Determining Your Sewing Thread Requirement

Service & Technik Information for the sewing industry

Determining your sewing thread requirements

Determining thread demand Determining the thread demand is very important and should not be roughly estimated. The better you calculate the thread demand, the more you can avoid keeping too much stock on hand. In this way determining the exact calculation of thread demand can directly influence a decrease in costs. An effective system to calculate this thread demand can vary according to the: product group product design process of product batch size the organisation within the company

and many other factors require different calculation instruments and processes. In order to offer the suitable solution for each and every garment manufacturer, AMANN has developed various calculation aids in the last few years – in close cooperation with the garment industry. This brochure offers an overview of the available calculation methods and affords a detailed requirements table for the most important stitch types – a reference guide for each thread calculation. The basis of each thread demand calculation is the determination of the stitch type and the sewing parameter. With this result we can determine the thread demand by multiplying the seam length with the given thread demand value. It is a good idea to subdivide into needle, bobbin and, when needed, cover thread categories, in order to allow for the various layouts of the individual thread systems in the disposition.

The illustrated results in the thread demand per stitch type table were arrived at by finishing, undoing and measuring sample seams under the above-mentioned AMANN sewing technique conditions.

The influence of stitch density

The stitch density has a great influence on thread demand, in particular in stitch types with cross-directional threads (zigzag, blanket stitching, and cover stitching). An increase of stitch density from 4 to 6 stitches/cm with the lockstitch (stitch type 301) leads, for example, to an increased thread demand of about 15%. With the 2 needle covering chainstitch (stitch type 602) thread demand rises with the same increase of stitch density to 35%. This must be taken into consideration during calculation in order to make sure to avoid having not enough stock on hand with the resulting costly subsequent deliveries. AMANN has researched the influence of stitch densities on the most important stitch types. The results can be requested at your convenience in AMANN Technical Sewing Service.

The influence of stitch density on thread demand for stitch type 301 and 401 Thread demand in m (per 1 m of seam) 7

6

5

Factors of influence on the thread demand The thread demand is dependant on numerous factors. The thread demand data in the overview tables in this brochure (p. 4 – 8) are based on these parameters used in practice: Stitch depth : Fabric weight :

4 stitches /cm

tch

0 e4

1

ub

le

ch

titc

h)

4

3

stitch

le doub 301 ( e p y t

locks

titch)

2

1,0 mm (at two layers of fabric)

2

sti

typ

(do

s ain

Seam width :

see table data

Seam length :

1 metre

1

2

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3

4

5 6 7 Stitch density (stitches / cm)

The influence of fabric weight

A change in fabric weight also has a great effect on the thread demand where, besides a change in overall thread demand, the ratio between needle and bobbin threads could shift. With exception of the double lockstitch – and presuming an ideal distribution – all stitch types whose chains lie not within but outside the fabric, increase their percentage of needle and bobbin threads with increasing fabric weight. With the double chainstitch only the needle thread demand increases with increasing fabric weight, whereas the bobbin thread demand remains constant.

The influence of fabric weight on thread demand using the stitch type 401 (double chainstitch) as an example Thread demand in m (per 1 m of seam) 8 7 al Tot

6

and em dd a e hr ic t Bas

4 3

The thread tension will alter the thread demand value according to setting. This can change the ratio between needle, bobbin and, if applicable, cover thread. It can also greatly influence the amount of the overall thread demand. In practice, great fluctuations in the ratio between the threads as well as in the overall thread demand have been noticed especially in stitch types 500 and 600. This may also be due to the fact that in practice an ideal distribution of threads does not always prevail. This is to be allowed for should the parameters thread tension, stitch density, fabric weight or seam widths in the calculation not match the data in this brochure. Missing demand values for seams that have been developed under other sewing parameters should be determined by practical research methods, this means by undoing stitches and measuring them. The thread demand values in the tables are net values, meaning that the thread demand relates exclusively to a one meter long sewn seam. The thread demand for starting and ending a seam, changing threads, embroidering, chain stitching, etc. has not been allowed for.

and em dd a e thr

5

The influence of tension on stitches

Bobbin thread demand

2

In order to establish a sufficient thread demand calculation, a thread allowance must be added to the net calculation result. Through our experience this allowance to be added must lie between 15 and 25 % of the end net calculation. This allowance takes fluctuations resulting from the respective degree of size and other influences of production and methods into consideration.

1

1

2

3

4 5 6 Fabric weight (in millimetres)

Developing thread demand All-inclusive calculation

Individual calculation

1. Using values arrived at in practice as a basis

1. Without aid

2. Using a model catalogue as a guide, for example the AMANN Sewing Thread Inventory Planner

2. Using the module system of the AMANN Sewing Thread Inventory Planner 3. With software support (AMANN NBE program)

3

AMANN sewing thread requirement tables Stitch Type

Seam Construction ISO 4915 DIN 61400

Top

Seam Appearance Bottom

Seam Width

Stitches

Thread Required

mm

(per cm)

per 1m of seam

%

NF

Single-thread chainstitch

101

–

2

NF:

3,80 m

100 %

–

2

NF:

4,50 m

100 %

–

2

NF:

4,50 m

100 %

–

4

NF:

1,40 m

100 %

NF

Single-thread blindstitch

103

NF

Single-thread blindstitch

Lockstitch (Hand stitch type)

105

NF

209

NF = Needle thread · GF = Bobbin / looper thread · LF = Cover thread

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Remember to allow extra thread for beginning and end of seam

4

Stitch Type

Seam Construction ISO 4915 DIN 61400

Top

Seam Appearance Bottom

Seam Width

Stitches

Thread Required

mm

(per cm)

per 1m of seam

NF

Double lockstitch

Double lockstitch

–

301

4

NF: GF:

GF

Double chainstitch

Double chainstitch Zigzag

1,40 m 1,40 m

50 % 50 %

2,80 m

100 %

2,70 m 2,70 m

50 % 50 %

5,40 m

100 %

6,50 m 6,50 m

50 % 50 %

13,00 m

100 %

1,70 m 3,10 m

35 % 65 %

4,80 m

100 %

2,40 m 4,40 m

35 % 65 %

6,80 m

100 %

NF

304

GF

5

4

NF: GF:

Zigzag

Double lockstitch Multi-stitch Zigzag

%

NF

8

321

18

NF: GF:

GF

NF

401

–

4

NF: GF:

GF

NF

3

404 GF

NF = Needle thread · GF = Bobbin / looper thread · LF = Cover thread

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4

NF: GF:

Remember to allow extra thread for beginning and end of seam

5

Stitch Type

Two-needle double chainstitch

Seam Construction ISO 4915 DIN 61400

Top

Seam Width

Stitches

Thread Required

mm

(per cm)

per 1m of seam

NF

406

5

29 % 71 %

11,80 m

100 %

NF: 5,10 m GF: 11,60 m

30 % 70 %

16,70 m

100 %

3,40 m 6,20 m 5,80 m

22 % 40 % 38 %

15,40 m

100 %

4

NF: 16,40 m

100 %

4

NF: 1,70 m GF: 10,00 m

15 % 85 %

11,70 m

100 %

4

GF NF NF

NF

6

407

4

GF

with common looper

LF

Two-times double chainstitch

NF: GF:

NF NF

408

GF

with cover thread

6

%

3,40 m 8,40 m

NF

with common looper

Three-needle double chainstitch

Seam Appearance Bottom

4

GF

NF: GF: LF:

NF

Single-thread overedge stitch

Two-thread overedge stitch Interlaced at

7

501

NF

502

GF

needle hole

NF = Needle thread · GF = Bobbin / looper thread · LF = Cover thread

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5

Remember to allow extra thread for beginning and end of seam

6

Stitch Type

Two-thread overedge stitch

Seam Construction ISO 4915 DIN 61400

Top

Seam Width

Stitches

Thread Required

mm

(per cm)

per 1m of seam

NF

503

5

4

NF: GF:

NF

504

GF GF

Interlaced at

5

4

%

6,70 m 5,00 m

57 % 43 %

11,70 m

100 %

NF: 1,70 m GF: 12,10 m

12 % 88 %

13,80 m

100 %

6,30 m 7,50 m

46 % 54 %

13,80 m

100 %

NF: 3,40 m GF: 12,90 m

21 % 79 %

16,30 m

100 %

NF: 3,40 m GF: 13,70 m

20 % 80 %

17,10 m

100 %

GF

Interlaced on edge

Three-thread overedge stitch

Seam Appearance Bottom

needle hole

Three-thread overedge stitch

NF

505

GF

Interlaced on edge

Four-thread overedge stitch (Mock safety

5

4

GF

NF NF

512

GF GF

6

4

stitch) Interlaced at

NF: GF:

needle hole

Four-thread overedge stitch

NF NF GF GF

514

Interlaced at needle hole

NF = Needle thread · GF = Bobbin / looper thread · LF = Cover thread

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6

4

Remember to allow extra thread for beginning and end of seam

7

Stitch Type

Two-needle covering chain-stitch

Seam Construction ISO 4915 DIN 61400

Stitches

Thread Required

mm

(per cm)

per 1m of seam

20 % 50 % 30 %

GF

16,90 m

100 %

NF NF NF

NF: 5,10 m GF: 11,60 m LF: 5,80 m

23 % 52 % 25 %

22,50 m

100 %

NF: 6,80 m GF: 14,80 m LF: 5,80 m

25 % 54 % 21 %

27,40 m

100 %

NF

602

6

4

LF

605

6

4

NF: GF: LF:

GF LF NF NF NF NF

607

4

6

GF

Seam Appearance

Stitch Type ISO 4915 DIN 61400

%

3,40 m 8,40 m 5,10 m

with cover thread

Seam Operation

Seam Width

NF

with cover thread

Four-needle covering chain-stitch

Seam Appearance Bottom

LF

with cover thread

Three-needle covering chain-stitch

Top

NF

Type mm

No. of Stitches

Thread Required

%

per unit

Circular tack Single-thread chainstitch

2

107

7

NF:

0,07 m

100 %

42

NF: GF:

0,30 m 0,20 m

60 % 40 %

0,50 m

100 %

Zigzag

Bartack Double lockstitch

304

12

Zigzag NF = Needle thread · GF = Bobbin / looper thread · LF = Cover thread

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Remember to allow extra thread for beginning and end of seam

8

Seam Operation

ISO 4915 DIN 61400

Seam Appearance

Type mm

No. of Stitches

Thread Required

%

per unit

Lingerie buttonhole

Single-thread chainstitch Zigzag

Lingerie buttonhole

Double lockstitch Zigzag

Eyelet buttonhole

without bartack Double chainstitch Zigzag

Sewing on button Lingerie Single-thread chainstitch without button shank

Sewing on button Outerwear

Single-thread chainstitch with button shank

Sewing on button

Double lockstitch Zigzag

107

16

304

18

404

30

107

107

304

NF = Needle thread · GF = Bobbin / looper thread · LF = Cover thread

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90

NF:

0,50 m

100 %

160

NF: GF:

0,10 m 0,85 m

10 % 90 %

0,95 m

100 %

0,80 m 0,20 m

80 % 20 %

1,00 m

100 %

96

NF: GF:

2-hole

7

NF:

0,20 m

100 %

4-hole

14

NF:

0,40 m

100 %

4-hole

21

NF:

0,60 m

100 %

NF: GF:

0,10 m 0,05 m 0,15 m

65 % 35 % 100 %

NF: GF:

0,20 m 0,10 m 0,30 m

65 % 35 % 100 %

2-hole

6

4-hole

12

Remember to allow extra thread for beginning and end of seam

9

Empirical data for roughly calculating the amount of thread required The table below is intended as a guide. The thread consumption figures it contains are based on fashionable and qualitative characteristics of the individual garments listed. This means that standard thread amounts indicated are not arithmetical mean values derived from the maximum and minimum values shown in the Range of Variations column. They already include allowances for the beginning and end of seams as well as colour changes.

Men’s and Boys’ wear

Standard Amount (m)

Range of Variation (m)

Overlocking Seams (m)

Business suit trousers/ corduroy jeans

300

250 – 350

170

130

Blue denim jeans

280

230 – 370

130

150

Sackcoat, blazer

190

170 – 240

45

145

Waistcoat

70

57 – 80

–

70

Winter coat

265

250 – 285

60

205

Poplin coat

265

250 – 285

40

225

Shorts

90

80 – 100

50

40

Smock

255

230 – 285

90

165

Work suit (two-piece)

375

345 – 400

185

190

Bib slacks

225

200 – 250

115

110

Anorak, blouson

210

170 – 250

40

170

Bathing/dressing gown

210

170 – 250

110

100

Tracksuit

200

170 – 250

120

80

Underwear Lingerie

Distribution Assembly and Ornamental Seams (m)

Standard Amount (m)

Range of Variation (m)

Overlocking Seams (m)

Men’s dress shirt (long-sleeved)

125

115 – 150

80

45

Men’s undershirt, T shirt

80

70 – 90

65

15

Ladie’s panties, Men’s briefs

100

80 – 100

80

20

Panty girdle

100

80 – 120

80

20

Bra

55

40 – 80

20

35

Pyjama

200

170 – 200

120

80

Night gown

150

130 – 190

100

50

10

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Distribution Assembly and Ornamental Seams (m)

Standard Amount (m)

Range of Variation (m)

Overlocking Seams (m)

Dress (unlined)

150

125 – 180

90

60

Dress (lined)

195

160 – 255

100

95

Skirt (unlined)

110

90 – 140

75

35

Skirt (lined)

170

150 – 200

125

45

Jacket

200

170 – 260

60

140

Costume (two-piece)

400

310 – 490

135

265

Slacks

200

180 – 240

150

50

Poplin coat

285

250 – 370

45

240

Winter coat

285

250 – 370

45

240

Smock

225

170 – 280

75

150

Blouse

120

100 – 150

55

65

Bathing suit

120

100 – 140

70

50

Pyjama suit

200

170 – 250

100

100

Ladies’ wear

Standard Amount (m)

Shoes

Distribution Assembly and Ornamental Seams (m)

Range of Variation (m)

Overlocking Seams (m)

Distribution Assembly and Ornamental Seams (m)

Men’s shoes (elegant)

21

17 – 28

–

21

Men’s shoes (casual)

26

23 – 30

–

26

Men’s boots

33

28 – 40

–

33

Ladies’ shoes (elegant)

26

23 – 30

–

26

Ladies’ shoes (casual)

26

23 – 30

–

26

Ladies’ boots

33

25 – 45

–

33

11

Determining thread demand with the Sewing Thread Inventory Planner The Sewing Thread Inventory Planner is an especially effective way to arrive at a calculation. For the most important product groups in Men’s and Boys’ wear and Ladies’ wear the thread demand values can be quickly and easily taken from a folder without much effort. The Sewing Thread Inventory Planner is built on a basis of illustrations of models and model elements and their respective thread demand values. There are two different ways to use this process for your calculation :

Determining the thread demand by using the model illustrations With the aid of

the illustration the description of different customary processes the illustration detailed additional information

the respective model presented in a product group is clearly described. When the model in the Sewing Thread Inventory Planner matches the garment to be calculated then the user can record the respective thread demand at a glance and adopt the value into his calculation. This is the simplest and fastest method to determine the thread amount in a garment.

Determining the thread demand by using the module method

Using the elemental models for all important product groups and default modules as a guide, individual models can be put together and calculated. The elemental model contains the seam positions that are required for the finishing of the respective garment piece. This means details specific to the model like pockets or seam finishes of trousers etc., are not calculated because these could be designed in every possible variation. In the elemental model the customary process types used in practice are given under the heading “Variations”. The variations that are the basis of the calculation define the types of seams and the stitch types used for them and the finishing processes for the most important seam positions. In the category “Modules” functional and decorative model elements are presented to be used by the garment manufacturer to create a basis model. Belonging to this, amongst others, is a multitude of differentiating pocket solutions, quilting and collar designs. By adding the specified thread demand values for the building blocks and the respective basis model the sum for the total model can be calculated. A Sewing Thread Inventory Plan-ner solely for the Ladies’ wear and Men’s and Boys’ wear is available. The following product groups can be found in the folder:

According to product group, up to 5 different model variations are presented, meaning a large diversity of variations creating excellent preconditions for the calculation process. For some models there are up to 3 customary processes calculated that are used in practice – also in this regard the chances are great that “his” model may be found in the Sewing Thread Inventory Planner.

Ladies’ wear Blazers, blouses, trousers, jeans, polo shirts, skirts, T-shirts Men’s and Boys’ wear Suit Jackets, vests, trousers, shirts, denim shirts, jeans, polo shirts, T-shirts

read g T hlanner n i w P Se t ory an d en ’s n ish : Inve ear / M r engl

es’ w an o Ladi r, germ w ea ’ s y Bo Euro

39,–

12

Service & Technology

Determining thread demand with the NBE program The NBE program is a professional software solution to support the calculation of thread demand. The NBE program can, considering all the important parameters that influence thread demand, create one exact thread demand calculation per sewing operation. You just have to enter the required seam positions that are to be calculated and the respective parameters. The calculation and exact evaluation is taken care of by the NBE program. The result is a detailed work plan and thread demand overview giving the required consumption for the thread article to be used and can be applied as a work basis directly out of the disposition.

The NBE program was developed in close association with the garment industry, therefore distinguishing itself from other programs for its practice-oriented and userfriendly principle. The advantages of determining thread demand by using a computer program shows in the flexible usability of the great amount of data calculated by entering the various models and modules. With the NBE program a complicated and quick alteration of models is made possible, as well as the simple putting together of new models by adding modules and base models. This type of calculation is particularly efficient and precise at the same time.

To guarantee an optimal calculation, the NBE program fulfils the following requirements: Networking capability Based on well-known software (Microsoft Access 2000) Designed for user-friendliness Simple, clearly organized system Visual presentation (models, stitch types) International usability (Language choice German and English) Flexibility (product diversity, individual user’s needs)

It is possible to integrate the NBE program into existing PDM solutions. Examples are available. Individual – according to existing software in the company – clarification of the integration or linkage should be possible. The AMANN Technical Sewing Service is happy to be of assistance. The NBE program is available in the German and English language. The CD-ROM comes with a detailed manual.

ram pro g ng lish : E B N or e an g erm Eu ro

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More brochures AMANN product range

Application recommendations for AMANN sewing threads and ACKERMANN embroidery threads

Sewing of ultra-lightweight fabrics

Determining your sewing thread requirements

100011

100015

100023

Sewing on buttons securely

100029

AMANN sewing threads for shoes and leather goods

100034

Sewing knitted fabrics

Guidelines for sewing of outerwear, underwear, lingerie, shirts, blouses, swimwear and leisurewear

The sewability of elastic fabric

14

Service & Technology

100041

100541

An overview of AMANN thread products

An overview of ACKERMANN embroidery threads

Service We can advise you in all your questions about sewing and processing technology. Just give us a call.

Telephone + 49 (7143) 277-250

15

DIN EN ISO 9001 : 2000 Zertifikat: 09 100 6148

Certificate No.: 01 104 000462

No. 93.0.4233

Amann & Söhne GmbH & Co. KG Hauptstraße 1 D-74357 Bönnigheim Telephone +49 (7143) 277-250 Telefax +49 (7143) 277-460 [email protected] www.amann.com

100023 GB0PDF034

All facts and figures are intended exclusively for your information. All recommendations presuppose adjustment of the sewing conditions to the appropriate sewing yarn.