Culinary History

  • November 2019
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Culinary History Culinary schools are one of the fastest-growing educational sectors in the United States, and the history of this relatively new program of study is as varied as the food service industry itself. Before organized cooking schools were founded in the U.S., individual professionals dedicate their life's work to teaching others how to cooks. One of the first American cooking schools of note was the Boston Cooking School, which not only taught students to cook, but also taught instructors how to teach the culinary arts. One Boston Cooking School student of note, Fannie Farmer, began teaching after graduation and eventually became the school’s principal. She later published The Boston Cooking School Cookbook in 1896. The book presented a nouvelle approach in cooking instruction, stressing the importance of accuracy in recipes and ingredient measurements. Before this time, measuring was done by the pinch and handful; Farmer’s book continues to serve as a valid resource and remains in print today. Founded in 1929, the American Culinary Federation (ACF) became an assemblage of prominent U.S. chefs’ clubs. Members benefit from many the professional development resources of the ACF, and its mission remains to make a positive difference for culinarians through education, apprenticeship, and certification, while creating a fraternal bond of respect and integrity among culinarians everywhere. The 1940s was an important period for culinary education in the United Sates. As the post-war economy boomed, so, too, did cooking schools. One noteworthy culinary figure during this period was American culinarian, James Beard, who began teaching via televised broadcasts in 1946. He later opened a cooking school at his Greenwich Village home, and instructed in American cooking for more than 30 years. Mr. Beard later became known as the grandfather of American gastronomy, and his former residence is now serves as headquarters for the James Beard Foundation. This non-profit foundation for lovers and students of the culinary arts works to celebrate the country's culinary artists, provides scholarships and educational opportunities, serves as a resource for the industry, and offers members the opportunity to enjoy the delights of fine dining. The same year of James Beard's cooking show debut, the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) was founded. The first career-oriented cooking school in the United States, the CIA is presently situation in Hyde Park, New York, where, annually, over 6,000 culinary professionals partake in continuing education courses to update and expand their professional knowledge. Next on the televised instructional cooking scene was Julia Child. Beginning in 1963, her show, The French Chef, taught viewers how to cook French cuisine (and soon went on to win both the prestigious George Foster Peabody and Emmy awards). Both her show and cooking books were considered groundbreaking work and generated significant public interest in the culinary arts as a career choice. Her works remain a standard guide for the culinary community today.

In 1971, Chef Madeleine Kamman opened her own cooking school, Modern Gourmet, in Massachusetts. Hailing from France, Chef Kamman blended French cooking standards with American ingredients, creating an entirely new culinary world to be explored and exploited. And so began her out-of-the-box inspiration for a generation of aspiring chefs. Within a few years, Kamman and her students ran their own restaurant, Chez La Mere Madeline, considered by many to be one of the finest restaurants in the United States. The College of Culinary Arts at Johnson & Wales University opened in 1973, with just 141 students. It quickly grew to become the world’s largest foodservice educator, and, in 1993, became the first U.S. school to offer a Bachelor of Science degree in the culinary arts. Today, Johnson & Wales is the world’s largest culinary educator; over 5,000 students are enrolled at any given time. Before the CIA was established, those who sought a career in the culinary arts generally undertook apprenticeships under seasoned chefs to gain on-the-job training. This learning method was a traditional course in Europe but a somewhat challenging arrangement as organized apprenticeships were a relatively new concept in the United States. In 1976, the American Culinary Federation Educational Institute (ACFEI) began coordinating apprenticeship programs with the help of a government grant. Today, apprenticeships continue today to offer an excellent culinary experience to aspiring chefs. The ACFEI apprenticeship program is currently the seventh largest US apprenticeship system. During the three-year apprenticeship program, students gain paid on-the-job experience and graduate as certified cooks. In 1986, the ACFEI Accrediting Commission was formed in response to the growing educational needs of culinary field. By 1990, the commission was recognized as a legitimate accreditation agency by the U.S. Department of Education. Today, there are over 90 U.S. culinary schools accredited by the ACFEI, a distinction of honor that carries the same clout as an individual certified by the ACF. The only comprehensive, international culinary education resource was first published in 1988. Shawguides’ annual Guide to Cooking Schools offers detailed descriptions of more than 1,000 schools, colleges, culinary apprenticeships, cooking vacations, culinary organizations worldwide. And the latest culinary sensation to make its educational splash is the television/website culinary mogul, the FoodNetwork. Offering entertaining and instructional shows on cooking, the network features such celebrated chefs as Emeril Legasse, Bobby Flay, and Wolfgang Puck. The website offers all of the show times, synopsis, and recipes for the asking, along with multitudinous how-tos, calorie calculators, and culinary Q&As. While the jury is still out on the statistical effect this multimedia empire has and will continue to have on the growth of culinary enrollment, the FoodNetwork continues to influence our culture and society with a new, heightened, highly-educated interest in food. This will surely continue to fuel our nation’s insatiable appetite for qualified, creative culinary professionals.

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