Diary 1908

Diary 1908 Evelyn Wolfe Murray. Dum - Dum Memoranda. Come to me in my dreams. I Come to me in my dreams and say Sweet words I never heard by day and murmur tenderly and low and take my hand and kiss my brow. II. and I will whisper all night through What I can only say to you My thoughts I had my life I planned That only you can understand III. Rest with me love until the dawn Then kiss me once and pass away And I will waken dear to weep You can but kiss me in my sleep. Far Far away in the land of dreams I have seen your dear dear form But oh! The sorrow when I wake For you dear love have gone Then I vainly strive to call you back But your face I cannot see And I wander on thro' dreamland But you will not come to me Secretary B. of Ag. & Fisheries 4 Whitehall Place. S.W. Books to be bought or remembered "Little Rivers" Henry van dyke Pub Chas Scribners Sons, New York Another Point of View R Lydon The inevitable Law July of quarterly Unrest in India Simla 4 small book cases 6 prs candlesticks 3 looking glasses 6 candelabras 3 writing paper racks Things to be bought Small bottle of whisky Purple damask table cloth Glass-cloth dusters 3 small size table cloths

Dessert knives & forks Gilt things re-gilded & champagne bottle 1 doze fine face towels 1/2 doz. Pairs Small linen sheets January 1st 3 Outram St Calcutta. Had a very jolly dance at Golightly and home at 1:30. Went to Proclamation Parade - motored Mr Fletcher there. A. looked very well as he passed, ditto the Regiment. 2nd 3 Outram St Calcutta. February 27. Dum-Dum. Motored in a.m. 48 Theatre Road and interviewed durzie. Getting a regular trousseau for home. Find I am absolutely destitute of garments. Went to High Court to hear Murder Trial again - not nearly so interesting as on Tuesday. Dined 8:30 at Mess - as Mr Alston's guests - a very jolly evening. Played Bridge after - A and I versus Mr Alston and Captain Walker. - we lost heavily! 28th. Motored in about 1 and went to High Court, where spent a most interesting day. Lunched in Judge Rampini's rooms with Mr R, Mr Silk and Mrs McCalmont. Eardly Morton's defence masterly. Mr Harington's summing up surprised me it was so good. Collins for night dinner party and dance at Sat Club "quelle collection"! Enjoyed myself quite but felt the want of a friend at these sort of sulerlamments Saturday 29th 4 Hungerford St Calcutta. Shopped am. lunched 4 H.S. and to races with Collins. A. had to go out to Dum early and on today with Willy Muir to his camp. A boring day and lost money. Motored Elsie home and then on to Elizabeth. Dined with Mr Rodo, Colonel Cowan, Mrs Harry, Mr C also there. On to party at Golightly very nicely done and enjoyed it. Elizabeth had a great time! As usual we were swept out with the crumbs. March 1st 48 Theatre Rd Calcutta. Both E and I very tired and slack after last night. Got up about 12 and motored out to Dum. Found Mail and l.p.j very dim. To tea with C Bakers and then lay out on charbutia till dinner time and after. Discussed the affairs of the nation as regards our two selves in and out. Think E's

attack is quite as bad as mine. A glorious night I am enjoying E being here. 2nd Dum Dum. Motored E round by Orderly Room and Casserina Avenue to show her A's cotton tree. Rather past its glory. In to lunch at Theatre Road and on to Maclean's concert with Mrs Harry, Mr C. Concert good enjoyed Vi M's singing far the most. Dressed at Elizabeth's and then motored to Barakpore to dine with Viceroy. Il etait tres chic. I sat on his left and he talked to me all the time after dinner. A.I.g rather unpleasant. 3rd Dum Dum. At Home Ladies Golf Club p.m. Quite amusing. A. didn't do well, missed winning putting competition by one stroke. A. had to leave before me as he had a night attack. Mr Fletcher lent me his carriage to go to Station and I came out by train. 4th Dum Dum. Mrs Clinton Baker came over to look at things we have for Sale - am hoping she will buy a good many. 12 Miss Prophet and with her to Tollygunge where we spent a long day chiefly discussing our neighbours. Motored myself out to Dum very dark and very foggy. Dined with Durants a gru party, they are really an awful family. Left as early as we could. 5th Dum Dum. Jack White and wife came to lunch 4 p.m we motored them to train and Mr Acklom and I went on to Barrackpore *2 to tea with Captain and Mrs Graham. Mr Lilburn there just back looking very well and strong. Motor went vilely consequently not home till 8:30. 6th Dum Dum Motored to lunch with Elizabeth. First went to see Col Peck. He examined me and recommended an operation. Am to go into a Nursing Home on Monday. To a Bazaar at Kidderpore at 4 with A. and Elizabeth where Macleans were selling, then on to a garden-party at Fort by Mrs Sclater and Mrs Martin. His Exellency there. Had a divine talk with him. He is really getting quite allume! Car had to go to Kilburn so out by 8:10 train. Saturday 7th Dum Dum Clinton Bakers motored us in to lunch with Sutherlands and then on to races. Very hot there but enjoyed myself and very sorry to leave early as CBs wanted to come home and A. was dining at

Club. Had a nice talk with His Exellency who remarked that I do not appear to be much at Dum. Il est chic comme un coeur! Slept on verandah _d-d hot A turned up late after I had gone to bed. Sunday 8th Dum Dum Spent a very busy morning packing up things for 'Pioneer' sales. They are not very prosperous just now. Major Ross arrived from Dinapore and stays with us till he goes home via Calcutta.. Dorothy Douglas and Mr Brown motored out to tea both very beamive. Took us and Major Ross in later We dined with the Pecks a gru party both bored to tears. Out by 11 train. 9th Dum Dum Occupied myself all morning putting my 'house in order'. Motored in about 4 did shopping and then to Theatre Rd. Helped Elizabeth to prepare for her dinner party of 24 and lent her some of our silver. To Nursing Home about 7. Put straight to bed given an enormous dose of castor oil and inspected by Beck. No food and so to bed. Seems a very nice Home and I have a nice room. 10th. 8/1/3 London Street. Calcutta. Several unpleasant performances began from 6:30 onwards and continued till 9 when I was led to the "theatre". After which I remember nothing till 11:30 when I came to feeling somewhat fragile. A. came in p.m. But I would'nt see anyone else. Very sorry for myself all day. 11th 8/1/3 London Street Calcutta. Passed wretched night could'nt sleep. Better today feel quite different. Elizabeth came to see me and A. Norman Mitchell Innes sent lovely roses. Most comfortable home and I have a delightful and merry nurse Gent by name. 12th 8/1/3 London Street Calcutta. Better night though not good. Got holey net and mosquitoes a great bother. A. spent most of the day with me and had several visitors who helped to pass the time. Everyone is awfully kind and bring books, papers, flowers and c. Miss Prophit, Mrs Cogswell, Mrs Sclater, Gwen Trevor and Elizabeth (daily) are among my visitors. 13th 8/1/3 London St Calcutta. Am getting a bit fed up with bed but am comfortable nevertheless and feel the rest is doing me good. Is practically decided that I don’t go home this summer but go to Simla for May

and Kashmir with A for June and July. I think perhaps it would be better thus. 14th 8/1/3 London St Calcutta. A. came in am. and went racing and won Rs 300/- come in useful at such a juncture. I must organise some more sales on my return to Dum. Getting very hot wonder what the thermometer is at. 15th 8/1/3 London St Calcutta. A most boring and depressing day. A. came late having had a late night at Bengal Club and lost Rs 500/! Lucky he won at races yesterday. It is wonderful the amount of money we seem to get through we must cry a halt somewhere! A.. golfed at Tollygunge pm and brought Norman Mitchell Innes in later. Wonder whether I shall go home or not this summer! Think not. Everyone who comes in says how hot it has got. Can't say I feel it. 16th 8/1/3 London St. Calcutta. A much better day than yesterday. Mrs Ross Craik came a.m. also Dorothy who brought flowers and strawberries. Usual visits from Peck he looks very seedy poor old chap. I can't imagine how he can operate he looks so shaky. Gwen Trevor came late she is getting gi-normous. 17th 8/1/3 London St. Calcutta. Feeling much fitter. Up again on chair. Mrs Dudley Myen paid long visit a.m. PM Mrs Cogswell, Gwen Trevor, Elizabeth and Grace. Latter looking very well. A came about 3 - 6. Weather getting decidedly hotter. Enc? arrived at 4 p.m. 18th 8/1/3 London St Calcutta. Stayed in bed all day. Visit from Dorothy Douglas a.m. seems very beaming and pleased with her Bruno who is well. A. came at 3 and stayed till 6. Sent Nurse Gent out in motor for an hour she was delighted. Was to have gone to Mrs Collins today but owing to Eve?. Decided to stay on here till Monday and then straight to Dum. Heard from J. written almost every day. 19th 8/1/3 London St. Calcutta. In bed all morning Grace came and paid a long visit. Looks very well quite mad. A. here all a.m. Letter from Jim wonder what he'll say to my not going home? Says he's coming to Calcutta after Kadir, on business. Do hope he'll win. Up p.m. Miss Prophit came and A. later at 9. Snubbie turned up having come here from Bengal Club where A. was dining. A. golfed at Tollygunge pm with Mr Roe. Wrote a few

letters and intimated I was not coming home. Feel sad at thought but know 'tis best. 20th 8/1 London St. Calcutta. Better but very groggy. Got up. A. came to fetch me and took me for a drive in Mr Fletcher's carriage. Horses went vilely so felt very nervous and did'nt enjoy myself at all. Hot all day but fairly cool at night. Saturday 21st 8/1 London St Calcutta. A. took me for a drive p.m. in motor, which I enjoyed ever so much more than the carriage of pity.(yesterday?) Went up and down Red Road. Saw several people I knew. Feel very weak still and not able to do anything. Heard from Jim he had bad luck in Kadir and got knocked out almost at once. Sunday 22nd 8/1 London St Calcutta. Hate having to get up every day such a fag would much rather remain in bed. A. golfed at Tollygunge but came back early and took me out for a turn in motor. We went to Tollygunge. My nerves are not in a good state, but are better. Saw the C. Bakers there with Mrs Alston she is getting ginormous. 23rd 8/1 London St Calcutta. R night. Got up leisurely. Packed a certain amount, and went to say goodbye to the patients. A. fetched me about 4:30 went to 48 Theatre Rd to tea with Elizabeth and Grace and then motored out to Dum. The C Bakers came to call to see how I was. Then went to bed where I dined. A.1. dinner very glad to be back again. 24th Dum Dum. Spent a very idle day am still feeling a decided crock. Very hot but feels much cooler out here than in Calcutta. Heard from Jim he expects to arrive Friday or Saturday. Seems much depressed over his bad luck in Kadir am so sorry he did'nt do better. A. took me for a drive in evening. To bed before dinner feeling dead. This heat is very trying. 25th Dum Dum. R.n. Went into Calcutta early, rested at Theatre Road and to Col. Pecks at 11:30, for final examination. To my relief vetted me quite sound. He leaves this evening for home. Poor old man looks most awfully ill as if he could not get better. A. turned up to lunch and we returned to Dum in cool of evening. It is abnormally hot which I find very

trying. Expect it will take me some time to pick up again. 1 26th Dum Dum. Wrote Mail letters most of day and A. went into Calcutta for final Bridge. It is sad that he has not had such a profitable year and our expenses seem to have increased 10 fold. Must endeavour to economise somehow. My 'Home Passage Fund' has now dwindled to a deficit and Kashmir will about break us I guess. Had a visit from Mrs C Baker she is certainly awfully kind. They have asked us to stay with them for our packing up, which will be a great convenience. 27th March. Dum Dum. Feeling much better weather still disagreeably hot and relaxing. Mrs Turner and her daughter came to tea and were very enthusiastic about everything in the house perhaps chiefly the lamp shades. A. went into Calcutta. Car running beautifully it will be quite a wrench to leave it. Saturday 28th Dum Dum. Wire from Jim saying he is delayed in Delhi on account of illness hope he is not really bad. Went pm. to say goodbye to soldiers' wives also to see Mrs Kelt's baby which looks a fine infant. Some of them from the Mess came to dinner. Sunday 29th Dum Dum. Expected Jim and waited for him. When got wire to say he was ill and has gone to Bengal Club. Very disappointed. Went out to Barrackpore and had a glorious day. Very hot Grace also there. After tea, she, Elizabeth and I went on to river in small boat lovely. A and G played two rounds of golf. Motored back to Dum after dinner, car went beautifully, was very tired but enjoyed my day. 30th Dum Dum. Went into Calcutta pm. to enquire after Jim. A. went to Club and found him out. Left note to ask him to come to Elizabeth's after 6. I had a lot of shopping to do. Met him en route there. Had a divine talk with him and was very glad to see him again. He looks very seedy and must have had an awful journey from Muttra. 31st Dum Dum 7 PM. Jim came out just before lunch delightful to have him back here again. He looks seedy and pulled down. A. went in to Calcutta we took him to station and then went along the Bilhaspur Road. Ran out of petrol and had an awful hunt for some and

consequently turned up very late at Elizabeth's to dinner. Nice party but wished myself at home. Jim better but still seedy. Weather frightfully hot never remember it so bad all last summer. April 1st Dum Dum. 10am - 10pm. In bed to breakfast. Jim went of to his office after but returned to lunch. A grilling day a? they say. A. went into Calcutta to bridge and dine and we went for a turn down the Barrackpore Road. Jim very exhausted and quite collapsed on our return, but revived with brandy and quite alright by dinner time. Had a nice evening and he was quite all right. A. returned in small hours of morning having won. Heard news about dear Aunt Ida. 2nd Dum Dum. 8:30pm. Jim went into Calcutta after breakfast. Wrote letters am. And about 4 went into Calcutta to shop. Started back with Jim at 6 leaving A to play. Got as far as Srulda? when car broke down and refused to move. Jim tinkered at it for about an hour and then we went to Station and waited for 8 train. Home in cab. Very tired and went to bed early. A thought we had either eloped or else broken down. 3rd Dum Dum. 10AM. Another frightfully hot day. Jim took a holiday and did not go to Calcutta. All went in after lunch to Polo but there was none. Jim and I to see Crums and then Elizabeth. Out again before dinner. After dinner sat out on charbuttia. A. and I had a row but made it up again. Almost a 1st class one. Felt very depressed at it being Jim's last day. I wish he had'nt got to go tomorrow. 4th Dum Dum 10AM 10. Jim went off after breakfast to Bombay by 2 trains. Started to demolish the house after he left, began with pictures which we tore down and pasted brown paper over. We sent Jim in in car and to take him to Howrah it turned up again about five. We then went to pay farewell visits to wives also to see the Kelt baby. Who looks a nice little chap. Feeling very sad and depressed also rather seedy. 5th Dum Dum Packed and arranged all morning felt very sad and depressed. A. is being so nice and sweet I must pull myself together. After lunch motored in to Calcutta. A

went to Tollygunge. I rested for a bit at Theatre Road and drove out with Elizabeth later. Saw and said good-bye to a good many people. Our last time at Tollygunge which makes me very sad. Dressed at Theatre Road and dined with the Crums. Home after. 6th This house is getting thoroughly uncomfortable packed hard the whole day practically. Wonder when we shall meet any of our boxes again! Far if things are as one can but surmise. I don't see much chance or opportunity of setting up house at Lucknow this winter. Feel very sad at the thought of leaving this place. 7th Dum Dum. Another day of packing. A. went into Calcutta pm. and arranged for man to come out from Whiteways. Had an interview with a woman just arrived here she will buy all pots and palms etc and a few other ? but won't pay much I fear. A very stifling day. Dined at ten as Mr Acklom's guests a very jolly evening. 8th Dum Dum The packer from Whitaways arrived early poor brute, he must have had a desperate time in the awful heat. Felt very down and exhausted altho' I am exerting myself as little as possible. Dined at Mess had the pipes. Played Bridge after. Enjoy these "military" evenings very much. 9th Dum Dum Nearly finished this desperate packing. Man from Whitaway completed his work he certainly has toiled like a galley slave. Quite sad at this being our last day in this house altho' it is the acme of discomfort at this minute. Dined again at Mess. They really have been very kind and hospitable to us. 10th Dum Dum Packed all am and practically finished up. Went over to C. Bakers to lunch and stay with them till we go. Back again after to no 30 and into Calcutta to Golightly to shop and to see Elizabeth who goes to Darjeeling to-morrow. Saw lots at Golightly Miss Prophit, Ron Craiks, Fuzzy, Collins, Charlie Bayly all seemed sorry we are off. Back about 8 Mr. Alston and Mr Rorison to dinner. 11th 2 The Mall. Dum Dum Went over to No 30 to finally superintend the transfer of our things which we have sold. House looks most desolate and deserted. Spent most of the day putting ribbons in new underclothes and

sorting all my packing. The C.Bakers certainly are very kind altho' to my mind he is of the boring and worthy type. This house ever so much hotter than ours, one seems to feel it particularly at night. 12th 2 The Mall Dum Dum Made a final excursion over to our house to finally wind up things. Started forth on a round of visits at tea time por dire adieu. Sterndales, Durants, Walkers (who also killed Whitways with same stone) Mrs White and Mrs Turner. To others I sent PPCs. After dinner started forth to Howrah in motor and got there in plenty of time in spite of 1 puncture. Found every thing ready and in order at station. Really very sorry to leave dear Dum. 13th Dinapore. Found Stocks cart at station to meet us, in which we had a long and bumpy drive to house. Mrs S up to receive us. Ages before boxes turned up. Nice little house tho' with no comforts and bad servants. Very hot but one seems to feel it less than at Dum. Slept pm and then went out to Club. To my mind a grim spot and I am certain that if I lived here I should never go near the place. 14th Dinapore Feel very limp and slack here but am probably done up after packing and c. no sign of Eve which is most suspicious. Went to Mess after tea and saw Sergeant Underwood and all his treasures. Also a brute of a dog. We keep on blessing our stars who took us to Dum and not here. To Club again about 6 females always there of the true qui-hi type. 20 15th Dinapore The Stocks are more than kind but I can't help feeling frightfully bored here. My only consolations are letters from Jim which are very regular and very welcome. Usual siesta after lunch and then out to Polo. A played Noel. Quite a nice ground. Saw Nora's brother John who has just arrived with his Regiment 7th Rajputs. To Club again can't say how I detest the place as I'm afraid I'd hurt Mrs S's feelings. 16th Dinapore A. played golf after tea with W. Cameron. Mrs Stock and I went to see V. Sergeant House and family. All say they think A. looks really well. 17th Dinapore Met Mr Low for 1st time Mrs Normald's brother, seems nice youth tho' painfully shy. He and Mr Campbell came to

dinner. Think the latter is quite my favourite in Regiment. Still grimly hot and feel very slack and seedy. Saturday 18th Dinapore. Mrs Stock took me to call on some of her celebrities but found them all out bar Herberts. (He is a brother of Helen's Lionel) Then on to Polo which is the only amusement here. A. seems to be quite holding his own. I wonder whether he will go in for many ponies in Lucknow. I hope not as I know we're broke although we always seem to have plenty money! Sunday 19th Dinapore Did'nt go to church am. as it was at some unearthly hour. Went to evening service at which Snubbie disgraced himself and came into church. Before church went to tea with Herberts. They have quite one of the nicest houses here on the river. Mr Inglis dined, they played Bridge after, I did not compete. 20th Dinapore Had'nt herd from Jim several days but got 2 today. He has just got back from Karachi. I am feeling very low as 25th approaches. In some ways I think it would have been better had I gone home but on the whole better that I should not. And I ought to have a cheap time at Simla. A perhaps can save some money. Polo again and after Club. I could scream from boredom of the latter. I don't know how Mrs S can go there every night. 21st Dinapore Have the greatest difficulty in filling these pages. The usual sort of day wrote am. slept pm. Mr Campbell to tea and I went out boating with him after which I enjoyed. The others played golf. The Rajputs dined at Mess. Mrs S and I had a tete a tete. She is a kind creature but my heavens how she talks! Have never known anyone to beat her! 22nd Polo again in evening and Club again for last time I do hope and pray. Why were such hellish places ever invented surely they are quite unnecessary. Think this place gets hotter every day. I do pity A. so having to be here for so long. We went and saw Sergeant Shaw? who has had fever in Hospital. Hugh not well went to bed pm. Doctors say its liver. 23rd Dinapore Wrote a whole crowd of letters but my packet of unanswered ones is nearly as big as ever. Hugh much better, tho' not himself

yet. He went down to meet Col S on his return from Mussoorie about 6. I went for a walk across the Maidan and watched footie? Then towards Club and met A. and Mrs Stock. They had played golf versus the Herberts and had beaten them. Col S and Mr Cameron dined the former looks very prosperous and old but very affable. 24th Dinapore 30 Got up about 5 and started off for station. Not sorry to see the last of this place, but sorry to say goodbye to the Stocks, who have been so kind. Carriage to ourselves, very hot, 110 most of day. Snubbie felt it very much. At Etawah when we got into dining-car for dinner lost Snubs! A. got out at following station and went back to look for him. Felt quite confident he'd find him. Slept badly felt nervous at train murderers! Saturday 25th Craigdhu Simla got wire from A. at Kalka to say no sign of Snubbie much depressed in consequence. Saw Viceroy and Staff there very sympathetic. Got up to Simla about 4 and met by other wire from A. to say dog was found. Great joy. Glorious air up here. Rickshawed to house such a pretty one with what must be glorious views but today cloudy. Very tired so to bed before dinner and thankful to get there. Two letters from Jim. Felt sad at not being on Macedonia but think best as it is. Sunday26th Craigdhu Simla. Stayed in bed till 12 then took short walk and met Miss Scott on way back from church. PM went down to meet A. and Snub overjoyed to see them. Poor A. very tired after a desperate 24 hours at Etawah. Thankful he went back as am sure Lobo would never have found dog. A few people to tea one Mrs Pearce knew Anne P? et soeur, a most talkative old party. Very tired still, to bed early. Delighted to have A. back again. 27th Craigdhu Simla A glorious view to-day of hills and snow. Went out am. With A. I in rickshaw to write names at Snowdon. Met Nora Treherne and Mrs Birdwood, also saw Mrs Sclater, who also chucked Macedonia, but thinks of going next week. To shops and back to lunch. PM went out again and dropped A. at United Services Club to play bridge and I went to Hotel Cecil to see if I could find Mrs Cogswell but not at home. Do'nt intend to go

in for any calling at all, car je suis sur que cest un infant. 28th Craigdhu Simla This place is much prettier than I thought far finer than Chakrata. To town am. with A. PM to see "Eddliston" and Barnes Court with A. and General Scott. We dropped A. at Club. Thought our host would object but is very nice about it and does not seem to mind. Sclaters and General Cowan to dinner, the latter in great form. There seems to be a good chance of General S. becoming General at Lucknow. I hope he does. 29th Craigdhu Simla Felt rather seedy sat out with A. in garden all am. PM down to Annandale with A. and General Scott. A pretty place but miles down and a fatiguing journey. Saw Major Hambro' down there. Glad he is up here and hope I shall see something of him. One Colonel Thompson to dinner he used to know Uncle Wolfe at St Andrews. Felt very tired after dinner also rather seedy before. Got our Mail beautiful letter from Hilda also dear Aunt Ida's note. 30th Craigdhu Simla In bed all morning and wrote some Mail letters. Rained pm and much colder only went out for short walk before dinner. M Hawkes came to call but I avoided them. A letter from Victor Brooke to ask me to enter for Affinity races with him. Accepted with reluctance these things bore me. Felt very seedy before dinner can't say I think I'm altogether robust! May 1st Craigdhu Simla. Another glorious day am went shopping with A. and bought puggries and c for Jhampanis. Chose pale blue look rather nice. Met Major Hambro' on our return had been to call. PM slept A. and General Scott rode out to Mashotra Tunnel. Lilian and I went to see Mrs Maconchy's house and then for a bit round Jacko. Felt rather seedy before dinner but better after. To bed after. A's last day. Saturday 2nd Craigdhu Simla A left about 10 hope to see him back on 1st. Miss him badly. Started at 1pm for Annandale for Captain Mackenzie's luncheon party which was great fun. Sat on left of Viceroy, Lady Dane on his other. Il etait chic come un coeur and I fancy I was rather the cynosure of all! Races quite

amusing spoke most afternoon to Colonel Brooke qui j'aime beaucoup, but of course his heart is a la Carlton Hotel with room for quite 500. Sat talking to him till late and home at 7.30. Felt very lonely. Sunday 3rd Craigdhu Simla to church am. packed. Home 10 very frugal meal! Mr Harvey (A's friend) came to call. PM slept and a lady to tea. Then I went out for a turn in rickshaw. Must try to get some exercise but its all so hilly. A note from Mrs Mabon asking me to dine, but refused. Met her yesterday and like her. My jhampannies suits have been much admired they look very nice. Wrote to A. 4th Craigdhu Simla Very cold and rainy morning wrote letters and read am. Climbed up a bit and went down to Polo with Lilian. She had never been down there before and knew 0 about it. Sat beside a lot of chattering women, including Mrs Massey whose daughter is engaged to Captain MacKenzie. Saw Major Hambro for a minute. Has asked me to play tennis but am quite sure I ought'nt to. Rather more quieting news from the Front. Home just before dinner. To bed early dogtired. 5th Craigdhu Simla Felt very sick and rather seedy most of the day. Went out in rickshaw am and called on some Elites most of them somewhat grand and boring. Back to lunch of a chicken drumstick. Maconchys came to tea and I went for a walk with General Scott after. To bed very early felt somewhat depressed and lonely. 6th Craigdhu Simla In bed all am. and wrote letters. Ditto pm. General Sclater turned up to stay at tea time (Mrs Sclater having gone home to day). I went walk with him after tea. General Scott at Naldera all day golfing with Colonel Thomson. No letter from A. very aggra-noying. Heard from Mrs Stock. Hugh and Mr Knight have gone up to Front to be attached to Seaforths. She has gone to Mussourie. 7th Craigdu Simla Felt very sick all day and am. absolutely jumpy about myself. Wrote many letters to Mail and had several callers which is rather boring, as I am not feeling a bit inclined to go out. Heard from A. Went a walk with Generals Sclater and Scott after tea.

Think I walked too far and too fast as left side quite painful. Must take care. Hilda writes to say Dariel's young man has jilted her am so sorry for the child. 8th Craigdhu Simla. Felt still very slack and seedy and pain in left side. Stayed in bed till tea time and felt better. To dinner with Jack Cowan a nice party had Captain Jelf after who m'a dit que Rowley in aimait beaucoup. Among the guests a lady of a rope of sham pearls and of questionable style Mrs Irvine by name evidently JC's amour for the moment. I think we left her there with him for the night! Saturday 9th Craigdhu Simla Went out to pay some calls am. Which I had put off for several days. After lunch went down to Annandale Gymkhana and enjoyed myself. Spent whole time with Captain Ross and Colonel Victor the latter most interesting about the Dane Mission to Kabul and as much as told me there would be an expedition. I pray the Highland Light Infantry may not go. Saw Major Hambro for a minute am. I rather wish he attended the Gymkhana I never seem to see him. Sunday 10th Craigdhu Simla wrote letters in garden all am. Had delightful letters from Jim and Elizabeth. Also from A. later. Cooler at Dinapore. General Sclater spent am. in his office, things are obviously brewing up here a bit. Wonder whether an expedition will be sent against the Amir or only the Mohmandi. Slept heavily after lunch and after tea went as far as Mashotra tunnel in rickshaw. Saw Major Hambro returning from Naldera but not to speak to. A. will probably not get back here again, but only get leave from 15th June now. Very provoking. Pored with rain all last night and thunder. 11th Craigdhu Simla. Feeling better but still get very depressed. Paid calls a.m. Very cold day like winter feel it awfully. PM Thought of going down to Polo but was none on account rain last night. Met Mrs and Miss Mahon riding, former asked me to stay but explained it was not possible. Dined tete a tete with General Sclater very enjoyable. A. seems quite fit and well. He can't apparently get away till 15th very tiresome. 12th Craigdhu Simla. A beautiful cold day I shivered. Meeting a.m. in drawing room

missionary quite interesting. PM Colonel Maconchy and Miss Stuart came for tennis. I played croquet for a short time with General Scott. Mercifully an urgent letter came for him so I was not tortured for long. Felt very sick all evening but have not actually been so yet. I also get so depressed here and the thoughts of going out anywhere are most distasteful. 13th Craigdhu Simla An utterly nasty day did not go out at all very cold snow and hail. Wrote a good many letters for Mail. Dinner party of 20 in evening, Hambro took me in, he was charming, I like him so much, he is interesting to talk to. Asked me if I would go to Black Hat dance on 2nd. Wish I could see more of him. Food not good but everyone seemed to enjoy themselves. Felt very sick before dinner. T. Mrs Pearse. 14th Craigdhu Simla 50 A much warmer day. Went out calling and finished the Aristocrats. Met Mrs Dudley who is staying with Mrs Buck. PM wrote Mail letters and slept. 8.15 Dined at Viceregal Lodge enjoyed myself immensely. Sat between Lord Francis and Colonel Dunlop Smith and after Rowley came and sat by me and was quite charming. Did'nt leave till 11.45 Mrs Butler was the Dame d'honneur and Mrs Mahonon left. Miss M and Mrs Birdwood were the only other ladies. 15th Craigdhu Simla Glorious day best we've had so far. Lazy as usual and only up a short time before lunch. 4.PM Started for Mashotra quite lovely out there. Had tea at Bendochy the Club. Home at 7 to bed early. Still so slack began Sanatogen again must endeavour to continue. 16th Craigdhu Much hotter day did not get up till luncheon time. Felt very dicky am. Better pm. Set of to Annandale, arrived late as Snubs went missing. Spoke to Captain Ross, The Masseys, Mrs Dudley and dear Major Hambro. Quite unusual and unexpected him being there. Je crois qu'il est un peu epris and I certainly am! To bed ealy as usual very tired. Snubbie was absent all day and only turned up about 12. Sunday 17th Craigdhu To church by myself arrived very late as all clocks here so slow. Met no-one I knew. Slept pm. And the felt so seedy went to bed for a bit instead of

appearing. Had meant to go along the Mashotra road but did'nt feel up to it. 18th Craigdhu My days are really uneventful as any invitation I get I either back out of or else refuse. Should have gone to tea wit Mrs Cobb but slept heavily and forgot all about her. Delightful evening at Squires Hall. Sat on left of Rowley who was sweet but rather busy with fairy on his right Mrs Spence by name. I chaperoned Miss Massey a tiresome girl I think. Don't care about Mrs Birdwood either. Like Mrs Hankey immensely staying at S?. Had long talk with Rowley after dinner. Home at 1.30. 19th Craigdhu feel beastly ill again think I must see a Doctor. The Maconches came pm to tennis, like him but don't like her. She is very 'indiany' and grand (?). On her departure went to Club to change some books. Met Mrs Jim Turner looking very ill. Says I am too which does not surprise me! 20th Craigdhu Loafed about all am. have hardly energy to move. Went out pm to a boring tennis party at Mrs Berringtons a lot of Simla cats there. Dinner party here in the evening a qru party. Sat next General Bayley who is vulgar I think. Spoke to Miss Cobb after dinner which I enjoyed. 21st Craigdhu Wretched night and giddy fits woke up 6 was sick and continued so till 1. A rag all day and in deepest blues. Impossible to go to Mrs Cogswell. Stayed in bed all day and felt better evening. Note from Hambro to say he can't manage Monday and asking tomorrow for Naldera. I said impossible. Snubbie very seedy vet coming tomorrow. Wrote no Mail at all. 22nd Craigdhu Decidedly better but most slack and limp. Snubs carried off to Hospital by Vet got a feverish catarrh. Up to lunch. PM Lilian went off to funeral of a poor girl who died last night at Elysium Hotel and who she came out on ship with. Went to bed before dinner but feeling better. Saturday 23rd Craigdhu Feeling rather less of a worm but still pretty fragile. Others all went off to Mashotra at 12. I had my meal and wrote letters in the tent and slept there pm. Went out about 5.30 to enquire for Snubbie but no luck as the babu man was out. Listened to a bit of

the 10th Hussars band on the plateau near the Club, very unfashionable thing to do I feel! Dined on sofa in small room. Major Heard came am. said both my digestion and liver all wrong gave me some muck to take. Sunday 24th Craigdhu Simla 60 Altogether better wrote and read English papers. No Mail from the Ocean today! Very glad. Rested pm and to tea with Mrs Carlyle a Sabbath day journey. General Sclater walked part of the way beside my rickshaw. Nice dinner party here in the evening General Cowans, General Richards amongst others. Hi Mr E.R is charming to talk to. Large baskets of roses and cherries with note from Major Hambro in the evening. Il devient allume. 25th Craigdhu Felt somewhat delicate am but much better. Cannot yet quite understand my internal economy altho' I don't think there should be much doubt. Went to Grand at 4 and on with Mrs Hankey to Polo. Sat afterwards surrounded by glittering staff. Hambro would not come up and speak for ages, which bored me. Eventually did and said he had got leave to go to Naldera on Wednesday. 26th Craigdhu Tennis party a frost as usual, two rather attractive American women turned up from Grand. Dined with the Barringtons cursed all the way there but quite enjoyed myself. A nice Colonel Bingly spoke to me after dinner he belongs to the 7th Rajputs who are at Dinapore. 27th Craigdhu Rather chippy early but much better. Started at 12 for Naldera Major Hambro meeting me in Lakkar Bazaar. Enjoyed my day enormously. A lovely road and H was so kind. We lunched on golf course, strolled about there and then back to Honnington a house he has at Mashobra but has not lived in it. Back at 7.45 very sorry a delightful day being oneself. Burra Khana at night saw Mr Barnard after many years. His wife seems charming. He has grown rather fat and old looking. 28th Craigdhu Feeling quite better, yesterday completed the cure. Went to Viceregal Lodge and wrote all our names in book then lunched with Mrs Cogswell. Dear vulgar old soul. Jabbered to her till 5 when down to glacier tennis court. Had meant to go to cricket, but did'nt like to alone. Hambro and Captain Basset once took me on the way home. Dined

tete a tete with General Sclater and entertained him with an account of the adventures of our youth. Feeling so well again. 29th Craigdhu On the whole much better. Dined with General Cowan and to the theatre after. Acting by amateurs chiefly Mrs Bingley and Mrs Fergusson. J.S.C's box next royal one so had plenty of conversation with Lord Minto. General Sclater and I went and returned together. A. arrives 14th hurrah! Went to Polo before with Mrs Hankey saw Hambro for half second only. 30th Craigdhu and Mashotra Called on the Grahams at Metropole Hotel at 1 and then to lunch with the Mahon's. Excellent meal. I do appreciate good lunches here! Down to Gymkhana at Annandale. Good fun. Spoke to both King and Queen. Am quite cut out by Mrs Spence with former but dare say I may recover! Out to Mashotra getting there just in time for dinner. Mrs Hankey rode out and apparently with Viceroy and Colonel Brooke. A bounder called Wynne at dinner at Bendochy who argued rudely and dined in jodhpores and smoked a pipe in the drawing room! 31st Mashotra Glorious morning felt so fit. Hambro came round to my rooms to say by all means sit in the Honnington garden. Looked very nice. Mail turned up. Nice letter from Jim. Loafed all am. in Bendochy. PM went to Honnington where we had sent our tea. Walked home with General Scott and fell in with Hambro who had been golfing at Naldera. We walked together to Gables Hotel. H. more allume than I have seen him yet. General Scott asked him to dine, but unluckily he could'nt. Mr Wynne again very unpleasant and again with jodhpurs and pipe. June 1st Craig Dhu Breakfasted 9 at Bendochy and left shortly after in rickshaw for Simla. General Scott and Sclater rode ahead. Found nice birthday letter from A. also lovely basket of flowers from Victor Brooke. I happened to mention the other day it was my birthday. Lunched with Jim Turner at Corstorphanes (nasty Hotel I thought) and to tea with Mrs Hastings. Very sick am. at the Gables while dressing and again before dinner. Rather relieved than otherwise! A gru burra khana of

20. A.q McLeod by name took me in. Was dog tired and very bored. 2nd Craig Dhu Slacked it am. and wrote letters. PM Garden party Viceregal Lodge very well done and quite amusing. Walked about by Lady Minto who I'm certain I don’t like much. Saw no-one of great interest. Dined here and then to Black Hearts Ball excellent. Enjoyed myself very much. Hambro was very nice I managed 9 with him including 3 at supper! I think he really loves someone at home, but is carrying on a quiet spangle here with Miss Shuster. Not home till 3. 3rd Craig Dhu 70 General Scott had large garden party here but like an angel said I might shirk. Rested all am. and to lunch with Mrs Buck. Mrs Dudley also there and a sad bounder Major Goodenough. Down to polo sat on opposite side in garden with Mrs Hankey and Miss Sturges. Right away from sun and dust. Saw a little of Hambro at end. Match was Viceroy's Staff versus K.D.Q. to everyone's grief the latter won. Home very late to bed as soon after dinner as possible. 4th Craig Dhu Wrote Mail busily. 2 PM to lunch with Quartermaster and Mrs Hawkes. Good food and much appreciated. To polo at Annandale, 1st Match Patiala versus 12th former won. 2nd Match Commander in Chief's Staff versus 17th Lancers former won midst much excitement. Sat in lower stand and was smothered in dust. Unluckily H chose to sit opposite under my tree!! Tea with Mrs Mahon under shamiana. Only had about three words conversation with H. He has asked me to keep a dance for him tomorrow night il n'est pas allume du tout j'en suis sure. 5th Craig Dhu Had to get up early as they spring cleaned my room. Wrote some letters a.m. PM dozed joined Mrs Hankey Grand Hotel 5 and on to Tennis Tournament Finals at Government House. Spoke a little to Rowley. Back to Dun? and dinner. State Ball enjoyed myself enormously probably on account of H! He was very late arriving but we danced and suppered 6 running. H.E sent for me but I was occupied. He spoke to me at end. Think H. was rather more allume he practically danced with no one else. I think with him I am Ek lumber. Nice talk with General Sclater,

Colonel Headlam and Colonel Victor. Home at 2.30 stayed till very end. 6th Craig Dhu Telephone from Mrs DeLisle asking me to lunch at Annandale, which I did. Good fun. Birdwood, Maxwell, General Sclater, General Cowan and Colonel Headlam the party. First match Major Hambro's team beaten by K.D.Qs. 2nd Chief's beaten by Patiala. Went over to garden for 2nd match. H came but barely spoke and did not see him again. Very disappointing. On the whole a dull day. Did not feel pleased with my appearance for one thing. 7th Craig Dhu Stupid letter from Jim also nice one from Elizabeth. Started 1.15 for Viceregal Lodge with General Sclater. Mrs Hankey and sister only party. Very nice. Shown over house pm. And gossipped in Her E's room till teatime on Terrace and after they played tennis. Viceroy and I looked on. He was in very depressed spirits. Weather very nasty. Awful thunderstorm and wind at night. Sir Herbert Risley and General Hickman dined dull dogs, especially latter. 8th Simla Very interesting morning went to Legislative Council and heard the new Explosives Act for suppression of present Anarchy being passed. Viceroy made a very good speech. Bad thunderstorm in night and then during Council with torrents of rain. PM went out to buy Captain Mackenzie a wedding present met the Grahames and walked a bit with them. Went to Cecil to enquire about rooms at a future date. After dinner had to say good bye to General Sclater felt very sad at his going. He will be a great miss. 9th Simla General Sclater left for England. Desperately sick am. and felt very sorry for myself. Recovered in time to start at 1pm for lunch at Annandale. Major Hambro and Mr Jelf's party 58. I sat at H's table but not beside him. Horse show quite fun, saw crowds of people, H was judging a lot, had tea with him at end. Back down and arrived late at Grand for dinner. Parti carre Mrs H and Victor B, H and I. H and I left at 10 for Lady Adamson's dance, leaving the other two! We just said good evening and then went out into garden and sat there all night! Had supper at the very

end and left at 1.30. Don’t ever remember enjoying a dance more! 10th Simla Very sick am. but recovered sufficiently to lunch with Mrs Wilson (nee McLeod of Edinburgh). Amusing woman talked incessantly. To finals of Polo, sat on wrong side with Mrs Hankey and sister. Hoped H might be there, but no luck. Enormous tea fight after given by Chiefs Staff saw very few I knew. Only saw H for a second, and of course much disappointed! But got very nice letter from him at night on my return from dinner party with Barnards. Quite the usual dull and worthy affair. Very tired at night. 11th Simla Spent a quiet day feeling very chippy. Dozed pm. And went out in the garden. Very nearly late for dinner at Viceregal Lodge. Enormous party Colonel Pinhey (Colonel Dunlop Smith's successor) took me in and Major Baird 92nd sat on other side. Had nice talk with latter about Harry. After dinner talked with Mrs Buck till men came in, when had Victor Brooke, who was very nice. We discussed Mrs Hankey and agreed she ought to be careful what she says about other women. Enjoyed myself very much and as always felt better after dinner. 12th Simla Garden party at Craig Dhu pm not so grim as most similar entertainments. Dinner and dance at Squires Hall which was the greatest fun and so well done. Thui Ess? there had lovely long talk to her after dinner and she was so nice. Sat next to Hambro at diner so was well pleased. Danced a certain amount but don't find it agrees with me much. Had to go into supper with Major Baird as H. was occupied. Felt I was boring him a little so did not see much of him. 13th Simla 80 A very strenuous day and almost dead at night. Black Heart luncheon at Annandale at 1.30 360 guests. Everything very well done. I was at H's table and beside him For the rest all is well! Very good repast. H was a steward so did not see much of him till racing was over when he gave me tea and saw him off. Think him quite delightful hope he does not think me too much of a limpet! Had tea with Her Excellency, he was very busy with Mrs Spence, but is always nice when he talks. Altogether a very enjoyable day.

14th Simla Feeling very slack and tired am did not get up till lunchtime. General Scott tete a tete as Lilian had gone out to Mashotra. A. should have arrived at 3.30 did not come till 6.30. Looking very fit and well. Grahames and Major Hambro dined arranged to talk to him after dinner and enjoyed myself. Feeling quite ill before dinner but much better after. Nice mail am. nice one from Jim and Elizabeth and charming letter from Annie T. very disappointed we are not going home. 15th Simla distinctly better. General Scott's birthday we gave him a large Thermos which he much liked. A. and I went out shopping am. PM to Polo sat with Mrs Hankey, Mrs Maddox and c and afterwards all the glittering Staff came and spoke and H. He lent A. a pony to ride uphill on. Arrived home late, usual dinner party, everyone left very early to go to a dance at Town hall including Lilian. We were'nt asked, quite glad as I as very tired. A. seems wonderfully fit and none the worse for the hot weather at Dinapore. 16th Simla Very hot and beastly day, think this climate quite the most relaxing and detestable I have ever been in. slacked am. PM to Races which were neither good nor amusing. Afternoon rather a frost. Up to Maxwell's house 'Pentland' where we changed and dined. Colonel and Mrs Peyton and Major Hambro the other guests. Pretty little house in a most precipitous position. Like the Maxwell's very much, they have a delightful small boy of a few months old. 17th Simla A. left house very early to play Colonel Thompson at Naldera (and beat him.) Very hot and hazy day. I left at 5, met Major Hambro in Lakkar Bazaar and went out to Bendochy. Met Mrs Mc Kinnon en route, who knew where we were going and probably thought it was a deux! Went a stroll in the Retreat woods en route, lovely and arrived in time for dinner. Dined out of doors. Think Major H one of the kindest and most delightful men I know and is certainly a champion bandobast maker! 18th Mashoda Set forth after breakfast, I in rickshaw, other 2 on H's ponies to Naldera. Took an hour getting there. A and H played 18 hole both a and pm. H quite off his game and

A won easily. Excellent lunch at side of temple. I strolled out and watched them. PM heavy thunderstorm came on so we took refuge in tent and made tea. Cleared up after and we had a lovely ride and rickshaw home. Said goodbye to H as he leaves early am before we do. I always feel a different being out at Mashotra to Simla. 19th Simla Came back about 11.30 everything beautifully fresh and green after rain. In the evening we and Lilian went to dance at Butler's, saw a little of H. good dance stayed till end. 20th Simla shopped am PM to Gymkhana which was'nt much fun. Major H gave us tea and lent A a pony to come up the hill again with. Dog tired, to bed early not feeling very fit. 21st Simla Spent am sorting my garments for Kashmir. A. left early for Naldera to play in a golf competition but which he did no good in. Got charming letter from Major H wishing bon voyage. Also packed pm and Mrs Hankey to tea to bid adieu. She stayed till 7. Two musty old Generals to dinner Brunker and Dawkins by name. Feeling delicate all day as per usual shall be thankful to get out of this place as I know it does'nt suit me. Can never be grateful enough to General Scott for all his kindness. To bed early. Had a very nice letter from Jim, who seems to be having an A.1 time at home. I hope he won't allow Lady L to worry him or allow herself to fall in love with him again. Also heard from Elizabeth who seems very well hope her meeting with L.G will have no disastrous results. 22nd Left Simla by the 11 train, very sorry to say good bye to General Scott. Very unpleasant journey, to Kalka, train beastly and felt very sick. Hot at Kalka and in train to Umballa about 100 degrees. Had dinner there very nearly in a state of collapse so kind A. gave me champagne and I felt better. Cool and comfortable night much to our surprise as we both expected to be grilled alive. 23rd Arrived Lahore about 6 where we spent the day to avoid hot day in train. Straight to Braganza's Hotel (filthy pot-house) had chota hazri and to bed. A got up for lunch but I remained there till 5. Very hot day but quite

bearable under a punkah. Went out driving then in a magnificent barouche round cantonments which look delightful, past Government House where Lady Dane must feel like being at Buckingham Palace and tried to find Shalimar Gardens. Had to turn back before we got there as too far. Dined at Station, an indifferent meal and left for Rawalpindi about 10pm. Rather hotter night than last but quite bearable. 24th 90 Arrived 'Pindi about 8 breakfasted at station, found Victoria and tonga waiting (packed al our things onto latter) and started forth along hot and dusty road to Murree. Lunched at Tret Dak Bungalow 25 and a half miles from start. Grand views of plains and hills which improved with the ascent. Arrived Sunnybank on outskirts of Murree at about 6 and stopped for night. After tea hired pony and dandy and went up to have a look at Murree. A very pretty place but to my mind impressed me as being quite as detestable as every other hill station. Met some desperate looking G's and female ladies. Dined in our rooms and thereby avoided a couple of unpleasant looking stable companions. 37 miles. 25th Left Sunnybank about 6.30 and passed through some lovely woods on the descent to Kohala a distance of 27 and a half miles. First part of drive beautifully shaded, latter somewhat hot. Kohala stands on banks of the Jhelum on Indian side. Breakfasted here and then crossed bridge into Kashmir territory. Very fine scenery, river splendid, scenery seems to improve and grow grander every mile. Went on to Dulai 12 miles where we lunched and then rested pm. A charming little dak bungalow right over the Jhelum. Down to it later and made Snubbie swim, which he enjoyed. On in the cool of the evening to Domel 9 miles arrived 8PM. I went straight to bed, where I dined, dog tired. 37 + 48 and a half miles = 85 and a half. 26th Started from Domel which is a charming little bungalow about 6. I was feeling frightfully tired and sick. Not quite such an interesting bit of road but nevertheless very beautiful. I have never in my life seen anything to touch the scenery we have passed through. Arrived Ghari about 9 and decided to

remain for the day, as I was so tired and was thankful for respite as was feeling dead. To bed till evening then out and down to river. A. and Lobo tried to fish but with no result. Interested watching people crossing river which here as elsewhere is a mighty torrent by Jhula bridge which are nothing but steel ropes and they are pulled across in buckets. Mr Ritson of 5th Fusiliers turned up. 85 and a half miles + 13 = 98 Saturday 27th Left Ghari about 5 and had a gloriously cool drive as far as Chakoti (21 and half miles) and even on to Uri, it was never too hot. Scenery magnificent in some parts almost too much so as the road was very dangerous. Saw place where Englishman was killed by falling rock in April. Felt very nervous in parts, suppose it is feeling such a crock. Arrived Uri about 10 charming little dak bungalow. Someone had wired about us all along the route, so we found every khansama most attentive. Eat A1 breakfast, then to bed about 11 and slept till 4.30. Felt much refreshed. Went a stroll with A. after dinner too high above the river to get down to it. 98 and 34 = 133 miles. Sunday 28th Beautifully cool morning. Left Uri about 7. Consider today's scenery finest of all. Some dangerous cuttings also magnificent river and forest scenery before Rampur where we lunched. Dirty looking bungalow. About 4 miles below Barramullah the scenery entirely changed from wild to tame plus a background of magnificent snow capped mountains, one enters the Vale proper. The most lovely views possible. Went to Dak Bungalow at Barrramullah, were met by Mr Kannardi's boatman, Ikballah, who conducted us to "Pamela" lying a short distance upstream. A dream and seemed almost like fairyland. Ikballah had made every arrangement, and we found everything ready for us including a 1st class repast. Weather not a bit too hot. After lunch were towed for about 4 hours upstream, anchored at 6pm 4 and a half miles up. Arthur went out shooting doves. 133 +29 = 162 miles. 29th Started about 5AM being towed up river and arrived Sopor about 1PM. Fairly warm, lovely scenery all the way. Saw Nanga Parbat (26,300 foot) 2nd highest mountain in the

world. A went out fishing and caught a chiroo about 2lbs. I also went out in a boat but did not fish. Feeling ever so much better, am much pleased with myself. Very hot pm, storm came on in evening, dust and wind which greatly cooled atmosphere. 30th Sopor Kashmir. Very cool morning thermometer never above 70 degrees all day. Rather wet A went out fishing am and caught 2 other chiroos. I wrote a lot of Mail letters, feeling fit and almost energetic. PM a lot more rain, wrote letters and read. Evening went out fishing with A, cleared up and lovely. Heard that Jack has gone home so no chance of seeing him up here. Wire from Lady G.H asking for news of us and saying she's detained in Srinagar. Have wired back whether we should postpone going to Gulmarg tomorrow as we had settled to do. July 1st Kashmir Left Sopor about 10AM having had wire from Lady G.H asking us to postpone arrival till Monday. Which arrangement really suits us best. Glorious day, sun shinning, brightly and not a bit too hot. Sat on roof all am. drinking in the view. PM felt very seedy, bad head and feverish. Passed through narrow and very swift canal, great difficulty in getting boat through. A. and I got out and walked for a bit along a delightful meadow full of buttercups, clover and c. 2nd Kashmir Woke up to find ourselves stationary under a beautiful grove of chenar trees, just below Sumbal. Glorious views of snows all day. A tried for mahseer am. I went into the shady grove and read and wrote. At 2 started in doonga, a delightful expedition to the Manasbal Lake. I think the most beautiful place I've ever seen. Glorious afternoon, light lovely and with magnificent sights of snows. Landed at end of lake and went into lovely fruit garden belonging to Lat Fakir and bought fruit. Had picnic under magnificent chenar. Fished with mulberries on our return and one of the boatmen speared fish. 3rd Kashmir 100 Started at 5 for Shadipur arrived about 9.30. Another charming spot under chenars. Lay under them all day, quite cool with a refreshing breeze. A fished both am and pm for mahseer but had no luck. After

tea I went to join him up Sind River, very fast stream. Made Snubbie run along bank. I fished with mulberries, but no luck. Then A. knocked golf balls about in a lovely meadow. Rather hotter at night, sat out of doors after dinner. No sign of our English Mail yet, we send daily, in vain, for it to Srinagar. Saturday 4th Kashmir Left Shadipore about 5 and continued up river. Got to outskirts of Srinagar at 1. Most interesting entry through the city. Very difficult to get our big boat through the bridges, current so strong. Heard from Lady JH that she is laid up at S. with quinsy. On arrival got in small boat and went to Residency to enquire. Saw Miss Maguiac and sat in garden, quite glorious. Lady J.H's move to Gulmarg uncertain, ditto our plans I take it. Got our English Mail, very nice letters. Very hot evening, this place is lovely but rather stuffy. Sunday 5th Kashmir A hot day, it is undoubtedly warmer here in Srinagar than lower down. Stayed in all am and wrote letters. Had meant to go down to city to see merchant's shops but felt too slack. Heard Lady JH was better and that Sir F had come. After tea went with him and Miss Maguiac in their boat to Dal Lake and on to Nishat Bagh an old palace and Garden of Moghul Emperors. Both Lake and garden quite lovely. Did not get back till 9pm, we were late in starting, we were to meet at 4.45 but they were nearly an hour late. Sir F told us that George Sath? has been knighted. 6th Kashmir Very hot day, wrote letters am. PM went out shopping and before that A had a round of golf by himself. Went up to see how Lady Joungh was, heard she was better but saw no-one. On our return tremendous dust storm came on, most terrifying, but it took down the temperature splendidly. Very tired, to bed early. Have started drinking "Coca Wine". I feel badly in need of a picking up tonic as I still feel so very limp and slack. 7th Kashmir Sat out on bank and finished Mail letters am. A went to Residency and saw Sir F who seems the least vague and mazy in that household. Started at 12, a picnic to Dal Lake, delightful day, not too hot. Lovely there. Back again by 5.30 got out at Golf Course and A

played with a local grabbis. Beat him. Walked with them about 4 holes and then home. Feeling very tired, rested before dinner. Arrival of local Babu with all paraphanalia for our Liddas Valley expedition. Dust storm yesterday had made it much cooler. Heard Mr Ritzen 15th I had arrived 29th and was recalled 2nd! 8th Kashmir Left Srinagar about 6 on our way to Lidas Valley. Lot of rain in night consequently much cooler. Thermometer in dining room only 70 degrees AM. Very pleasant and pretty day. Left man behind at Srinagar to bring letters and brought English Mail, great joy. Felt pretty ill all day, my inside does not seem to be right and I can not cure it. Rather warmer pm. Tied up for night at Pompom odious place, disturbed by barking pi-dogs and chanting natives. Wretched night. Thermometer 84 degrees most of day. 9th Kashmir Hot day. Left Pompom about 5. Nothing much to write about. A. shot dove all pm and made some good shots. Lovely breeze got up at night, sat out before and after dinner and quite cool. No further disturbances by man or beast. Spent most of the day writing Mail letters. 10th Kashmir felt much fitter. Hot day in sun. Scenery not so fine as down below. Got English mail from Dinapore. Arrived By Behara about 7 above a very pretty bridge. Tied up beside a delightful old pleasure garden with ruins of a temple. Some of the finest chenar trees I have seen yet. Strolled about garden until dinner time and ate apricots off trees, good. Quite cool with heavenly breeze. Dined out of doors in bows by moonlight, heavenly, no lamp and c required. Saturday 11th Kashmir Left By Behara about 8.30 AM. with a formidable array of transport ponies and attendants of all sorts en route for Liddar Valley. A. on a curiously small pony me in a dandy. Screamed loudly at the start as made certain I was going to be upset. Went 10 miles and then halted at charming camping ground called Kotsoo on banks of Liddar and near where A. is to shoot bear tomorrow. Very pretty road, for the most part shady. Lots of water like burns at home and little springs coming down from hillside. View not great,

rather cloudy. Chiefly chenars and willows and passed many orchards with apricots raining down. A. went out in evening to look for bear, came on one's hole but saw nothing. Sunday 12th Kashmir Kotsoo Camp Liddar Valley Beautifully cool night slept like a log. Thermometer only 68 degrees at 8am. A. left then for his bear shoot. I spent most of day under the chenar tree writing and sleeping. A. turned up 4 PM having had a tiring and unsuccessful day, saw no bears. Said views from top lovely. Went for a stroll after tea. Very tired after dinner and to bed. All the same feeling ever so much better than and a different being to Simla. 13th Kashmir Dushat Camp Liddar 110 Chota Hazri at 7 and started forth for a 7 mile march. Stopped short of Camp 1 and a half miles, where breakfast had been prepared for us under walnut grove. Rather hot marching. After breakfast went on to Camp, another lovely spot. Scenery becoming finer, hills getting magnificent and very sheer. A. went out at 4 after bear, one was seen a long way off. Much cooler in evening and a little rain at night. Very jolly camp surrounded by wild indigo, very like heather. 14th Kashmir Woke up feeling very seedy, giddy fits and quite faint. Better after Chota Hazri A. and 50 coolies (which I photographed) started about 7.30 for shoot and I went on to Phalgam escorted by Ickballa. Was dropped by dandy coolies en route and was furious. Beautiful scenery all the way, crossed Lidder at Ganeshbal and up steep defile to Phalgam. Delightful camp in fir woods. A. arrived 4 PM not having shot bear, but having seen one for a flash 100 yards off. He took Sir F Younghusband's letter to Colonel Ward and there met Captain Allan late 71st aet 70 and one Phelps who had been at Harrow with him. A. brought Captain A. back and to dinner. Delightful old man and knows Kasmir thoroughly. 15th Kashmir Phalgam Very gay day, out to breakfast with Captain Allan, whose camp is above ours, very good meal. Showed us photos of Kashmir. Invite to lunch at Ward's at 2.15, went, nice old couple. Got delicious blackcurrant tart and being very fit, able to

enjoy it. At lunch a Mrs French, who with husband had wonderful escape, slipped down snow-slide into torrent. After tea went stroll with A. To dinner with Captain Allen, Mr and Mrs Phelps and Miss Brocklenby to meet us. Mrs P nee Pilkington a cousin of Moppy's. Looks seedy but very nice. Miss B sang (?) the Phelps gave us much useful information re our trip tomorrow. Lobo ill, leaving him behind tomorrow. 16th Kashmir Lovely am feeling very fit. Heard from Norman M-J he is to marry Nurse Campbell, excellent arrangement. Started 7.45 up East Lidder Valley. Walked about a mile at first, rest time in dandy. Very good coolies. Wonderful scenery all the way precipitous mountains with fir, beech and c on either side and rushing torrent, water absolutely white with foam. Phlgam 7,300 feet. Breakfast 11 at lovely spot half way to Tannin where halted for night (9,000 feet). Great difference in temperature. Lovely camping ground formed on promintory by juncture of two torrents. Enormous hills all around. Arrived about 2 slept on water's edge for about an hour when got rather chilly. Thermometer 57 degrees at night. 17th Kashmir Lovely am. started 7.30 stiff climb of 1,000 feet, crossed river by perpetual snow bridge, 100 yards long. Breakfasted in old birch wood. Climbed up to Samaser Lake 912,500 feet). Beautiful scenery and wonderful wild flowers:- buttercups, iris, blue poppy, columbine, wild calsolaria, thyme and many others. Glacier at head of lake, walked across snow to get to lake. Mist came on, very cold, walked back down steep hill and felt rather weak on my pins! A. and I carried across river in dandy, rather alarming. Got to camp about 2.30pm. on grass plateau above river with many wild geraniums. Heard a snow leopard had killed 2 horses 2 days ago, so got goat tied up and a waited for it, but no luck. Very cold at night thermometer 47 degrees and we were glad to get to bed. Name of camp Zojpal (11,300 feet). Saturday 18th Kashmir Left camp 7.30am. another beautiful day, climbed up 5 or 600 feet then to Shishram Naj Lake very fine views from far (East) end. Lake about 1 and a half

miles in circumference, very deep and still. Surrounded by very high glaciers and snow peaks up to 17,000 feet. Masses of wild flowers same as yesterday and others. Back to Zojpal for breakfast. Having sent tents and c back to Tannin. Left Zojpal at 1.30 pm, lovely path along hillside with river far below, slept for a bit at top of steep hill over Tannin, got to Tannin at 4.30pm and enjoyed our tea. Some rain afterwards. Sunday 19th Kashmir Left Tannin about 8 and had fairly hot march to Phalgam. Beautiful scenery all the way and were lucky in having A 1 views. Got in to camp just before heavy rain-storm came on. Lunched with Captain Allen and got our English Mail. Only letters from Gr? and Jim. Latter says taken his passage for October 22nd. No word of A's leave. Hope he gets till September. Rested pm., raining pretty well all the time. Dined also with Captain Allen, who has been more than kind and hospitable to us. Colonel and Mrs Fairbrother and Mrs French also to dinner. Quite chilly in evening. 20th Kashmir Cool morning after the rain. Breakfasted 7.30 and left Phalgam on downward track. Captain Allen came about 2 miles of the way with us. Nice road and quite cool. Halted several times. Got to Eishmakam 14 miles 1.30 where halted for night. Lunched in garden belonging to the Maharaja and then adjourned to tents which had arrived in meantime. Slight thunderstorm which further cooled the air. Very pretty road all the way down, lovely flowers also fruit. Not very pleasing camp, too many natives, dogs and "lumbadars" about. Quite cool and pleasant. 21st Kashmir Left Eishmakam about 8 and went to Kambal where houseboat was waiting for us. Rather hot trek. Passed Bawan where are some beautiful chenar trees. Stopped for a bit beside a stream and had a drink Lunched on board and started about. Very hot to begin with but had thunderstorm at Bij Behara which cooled the air. Had to go and lie down as I felt very seedy. Tired, I expect. Got papers at Islamabad but no letters. 22nd Kashmir Cool and uneventful day on House Boat. Rain and thunderstorm pm which delayed us as owing to the wind we could not

go under Pompom bridge till it went down. Got English Mail pm. No news in particular. Expected to get into Srinagar after dinner, but had to tie up again on account of the wind. Heard Mrs C.Baker has a son, did'nt give them credit for that much cleverness! In a very bad temper at night, intensely disagreeable. 23rd 120 Kashmir Got into Srinagar about 6, servants departed for Gulmarg in ekkan with luggage about 7 then spent morning interviewing and paying tradesmen. Much surprised our camping expedition was so moderate. Left at 11 in magnificent barrouche for Gulmarg, uninteresting drive through country as flat as Holland and road lined with poplars. At Tung Marg, foot of hill, two ponies met us sent by Y(ounghusband?)s and rode up steep incline for about 4 miles. View from top glorious. Residency delightful wooden Bungalow, we slept in 1st Assistant's house about two yds? off. Lady Y still looks much pulled down, but is delightful and amusing. Miss Maguire and Mrs Bruce also here. 24th Kashmir Gulmarg A lovely morning, glorious views. Meals at very odd hours, chota hazri anytime in room, luncheon 11.30! tea 4.15 and c. A. has been given a dispensation and has a 1.30 meal with the little girl. A. went down to play golf, which he did badly. I went down pm and walked around a bit. Such a lovely meadow, bits of it remind me somehow of Muirfield. Back to tea at which I eat enormously. Lady Y never comes to dinner. We (Sir F, Miss M., A and I) played Bridge after, play of the quietest. 25th Kashmir Gulmarg Spent most of the day gossiping with Lady Y, she is most amusing and very clever I imagine. Conversation invariably seems to turn on Stanhopes and on Harry in particular. A golfed twice and played better. After tea Sir F took me a walk round Circular Road, practically flat, about 3 miles, did not feel so tired as I expected. Had a radiant letter from Hetta, full of her Harry Beaumont, she seems very happy. I'm so glad she has found a D. at last. 26th Kashmir Gulmarg A real wet day, hardly stopped at all. Had lunch 12.30 Colonel and Mrs Eastwood came. They have been here for a couple of months and leave tomorrow. His

time is about up and they go home via round the world. PM played with the small Eileen and after tea A. went down to Club to play Bridge and lost, finances in a most dicky condition and if A. does'nt get another month's leave, don't know where we shall be. Wrote Mail letters after tea. 27th Kashmir Gulmarg A most lovely day after the rain. A. golfed twice pm. A foursome which I followed for a bit. Wrote lots of letters for Mail. Lady Y had a tea party of frumps in which I did not take much part. Before dinner had a long talk to maid, who imparted much family news and gossip. Played Bridge after dinner, Sir F seems rather keen but is a record bad player. Feeling very much stronger and fitter, this place seems to agree with me. Je de viens tres large! 28th Kashmir Gulmarg Lovely day. Did nothing particular. A. played his usual two matches and won both. He has not been very fortunate at Bridge so far. Sat out talking to Lady J most of pm. She is so amusing. A. heard from Geordie, chances of an extra month's leave seem practically NIL. D_N. 29th Kashmir Gulmarg Poured a.m. Major Skeffington Smythe a cousin of Lady J's arrived from Cairo. Seems very nice. After tea went a walk with Sir F and Major SS across Marg to Shorter the photographers and invested in some lovely views of here and Liddar. Temperature perfect about 68 degrees in shade. Feel this place bracing and that it suits me. Called a.m. on Mrs Hamilton, sister of Mrs Birdwood. Supposed to be a beauty: is'nt. 30th Kashmir Gulmarg Got our Mail a.m. letters from Elizabeth and Jim. Am a little fussed about the former for evidently LG is as attractive as ever. Which is bad. Showery all day. After tea went for a walk with Mrs Bruce and Miss Younghusband and to call on Miss Dunlop Smith (aine's ) at Nedon's Hotel who has been ill. Found her better. Met A. on return journey who had been golfing and bridging (and won at both) and rode his pony home. J'ai une idie que la dame devient un peuennuyer de nous! 31st Kashmir Gulmarg A glorious day. Lady Y somewhat on the warpath am. so stood clear.

A. golfed with a boy Sandeman early and got beat. Back in time for lunch. Talked to Lady Y after who I think one of the cleverest and most entertaining people I've ever met. Wrote letters pm. After dinner a Variety Entertainment at Nedon's Hotel which was quite good but far too long. 3 encores seemed de rigueur. Home about 12.30. Vowed never to go out at night again in a dandy. Horrible. Saw Nanga Parbat today beautifully. August 1st Kashmir Gulmarg Wrote some letters am. and pm. A. golfed. After tea down to Gymkhana, which tho' much better than any Simla ones, a pretty feeble entertainment. Came on to pour but got home dry. They played Bridge after dinner, I was very tired so did'nt. Felt rather seedy on the whole. Sunday 2nd Kashmir Gulmarg 130 Had faint and vague intention of going to church but a heavy downpour at the critical moment decided me for home. Wet day, cleared up after tea. A. and I walked to Club where he Bridged (with success) and I read papers. A wonderful collection of creatures, feel thankful I know now the walk to and from Club rather too much for me and I felt dead and nearly fainted after dinner. So to bed suddenly. Major Migram of the Kashmir Game Preserve arrived to stay. 3rd Kashmir Gulmarg A started off early to compete in "Hill Vase" in which he did very well in first round. I wrote Mail letters all a.m. and at 1 went out to lunch with Major and Mrs Rose, now in Gurkhas, but late of 71st. A large gathering of sisters and cousins and aunts. PM poured and golf off. A. stayed at Club to play Bridge. Came back for tea, at which but jaded appetite owing to lateness and length of meal. More Mail letters arrived, somewhat belated. Captain and Mrs Hamilton dined, she looked prettier than I have seen her yet. Should think she was a nice little thing. 4th Kashmir Gulmarg 132 (126) A real wet day, worse than Sunday, if possible. Je crois que j'ai accelere, mais ne suis pas certain. Got up just in time for breakfast, think these hours quite detestable, and it makes the day so very long. Did not go out all day as it never ceased pouring. Played with Eileen after tea and read.

After dinner others played Bridge. Major Wigram and I cut out. Am practically certain my surmise of this morning is correct. 5th Kashmir Gulmarg Again pouring in morning but cleared up about 3 when A. went down to golf course. His new puttoo selit arrived, looks really very nice. Frousted after luncheon over fire and read D.T.s. Went for a walk after tea Sir F and Lady, Mrs Bruce and self. Think I went rather too far and felt dog tired and rather faint after dinner. So straight to bed. Lady Y very displeased about something and spoke very crossly to Mrs Burke, poor thing. A. got wire to say extra month leave impossible but need not be back till evening of 17th. 6th Kashmir Good night and felt quite alright again. Lady Y asked me if I could stay on after A. had gone which I must think over, if it was for a month, might be worth my while and save expense at Simla. A. Played match versus Major Lachlan and won at 18th hole. Pity Golf still impossible. Major Wigram left to go to Edwardes' Had splendid gossip with Mrs Bruce pm, think she is very nice and feel so sorry for her. After tea went down to watch A play a foursome, house party as well. The rest of them went out to Fancy ball at Nedon's Hotel. A and I only remaining behind. To bed early. A. wants me to stay on. 7th Kashmir Gulmarg Lovely day. A played Howell in 3rd round of 'Hill Vase'. Gave 14 strokes and won by 4/3. Afternoon he gave Hesketh 14 and won by 2 up after being down 3. I went down to Club with Miss Maj? In afternoon to play bridge, but there were 4 without me! A Brunched with the Rose's. Had a nice long talk with Mrs Bruce and we discussed our hostess and her vagaries. A young Mr Field came to dinner and took me in, also Miss Younghusband. Saturday 8th Kashmir Gulmarg Lovely day. A went down at 9.30, played Skipwith. A gave 14 and beat him. PM semi finals, much too excited to go near, but watched from a respectful distance. A. won by 2. Huge crowd like St Andrews or North Berwick and everyone keenly interested. Saw and spoke to Mrs Varn who I have not seen since '95! Don't think she has changed a bit. Everyone greatly

congratulated A on his victory. Had nice visit from Mrs Rose a.m. who has asked me to stay with them when I leave this. Have accepted for 29th. Most kind of her, I shall look forward to decent meals. Sunday 9th Kashmir Gulmarg Had half thought of going to church, but had Europe morning instead. Breakfast 12.30 Lady Y did not appear. PM wrote letters and Maharajah of Mysore's brother came to tea. Dull youth I thought. A. went to Club and played Bridge and I played with Eileen. Miss Vallie and Major S.S went an expedition up some mountain and were absent all day. Saw very little of our hostess as she did not come to dinner. To bed early. Fine day on whole, tried to rain a little after lunch. 10th Kashmir Gulmarg A went down to play Finals about 9.30 and I went and sat near livery stables and watched game through my glasses. He was badly defeated, his opponent, Major Davis, played the game of his life. Felt very depressed. A. of course took his defeat magnificently. He and I had lunch together about 1.15 and p.m. he went down to play in a foursome, in which he was also beaten. Major S.S. left a.m. to Srinagar and then to Leh. Poor Vallie very lost I fear, without him. Played a feeble game of Bridge as per usual after dinner. It seems so absurd we don't play for money. 11th Kashmir Gulmarg "Artie's last day" feel very sad at the thought of parting from him tomorrow. After breakfast went to call on the Roses' and got storm stayed there till 3.40. Heaviest rain we have had yet. Helped them to eat their luncheon. Then to club and read papers for a bit and home to tea (A stayed on) and mended A's clothes after. Have neglected them sadly. A back at 7. Finished his packing. Mr Field Junior to dinner. Lady Y un peu bue, but it takes her in a much more calm way than any others in the same interesting (?) condition I have seen. But she talked much nonsense and all in 1st person singular. 12th Kashmir Gulmarg 140 A left about 8 it was beastly saying goodbye to him and I felt very depressed all day and had bad attack of blues. If it was'nt for the economical side of the question, think I would rather have left

with him and gone on to Simla. A choice of evils. About 10.30 Mrs Bruce came and looked me up and we went for a turn before breakfast, very nice of her to come. Gossiped to her after and then came and worked at bills and A's socks till tea time. After that went walk with Mrs B and her cousin Miss Coe till dinner time. Sat on the Marg and watched the golf. Played Bridge after dinner to bed about 11. Feeling so very lonely and frightfully bored. 13th Kashmir Gulmarg Slept like a log but felt very lost and depressed. To Residency for breakfast Lady Y in a Kamstary mood and required port after the meal to calm herself. Helped to receive "Goblins", I must have been lucky in the selection? as they seemed very nice. Got letter from A. which was a joy, thankful he seems to have missed yesterday's rain. After tea worked at A's socks and pottered about by myself. Most unpleasant dinner Lady Y not at all herself and we had a scene, which ended n tears and c. And all about nothing at all of course. How she reminds me of Twill when she is like that. Wire from A to say he had arrived Sunybank. 14th Kashmir Gulmarg A postcard from A from Ghari, I wish he were here, it's quite too beastly being alone. However I feel it’s the best arrangement both for health and economy. Breakfast was rather an awkward meal! However Lady Y was most affable and it went off very well. Came back to house immediately after and worked at A's socks. There is a desperate amount of work in them and am making rather chefs d'oeuvres of them. Large tea party Miss Smith and niece, Mrs Campbell and Mrs Rose, Sir David Mason and Mr Mitchell. After went down to watch tennis tournament with Mrs Bruce, saw an A1 match between Major Charles Davis (A's conqueror) and Captain Gordon (Jack's adjutant). Former won, to everyone's very strident disappointment! A successful dinner and bridge after. Very tired but well. Saturday 15th Kashmir Gulmarg A lovely morning, no news from A, but hardly expected to hear. After breakfast walked with Mrs Bruce to Baramulla gap to see Misses Smith off, Lady Y and Vallie 2ooe? Missed them, they had passed. Then walked with Mrs Bruce to

call on Edwardes' she is a charming woman, sister of Mrs Fred Fraser and knows all the Hays, spoke so nicely of Aunt Ida. Wish A had met her. Then back to sew, nearly finished A's socks, hope to send them off tomorrow. After tea went down to watch tennis saw a very good game between Major Davis and Captain Doig, former won. Dinner party of 10, sat between Major Drake Brockman and Colonel Stewart of the 5th Ghurkas. Latter has just been made A.D.C. to King in Mohmand honors just out. Colonel Birdwood has the D.S.O. Sunday 16th Kashmir Gulmarg Glorious morning Arthur said at 9.30. No church for me, sat out on 'piazza', feel it is very salutary! Have felt T.R. very little last few days, trust its o.k. Letter from A at breakfast time, also English papers, which he forwarded from Pindi and letter from J, latter very bracing and I feel mou? brad having to answer. After breakfast sat out with Ys and Mrs B in garden and then returned to my mansion to write. After tea others went to church and walk, slacked it and continued to read. Lady Y did'nt turn up to dinner for which mercy we were all truly grateful. Nice evening with Sir F. Am so bored but realise Simla would be worse. 17th Kashmir Gulmarg A brutal a.m. rain coming down in torrents, am thankful this was not the day selected for A to go down. Wrote Mail letters till breakfast. Que je deteste, these fiendish hours. P.M. and A's and had long letter from him from Lahore. Had good journey as wire also came from Dinapore. Cleared up after tea and I went to bazar to order A some more puttoo! And then on to Club to enter Snub's name for dog show. Lady Y in very cautious mood at dinner time, however I'm sure it's better to pay no heed to her. It's too ridiculous the way she reminds me of Ma in her odd way! 18th Kashmir Gulmarg Rained more or less till tea time, it was decided definitely to put party off for tonight. Gott sei Danke. Lady Y somewhat on warpath all day, so avoided her. Sir F, Mrs Bruce and I went walk after tea to which Mr Field came by left circular Road. I came home via Marg and Club, glad to rest at latter as was feeling done. Home by bazar. Mr Field to dinner, too amusing the way Lady

ogled him and cast amorous glances, which do not suit one of her physiogony (can't spell the word). Dog tired, so to bed before Bridge. Don't find I can do much in this place yet. 19th Kashmir Gulmarg distinct improvement in weather. Rather wet and dreary a.m. but cleared up after and was lovely. Took Mrs Bruce down to tea at Club, quite good meal, and watched Tennis tournament after, Captain Hugh and Mrs Davis beat Captain Gordon and Mrs Stanniel. Mrs Edwardes came and joined us. Went for a walk after. Eileen went to fancy dance at Hotel. English papers and a letter from Jim, he is wonderfully constant about writing. Vallie dined out so no bridge after dinner. To bed as early as possible. T.R. very lively at night. 20th Kashmir Gulmarg Fine morning. After breakfast Mrs Bruce came and sat and cracked with me, while I darned my pink tea gown, which is literally in rags. Others went p.m. to Horse show. Felt disinclined to change into respectable garments for the occasion so Mrs Bruce, Miss Coe and I went and looked on at a distance. Then on to Mixed Tennis Finals, Captain and Mrs Davis defeated Major Lachlan and Miss Condon. Latter is about best lady player I have ever seen. Captain Macpherson arrived! Seems quite tame and good about my being in his house. He dined, thought him nice. A dreary and very slow game of Bridge, not to bed till nearly 12, very tired. 21st Kashmir Gulmarg A scene at and after breakfast, Lady Y in a glorious tantrum, had been having nips of brandy all morning, which accounts. Was given hint by Mrs B to make myself scarce, which I did. Delightful letter from A and several forwarded. Garden party p.m. for which I attired myself in Elizabeth's hat and green dress, which went off very well. Lady Y more or less screwed which became more evident towards the end. Am on the horns of dilemma as to my plans! And don’t quite know where I am! Captain M very nice, the situation in his house is rather comic. I feel rather like the Duchess of S in "Queer", "my reputation - my reputation". Saturday 22nd Kashmir Gulmarg 150 Glorious morning and peaceful breakfast. Came on to

rain after and drenched the place. Mrs B and I to tea with Mrs Varn at Hotel and then on to Horse show. I had sent Snubbie down earlier but he got no prize. It appears Lady Y had hysterics before dinner, because Eileen did not get a prize. So she did not appear for that meal, Mr Field did and had duck for the fourth time in succession, only on this occasion it was high and none of us could eat it. Nice letter from A. says good chance of his getting back to Dum in October. Very tired at night, think I have been overdoing it a bit. Sunday 23rd Kashmir Gulmarg Lovely day, was to have gone picnic with Mrs Varn with Mrs Bruce but backed out of it, as I felt I required a real slack day. Which I had, sitting out on terrace most of time darning pink tea gown. It will take days of toil before it is finished. Tete a tete breakfast with Vallie as Sir F and Lady lunched out. Have the feeling I am much out of favour, but have no intention of quarrelling with my bread and butter. For financial reasons I must sponge on my friends as long as possible, for it is necessary to faire des economies on account of T.R. Feeling much rested and fitter in evening. Mr Field dined (for 6th time!) and Mr Tony Grant. 24th Kashmir Gulmarg Pouring with rain almost all day, worked hard at darning my tea gown, which is progressing splendidly. Miss Fugue? and Mrs Grey to tea after which I went down to Club, read paper and talked to Mrs Varen. Very tired on return journey and at dinner felt again rather faint. But recovered shortly and played bridge after. Very disappointed no letter from A, must have missed the post, sure to get 2 tomorrow. "Vallie" is supposed to start tomorrow, don’t for a moment suppose she will get off. 25th Kashmir Gulmarg Poured in torrents till nearly 4PM. Hear handicap golf match has been cancelled and Championship begins tomorrow. As I thought two letters from A today, great joy. "Vallie" postponed her departure on account of rain and starts tomorrow a.m. when I am to move into her room as the Dews - he is the new Political Agent at Gilgit - come where I am. Trust V's room will be thoroughly cleaned and aired! Took no exercise to speak of as felt my left

ovary a bit all day, also somewhat slack and limp. Most depressing day. 26th Kashmir Gulmarg Have been spared going into Vallie's room after all and moved into Randalls' one, alias? one next to office. Very nice and private, only drawback no fireplace. Went walk after tea, to which L. Grey, Miss Coe and Mr and Miss Waldegrave came, with Mrs Bruce and Miss Coe and fell in with Mrs Edwardes. Talked fully of our hostess. Dinner quite a pleasant meal, one never knows till last second how it will be. Major Dew dined, struck me as rather a fat bounder. Mrs D just recovering from enteric, too tired to come. 27th Kashmir Gulmarg Misty a.m. sat on verandah and continued my darning which is near completion and is marvellous! A pleasant day, letter from A. and sent him on papers. No exercise, went to dinner with Sir F to Sir David Mason at Hotel, 100 guests and good champagne. Talked to Mrs Grey after and exchanged coup' deuces on our state. She is a nice but vulgar female. Not home till 1.30. Did'nt dance at all as thought wiser not to. 28th Kashmir Gulmarg Raw morning, thermometer in my room only about 60 degrees. Very sleepy a.m. after last night's antic but feel none the worse. Very affable lunch, my last day at Residency, have been here over 5 weeks! What a visitation! Later Much enraged to discover Lady Y has been going about saying I won't take hints and she could'nt get rid of me and to my face she pretends she is offended at me leaving so soon! Went down to see golf Championship. Lady Y in a vile temper. Dinner party at night, worst run? shows I've ever seen. Very depressed at night. Saturday 29th Kashmir Gulmarg Spent a.m. packing and c and was honoured by a visit in my house from LadyY. Think she is without doubt the most detestable woman I've ever met and she has been so beastly behind my back. I have no hesitation in saying so. To my face she makes out she is very sad at my departure!! Left about 5 thankful to get out of the house. Picked up Mrs Edwardes and Mrs Bruce and walked with them to Roses. They are a delightful household. After dinner went to a Burlesque at Hotel, a supper party of Major

Roses after, enjoyed both very much. To bed at 3 A.M ! Sunday 30th Kashmir Gulmarg Were to have gone a picnic with Mrs Edwardes but was put off as it poured in torrents. Went out to lunch with them, dandy men could hardly progress at all. A.1 meal, quel contrast to Residency. Swam home on foot in a filthy state. None of us changed for dinner. It is quite delightful being here and the change after Residency is marked to put it mildly! Post never came, road must be nearly impassable. 31st Kashmir Gulmarg The wettest day we've had yet. Did'nt stir from house till 5 when went to see Finish of Championship. Mr Colbeck beat Captain Buist by 3. Said to be a fine match. He also did 77 a.m. in Handicap Tournament, which was marvellous considering state of greens, most of them under water. Dinner party of 13 and most of them went on to Bachelor's dance. I stayed at home with Mrs Campbell. Roses eventually did'nt go either. Very nice letter from A, weather at Dinapore seems quite bearable. September 1st Kashmir Gulmarg 160 Torrential again all day, did'nt stir from house. Had meant to go to tea with Mrs Waldegrave but quite impossible. Wrote and offered for Mrs Fox - Strangeway's dandy to give Mrs Rose, think it would be a nice present for her. Heard Lady Y and Mrs Bruce had been at Club, had I known, would have gone. Am enjoying myself very much here, the contrast from Residency is wonderful. Heard from A. 2nd Kashmir Gulmarg Poured without ceasing all day. No Mail in and no letter from A. Did'nt stir from house, but busily darned tea gown, which is now nearing completion. Had meant to go down to Club to read papers, but quite impossible. We don’t change our raiment for dinner when wet, very nice and sound arrangement. 3rd Kashmir Gulmarg Much better day yesterday's Mail came a.m. A's letter and some English ones. Swam down to Club after tea when it was comparatively fine and read newspapers. With Major and Mrs Rose who took a little walk. The two sisters dined and danced at Hotel. To bed early, T.R. very lively.

4th Gulmarg Kashmir A pouring wet day, hopeless to try and get out. Nice letter from A. and Mrs Hugh. A writes Noel is to be laid up for 8 weeks, have written to suggest him buying a new pony. With luck he should sell it before going home. Colonel and Mrs Edwardes to tea. Had meant to go and see Lady Y but got a note putting me off. At which I greatly rejoiced. Am thoroughly enjoying myself her and shall be very sorry to leave. Saturday 5th Gulmarg Kashmir Poured practically all day without a break and never got out. No post in of all depressing things. A Captain Bridges in 5th Gurkhas to lunch, showed him cutting of Arthur Murray which amused him much. He took it to send to his regiment. A's pay list came, very satisfactory. Hope the rain stops soon. Sunday 6th Gulmarg Kashmir Fairly fine morning but of course poured in torrents later on. Finished my tea gown, had it ironed and wore it for dinner. A tearing success. After tea Mrs Rose and I went for a walk, roads in an appalling state. To bed fairly early, no post in as per usual, which makes day so dull. 7th Gulmarg Kashmir The 1st fine day for weeks and even this was'nt without certain showers. Wrote Mail letters all a.m., find great difficulty in collecting news. Large luncheon party the Chief Justice of Punjab, Sir William Clarke with wife and daughter chief guests. Tead at Club and walked to bazar. Have given my foulard for waist to be made to 31 inches! Unpleasant experience at dinner as mine host somewhat squiffy and argumentative. To bed early. Think Mrs and Misses C noticed, am not certain about Mrs R. 8th Gulmarg Kashmir Pouring again all day, very disappointing. Another luncheon party Edward's chief guests. After lunch read "Fall of Clay" Heard from A. a.m. post as usual, day late. Arranged that I may stay here as long as it suits me so I propose leaving here on 24th which would get me to Simla on 1st. It's very kind of them to keep me so long and makes the entire difference to my finances! Hope to be clear of debt by November 1st. To bed early T.R. been very quiet of late, hardly felt him all day.

9th Gulmarg Kashmir Fine morning , no letter from A, fear it must have missed post as I got a receipted bill from Kilburn. It came later Hurrah. No rain all day, wonderful. Walked to Club and bazaar after tea. Snubbie not well, think he must have worms. Played Bridge after dinner 'Islay' sums rather good. Feel very fit and braced up. 10th Gulmarg Kashmir A heavenly day, best we've had, sunshine and bracing. Some people to lunch, which as usual was unending. Nice letter from a. also good English Mail and papers. Frank's "Venus" is in Atlantic Fleet, so hope to see something of him next year. A walk with Mrs R and Mrs C. p.m. and ended up at Club where we had tea. Feeling my left ovary a little but expect it's nothing. Otherwise very fit. Also got my last roll of films which are very good. M. Majeuse avait su de nouveau trop a boire s'etait un peu disagreable 11th Gulmarg Kashmir 170 Glorious day. Do hope this weather will last, so bracing and invigorating. Thermometer in my room generally 57 degrees and 47 before sun gets up. Dosed Snubs with castor oil and have also started squirting his nose which is hot and a discharge a.m. To Club think it nearly as gruesome a place as most institutions of its kind. Rained a bit in evening. 12th Gulmarg Kashmir Glorious a.m. but rain and thunderstorm after lunch. Had meant to go to tea at, but too wet. Down to Club where eat enormous tea. Take Bengers now at night, think it suits me. Heard from A, hope posts will be quicker now. Heated discussion at night over expense of women's clothes. Said goodbye to Mrs Varn who leaves tomorrow. Am very happy here, shall be very sorry when I go away. Sunday 13th Gulmarg Kashmir Another lovely day, no rain all day. Most of family to church at different times. Felt lazy. A walk round left Circular road (from here) after tea. On former occasions have collapsed after doing so, did'nt feel even tired. Much pleased with myself. Trouve premiere signes de lait, je trouve que ce soit bon. T.R. quiet today but think he is all right. Letters still running late, wish road would improve. 14th Gulmarg Kashmir Lovely day, Padre Cowley and his wife to lunch, nice couple. Walked to Bazar after tea with Mrs R.L"Bobie". Letter from A. both a.m.and p.m., posts are evidently becoming normal again. Do miss a

dreadfully I am hoping he may be able to get up to Simla for 10 days in October before going back to Dum, think it would do him good and certainly me! Played Bridge after dinner, lost Rupees 2/15th Gulmarg Kashmir Remained in bed till dinner time, thought a day's rest would do me good. Also Mrs Fox Strangeway's dandy came and I was able to give it by note. Great success, am very glad I got it, though it does postpone freedom from debt a little longer. A's letter came p.m. am thankful the roads are better and hope I shall get through when I go down. Very happy peaceful day, T.R. very lively indeed. Snubs was given areca nut powder followed in 4 hours by Castor Oil, if he has'nt got worms which I am now treating him for, think it must be piles and some internal inflammation. No vet here. 16th Gulmarg Kashmir Very restless night, felt anxious about Snubbie who was very poorly. However seemed much better. 'Islay' and to Club and played Bridge. Am holding putrid cards and can't win. But enjoyed playing nevertheless. 17th Gulmarg Kashmir 18th Kashmir Gulmarg Fine in early morning, but started raining lunch time and continued all p.m. A youth called Onslow lunched, seemed quite nice and very keen about golf. Did'nt stir from house all day. Snubbie practically himself again. A belated letter from General Scott, think almost certain to go back to Craig Dhu when I leave Sm Ordered landau from Charagh Din for 25th, can't get it fo less than Rs 90/Saturday19th Kashmir Gulmarg Feeling a bit chippy. Sunday 20th Kashmir Gulmarg Lovely morning early. Not feeling so fit pain in one of my upper ribs. Started 11.30 in dandy, others on ponies, to lunch at Babumaristy about 6 miles along Baramulla road. Had very nice picnic there tho' rain came on in middle. Others then carried on to Baramulla and Islay and I came back. I rode in state in my dandy which is most comfortable. Poured at teatime, but Islay and I went to play Bridge chez Mr Stewart, her house quite close, Mrs Hutchison to 4. 21st Gulmarg Kashmir 180 Lovely day, felt rather slack and seedy. Wrote Mail letters. P.M. dozed and Mrs Hutchison and Mrs Gaustin to

tea. Played bridge after. I lost Rs 5/-, do not seem capable of winning. To bed early. Am off smoking again. Also having very bad heartburn and pains on right top ribs for which I'm applying ?omocca. Two letters from A. 22nd Gulmarg Kashmir Much better but slacked most of day. The others turned up p.m. having enjoyed their outing. Lady had been there after all, also "Randall" who is to escort her up here tomorrow. Am thankful I need not see her. Have no wish to set eyes on her again. To Club with 'Islay ' after tea and played Bridge with her. Mrs Gaustin and Mrs Hutchison. Only lost 2/-. Did'nt change for dinner. To bed early. 23rd Gulmarg Kashmir Heavenly day. After breakfast walked to Club with Islay, read papers and retrieved A.'s letters with which I'd propped up Bridge table last night. Then wrote to A. and arranged my packing. To tea with Mrs Stewart and played Bridge with Islay, her and Mrs Hutchison. Tho' have a feeling the latter is a t-t like her very much. Last night, am very sad. They drank my health at dinner and after played Bridge. Cannot win! Lost 5/- at Mrs Stewart's and 6/10 at Rose's. And at this juncture a little extra would have been useful. Not in bed till 2! 24th Kashmir. Left Gulmarg a little after 12. 'Islay' came about 3 miles of the way with me. Very sorry to say goodbye to all the family who have been more than kind. Mrs Rose sent me down in her dandy, which is certainly the acme of comfort. They had filled luncheon basket so feasted from contents by roadside below Bapamarishy . A heavenly day, glorious views of snows, Nanga Parbat visible without a cloud. Got to Baramulla about 7, a little tired from movement of the dandy. No dinner Benger which Mrs Campbell had prepared for me. Nice letter from A. very reviving. 25th Kashmir Left Baramulla 8.30 having crammed all luggage into carriage with ayah on box. Very comfortable conveyance. Got to Rampur 11.30 and lunched from contents of tiffin basket outside D Bungalow. A1 meal. Began to rain shortly and continued to pour all evening. Arrived Uni about 2.30 after very comfortable journey. Wired to A. and went to P.O. for his letter. Have been looking forward

to getting it all day. Feeling very fit, a great contrast to our previous journey. Rather warm till rain began. 29 miles. Saturday 26th Left Uri 7.45, lovely morning and dust beautifully laid after rain of yesterday. Expected attacks of nerves but felt braver than any lions.1 Arrived Chakoti about 11 and lunched beside a stream just beyond bungalow. Stayed an hour and on to Garhi where arrived about 4. Very hot stage p.m. but quite cool at night. Letter and wire from a, very grateful and comforting. Benger and bed about 8.34 miles Sunday 27th Left Garhi 8.30 and had hot drive to Dulai where arrived 1 and halted there till 4. Found shady place for lunch, felt rather faint after, but it soon passed. Probably due to state of road which was awful, so bumpy. On to Kohala where arrived shortly before 7. Dined off Benger in my room as usual. Like this new regime very much and don't know how I am to return to late dinner when in civilisation again! 34 miles. 28th Left Kohala at 6 sharp and had long climb to Murree where arrived about 4.30. Chartered another pair of horses for 1/2 the hill and they jibbed badly all the way. Lovely day and enjoyed glorious views of Kashmir hills. Stopped 1/2 way and had a good rest and luncheon in an orchard. Found splendid budget from A. on arrival at Sunny Bank, which was very cheering. Wired to him and to Major Rose. Dined in room as per usual, surprised at not being more tired, but felt surprisingly fresh, but glad to get to bed early. 27 and half miles. 29th Left Sunnybank at 10, had ordered carriage for 8.30 but waited for post man, thinking I'd get English papers which A had sent. But no. Very hot during descent. Stopped about 1 at foot of hill in a nice garden excepting for millions of mosquitoes and lunched and rested till 4. Snubbie very hot for last hour before arrival. Pleasantly cool afterwards. Arrived Pindi about 7, first to Station where I got A.'s letter, papers and English Mail. Then to Rowberry's Hotel, most comfortable, best Hotel I've struck in India. Dined in my room, rather enjoyed dinner for a

change. Wrote to A. and early to bed. Not tired at all practically. Rather hot. 37 miles. 30th Rawal Pindi Slept badly, very hot for one thing and also much bothered by both flea and mosquito bites. Thunderstorm in night, so woke up to quite cool morning. Wrote to A and Mail letters, lunched 1.30 and to Station where we had a terrific dust storm, everyone would be hurled on platform. Took 2nd class ticket, but went 1st as 2nd was crammed. No one asked me for ticket, so might have gone without. Train very late, got to Lahore 11.30, where got letter from A. and changed into Kalka carriage, had a 2nd class to self. Glad to get to sleep. Felt quite comfortable with my air cushion. October 1st 190 Picked up letter from A. at Umballa and got to Kalka about 8. Sent off ayah and luggage by train, had a good wash and breakfast and at 10.30 started for Simla by phaeton tonga. Enjoyed drive greatly, ever so much nicer than by train. A1 luncheon at Solon Dak Bungalow. Miss Smith sent her rickshaw to meet me on Tonga Road, very steep climb to house. Arrived at 5.30. Found a Miss Paterson, an artist also staying. Charming house. Family dining out at Mrs Conchy's, so Miss P. and I dined tete a tete, quite pleasant. To bed early, somewhat weary, but none the worse for long journey, though glad to have arrived. Letter from A. to greet me. 2nd Observatory House Simla Stayed in bed for breakfast, got up to luncheon and felt quite rested. Glorious weather here now, and feels quite different to when I was here before. Letter from General Scott asking me to Craig Dhu when I leave this on 14th, which is satisfactory and economical. He has just lost his eldest son in Egypt, poor old man. Party went out to Black Heart ball, did'nt feel inclined, also have no fancy garment. Dr Sven Hedin lunched, a charming and interesting personality. Mrs Hanky came a.m. to say good bye, she leaves tomorrow. Saturday 3rd Observatory House. Simla Pottered about most of day, rather nice to be slack and do nothing. Mrs Crooke Lawson came to see me and I walked back with her. Mrs H. Hunt staying with her, has had a sore

throat. Saw her for a moment as mad and mazy as ever. Victor Brooke to dinner, looks ill, but hear he's better to what he was. Has asked me to dine at Squires Hall 16th and 17th too if he's up. He certainly is a very charming individual. Sunday 4th Observatory House. Simla Miss Smith and I to church a.m. Roley-Poley there but did not speak to them. They've asked me to lunch tomorrow, when the house party goes. Spoke to Birdwoods, Mrs Hawker re after church. P.M. to tea at Craig Dhu, long talk to Lilian, they seem much cut up about this brother. General Sclater looking fat and well from his time at home. He is to be General at Lucknow, which is great luck. Miss S's sister Mrs Butler and her husband to lunch, very nice couple. 5th Observatory House. Simla Had very bad night of diarreoh and sickness, did'nt sleep a wink after 1. Must have caught a chill sitting out with Lilian. Better after breakfast but stayed in bed all day and had to chuck lunch at Viceregal Lodge, which I was sorry about. Got an invite to dinner at Mrs Birdwood's and go to Snowdon dance, but also quite impossible. Quite well comparatively by night but had to pay constant visits to cabinet all day. Hope I shall be none the worse of this, don't think so. But must be careful. Miss Smith more than kind in looking after me. 6th Observatory House. Simla Sven Hedin, Mr Butler, Mr Todd and the Thakor Sahib of Moroi to lunch. Miss Lily Clarke daughter of Sir William and Lady Clarke we met at Gulmarg came to stay. Nice pretty little thing. I went for a stroll round Viceregal Lodge and took some photos. Sven Hedin dined en famille, he is certainly the most charming personality and I shall feel a personal loss when he leaves! A. hopes to come for certain on 16yh it seems an eternity away still. Felt almost quite well again tho' rather weak and shattered. 7th Observatory House. Simla. Went out in search of Major Roses commission, sent selection from Hamilton and Ganesh Lall and am to go and look at Schwaiqum things Saturday. Met Miss Prophit at Ganesh Lalls, looking very well. Full of gossip. Said that Fuzzy and Elsie Collins were quite 'off' now

and that Mr Gresson is her man of the moment. Feeling all right again, must have caught chill sitting out with Lilian on Sunday, must be very careful. Heard from A he sounds very fit, Dieu merci. 8th Simla Observatory House. Wrote lot of letters for Mail. Several men to lunch. Went to interview Major Heard! An ordeal I did'nt enjoy. Of course my suspicions are correct! He gives 24th as official date but 15th December as probable one. Recommended Esme's nurse, Mrs Woods that was, noe Mrs Reeves Brown. Went to see her on my way home, but she was out. He leaves December 1st which is annoying. To tea with Miss Paterson at Corstorphans to see her pictures which I much like. Quiet evening, no-one to dinner. 9th Simla Observatory House. A nice but vulgar couple Mr and Mrs Dan Currie to lunch, also a Mr Stevenson. P.M. Janet and I walked round Summer Hill, such a pretty walk. Where Roly and his amourachis I suppose have their meetings. Undoubtedly romantic spot. Colonel Dunlop Smith dined at Club to meet Mr Percival Landon. RRather he than me! A. arrives for certain to-day week, 16th, how slowly the time passes! Saturday 10th Observatory House. Simla Out shopping a.m. and sent off final selection to Major Rose. Hope and trust he will be able to chose something he likes, but saw nothing I'd feel inclined to give £50 for. He sounds very rich. Sven Hedin and Mr Percy Landon to lunch. The former actually leaves tomorrow. Think him one of the nicest men I've ever met. At 3.15 started for Bendochy where General Scallon had a party, 60 more or less boring individuals. Miss Smith was to have come, but had to visit her sister at Hospital. Quite cold coming back. Fell in with Generals Scott and Sclater on return. Latter in great form. Sunday 11th Observatory House. Simla 200 Another heavenly day, every day seems an improvement. Skimpy English Mail only Frank and Jim. Feel relieved I have'nt to answer the latter any more. To church arrived late. Long and boring sermon. The Archie Campbells to lunch he A is a wonderful improvement on Jock. Difficult to think he is a Kilbinny! Wrote to A p.m. and Mrs Grahame

to tea. Think India has made her older and more haggard looking. Yesterday she might well have been 50. But very nicely dressed. Mrs Erle Richards to dinner and a nice youth called Coldstream. Mrs E.R. is 'expecting' but not till May. How they can discuss this state so previously! 12th Simla Pottered about all a.m. looked after packing and c and had my things sent over to CraigDhu. Extremely sorry to leave the D Smiths who have been more than kind. Went to tea with Miss Smith, Janet and Lily Clarke to Mrs Fischer a sister of Captain Holden's, think she is rather of his genre ie tiresome. She plays the piano well and probably thinks so. Then a sad farewell to S' and to CraigDhu. General Scott away, Lilian and General Sclater at home. Latter dined out so L and I had tete a tete meal and wrote out an advert for her to Pioneer. Must make out another for myself that I am back here again. Have still a curious feeling of nausea in this home. I suppose memories of when I was feeling ill here before. 13th CraigDhu Simla I am certainly a different being to when I was here before! Did np all day. Miss Paterson came to paint General Sclater's portrait and I sat with him, darning the tea gown as an occupation. Every day I can find a new place! P.M. sat in tent in garden and worked again. General Sclater dined out. Land I alone. She seems more cheerful. General Scott is to return on Monday. I must endeavour to stay here till end of month! Once again, am in last state of bankruptcy! 14th Craig Dhu Simla Shopped a.m. and went to see la bonne. Had quite a satisfactory conversation, she has also cut down the excess of Troutian's trousseau which is good. P.M. General Sclater had a party for his clerks and their wives. Sir Archie Hunter arrived to see General Scott, fell in love with him. To Walkers Hospital to see Mrs Butler to be allowed out Saturday. Grim place I thought. I pray I may never have to darken its doors. Lilian very tired and low at night so went to bed. General Sclater and I had very nice tete a tete dinner. He is certainly delightful. 15th Craig Dhu Simla Spent a busy morning writing Mail ditto p.m. After lunch sat out in

tent in garden and after tea went short walk with General Sclater. Dined at Snowdon, most beautiful house. A Colonel Hudson took me in, Colonel Birdwood on other side. Spoke to Sir A Hunter, quite delightful. Wore Elizabeth's dress recovered, feel I look ginormous, but not noticeably so. Mrs Barring has asked me to stay! I believe I will be able to postpone Cecil till 1st December!! 22nd Craig Dhu Simla Wrote for Mail all a.m. and broke news about self! Wonder if they will all be very surprised. Captain Grahame came to see us, she's in bed with bad cold. P.M. finished Mail and went to tea with Mrs Crooke-Lawless and on to Viceregal Lodge where Lady Minto was having a tea for 2 Convent Schools. Mrs John Mackenzie annoyed me by referring to my state, how vulgar these tasks are. A. dined with Jack Cowans and rooked them at Snooker, am delighted as I know he fancied himself. A letter from Mrs Barring too renewing her offer. I shall accept it. She's kind. 23rd Simla Craig Dhu seem to have caught another slight chill, going to buy a "poshtine rug". Wrote a.m. to accept Mrs Berrington's offer, it should save me a lot of money, and perhaps I can soon pay off our debts! A had a good night at United Services which all helps. My adverts in "Pioneer" are not prospering as I could wish but hope for a boom shortly. Must put in another advert soon, if nothing happens. A. played polo, went down with him to Annandale. I sat with Mrs Maddox and the Sturgis child. A. played very well but met no pony he liked well enough to buy. Bought a Posteen on way home. Saturday 24th Simla Craig Dhu A,'s last day think 10 days leave is the quickest thing I know. He set off early to get to Naldera with Colonel Thompson. We all went out to lunch at Mashatra. I had a d-able coolie and took 2 times as I used to. If it was'nt for the expense, would like to have permanent one again, but at this time of year, quite absurd. Beni?, il faut que je fasser des economies! A. got back late having played well and beaten Colonel T one round and halved the other. Adjutant General to dinner, but have forgotten who.

Sunday 25th Simla Craig Dhu A beastly depressing day A went away. I went down to Station to see him off. Wondered as I ricked back if there'll be 2 to greet him when he comes up again. Did n.p. except mope. Went to tea with Miss Smith who was very nice and very fullsome. Think she is quite the most gushing old tart I know, but a very dear one all the same. I hate being alone and feel always desperate when A. has left me. 26th Simla Craig Dhu Still horribly depressed. Violet C Baker came came to see me a.m. and we had a nice talk. She thinks I'm marvellous not to show more. And was very much interested in my state. Geoffrey came to fetch her. Q'uil in ennui? Et je ne pourrais pas! Sat out working in tent most of day, lovely weather. Felt very lonely and deserted. 27th Simla Craig Dhu Weather continues glorious, but it gets very chilly at night. The posteen A. bought me is the greatest joy and comfort. General Sclater and I dined at Viceregal Lodge, enjoyed it immensely. November 3 rd Go Sylvan Hall. 7th Simla Sylvan Hall Sunday 8th Simla Sylvan Hall Shirked church, don't think I shall go again before the event as feel to conspicuous. One Mail letter from Frank, he has been very good at writing of late. Luncheon party consisting of Smiths, general Cowan Spencers and a grabby whose name I've forgotten. Spoke to Mrs Spencer for first time and liked her, but do'nt admire her frantically. Played with family after tea. Heard from A. Sonapur seems an awful place and am thankful we never made an effort to go there. 9th Simla Sylvan Hall Weather divine. No letter from A. but hardly expected it, as sure to be erratic. Sent off more goods parcels, have disposed now of everything bar the yellow tea gown which I've had no nibble for. Mrs Hawkes lunched, I felt ginormous. Walked round Elysium Hall with Mr Barry afterwards.Colonol and Mrs Rodwell to tea an affish kui-hi couple. Played Bridge again in 3 after dinner. I steadily loose every rubber, play vilely. 10th Simla Sylvan Hall 230 Raked in a good deal more money, also had several more

answers. Have disposed of everything now bar yellow tea gown. If I decide to stay up here till just before we sail, shall have another big Sale before going home and think it would be advisable to send for my box from Dum. Very interesting letter from A. all about the match they won. The new pony seems a great success, which is splendid. Noel played well and kept quite sound. Think it very sporting of A. to have bought a new pony. 11th Simla Sylvan Hall I like my hostess here very much, but have to restrain myself from heaving every scrap of furniture at my hosts head. He "means well" however. Poor Snubbie much bored here, he has to stay in my room all day or else that brute Spot attacks him. Cold and cheerless day. Went to see Mrs CrookeLawless a.m. and did some shopping. Mrs Marlowe (alias the Purple Phantom) and Mrs Woodman to lunch. Tea chez General Cowans and before that to see Mrs Grahame at Corstorphane. Heard details of Highland Light Infantry's defeat by 92nd at polo, fear none of them played over well. 12th Simla Wrote a certain amount of Mail letters, also sent off more parcels and raked in some money. Never expected to get rid of my dirt so well. Think I shall make about £20 which will come in very useful. Moved over to Yates Place where I forsee I shall be very happy and comfortable. Mrs Barrington is too wonderfully kind, and I cannot understand how she can be fagged to have me. Went with Mrs Grahame to tea with General Cowane en route and met Major Casselsthere who A. bought "Hassar" from. Charming face and manner. Our first wedding day we've not been together. 13th Simla Yates Place Not a very good night, Snubbie being the disturbing element. In bed to breakfast and down at 12. Find this A.'s arrangement. The infant and the Eurasian dame made a certain amount of noise next door, but I rather like it than otherwise. At 3 went for a walk till 4, met Mrs Mant in Barnes Court, she goes home tomorrow. Mrs Barnard and Mrs Mahon looked in hurriedly at tea time, but did'nt stay. T.R. in most uncomfortable position and felt in great discomfort all day. Hope he moves soon. Did a

lot of knitting for him. No letter from A. qulious? affair. 14th Simla Yates Place It's quite delightful here I honestly don’t think I've ever felt so fit in my life, or in such good spirits. Must tell A. must go in for family annually! If only the first three months could be skipped, which were more than detestable. Worked hard at T.R.'s garments most of the day and to tea with Mrs Fell, who has just had a daughter. She, Mrs Fell, I like very much. She was at school in Brussels with the Murrays and G. Langtons and likes Clara. But laughs at her domestic worries. An extra charming letter from A. Je le manque tellement. 15th Simla Yates Place Sat out all a.m. with Mrs B and Roderick on tennis court, she always does nurse on Sundays. I think her Eurasian nurse most trying. Her rice is awful. She looks as if she'd stepped out of Old Kent Road and is a regular 'Arriet to look at. Went to Craig Dhu p.m. in rickshaw and packed up all Lilian's things, they are to be sent over tomorrow morning. Have had a few answers and its more convenient for me to have them here handy to pack. Hope I'll get rid of them soon, as with any luck, in a month from today I'll be laid low! To tea with Archie Campbells, like them both. Poor Angus died the other day in Italy. 20th Simla Yates Place 240 A telephone message from Mrs Barney asking me to lunch. I went. Dear little fussy soul she always seems hustled and in a hurry! P.M. walked with her as far as Lakkar bazaar and to shops to shop. Bought a screen, shall certainly want it later and now it will be most comforting, Paid a lot of bills and my magnificent supply of money seems to have dwindled to nil! Home about 5:30. Heard from Susan the Madrassi ayah Mrs Mahon told me of, that she can come and for voyage home. A good biz I called it. Letter from A, my daily treat. 21st Simla Yates Place Every day I like being here more, Mrs B is so kind, and I feel so at home. Have now made great alterations to my room, and with the aid of screen I bought, have, I think about defeated draughts. Mrs Fell is sending me another screen, I wanted to buy it but she would'nt hear of it. Very short walk

p.m. Colonel and MrsCox to tea, like them both very much. He was full of A's billiards, which he'd learned about and is anxious to play him in Calcutta. Poor A, I'm afraid his time down there will be much curtailed if he comes up here on 15th. I want him badly, but don't want to be selfish in bringing him up. 22nd Simla Yates Place Sat out in garden all a.m with Madame B, she always does nurse Sundays, when the 'Old Kent Road' goes to visit her people. And consequence a holy quiet reigns next door and the difference in the sound is marvellous. P.M. went for quite a long walk by myself thro' Barnes Court, which is almost tofround?, down on to Jakko and so home by Chota Simla Bazar. Snubbie very naughty, would not follow and got very angry with him. Small Mail (late) from Hilda and Esme, rest probably at Dinapore. 23rd Simla Yates Place That tiresome female Mrs Fisher, Captain Holden's sister looked in a.m., never met such a self-centred or egotistical creature. Mrs Macnaughton to lunch. Nice little thing. Wire from A to say he goes Dum tonight. Mrs B and I went for a short walk. Worked hard at my vests, they seem to take longer than I thought. The handki I ordered for A and Frank arrived, fear they are on big side but are very nice and fine. Colder day very little sun. 24th Simla Yates Place Usual sort of day, worked hard at woollen garments. Am very anxious to make headway with them. Sold a hat for Lilian and sent a glowing and somewhat untruthful advert to Pioneer of her things. Hope she does'nt see it! Walked for 3/4 hour p.m. Weather continues more than glorious. Am longing for 15th when Arthur hopes to come. He's an angel to give up his golf and Bridge and I'll show him how I appreciate his unselfishness. He was to arrive Dum this am, wonder if he was Bridging to night at Bengal Club! 25th Simla Yates Place A cold cheerless and blustery day, worked am and walkedwithFB on tennis court pm. A regular blizzard came on night and it felt very cold. Was glad to shut windows. A's last from Dinapore. Most satisfactory, Grandie? allows him to come on 15th and if nothing happens in the 10 days may

have an extension. It is very good of him. Am longing for his arrival and hope and pray TR won't precede him. 26th Simla Yates Place Snow on ground am. Mrs R-Brown came at 11 and found her very nice. She was much pleased with rooms and with everything and willing to use Mrs Barnard's things which will save much expense. Wrote few Mail letters informed Frank of impending event. Got on splendidly with work. Splendid letter from A from Bengal Club, fear he feels lonely at Dum without me. He can't possibly miss me more than I do him. Went a constitutional with FB before tea, she is a most attractive person and I've got over the feeling about Therese? 27th Simla Yates Place Sat on verandah a.m. wrapped in furs and kept quite warm. P.M. went in rickshaw to shops and walked back. Felt better for the exercise. A Miss Tew, friend of F.B's arrived to stay, a spinster of a certain age. Seems nice tho' extremely common. Her voice is a worthy pendant to the 'Old Kent Road' next door. Letter from A, seems very busy both soldierly and socially. Had played Bridge, hope he'll do his good win. Snubbie has to be put on sick list for a week. Babu says he has a cough. 28th Simla Yates Place Coolish morning but sun appeared p.m. and it was lovely. Worked on verandah a.m. P.M. took Snubbie for a walk. Have put him on sick list for about a week and he will have to spend the time in his basket. No letter from A very disappointing, but good training for me as I've asked him not t write next week, with all his Generals fussing around and his tiring field days. Miss Tew seems very nice, but her accent is worthy of Roehampton factory Girls Club! 29th Simla Yates Place The long expected mail turned up, with answers from 'annouce' charming letter from Hilda, Elizabeth, Annie T and Esme, but a thoroughly nasty one from Ma, who imagines herself injured, or thinks she was the last to be told. I do think her nature and character are the nastiest I know, she should be a solemn warning to me. She also says of course I have all garments so won't send anything. A neat way of getting out of spending any money! I might ask her for

some of Uncle John's £50 she seems to have bagged! Sunday December 6th Weather distinctly more chilly, but gloriously bracing. Diminutive Mail, Elizabeth, Hilda and Frank. Hilda remarks having seen Ma and that she spoke so nicely of me &c. To begin with, why should she and to continue why should she write acrimonious remarks to me. Walked p.m. and met Mrs Barney, she had'nt time to come in to tea. Manufactured a night sock for myself, a great success. Heard from A, a bad evening at Bridge, minus R 200/-! 7th Simla Yates Place. Usual sort of day, have absolutely nil to write about. Continue to feel splendidly well and cannot imagine T.R. can arrive before end of month. In a way I should like to be in bed by the time Mr Berrington arrives, 24th as I cannot fancy I am an attractive sight. But somehow I do not believe I am as huge as others. Snubs and I went for our usual walk, I must vary it one day by going in rickshaw. A is an angel and writes daily, can't think how he makes the time. 8th Simla Yates Place. Much colder day, endeavoured to write some Mail letters, but felt very lazy and slack all day, and did very little work. Went my usual walk p.m. and to bed before dinner, when I had enough energy to do a little hemming. Heard from A., to-day week I hope he starts, it is too splendid for words. I do hope and pray T.R. will not turn up before he does. I do want him to be with me during the time. He had a splendid ? at Bridge and recouped his losses and made a bit. May it continue! 9th Simla Yates Place Wrote to the new Dr, Captain Leicester, asking him if he'd attend me, he's coming tomorrow he writes, between 10 - 11. Shall have a cris de nerfs! Nothing to chr?, walked along to the Meredith house and back. Wrote a good many letters to Mail. Have probably written most of the important ones. Feeling very well. I do wonder which day I will be laid low. I keep on praying it will not be before A. comes. With luck he should be here tomorrow week. 10th Simla Yates Place 260 Captain Leicister came at 10.30, he seems quite nice. He

pommelled me thoroughly with his hands, but grace a Dieu only a l'exterieur! He gave the 23rd or possibly 25th as the probable date. Trust he may be right, as it would mean A would be here. He is due to-day week. Sunday 13th Simla Yates Place. I wonder when the last occasion was that I went to church! Shall certainly never remember my way about my prayer book. Worked all a.m., finished A's pink night socks which are a dream. Was engaged to tea at Rooksnest with the Archie Campbells, but wrote to decline. Don’t think theirs is a good hill for me at present. Big Mail, charming letters from Annie T and Hilda and Elizabeth and an eccentric tho' characteristic one from Mother. She's a weird woman, if ever there was one. My daily delight from A. at tea time. I simply live on his letters. 14th Simla Yates Place I keep on wondering if I can last out till Arthur comes? Shall be bitterly disappointed if I don't. Worked hard at night socks for Arthur and finished off Turkish T? napkins. Went round by Barnes Court and Chota Simla before tea. Think it was on the long side, also too hilly. Very nice letter from Arthur, but poor darling had lost R450/- at races and was feeling very sad. Also got wire to say had had no time to write today. C'est un vrai ange. How I am looking forward to seeing him! 15th Simla Yates Place Had an anxious 1/4 d'heure, as I was afraid T.R. was en route, had a slight show, but don't think it is anything. Must be very careful till Thursday and then I don't mind when it comes. Am writing this 8/1/09 About lunchtime definate signs appeared, telephoned to Mrs Reeve-Brown who came at 6p.m., confirmed suspicions and came to stay at 10P.M. Dined in comfort, but spent the night in great discomfort. Began to be ill about 12 and acute about 2. 16th Simla Yates Place. Our son and heir born at 8.10 A.M., intensely relieved and delighted when the Dr told me it was a 'fine boy'. His lungs were magnificent, likewise his voice. I could hear. Spent a most unpleasant night, which I made more hideous by my yells for Arthur and for chloroform! Intensely relieved

to get the latter. In the night watches Mrs R-B said the infant will probably be born at 1PM today, 12 hours! I was determined to hustle it up which I think I did! Mrs Reeves-Brown was more than good and kind and certainly seems a splendid nurse. She did everything, the Dr came at about 7.30 but was only a spectator. I was practically conscious the whole time and can remember every detail. It was most interesting. Have never felt anything so acute or so devilish as the pains. Very often they come at an interval of 1/2 hours or every 10 minute, but mine were every 5 minutes to begin with and every 1/2 minute at the end. Felt absolutely 'exhausted and tired' and cannot conceive what I should have done, had they chosen to continue for many more hours. Was shown my son when he was 1/2 hour old. I cannot pretend I thought him handsome, but his hair was thick all over his head. And his voice is more superb than Snubbie's! His first hour of life was spent wrapt in my pink blanket, lying in the armchair by the fire where he squeaked and sucked his fist, till attended to. This latter accomplishment he acquired before 5 minutes old! Now that all is over, I am glad and thankful Arthur was not here. He would have been so wretched and as my affair was so quick, I went straight to bed and was'nt able to walk about a bit, I should'nt have been able to see him at all. As bad luck would have it, his train very late and he never came till 7.30. A great joke for Fanny Barrington had both written and telephoned to him to Kalka and he was so rushed there, he quite forgot to ask for letters. So the first he knew was a scribble from me to say I was well and going on splendidly also the son, at Simla station. Delighted to see him but felt almost too weak and shattered to properly appreciate him. It is odd how absolutely done one feels and I really got off very luckily. Cash Account Miss Smith to send her rickshaw on tonga road below Viceregal Lodge below the Band house. Luggage and servant by train and book to Summerhill where chaprassis and coolies will meet them. Wire to Miss Smith hour I leave Kalka.

R .A .P Jampannis Nov 1st 1 " 2nd 1 " 3rd 1 " 4th 1 " 5th 1 " 6th 1 " 10th 12 " 11th 12 " 12th1 " 15th 12 " 20th 12 " 30th 8 9 8 Mat 10 Total 19 8 Hotel 250 Servants 70 Rick 50 370 A. 350 Total 720 1st day Baramulla 2nd day Uri 29 miles 3rd"Ghari 34 3/4 " 4th Kohala 34 5th SunnyBank 27 1/2 miles 6th Pindi 37 162 1/4 miles NOTES. 1. Lt. Colonel Arthur Alexander Wolfe-Murray CB.Born 22nd May 1866. Son of James WolfeMurray and Louisa Grace Hay, (daughter of Sir Adam Hay 7th Bart.) Educated at Harrow. He entered the Army in 1886, was made Captain 1893, Major 1904, Lieutenant Colonel 1912. He served in the South African War 1899-1900, and 1902, twice being mentioned in Dispatches. Married Evelyn Mary Hay daughter of Colin Mackenzie Lord Lieutenant of Peeblesshire 12 Nov ??. Served in the European War 1914-15. Died 7th December 1918. 2. At Barrackpore the Viceroys had a great suburban home until the capital of India moved to Delhi.

3. At Kanpur a frightful massacre of seige survivors took place at Sati Chaura Gat during the Mutiny of 1857.