Coastal South Carolina By Terrance Zepke

The book is divided the same way as the coast: Myrtle Beach area, Georgetown area, Charleston area, and Beaufort area (including Hilton Head Island). Also in this book: * Fast facts for each area * Hundreds of historical and recent photographs * Complete histories, local attractions, and points of interest * List of annual traditions for each place * Strange tales and Lowcountry recipes * Helpful maps and tourism resources

Coastal South Carolina

Whatever you’re looking for can be found along this special stretch of coastline that starts along the action-packed Grand Strand and meanders on down to the scenic Lowcountry. Author Terrance Zepke makes sure that you don’t miss any of the charm and lore these coastal hamlets have to offer. This reference was written for everyone interested in coastal South Carolina: vacationers, retirees, anglers, nature lovers, watersports enthusiasts, daytrippers, boaters, and armchair travelers. The “fun ways to learn” sections and end-ofchapter quizzes make it an exceptional resource for educators, as well.

Coastal South Carolina Welcome to the Lowcountry

Terrance Zepke

Award-winning travel writer/photographer Terrance Zepke loves the Carolinas, which is why she lives part-time in each. It also explains the many books she has written: Coastal North Carolina, Ghosts of the Carolina Coasts, Ghosts and Legends of the Carolina Coasts, The Best Ghost Tales of North Carolina, The Best Ghost Tales of South Carolina, Lighthouses of the Carolinas, and Pirates of the Carolinas.

51295

Pineapple Press, Inc. Sarasota, Florida www.pineapplepress.com Cover design by Shé Heaton

$12.95

9

781561 643486

Zepke

ISBN 1-56164-348-3

COASTAL S OUTH CAROLINA WELCOME TO THE LOWCOUNTRY

TERRANCE ZEPKE

PINEAPPLE PRESS, INC. S ARASOTA , F LORIDA

Copyright © 2006 by Terrance Zepke All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. Inquiries should be addressed to: Pineapple Press, Inc. P.O. Box 3889 Sarasota, Florida 34230 www.pineapplepress.com Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Zepke, Terrance, Coastal South Carolina : welcome to the lowcountry / Terrance Zepke.-- 1st ed. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN-13: 978-1-56164-348-6 (pbk. : alk. paper) ISBN-10: 1-56164-348-3 (pbk. : alk. paper) 1. Atlantic Coast (S.C.)--Guidebooks. I. Title. F277.A86Z47 2006 917.404'44--dc22 2005030267

First Edition 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Design by Ramonda Talkie Printed in the United States of America

Coastal South Carolina

CONTENTS INTRODUCTION ix

1

MYRTLE BEACH AREA Introduction | 1 Fast Facts | 3 Islands and Towns | 5 1. Conway | 5 History | 5 Sites and Attractions | 7 2. North Myrtle Beach | 8 History | 8 Sites and Attractions | 10 3. Myrtle Beach | 10 History | 10 Sites and Attractions | 15 4. Murrells Inlet | 17 History | 17 Sites and Attractions | 18 5. Little River | 18 6. Surfside Beach | 19 Nearby Towns Calabash (NC) | 19 Ocean Isle Beach and Sunset Beach (NC) | 19 Recreational Activities and Sports | 20 Nature Preserves, Parks, and Sanctuaries | 27 Strange Tales and Ghosts | 30 Traditions | 33 Test Your Knowledge | 37 Fun Ways to Learn | 38

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GEORGETOWN AREA Introduction | 43 Fast Facts | 44 Islands and Towns | 45 7. Georgetown | 45 History | 45 Sites and Attractions | 50 8. Andrews | 53 9. DeBordieu Beach | 53 10. Litchfield Beach | 54 11. McClellanville | 56 12. Sandy Island | 57 13. Pawleys Island | 59 History | 59 Sites and Attractions | 64 14. North, South, and Cat Islands | 66 History | 66 15. Cape Romain Wildlife Refuge Islands | 70 History | 70 Recreational Activities and Sports | 73 Nature Preserves, Parks, and Sanctuaries | 78 Strange Tales and Ghosts | 82 Traditions | 86 Test Your Knowledge | 90 Fun Ways to Learn | 91

CHARLESTON AREA Introduction | 95 Fast Facts | 96 Islands and Towns | 98 16. Charleston | 98 History | 98

Sites and Attractions | 105 17. Daniel Island | 110 18. North Charleston | 111 19. Mount Pleasant | 112 20. Shem Creek | 114 21. Summerville | 115 22. Capers Island | 115 History | 115 23. Dewees Island | 118 History | 118 24. Goat Island | 121 History | 121 25. Isle of Palms | 123 History | 123 26. Sullivans Island | 126 History | 126 Sites and Attractions | 129 27. James Island | 131 History | 131 28. Folly, Morris, and Black Islands | 134 History | 134 Sites and Attractions | 135 29. Johns Island | 140 History | 140 Sites and Attractions | 143 30. Kiawah Island | 146 History | 146 31. Seabrook Island | 152 History | 152 32. Wadmalaw Island | 154 History | 154 Sites and Attractions | 157 33. Rockville | 160 34. Yonges Island | 160

35. Edisto Island | 161 History | 161 Sites and Attractions | 166 36. Botany Island | 167 37. Edingsville | 168 38. Pine Island | 169 39. Otter Island | 169 Recreational Activities and Sports | 169 Nature Preserves, Parks, and Sanctuaries | 175 Strange Tales and Ghosts | 179 Traditions | 186 Test Your Knowledge | 192 Fun Ways to Learn | 193

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BEAUFORT AREA Introduction | 197 Fast Facts | 198 Islands and Towns | 199 40. Beaufort | 199 History | 199 Sites and Attractions | 202 41. Bear Island | 204 42. Cat Island | 205 43. Coosaw Island| 206 44. Deer Island | 206 45. Dataw Island| 207 46. Distant Island | 207 47. Harbor Island | 207 48. Knowles Island | 208 49. Lady’s Island | 208 50. Port Royal | 210 51. St. Helena Island | 211 History | 211 Sites and Attractions | 215

52. Hunting Island | 217 History | 217 Sites and Attractions | 219 53. Fripp Island | 219 History | 219 54. Parris Island | 222 History | 222 Sites and Attractions | 224 55. Spring Island | 224 History | 224 56. Hilton Head Island | 227 History | 227 Sites and Attractions | 230 57. Jenkins Island | 232 58. Bluffton | 232 59. Turtle Island | 233 60. Pinckney Island | 233 History | 233 61. Daufuskie Island | 235 History | 235 Sites and Attractions | 242 Nearby Towns Savannah (GA) | 243 Tybee (GA) | 243 Recreational Activities and Sports | 245 Nature Preserves, Parks, and Sanctuaries | 251 Strange Tales and Ghosts | 254 Traditions | 259 Test Your Knowledge | 262 Fun Ways to Learn | 264 Additional Resources | 268 Index | 270 Photo Credits | 275

INTRODUCTION The South Carolina coast was used by the Indians long before “white man” discovered it. It is believed the Spanish explored it as early as 1514. The French tried unsuccessfully to establish a colony near Beaufort in 1562. The Spanish, fearful of French efforts to conquer the New World, established the settlement of Santa Elena in the same area in 1566. The colony relocated to Florida in 1587. This area remained uninhabited by settlers until the English established a colony on the Ashley River in 1670. A few years earlier, England’s King Charles II had given a land grant to eight prominent men, known collectively as the Lords Proprietors. It was a huge parcel of land, extending from the “southern boundary of Virginia to the mouth of the St. John’s [sic] River.” By the mid-1700s, rice and indigo crops had made many men rich. These planters owned large plantations and summer homes throughout the Lowcountry. The coastal hamlets were backdrops to many important skirmishes during the Revolutionary and Civil Wars. In fact, it was many years before most recovered from the impact of the Civil War. Places that were flourishing before the war, such as Charleston and Georgetown, were severely punished for their role in the war when the conflict ended. The increase in manufacturing and the opening of several military bases during World War I and World War II helped jump start these sagging economies. Ever since then, these port towns have thrived, thanks in large part to tourism. An increasing number of cruise ships are departing from Charleston, South Carolina, and Wilmington, North Carolina, bringing in millions of dollars annually. Military bases (and the families of military personnel) continue to play a vital role in the economy, especially around Beaufort and Parris Island. Places like Hilton Head Island and Myrtle Beach are becoming increasingly popular for weddings and honeymoons. As a result, the number of chapels and wedding-related services has risen substantially in the past few years. Furthermore, a record number of retirees have been relocating to these coastal communities in recent years. Millions of visitors, from students on spring break to families on summer vacation, continue to come to our beaches every year. Each section of this book includes its own introduction detailing specifics about that part of the coast. Additionally, the ix

beginning of each section includes “fast facts” about the area. At the end of each section is a quiz to test your knowledge, fun ways to learn, and strange tales relating to that area. You’ll also notice that there are many historical photos and tourism images included; it is important to realize how much these coastal hamlets have changed over the last few decades. While most have grown and prospered as expected, some places remain true to their origins, while others are hardly recognizable due to development. This book was written for a wide audience: students as an educational aid, potential vacationers looking for resources, those already on vacation who may be looking for a useful souvenir, daytrippers, history buffs, nature lovers, water sports enthusiasts, retirees, anglers, those looking to relocate or buy a vacation home, honeymooners, and armchair travelers. I wanted this to be much more than a guidebook, and hoped to convey the essence of each coastal community through history, trivia, folklore, and specific tourist information. The book is divided into four sections according to the geography of our coast: the Myrtle Beach area, Georgetown area, Charleston area, and Beaufort area. The upper coast consists of the Myrtle Beach and Georgetown areas, while the Charleston and Beaufort areas are known as the Lowcountry. Everything you could ever desire can be found along this stretch of coast, such as some of the best championship golf courses in this country, eerie ghost walks, exotic serpentariums, America’s only tea plantation, pristine beaches, historic lighthouses, stately old plantation homes, scenic carriage tours, Lowcountry seafood specialties (have you ever had Frogmore Stew?), folklore, dolphin-watching excursions, Let me excellent fishing, strange museums, and much more. show you the many splendors of the South Carolina coastline, starting with Myrtle Beach, commonly dubbed “The Grand Strand.”

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS This book could not have been completed without the aid of many people who went out of their way to provide photographs, verify facts, and open doors to invaluable research. I’d like to extend a hearty thank you to everyone (and you know who you are) who made my job easier. I truly cannot thank you enough. This extensive list includes family and friends, who know just what to say and do to keep me motivated. I’d also like to thank the staff at Pineapple Press for all their efforts. Couldn’t have done it without you! x

This book is dedicated to my Aunt Jack, who has survived more than her fair share of hurricanes. Through it all, she has managed to hold on to her sense of humor (just about the only thing that didn’t blow away during her last narrow escape) and her pure love of the coast.

Myrtle Beach Area

1 Myrtle Beach Area

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he Myrtle Beach area, dubbed “the Grand Strand,” has more golf courses, restaurants, theaters, shops, and amusements than any other place of equivalent size in the state. That’s why tourists return year after year to try different activities or explore different places. It is also an excellent starting point for numerous day trips—visitors can be in Georgetown in an hour, or Charleston within two hours. Or they can go north and be in the Southport, North Carolina, and Wilmington, North Carolina, areas in about an hour. Just twenty minutes north is Calabash, North Carolina. Calabash-style seafood is so popular that tourists line up outside restaurants for dinner as early as 4 P.M. During fishing season, you’ll find folks standing on the docks with their coolers, waiting for the fishing boats and shrimp trawlers to return. There’s nothing like fresh, local seafood! If you don’t like seafood, that’s okay. There are restaurants of every origin and ethnicity in the area. Did you know that there are approximately 1,850 restaurants along the Grand Strand? The prices vary as drastically as the menus, but the dress code remains “resort casual” wherever you choose to dine. Myrtle Beach doesn’t have much to offer in the way of historical attractions, but what it lacks historically it makes up for recreationally. From outlet malls to miniature golf courses, all can be found in close proximity. 1

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The South Carolina State Welcome Center is on U.S. 17 right at the state line near Little River. In addition to hundreds of brochures, maps, and discount coupons, knowledgeable staff is on site to answer any and all queries. For more information call 843-249-1111. The Grand Strand extends from Calabash, North Carolina, and Little River, South Carolina, area all the way to the Waccamaw Neck beaches and Georgetown area. This Grand Strand is further divided into three “ministrands”: North, Central, and South. North Strand includes Myrtle Beach, Little River, and North Myrtle Beach. The Central Strand also includes Myrtle Beach, Conway, and Surfside Beach. South Strand includes a chunk of Myrtle Beach, Murrells Inlet, Pawleys Island, Litchfield, and Georgetown. The following information was found on www.myrtle beachweather.com: the Grand Strand averages 215 days of sunshine. The average air temperature is 64˚F and the average ocean temperature is 66˚F.

AVERAGE MONTHLY TEMPERATURES (IN DEGREES FAHRENHEIT) Month

Average Air Temperature

January February March April May June July August September October November December

56 60 68 76 83 88 91 89 85 77 69 60

Average Ocean Temperature 51 51 56 66 71 78 83 80 77 72 60 50

Myrtle Beach Area | 3

FAST FACTS Fourteen million tourists come to Myrtle Beach every year. There is no true off season for this coastal community. Canadian “snowbirds” migrate to the area to leave behind their harsh winters. They stay at area campgrounds and resorts for as long as a month or two. Golfers enjoy the championship courses year round. People with vacation homes especially enjoy them in the fall and spring when tourism is not as significant as summertime. Anglers often return year after year to their favorite fishing spots and piers. Busloads of seniors are brought in by various tour operators for day trips. The same holds true for daytrips to factory outlet shops and legendary dinner theatre shows, such as those at the Medieval Palace and Alabama Theatre. As with most beach communities, Easter and spring break officially kick off the high season, which ends with Labor Day. September, October, and November are the low seasons and December, January, and February are the off seasons. However, with the growing number of permanent residents and all the aforementioned tourists, there really is no off season anymore. There are still a few restaurants and attractions closed in late January and February. Hurricane season (for the entire coast) runs from June 1 to November 30. Some vacationers opt to purchase trip interruption/cancellation insurance due to weather concerns.

TOURIST SEASON

Brookgreen Gardens contains over 9,000 acres of savannah, marshes, and beaches. Canopies of live oaks, formal gardens, sculpture gardens, and botanical gardens can be enjoyed. Its wildlife park includes foxes, otters, and alligators. There is also a bird sanctuary, raptor aviary, swamp, and picnic areas.

MOST POPULAR ATTRACTION

This is a close call between the walkway along Murrells Inlet and the walkway in Conway. Walking and bicycling “The Neck” is a popular pastime for tourists and residents alike. It is only partially completed, but when finished it will be a 27-mile scenic path extending from Murrells Inlet to Georgetown. Conway Historical Trail meanders along the waterfront and includes views of the town’s stately oak trees and picturesque buildings listed on National Register of Historic Places.

BEST VIEW

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MOST UNIQUE ANNUAL EVENT

Shag Fest. Each April and September, thousands of shaggers descend on North Myrtle Beach to shag and party. It is sponsored by the Society of Stranders and held at Ocean Drive, commonly called O.D. Shag originated on O.D., which is why the annual shag celebrations are held there. Shag is the official state dance of South Carolina, and is a cross between swing dancing and the jitterbug.

MOST IMPORTANT INDUSTRIES

Tourism. There is no question that tourism is the primary industry here. That is why there are thousands of shops, restaurants, and recreational activities.

MOST IMPORTANT HISTORICAL EVENT

F.G. Burroughs (Burroughs & Collins Co.) purchased and developed 80,000 acres of prime coastal land, extending from Little River to Murrells Inlet in the late 1800s. Burroughs’ vision shaped the development of this land. If he hadn’t bought so much land and developed it the way he did, Myrtle Beach might not exist today. It may have been a very different place instead of becoming the legendary “Grand Strand.”

Grand Strand Coastline.

Myrtle Beach Area | 5

ISLANDS & TOWNS 1. CONWAY History Conway was founded in 1733, making it one of the oldest communities in South Carolina. Thanks to the Waccamaw River, the port city grew throughout the 1700s and 1800s. By 1824, a courthouse was constructed. It was designed by Robert Mills, who was the same architect that designed the Washington Monument. The building still exists today but is used as city hall instead of a courthouse. Formerly known as Kinston in honor of England’s King George II, the name of the town was later changed to Conwayborough. This was to honor a Revolutionary Way hero, General Robert Conway, who was given a land grant by the state. Conway died in 1823 at the age of 70. By 1825, records indicate that Conwayborough (also written in early records as Conwayboro) had one hundred residents. The main exports were timber, rice, cotton, and tar. The name was shortened to Conway in 1883. It was incorporated in 1898 and today it is the county seat of Horry County. The first major employer, Conway Lumber Company, began operating in 1902. During its peak pro-

The Conway Water Tower, river wharf, and two Waccamaw line steamers, circa 1890.

6 | Coastal South Carolina

ducing years, it operated sixty hours a week and had four hundred employees. Waccamaw River Memorial Bridge opened in 1928. It is on the National Register of Historic Places and also serves as a memorial to Horry County residents who served in the American Revolutionary War, Civil War, and World Wars I and II. During the next decade or so, the town really flourished. The first hospital, Burroughs Hospital, opened. The post office began operating in 1935 and the Horry County Memorial Library was built circa 1949.

Jumping off the bridge into the river was a popular way to cool off during summer months. Photo circa 1930s.

Highway 501 opened in 1948. This was a big deal because it linked Conway to Myrtle Beach. Prior to this the only way to go from one town to the other was by using a one-lane bridge and later on, the Waccamaw River Memorial Bridge. Conway has managed to grow and expand, yet still maintain its “old town” charm. This is due in large part to the numerous historic edifices, the ancient oak trees, the scenic Waccamaw River, and controlled development. From Myrtle Beach or North Myrtle Beach, take Highway 501 to Conway. Or, get on the Highway 22 Bypass until it dead ends into Highway 501 about 7 miles outside of

Coastal South Carolina by Terrance Zepke

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