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I had.linbcd 6,.100 nrdrcs,.over.d si2krn ldwxsst l2skm shortof Ihe60okmlarg.t. I N$ surcI.ould One.fthepr.bleN I hld on my rideNrs tlut rllthe hotelsin whr.h I stqtd.harged nr brerkrin so I i{onld hale nr lerk rheh.tek Irter in ordei ro be $l-" h ert nv breiktu!. lhissL.tted ne r.om lealingern! {hi.l.,in ne dearlt 1ntermsofharingnr rideLre inh thc nignt to x.hiert m,vtrgd flr On anolherdar I Nas.Kling alongta$ing all theselitde pla.es and rhsewsnowhere ro lind Narc. I $as lhnslr nnd hot inAigr.nont.I couldnt rakeir anrmorc.As I hca.d i noise,l.sk loudlliilhac\as r shoPnearbl r lovelyold ladr and dn old guyboked dr me rr),irgr,i m*.then mindsupnlDt I kas doing.I told thcm I ivrsdornSth( br$rto \\hcn I lookcdat hn ia.. hc h.d x spa* in his.]ts. H. srdl 'OhAudaxlh! Fren.h:So I repled: 'Ycs, ,v.sbtrtI'm tfom lnghnd. oi I don'tknow hr d tr&L living r EnglmdlI m alwalsc.ntused whcnpcoplcaskm. wh.rc I m tr.nl Thehell I don'tkno$r]\nd therert .rnrdi so r.u.\.le trllthe wd riom krael? l \ondered ial $.!ld hire
up or th. bik. rnd pushidghrrd I suddcnlrh.rrd a loud noLse.f the.h.in br.al.ng.I lookedat rhe chaina.d look.d rt th.bik.; I drdnt Rrllvkn.s trharlodo:r\t the top ofthe hill I \r$ r houseind \valked nry bikerheretrirh rhechainin nrrh d I ieededaslreq dnve. rnavber lrln ol plie6 I kno.ked on thedo.i r Fren.hguylookedat me ruspiciousllI shortdhinr thc rhain and ridd aith bod,vlangu.ge to.xplain hin hhdr I neededA little whil.l.tcr h. r.alis.d he \3s not gorngto 5e. thc ba.koinre.lle *enl backrn,8ot nro s.r.wdrnrrs and! p.n ol pli.b. I had mysurgi.J gLokson so pushingandhr'isringI nranaged to put thc.hxin toScthcr onlvtorealiseltwouldr.ftr nar on. ^ thoughtc.nr.to nrYnnd: l ndedr ne\Lpinl I hadgon€through mr brg thr.wng rhinSs.n rheioor scrr.hingior rhis par !nd rheie i t \ a s l I p i . k d u p n r y m u l rtl o o l and now I r.alisedlddnineedr s.r.\driver \tr,v quickl\tI hgu.ed out hoNtoe\tra.t theoU pnr dnd hl thc.ex one lit wI m) li.st rihe lixrnga.hain). lle lo.ked at me Knh amus.m.nl bc.aus.l wasnlkrn8 all the\enoisesin Engnsh.Soonahc.l t.ok.liandnenr on mr war lrom thereonI kro( il\€rveasv
Trying to rely on my GPSprovedlruitlesssoI kqt sloppingpeopleaskingthemfor directions torell hi,n nvlifd no4 Bv rhetine I \rassittnrgrs (;ues.l H.n.ur in thctr krl.hcn,dfnrkingrn jc. .old coke,l hadplentr oftinc to cxplarn lo nrv.omplexrlentit,vlothem 1l{ the okl nmn.whosenamc$as serge!.!doin, pulledout allthc old nsvspapdsshowlnsnr that he wtu vcrylanous in luiucl1992. I warntqutcsurc I mdc6to.d c\crlrhnrg conc.ll,rasthcrcsrs l langnaSe barrier Hednl Alpe d'Hu.z 1:lliner non nop in 2.1hou6 Hil bod\ undetue.r nr6d tcs( nrsee h.w itreaded t the efecrsoarhe fide I underslo.dhelse.l tobe handictrpped belorethis Soller a. hour oichlring, dri.king and resrinBlhadlo sa,vml goodb),es. l1{!s !uile energi5inB, sitlingand talki.S to theser{o 6\esand I aclt Ch rbir,v,xl 390kmhrsncxl on nryhst,r'ith 10,193nr.trcs.hmb on Srtufdarl6th Augd. lhc hills md thc nrountint stxdedto caN. harc..I fclt i wasgcttingst.oDger soI.y.lcd up thchills st dnrgup. Howcrcr,that Farti.dar hill was lery necp,a hard.linb up andthcrc irsaverl iastri.ledolvnand then up dd up aganrs.b.rn tobed \{n ner,Fui l.yrl slaie,nrnding
wirh rhebike I knew I neededio repla.ethe .h!in and r .a\erte a\ soonaspossrblc. l atrned rt (:ol de lllt. CenFal l0:30.nr onSundrr rilh Augusrtotal.Imb l:.500nr rnd I had.overcdL,0l6knr.Ir{as br.k on tn.k. the knr.ount so,ng wdl, the ncatherxns bcautililand *d the d,nrb itrlirasnt thathrd. As I arnd onto th.ltalian sde.l hel a longJollrlridc downh lbr {tuireawhilebui then. ne} problcnr strted Heredd lhereI.ould nol hrd dresignpostsliving to.elv on my (iPS pi.ved liuitle\s$ I keprstoppingpe.tle askinglhem nr dtre.rions lher {ere ver,rnice, alwryssmiling,riLing quenion ind tving ki helpme asnuch as t h e l . o u l d l l e l r 3 b i rn o r e a th o m € in ltalli therewN r goodene.gr tlosrngtfom rh. people. Tortona: Itond.y l3th Augusr rl:10 am (ot.l.limb 14,rum. I managedto lind a bi.ltlc shoFwilh a niceItaliangrg: th. shopsas .lread.rdosd br lun.h. bur alier shorvinghim mI brcrcl.ard, h. pDl th. bikeon lhc st.nd with i sDile on his fa.e.Likeanagician rrh no tind t. str.e, he replacedtbe chain .asdte, adjNredlhegeld Md elen trucd the tfod wheel lt\ra r€d
tlrill rrl.h,ng hin \itu kno*a Boodr(orkerrfh€n \ou sceone.I hadloBoba.L h mr dnhn.e deli.il lhdr &r I lrrired al rheholelil round hidni8hl i rra(ed mu.h h.'e geflingl$t aDdlhcn I.onldn't eet up h rht nd.ning I rhen d..id.d I shouldrelr on tleGl,s asl *ast€d too mu.h lrnrcasturg Fople,orlhe right dncdrons.Alicr namFingmr bre\cl.ard in Tonona, I pul mI ne\t destrnation on thc GPS Castellr\rquato.Thc GPSshoFcd nre 122\nr.I chc.kedlhc rotrtc lh€etand il shoEd llokm loYclrl I didnr nind rnlingan extn llo so rharI .onld foll.\r the CPSnnil I \as ridirg rlorS up anddo$n I Nasus.d lo this bt now but lhen I start.d to go up a up Froni 100.r lo l[loonr nrr. ric lokl! Allx and nrr darlinSCPSNanledro m*e me .rossthcm.Thes.'nountalnsNer. mu.h hirdrr to .limb tld the aol d u \ l t . C c n n . l rs t s n e . p a l l t l e
{a_Yup. On the waydown, I lrct c,v.1ist, Marzelo.I aslcd hinr rfrt was necessar,! lo .ro$ thc AlPsto gct to caslellArquato.rlis answcrwas a sinplc no: \t mdc togcthertill CastellArqualo. Hc otired nrea bed lherebui I{anted to qdc a bitnrorc ro.o!er Lhe200tn dehijusl lo be on ihe saleside.Iuanderedlhrough lhis bcautiiulpr.iuresquecrN t*ing photos.I mustsxr thk ridetook beaubtnlaf.nnectur., lovel,vlitlle roadsbur the presurero .on,deLe nr lrsk sloppedme liom errolinS thc lranquilllt,vof ltrc pla.cs.llr. .loct {asliclii.B$ I leli m,vliicnd ard helded txardi Sal!,.rag8ime lefiD, lhn uas d beaulilulliltle sfr lo\i, m! Lind of tldce 10$ak ]ourselainthe h.l sFinS sarer, hale vourb.dt s.rubbed$i(h sall Dd 'n!d,.o.L toursellin rhesauna ind thci the llnal louch,haveanice slron8poNerluldlssdgero clelnse
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I lNolered r rc\v \rJf.t 'ni.rting into Lnlorhe(;PSrid nos I ful elerr \e(rd \ilLg. tronr th. drc nreet lr \LtrttrkDg J b( ol c\rrr rtrn. hut dt lcnn I kn.\ I \r\ nor g.n'S to In BolognnI nopted l.rlun.h h this poshtnnlll re{Ju.rnr lt l.h r b n l i h i n T h . C o d r r r h en au l . 'll.r. hrs r gur silringon hn orrn .Fing cv.r,r \aman rhrr tasied hlnr hom top tobor!,m Fr..r lmc ro time,the\vrir.s\.rnrc ro.h.t k' hin som.thingabouthinr relrI'Lr c\ er,vbodvslro\d hrnrrespelr I reilvwrntcd to trke J pi.ture.ahin) blt som.holr I thoughlrhi\ nrrvnot h r v . b . . n a v e r r g o o di d e r i I i u n striedar hin. rvrng to rSurdour 'f it wisrll nrrinrgintrtion or ryherh.i thei. wrs \om.thL.8 rhcrd SanM.nno on htdnesd.y 20th, ll:t5rm 1,673kn.th.. getringusedro thc ttat ro.d \{u ger a 5h..1nom th. n.cp.linrb or $i \llrino lh. sun.ookirrgvou. htrd, rhemou.uid killirg roor lineei, rt w$ ! deseftlik..Ltv \rith r \rnll suroundn\g it I rooksomepholo\ n.d wr\ oll tr th. n.\t nounhin Thrt $rs or. ot th. hJrd.n dr\\ 'lh.rc !r$ rJteep!l'nb up tnd a stc.pdrop do\vn ft s$ tr lorg rnd rgontringdJl Nor trr rronr.\n.onn, I nrnaged ro gdtlostJrd up onb i t.bt rorl The .rrs $er. llr nrg p.st alllhe (i\nx tfom rour bol\r Oh m . : n d I G l rr b n n n r n i d r . d . I r h a l { o u l db . n i . . L I r r r c d l h e r e .oula n'. r gu,vard r gtrl.nnsng il aroundNfn, book.n r holelind th. ro.!l i I notped n.rr toth.nr then $1ic. it .rm. to rhc .run.h: rnd !\lcd them how l.ouki len\e d\e.,vr|lIrgxas.losed DonI Lose rhisdr.ddlirl rorn.lt reLrquire tropc,tomof o!!'rtrimg.am drng.rou\ 50ther\hosed . rrh.R lou.an hJ!e ir rlll Brt I had nrl thcr.nme tiom lldv ldrk.d ar me dcli.rtJ.F\ er,viMnlng I hrl tr Nor.l.nng hotr I (iulduk. n$ ncx on.. Br,lci hedrr.d.l lch th^ bLk o\rfth. fen.cdd rhrorgh rh. pi.tLnenluefL.. ro.ortiNre nrr Lrittl!.of rhe r)rd\ Jrd thc mountnrr. burh.s.But then ll,rh'reh'voung Lrdvtol.1her bovli'en,l (, h.Lpme l9th Atrgusl Sa$uolo:Ta€sda-v nr l.[nrb.d o\!r the Gi.eud h. l,.l94km, I 6,200m.hnb. At lPnr
hr.dcd D. or.r the brl,ernd h. drd.nt.d !onklhrng shiLh n)undcd l1|i| \rnd.rlhe run.€l "o I ldrkcd Thdrc\,( r df roadgo,.g ird! u r , t e r 1 l , e | r i d g . l l h al ol k h k el r u n r d lb c D d t h c nl h . , . a d e n d d d$ r h r sn c g l c . l & l h o ! \ cv. , l ,lgurd,ln \r.uld bc posrblero of.i lhe glrd,nd Sorlnoughlhe ba.l grreInrdrh.dii road and Boln \our uNlell As I rrasgoingth(,u8rr r h e b r k ! r t . l l o u n dn r ) \ e l l i nr rurllo\rcr icll I {Jned $rlkmg pushnrglhe rill {dls oisunlld{.h ind seJr.hingl.r r prtn. As I $.lle,t d.eFr inh rlie n.ld I orldnl lind an\ IJlrl\ I rhougbtnurbe I shouldA, b rh..dgc oirhe rield but Jll thrr. \rs rhcrcNerespilv bush€\ Sl{^\l\.Jr I \ lk.d thiougl, r r|.ughr .rnrc lhrongh lhcll€1,1. nn d \ . h r t i l I g o l b i r r € n l . r\ erak ? '\.reNtr\ ai(n.n.ol th. p r o g n D m e s o nl v p o f p . d o u l . I dc.idedI \hould Drlte r l.t ofnoi\e, so rhrl lhe lnrkd r.uld ktoN thil I rfar th.re I .oul,h r mlkc up n) Dnnd\fhrl uar \$^r benrEon Ihij l J n r o a d o r r nr h n l l e l dA h c r a n hour I qur.ll\ chc.ledhoN nN.h \r.tcranJ nn)d I hxd. run nr.as. I \a\ ntr&'dro sp..d a right in rh. n.]d. lr \fasgellingdrrl Dd I .raMgcd b gerorflhe \unrlow.r li.ld lr \rasio goodnrndnr8on a . l . r i g r o u d . l \ r J r o nr d d n r a d I \rs pr$rng horse\in,l rlc\ .iadc rll th.rc ncrrou: roise\ rid rlr. d o s s\ . c n l . n z \ I \ r r s l f a f , n A d r a l non. or thenr\rouldN.tlo.n'. In. din nrJ cid.d m honr oii rN,i n,rre gric I \rtrsD i la.Dc,\ l)r.l rrd l.orld crnl\ s.rle 1ln\SJr. bur rh. L1.\.lc Nith ill lhe lu88rir. (r! rn.rh.r no.\r Thedog\ \'.r. b r r k n r 8 m r da n dI k n e $ l 1 l l d l . a r t l J n .i o l . l i m b d o r e r r h c l i D . . rnd. hdg$glIoD mrlu.rn'\ .n dr. 8Ie. r r.N D\ trng Jm dorn t.ros tlr. garciu( lo r$.h rlie bf oflhc br.\.le \rhild.n l.'8srL.rc dargh.B r n r h er n r \ r . o u n d r { e r g h l . 1 1 , { , r i big $,ing, gor.rv l!'gsdoN. ind th. bile \$\ hda\rar up. I slill had t o n r u ( q l e t , 8 d n o r c r t h . g a l eb u l lhcn I \ris\f!lkinE.nlhis grar.l rord sudd€nl\rhd GI's.aDc ilrre and he roudrrord. At l.6t I \-i\ b i . I o n r r r r l J n d r l r t r l c \ f h , l eh r c ' I rri,\ed rt Ara.ona rer\ Lirerr niqIL \onrehres I rcillYlhlnt rh*e n nn.'bod\ lh.R \rilchnrg or.r nrc, a r b c o n c l q I \ i l l l n n r u no u i o r Ir rh.nrorDrnS,on rrc nad olt 0aAnaioni.ron run oltr '_.ur.vcs x n dh r \ c l o . l n n b i ; 0 n r I - J t e r o ni .t g o ra b i l l a l r e r i n d r h . . N . r c l o l \ o l shon rnJ ne?piliDbs$_You lrnnh o n cr i d n r . n t h c r . n i n o r h d r . n e n \2sr\.r\ ha rnlelolefuDn,
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h Jellrsrf!nnlliJi h!d bee. t i r h D r . a . h .I h i ( l c o v d , e d . l , 2 8 8 k m !r larard m,r \Pnil\ $er. hlgh I adv.Lla dr\ Llrr rl Albcrob.lo a ! n { u e l i r l l cl d i r w n h n r a n g e l o o k i n g h o u " elst o o k s o D ep h o l o \ \ i n d . i . r i e J o n n r l l r i r s i . I lL r a a !.r,vc.r,v.ide wrh jun a l.$ inill h r l l si . { 1 1 h er e r lw r s I l a t . la r r v e l i r r! r n l i s l i n 1 l , er h . n u r r I h i ( l omtl.lel mr Ir.\ei $ ll !a,vsand l i r h o u Ar n d r f . n n o u r s l i l e r I $ai on rh. tirr to Pel,r ir (ir.ec.. l I J d i g o o dl i n . e . , D r l r eb . a l . I | d b o o k c li . r b i r l r w $ i I a r g . $Jklrgupmlhe )miis lt lalt 8 o . d r o l t o l . e p i . e l do . r h . I m . o u n i o n t h eo l l , e r| r . d t h . d.r+irc* d.r.errled rid il srs r ll drdni b,t oia sho.llo nr\ \){c trLcldrgLr mc k) 8.t or.rn rnd I narted!,drio) r rcrl Flind tup nB h , ) l i d r vn i C r c c . cb u tl h a r s , , u l d b e r1,rdorh.rriD. t