then I

3 eggs

smoking. Then add the beaten eggs and slide them around

the base of the wok.

Add about

dan tang): Use only

as above, add 1-2 tablespoons of peanut

{fan qie jian

wok

tomato. Season the

flip

it

or

boil.

become side.

(You can break up the

your guests serve themselves from

let

sticks at the table.) Adjust the seasoning,

to

over and cook the other

quart of stock and bring to a

at this stage

it

it

with chop-

add the tomatoes and, when they

are just cooked, add a few green leaves for color (romaine lettuce, baby

bok choy, or pea shoots a scattering of scallions

will all do).

Pour into a soup bowl and serve with

desired. This soup

if

often eaten at the end of a

is

Sichuanese meal.

PICKLED STRING BEANS WITH

GROUND PORK rou

This simple dish

1^

which gives them

dou

Sichuanese

The

meat and

Because of the

few

spices.

cooking, but

a gentle salty-sourness

They are then

a

home

it

is

string beans are steeped briefly in

their crunchy texture.

dish a day or

306

typical of

also served in restaurants. a brine,

Jf' ^

is

mo Jiang

two before you wish to

stir-fried

pickling,

eat

and preserves

with just a

you must plan

it.

Stryt% 4 as part of a Chinese meal with two or three other dishes

little

this

VEGETABLES AND BEAN CURD

1/2

pound

peanut oil for cooking 3-4 Sichuanese dried chiles,

string beans

pickling solution (see page 71) 1/4

pound ground lean pork

snipped in half, seeds discarded 1/2 teaspoon whole Sichuan

teaspoon Shaoxing rice wine or mediunn-dry sherry 1/2 teaspoon light soy sauce 1/2

pepper

salt

1

Wash and

trim the beans and then dry

them thoroughly. Immerse them

the pickling solution and leave the pickling jar

in

in

the refrigerator or a cool

place for 1-3 days.

2 Shortly before cooking, place the pork

3

Chop

a

in

wine, soy sauce, and 3 generous pinches of

bowl with the Shaoxing

salt;

mix well and set

rice

aside.

the beans into 1/8-inch slices to complement the small grains of the

ground pork. 4 Season the wok, then add until

smoking.

Then

tip

Add

I

tablespoon of

the pork and

oil

stir-fry until

and heat over a high flame it

is

dry and a

little

5 Return the

wok

to the flame with

I

tablespoon of fresh

oil.

When

the

hot but not yet smoking, add the chiles and Sichuan pepper and briefly until in

crispy.

the meat back into the marinating bowl.

stir-fry for

stir-fry

them burn. Throw another minute or two until the

they are fragrant, taking great care not to

the beans and pork and

oil is

let

beans are hot and fragrant. Turn out onto a serving plate.

307

land of plenty

STIR-FRIED MIXED VEGETABLES si

pO

zhong shu

When was

a student

etable dishes

—

I

in

cai

Chengdu,

a fresh and colorful

this

textures.

"^^^

Bar. The sliced lotus root, as always,

was

a specialty of a

has a fabulous crunchy feel

cook and makes

in

little

restaurant called the

are entirely flexible

—

The

Bamboo

looks beautiful and exotic and

the mouth. This dish

some

a refreshing contrast to

flavored Sichuanese dishes.

favorite veg-

medley of contrasting tastes and

Jt^

It

was one of my

is

very easy to

of the

more

highly

quantities of individual vegetables

just try to use a

good balance of

colors.

Serves 4 with two or three other dishes and rice

Ml a

smallish

(about I

1/3

cucumber

a handful or two of snow peas

pound)

or haricots verts or green beans (about 1/4 pound) 4 tablespoons peanut oil

section of lotus root (about 1/3

pound)

a 2-inch piece of fresh ginger large tonnato (about 1/2

salt to taste

I

pound)

1

Cut the cucumber eat this as

I

in half

lengthwise and scoop out the seedy part

prepare the rest of the food). Cut each

2 inches long and cut these lengthwise into Sprinkle with 1/4 teaspoon of

salt,

mix

well,

(I

like

to

half into sections

about

rectangular

slices.

fairly thin

and leave to drain while you

prepare the other vegetables.

2 Scrub the lotus root thoroughly, scraping off the outer skin grubby. Then cut into thin, round slices

tern of holes utes to slice

in

it.

in

remove any excess

a

bowl of

—each one

lightly salted

will

it's

really

have a beautiful pat-

cold water for a few min-

starch and prevent discoloration. Peel and thinly

the ginger.

3 Cut the tomato

tops and

308

Place

if

tails

if

in

half

and

slice fairly thinly.

Wash

the beans, trim off the

necessary, and cut into 2-inch sections.

VEGETABLES AND BEAN CURD

4 Heat the

oil in

wok over a

a

fry until just tender.

wok

high flame until smoking.

Remove with

Add

the beans and

spoon and set

a slotted

aside.

stir-

Return the

to a high flame, add the ginger, and stir-fry until you can smell

its

fra-

two until some more

grance. Then add the lotus root slices and stir-fry for a minute or

they are hot and just cooked. until piping hot. Finally,

until hot,

Add

the cucumber and

stir-fry

add the prefried beans and the tomatoes and cook

seasoning with 1/2-3/4 teaspoon of

toes are just cooked but

still

intact,

salt

to taste. When the toma-

turn everything onto a plate and serve.

LOTUS ROOT IN SWEET-AND-SOUR SAUCE tang cu ou pian

This

is

ing in

a colorful, fun dish that

Chengdu. The patterned

my

friends and

slices of lotus

-TfX

the serving dish and draped

\Sm^

tered with bright red tomato and

1^

^

a rich

in

used to enjoy eat-

sweet-and-sour sauce scat-

brilliant

green scallion leaves.

The lotus slices themselves look so extraordinary them is always a slightly surreal experience.

that cooking

Serves 4 with two or three other dishes

2 sections of lotus root (about

pound) 2 ripe tomatoes (about 1/3 pound) peanut oil for deep-frying 2/3

FOR THE SAUCE green parts only 1/4 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons white sugar

3 scallions,

tablespoon Chlnkiang or black Chinese vinegar 3/4 teaspoons cornstarch 3 3/4 cup everyday stock (see page 3 18) or chicken stock 2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh ginger 2 teaspoons finely chopped I

garlic

2 teaspoons

I

I

root are piled up on

Scrub the lotus roots thoroughly and cut them into

sesame slices

oil

1/8 inch thick.

309

land of plenty

Each round

have a beautiful pattern of holes

slice will

into a bowlful of lightly salted

in

it.

Put the slices

water to soak for a few minutes while you

prepare the other ingredients.

2 Cut the tonnatoes into

slices just

under

and then cut these

1/2 inch thick

into small cubes. Thinly slice the scallion greens.

3

Combine the stock

in

4 Drain the lotus oil

sugar, vinegar,

salt,

and cornstarch with a spoonful or so of

a small bowl.

and pat dry with a paper towel. Heat the deep-frying

slices

over a high flame

until

beginning to smoke.

and fry them for 30-60 seconds

until

all

but about 3 tablespoons of the

later use.

Return the

20-30 seconds

for

and bring to a the sauce a in

boil.

stir

wok

until

Add

the lotus root slices

all

they are cooked and about to start going

brown. Remove with a slotted spoon, drain 5 Pour

Add

up on a serving

well, and pile

plate.

into a heatproof container for

oil

to the heat, add the ginger and garlic, and

they smell delicious. Pour

in

stir-fry

the rest of the stock

the tomatoes and cook for a few seconds, then give

and add

it

to the wok. Mix as the liquid thickens.

the scallion greens, remove from the heat, and mix

Pour the sauce over the waiting lotus

slices

in

Finally, stir

the sesame

oil.

and serve immediately.

BRAISED SILK GOURD bai you

A^ •^ ^

»

^ttf

,A

310

The long pale,

silk

spongy

gua

si

or loofah gourd flesh.

Because of

{si

gua) has a thick, coarse skin and

this texture,

plenty of stock or water.

In

which

slices of

is

almost soupy, the

their garlic-flavored

it is

best cooked with

the following everyday Sichuan dish,

gourd are

beautifully

sauce. There are two main

tender

in

varieties of silk

The Sichuanese use the plump, pale Luffa cylindrica, which can be found in some Southeast Asian grocers; most Cantonese

^^jj^

gourd.

>V

food shops stock the thinner Luffa acutangula, which has sharp ridges

in its

dark green skin (the Cantonese

call it

see-gwa).

VEGETABLES AND BEAN CURD

Serves 4 with three other dishes

2 1/2

pounds

silk

gourd (3-4

cup everyday stock (see page 3 8) or chicken stock

3/4

gourds)

1

salt to taste

5 cloves of garlic

tablespoons peanut

3

1

Remove the or a sharp

3

oil

teaspoons cornstarch mixed with 6 teaspoons water

thick outer skin from the silk gourds using a vegetable peeler

Cut them

knife.

lengthwise.

in half

Cut each

half into 2 1/2-inch

sections and then into slices about 1/8 inch thick. Peel and thinly slice the garlic.

2 Heat the

Add Add

a

oil in

wok

the garlic and

over a high flame

stir-fry for

the sliced gourds and

pour

in

the stock.

Simmer

stir-fry for

for

until

it is

about 20 seconds

just beginning to until

it

smoke.

smells delicious.

another minute or two, and then

3-4 minutes

until tender,

seasoning with

salt

to taste.

3

Finally, give

the cornstarch mixture a

as the liquid thickens,

stir

and add

it

to the wok. Stir briskly

and then turn out onto a serving

dish.

BEAN CURD Bean curd {dou

fu,

more commonly

nutritious and versatile of

all

transliterated as tofu)

is

one of the most

Chinese foods. When Westerners think of bean

curd, they usually think only of the thick, white blocks of bean curd, or perhaps

of the

smoked or

flavored varieties that are

sometimes

available in health

food

many

vari-

two

stores or Asian supermarkets. These, however, are just eties of

bean curd enjoyed

white bean curd curd

in thin,

is

in

China.

large

most Chengdu markets, the standard

available in several consistencies; there

firm slabs with a

honey-brown surface {dou

of firm bean curd that have been fu);

In

simmered

brown squares of "bean curd

bean curd with an Edam-like texture hua); and ripe-smelling

in

is

also

smoked bean

fu gan); glossy

chunks

"five-spice" broth {wu xiang dou

skin" {dou fu

{su

of the

p/);

sausage-shaped

rolls

of

dou j/); tender "flower" bean curd {dou

fermented bean curd

in chili

sauce (dou

fu ru).

— land of plenty

Bean curd of protein. ally

made

made from soybeans, which

is

The raw

beans, however, are not easily digestible, so they are usu-

into bean curd before they are eaten.

lows: dried soybeans are soaked

overnight.

are an exceptionally rich source

The

method

basic

is

as fol-

plenty of cold water for several hours or

in

They are then ground with

water to make "bean curd milk"

fresh

and strained through a double layer of cheesecloth to remove the solid beany dou zha

residue (the residue

sometimes cooked, dou zha ya

zi).

The

strained milk

The

either bittern or gypsum.

and

lined with cheesecloth

setting curd

—can

be used as animal feed, but

boiled, and then a coagulant

is

liquid

left

finally

is

expel excess water; for "flower bean curd"

bean curd

is

made by

laying slices of set

wood

Chinese legend has

fire until

it

in it

a special

is

left

added,

is

bean curd press to

to set naturally and then

until

it

required.

is

wooden

curd onto a

Smoked

rack above the

they are golden-yellow.

that bean curd

was the invention of

king of Huainan, Liu An. This legend, however, originates Li

in

a second-century

a

much

later text,

Shizhen's encyclopedia of medicinal plants {ben cao gang mu), which

written during the Ming Dynasty

in

Bean curd can be eaten

its

is

a tenth-century

supposed invention by the Huainan

king. All

that by the Song Dynasty (960-1279 A.D.)

in

was

the sixteenth century. According to Chi-

nese scholars, the earliest written reference to bean curd

work by Tao Gu, long after that is known for certain is become a popular food.

also

poured into a wooden mold

returned to a wokful of water to simmer gently

dying embers of a

is

to set. For the ordinary white bean curd, the

squeezed beneath a weight

is

it

"duck with bean curd residue,"

as in the Sichuanese dish

it

had

any number of ways. Smoked bean curd can be

eaten directly, as a snack, and various types of "dry" bean curd are chopped

up and dressed

in

spicy sauces.

of ripe blue cheese,

white bean curd initial

in

is

all

Fermented bean curd, the Chinese equivalent

eaten as a relish or used its

is

marinades. The

common

manifestations can be braised, sometimes after an

deep-frying, or added to soups. Before

bean curd

in

usually left to soak for a

it is

used

few minutes

in

in

cooking, this kind of

very hot,

lightly salted

water, which heats the curd and removes any lingering taste of the coagulant.

Gourmets is

insist that

make the bean curd some places in Sichuan

the quality of the water used to

a crucial determinant of

its flavor.

For

this reason,

with particularly fine water sources are celebrated for their bean curd,

Xiba county

312

in

the south of the province.

In

like

nearby Leshan, where the giant

VEGETABLES AND BEAN CURD

Buddha draws many

visitors,

there are specialist "Xiba bean curd restaurants"

made with

that offer thirty or forty different dishes

fresh Xiba bean curd.

POCK-MARKED MOTHER CHEN'S BEAN CURD ma

Ma

%^ /Br\

po dou

fu

is

named

po dou

after the smallpox-scarred wife of a

Dynasty restaurateur. She to eat lunch on their

prepared

said to have

is

matic, oily dish for laborers oil

fu

who

down

laid

way to the

their loads of cooking

markets.

city's

most famous Sichuan dishes and epitomizes

^

culture, with

^

rants.

its

fiery peasant

Many unrecognizable

imitations

restaurants worldwide, but this

restaurants

make your

your throat.

It's

named

after

lips tingle pleasantly,

rich

one of the

It's

Sichuan's culinary

cooking and bustling private restau-

is

served

are

in

the Chengdu

Old Mother Chen. The Sichuan pepper and the tender bean curd

and warming, a perfect winter

will slip

in

Sichuan cooking, where pork

its

is

crispness. Vegetarians

dish.

is

the most

precooked and added to the main dish

The

common

is

spoons

will

of chile-red

work), although oil

it's

if

if

on

chiles.

enjoy the

still

no leeks are

you wish

on top. For the deepest ruby-red

heartily in a bowl, rather than

2-3

minute to preserve

Ma

available.

(as little as 3 table-

traditional to serve this dish with a

bean paste and ground Sichuanese

Serves

oil

unusual

suan miao, the long, narrow Chi-

nese leeks, but scallions are often used as a substitute

You can reduce the amount of cooking

is

meat. Sometimes the

at the last

may omit the meat altogether and

traditional vegetable ingredient

down

dish.

This recipe traditionally uses a scattering of ground beef, which

beef

Chinese

in

the real thing, as taught at the

Sichuan provincial cooking school and served

will

Qing

this spicy, aro-

good

layer

color, use real Sichuan chili

po dou

fu

is

usually served

a plate.

as a main course with or)e vegetable dish

and

rice,

4 with three other dishes

313

land of plenty

1

block bean curd (about

cup everyday stock (see page 3 8) or chicken stock teaspoon white sugar 2 teaspoons light soy sauce I

I

pound) 4 baby leeks or 2 leeks 1/2 cup peanut oil 6 ounces ground beef 2 1/2 tablespoons Sichuanese chili bean paste tablespoon fermented black beans 2 teaspoons ground Sichuanese

1

I

salt to taste

4 tablespoons cornstarch

mixed with 6 tablespoons cold water

1

teaspoon ground roasted Sichuan pepper (see page

1/2

chiles (only for chile fiends)

1

Cut the bean curd tly

into

I

74)

-inch cubes

simmering water that you have

angle into thin "horse ear" slices

I

and leave to steep

lightly salted. Slice

Add

3 Turn the heat

oil

is

it

crispy and a

to medium, add the

until

the

oil is

beans and ground chiles and

chili

bean paste and

Add

a rich red color.

in

the stock,

stir-fry for

stir well,

wok

another 20-30 seconds

—do not

stir

wok scoop

until

they

oil.

it

in

gently

gently from the edges to

or the bean curd may break

with the sugar, a couple of teaspoons of soy sauce, and

mer

stir-fry for

and add the drained bean curd. Mix

by pushing the back of your ladle or the center of the

little

the fermented black

are both fragrant and the chiles have added their color to the

4 Pour

until

dry.

down

about 30 seconds,

the leeks at a steep

and heat over a high flame

the minced beef and stir-fry until

brown, but not yet

very hot or gen-

1/2 inches long.

2 Season the wok, then add the peanut smoking.

in

salt

up.

Season

to taste. Sim-

for about 5 minutes, until the bean curd has absorbed the flavors of

the sauce.

5

Add

the leeks or scallions and gently

add the cornstarch mixture

in

stir in.

two or three

When

they are just cooked,

stages, mixing well, until the

sauce has thickened enough to cling glossily to the meat and bean curd.

Don't add more than you need.

Finally,

pour everything

scatter with the ground Sichuan pepper, and serve.

314

into a

deep bowl,

VEGETABLES AND BEAN CURD

HOMESTYLE BEAN CURD jia

^

Homestyle

^^

vor,

which

ness

•«•

name

the

is

given to a particular type of Sichuanese

It

is

on Sichuan

usually based

although there are dozens of variations

Some

used.

a

recipes

call

home

cooking

is

becomes

it

this dish

vegetarian dish.

(I

the bean curd

in

In

and flavorsome

bles give an attractive splash of green.

cook

bean paste,

the additional flavorings

chiles.

As the name

suggests, this

can be used to cook extravagant ingre-

sea cucumber.

juicy

in

chili

inspired by the hearty simplicity of Sichuanese

cooking, although like

fia-

for fermented black soybeans or sweet

soybean paste, others pickled style of

dients

ally

fu

salty-savory and moderately hot, with a hint of sweet-

is

the sauce.

in

chang dou

this in

recipe, the

puffy

bean curd

the hot, beany sauce. The vegeta-

Although Sichuanese restaurants gener-

with meat, the pork can easily be omitted to give a delicious

almost always cook the vegetarian version myself.)

If

you

advance or buy bean curd that has been deep-fried,

extremely quick to make. And do remember that

it

also tastes

good

fry

it

is

cold.

Serves 4 with two or three other dishes as part of a Chir)ese meal

block of bean curd (about

1

white and green parts,

I

pound) optional: 1/4

sliced diagonally into

pound lean

"horse ears" cups everyday stock (see page 3 8) or chicken stock 1/2 teaspoon sugar 1/2-1 teaspoon light soy sauce 3/4 teaspoon cornstarch mixed with 1/2 teaspoons cold water

bacon peanut oil for deep-frying 2 tablespoons chili bean paste

I

1

3 cloves of garlic, sliced, plus

an equivalent amount of fresh ginger, also sliced 3

1

baby leeks or

into square slices 2 inches long and about 1/2 inch thick.

Thinly slice the pork

2 Heat

oil

I

scailions.

Cut the bean curd

1/3

if

you are using

it.

for deep-frying to a very high temperature.

315

land of plenty

3

Add

the bean curd slices

in

batches of 7 or

utes until puffy and golden (they should

8,

still

and deep-fry for a few minbe white and juicy

inside).

Drain well and set aside.

4 Season the wok, then heat 2 tablespoons of

wok and

oil

over a moderate heat.

If

Add the chili bean paste and stir-fry until the oil is red and richly fragrant. Add the garlic and ginger and fry until they, too, are cooked and fragrant. Add the stock and bean curd and bring to a boil. Turn the heat down slightly, season using the pork, add

it

to the

stir-fry until

with sugar and soy sauce to taste, and simmer for uid

is

sauce.

smells delicious.

it

3^

minutes

until

the

liq-

reduced and the bean curd has absorbed some of the flavors of the

Add

the leeks or scallions and

stir briefly until just

cooked.

Finally,

scatter the cornstarch mixture into the center of the wok, stir until the

sauce thickens, and turn out onto a serving plate.

VARIATION Bear's

paw bean

bean curd

wok

until

is it is

"like a bear's

curd: this exotic-sounding dish

not deep-fried but fried toasty and golden

paw"

(bear's

paw

for conservation reasons).

is

in

in

a

little

places, lending

is

oil it

named because the

on the surface of the a

puckered appearance

a legendary Chinese delicacy,

Cooking the bean curd

than deep-frying, unless you do

so

this

now banned

way takes longer

a very wide, flat frying pan.

it in

FISH-FRAGRANT BEAN CURD yu xiang dou fu

The f\\\

following recipe

is

my

recreation of a wonderful dish served

by a former student of the Sichuan cooking school rant: juicy,

in his

restau-

tender chunks of bean curd infused with the teasing

flavors of the classic "fish-fragrant" ingredients: pickled chile, ginger, garlic, if

and scallion.We ate

as a cold starter, but

it's

equally,

not more, delicious eaten hot. The gentle simmering allows the

bean curd to absorb bean curd chunks

more 316

it

iuice

and

in

flavor.

all

the richness of the sauce. You can cut the

half

before you begin so they draw

in

even

VEGETABLES AND BEAN CURD

Serves 2 as a main dish, 4 as part of a Cliinese meal

peanut oil teaspoons

3

1

finely

chopped

fresh ginger 3

teaspoons

(if

finely

chopped

to deep-fry the bear)

garlic

instructions in the preceding

white parts only, sliced at a steep angle into

recipe)

slices

1/2

I

cup everyday stock (see page 3 18) or chicken stock 2 teaspoons light soy sauce teaspoon sugar 1/4 teaspoon salt 3/4

inches long

("horse ears") 2 tablespoons pickled

chili

I

paste Heat

3

tablespoons of peanut

smoking.

Add

not burn. Turn the heat

Add

oil

in

a

wok

over a high flame

the ginger, garlic, scallion, and pickled

for a minute or so until the

2

you wish

curd yourself, follow the

3 scallions,

1

package deep-fried bean curd (about 1/2 pound)

oil is

down

if

salt.

about 10 minutes,

Mix

red and richly fragrant, taking care

the time

is

right

well, turn

stirring

evaporated and the sauce

down

because the

just

it

does

reduced to a oil will

boil,

and season with soy

the heat, and simmer gently for

from time to time is

until

paste and stir-fry

necessary.

the bean curd and the stock, bring to a

sauce, sugar, and

chili

until

little

red

the stock has mostly oil.

You can

tell

when

begin to sizzle as the last of the stock

disappears.

3 Pile the bean curd chunks on a serving dish and sprinkle with the bits of chile, garlic, ginger,

and

scallion

from the wok. Serve hot or

cold.

317

4

stocks and soups STOCKS You

need stock to make

will

enrich the sauces of instead

if

cious the

all

all

book. A good stock

in this

testing

quantities.

The

finer the stock, the

most of the recipes

and freeze

it

in

—

I

more

deli-

book have used an make it in large quanti-

in this

everyday stock made from pork bones and chicken ties

will also

kinds of other dishes, although water can be used

you only need small final dish. In

the soups

I

small containers of various sizes.

Most Sichuanese cooks use the simple everyday stock tang) for general purposes.

Some

gu tou

{xian tang,

made

recipes require the use of a stock

with only one main ingredient, such as pure chicken stock tang, "original stock"). Vegetarians use a stock

sprouts, which are thought to have a

good

made by

(this

is

boiling

called yuan

up soybean

(xian) taste.

EVERYDAY STOCK xian tang

This

is

the Sichuanese all-purpose stock, used for

soups and sauces.

^ «« ^"3^

that you'll need the superior recipe nourishing, and easy to make. tionally reared

318

It's

all

kinds of

—

not good enough for banquet cooking

^^-P"

If

below

—but

it is

for

inexpensive,

you use good bones, from

or organically produced animals and fowl,

tradiall

the

better.

Good

nominal

fee.

butchers

will

probably give you the bones free of charge or for a

Make the stock

when you wish

batches, which can be quickly defrosted

restaurants a whole chicken left

when

of the carcass

dishes. You can

I've

is

often used, but

I

removed the breast and

to use them.

leg

meat to use

larger bones. Put

all

scallions, turn

and

liquid

down

let cool.

boil,

Cover, keep refrigerated, and use

I

it

it.

BANQUET STOCK te zhi qing

#

and skim.

the heat, and simmer gently for

within a few days, or freeze. Skim off the fat each time you use

Some

other

the meat and bones into

with enough water to cover, bring to a rapid

FINE

in

you have them.

a couple of scallions

Smash the chicken carcass and

2-3 hours. Strain the

In

what's

in

with peel, crushed

parts (wings, backs)

Fill

if

smaller

in

2-inch piece of fresh ginger,

I

Then add the ginger and

it

generally just toss

add some duck or duck bones too

about 2 pounds of pork bones about pound of chicken

a large pot.

and then freeze

large quantities

in

of Sichuan's

tang

most expensive banquet dishes

rely

on the

superb quality of their stocks, which are traditionally made with chicken, duck, pork bones, and ham. The following recipe

from one

in

is

adapted

the textbook of the Sichuan Culinary Institute. For

best results, you should use mature, female chickens and ducks,

free-range or organically reared.

NOTE Sichuanese cooks

raw meat, which sic

method

is

first

stocks by adding pastes

clarify their

rise

made from

to the surface, collecting the scum. The clas-

to use a "red paste"

made from minced pork mixed with made

an approximately equal quantity of water, and then a "white paste"

from chicken breasts, again pummeled to

a paste

and mixed with an approx-

imately equal quantity of water.The cooked pork paste

is

discarded, but the

319

land of plenty

cooked chicken breast mixture can be

up with cheesecloth and

tied

left in

the clarified stock for another hour, at 200°F, to improve the clarity of the liquid

and

its flavor.

Straining the

cooked stock through cheesecloth, how-

ever, gives a perfectly respectable result

I

and

pound chicken pieces

5

free-range or organically

I

I

use at home.

quarts water

scallion,

I

reared birds

I

the method

a 2-inch piece of fresh ginger, unpeeled

(drumsticlcs, thighs, necks,

wings, etc.), preferably from

I

is

white and green

parts

pound duck pieces pound pork spare ribs pound ham, preferably

teaspoon Shaoxing rice wine or medium-dry sherry salt and white pepper I

Smithfield, without rind

1

For best

by blanching

begin

results,

(except for the ham)

in

boiling

impurities, and then rinse

2 Place

all

all

the meats and

them under the

the meats and poultry pieces

in

tap.

Crush the ginger it

slightly

with the

flat

Discard the blanching water.

a large pot,

bring to a boil over a high flame. Skim off any

object and add

poultry pieces

water to remove any remaining blood and

scum

cover with water, and

that rises to the surface.

side of a cleaver blade or a heavy

to the stockpot along with the scallion and Shaoxing rice

wine. Then cover the pot and simmer very gently over a low flame for about 3 hours.

3

When

Skim

off

the stock

any

is

fat that

gathers on the surface from time to time.

ready, strain

it

into a clean pot, using cheesecloth or a

very fine sieve. Season with about a teaspoon of

salt

and a couple of

pinches of white pepper (do not use black pepper, which

will

damage the

clear appearance of the stock).

SOUPS In

Guangdong and other

a meal, to

parts of southern China, soup

"open the stomach"

however, soup

is

{kai wei)

is

eaten at the start of

and refresh the appetite.

served at the end of the meal, and

its

function

is

In

Sichuan,

to cleanse the

palate after the intense, heavy flavors of a typical Sichuanese meal. For this rea320

STOCKS AND SOUPS

son, Sichuanese soups tend to be clear and delicately flavored. Little effort goes into preparing

them

the

in

home and

in

everyday restaurants

— most recipes

begin with a simple stir-frying, followed by the addition of stock and "white"

seasonings

and white pepper). The

(salt

Common

salted.

examples include pickled vegetable and noodle soup, bean

curd soup with a few

leafy

greens and tomato

soup (see page 306). Dinner guests pluck the with chopsticks and eat them with rice

they

fill

slices,

and

fried egg

solid pieces

and tomato

from the soup bowl

—when they have eaten

their

fill

of rice,

the rice bowls with soup, which they eat with china spoons or simply

drink from the bowl. The soup washes

nothing

soup should be pale and under-

final

is

down any

stray rice grains, ensuring that

wasted. The Chinese always speak of "drinking soup," not eating

it.

For grander meals, the soup has the same character, although the ingredients

used may be exotic and the stock

Some soups

are

more

is

of a finer quality.

substantial, including

perhaps a whole

fish

or duck,

but again the solid ingredients tend to be eaten separately and the clear soup

on

its

own

soup that

is

at the end.

so popular

One in

notable exception

is

the hot-and-sour type of

the West. Hot-and-sour soups are thick with

sliv-

ered meat and vegetables and intensely flavored. This type of thick soup

known by a distinctive term, geng, which when it referred to a mixed meaty soup or

qing dun quart

^ Jt

^ ^.

/\^jL

This

is

STEW

ji

a Sichuanese version of that universal tonic, chicken soup,

which brings comfort to the mind and body. The cooking method is

designed to bring out and enhance the chicken's natural

vors

—the

ginger, scallions,

any lingering rankness. Salt

^^p^

is

Dynasty,

stew.

SIMPLE CHICKEN

"^

Zhou

dates back to the

fla-

and wine are merely used to dispel is

added cautiously

at the end, just

before the dish goes to the table. The soup can be eaten Sichuanstyle, at

ion.

If

the end of the meal, or with bread

you wish to be Chinese about

soup, either

in

one

large

it,

in

the Western fash-

serve the chicken

bowl or spooned into

your guests can pluck out the

in

the

individual bowls:

flesh with their chopsticks

and

then drink the soup directly from their bowls. Any leftovers are a wonderful

321

land of plenty

base for a simple noodle soup (just cook the noodles separately water, and then add

them to a bowlful of seasoned chicken some chicken meat if you like).

in

boiling

stock, with a few

blanched vegetables and I

whole chicken, preferably an

2 scallions, white and green

organically reared bird

parts

(about 4 pounds)

2 teaspoons Shaoxing rice

wine or medium-dry sherry salt and pepper to taste

a 1-inch piece of fresh ginger,

unpeeled

1

Optional

first

return to a juices,

step: plunge the chicken into a

boil.

Remove and

drain (this

is

pot of boiling water and

done to remove the bloody

which improves the flavor of the finished stew).

2 Slightly crush the ginger with the side of a cleaver or a heavy object. Wash

and trim the scallions and break them into a few long sections.

3

a pot

or casserole dish with just enough water to

Place the chicken

in

cover

1/2 quarts).

it

(2 1/2-3

accommodate the

It's

chicken: this

amounts of water, so the

best to use a pot just large enough to

way you won't have to add excessive

soup

final

will

be

richly flavorful. Bring the liquid

to a boil over a high flame and skim off any scum that rises to the surface.

Add

the ginger, scallions, and wine, then turn the heat

gently, half-covered, until the chicken

from the bone

(this will

4 Season the soup with salted),

322

simmer

is

down and simmer

very tender and comes easily away

take a couple of hours).

salt

for another

and pepper to taste

5-

1

(it

should be very gently

minutes, and then serve.

STOCKS AND SOUPS

PORKANDWHITE RADISH SOUP guo tang

lian

This soup

^I

is

served at the end of the meal, to wash away the rich

flavors of the

main dishes: because of

salted. The radish slices are clear

»

this,

it

is

usually under-

and crunchy even when cooked,

the pork slices soft and tender. Dinner guests should use their

"^ifph

chopsticks to

the

using a china lian

lift

out

guo tang

slices of

pork and radish and dip them into

they should drink the refreshing

relish. Finally,

spoon or

directly

from their

means something

literally

like

liquid, either

rice bowls.

The name

"even the soup

in

the

cooking pot," which may refer to the fact that even the cooking pot was brought to the table with the

final

soup, marking a thorough conclusion to the

meal.

Serves 4 as a Western-style starter,

FOR THE SOUP pound boneless pork, 1

piece (traditionally fat

4-6

as a final soup, Sichuanese-style

salt and white pepper FOR THE RELISH

one a mix of in

1

and lean meat, with

chiles, preferably

skin)

a

I

Sichuanese 4 tablespoons peanut oil 2 teaspoons whole Sichuan

-inch piece of fresh ginger,

unpeeled 2 scallions, white

generous handful of dried

and green

pepper

parts

3

teaspoon whole Sichuan pepper about pound Asian white I

I

I

I

tablespoons Sichuanese chili bean paste tablespoon light soy sauce tablespoon dark soy sauce

radish (daikon)

I

Bring 2 quarts of water to a boil over a high flame and add the pork.

Return the

liquid to a boil, skim,

Sichuan pepper. Turn the heat

about 20 minutes,

until

and then add the ginger,

down

the pork

is

scallions,

and

to a moderate flame and simmer for

just

cooked. Remove the pork and set

323

land of plenty

aside to cool.

Remove the remains

of the ginger and scallions with a slotted

spoon and discard them, reserving the cooking 2 Wearing rubber gloves, snip the chiles

Heat the

possible.

oil in

Sichuan pepper and

if

wok

them (add

the cooking

a

little

they are crisp and fragrant, taking cool

overheating).

oil is

and discard as many seeds as

over a moderate flame. Add the chiles and

stir-fry briefly until

great care not to burn

the stove

a

in half

liquid.

oil

or remove the

Remove

ted spoon and set them aside to cool. Return the oily

add the

chili

bean paste, and

onds, until the

with the

3

When

oil

oil is

a

stir-fry

deep red and

wok from

the spices with a slot-

wok

to the stove,

over a moderate heat for 30-60 secrichly fragrant.

Turn the cooked paste

into a bowl.

the chiles and Sichuan pepper have cooled down, chop them finely

with a cleaver or with the dishes,

light

in

a

food processor. Add them to the

and dark soy sauces. Mix the

relish well

chili

bean paste

and divide into 4 tiny

one for each person.

4 Cut the pork into the thinnest possible

slices. Peel

the radish, chop

it

into

2-inch sections, and then cut these lengthwise into very thin slices.

5

Return the soup

liquid

to a

boil,

minutes, until they are tender.

add the radish

slices,

and simmer for a few

Then add the pork and simmer

couple of minutes, seasoning to taste with

salt

for another

and pepper. Turn into a soup

bowl and serve.

VARIATIONS The

dishes of relish can be varied as you please.

ply to

mix soy sauce,

chili oil

with

its

chile flakes,

One

quick version

and sesame

oil

Chinese cabbage or winter melon may be used instead of the white

324

is

sim-

to taste.

radish.

STOCKS AND SOUPS

CHICKEN SOUPWITH PICKLED MUSTARD GREENS suan cai

This soup

is

ji si

tang

extremely easy to make and most delicious. The

pickled leaves lend

it

a delicate sourness

and

a pale jade color;

the chicken slivers are cooked so briefly they're tender and velJ^'<m

The Sichuanese would always serve

vety.

this

soup

the meal, to cleanse and refresh the palate, but

^g^

"^^^

A^ ««^^^

^^ "^^^

it

at the

end of

makes

a fine

European-style starter. In

Sichuan this soup

everyday version, which

soup

in

Sichuan,

si

probably the most

tong). To

bean thread noodles begin,

is

a dish for a special occasion.

common

A

more

after-dinner

pickled vegetable soup with bean thread noo-

is

dies {suan cai fen

is

in

make

this soup, just

soak a few dried

hot water for 20-30 minutes before you

and add them to the soup instead of the chicken. Pork

sliv-

ers can also be used instead of the chicken, for a less refined dish.

Serves 4 as a Western-style starter,

4-6

2 small boneless, skinless

chicken breasts (about

as a final soup, Sichuanese-style

3 3/4 1/2

pound)

teaspoons cornstarch

other ingredients pound Sichuanese pickled mustard greens quart good chicken stock salt and white pepper to taste 1/4

FORTHE MARINADE 2 teaspoons Shaoxing rice

wine or medium-dry sherry teaspoon salt 1/2 tablespoons egg white

I

1/2 I

I

Cut the breasts

as evenly as possible into very fine slivers (preferably less

them in a bowl, add the marinade ingredients, and mix well, stirring in one direction. Leave to stand in a cool place for about 15 minutes. Drain the pickled mustard greens and cut them into fine

than 1/4 inch thick). Place

slivers to

match the chicken.

325

land of plenty

wok

or saucepan. When

come

to a

boil,

add the pickled leaves and simmer gently for a couple of minutes

until

they

2 Heat the chicken stock

in

a

have lent their flavor to the broth. Season with

you are serving the soup

at the

the Sichuanese practice and keep

3

Add

the chicken

slivers, using

salt

it

has

and pepper to taste

(if

end of the meal, you may wish to follow it

slightly undersalted).

chopsticks to separate them. As soon as they

are cooked, pour the soup into a deep bowl and serve immediately.

PLAIN STEWED OXTAIL SOUP qing dun niu wei tang

^^ /

Chongqing. A whole many hours, until it is beautifully melty and delicious. The tail is served in a bowl

This wonderful winter soup

S

oxtail

is

simmered gently

tender and the

fat

is

a specialty of

for

of clarified stock, with a dip of red, spicy, salty relish on the side. It's

The

Af\

perfect for a soothing, refreshing end to a Sichuanese meal. dish

these days

i

^

^

closely associated with

is

popular outside the Muslim community. The most

it is

acclaimed oxtail soup restaurant

in

Muslim cooking, although

central

is

made by the Old Sichuan

{lao

si

chuan)

Chongqing, which serves extraordinarily

good Sichuanese food with an unusual emphasis on beef

dishes.

The cooking method that gives the dish its name, qing dun, is way of stewing meat and poultry, gently, in their own juices, without the addition of salt or other flavorings. The ginger, Sichuan pepper, a

and Shaoxing wine don't

really

count as

flavorings: they are just

press the strong, rank taste of beef, which

mets.

The

chicken, similarly,

is

is

much

disliked by

used to sup-

Chinese gour-

not used to give the dish a chicken

flavor,

cunningly to enhance the natural, essential taste of the beef. Salt

added

until

stewing

is

the end, just before the dish goes to the table. This

often used

in

is

but

never

method

of

the medicinal, curative dishes that are a specialty of

Sichuan. They, like this oxtail stew, are about extracting the essences of things,

not about the

326

thrill

of

complex

flavors.

STOCKS AND SOUPS

One

closely related dish

made with

a

is

plain

stewed beef soup

{qing

dun

niu rou tang)

good chunk of beef leg and served with strips of crisp daikon Another is called ox whip soup with Chinese wolfberries {gou

(Asian radish).

and comes with a scattering of

niu bian tang)

qi

devoured

this

my

with enormous pleasure on

sauce.

It

was only

name

later that

another Old Sichuan vitality

specialty,

is

I

had assumed,

penis.

The

dish,

If

you are ever lucky enough to

4-6

2 1/2

1/4

pounds thick chunks

rice

wine or

salt

3- to 4-inch

forthe relish piece of fresh

I

tablespoon peanut

oil

4 tablespoons Sichuanese chili

ginger, unpeeled

2 teaspoons

cup Shaoxing

medium-dry sherry

2 chicken legs

bean paste

whole Sichuan

pepper

1-2 teaspoons dark soy sauce 2 teaspoons

1

ox

for

marvelous restaurant, you have been warned.

of oxtail

a

euphemism

predictably thought to enhance masculine

large oxtail (2-3 pounds) or

1

to the Old Sichuan

first visit

discovered "ox whip" was not, as

and boost the yang energy of the body.

visit this

Serves

I

for oxtail, but actually a

I

sumptuous stock, and the spicy

restaurant, relishing the tender meat, the

a fancy

brilliant scarlet berries.

Remove any remnants

of skin from the oxtail.

through to the center of the

at each joint,

tail

Use

sesame

a sharp knife to cut

the

all

oil

way around,

taking

care not to actually sever the joints. You should end up with a series of rings of flesh that are tail

still

attached to the central

to soak for 20 minutes

juices. Then discard

2 Bring 2

water to

to a boil over a high flame.

ble. Then

cold water to

off as

much

a boil in a large pan.

When

of the

of bone. Leave the

remove some

the soaking water and rinse the

1/2 quarts of

spoon to skim

in

line

of the bloody

tail.

Add

the oxtail and bring

the water has boiled, use a perforated

scum that gathers on the surface

add the chicken, return to a

boil,

and skim

again.

as possi-

Crush the ginger

327

— land of plenty

with the side of a cleaver blade or a heavy object and throw

Add

reduce the heat to a simmer and hours, giving the meat a until

do

really

it is

it,

stir

the soup bubble away gently for several

let

tender and comes away

although one of

my

from the bone

easily

sources suggests simmering

from the pan. Discard the chicken or set the soup through a piece of muslin ble layer of cheesecloth to

scum, and then return

mer

until

Add

the

it

it

remove the

relish,

chili

hours

3

will

and the chicken pieces later. Strain

or colander lined with a dou-

ginger, pepper,

and any remaining

to the pan. Replace the oxtail and continue to sim-

heat the peanut

bean paste and

delicious and the

oil

wok

a

oil in

stir-fry for

until

hot but not smoking.

about 30 seconds

you are ready to

tureen. Season the soup

lightly

with

relish.

If

relish. They

salt

smells

When

the

oil.

to taste, and then pour

you want to be

one pluck pieces of meat from the

it

the oxtail to a big china bowl or soup

eat, transfer

Serve the soup with the

can divide the

until

has turned red. Pour into a small bowl.

paste has cooled down, add the soy sauce and the sesame

When

—

for 7 1/2.

aside to be eaten

a sieve

in

tail

it

beautifully tender.

it is

4 To make the

the

into the pan.

from time to time. The meat should be stewed

3 Toward the end of the cooking time, remove the

5

it

the Sichuan pepper and Shaoxing rice wine. Then half-cover the pan,

it

over the

tail.

really Sichuanese, let every-

with their chopsticks and dip them into

tail

can then drink the soup from their rice bowls. Otherwise, you

tail

and the soup and serve

it

individually, Western-style.

VARIATIONS Plain

stewed beef soup

rump on the bone. Soak stew

it

qing dun niu rou tang: it

for 20 minutes

choose a good chunk of beef

water to cover,

with chicken, ginger, Sichuan pepper, and wine, as

Toward the end of the cooking it

in

time,

in

drain,

and then

the recipe above.

remove the beef from the soup and cut

against the grain into finger-sized strips, discarding bones, skin, or gristly

bits. Strain

the soup, discarding the chicken, and then return the beef to the

pan and continue to simmer. Peel a daikon (Asian radish) or two and chop

328

them

into

fresh

water and add them to the beef stew for

chunky

strips to

match the

beef. Boil the radish strips until soft in

a

few minutes to absorb some

STOCKS AND SOUPS

bottom of the soup bowl,

of the flavors.To serve, place the radish strips at the

add the beef, and then pour over the beef soup. Scatter with fresh coriander (cilantro)

if

desired. Serve with the

chili

bean

described above.

relish

HOT-AND-SOUR SOUP suan

rou

la

si

tang

The combination of hot-and-sour popular

all

flavorings

over Southeast Asia. But whereas

hot taste comes from fresh

in

in

soup dishes

Thai cooking the

Sichuanese version

chiles, in this

is

it is

derived from ground pepper. The classic Sichuanese hot-and-sour

soup

is

^^^^ °^

f^t

^

banquet dish made from expensive ingredients

a

P'S'^

^°°^ tendon

can be varied at

AA

in its

jin)

flavors.

like

a

or dried sea cucumber, but these

because the essence of the dish

will,

combination of

{ti

The hot pepper

tingles

lies

mainly

over the

lips

and warms the heart, while the sour vinegar provides a deep and

^V4^

What

satisfying contrast.

textures that

make

The following

recipe

is

also notable

a treat for the

it

is

is

the combination of

mouth, teeth, and tongue.

made with pork

slivers

and a number of

other contrasting ingredients. Vegetarians can substitute thin strips of bean curd, or a few other kinds of

mushroom,

thinly slivered.

beaten egg whites, drizzled into the hot soup after

it

allowed to set into "flakes." This kind of thick soup

Some cooks add

has been thickened, and is

usually served

in

the

middle of a Chinese meal, unlike the more watery soups that tend to be served at the end.

It

also

The hot-and-sour it

relies

added

Serves

well as a Western-style starter. is

unusual

in

Sichuanese cooking because

more common chile hotness. make a version of this soup at the Sichuan cooking my classmates were shocked at the amount of pepper our teacher so heavily on pepper instead of the

When we school,

works

flavoring style

learned

how

to

— rather amusing considering 6-8 (makes enough

to

fill

their vast capacity for chile eating.

about 8 small Chinese

rice bowls)

329

land of plenty

1/3

pound boneless, tender,

teaspoon sesame oil tablespoon lard or peanut

I

lean pork

I

FOR THE MARINADE

oil

teaspoon Shaoxing wine teaspoon salt 2 1/4 teaspoons cornstarch 2 teaspoons cold water 1

I

I

stock tablespoon Shaoxing rice wine or medium-dry sherry teaspoon light soy sauce teaspoon dark soy sauce

I

4-5 Chinese dried

I

mushrooms

I

ounces fresh or canned

bamboo a

I

salt to taste

ground white or black pepper

shoots

-inch piece of fresh ginger

4 button

mushrooms (about

to taste 6 tablespoons cornstarch

3

mixed with 6-9 tablespoons

ounces) 4 ounces cooked ham,

cold water

3-4 tablespoons Chinkiang or black Chinese vinegar

preferably Smithfield, thickly cut 3 scallions,

1

quarts everyday stock 1

OTHER INGREDIENTS

5

/4

(see page 3 8) or chicken

1/4

green parts only

Place the dried

mushrooms

in

plenty of hot water to soak (they need

about 30 minutes). Refresh the canned bamboo shoots by blanching them in lightly

salted boiling

water for

2 Cut the pork into very

fine strips

nade ingredients and mix the button

slice

them

and place

well. Peel

mushrooms and

shoots into very fine

a couple of minutes.

strips.

cut the

When

and thinly

ham

the dried

or peanut

lard

the ginger and

the mari-

the ginger. Thinly slice

mushrooms

Cut the bamboo

are reconstituted,

in

them

in

a large serving bowl.

oil.

oil

stir-fry for

in

a

saucepan or

about 30 seconds

shoots, ham, and dried and fresh

Then pour 330

Add

thinly too.

Drizzle with the sesame

bamboo

slice

into thin strips.

3 Thinly slice the scallion greens and scatter

4 Heat the

a small bowl.

in

the stock and bring to a

wok

until

over a high flame. Add it

is

fragrant. Toss

mushrooms and

boil.

stir a

in

the

few times.

STOCKS AND SOUPS

5

When

the liquid

spoon

and discard.

with

salt

boiling vigorously, skim

is

Add

and pepper to

should give

it

6 Add the pork

taste. The

a really spicy kick

strips

away any scum with

soup should be well

salted,

in

and the pepper

without overwhelming the other

flavors.

and use a pair of chopsticks to separate them. When

they are just about cooked, give the cornstarch mixture a the soup

a perforated

the Shaoxing rice wine and soy sauces, and season

a couple of stages, mixing well

seconds to thicken before you add a

little

and add

stir

and allowing the

more. Add

just

it

enough corn-

starch to give the soup a nice heavy, glossy consistency without making gloppy.

You

will

to

few

liquid a

it

probably need just over three-quarters of the mixture,

depending on the exact volume of the stock. 7

Finally,

cious,

—enough to

turn off the heat and add the vinegar

mellow sourness without making

on to the

scallions

and sesame

oil in

it

give the

taste actually vinegary.

soup a

deli-

Pour the soup

the serving bowl, and serve immediately.

WEB SOUP WITH QUAIL EGGS AND BAMBOO PITH FUNGUS

JADE

yu

^ «•'

*

.<^ 'Hr j

vJ-»

The bamboo pith fungus {Dictyophora species) grows in the bamboo forests of southern Sichuan. Here, the landscape is miraculous, beautiful. The bamboo grows lavishly and intensely green, arching over isolated farmhouses, quivering

%Mji, I

wang zhu sun tang

Within the forest the

thin,

in

smoke-green bamboo trunks

smooth and unadorned, exploding overhead leaves. Cataracts spill

and boulders. The

down

air

the gentle breeze.

the rocky

rise

into a lushness of

hillsides,

over red earth

buzzes with the chatter of birds and

is damp and moss-grown, moist and oozing. The Bamboo Sea isn't only a place to wonder at the

insects. Everything

scenery stuffs.

cacies,

—

it's

also a source of natural medicines and exotic food-

Several different varieties of

and there's also the bamboo flower

bamboo lichen,

are regarded as deli-

which grows on the 331

land of plenty

bamboo

itself

mountain

texture; and

bamboo

{zhu hua); tender

chiles;

frogs,

which can be braised with wild

the famous "ox-liver" mushroom, with

numerous other wild

heavy, gelatinous

its

According to Sichuanese gourmets,

fungi.

however, the "king of mountain treasures," the "empress of the magnificent

bamboo

The fungus

main part of the

topped by

and can be eaten fresh, but

fine

clear stocks,

It

most commonly served

is

where

and Sichuan pepper to delicious fallen leaves of

the

its

effect.

bamboo

also cultivated by local farmers.

is

China, but the Sichuanese fungus

fungus has been eaten If

you

visit

the

in

a darker cap with a forbidding

also dried and packed off to other parts of

is

it

slithery,

appearance can be most appreciated, but

on the

is

The

When

sliced,

chicken stock, and a

The

dish, a visual

with chiles

which grows

pith fungus,

grows

plant

in

some other parts of fine. Bamboo pith

regarded as particularly at least

Tang Dynasty times.

mushroom

balls,

its

"eggs"

in

Chinese {zhu

through which the mature fungus

brown and

usually

about the

size of a small

they reveal unexpected treasures: a rainbow of layers

of pink, white, and gray gelatinous flesh, with a

up within. Local cooks

stir-fried

springtime, you can sample the extraordi-

in

eventually bursts, are a pale, pinky

it

sold at a premium, but the plant

is

nary volvae of the unripe plant, which are known as

tangerine.

soup dishes

in

crunchy texture and lovely

also had

I've

Wild bamboo

forest,

China since

Bamboo Sea

sun dan). These plump

overhung by a

is

plant, including the parasol, has a delicate fragrance

the province and the country.

based on

is

pith fungus (zhu sun).

has a phallic-looking central section, which

delicate lacy white parasol and smell. The

the fungi,"

all

stir-fry

little garlic,

and textural

lacy,

embryonic fungus curled

these slices with the palest of flavors

—

salt,

nothing to detract from the main ingredient.

delight,

is

unforgettable.

Dried bamboo pith fungus can be bought for a reasonable price

in

Chi-

nese supermarkets. The individual fungi are bundled together, but after soaking they

extend to their

original form.

The

quail's

following recipe, but they can be hard-boiled instead

eggs are poached if

you

in

the

prefer.

Serves 6

whole dried bamboo

1

5

1

2 quail eggs

pith

fungi (about 1/2 ounce)

332

I

I

M quarts good

chici<en

stocic salt

and

vy^hite

pepper to taste

STOCKS AND SOUPS

1

Soak the

become

fungi in lightly salted hot

soft

any gritty

and

bits.

sors, then cut

Then

silky.

rinse

water for about

them

5 minutes, until they

1

under the

well

tap,

washing away

Snip off and discard the bases of the fungi with a pair of scis-

them

into 2-inch sections.

the fungi into smaller pieces

2 Bring the stock to a

if

Cut the

necessary.

and season with

boil

(Sichuanese cooks would tend to undersait

and simmer gently

parasol sections of

frilly

for 10-15 minutes

until

it

and pepper to taste

salt

it).

Add

bamboo

the

fungus

has absorbed the flavors of

the stock.

3 Bring

some water down to

the heat

poach to your

to a boil

liking.

When

wish and place the eggs pith fungi,

a shallow pan,

in

add a

little salt,

simmer and break the eggs

a gentle

and then turn

water to

into the

the eggs are done, trim off any raggy bits

in a

serving bowl. Top with the prepared

if

you

bamboo

pour over the seasoned stock, and serve.

CHICKEN ''BEAN CURD" SOUP ji

The elaborate

«

dou hua

culinary trick has long been a part of Chinese

food culture and

is

a

measure of the great sophistication of Chi-

,^

nese cuisine. Vegetarian dishes that look and taste

?>

fish

are a notable feature of cooking

restaurants, but

'7y '

in

in

Buddhist monasteries and

the following Sichuanese specialty, an appar-

made from expensive

ently plain vegetarian dish turns out to be

chicken breast. The chicken into

a

of curd

kind

"flower" bean curd that

is

meat or

like

that

is

pummeled to

looks

exactly

a popular peasant snack.

a

puree and then set

like

the

As they

say,

inexpensive it's

"flower

bean curd without the beans; chicken without the appearance of chicken" {dou hua bu yong dou, chi is

most

delicious, with

ji

its

bu jian

ji).

Apart from being

witty, this gentle

fine stock, dainty garnish of leafy greens,

soup

and scat-

tering of dark pink ham.

333

land of plenty

6-8

Serves

about

ounce cooked ham,

I

5 large

i/2

a few tender green leaves of baby bok choy, cabbage, or bibb lettuce

2 tablespoons cornstarch

2 boneless, skinless chicken

teaspoon Shaoxing rice wine or medium-dry sherry salt and white pepper

mixed with 2 tablespoons cold water I

breasts (about 1/2 pound) I

1

egg whites (about

cup)

preferably Smithfield

3/4 quarts chicken stock

chop the cooked ham and set

Finely ing

aside. Blanch the green leaves in boil-

water and then refresh immediately under the

2 Remove as much

them

in

a

tap. Set aside.

and tendon as possible from the chicken breasts. Place

fat

food processor with about

I

cup of cold chicken stock and whizz

to a very fine paste. Transfer the paste to a large bowl. Use your hand to

mix

in

another half-cup of cold stock. Combine the egg whites and corn-

starch mixture and add

them to the chicken

a

little

at a time.

Use your

hand to whip everything together thoroughly after each batch, before the rest

is

added. Stir

in

the Shaoxing rice wine and about 3/4 teaspoon of

3 Bring the stock to a

then pour

it

all

sticking to the

boil.

Give the chicken mixture another good

into the stock. Give

it

one good mix to prevent

bottom of the pan and then

back to a very gentle simmer and leave chicken "curd" has set and

is

it

leave

it

salt.

stir it

and

from

alone. Bring the pan

for about 5 minutes, until the

thoroughly cooked.

4 Put the blanched green leaves into your serving bowl. Then gently scoop the chicken curd into the bowl, taking care not to

let

it

disintegrate too

much. Strain over some of the clear stock, and then scatter with the

chopped ham. 5 Serve immediately.

334

STOCKS AND SOUPS

CHICKEN BALLS qing tang

A

^JL

\y^^

CLEAR SOUP

IN ji

yuan

bowl of clear soup, with pale chicken

—

leaves

drifting

chicken ing

balls

this

are

made from white

wisps of green

balls floating,

Sichuanese banquet soup. The

a favorite

is

breast meat, with a

little

season-

and some egg white and cornstarch to help them keep their

shape. Sichuanese chefs usually beat the chicken breast to a paste using only the back of their cleaver blades.

helps to

make the

final

chicken

a food processor, the recipe

^

i-^> J

but

still

tional

chicken ator,

method,

I've

laborious, but

wonderfully smooth.

like

If

you use

easier to make,

to try the tradi-

given instructions below. Please note that the

little in

advance, kept

4-6

in

cold water

in

the refriger-

as a Western-style starter, 6 as a final soup, Sichuanese-style

2 skinless, boneless chicken

salt

breasts (about 1/2 pound)

I

-I 1/4 quarts clear chicken

stock 3-4 egg whites (1/2 cup) tablespoon chicken fat or lard

Remove and

and white pepper

tablespoons cornstarch mixed v/ith 2-3 teaspoons

1/2

cold v^ater

a handful of bok choy leaves

or napa cabbage leaves

I

1

little

and then reheated when you wish to serve them. They freeze very well too.

Serves

I

a

much quicker and

is

unusual and delicious. For those who'd

can be cooked a

balls

balls

It's

discard the large tendons

in

the chicken breasts and any

visi-

or smaller tendons. Put the meat into a food processor

ble wisps of fat

with 1/4 cup of the stock and whizz to a really smooth paste.

2 Transfer the chicken paste to a decent-sized mixing bowl and add the egg whites

in

several stages, mixing

in

one

direction. Take care to blend in each

batch of egg white thoroughly before you add the next.

mixture by hand, separating your fingers so they work but you can use a

whites are of

salt.

Mix

all

wooden whisk

if

It is

best to

like a

stir

the

kind of whisk,

you'd rather not get mucky. When the egg

incorporated, add the chicken fat or lard and 1/4-1/2 teaspoon

well,

still

stirring in

one

direction. Finally, add the cornstarch mix-

335

— land of plenty

ture and

stir

3

more

for 3-5 minutes

You should end up with

a mixture

Blanch the green leaves

in

the mixture has stiffened

until

about the consistency of cake

slightly.

batter.

water and then refresh them

a little boiling

in

cold water to keep their color.

4 Bring a large pot of clean water to a

on one burner, and heat up the

boil

remaining stock on another.

5

When

the stock

is

hot, dip the green leaves into

absorb some chicken flavors and then serving bowl. Leave the stock to

6

When

the water has boiled, turn

hands to make the chicken

lay

simmer

it

balls:

down

them

it

in

for a

few seconds to

the bottom of a deep

gently.

to a gentle simmer.Then use your

take a small handful of chicken paste

in

thumb side up. Gently squeeze the paste up through the hole between your thumb and index finger until you have a blob about the size of a cherry tomato. Use your other hand, palm up, to

one hand and make

a gentle

fist,

scoop the blob from the top of your simmering water.

It

fist

and drop

it

very gently into the

best to hold this hand very close to the surface of

is

the water so the chicken

ball

holds

its

shape. Repeat until you have used up

Simmer the chicken balls for about 3 minutes until they are just cooked, and then transfer them to the serving bowl with a perforated spoon. You may wish to cook them in two or three batches. all

7

the chicken paste.

Finally,

season the stock to taste with

chicken

balls

and green leaves

in

salt

and pepper and pour

it

over the

the bowl. Serve immediately.

VARIATION Meatball soup

jiu

zi tang: for

more everyday

soup,

make the meatballs

from pork instead of chicken, use an egg or two instead of egg white little

finely

the stock

itself,

taking care to skim off any

Finally,

sliced

paste.

scum

Cook

the meatballs

in

that rises as they cook.

add a few pretty vegetables to the soup: perhaps bok choy leaves or

pea shoots, soaked

tomatoes.

bowl, you

336

chopped ginger to the

and add a

only,

buds {huang hua), soaked cloud ear mushrooms, or

lily

When

may wish to

you have gently poured the soup into the serving

scatter over a few slices of green scallion.

STOCKS AND SOUPS

TO MAKE THE CHICKEN PASTE BY HAND Pummel the chicken breasts with the blunt side of a cleaver blade, or use two cleaver blades held side by side, until they are really pulpy. Keep turning the pile of paste to

ensure an even pummeling, removing any

wisps of stringy white tendon. When you have lay

made

visible

smooth paste, board and draw the

a pretty

the cleaver blade almost parallel to the cutting

blade across the pulp, smearing the paste to the board so you can see and

remove every

tendon. The reason for using

last

this

laborious

method

rather than a food processor or the sharp side of the cleaver blade

you won't chop up the tendons, so with

them

all

whole, giving the

final

a

little

is

that

patience you can remove

smooth

paste a superlatively

texture.

SIMPLE BEAN CURD SOUP dou

fu

tang

This amazingly simple soup

cooking and

Serves I

large

is

is

typical

of everyday Sichuanese

often drunk at the end of the meal.

4-6

tomato (about

1/3

pound) 1/2 pound bean curd quart everyday stock (see page 3 8) or chicken stock

salt

and pepper

a generous handful of bok

choy leayes or napa cabbage leaves

I

1

1

Cut the tomato

in half

Cut the bean curd

very gently simmering,

Wash

and then into thickish

slices

lightly salted

the leaves, discarding any tough

2 Bring the stock to a

boil

water to refresh for

a

few minutes.

bits.

and season to taste with

salt

drained bean curd and simmer for a few minutes to of the stock.

(about 1/8 inch thick).

into squares of a similar thickness and leave in a pot of

let

and pepper. Add the it

absorb the flavors

Add the tomato slices and cook for 10-20 seconds until they Add the leaves, stir once or twice and then pour everything

are just tender.

into a serving bowl.

33^

1

swGGt dishss UNUSUALLY AMONG THE WORLD'S GREATEST CULINARY nations, the Chinese traditionally have

sweets and candied

New

Chinese

Year,

fruits

most meals are

very small quantities as a seasoning.

wok

treasure

little

may be enjoyed

taste for sweetness. Although

as nibbles, especially

around the

entirely savory, with sugar used just in

One

or two sweet dishes, such as eight-

pudding, do occasionally feature on banquet menus, but they

are always served as an intermediate course and rarely at the end of the

meal as

in

the Western dessert tradition. Various sugary dumplings and other

sweets are sold by Sichuanese street vendors: recipes for some of these can be found

in

the chapter on street food (page 84).

FUNGUS

SILVER EAR

IN

CRYSTAL SUGAR SOUP yin'er

4k

geng

This exotic-sounding soup has a wonderful texture. The dried fungus, in

soaked and steamed

until

it is

meltingly soft,

translucent, diaphanous waves. The liquid

is

lolls in

the soup

heavy but not sickly

sweet. Sweet soups are a curious idea to Westerners, but they do

make

a refreshing

and intriguing conclusion to a meal. This one

sometimes offered Sichuanese snacks,

338

as a sort of final digestif after a

when

it is

served to each guest

in

is

banquet of a separate.

tiny bowl.

when

it

have also enjoyed

I

served

is

in

Chinese medicine,

one

silver

large

but

I

at the

end of a more standard Chinese meal,

bowl and dished up

is

seen as particularly nutritious for the elderly.

prefer the simplicity of the recipe below.

you can also simmer

it

and leave

Serves

it

to stew gently

in

Most cookbooks suggest steam-

over a very low flame

time to time to prevent sticking) or do as

my

(stirring

Sichuanese friend Peng

Li

from does

an electric crockpot.

4-6

ounce dried

silver

fungus

1

According to

restaurants add a few peeled tangerine segments or pineapple chunks,

ing the soup, but

1/2

at the table.

ear fungus moistens the lungs and replenishes the yin

energies of the body.This soup

Some

it

pieces

if

I

3

Soak the fungus any hard

ear

bits

in

cup rock sugar, crushed cups water

hot water for about 15 minutes

and impurities with your

fingers,

until soft. Then pick

and tear

it

out

into smaller

necessary.

2 Dissolve the sugar

in

the water over a gentle flame.

Add

the fungus and then

transfer to the top of a double boiler or to a bowl that you can place

in

your

steamer. Bring the water at the bottom of the double boiler or steamer to a boil, cover,

and steam over a medium flame for 2 hours.

Remember

to

replenish the steaming water from a boiling kettle as necessary.

3 Serve hot (although

it's

also delicious cold).

339

land of plenty

EIGHT-TREASURE

WOK PUDDING

ba bao guo zheng

/\

This sweet dish, often served at Sichuanese banquets, has a moist

cakey texture a

reminiscent of

little

some

is

studded with delicious pieces of

is

served alongside savory dishes, but

Indian

sweetmeats and

and walnuts.

fruit

it

In

Sichuan

it

can also be eaten as a

Western-style dessert.

4-6

Serves

ounce mixed candied peel, 1/2 ounce

tablespoon walnut kernels 3/4 cup peanut oil or lard about 3 ounces (6 tablespoons, total) dried or candled fruits, as varied as possible (perhaps 1/2 ounce dates, ounce candied

cherries,

I

I

dried blueberries)

cup all-purpose flour cup boiling water 1/2 cup sugar I

I

I

1

Fry the walnuts

medium

in just

enough

to cover them (about 1/4 cup), over a

oil

flame, until they are golden and fragrant.

Remove,

drain,

and chop

into small pieces.

2 Finely chop

the dried and candied

all

3 Heat the rest of the

a

wok

stir-fry for

tom

of the wok. Turn the heat

the mixture

turning a

is

little

over a medium flame. Add stirring constantly

down

if

the flour

is

all

the flour

and scraping the bot-

at risk of burning.

When

yellow and smells cooked and cakey, stand

back from the

wok

whoosh up out

of the wok). Stir well and add the rest of the water. Stir

the sugar, give dried

then

340

oil in

about 10 minutes,

and

fruits.

fruits.

tip

it

Mix

onto

a

and pour

some

in

few seconds to

of the boiling water (steam will

dissolve,

well, adding a little

more

and then mix

oil

a serving plate. Eat while hot.

if

in all

in

the nuts and

necessary to moisten

it,

and

SWEET DISHES

EIGHT-TREASURE RICE PUDDING ba bao fan

/\

When

this sticky rice

the white

mound

pudding

of rice

died fruits and seeds.

is

The

turned out of

is

steaming bowl,

with a mosaic of dried and can-

inlaid

rice

its

is

sweet and succulent, steaming

hot. "Eight-treasure" refers to the selection of fruits

which may include dried

ju^

peel.

^^ff\^

The most important

and seeds,

buds, Chinese dates, and candied

lily

thing

is

just to have a nice

mixture of

colors and tastes, so feel free to be creative with whatever's

your pantry. Slivered almonds and pine nuts would make a

fine addition,

in

and

candied angelica could also be used. Sichuanese cooks make this recipe with lard,

but

peanut

don't

I

oil

—

pudding

this

with a

little

much

works

it

is

like

the taste of

just as well

doused with

it

sweet dishes and have substituted

in

and tastes much

For grander meals

lighter.

a clear sugar syrup, but

cooks often sprinkle

it

white sugar instead. Sushi rice can be used instead of glutinous

rice.

S^r\ez 4 as a dessert, 6 with a selection of savory dishes as part of a Chinese meal

1/4

I

mixed

cups white glutinous

a colorful selection of dried and candied fruits: for example, 10 dried Chinese

sultanas (yellow raisins)

cup white sugar tablespoons peanut

1/2

3

oil

for the syrup

dates, 2 tablespoons dried

1

citrus peel, 2

tablespoons large, pale

rice

cup white or crystal sugar water

blueberries, 6 candied

2/3

cherries, 2 tablespoons cut

2 tablespoons

Rinse the rice thoroughly under the cold tap, then leave

it

to soak

in

plenty

of cold water for about 2 hours. Put the Chinese dates, blueberries, or any

other dried

2

When I

fruits

to soak

in

hot water.

the rice has been soaked, drain

cup water. Place the bowl

in

it

well and put

it

into a

bowl with

your steamer and steam over a high flame

341

land of plenty

for

20-25 minutes. Then remove from the heat and

peanut

3

Cut the cherries and Chinese dates dates. Oil a shallow

8 inches fruits in

bowl that

in half

the sugar and

will fit into

and remove the stones from the

your steamer

diameter and 2 inches deep). Arrange

in

all

(I

use a bowl that

is

the dried and candied

an attractive pattern on the base of the bowl. The Chinese usually

arrange them

few colorful like.

stir in

oil.

When

in

6 lines radiating from a piece of fruit

bits

and pieces

the pattern

is

rice with

any leftover

end up with

a

full

4 Place the bowl

in

fruits,

bowl of

the center, with a

between, but you can be as inventive as you

in

finished, carefully

the bowl, taking care not to

in

move

add a layer of rice mixture to

the pieces of

and press

it

fruit.

Mix the remaining

gently into the bowl.

You should

rice.

the steamer and steam over a high flame for another 15

minutes.

5

When

the pudding

is

make the syrup. Dissolve the sugar in heat and let it simmer until it reduces to a heavy

nearly ready,

the water over a gentle syrup.

6

remove the pudding bowl from the steamer and cover it with a serving plate. Working swiftly, invert the plate and bowl, turning the beautiFinally,

fully

patterned rice onto the serving dish. Pour the syrup over

immediately.

342

it

and serve

hotpot IF

YOU WANDER AROUND CHENGDU ON A SUMMER'S

evening, you'll find the streets

the sidewalks

in

bling hotpots, in

with diners, their tables scattered across

filled

Many will be gathered around bubchiles bob up and down in an oily red

the shade of leafy trees.

which dozens of dried

broth. There they'll while away the hours, chatting, sipping beer, and dipping

morsels of food into the soup to cook. Hotpot Sichuan's

most popular dishes and

family or friends. Untold thousands

devoted to

it,

and

in

its

literally

"firepot"

of restaurants across the

hometown

Street." Fancy restaurants lavish with

beneath the steel supports of

—

—

is

one of

a favorite excuse for a get-together with

of Chongqing there

is

marble and chandeliers serve

city overpasses,

region are

even a "Hotpot it

up, while

workers hunker down to eat

it,

paying a few j/oo at a time for a skewer of food to plunge into the spicy broth.

The "hotpot" itself, a wok or saucepan filled with a dark, rich soup, sits on a stove, whether it's a charcoal brazier on the sidewalk, a gas burner in a specially cut-out restaurant table, or just a portable burner on the floor at home. Around it, "like stars around the moon," are arrayed dozens of small plates, each piled high with a different ingredient. Slender bean sprouts, crisp green leaves, air-dried sausages,

all

kinds of innards, and

many

varieties of

mushroom

are often favored, but elegant restaurants also serve exotic seafood and

whole

little

fish.

Guests select pieces of food from

drop them into the soup to cook. Then, sips of beer,

they

lift

them out with

cious mixture of seasoned sesame

after a

this

tempting array and

few minutes' chat and

their chopsticks and dip oil

and chopped

garlic.

them

a

few

into a deli-

This style of eating

is

found

pot

is

various parts of China, but the deep-red "hot-and-numbing" hot-

in

unique to Sichuan.

The Sichuanese ably undefined: fancy.

wok

you

is

for hours

someone

Hotpot makes

still

when the meal

is

in

sitting

comfort-

naturally drawing to a close,

exploring the soup for a forgotten

tidbit.

damp-

a fiery winter dish, potent at expelling the creeping

among

ness of the Sichuan winter. But the Sichuanese are peculiar

nese

is

flows, with bursts of enthusiastic gobbling followed

of inactivity. Even

lulls

usually

on end. The end of the meal

cook, and eat, and eat, and cook for as long as you

just

The pace ebbs and

by gentle there

whole days or evenings eating hotpot,

love to spend

around the simmering

eating their spicy hotpot

the Chi-

year round. Even at the height of summer,

all

who

hotpot restaurants are overflowing with customers

fan themselves in the

sweltering heat even as they swallow another mouthful of chile-laden food. Eating Sichuan's "hot-and-numbing" hotpot produces the physical sensation, a

ates out to

all

warmth and

relaxation that begins

in

most

delicious

the belly and radi-

the extremities of the body, soothing away tension and anxiety,

calming the mind and into the broth to

spirit. Early in

enhance

the twentieth century, opium was thrown

this effect,

and used by devious restaurant owners

to make sure their customers came back for more. Today, this practice gal

under China's

strict

drugs laws, but

it

still

is

ille-

crops up occasionally, and

in

recent years a number of Chengdu restaurateurs have been fined the equivalent of

thousands of dollars for slipping opium into their soup. Amazingly,

however, opium poppy heads can

still

sometimes be found

in

the markets of

among the cinnamon bark and star anise as encountered them once during a summer town near Chengdu. Some friends set up a hotpot on

Sichuan, nestling innocently

though they were any other spice. lunch party

in

a small

their kitchen floor and

perceptible change of

we all mood

sat

I

around

it

on

little

stools to eat. There

was

a

as the meal progressed. Conversation at the

beginning was animated, with wit and laughter, but gradually an intoxicated

stupor overcame us

Only

later, after a

notice the

all

and

we

just

fell

long, blissful siesta

asleep,

on armchairs,

Chinese scholars trace the origins of of years. People

in

in

B.C. Lin

my

to

in

a

senses, did

soup over

I

who

back thousands

a fire, an

lived in

the

Hong, a Song Dynasty (960-1279) writer, describes

people cooking broth on a tabletop stove and

anywhere.

the pot.

this kind of eating

China were cooking food

onic form of hotpot, before the time of Confucius,

tury

me

had restored

enormous poppy heads bobbing around

sofas,

sitting

around

it

a

embry-

fifth

cen-

group of

to eat pieces

P45

land of plenty

of a rabbit they'd caught, with each person using a skewer to

meat. But the practice

is

cook

thought to have gained popularity only

and Qing periods (1368-1644 and 1644-191

I),

their

own

the Ming

in

and the fannous eighteenth-

century gourmet Yuan Mei declared that "when entertaining guests on winter days, it is customary to serve hotpot." During the Qing Dynasty, the hotpot was adopted by the imperial court and appeared on the emperor's winter menu. The fashion reached ludicrous heights of extravagance at the feast held to mark the enthronement of the Emperor Jia Qing in 1796, when the imperial kitchen staff laid on no fewer than 1,550 hotpots for the guests! Sichuan hotpot, with its characteristic spicy broth, has more humble origins. It was born on the banks of the river at Chongqing, where bamboo pole-bearing peddlers sold their wares. Meat dealers would haul a load of

water buffalo innards

Then the

in

from the countryside and wash, chop, and parboil

a pot of chiles, Sichuan pepper, and broth

and workers would gather round to

river,

skewer of meat to warm them huo guo)

is

Only

eat,

more elaborate

it.

a stove by

each paying a few

j/oo for a

hotpot" {mao du

up. This original "beef tripe

the grandfather of today's

in

would be set up on

dish.

the 1930s did a Chongqing restaurateur elevate the Sichuan hot-

pot to a restaurant table. Now, more than sixty years

wherever there are Sichuanese people. man's dish and has

become extremely

It

has shed

later, its

the dish

is

enjoyed

reputation as a poor

fashionable. Beef tripe

is still

a popular

menu has expanded wildly since ever more exotic meats, vegetables, and

dipping ingredient, but the original riverside

the early days, with the addition of seafoods.

One

restaurant

I

visited recently offered the following

hotpot menu:

beef tripe, cow's throat tendons {huang hou), squid, crucian carp, {dai yu)y eels, loaches

(n/

qiu),

poultry gizzards, sliced

hairtail fish

kidneys,

pig's

smoked

bacon, Sichuanese cured sausage {xiang chang), rabbit's kidneys, rabbit's stomachs, fatty beef,

goose

intestines, pig's intestines, pig's brains,

luncheon meat,

mushrooms {ji tui gu), framushrooms {mo gu), oyster mushrooms

crispy pork, meatballs, tender beef, "chicken-leg"

grant

mushrooms

{xiang gu), button

{ping gu), golden needle

mushrooms

{jin

zhen

gu),

white seaweed

lettuce stems {qing sun), lotus roots, winter melon,

sheet seaweed {hai

dai),

tiao), cauliflower, jellied

konnyaku yam

jelly

duck's blood,

wood

{mo

yu),

bamboo

{hai bai cai),

shoots, potatoes,

sweet potato noodles

nese cabbage, bean sprouts, Chinese leeks {suan miao), water spinach, buds, rice

jelly,

celery,

chicken kidneys.

346

{fen

ear fungus, bean curd skin, Chi-

tomatoes, various types of

fish,

duck tongues,

frogs,

lily

and

HOTPOT

On

the streets, an inexpensive version of hotpot,

and-numbing scalding broth" {ma

tomers help themselves to

tiny

morsels of food impaled on

which they dip into the spicy soup. A slice

known

single

number

bamboo

skewer might hold

of bean curd, a strip of eel, or a rabbit's kidney. The

simply by adding up the

simply as "hot-

immensely popular. Here, cus-

la tang), is still

skewers,

a spinach leaf, a

final bill is

calculated

empty skewers each customer has acquired.

of

There are many other types of hotpot, too, from the spicy fish-head hotpot served with dips of crushed nuts and coriander, to the fabled "chrysanthemum flower pot," which includes a plate of white chrysanthemum blossoms with

stems and stamens removed

The

original

—

banquet dish of the highest order.

a

Chongqing hotpot

is

the fieriest of

the oppressively humid climate of this "furnace

city."

them

all

—

response to

a

Chongqing people make

much hotter than the popular reckless abandon. The last time

their hotpot with small, pointed chiles that are

Chengdu

varieties,

ate hotpot air

in

and they use them with a

Chongqing, the early

summer

I

heat was already so intense that the

was almost soupy and people were walking around

themselves and mopping their brows. We

sat,

my

in

slow motion, fanning

friends and

I,

by the banks of

the river where the workers used to gather, fighting the steamy atmosphere

with the searing heat of chiles.

In

Chengdu, eating hotpot doesn't have to be

such an intense experience. Most restaurants offer hotpots with a central partition in a "yin-yang" design,

spicy broth and

one

so you can have one

half filled

with a mild soup

half filled

made from

with the traditional fish

and chicken.

SICHUAN HOTPOT si

89

chuan huo guo

Making a Sichuan hotpot to entertain. You can

is

a wonderfully easy and delightful

make the hotpot broth

in

preparing the dipping ingredients doesn't take long. relaxed

X

way

sit

in

It's

also a

of eating, and particularly enjoyable alfresco on a

warm summer's To make

way

advance, and

evening.

this dish,

you

will

need

a portable

burner that can

the center of your dining table, within reach of

guests. The hotpot itself can be a

wok

all

your

or an ordinary saucepan.

you have two cooking rings or a special hotpot

wok

If

with a cen-

347

land of plenty

tral partition,

you can serve

allow people to use

you wish,

a spicy

and a mild soup at the same meal and

them according to

a slotted spoon, a

little

their tastes.

You can also provide,

if

wire net, or even a tea strainer for catching

elusive morsels of food.

SPICY HOTPOT BROTH (hong tang /u) The amounts of chiles and Sichuan pepper used in this broth are very much a matter of personal taste. In Chongqing they use even larger quantities of very hot chiles (often a thin variety from Yunnan called the xiao mi

the following recipe,

I've

suggested using an amount that

but not overwhelming: you can adjust

served with innards.

Many

this

it

if

I

jiao). In

find pleasantly spicy

you wish. The dipping ingredients

kind of hotpot usually include several different types of

are simply unavailable

in

the United States, and unless you have

a real appreciation of texture as the Chinese do, you won't see the point of

them anyway. For these reasons,

eating

I

have offered a

ping ingredients that are both appealing to

Western

the Sichuanese tradition. You can vary them as you

Serves

about

beans 1/3 cup Shaoxing rice wine or

medium-dry sherry

in

keeping with

3 quarts

good beef

stock or everyday stock (see page 3 8) tablespoon rock sugar optional: 1/3 cup Sichuanese 1

fermented glutinous wine

unpeeled 1/4 cup dried Sichuanese

rice

salt to taste

chiles

cup peanut or vegetable

oil

1/2

tastes and

will.

I

a 3-inch piece of fresh ginger,

2/3

of suggested dip-

4-6

MA cup fermented black

1/2

list

I

teaspoon whole Sichuan pepper

cup beef dripping or lard cup Sichuanese chili bean

paste

I

348

Mash the black beans with

I

tablespoon of the Shaoxing wine, either with a

HOTPOT

mortar and pestle or

Wash 2 Snip

in

a

food processor,

the ginger and cut

it

into slices

the chiles into halves or into

all

I

Add

oil in

wok

a

the chiles and

all

over a medium flame

them them

stir-fry

taking great care not to burn

Remove them with

chiles).

3

briefly until

(the

a slotted

dry

it

smooth

oil

it is

hot but not smoking.

they are crisp and fragrant,

should sizzle gently around the

spoon and set

aside.

Pour the cooking

wok

a quick rinse and

thoroughly.

3 Place the beef dripping and the rest of the peanut or vegetable

and heat over a gentle flame

until

turn the heat up to medium.

(250-300°F), add the

oil is

all

richly red

not to burn

it

the

chili

the ginger and continue to I

the

oils

II quarts of the stock

bean paste and

stir-fry for a

stir-fry until

and bring

it

the liquid has

come

to a

boil,

if it is

boil.

danger

in

they are fragrant.Then pour

to a

until

—take care

mashed black beans and

has reddened, add the

about

in

(The rest of the stock

—see page

When

wok

smoke

minute or so

sizzle gently

used for topping up the hotpot as you eat

4

into a

are just beginning to

(you can switch off the heat for a few seconds oil

oil

the dripping has melted completely. Then

When

and fragrant. The paste should

of overheating). When the

I

paste.

tablespoons of the peanut or

until

into a separate container and set aside. Give the

oil

a

-inch sections with a pair of scissors,

and discard as many seeds as possible. Heat vegetable

you have

until

about the thickness of a coin.

will

be

352.)

add the rock sugar and the rest of the

Shaoxing rice wine, with the fermented rice wine

if

you have

it,

and

salt

to

taste.

5

Finally,

add the prepared chiles and Sichuan pepper according to taste and

leave the broth to

simmer

for

1

5-20 minutes,

PLAIN HOTPOT BROTH {bai tang \u) a number of ways of making

There are is

until

it is

wonderfully

this kind of broth. The

spicy.

most elaborate

to follow the instructions for making fine banquet stock on page 319, but

you don't

feel like

being so extravagant, you can use the recipe below.

Sichuanese cooks would enhance the chicken stock by adding

made from

little

if

Many

some stock

crucian carp, which have a wonderful flavor.

349

land of plenty

4-6

Serves

Shaoxing rice wine or medium-dry sherry about 3 quarts rich chicken 2 tablespoons

salt to taste I

ripe red tomato, halved

2 scallions, white parts only,

stock

cut into 2 or 3 sections

the wine into the chicken stock and season

Stir

it

with

salt

to taste. Pour

about 2 quarts of stock into your hotpot and use the rest to top

it

up as

the meal progresses. Shortly before you place the hotpot before your

tomato and

guests, add the

scallions.

DIPPING INGREDIENTS

What you

dip into

greater the variety

hotpot

will be.

your hotpot in

is

very

flavors, colors,

much

a

matter of personal

Preparing the dipping ingredients

you can. Aim for

different kinds as

for a

party of 4-6 people. Buy enough of each ingredient to it

is

at least

8-12

The following foods are

them up on one great recommended

all

platter

Chinese air-dried sausages, cut into short sections chicken breasts, very thinly sliced

pork tenderloin, very

thinly sliced

lean beef or lamb, very thinly sliced

smoked bacon,

kinds, sliced

thickly sliced

firm bean curd, thickly sliced

dry bean curd

350

skin,

pile high a small

soaked

until soft

if

you wish.

as dipping ingredients, but do feel

free to improvise!

all

different ingredients

customary to serve each dipping ingredient on a sepa-

rate plate, but you can pile

cooked meats of

The

also very easy, so buy as

is

many

plate. In Sichuan

taste.

and textures, the more enjoyable the

HOTPOT

shiitake

mushrooms, whole

oyster mushrooms, whole

button mushrooms, whole enoki mushrooms, whole large flat

mushrooms, cut

any other kind of fresh

wood

into

chunky

slices

mushroom

ear or cloud ear mushrooms, presoaked

in

hot water for at least 30

minutes

Chinese dried mushrooms, presoaked

in

hot water for at least 30 minutes

Asian radishes or turnips, peeled and thickly sliced lotus roots, scraped clean, sliced, and soaked

potatoes, peeled, thickly sliced and soaked

in lightly

in lightly

salted

salted

water

water

water spinach, cut into lengths soybean sprouts, whole cauliflower, cut into florets

broccoli, cut into florets

winter melon, deseeded, peeled, and cut into thick

slices

fresh coriander (cilantro)

Less traditional ingredients include:

fresh squid, cut into bite-size pieces shelled

prawns

FORTHE SEASONING sesame

DIPS

oil

peanut or vegetable

oil

35!

land of plenty

plenty of garlic, finely

chopped

(at least

one head of garlic for every 4 people)

salt

EATING THE HOTPOT You can serve your hotpot broth use a wok,

make sure you have

a portable burner

in

a

a

in

wok

wok

or an ordinary saucepan

stand to keep

it

—

stable. Place the

the middle of your dining-table. Arrange

all

if

you

pot on

the raw dip-

ping ingredients on plates around the cooking ring. Give each guest a small rice

bowl and

a pair of chopsticks

and allow them to mix their

own

seasoning

dips: suggested quantities for each person are 2 tablespoons of peanut or veg-

etable

2-3 teaspoons of sesame

oil,

(not crushed) garlic, and

chopped

garlic

salt

oil,

1-2 tablespoons of finely chopped

to taste. Leave the

oils

and

salt

on the table so people can top up their dips

with a bowlful of

as they

need

Bring the hotpot to a boil and allow the beef drippings to melt heating

them from

cook and

eat. Just

cold.

When

it

is

if

to.

you are

bubbling away merrily, you can begin to

encourage everyone to

tip pieces

of prepared food into the

hotpot at their leisure and allow the food to cook. When the food

is

ready,

it

can be fished out with chopsticks, dipped into the seasonings, and eaten. The

whole Sichuan pepper and

chiles are

not meant to be eaten.

Some

kinds of

food, such as bean sprouts, will be ready very quickly; others, such as potatoes, will take several minutes.

As the

more

salt

liquid in if

the hotpot evaporates, top

it

up with fresh stock, adding

necessary. Allow the stock to return to a boil before you con-

tinue cooking. If

you have any food

following day!

352

left

over, the

same hotpot broth can be reheated the

the 23 flavors of Sichuan

Here follows

a brief explanation of the twenty-three

are at the heart of the Sichuanese culinary canon. The

complex first

which

flavors

four are the most

famously associated with Sichuanese cookery, and most of the following seven are also typically local.

The remainder overlap more

significantly

with the

tastes of China's other cooking regions.

1

Homestyle taste

is

flavor {^"^v^M

dishes are described as

The

jio

chang wei

x/ng): This

uniquely Sichuanese

based on the hearty flavors of domestic cooking. Homestyle salty,

savory, and a

little bit

hot {han xian wei

la).

basic seasonings used are typically local: chili bean paste, salt, and soy

sauce. Pickled red chiles, fermented black beans, and sweet fermented

paste can also have a role to

play.

Examples: twice-cooked pork, salt-fried

pork, homestyle bean curd,Tai Bai chicken.

2 Fish-fragrant flavor (|&#i^g!J

yu xiang wei x/ng):

Another celebrated

Sichuanese invention, based on the seasonings used cookery, this flavor combines

heady fragrance of

led red chiles, either chili

salty,

garlic, ginger,

on

their

in

traditional fish

sweet, sour, and spicy notes, with the

and scallions.The core seasoning

own or mixed

with fava beans

in

is

pick-

Sichuanese

bean paste, which give fish-fragrant dishes their distinctive orange-

red hue. Examples: fish-fragrant sauce for cold chicken, fish-fragrant pork slivers, fish-fragrant eggplants.

3 Strange-flavor (I^H^n^gy this

type of flavor

(tian),

is

numbing (ma), hot

{xiang) notes.

No

guai wei wei xing): Also uniquely Sichuanese,

based on the harmonious mixing of salty {han), sweet (/o),

sour (suon), fresh-savory

individual flavor should

{xian),

and fragrant

clamor for the attention

at the

expense of any other; each should be equally stressed. Examples: strangeflavor chicken, strange-flavor peanuts.

353

land of plenty

4

Hot-and-numbing

ma

flavor (liil^il^M

la

we/ x/ng):This

is

the flavoring

most strongly associated with Sichuanese food, particularly with It is based on a delicious double whammy of

style

hearty peasant cooking.

and Sichuan pepper, backed up with

chiles

sesame

sonings, such as sugar, level

of fieriness

Chongqing have

oil,

widely from

varies

say,

of the

city's

to

place

place:

people

the

of

extremely hot-and-numbing dishes, a

a fabled appetite for

consequence, they

and other secondary sea-

salt

and occasionally five-spice powder. The

oppressively

warm and humid

climate.

Examples: hot-and-numbing dried beef, pock-marked Mother Chen's bean

curd {ma po dou ers,

fu),

boiled beef slices

in

a fiery sauce, dry-fried beef sliv-

Sichuan hotpot.

5 Red-oil flavor (.lErEbtl^M hong you wei xing):TU\s describes a delicious mixture of ruby-red oil

thrown

in

chili oil,

soy sauce, and sugar, perhaps with a

for extra fragrance.

It

combines

is

used

in

cold dishes. Example: chicken chunks

6 Garlic paste flavor (^r/gn^M suan

ni

savory

salty (han),

(/o),and fragrant {xiang) tastes with a hint of sweetness

in

little

sesame hot

(xian),

the aftertaste and

red-oil sauce.

in

wei xing).A scrumptious combina-

mashed garlic, chili oil, and sesame oil with a special soy sauce that has been simmered with brown sugar and spices until it is dense and fragrant. This gently spicy sauce is used on cold meat and vegetable dishes. tion of

Example: cold pork

in

hot and garlicky sauce.

7 Scorched chili flavor (#||$n^§iJ hu

la

wei xing):

As

derived from frying dried chiles

its

name

wok

suggests, this

type of flavor

is

crisp, fragrant,

and just turning color; other ingredients are then added and

tossed

in

the chili-flavored

oil.

Sichuan pepper

is

in

a

typically

until

used

in

they are

conjunc-

tion with the chiles, and soy sauce, vinegar, sugar, ginger, scallions, and garlic

are often added to create a savory, with a slightly tricky thing

complex

flavor that

sweet aftertaste {xiang

la

is

han

about making scorched-chile dishes

is

xian, hui wei lue t/on). The

that the cooking

oil

be hot enough to make the chiles fragrant, but must not burn them. that the safest

354

way to achieve smoking hot

this

is

and

fragrant, hot, salty,

to throw the chiles into the

—you can then continue heating the

must I

find

wok

before the

oil is

they

sizzle,

but you don't run the risk of burning them immediately. Exam-

ples:

Gong Bao (Kung

oil until

Pao) chicken with peanuts, spicy cucumber salad.

THE

8 Tangerine-peel flavor {M.Jk^M gives this flavor

its

chen

pi

23

FLAVORS OF SICHUAN

wei xing): Dried tangerine peel

distinctive fragrance, but always against a

background

of hot-and-numbing chiles and Sichuan pepper. You might also find a subtly

sweet

aftertaste. All Sichuanese

cooks warn that you mustn't exaggerate

the amount of tangerine peel you use or the food

type of flavor try.

is

generally used for cold dishes

Example: spicy beef

9 Sichuan

pepper

slices

flavor

will taste bitter.

made from meat and

jiao

(iS(lSa^S!J

ma

wei x/ng):This curious-tasting

from raw Sichuan pepper, which

with green scallions and

and then mixed with a

quality

salt,

little

—

10 Sichuan

slices in

pepper and

Sichuan pepper and sesame

salt flavor (iS(Mi^7|^M

jioo

oil

simple is

used as a dip for hot, deep-fried foods. The Sichuan pepper

is

long.

it; it

Example: stuffed eggplant

Hot-and-sour flavor cally

A

which

roasted the day you wish to use

I

sauce.

yan wei xing):

combination of ground dry-roasted Sichuan pepper and

I

soy sauce and

The Sichuan pepper should give the sauce an amazing numbing not worth making if your Sichuan pepper isn't fresh and it's with fragrance. Used for cold meat, poultry and offal dishes.

Example: chicken

too

mashed

is

oil.

bursting

cally

poul-

with tangerine peel.

flavor derives, oddly enough,

sesame

This

{MM^M

loses

fritters

suan

la

its

fragrance

salt,

if

you keep

typi-

best it

for

with Sichuan pepper.

wei x;ng):This type of flavor typi-

combines the mellow taste of Chinese vinegar with a gentle kick of

ground white pepper against versions use

chili

pastes or

a

background of plenty of

chili oil

salt.

Some

local

instead of pepper; others derive their

sour flavors from pickled vegetables. Most food experts stress that sourness

the base of this type of flavor; the spicy seasonings play an "assist-

is

ing" role. The standard hot-and-sour dish

is

a thick

soup {geng tang) made

with meat, seafood, or eggs, although the same tastes can be used dressing

some

12 Fragrant flavor

curd jiang)

pork

is

in

fermented sauce flavor (W^H^M

created by cooking main ingredients a dense

jiang xiang wei x/ng):This

like

meat, poultry, or bean

brown sauce based on sweet wheaten paste

and soy sauce. slivers

in

cold dishes. Example: hot-and-sour soup.

It

combines sweet and

salty tastes.

{tian

Example:

mian

stir-fried

with sweet fermented paste.

355

3 5 6 7

land of plenty

1

Five-spice flavor spice flavor

is

ground together include

five-spice

as

kinds of

all

simmered

often

(S^p^M wu

xiang wei xing):

As

its

name

suggests, five-

created through the use of several spices, either whole or

in

meat and

powder. Five-spiced foods, which

may

poultry, as well as eggs and bean curd, are

a rich broth flavored with ginger, scallion, Shaoxing rice

wine, and spices, and then served cold (example: stewed aromatic meats).

They can

also be braised in a spiced liquid

which

delicious sticky sauce (example: five-spiced

finally

is

"smoked"

reduced to a

fish),

or steamed

with a spicy marinade (example: fragrant and crispy duck). The spices can

be varied at

will,

but often include star anise, cassia bark, and Sichuan pep-

per (see "fragrant things"

14

Sweet fragrant in its

hot,

the ingredients section on page

flavor (JH^^n^M

sweet dishes made using or candied

ear fungus

a variety of

This flavor

cooking methods.

in

It

is

used

derives

Examples: eight-treasure

fruits.

based on fermented glutinous taste, with

spices.

ents

It is

rice,

typically

x/ng): This

which has a

perhaps the addition of

bamboo

like

wok

pudding, silver

crystal sugar soup.

Fragrant wine flavor (#ff n^iJJ xiang zao wei and

1

tian xiang wei x/ng):

Ixiii).

sweetness from white or crystal sugar, sometimes with the addition of

fruit juices

1

in

salt,

type of flavor

is

delicious, alcoholic smell

sesame

sugar,

oil,

and other

used with meat, poultry, and some vegetable ingredi-

shoots. Example: cold chicken with fragrant rice wine.

{M^^M

Smoked

flavor

ing salted

meat or poultry over smoldering wood and

yon xiang wei x/ng):This flavor

is

created by smok-

leaves. The

Sichuanese

famously use tea-leaves to smoke their duck; other meats can be smoked over

bamboo

leaves, pine needles, rice straw,

peanut husks, or sawdust. Examples:

tea-smoked duck, homemade bacon with Sichuanese

1

Salt-savory flavor vor that

is

(jiScil'^^M

sugar, soy sauce,

356

is

in

used

in

is

and sesame

subtle and they should not

beans

xing):

A

very simple type of

fla-

designed to bring out the natural, fresh, delicious taste {xian wei)

of the raw ingredients. Salt

flavor

han xian wei

flavorings.

the base flavoring; other seasonings, such as oil

may be added, but

overwhelm the

hot and cold dishes. Examples:

a simple stock sauce, chicken

their effects should be

taste of the main ingredient.This stir-fried pig's liver, fresh fava

"bean curd" soup.

THE

18

Lychee flavor {M^'^M actual lychees, but

is

notes stand out a

does not use any

H zhi wei x/ng): This flavor

sweet-and-sour

actually a sort of

more than the sweet,

little

FLAVORS OF SICHUAN

23

in

rather

which the sour

like

the

The

fruit.

sour and sweet tastes are always played out over a background of gentle saltiness.

19

Example: pork

lychee sauce with crispy rice.

in

Sweet-and-sour flavor (HSfP^M

own

their

tong cu wei x;ng):The Sichuanese have

version of this famous Chinese flavor.

It

usually relies heavily

sugar and vinegar against a salty background, and dishes,

it is

when used

20 Ginger juice flavor (^/f-n^M vinegar give this flavor oil

for hot

also flavored with ginger, garlic, and scallions. Examples: sweet-

and-sour red peppers, sweet-and-sour pork, sweet-and-sour crispy

sesame

its

fish.

and

Jiang zhi wei xing): Fresh ginger, salt,

distinctive taste

and fragrance; soy sauce and

some

are also added. Ginger juice sauces are used with

cold

meats and green vegetables and, occasionally, on hot dishes. Examples: green beans

21

in

ginger sauce, steamed pork knuckle

Sesame paste

flavor

{MW'^M

vor used for cold dishes, oil, salt,

on

this

one

in

rna jiang wei x/ng): relies

fine

ginger sauce.

Another type of

on toasted sesame

paste,

fla-

sesame

and chicken stock, sometimes with the addition of soy sauce.

It is

used with various types of innards, as well as one or two different vegetables.

Example: crisp lettuce

22 Mustard flavor

some

(?f t^o^M

cold dishes on

savory

flavor,

in

sesame sauce.

jie

mo

wei x/ng):This type of flavor

summer and autumn menus.

It is

is

used with

based on the

salty-

but with a hint of vinegar sourness and a burst of hot mustard.

23 Salt-sweet flavor

ness and sugar sweetness,

meat and poultry

han

(jDJcSti^Si it

is

tian wei xing):

used

in

dishes. Shaoxing rice

A

combination of

varying proportions

in

salti-

some hot

wine and pepper are usually added,

perhaps with other spices. Example: braised chicken with chestnuts.

357

the 56 cooking methods of Sichuan

The

following are the fifty-six cooking

canon, as listed

in

methods of the Sichuanese

culinary

the 1998 Sichuan culinary encyclopedia published by the

Chongqing Publishing House.

1

chao

'\!p

wok,

a general

:

usually with

oil

term for

stir-frying

as the heating

food cut into small pieces

medium

in

a

{you chao), but occasionally

using salt {yan chao) or even sand {sha chao).

2 sheng chao ^ij;: "raw-frying," stir-frying as above, where the food

when

raw

enters the wok.

it

chao i^M^: "cooked-frying," when it enters the wok.

3 shu

4 xiao chao

5

is

/Jn'J;^:

ruan chao

which the meat

stir-frying in

"small-frying" (see explanation

^i'p: "soft-frying,"

in

on page

is

cooked

43).

which ingredients such

as fresh fava

beans or chicken breast are mashed to a pulp, mixed with water, egg, and starch, and then stir-fried

6 bao

j§

:

in

hot

oil

over a high flame

until

cooked.

"explode-frying," fast stir-frying cross-hatched pieces of crisp ani-

mal foods

like

kidney and poultry gizzards

in

hot

oil

at a

very high tem-

perature.

7

liu

j^g

:

cooked

a type of frying in oil

the sauce

358

is

in

which small pieces of food (often

or steamed and then tossed

in

fish)

a wokful of sauce.

are

first

Sometimes

simply poured over the precooked food on the serving dish.

7

THE

8 xian

liu i^Jtg

draped

9 zha

a variation of

oil is

which soft pieces of in

or poultry are

fish

plenty of gently heated

oil.

then drained off and the sauce ingredients added to the wok.

method keeps the main liu

liu in

an egg white batter and prefried

in

Excess This

:

COOKING METHODS OF SICHUAN

56

ingredients beautifully tender.

"deep-fry liu" a variation of

jfpjtg:

liu

in

which the food

is

first

deep-fried and then added to a wokful of sauce, or turned out onto a serving dish to receive the sauce.

10 gan bian

I

I

jian tu

Ti'^S:

"dry-frying" (see explanation on page 43).

shallow-frying over a

:

medium heat

in

a flat-bottomed pan until

the food, usually flatbreads, pastries, or fried eggs,

is

golden on both sides.

12 guo tie m,^ "pot-sticking," shallow-frying over a gentle heat

tomed one 13

zha

pan. The food

is

not moved, so

side but remains soft

jt^

on

deep-frying food

:

in

it

develops a golden toasty crust on

top.

plenty of

usually over a high flame, until

oil,

it

crisp.

is

14 qing zha

ff'jfp

:

"clear deep-frying," deep-frying

high flame until the outside of the food

not coated 15 ruan zha

coated

in

in

16 su zha

#:'j:^

:

:

jin

in

some

shape, and then fried

zha

warm 18 you

in

is

hot

crisp and fragrant.

oil

over a

The food

is

in

lower temperature and then at a

crunchy but the inside tender.

which the food

is

coated

kind of skin, deep-fried briefly

even hotter

rSi^ "soak deep-frying,"

oil

lin

first at a

food

"crisp deep-frying,"

batter or rolled up its

in

"soft deep-frying," deep-frying of small pieces of food

an egg white batter,

f^'jfp

is

once only

any kind of starch or batter.

higher, so the outside of the

1

a flat-bot-

in

:

:

in

oil until it is

which the food

and allowed to heat up very slowly

rS#: "oil-drenching,"

in

until

crisp

is

it is

in

in

hot

flour

or

to

fix

oil

and golden.

put into a wokful of

cooked through.

which the food, often whole, precooked

359

9

land of plenty

poultry,

held over a wokful of hot

is

crisp and deeply, glossily red

1

qiang

20 hong

'^^

:)it

:

:

oil

and drizzled with the

on the outside but

still

oil until it is

tender within.

another type of frying (see explanation on page 44),

frying gently in a

omelet or eggy pancake,

is

little oil

until

the food, usually

crisp and fragrant

some

on the outside but

kind of

fluffy

and

bubbly within.

21

cuan ^: water

or strips of food, or meatballs and

fishballs, in

they are cooked, either as a soup or as part of a

more com-

boiling slices

until

plex cooking process.

22 tang M: cooking

small pieces of food briefly

done, often as a stage

23 chong

in

water

until just

a longer cooking process.

cooking runny pastelike foods

r4^:

boiling

in

in

oil

or water,

until

they are

cooked and can hold their shape.

24 dun a

j^:

little

until

stewing large pieces of food or whole fowl

in

water, perhaps with

ginger and scallion, over a very low flame and for a very long time,

they are extremely

wei) of the

25 zhu ^:

soft.

Brings out the original, essential flavor {yuan

main ingredient.

boiling large

chunks of food

in

plenty of water until they are

done, either as a primary stage of cooking or to make simple vegetable soups.

26 shao

'j^:

one of the most

universal

a seasoned liquid and then simmering

involves bringing food to a boil

in

over medium or gentle heat

until

reduced and

glossy.

Chinese cooking methods, which

The sauce can

the food

is

soft

and the sauce

it

is

also be thickened with starch just

before serving. The main ingredients are usually precooked by any one of a

number

of methods.

27 hong shao

M.'M'- "red-braising,"

a type of braising

in

which the sauce

includes soy sauce or caramel color to give the ingredients a deep red hue.

360

—

1

THE

QM: "white-braising,"

28 bai shao

56

COOKING METHODS OF SICHUAN

which the sauce does

a type of braising in

not contain strongly colored seasonings, so the pale natural color of the

main ingredient, often

fish,

29 cong shao K'^:"scallion frying of a

few

are added. The

chicken, or vegetables,

30 Jiang shao ^j^

:

emphasized.

braising," a type of braising that begins with the

scallion pieces in final

is

oil;

then the stock and other ingredients

dish has a strong scalliony flavor.

"braising with fermented sauce," a type of braising that

begins with the frying of a

little

sweet fermented paste before the addi-

The main

tion of stock and seasonings.

ingredients are usually deep-fried

before they are added to the braising pan.

3

jia

chang shao ^'^'j^:"homestyle

32 sheng shao ^'^:"raw

braising," braising

simmered slowly with seasonings increased to reduce the a similar

method but

braising" (see explanation

liquid;

until

on page

43).

tougher ingredients, which are

soft, at

which point the heat

is

or tender ingredients, which are cooked by

usually prefried.

33 shu shao ^'M: "cooked

braising," a faster type of braising

used to cook

small pieces of food.

34 gan shao ^j^: "dry-braising" (see explanation on page 35 du

i?g:a Sichuanese folk

method

of cooking (see explanation on page 44).

Chef Xiao Jianming of Piaoxiang Restaurant

says

onomotopoeia, derived from the bubbling sound

made by the

liquid in

36 ruan du #:>g:"soft simmering sauce or

the term du

is

gu-du-gu-du-gu-du

an

—

the wok!

du," also

except that the food

43).

is

known

as "soft-braising" {ruan shao). Like du

not prefried but

briefly

dunked

in

is

either directly added to the

warm, not

hot,

oil.

37 hui ')$: similar to white-braising, but with a shorter cooking time and more liquid. Used to cook two or more ingredients together in a pale, gentle sauce.

361

land of plenty

38 men ^^•. stewing prefried medium flame. The liquid

ingredients

— not

added

in

a tightly closed pot,

much

as

cooking and not reduced.

at the start of the

over a low or

as for other stewing It

methods

—

is

can be thickened

with starch before serving.

39 wei

'j^:

stewing chunks of food with stock, flavorings, and caramel color

or dark soy sauce over an extremely low flame, beautifully

40 kao

']:$:

food

brown and the

liquid

another kind of stewing,

(like bear's

paw or

until

they are cooked and

much reduced. in

which large chunks of rather tough

shark's fin) are

simmered gently with stock,

fla-

vorings, and perhaps a few supplementary ingredients.

41

zheng M: steaming.

42 qing zheng /f^:

"clear steaming,"

pale-colored flavorings

in

which pale foods are steamed with

like ginger, scallion, salt,

and wine, and also some

fine stock.

43 han zheng covered

^s: "dry-steaming,"

dish,

44 fen zheng

steaming food wrapped

with seasonings but no surrounding

"rice-meal steaming,"

f>li?:

in

in

paper or

in

a

liquid.

which various meats and poultry

are mixed with marinade ingredients and a coarse rice meal and then

steamed.

45 kao m: roasting meat, poultry, or fish before a radiating heat source, usually whole, and sometimes filled with stuffing or wrapped in leaves or clay.

46 gua in

lu

kao

fi^'MJif:

"hanging-oven roasting," roasting fowl by hanging them

a closed oven.

47 ming

lu

kao

H^'M'i:#:

roasting meat, poultry, or fish over an open-topped

stove.

48 kao xiang kao

362

'j:%f|'j:f:

"oven-roasting," roasting

in

a closed oven.

THE

49 tang zhan

'^'^^

50 zha shou

'j:^i\^

:

:

seasoned broth rounding

51

lu

encrusting food

seasoned sugary paste or a sugar syrup.

until

they absorb or "receive"

all

in

a

the flavors of the sur-

liquid.

0: stewing foods

in a

|4^:

tossing raw or

53 pao

rfe:

pickling in brine.

zi*

a

COOKING METHODS OF SICHUAN

"deep-fry and receive," simmering deep-fried foods

52 ban

54

in

56

spiced broth.

cooked foods

in

a seasoning sauce, like a salad.

/m: steeping in a flavored liquid.

55 zao zui WM'- steeping

in

liquor {zao

means wine-pickled,

zui

means

drunken).

56 dong

That's

/^: jellying

or freezing.

it.

363

glossary of Chinese characters with definitions

bo - the name of the ancient kingdom based

E

A^ E^

- star anise (literally "eight horns") ba shu - the ancient Ba and Shu kingdoms ba

in

eastern Sichuan

jiao

called Sichuan,

in

the area that

- strong vodka- ike wine bo/ we/ - "white-flavored" ^^11 @ ben CQO gang mu - sixteenth-century encyclopedia

^fg ^B^

bai jiu

1^77

- steamed bun with filling bing tang - rock or crystal sugar cai dao - cleaver

^J|^

cai

^rfi

cai

}7Kli

Ms ^^ ^-^^

of medicinal

i'p

dun - cutting board you

chang Jiang xun -Yangtze sturgeon {Acipenser dabryanus)

chao - to

ij^M

stir-fry

chao guo -

^^W. id;^

chao xiang

chen

l^tP

Bg^

wok

- "facing-heaven" chile (a variety of - to "fry-fragrant" (see page 42)

cliao tian jiao

W.)^

d^Sh

364

zi

- rapeseed oil can dou - fava bean (literally "silkworm bean") cao guo - Amomum tsao-kuo (a type of "false cardamom") cao yu - grass carp (Ctenopharyngodon idellus)

MKM

pi

-

dried tangerine peel

cheng du - Chengdu chi cu - to be cuckolded chi

today

1

plants

fe^ bao

is

and a poetic name for Sichuan

ku - to

(literally

"to eat vinegar")

"eat bitterness" (to suffer)

chile)

)

GLOSSARY

||:p:

chong cao - caterpillar fungus {Cordyceps

mm

chong q/ng - Chongqing

sinensis)

Hang fen - North Sichuan pea jelly Jim chuon yon Sichuanese well salt ^ chui - to pound with the back of a cleaver blade ctiun sun - spring bamboo shoot chun ya - the tender shoots of the Chinese toon tree {Toona

chuan

JlUkr^l^

bei

#^ ^^

sinensis

according to Chinese sources)

M cong - Chinese scallions {Allium fistulosum) M^ cong hua - scallion "flowers" (thin slices) If

^^ §E

- vinegar

cu

cuan he - decorative hors d'oeuvre box

cui

-

a type of crispness (see page 3

i^M

da cong - large scallions

i^^,

da suan -

i^MM

da tou

I

garlic

cai

- preserved

turnip-like vegetable {Brassica \uncea van

napitormis)

i\^^'^ da zhong bian can -"convenient dish ^^^ dai yu - hairtail fish (Trichiurus haumela) 'MMW. deng

longjiao -"lantern peppers" (sweet peppers)

M^^ff^ deng zhan wo

MMM

dian fan guo

T

-

ding

TT^ TiBT,

T#

a

for the masses"

-

xing

- "lamp-dish"

slices

electric rice-cooker

cube

ding ding tang

.^IHi^

-

ding ding candy

ding pei ding,

si

pei

si

- "cubes with

cubes, slivers with slivers"

- cloves - "winter vegetable" (a kind of preserved mustard green) #^ dong sun - winter bamboo shoot sHW dou ban jiang - chili and fava bean paste s.^ dou chi - black fermented soybeans 3.^ dou fu - bean curd S.JM^ dou fu gan - dry bean curd ding xiang

^Ig dong

cai

a.M^^ dou fu nao -"bean curd brain" (standard Chinese name for flower bean curd)

- bean curd skin S.M% dou fu ru - fermented bean curd slE dou hua - flower bean curd a.Ml^ dou

fu pi

365

land of plenty

stE^ffls D^H^Mil dou hua bu yong ,

dou, chi ji bu jian

ji

- "flower bean curd

without the beans, chicken without the appearance of chicken" Sffi dou miao - pea leaves (also known as "dragon's whiskers")

s^

^

dou zha - soybean residue du - a Sichuanese cooking method (see page 44)

^M

du suan - Sichuanese single-cloved garlic

iff^

duan sheng - to "break the rawness" of food

^^W

duan wu

jie

- the Dragon Boat

Festival (fifth

day of the

fifth

lunar

month)

MM^

dun

^'^MM,

tang

ji

- simple chicken soup

duo

^^'Q^l^

chi shu cai,shao

ctii

rou

-"eat more vegetables, eat

less

meat"

HM — M^T

e cliang

— ^fi^ #t?

intestines

-"second-sister rabbit cubes"

Gr jie tu ding

er jin tiao

- "two golden

fan jiao -"barbarian

^GM^M i>fi^

- goose

fei

fen tiao

er bu ni

-

-

(a

cold dish)

strips" (a variety of chile)

peppers" (Ming Dynasty name for

richly fat

chiles)

without being greasy

a type of thick, transparent starchy

noodle made from various

legumes or sweet potatoes

-"phoenix tail" strips - Buddhist vegetarian food he wei - compound flavors

MMfi^ feng wei

tiao

MW^

fo

M'a'^

fu

^Wfi

fu leng pian

"MW^

^

zho/ cai

gcii

wan

clia

-"axe-blade"

-

slices

lid-bowl tea (Sichuanese style of tea drinking)

gan - sweet

- Cheers! Bottoms up! ^'kB gan bian - to "dry-fry" ^:^ gan cao - licorice root {Glycyrrtiiza uralensis) ^MW. gon bai jiao - dried chiles |g0 gan jun - dried fungi J^HIt gan mian zhang - rolling pin Iz'i^ gon shao - to "dry-braise" MM^ goo Hang Jiang - galangal §0j^ ge P^ng - to cut and to cook H g^ng - a l
366

gan

bei

ritual

GLOSSARY

-g-jj^^

gu pai pian -"domino" slices

WMl^

gu tou tang - pork bone stock

^\\

gua - to scrape

^ff^^^ guang gan qing cai - type of mustard green used ^1^ gui pi - cassia bark {Cinnamomum cassia) MJI or ^^. gui yu - Chinese perch {Siniperca chuatsi) |@iE3

guo ba - rice crust

M^

guo chan -

to

make

ya cai

(q.v.)

wok scoop

Mtfi guo you - to "pass through the oil" (preliminary :llv+'!^ guo zhi wei - "fruit-juice flavor" ^o» bai cai - white seaweed {Ulva lactuca) M^'U bai dai gan - dried sheet seaweed

deep-frying of ingredients)

M&M

}§^

bai jiao

MMM Ji^

-"sea peppers" (Sichuan mian - ground chiles

dialect for chiles)

bai jiao

ban (Sichuan dialect) or xian (Mandarin) -

%^

ban

cai

- Sichuan

tif^^ bao xin xiang -

H^M^Sfl^

bao

zi

(restaurant

dialect for liking for

amaranth leaves {Amarantbus

tricolor)

hot and fragrant tastes

dong zbang ya

In

salty

zi

-

Mousehole Duck

Mr. Zhang's

Chengdu)

!^IS^ bong bai cba -"red-and-white tea" (see page 27) 'JSJ^HT bong bao ji ding - fast-fried chicken cubes (see page 238) bong you - chili oil (literally "red oil") ;^lTft bu dou - Sichuanese dialect for fava bean (literally "foreign bean")

^s WMM

bu

!tt§l$IIT

jiao

bu

mian - ground white pepper

la ji

ding

- chicken cubes with seared

chiles (see

^^

bua cba -"flower tea" (jasmine blossom tea)

tbIK

bua jiao - Sichuan pepper {Zantboxylum simulans)

^^^

bua sbeng mi - peanuts

^p^ buang bou ^tb buang bua -

MMM. ^IIT

cow's throat tendons lily

buds

buang jiu cbeng - City of Yellow Wine buang

la

ding

- yellow

^^

buang sban - yellow

Ih]#

bui xiang

-

catfish {Pseudobagrus fulvidraco)

eel (see sban yu)

fennel seeds

- furnace HiiiS ji tui gu - chicken-leg mushroom flP:^s ji yu - crucian carp {Carassius auratus 'X'M.

page 238)

buo

lu

auratus)

367

land of plenty

^'^'j^ |5ff

jia

W^

tCH

chang shao - to "homestyle braise" gan qing

jion

jiong

cai

- type

Wan - Sichuanese

(a

type of braising)

of mustard green used to

dialect

name

make dong

cai (q.v.)

for a type of catfish {Leiocassius

longirostris)

^^ ^

- soy sauce

Jiang you

jiao

-

unit of currency

IKM

jioo fang

^^

jiao zi

WGi

i'n

^itlS

-

jiong

j'n

- "pepper houses" boiled crescent dumplings

- Brocade River

zhen gu - golden needle mushrooms

iMMMMii^ jiu cai ye nnian tiao - chive-leaf noodles 11^ jiu huang - yellowed Chinese chives {Allium tuberosum) ^-jF jiu zi - meatballs MM jue cai - fiddlehead ferns If ^^ kai hua - to burst into flower -"white cabbage in boiling water" kai wei to "open the stomach" (whet the appetite) If ^ kan - to chop 'i^H'J^ kao xiang kao - to roast in an oven

IBtKS^

kai stiui bai cai

fl'

H

-

ke

a tiny cube

kong que kai ping - "peacock spreading

JL'^lflW ^;LN|g

PS "^

kong xin

cai

- water spinach {ipomoea

kou gon - "mouth-feel"

ku - bitter

"^JJi

ku gua - bitter melon {Momordica

^^

ku sun - bitter

^

its tail"

aquatica)

kuai

H^ la

a

kuai zi

i^^fi^

^ ^^

-

-

kuai

ctiarantia)

bamboo shoot

chunk

- chopsticks zi tiao - "chopstick"

strips

hot, spicy

- standard Mandarin Chinese for chile 1$^^ la mei zi - hot, spicy girls ^14:^^0^ la zhong you xian wei - ''xian flavors in the midst of ^ lao - overcooked, tough (literally "old") ^Hjll lao si chuan - Old Sichuan restaurant in Chongqing

^If

la jiao

lao

^^^^kW

368

spiciness"

zao - fermented glutinous rice wine

'eng dan be/

-"a few

cold dishes and a glass of beer" (Sichuanese "tapas")

)

GLOSSARY

1^

//

-

a grain of

MIfi

/')'

H;^^

//

chopped food

-The Book - carp

yu

of Rites

{Cyprinus carpio carpio)

- Lychee Lane M^'^ ^3^5^ Han jia pian -"sandwich slices" STbfi ''01 /luo bo/ - Sichuanese white cabbage {Brassica oleracea van capitata) M-f- fion zi - lotus seeds $4S /'oo jiu - cooking wine SvS ling huo - spirited, flexible MfP^ fong chao shou - Long Chao Shou snack restaurant in Chengdu ^m \ou piao - perforated ladle f^TK lu shui - aromatic broth (see page 79) ma - the numbing taste of Sichuan pepper ''

z^' gO'

1

H:^^ ma 'er duo -"horse ear" slices 0:fB ma hua - deep-fried dough twists ^^ ma qian - to coat raw ingredients in M'>^ ma wei - to marinate

H^

man

SM.

nian tou -"barbarian head" (archaic

tou

a

runny starch paste before cooking

- steamed bun

name

for

steamed bun

filled

with

meat)

^Mi'XM mao du huo guo - beef tripe hotpot ^ll$^ mao feng cha - Mao Feng tea M^ mei mao - eyebrows ^^ mei zi - plum

M^ ^^

ding gan lu - Meng Ding sweet dew tea mian tiao noodles mo gu - button mushrooms mo yu - konnyaku yam jelly (made from Amorphophallus

tI^:^;

mu'er

WM^W, Mi'^

meng

-"wood

rivieri)

ear" or "cloud ear" fungus (genus Auricula)

I^XR nan gua -"southern gourd" (a type of pumpkin) l^nl^^ff nei bu fa x/ng -"for internal circulation only"

^

nen - tenderness, delicacy (of meat,

-

MMk

ni qiu

tg;||

nian yu

^H 4^Sf

niu bian

M

^^^

niu

fish, etc.;

see page 3

1

loach or weatherfish (Misgurnus anguillicaudatus)

-Amur - ox

catfish (Silurus asotus)

penis

gan jun - ox-liver

niu she pian

mushroom

-"ox-tongue"

{Boletus spp.)

slices

369

land of plenty

^

nong - strong, dense, concentrated

'X^

pa - the texture of food that has been cooked

(e.g.,

of flavor) until

it is

very soft

(Sichuan dialect, see page 31)

tS^ po /o -"fear chile-hotness" M poo - to pickle, pickled MM0-^ poo coi ton zi - Sichuanese

^^1^

pickle jar

pao ge rou -"Secret Society Meat"

(a

nickname for twice-cooked

pork)

MMW.

poo hai jiao - pickled chiles

^

pian

>^

pian

- a slice - to cut

horizontally

P,#

pioo x/ong -"Drifting Fragrance" (the

H^

piao zi

^ife—

^l£

^®

-

qian fen

'^

qiang

i:J]

qie

-

yi

of a restaurant

^W W^

Chengdu)

lei

- "seven-star"

- white

chile (a variety of chile)

starch (pea, corn, or potato flour)

a type of stir-frying (see page 44)

- to cut

vertically

- "tomato sauce flavor" WMS^ q/ng ctieng xue yo - Qing Cheng Mountain snow shoot Wl^lsi qing gong stiu - oriental white oak {Cydobolanopsis spp.) Mt\'^

in

- "a sudden clap of thunder" oyster mushrooms {Pleurotus ostreatus)

sheng

v^hite

xingjiao

qi

name

ladle

ping di

ping gu

-tM^ ^10

-

qie 2hi wei

tea

-"green garlic" (another name for suan miao) qing sun another name for wo sun (q.v.) ftM qu jiu - generic term for strong vodka-like wines ^ffl;/vffiffi quan xing da qu jiu - a Sichuanese sorghum liquor ^3.M fou dou l<.ou - nutmeg H^® son sheng mian - a type of hot-water dough qing suan

H^Atn

son zhengjiu kou

-"Three steamed

dishes and nine steamed bowls"

name for rural banquet) - foul odour astringent taste se wei fe^R^ff^ se xiang wei xing - "color, fragrance, flavor, and form" ^'P^ sha guo - earthenware pot (folk

^^ W^

soo wei

yJ^^

sha Jiang -"sand ginger" (see shan nai)

lUWbMM lU^ shan 370

shan cheng xiao tang yuan - Mountain City nai

-

a type of ginger (also

known

little

glutinous rice balls

as sha jiang) {Kaempferia galanga)

GLOSSARY

M'^ shan li;^

shan yu

iU^M^ f^M^ '^

- muttony odor - yellow or swamp

we;

{Monopterus albus)

shan zhen hai wei -"treasures from the mountains and the seas"

shang

z;

shao - to

^^ ^^

eel

- enjoyment of

wei

taste

braise

- Chinese milk vetch - bamboo basket j^fflg shao xing jiu - Shaoxing rice wine ^ sheng - raw ^^ sheng Jiang - g\nger shao cai shao

ji

shi

'^Jf^M.

pa yu -

2i

:ftS4^S D^^HJII

type of catfish (Euchiloglanis kishinouyei)

shi zai

food, but Sichuan

zhong guo, wei zai is

si

chuan -"China

is

the place for

the place for flavor"

shi zhu rou -"Eating Pork" (a poem by Su Dongpo) - cooked (as opposed to raw) shu - the name of the ancient kingdom centred on today's Chengdu poetic name for the Chengdu area)

:^^|^

B ^

shu

WiK^kB

^^=^ ,^

shu quan

shu

fei ri

-

si

|bI$4

si liao

su

^SH

gua -

-

"silk

-"Sichuan dogs bark

roll-cut

s/- "silken thread"

Mm i^

zi bei

at the

(and a

sun"

chunks

(sliver)

gourd"

{Luffa cylindrica

or Luffa acutangula)

- manufactured animal feed

a type of crispness (see page 3

su dou

ji

- sausage-shaped

roll

1)

of bean curd (literally "vegetarian bean

chicken")

^

- sour M^ suan cai - pickled mustard greens ^^ suan hao - garlic stems ^U suan miao - Chinese leeks, scallions, green garlic WM suan tai - garlic stems WM tang mian - a type of dumpling dough made with hot water ^i,^ te dian - distinguishing characteristics ^11 ti jin - a type of tendon from a pig's foot ^ tian - sweet ^J^-^H tian fu zhi guo - the land of plenty SH^MW tian mian jiang - sweet fermented wheat paste BaS tian xi - rural banquet (literally "field feast") suan

371

land of plenty

f^

-

tiao

a strip

MM

tong cai

[ojip

long

-

tu

±,

- Mandarin Chinese for water spinach xue - "same-school," classmate

I

rustic, earthy, free-range (literally "earth")

HH wan yuan - reunion M wan - to gouge - monosodium glutamate, MSG (literally "the essence of flavor") the game Go q; g^ WM v/eng ca\ - Mandarin Chinese for water spinach ]^^ wo sun - a type of lettuce with a thick stem {Lactuca sativa van ii^ff

wei jing

we/

angustata)

MMM.

wo

vvo

,^#11 wu gu

MJ^^J^^M

tou ji

vvu

-

a type of

steamed bread

- black-boned chicken han bu cheng

-"you can"t make a dish without meat (literally "five-flower meat")

cai

STbl^

vvu

hua rou - pork

SH?^

vvu

Hang ye - SIchuanese "five-grain wine"

^W^M9

vvu tan

SWI& wu

^^

xi fan

-f|g^

^

xian

guo

xiang fen

-

-"do not discuss powder

national affairs"

I

five-spice

plain rice

xia fan cai

-

shi

-

belly

saltiness"

porridge

-"send-the-rice-down" dishes

(see explanation

on page 28)

- Mandarin Chinese for amaranth leaves H^ HH xian mei - delicious xian flavor # xiang - fragrant #^ xiang cai - common Sichuanese name for coriander xian cai

(cilantro) (literally

"fragrant vegetable")

^^ ^^

xiang chang

^Pc

xiang

-

air-dried sausage

xiang gu -"fragrant

^3^f^

liao

xiang you

/H^'

xiao cliao

/jNiig

xiao

ctii

- "elephant tusk"

- sesame oil - to "small-fry"

(a

- small scallions fennel seeds /Jn0 xiao hui xiao long small steamer /J\|i ^b^Wi xiao mi jiao - a type of chile /\\M

372

—

name

Lentinus edodes)

for spices)

strips

type of stir-frying)

-"little eats" (snacks)

xiao cong

(shiitake

-"fragrant things" (generic

xiang ya tiao

^ffi

mushrooms"

GLOSSARY

^

xin

M'^

-

pungent

hot,

xing we/

MMM

-

fishy

xing yuan

lu

odour

- the

earliest Sichuanese

cookbook, the work of

Li

Huanan

mao zhan zhu -"panda fighting bamboo" *^ISSict1' Ms. xue dou -"snow beans" (butter beans) ^H ya cai - a type of preserved mustard green ya yu type of carp {Schizothorax prenanti) igf |& yon du "Salt Capital" (Zigong City) MtP xiong

2L

^M ^^

yon

-"rock carp" {Procyphs rabaudi) - Mandarin Chinese name for coriander

li

yan sui

#^'Jv^'±s yong yu chao ye shan jiao

^[liiK

— ^— 1&

,

'^M'S^

-

tu

dou -"spud-fried potatoes"

wild mountain chile

yi coi yi

ge, bai cai bai wei

- "one

dish,

one

style;

one

hundred dishes, one hundred different flavors" Si5^

yi

11:5

yin'er

wei

- peculiar smell - silver ear fungus

(also

known

as

white

wood

ear; Tremelia

fuciformis)

- "silver needle" sliver - "fish-eye" scallion slices

iSfi'M

yin ^f^^n

MWM

yu yan cong

JM^ yuan {iij:^!^ •)fp

si

- stock made with only one main ingredient gen - Houttuynia cordata (a salad vegetable)

tang

ze'er

zha - to deep-fry

^H

- preserved mustard tuber 'jfpij^ zha shou - to "deep-fry and draw in" zhan - to chop Iff ^ zhang - camphor zha

cai

(see page 363)

zhang zhou (place name) zheng - to steam

if'jtl

M

^H ^M

zheng long - steamer zhi guo

- to season the wok

•fSM^ftlS'S,^ zhi hu

zi long

yan bao

zi

- "Hairy Mole" dragon's-eye steamed

buns (name of a Chengdu restaurant)

fg^K"

zhi jia pian

-"thumbnail"

slices

^^ zhi ma - sesame seeds ^^§ zhi ma jiang - sesame paste 43gl

zhong guo - China

^M'^M

zhong guo

(literally

shi jing

- The

"Middle Kingdom") Chinese Classic of Food

373

land of plenty

t-J^ft

zhu hai - the Bamboo Sea zhu hua - bamboo flower lichen

tt^ij

zhu shua - bamboo

tt?g

wok

brush

t^^ zhu sun - bamboo pith fungus {Dictyophora spp.) YiMW ^hu sun dan - volvae of the bamboo pith fungus Y^Mm' z^w

374

ye


~ green bamboo

leaf tea

—

sources and resources

Shopping for Chinese ingredients and equipment needn't be as intimidating

or as challenging

—

as

it

once was. Many supermarkets now carry a wide

tion of fresh and packaged Asian foods.

Chinatown: most

However, your best bet

is

selec-

often to

visit

have at least a small Asian neighborhood

your

local

filled

with the most authentic (and least expensive) ingredients and equipment

cities

such as woks, steamers, and tableware. You may want to bring this book on

your shopping

trip

and show vendors the Chinese characters for the items

you're seeking. Language barriers can be difficult to

keepers

will

surmount but most shop-

be delighted to help you once they understand what you'd

The following

more

ingredients require a bit

description, and

may

like.

necessi-

tate a trip to a Chinese grocery store:

Bean curd: The soaked

in

best bean curd to use

water that

many grocery

is

available in

in

these recipes

is

the fresh curd

most Chinese food shops,

stores. Soft silken tofu,

which

is

available in health

as well as in

food stores,

can be substituted for "flower" bean curd.

Bamboo

pith fungus: Look for the feather-light, pale, lacy dried fungus

in

Chinese supermarkets (sometimes sold as "bamboo fungus").

Black fernnented beans:

use the Pearl River Bridge brand, "Yang Jiang Pre-

I

served Beans with Ginger," which

is

sold

in

Chinese stores

in

cylindrical card-

board cartons.

Dried spices and dried supermarkets)

will

carry

fruit:

all

Most Chinese shops

the spices used

in this

(as well as

many better

book, including cassia bark,

star anise, fennel seeds, cau guo, "sand ginger," etc. Dried fruit such as jujubes

(Chinese dates) and Chinese wolfberries, as well as some of the other ingredients used

in

some

"eight-treasure" dishes, can be found

supermarkets or spice shops

in

your

local

in

larger Chinese

Chinatown. 375

land of plenty

Dried lotus leaves:

most Chinese

Available at

groceries, including those

the Sources section (see page 377).

listed in

Frozen plantain leaves: most Chinatowns. Pickled

chili

Available at larger Chinese grocery stores and

paste: The Sichuanese simply pound their pickled chiles to a

paste, without adding garlic or any other flavorings. list

chiles, water,

good

find this, a

Sichuan soybeans.

chili I

In

and

substitute

Kum

for brands that If

you can't

the Indonesian product sambal olek.

is

bean paste: Look

use Lee

Look out

main ingredients (not vinegar).

salt as their

Kee's

for pastes

chili

made with

fava beans rather than

bean sauce (Toban Dijan).

Sichuanese dried chiles: Look for Sichuanese "facing heaven" chiles {chao tian jiao). Other types of dried chiles can be used instead, although they won't have a comparable favor. The larger dried chiles sometimes sold in Chinese supermarkets are a reasonable substitute, but beware of using the much hotter tiny dried chiles from India or Thailand.

You can use the oil,

but

if

you can

chili flakes

find real

sold

in

Chinese shops to make Sichuanese

Sichuanese ground chiles they

will yield a

chili

better

fragrance and color.

Sichuan pickled of pickled in

some

chili

chiles: Very difficult to find.

puree and red

bell

pepper

I've

suggested using a mixture

as a substitute for Sichuanese chiles

recipes.

Sichuan pepper: Can be hard to

find in

Chinese grocery stores, but

be ordered from both Adrlana's Caravan and the

CMC

Company

It

can

(see below).

Soybeans, frozen in the pod: Also known as edamame, these can be found at most large grocery and health food stores.

Soy sauce: use Pearl River Bridge brand dark and light soy make two different kinds (in both light and dark), one of which is I

brewed without the addition of

376

MSG

or food coloring.

sauces: they traditionally

SOURCES AND RESOURCES

Sweet bean paste: Used paste; use Mong Lee Shang I

Vinegar: mellow

I

as a substitute for Sichuanese

sweet fermented

brand fronn Taiwan.

use Gold Plum brand of Chinkiang vinegar, which has a complex,

taste,

very reminiscent of Sichuanese Baoning vinegar.

LOCAL SOURCES The 99 Ranch Market

chain

is

a rapidly

expanding group of Asian supermar-

Many stores in more and more throughout the coun-

kets featuring produce, meat, seafood, and packaged foods.

California and across the West, with

try

—check the yellow pages or

their

Web

site,

vy^ww.99ranch.com, to find a

local branch.

NEW YORK Chinese American Trading Company 91

Mulberry Street

New York, NY

10013

212-267-5224 Fax:212-619-7449

No

fresh ingredients, but a wide variety of spices

and dried

food, as well as cooking

equipment. English spoken.

Kam Man Food

Products

200 Canal Street

New York, NY

10013

212-571-0330 Fax:212-766-9085 Asian produce and a large selection of the packaged foods described above. English spoken.

Mon Fung Company 208 Grand Street

New York, NY

10013

212-925-5111

377

land of plenty

For general information and directions to

New York's

Chinatown:

www.chinatown-online.com/nychinatown.htm

BOSTON Ming's Supermarket Inc. I

1

02 Washington Street

Boston,

MA

021 18

617-338-1588 the heart of Boston's Chinatown; features both fresh

In

and packaged

foods. English

spoken.

WASHINGTON, D.C. MeeWah Lung Co. 608

H

Street,

Washington,

N.W.

DC

20001

202-737-0968 Fresh produce

and most of the packaged goods described above.

English spoken,

ATLANTA Ranch Market 5 50 Buford Highway, N.E. 1

Doraville,

GA

30340

770-458-8955 Part of the Asian Square Marketplace development, v/hich features a variety of

Asian shops and restaurants and

is

a good source for dishes and serving pieces.

CHICAGO Dong Kee Co. 2252 S.Wentworth Avenue Chicago,

IL

60616

312-225-6340 Full

range of fresh Asian produce and packaged goods described above.

For general information on Chicago's Chinatown, including directions

and an extensive directory of markets and grocery stores:

www.chicago-chinatown.com

378

2

SOURCES AND RESOURCES

CLEVELAND Asia Grocery and Gift

4825

Pearl

Cleveland.

Road 44109

OH

216-459-8839 Asian produce, meat, seafood and packaged goods. English spoken.

HOUSTON Hong Kong Supermarket 5708 South Gessner Drive

Houston.TX 77036 713-995-1393

A good

selection

of produce, meat, seafood, and packaged goods. Limited English

spoken.

LOS ANGELES Far-East Supermarket

New

758

High Street

Los Angeles,

CA

900

1

213-628-8708 In

the heart of Los Angeles's Chinatown. Limited English spoken, but wide range of

fresh produce

AB

Market

711

New

and packaged goods.

High Street

Los Angeles,

CA

900

1

213-617-1229 just

down

the street from the Far-East Supermarket, another spot to try

if

they

don't have the ingredients you need.

For fresh produce, try the Asian Farmer's Market held every Thursday after-

noon from

3

to 7

p.m. in

the public parking lot

in

Chinatown

at

727 N.

Hill

between Alpine and Ord. For information, directions, and a comprehensive les's

list

of markets

in

Los Ange-

Chinatown, check www.chinatownla.com

379

land of plenty

SAN FRANCISCO May Wah Supermarket 547 Clement Street San Francisco,

CA

941 18

415-668-2583 Extensive selection of fresli Asian produce

and

pacl<.aged ingredients, in addition to

seafood and meat. Large supply of equipnnent at low prices, and a than the stores

Chong Kee

bit less hectic

Chinatown.

in

Jan Co.

838 Grant Street San Francisco,

CA

94 08 1

415-982-1432 In

the heart of San Franisco's Chinatown. If they don't have what you're looking

they'll direct

via

you

—

in

English

—

to

for,

a neighboring store that does. National delivery

UPS.

SEATTLE Uwajimaya

600 5th Avenue Seattle,

S.,

Suite 100

WA 98104

800-889-1928 206-624-6248 Fax:206-624-6915 email:

[email protected]

www.uwajimaya.com Although primarily known as a Japanese store,

this large store also

stocks

some

Chi-

nese ingredients and a variety of Asian produce and cooking equipment. National delivery via UPS.

Chinatown Grocery 676 S.Jackson Street Seattle,

WA 98104

206-621-8499 For directions, information, and an extensive business directory, check www.internationaldistrict.org

380

SOURCES AND RESOURCES

ONLINE AND MAIL ORDER SOURCES There are several good online and mail-order sources,

especially for spices

and cooking equipment:

The Oriental Pantry 423 Great Road (Route 2A) Acton,

MA 01 720

978-264-4576 www.orientalpantry.com Equipment and

ingredients; a

good

selection of spices

and soy sauces

(including

my

preferred brand, Pearl River Bridge). National delivery.

Pacific

email:

Rim Gourmet [email protected]

www.pacificrim-gourmet.com

An

excellent

equipment source, including a wide

ingredients, though not

variety

an exceptionally large Chinese

of woks and steamers. Some

selection. National delivery.

The CMC Company PC. Drawer 322 Avalon, NJ 08202 800-262-2780 Fax:609-861-3065 Email: [email protected] www.thecmccompany.com

With "hard

to find ingredients for the serious cook," this site offers

many of the

ingredients described above (as well as an impressive assortment of ingredients for

other ethnic cuisines). National delivery.

Adriana's Caravan

409Vanderbilt Street Brooklyn,

NY

I

1218

800-316-0820 718-436-8565 www.adrianascaravan.com

Wide

variety of spices

and

herbs, including the elusive Sichuan peppercorn.

National delivery. 381

bibliography

Very I

little

has been written about Sichuanese food

have drawn mainly on Chinese written sources

in

the English language, so

in

my

research for this book.

The

following have been particularly useful:

Liu

Xuezhi, Chengdu's Distinctive Local Snacl<s {cheng du feng wei xiao

chi),

Sichuan Dictionary Publishing House, Chengdu, 1993.

Luo Changsong,

Siciiuanese

Home

Cool<.ery {jia ting

chuan

cai),

Sichuan Science

and Technology Publishing House, Chengdu, 1985.

Ren Baizun

The Ctiinese Classic of Food {zhong guo

(ed.),

tural Publishing

Xiong

Sizhi,

shi jing),

Shanghai Cul-

House, Shanghai, 1999.

Famous Sichuanese Snacks

{si

chuan ming xiao

Sichuan Science

chi),

and Technology Publishing House, Chengdu, 1986.

Xiong

Sizhi (ed.),

The Mysteries of Sichuanese Food {chuan

ao mi), Sichuan

cai

People's Publishing House, Chengdu, 1993.

Zhang Furu,

Appreciation of Sichuanese Food {chuan cai shang

x/),

Sichuan Sci-

ence and Technology Publishing House, Chengdu, 1987.

Zhang Furu

(ed.).

d/on),

Zhang Mu

Encyclopaedia of Sichuanese Cuisine {chuan cai peng ren shi

Chongqing Publishing House, Chongqing, 1999.

(ed.),

Sichuanese Cuisine {chuan

cai),

Shandong Science and Technol-

ogy Publishing House, 1996. Cookery Textbook

{jiao

xue

cai),

Sichuan Provincial Labor Department Office for

Technical Education and Research, Sichuan Science and Technology

University Publishing House, Chengdu, 1991.

A Guide

to Sichuan's Distinctive Local Products

{si

chuan

te

chan feng wei zhi nan),

Sichuan People's Publishing House, Chengdu, 1984. Sichuanese Cookery Book

{si

chuan

cai pu),

Chengdu Food and Drink Company,

Center for Training and Research

in

Sichuanese Cookery, Chengdu,

1988.

Sichuanese Cooking Techniques {chuan cai peng tiao

ji

shu), Sichuan Institute of

Higher Cuisine, Sichuan Education Publishing House, Chengdu, 1993.

382

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Sichuanese Snack-Making Techniques {ciiuan dian zhi zuo of Higher Cuisine, Sichuan

Education

ji stiu),

Sichuan Institute

House, Chengdu,

Publishing

1992.

The account 14-15,

of the history of chiles

China

in

in

the introduction, pages

derived with kind permission from a conference paper by Professor

is

Museum: "A study on chiles" {la jiao much indebted to Gwenaele Chesnais's Les Maisons de The de

Jiang Yuxiang of the Sichuan University kao).

I

am

also

Chengdu (unpublished MS, tales, Paris),

Studies

in

des Langues et Civilisations Orien-

Institut National

and to Francesca Tarocco of the School of Oriental and African

London

for sharing with

me

her research on Buddhist vegetarian

food.

The following

English-language books have been invaluable

Chinese ingredients and

my

my work

in

efforts to create recipes that

research into in

a

Western

kitchen:

Chang, K. C.

(ed.).

Food

in

Chinese Cu/ture, Yale University Press,

New

Haven,

1977.

Cost, Bruce, Foods from the Far East, Century, London,

Davidson, Alan, Oxford Companion

to Food,

1

990.

Oxford University

Press, Oxford,

1999. So,Yan-kit, Classic Chinese Cookbook, Dorling Kindersiey, So,Yan-kit, Classic Food of China, Macmillan,

London, 1984.

London, 1992.

383

acknowledgments

The most important

ingredient

friends and teachers

in

much

owe

I

in this

China and

in

book

England.

my how

has been the generosity of I

cannot begin to explain

to Professor Feng Quanxin and his wife Qiu Rongzhen of the

Sichuan Institute of Higher Cuisine,

who

have been tireless

in

their support

for this project. Professor Xiong Sizhi, China's leading authority on Sichuanese

food culture, has been extremely generous with

his

time and

head chef of the Long Chao Shou restaurant

Shixian, the

his library.

in

Fan

Chengdu, has

been an unforgettable teacher. Special-grade chef Zhang Shechang has been endlessly patient I

would

in

my questions. thank my other teachers

answering

also like to

at the Sichuan Institute of

Higher Cuisine, Can Guojian, Lu Maoguo, Long Qingrong, and

Li

their inspiring lessons and their kindness to the only foreigner

students. portive.

Du

Huang Weibing, Lu Yi, and At Sichuan University Museum, Li,

Li I

of Sichuan Cookery

{si

am much

also helped

me on my

Qin Heping,

chuan peng ren) magazine has given

me

cutting board.

all

Chengdu,

I

me many

critic

Zhang

over Sichuan have been incredibly kind,

into their kitchens and letting In

Wang

way.

Chefs and restaurant owners

welcoming

their

indebted to Professor

extremely useful books. The veteran journalist Che Fu and food

Changyu

among

Yunyun have also been most sup-

Jiang Yuxiang, and at the Sichuan Minorities Institute, to

Xudong

Daiquan, for

would

me

try

my hand

particularly like to thank

at the

wok

Manager

Li

or Lin

De and the staff of the Bamboo Bar, Xiao Jianming and Xiao Ming of Piaoxiang, everyone at Long Chao Shou (especially waiter Xu Gang), and everyone at the Mousehole. In Chongqing, am much obliged to Mao Xinning, the manager of Old Sichuan, and to the head chef at Xiao Dongtian. It is impossible to name individually all the other chefs, bean curd and the

staff

of the Shufeng Restaurant, Manager Yu

Chengdu Restaurant, Feng

Rui and his family at the

I

makers, market vendors, snack

sellers,

and restaurateurs

who

have con-

tributed to this book. Liu

384

Yaochun and Xu Jun of Sichuan University have been

fantastic friends

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

and have helped

me

immeasurably

the book v\^ithout them.Yu Weiqin, Ping, Li

ideas,

every respect

in

—

I

couldn't have written

Zhou Xiaowei, Kou

Shurong, Peng Rui, Liu Chun, and Zeng Bo have

me

and contacts. Shang Meng kindly helped

Caijun,

all

some

with

Zhou Yu.Tao

contributed recipes,

my

of

translations.

Francesca Tarocco has, as always, been a splendid and inspirational friend, a formidable critic,

and an exacting

taster.

Merchant has been passionate about

hope that

I

remind her of our many shared adventures

tained

me

Lipika

Pelham for

all

in

mentor

been particularly I

would

home

me

My mother, Non Shaw

invaluable advice.

many ways, and her guidance

seasoned writer has

as a

useful.

also like to thank heartily

England

in

sus-

equal measure. Special thanks also to

her moral support and enthusiastic tasting.

in

and has

Mara Baughman has

critic.

Carolyn Dunlop, has tested recipes and given has been a

always

will

Europe. Seema

in

this project since the beginning

been a wonderful friend and indispensable with herbs and affection

book

this

Sichuan and

in

who

Linder, Louise Beynon,

the other lao wai

all

me

have spurred

in

Chengdu and

at

on, especially Penny Bell and Simon

Gwenaele Chesnais,

Ian

Cumming, Volker Dencks, Jo

Forkin, Jari Grosse-Ruyken, Rachel Harris, Jakob Klein, Angle Knox, Marianne

Bek

Phiri,

Pietro Piccoli, Davide Quadrio, Maria af Sandeberg, Monica deTogni,

Clemens Treter, ElenaValussi.and Alessandro

Zelger. In London,

I

would

like

to

thank Yan-kit So for her support and encouragement and for giving Chinese

cookbook writers something to aspire to with her excellent books; Norman Fu, for sharing with me some of his culinary expertise; Alan Davidson and Helen Saberi for their advice on naming ingredients;

Gardens for

his

advice on trees; and

Huw

Prendergast at

Kew

Nick Wilson, Lindsey Jordan, Sara

Marafini,Tom Weldon, and the rest of the team at Michael Joseph for taking this project

on with such great enthusiasm. Many, many thanks also to Tara

Qu

Fisher for her photographs, and to

Jeremy Carpenter, Martin Toseland, Sue provided

me

with valuable advice

in

Lei

Bale,

Lei for his beautiful calligraphy.

Ann

Barr,

the early stages.

to Alan Le Breton and Larry Jagan at the

BBC World

to pursue this project while continuing to

work

Finally,

bringing

I

me

would up

in

a

like

to thank

house

full

my

parents,

I

at the

and Angela Atkins

am

also

Service,

all

much indebted

who

helped

me

BBC.

Bede and Carolyn Dunlop, for

of extraordinary food and for giving

me

the run

of the kitchen from a very early age.

385

6

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

index

Amaranth

leaves, stir-fried

garlic.

Amomum

amaranth leaves

v/ith

Bean sprouts:

294-95

tsao-kuo,

steamed buns with spicy bean sprout

Ants climbing a tree, 2 9-20

stir-fried,

1

Appetizers,

36-9

1

298

Beans:

Aromatic broth, 76-78

fava beans

34 —42

fan,

ba bao guo zheng, 340 1

30-3

haricots verts

cauliflower with smoky, 304-5

Sichuan

soybeans

homemade bacon

with Sichuanese flavorings,

gan

bai you

si

Bamboo Bamboo

gua,

224-25

boiled beef slices

310-11

in

50-5

1

86-87

1

9-20

a fiery sauce,

226-28

228-30

dry-fried beef slivers,

hot-and-numbing dried, 163-65

baskets, 50 leaves, glutinous rice

cones wrapped

man-and-wife meat

in,

slices,

78-80

1

Pock-marked Mother Chen's bean curd,

134

Bamboo pith fungus, 59 jade web soup with quail

313-14 red-braised beef with white radish, 232-33

eggs and, 33 1-33

shao ji, 247—48

shredded beef with sweet peppers, 234-35

Bang bang chicken, 44—46

slivers

Banquet cookery, 23-24

spicy beef slices with tangerine peel,

Bean curd, 3 1-13

spicy

1

1

bear's paw, 3

dry bean curd with peanuts,

fish

1

stewed

50

in

spicy sauce,

269-71

oxtail soup,

bing tang tu ding,

67-69

rice meal,

1

65-67

230—32

326-29

1

74—75

Bitter melon:

316-17

dry-fried, 290,

with sesame

five-spiced, 171

flower,

steamed beef with

1

Xie Laoban's dan dan noodles, 89-90

braised with bean curd

fish-fragrant,

with sesame seeds,

stewed beef soup, 328-29

1

fermented, 59-60

126-29

296-97

oil,

156-57

Black fermented beans, 54

homestyle, 315-16

Black rice porridge, eight-treasure, 130-31

Pock-marked Mother Chen's, 313-14

bo

li

with sesame seeds,

bo

si

1

69

soup, 337 spicy noodles with soft,

Chili

92-93

chili

you gao, 132

Boiled beef slices

in

Bowl-steamed pork

bean paste, 57

Sichuan

shao mai, 114-16

Boiled aromatic peanuts, 189

Bean paste:

386

their pods,

ants climbing a tree, 2

pian,

1

ground pork, 306-7

Beef, 193

66-68 bai you

6

1

bean paste, 57

chili

in

60-6

6

1

ginger sauce,

pickled string beans with

flowering chives with smoky, 291-92

li

in

1

and garlicky sauce,

fava beans with shrimps,

Bacon:

ban

a simple stock sauce,

in

fava beans in hot

1

ba bao hei mi zhou,

289-9

dry-fried green beans,

1

ba bao

stuffing,

124-26

62

bean paste, 53

a fiery sauce, belly

226-28

with pickled vegetables,

206-8 Braised chicken with chestnuts, 247-48

I

1

1

7

11

1

1

INDEX

Braised

silk

chicken with, 240-4

gourd, 310-11

Bread:

fish

lotus-leaf buns,

24

1

cucumber

spicy

steamed buns with spicy bean sprout

potato

stir-fried

stuffing,

steamed flower

rolls,

1

22-24

slivers

stir-fried,

sesame

oil,

1

57

Chili

299

76-78

1

braised

Chili oil,

Caramelized glutinous

in chili

bean sauce, 259-62

354

red-oil sauce, 140—41

Chinese cabbage:

rice balls, 133

steamed pork and cabbage dumplings, 111-12

Cassia bark, 6 Cauliflower:

stir-fried,

with sesame

oil,

298

Chinese characters, glossary

157

smoky bacon, 304—5

Chinese

42

scallions,

of,

364-74

57-58

Chives:

chao han

294-95

cai,

chao nan gua

pork

303-4

si,

with yellow, 216-17

slivers

Chongqing, 2

chao xiang, 42 pi niu rou,

chen

pi

Chopsticks, 49

chen

1

65—67

Cinnamon, 6

wei xing, 355

Cleaver, 36,

45-46

Chengdu, 2

Climate,

Chestnuts, braised chicken with, 247—48

Cloud ear fungus, pork

Chicken, 236-37

Coating

soup, 335-37

balls in clear

247-48

sauce, 140—41

lotus,

leaves,

187-88

58

cu

liu ji,

24 -43 1

Cucumber, spicy cucumber slices, 1

141—42

art of, oil

sauce,

143-44

32-35

da suan shao

144-46

Daikon

245^7

17,54-57

yu,

274—75

slivers in a spicy dressing,

1

58-59

dan dan mian, 87-88

with vinegar, 24 1-43

248-50

38-39

Cutting board, 46

95-97

321-22

livers, stir-fried

185-86

techniques, 36-39 useful shapes,

soup with pickled mustard greens, 325-26 spicy cold noodles with chicken slivers,

salad,

Cutting:

38-39

Sichuan pepper and sesame

Chiles, 14-15,

83—84

299-300

Pao) chicken with peanuts,

for Sichuanese appetizers,

Tai Bai,

1

Corn, sweet corn kernels with green peppers,

hot-and-numbing chicken

strange-flavor,

rice wine,

58

snow

Coriander

142—43

237-39

slices in

oils,

Coral-like

243—44

fish-fragrant chicken slivers,

Gong Bao (Kung

with black, 218-19

Cooking wines, 57

cold chicken with fragrant rice wine, 183—84 dry-fried,

slices

starch or batter, 4

in

Cooking

240-4

in red-oil

1

Cooking methods, 43-44, 358-63

braised chicken with chestnuts,

chunks

6,

1

Cold chicken with fragrant

"bean curd" soup, 333-34

chiles,

smoky bacon, 291-92

flowering chives with

248-50

za,

Chicken

and Sichuan

55-56

red-oil flavor,

Cabbage, see Chinese cabbage

stew,

chile

bean paste, 57

fish

Broth, aromatic,

with

with chiles and Sichuan

pepper, 295-96

florets with

chao ji

85-86

water spinach with

stir-fried

Broccoli:

chao,

1

348—49

pepper, 297-99

124-26

with

salad,

spicy hotpot broth,

Sichuanese flatbreads, 133

1

with chiles and Sichuan pepper, 278-79

chicken hotchpotch,

Dan dan noodles: traditional, 87-88 Xie Laoban's, 89-90 dan hong gao,

1

32

387

1

1

1

1

1

2

11

7

1

1

1

1

land of plenty

Deep-fried crispy peanuts, Deep-fried pork with

salt

9

1

1

Deep-frying, 4

deng ying shao dou ban xian dou

fu

dou

fu tang,

shao

dou hua,

151-52

pian,

53-54

32

1

Eight-treasure black rice porridge,

269-7

yu,

1

69-70

stuffed eggy pancakes,

259-62

Eight-treasure rice pudding,

337 26-29

1

preserved eggs with green peppers, salty duck,

yu,

tomatoes, 305-6

fried eggs with

and Sichuan pepper, 2

Eight-treasure

wok

1

30-3

341—42

pudding, 340

Equipment, 45-52

dou hua m/on, 92-93 dou ya bao

z\,

1

24—26

Dressings, spicy,

1

fan qie chao dan,

58-59

Drifting Fragrance Restaurant,

Drinks,

26

fen

fish

with pork

in

spicy sauce,

271-73

zheng

niu rou,

230-32

feng wei yao hua, 223

Fennel seeds, 62

Dry-braising, 43

228-30

Dry-fried beef slivers,

Dry-fried bitter melon, 290, Dry-fried chicken,

Fermented bean curd, 59—60

296-97

Fermented black beans, see Black fermented beans

243—44

Fermented glutinous

Dry-fried eggplants, 300-30

rice wine,

60-61

cold chicken with fragrant rice wine, 183-84

Dry-fried green beans, 289-9

Fermented

pork

paste, stir-fried

slivers with,

215-16

Dry-frying, 43

Fire-exploded kidney flowers, 221-23

Duck, 237, 250 fragrant and crispy,

254-55

Fish,

258-59

Sichuanese roast, 25 -54

braised

tea-smoked, 180-83

braised with bean curd

wild duck braised with konnyaku "bean curd,"

with chiles and Sichuan pepper, 278-79

1

256-57

in chili

dry-braised

bean sauce, 259-62

fish

in

spicy sauce,

with pork

in

"glassy" steamed,

114-16

leaf-wrapped glutinous

spicy sauce,

rice,

07-9

1

69-7

five-spiced "smoked,"

1

hot-and-numbing

280-81

tiny,

"Long" wonton, 04-7

Sichuan-style steamed,

Mr

soup with pickled greens, 262-64

1

Lai's

glutinous rice balls with sesame stuffing,

97-100 pearly rice

balls,

spicy braised fish with 1

20-2

stew

pot-sticker dumplings with chicken stock,

112-14

in

whole

steamed pork and pumpkin,

I

I

sweet-and-sour

crispy,

I

1

1-12

Fish-fragrant eggplants,

0-1

Fish-fragrant flavor, 353

I

wrappers, 103

Fish-fragrant

pork

Five-spice flavor,

see also Street treats

Five-spice powder, 6

1

274-75

264—67 61

1

Five-spiced

1

42—43

285-87

slivers,

"Zhong" crescent, 00- 03 1

garlic,

an earthen pot, 276-77

Fish-fragrant chicken slivers,

steamed pork and cabbage,

1

96-98

356

"smoked"

fish,

169-71

Flatbreads, Sichuanese, 133

Eggplants:

300-30

fish-fragrant,

Flavors,

285-87

steamed eggplants with

27-30, 353-57

Flower bean curd, chile sauce,

1

55-56

stuffed eggplants fritters with Sichuan pepper,

301-3

1

26-29

Flowering chives with smoky bacon, 291-92 Folk cookery, 22

Food preparation, 4 -42 1

Fragrant and crispy duck, 254-55

Eggs: fried

267-69

Fish-fragrant bean curd, 3

rippled-silk fried, 132

dry-fried,

269-7

271-73

Dumpling(s):

388

306

Fava beans, see Beans

26-27

Dry-braised

305-6

fan qiejian dan tang,

egg and tomato soup, 306

Fragrant fermented sauce flavor, 355

1

1

1

1

1

11

1

1

1

1

1

INDEX

53-54

Fragrant mushrooms, 59

preserved eggs with,

"Fragrant things," 61

sweet corn kernels with, 299-300

Fragrant wine

flavor,

356

fu pi qing jiao, fu qi fei plan,

Grouper, Sichuan-style steamed

guai we/ hua ren,

78-80

guai wei ji

76

si,

guo

43

gan bian ji, 243—44

gan bian

niu rou

gan bian

qie

gan bian

si ji

dou,

gan bian

siji

dou (vegetarian version), 290-9

gua,

si,

228-30

300-30 289-9

rou,

93-95

ban shao

206-8

bai,

yu,

27 -73

han xian wei

he ye

1

bing,

ginger sauce,

in

274-75

amaranth leaves with, 294-95

1

303-4

Homestyle

braising,

Homestyle

flavor,

bing,

hong shao

niu rou,

Ginger, 63

hong shao

rou,

in

ginger sauce,

steamed pork knuckle flavor,

in

50-5

1

ginger sauce,

357

hong

you,

hong you chao shou, hong you ji

Glutinous

hong you

rice:

caramelized glutinous rice

balls,

bamboo

in

1

1

341—42 60-6

rice wine,

Mr

Lai's

97-100 1

20-2

"three cannonshots,"

I

1

354

xing,

07-9

beef,

Hot-and-numbing

flavor,

354

Hot-and-numbing

tiny fish,

hot-and-sour

141—42

slices,

Hot-and-numbing dried

1

63-65

280-8

355

flavor,

1

29

Hotpot, 344-47

17-18

dipping ingredients, 350-5

35

chicken with peanuts, 237-39

gong baoji

ding,

eating tips,

237-39

plain

42-43

352

hotpot broth, 349-50

seasoning dips, 35 1-52

Green beans: dry-fried, 289-9 haricots verts

1

55-56

1

Hot-and-sour soup, 329-3

Gong Bao qian,

zi,

06

hot-and-sour flower bean curd,

balls,

Golden-thread noodles,

gou

1

glutinous rice balls with sesame stuffing,

pearly rice

qie

1

40-4

1

Hot-and-numbing chicken

34

leaf-wrapped glutinous rice dumplings,

kuai,

hong you wei

33

leaves,

eight-treasure rice pudding,

fermented glutinous

52

1

55-56

"Glassy" steamed dumplings, 114-16

cones wrapped

232-33

208-9

hong shao song,

204-6

43

353

118-19

hong shao

haricots verts

50-5

20 -3

rou,

Garlic paste flavor, 354

zucchini slivers with,

1

Homestyle bean curd, 315-16

1

spicy braised fish with whole,

356

xing,

24

1

he ye zheng

63

Ginger juice

96

1

357

tian wei xing,

Haricots verts

hot and garlicky sauce, 46—48

stir-fried

98-20

1

hai wei mian,

han

1

gan shao, 43

Garlic,

pian,

133

kuei,

guo kuei hui guo

leu

gan shao xian

1

296-97

gan bian

zi,

90 44—46

1

guai wei wei xing, 353

guo ba rou bian,

fish,

267-69

42

288-89 1

fu zhi Jiang you,

gan

288-89

tiger-skin,

Ground roasted Sichuan pepper, 74-75

tomato soup, 306 Fried eggs with tomatoes, 305—6 Fried egg and

Frying-fragrant,

1

in

spicy hotpot broth,

hu ginger sauce,

1

50-5

Green onions, 57-58 Green peas with sesame Green peppers:

la

hua jiao mian, 74—75 hua jiao

oil,

potato and green pepper

1

tu ding,

1

73-74

huajuan, 122-24

57

slivers,

348-49

wei xing, 354

299

hua ren ban

tu ding,

hua ren dou

fu gan,

1

1

48-50 50

389

1

2

11

1

1

1

1

1

land of plenty

guo

hui

rou,

94-96

1

Hang

huo bao yao hua, 22 -23

fen,

34-35

1

long chao shou,

Jade

web soup

with quail eggs and

pith

ji si

zhi guo

jia

chang shao, 43

jia

chang wei

355

50-5

1

yan

87-88

1

24

89

175-84

lushui,

176-78

Lychee

flavor,

357

1

1

yan qie bing, 30 -3

yan su

jiao

yan wei

jiao

yan zong

1

28

xia,

355

xing, zi,

jie

mo

jin

gou hu dou,

1

34

357

wei xing,

1

1

Man-and-wife meat

6

1

jing Jiang rou

huang rou

si,

215-16 216-17

Marinating, 4

si,

dou,

1

slices,

1

78-80

86-87

mao Map

mian, 135

jiu zi tang,

1

1

2

jiao

jin si

1

1

75 li ji,

lotus,

ma Jiang wei xing, 357 ma Jiang xian cai, 59-60 ma la ji pian, 4 —42 ma la niu rou gan, 63-65 ma la wei xing, 354 ma la zi yu, 280-8 ma po dou fu, 313-14 ma qian, 4 ma wei, 4 ma yi shang shu, 2 9-20

204—6

zi,

201-3

357

jiao

jiu

1

ma ji pian, 43—44 ma wei xing, 355

jiao yan, jiao

zhou

hua sheng,

lurou,

Jiang zhi wei xing,

jiao

lu

68-69

1

in,

sweet-and-sour sauce, 309-10

Lotus-leaf buns,

Jiang zhi Jiang dou,

jiao

in

353

xing,

Jiang xiang wei xing,

Jiang zhi

snow

coral-like

315-16

fu,

208

Lotus root:

112-14

tie,

chang dou

Jiang rou,

"Long" wonton dumplings, 104-7 Lotus leaves, pork steamed

Hang mian, 95-97

jia

1

long yan han shao bai,

dou hua, 333-34

ji

ji

bamboo

331-33

fungus,

224-25 04-7

Liver, stir-fried pig's,

1

of Sichuan,

82-83

Meal traditions, 24-25

336

Meatball soup, 336

Kidneys, fire-exploded kidney flowers, 22 -23

mei

mao

Konnyaku yam

mo

yu shao

1

jelly,

wild duck braised with kon-

nyaku "bean curd," 256-57

rou chao

la

rou shao hua

laziji,

jiu cai

hua, 29

97-100

Mung bean

278-79

97- 00 1

stir-fried

Lamp-shadow sweet potato lao zao, 60-6 zao

ji

chips,

151-52

Mustard

sprouts, see Bean sprouts

mixed, 292-93

flavor,

357

Mustard greens, pickled, see Pickled mustard

60

dan,

93-95

Mushrooms: dried, 58-59

48

Lamb, 193

lao

sea-flavor noodles,

mu'er rou pian, 218-19

Ladle, perforated,

tang yuan,

glutamate, 63-64

glutinous rice balls with sesame stuffing,

Mr Xie's

304-5

cai,

Lai's

-92

240-41

la zi yu,

lai

1

256-57

ya,

Monosodium

Mr la

yao hua, 223

greens

Leaf-wrapped glutinous rice dumplings, 107-9 Lettuce /;'

in

sesame sauce, 59-60 1

357

zhi wei xing,

niu rou

Han guo tang, 323-24

Hang ban

cai,

1

37-6

Hang ban luo bu

390

si,

nan gua zhengjiao,

1

I

1

0-1

Noodles: ants climbing a tree, 2

58-59

I

dan dan mian, 89-90

golden-thread, 135

1

9-20

11

2

1

3

1

1

INDEX

93-95

Mr. Xie's sea-flavor,

hot-and-sour soup, 329-3

95-97

spicy cold noodles with chicken slivers, spicy noodles with soft bean curd,

leaf-wrapped glutinous rice dumplings,

92-93

in

dan dan, 87-88

traditional

meatball soup, 336

Mr Xie's

Xie Laoban's dan dan, 89-90

91-92

Yibin "kindling,"

07-9

1

lychee sauce with crispy rice, 198-201

sea-flavor noodles,

93-95

pickled string beans with ground,

306—7

pot-sticker dumplings with chicken stock,

see also Street treats

112-14 58

Oils, cooking,

red-braised,

Oxtail soup,

68-69

326-29

2 2-

salt-fried,

Pancakes, stuffed eggy, Passing through the

Peanuts, 64,

1

1

oil,

4

slivers

with preserved mustard tuber, 213-14

slivers

with yellow chives, 216-17

steamed buns with spicy beansprout

chicken with, 237-39

rabbit with peanuts

steamed

hot bean sauce,

in

1

48-50

1

201-3

lotus leaves,

steamed pork and pumpkin dumplings,

20-2

Peas with sesame

in

steamed pork and cabbage dumplings, 111—12

strange-flavor, 190

Pearly rice balls,

oil,

1

steamed pork knuckle 57

stir-fried

pork

in

ginger sauce,

I

1

0-1

204-6

with fermented paste,

slivers

215-16

Pepper, see Sichuan pepper;White pepper

stuffed eggplant fritters with Sichuan pepper,

Peppers:

potato and green pepper

slivers,

301-3

299

preserved eggs with green, 153-54

sweet-and-sour, 210-12

shredded beef with sweet, 234—35

twice-cooked, 194-96

sweet-and-sour red,

1

54-55

and white radish soup, 323-24

sweet corn kernels with green, 299-300 tiger-skin green,

Perforated

ladle,

wontons, 104-7

288-89

"Zhong" crescent dumplings, 100-103

48

Porridge, eight-treasure black rice, 130—31

Pickled chiles, 56

Pot-sticker dumplings with chicken stock,

112-14

Pickled mustard greens, 71

chicken soup with, 325-26 fish

stuffing,

124-26

9

1

1

slices

88

deep-fried crispy,

1

with black cloud ear fungus, 218-19

32

boiled aromatic, 189

Gong Bao

208-9

salt-cured pork with sweet fermented paste,

Organization, 40

Potato

soup with, 262-64

64

Potato(es):

Pickled string beans with ground pork,

306-7

chips, 281

Pickled vegetables, 64-65, 7 1-72

bowl-steamed pork

flour,

belly with,

and green pepper

206-8

stir-fried

Pock-marked Mother Chen's bean curd, 313-14

potato

slivers,

slivers

299

with chiles and Sichuan

pepper, 297-99

Pork, 192

Preserved eggs with green peppers,

ants climbing a tree, 2

bowl-steamed pork bles,

cold pork

1

9-20

belly

homemade bacon

with pickled vegeta-

206-8

in

hot and garlicky sauce, 146-48

with pork

in

spicy sauce,

271-73

"glassy"

pork

1

-72

pork with sweet fermented paste,

68-69

1

salty

duck

eggs,

69-70

Preserved mustard tuber, 70

dry-fried green beans, fish-fragrant

with Sichuanese flavorings,

pickled vegetables, 7 salt-cured

deep-fried pork with salt and Sichuan pepper, 2 fish

53-54

66-68

dan dan noodles, 87-88

dry-braised

1

Preserved foods, 64-65

289-90

slivers,

1

96-98

steamed dumplings, 114-16

pork

slivers with,

213-14

Pumpkin, steamed pork and pumpkin dumplings, 110-11

391

1

1

1

3

1

1

land of plenty

qiang,

44

rabbit with,

qiang huang gua, 185-86 qiang kong xin

qiang tu dou

295-96

cai,

328-29

qing dun niu wei tang,

326-29

qing tang cliao siiou,

Salt-cured pork with sweet fermented paste,

68-69

06

2 2-1

Salt-fried pork,

1

Salt-savory flavor, 356

267-69

qing zheng xian yu,

Quail eggs, jade

1

335-37

qing tangji yuan,

boo

72

299-300

qingjiao yu mi,

306-7

dou,

Salt-and-pepper dip, 75

299

si,

mo Jiang

Salt, 30,

53-54

1

qingjiao tu dou

rou

32 1-22

ji,

qingjiao pi dan,

sugar soup,

50

Rolling pins,

qing dun niu rou tang,

qing dun quan

in crystal

338-39

297-99

si,

74-75

1

ear fungus

silver

Salt-sweet flavor, 357

web soup

with quail eggs and bam-

pith fungus, 33 1-33

Salty

duck

69-70

eggs,

san da pao,

17-18

I

"Sand ginger," 62 Sauce(s):

Rabbit:

with peanuts

in

hot bean sauce,

with rock sugar,

1

1

48-50

74-75

with Sichuan pepper,

1

ginger,

73-74

red-braised beef with white, 232-33

Red peppers: oil,

57

1

48-50

1

hot-and-numbing, 141—42 140-41

red-oil,

sesame,

with sesame

146—48

garlicky,

hot bean,

pork and white radish soup, 323-24

142-43

50-5

1

hot and

Radish(es), 152

59-60

1

Sichuan pepper and sesame

sweet-and-sour, 154—55

thickening

143—44

42—43

of,

Red-braised pork, 208-9

Scallions,

Red-oil flavor, 354

Scorched

Red-oil sauce, 140—41

Seasoning, of wok, 4 —42, 47

Rice:

57-58

Serving dishes, 5 -52

354

chili flavor, 1

1

eight-treasure black rice porridge, 130-31

pork

in

lychee sauce with crispy, 198-201

pork steamed spicy

in

201-3

lotus leaves,

steamed beef with

zheng zheng cakes,

1

3

rice meal,

1-32

oil,

73

melon with, 56-57

bitter

1

chicken slices

glutinous rice balls with sesame stuffing,

97-100 1

357

flavor,

lettuce

beef slivers with, Mr.

in,

59-60

1

67-69

97-100 17-18

sha guo xian

Rice-cooker, 49

yu,

shan hu xue Han,

Rice pudding, eight-treasure, 34

1

—42

shan zhen

hui,

276-77 1

87-88

292-93

Shredded beef with sweet peppers, 234-35

Rice wine: cold chicken with fragrant,

1

83-84

fermented glutinous, 60-6 Rippled-silk fried dumplings,

Shrimps: crispy shrimps with salt and Sichuan

1

32

pepper, 28

Roast duck, Sichuanese, 25 1-54

fresh fava beans with,

Rock

Mr Xie's

sugar,

1

glutinous rice balls with sesame stuffing,

Lai's

20-2 I

72

oil

Sesame seeds, 73

caramelized glutinous, 133

pearly rice,

Sichuan pepper and sesame

paste, 73

Sesame paste

Sesame sauce,

"three cannonshots,"

in

sauce, 143—44

Sesame

balls:

Mr Lai's

Sesame

230-32

see also glutinous rice

Rice

oil,

144—46

strange-flavor,

Red-braised beef with white radish, 232-33

392

fish-fragrant,

1

6

sea-flavor noodles,

93-95

8

1

1

8

2

1

INDEX

zhu

shui

226-28

niu rou,

stewed

si

chuan huo guo, 347-52

si

cliuan Icao ya, 25

si

chuan

la rou,

si

cliuan

pao

si

zhong

siiu cai,

-54

1

hot-and-sour,

in

1

07

Soy sauce, 75

66—68 7 -72

cai,

326-329

oxtail,

wontons

sweet, aromatic, 76

Soybeans:

1

308-9

in

a simple stock sauce, 161

Sichuan Institute of Higher Cuisine, 11-12

in

their pods,

Sichuan pepper, 15-16,73-74

see also Bean curd

chicken slices

Sichuan pepper and sesame

in

oil

sauce, 143-44

28

deep-fried pork with salt and, 2

Spicy

with chiles and, 297-99

potato

stir-fried

water spinach with

slivers

chile and,

stuffed eggplant fritters with, salt flavor,

295-96

to,

land of plenty,

1

produce,

local

1

348-49

Sichuan pepper, 295-96

355

Starch

jellies,

1

34-35

Steamed buns with 124-26

spicy bean sprout stuffing,

9-20

Steamed eggplants with

9-20

Steamed flower

Sichuan-style steamed

fish,

267-69

Sichuanese cuisine, development

rolls,

1

17-19

Steamed pork knuckle Steamer, 49

salt,

72

in

fish

29

356

stew

bean curd, 337 balls in clear,

335-37

Stir-fried

amaranth leaves with

Stir-fried

chicken hotchpotch, 248-50

Stir-fried

mixed vegetables, 308-9

Stir-fried

with quail eggs and

bamboo

silver

beef,

in

323-324

crystal sugar,

328-329

with chiles and Sichuan

water spinach with

Stir-frying,

chile

and Sichuan

42

1

everyday,

ear fungus

stewed

pith

Stocks, 3

336 radish,

slivers

pepper, 295-96

fungus, 33 1-333

pork and white

with fermented paste,

pepper, 297-99

egg and tomato, 306

meatball,

224-25

slivers

potato

Stir-fried

soup with pickled greens, 262-64

web soup

pork

294-95

215-16

hot-and-sour soup, 329-33 jade

204-6

84

1

mixed mushrooms, 292-93

Stir-fried

chicken stew, 32 1-22

garlic,

Stir-fried

chicken soup with pickled mustard greens, 325-26

fried

ginger sauce,

in

an earthen pot, 276-77

Stir-fried pig's liver,

chicken "bean curd," 333-34

fish

in

Stir-fried dishes,

Soup(s), 151-52,320-21

chicken

1-12

1

43

flavor,

I

Stewed aromatic meats, 75-84

338-39

Smells, dispelling of unpleasant,

Smoked

I

chicken, 32 1-22

59

crystal sugar soup,

Small-frying,

55-56

Stew:

gourd, braised, 310-11

Silver ear fungus,

1

Steamed pork and pumpkin dumplings, 110-11

Sichuanese roast duck, 25 1-54

Silk

chile sauce,

22-24

Steamed pork and cabbage dumplings,

of,

Sichuanese flatbreads, 133

Sichuanese well

230-32

Spinach, stir-fried water spinach with chile and

Star anise, 62

1

1

95-97

58-59

Spicy steamed beef with rice meal,

301-3

355

Sichuan region:

immigration

65-67

Spicy noodles with soft bean curd, 92-93

stir-fried

flavor,

1

274-75

185-86

salad,

Spicy hotpot broth,

salt-and-pepper dip, 75

Sichuan pepper

cucumber

Spicy dressing,

73-74

Sichuan pepper and

garlic,

Spicy cold noodles with chicken slivers,

1

ground roasted, 74—75 1

whole

Spicy braised fish with

with chiles and, 278-79

rabbit with,

sweet-and-sour, 171-72

ribs,

Spicy beef slices with tangerine peel,

crispy shrimps with salt and,

fish

Spare

86-87

1

318-19 9-20

fine banquet, 3

338-339

1

fresh fava beans

wontons

in

in clear,

a simple stock sauce,

1

60-6

106

393

1

1

1

1

land of plenty

Stoves, 50 Strainer,

49

Strange-flavor,

Strange-flavor peanuts,

1

hu dou,

ni

wei xing, 354

Sweet

90

6

1

84-87 balls,

133

1

30-3

wrapped

in

leaves,

35

Sweet wheaten

paste,

Sweet-and-sour crispy

fish,

Sweet-and-sour

357

flavor,

Sweet-and-sour pork, 210-12 Sweet-and-sour red peppers,

glutinous rice balls with sesame stuffing,

Mr.

Lai's

Mr

Xie's sea-flavor noodles,

Sweet-and-sour spare

ribs,

1

54-55

171-72

97-100

balls,

1

93-95

tai bai

pot-sticker dumplings with chicken stock,

245—47

ji,

tang cu cui pi

112-14

tang cu

li

ji,

yu,

264-67

210-12

309-

rippled-silk fried dumplings, 132

tang cu ou plan,

Sichuanese flatbreads, 133

tang cu pai gu, 171 -72

spicy cold noodles with chicken slivers, spicy noodles with soft bean curd,

starch

jellies,

95-97

92-93

1

stuffed eggy pancakes,

22-24

I

1

0-1

I

"three cannonshots,"

I

"Three cannonshots," tian jiao niu rou tian

91-92

ground

32 325-26 1

262-64

suan

cai yu, la

chao

suan

la

dou

suan

la

rou

suan

la

wei xing, 355

suan

ni bai rou,

1

1

fried

1

329-3

46—48

356

288-89

egg and tomato soup, 306

1

-3

Trivet,

305-6

49

Twice-cooked pork, 94-96 1

Vegetables,

07

29

tang,

208

fried eggs with,

Stuffed eggplant fritters with Sichuan pepper, 30

17-18

Tomatoes:

pork, 306-7

suan

bai,

1

234—35

Tiger-skin green peppers,

1

Stuffed eggy pancakes,

shao

si,

tian xiang wei xing,

Zheng zheng cakes, 3 1-32 "Zhong" crescent dumplings, 100-103 String beans, pickled string beans with

1

77-79 1

17-18

Yibin "kindling" noodles,

65-67

Texture, 31-32

Xie Laoban's dan dan noodles, 89-90

siiou,

te zhi qing tang, 3

Tea, 27,

1

355 9-20

flavor,

Tea-smoked duck, 80-83

32

1

wontons, 104-7

liua,

133

zi,

Tangerine-peel

sweet potato cakes, 118-19

si

54-55

spicy beef slices with, rolls,

steamed pork and pumpkin dumplings,

tang,

1

Tangerine peel, 76—77

steamed pork and cabbage dumplings, 111-12

si

jiao,

tang you guo stuffing,

124-26

steamed flower

suan cai ji

tang cu tian

1

tang cu wei xing, 357

34—35

1

steamed buns with spicy bean sprout

394

245—47

Tai Bai chicken,

20-2

282-85

pickled, see Pickled vegetables stir-fried

mixed, 308-9

Vegetarianism, 24 Vinegar, 79

chicken with,

151-52

264-67

leaf-wrapped glutinous rice dumplings, 107-9 1

chips,

76

"Long" wonton dumplings, 04-7

pearly rice

338-39

356

lamp-shadow sweet potato

bamboo

134 1

crystal sugar soup,

in

flavor,

cakes, 118-19

steamed dumplings, 114-16

golden-thread noodles,

341—42

pudding, 340

Sweet potato(es):

26-29

glutinous rice cones

fungus

silver ear

Sweet fragrant

eight-treasure black rice porridge, 1

wok

eight-treasure

dan dan noodles, 87-88

flower bean curd,

dishes:

eight-treasure rice pudding,

carannelized glutinous rice

"glassy"

ni

suan

Sweet corn kernels with green peppers, 299-300

353

Strange-flavor chicken, 144—46

Street food, 22,

suan

241—43

1

1

1

1

INDEX

Water

spinach, stir-fried

water spinach with

chile

and Sichuan pepper, 295-96

xiang zao wei xing, 356

43

xiao chao,

White pepper, 80 White radish:

111-12

Xiao long zhengjiao,

Xie Laoban's dan dan noodles, 89-90

pork and white radish soup, 323-24 red-braised beef with, 232-33

Whitebait, hot-and-numbing tiny

Ya fish,

280-81

cai,

70-7

yan dan, 69-70

212-13

Wild duck braised with konnyaku "bean curd," 256-57

yan jian

rou,

yan

hu dou,

Wine, 26-27

yan shui qing dou,

sliui

Wines, cooking, 57

yan xian wei

Wok, 47^8

ye'erba, 107-9

lid

and stand, 48

seasoning

of,

taking care

1

47—48

yi

356

xing,

Yibin "kindling" noodles,

338-39

you su hua

ren,

Wontons, 104-7

yu

clear stock, 106

yu xiang ji

in

hot-and-sour soup, 107

yu xiang qie

zi,

yu xiang rou

si,

Wood wu wu

for,

07

1

ear mushrooms, 58-59

33 1-33

42—43

in

wrappers

tang,

316-17

fu,

si,

91-92

9

1

wang zhu sun

yu xiang dou

216-17

1

yin'er geng,

sauce, 106

slivers with,

9 -92

bin ran mian,

Wok brush, 48 Wok scoop, 48 in chili-oil

1

6

1

Yellow chives, pork

4 —42, 47

of,

60-6

1

1

285-87 96-98

1

yu xiang wei xing, 353

xiang wei xing, 356 xiang xun yu,

69-7

1

zha

cai rou

213-14

si,

zha shou dishes, 161-63 xian,

28-30

zhang cha ya

xiantang, 318-19

254-55

xiang su quan

ya,

xiang you hua

cai,

xiang you ku gua,

xiang you

xi

xiang zoo

ji

jiao,

zheng zheng gao, zhi guo,

1

1

1

57

57 1

57

83-84

zhi

ma

80-83 1

20-2

cakes,

57

nan hua, tiao,

Zheng zheng

1

zi,

56-57

1

1

xiang you qing yuan,

xiang you tian

zi,

zhen zhu yuan

1

3

3

1

1

1

1-32

-32

4 —42 1

niu rou

si,

1

67-69

"Zhong" crescent dumplings, 100-103 Zhong shui jiao, 00- 03 1

Zucchini slivers with

1

garlic,

303-4

395

.

a

note about the author

Fuchsia Dunlop studied Sichuanese cooking as a full-time student at the

Sichuan Institute of Higher Cuisine

1994 to 1996. She was the

first

Chengdu, China, where she

foreigner to enroll as a regular student

tute's professional training course.

World

in

She

now

lives in

lived

from

the

insti-

London, works for the

BBC

in

Service, and writes about Chinese food and current affairs for the

Economist, the Guardian Weekly, China ReWevv, Ttie Observer, The Asian Wall Street journal,

at

Food and

Travel,

and Radio

4's

The Food Programme. Fuchsia was educated

Magdalene College, Cambridge; Westminster University; and the School of

Oriental and African Studies. The British edition of this

Food Writers' Jeremy Round Award for best

first

book won the Guild of

book of 200

1

BOSTON PUBLIC LIBRARY

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transport you to

another world.

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"'ed

to read cookbooks,

book's unique features: a pantry

this

section that describes

to make

the ingredients you need

all

the recipes; detailed

lists

of the 23 recog-

nized flavor combinations and 56 cooking

used

in

methods

Sichuanese cuisine; 16 color pictures of

the ingredients and finished dishes; a double-page

map

of the region; and Chinese characters through-

out, useful for shopping.

FUCHSIA DUNLOP

studied Sichuanese cook-

ing as a full-time student at the Sichuan Institute of

Higher Cuisine

in

Chengdu, China. She

an East Asia specialist at the

BBC World

writes about Chinese food and current

4's

as

Service and

affairs for

the

Guardian Week/y, China Review, and

Economist, the

Radio

now works

The Food Programme. She speaks, reads, and

writes Chinese.

In Britain,

Fuchsia

was educated

at

Magdalene College, Cambridge; Westminster University;

and the School of Oriental and African Studies.

Land of Plenty

won

the British Guild of Food Writers

Jeremy Round Awar JACKET DESIGN BY

jDMAN

r

JACKET PHOTOGR

AUTHOR PRINTED

/

BLUE

lAM MEPPEM ^N

GUMMING

,ATES OF

AMERICA

ANCHOR DESIGN

OR FUCHSIA DUNLOP'S

land of plenty

"The sort of eye-opening, groundbreaking, reporting-

"Sichuanese food has intrigued and enraptured the

from-the-source kind of cookbook that

Western

until

previ-

ously has been restricted to the provincial cooking

of

Italy

and France. Now, out of the blue,

we

have a

China's

most celebrated

with

written

intelligence,

it's

In

been years since a cookbook has excited

takes

cuisines."

short,

me

as

"With the

much

book that

a

A SPOONFUL OF GINGER

sympathy, and

impressive attention to the smallest details.

Now, finally

—NINA SIMONDS. AUTHOR OF

seminal exploration of one of China's great regional cuisines,

palate for ages.

you to the source and unlocks the secrets of one of

publication of her first

official

book [Land

as this one."

—JOHN THORNE. AUTHOR OF

THE OUTLAW COOK

of

Fuchsia Dunlop joins the ranks of literary

Plenty],

food writers such as Elizabeth David and Claudia Roden."

—THE INDEPENDENT "Fuchsia Dunlop's

book shows an understanding

Sichuan cooking that

is

unique to

my knowledge.

of It's

"You may not think you need a book on the cooking for those

on the lookout for

real information

about of the Sichuan province

one of the world's most

small, perfect

misrepresented) cuisines."

—BRUCE

"It is a

COST,

AUTHOR OF

very long time since

I

ASIAN INGREDIENTS

saw a new book which

so patently an absolute 'must.' With this

first

book

is

illuminating

—THE LONDON

"A masterly pae^n

known is

Southwest China but

in

this

varied, full-flavored (and often

and appealing."

TIMES

to the cooking of one of the least-

provinces of China and

it

looks set to

become

book, a classic.

Fuchsia Dunlop has immediately established a

.

.

.

This

is

new

the cookbook you didn't

know

you needed."

benchmark

for excellence. The depth of research and

elegance of presentation conspire to

make her book

— LINDSEY

BAREHAM, WINNER, GLENFIDDICH

AND ANDR^ SIMON AWARDS

a real treasure."

—ALAN DAVIDSON. AUTHOR OF THE OXFORD COMPANION TO FOOD

"Already one of the essential texts written English language."

— TIME

"Fuchsia Dunlop

is

one of

Chinese food, and [Land

siastic

.

.

.

53000

780393"051773

www.wwnorton.com www.nortoncooks.com

W. W.

NORTON LONDON

NEW YORK

•

the

best writers on

makes

this thrilling

amateur but enthu-

cook."

—GUY DIMOND, FOOD

ISBN 0-393-05177-3

9

Britain's

of Plenty]

regional cuisine accessible to the

COOKING

in

OUT

EDITOR, TIME OUT