Care Of Guinea Pigs(up080708)

Care of Guinea Pigs This care sheets contains basic information for the care of guinea pigs. Please consult more detailed sources for additional information -- books, or your veterinarian. The guinea pig (or cavy) is a member of the rodent family with an average life span of 4 to 7 years. These sociable, somewhat skittish creatures are easy to care for, seldom bite and are exceptionally clean. Wild guinea pigs are a prey species and their domestic counterparts retain a desire to run for cover when startled or threatened and so it is necessary to provide a shelter in their cage where they can seek safety. Since they do not climb they are easy to contain in a habitat and are easily located should they run free. Guinea pigs must chew to wear down their constantly-growing front teeth, so you need to provide chew items such as apple, birch or willow branches, dried (whole grain) bread crusts, hay and/or firm vegetables such as carrots and broccoli stems. Guinea pigs are social animals, so it is best if they live in pairs. Usually sows (females) cohabit well as either siblings or mother-daughter pairs. Boars (males) will sometimes get along but they often do not unless raised together. Boars should not be placed with sows under any circumstances even for a short period. Please do not breed guinea pigs. It is more difficult than you might think to find good, long term homes for the offspring. It is possible to have guinea pigs neutered but there is some risk involved - consult a veterinarian specializing in small animals.

Housing The guinea pig habitat can be a simple arrangement with walls 30 cm. high, open on top and having a minimum floor area of 3,000 square cm (approx. 2ft by 2ft.). More space is needed for a pair of guinea pigs. The enclosure should be made of wood, plastic or metal with a solid floor and the bedding should be white wood shavings (not sawdust or cedar shavings). A nest box or house must also be provided. Change the wood shavings regularly to keep the cage clean, dry and healthy. Make your habitat larger if you have room. Place interesting items such as small cardboard or wooden boxes or tubes for your guinea pig to dart into. Keep your guinea pigs in a dry area protected from cold drafts and direct sunlight. Guinea pigs cannot tolerate excessive heat. Guinea pigs prefer living in temperatures in

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the same 18-25 C (65-75 F) range people do. Guinea pigs require exercise and will happily romp around a room that has been cleared of hazards such as electric cords, cats or dogs and poisonous plants. Click here to learn how to build an inexpensive guinea pig habitat.

Food and Water Guinea pigs are herbivores, meaning they eat only grasses, vegetables and fruit. Provide twice daily an assortment of foods (4 or 5 types) such as carrots, peas, apples, green peppers, spinach, kale, pears, dandelion leaves, clover, plantain, cucumbers, corn, celery, melons, oranges, beet tops and parsley. Food preferences vary from guinea pig to guinea pig. Also, guinea pigs tend to become habituated to certain foods from a young age so provide a variety of foods and continue over time to reintroduce foods previously ignored. Do not feed lettuce, cabbage, beans, potatoes, rhubarb or chocolate to guinea pigs (or rabbits), the latter three can be toxic. Your guinea pig's basic diet should also be supplemented with pelleted commercial feed. Fresh pellets are vital to guinea pigs as they are enriched with vitamin C which guinea pigs (like humans) cannot synthesize. Purchase fresh pellets in small quantities, never keeping pellets on hand for more than a month. Place the food in heavy plastic or ceramic bowls that won't easily tip, one bowl for pellets and one for fresh food. Plastic sipper bottles are best for water. Be sure the nipple is low enough for the smallest guinea pig to reach. Change water daily, and weekly clean and disinfect water bottle and food dishes. Hay is also important for your guinea pig, adding fibre to the diet. Hay should be fed daily and in abundance. Compressed bales of hay can be purchased at pet stores or purchased directly from farmers or from country feed stores. If your guinea pig is not fed enough fruits or vegetables or if the pellets are not fresh, he or she may become deficient in Vitamin C. Vitamin C may be added to your guinea pig’s diet through the water. Dissolve 200 mg of Vitamin C per litre of drinking water in your pet's bottle (this should not be necessary if you are feeding plenty of fresh foods).

Handling Always use two hands to pick up your guinea pig. Be sure one hand supports the rump and hind legs. Guinea pigs like to be cuddled but must be handled gently and carefully. A nervous guinea pig may jump from your grasp, a common cause of broken legs and backs. Hold your guinea pig while you are sitting down, preferably on the floor, so that the animal will not be injured if he or she does fall. Support your guinea pig with a towel on your lap - guinea pigs sometimes have "accidents." Do not allow your guinea pig to walk around on table tops or couches because guinea pigs will most certainly wander too close to the edge and fall.

Grooming/Nail Trimming Long haired breeds should be brushed regularly with a soft brush. Baths can be given to guinea pigs. Line a sink with a towel or rag and bathe your guinea pig in a sink half full of lukewarm water. Use a mild pet shampoo only (do not use soaps or shampoos designed for people). Rinse thoroughly, and dry with a towel. A hair dryer set to a warm setting can also be used. Nails need to be trimmed about every six weeks or as necessary. Consult a vet or knowledgeable person for instructions if hesitant. Care must be taken to avoid cutting the blood vessel in the centre of the nail. In good light this vessel is clearly visible. If accidentally severed use a product called "Quick-Stop" (available at pet stores) to stop the bleeding.

Medical Problems Guinea pigs are susceptible to respiratory viruses and catching one could be fatal. Your veterinarian should be consulted if you notice diarrhea, difficulty in breathing, hair loss, excessive water drinking, lack of activity or appetite or anything else you think is unusual. Injuries due to falls or other accidents should be treated by a veterinarian immediately. (Also, see chart below.)

For More Information This brochure is meant to provide minimum care guidelines for guinea pigs. Learn more about guinea pigs by consulting your veterinarian and/or one of the many care books for guinea pigs available at book stores, pet stores or your public library. Look for ones that describe nutrition, health issues, nail clipping and guinea pig behaviour.. Guinea Pig Health Chart:

SYMPTOM

POSSIBLE CAUSE (CURED AT HOME)

MORE SERIOUS CAUSE (CONSULT VETERINARIAN)

Listless

Boredom (add more items to habitat; more attention to animal)

Possible infection

Doesn't Eat

Environment too cold and/or damp; draft; overheating; not enough to gnaw

Teeth are too long or possible malocclusion (upper and lower teeth meet improperly when chewing).

Drooling

Not enough to gnaw

Teeth too long or a malocclusion

Diarrhea

Eating large amount of foods high in water (i.e., iceberg lettuce, cucumber); not enough hay; environment too cool or damp

Bacterial infection

Sneezing or throat rumbling

Draft; temperatures too hot or too cold

Viral or bacterial infection

Rapid breathing

Panting due to high heat, shock, fear, or stress

Heat stroke

Excessive scratching

Unclean maintenance; poor grooming; fleas or mites

Parasites (fleas or mites); skin fungus; skin inflammation

Slight bleeding

Minor wound or scratch from fighting with rival; sharp object in habitat

Clean minor wounds with antiseptic; for severe cut see veterinarian

Bare spots in fur

Poor diet (more fruits and vegetables)

Deficiency disease (Vitamin C deficiency); fungal skin disease

Sore on foot pad

Housing with wire bottom; fecal soiling of cage bottom (cleanliness)

Abscess on ball of foot

Building A Better Habitat A single guinea pig or small rabbit can manage in a cage 60cm long x 40cm wide with plenty of out-of-cage exercise. This is a standard sized cage sold in most pet supply stores. However, your guinea pig or rabbit would prefer a larger area to move around in and explore, a place to exercise and feel protected — a habitat. Building a habitat for your guinea pig or rabbit can be fun and is not difficult. The step by step design we feature here takes about an hour to make and uses plastic sign board (it looks like corrugated cardboard but is made of plastic). You can buy a 4 foot by 8 foot sheet from a sign shop, building supply store or plastics store for between $12 and $18. From the flat sheet you will be cutting the sheet to size (see step 1), then scoring and folding the plastic (see step 2) to create a waterproof box. Your finished box will be 2x5 ft and be 3 times the area of the small 60cm by 40cm cage – the perfect size for one or two guinea pigs or a small rabbit (Note: For a rabbit you may find that higher sides work better). Sides that are 12 inches high (30 cm) will contain a guinea pig, as these animals do not jump or climb. In fact, most guinea pigs will be very content in a habitat of this size, preferring to stay inside it rather than try to escape, providing their new enclosure is in a safe quiet location and is made comfortable with a nesting box and some tubes to crawl through. To make the guinea pig’s enclosure safer it is a good idea to purchase a piece of 1 inch square wire mesh called “hardware cloth” from a building supply or farm supply store to put on top of the enclosure (you can also use special rabbit cage wire). Using wire cutters cut the wire to fit about an inch larger than the enclosure. Bend the edges down to make a lid. Twist-ties or pipe-cleaners can secure it to the top of the enclosure by piercing small holes along the top or the box (this is particularly important with rabbits). This will also protect your guinea pig from cats, dogs or other intruders. For a rabbit enclosure you must use the wire mesh to keep your rabbit from simply hopping out. You may also want to add more height to the rabbit’s enclosure so there is more room for him to hop. Add approximately 1-2 inches (3-5cm) of white wood shavings. Put the food dish and vegetable dish in one corner and mount the water bottle close to a corner by piercing a small hole in the side of the exercise area and using a pipe cleaner to secure it (see Step 4). (Hint: For more stability you could use one of the cut out pieces of corroplast for added backing.) Mount the mineral lick in a similar fashion. Add a wooden or cardboard house, some hay and some fruit wood branches for chewing. Place your new habitat in a quiet area away from drafts and direct sunlight. Your guinea pig or rabbit will enjoy being in this larger area. Guinea pigs can usually be kept in the enclosure at all times. Rabbits will still need some daily exercise outside of the enclosure. Add interesting items to the habitat such as large diameter poster tubes or small cardboard boxes with guinea pig doors cut out of the sides. Some people use large diameter plastic plumbing pipes. Avoid objects like metal cans that might have sharp edges or small tunnels that your guinea pig or rabbit might get stuck in. Some guinea pigs and rabbits enjoy ripping apart brown paper bags or jumping over a small log. Be creative but only introduce safe, sensible items to your animal. Avoid objects that might give off harmful fumes (like carpets) or poisonous items

(like treated woods), and any that have paints or dyes the animal might ingest. Stick to items that are natural such as wool, unbleached cardboard, or wood. By keeping your animal’s physical and psychological needs in mind, you will create a habitat that is safe and enjoyable for your animal.

Step by Step Tools/Materials/Cost 1 sheet corrugated plastic $18.00 1 length of 1 inch wire mesh $7.00 Roll of 2 inch masking or packing tape Exacto or Utility knife Tape measure Square or straight edge Wire cutters Pipe-cleaners/Twist-ties Total $25.00 Step 1: Cut 1 foot off the length of the full sheet to make a 4x7 sheet.Mark out lines 12 inches (30 cm) from each edge. The 12 inch corner squares need to be cut out of the sheet.

Step 2: Score the plastic with a knife (being careful to only pierce one layer of the corrugated plastic) along the lines that make up the sides.

Step 3: Fold up each of the sides to create the box. Secure the end joints together with masking tape or packing tape from the outside (not the inside – guinea pigs will chew anything). Your waterproof box is complete.

Step 4: Add approximately 1-2 inches (3-5cm) of white wood shavings. Put the food dish and vegetable dish in one corner and mount the water bottle close to a corner by piercing a small hole in the side of the exercise area and using a pipe cleaner to secure it .

Step 5: Mount the mineral lick in a similar fashion. Add a wooden or cardboard house, some hay and some fruit wood branches for chewing.