Booknewest 7-23-08

“The Gift of the River” The Role of Creeks, Streams & Rivers in Shaping Elk County

Authors Kim Lanich Elk County Conservation District Mark Lang Elk County Conservation District Andy McAllister Western PA Conservancy for Abandoned Mine Reclamation Artwork by: John Sidelinger and Nelson Haas Photos submitted by: Kim Lanich, Eric Patton…….????

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Contents Forward/Acknowledgments………………………………………………………………………………….v Map of County Watersheds............................................................................................................................vii 1. Introduction to Elk County………………………………………………………………………………1 2. Industry and Economic development in Elk County…………………………………………………….4 3. Area population growth due to jobs from industries……………...……………………...…………..8 4. Local Historical Impacts of the industries…….…………………………………...……………..…...12 5. Current status of industries in the county / still active operations……………..…………………...…18 -statement from someone official??? 6. Current conditions / status of water / land resources……………………..…..…………………….....24 7. Local Watershed Group and current project........................................................….………………….36 8. Hope for the future what things could be like with the help of everyone................................................40 References…………………………………………………………………………………………………...48 Acknowledgments (beginning or back cover?) This project was funded by grants from the Department of Environmental Protection Environmental Education Grant and a____ Title III grant. Have simple Elk County map somewhere here • Include townships, major rts. & waterways Introduction to Elk County • The Kittanning trail Prior to European settlement, almost all of the land in Pennsylvania was wooded. This was, and is, a very important feature for healthy ecosystems, streams, and species that can only survive in the ideal aquatic habitat. This will be explained further in the book chapter 6. With the Eastern Continual Divide running north/south through Elk County, many headwaters begin in Elk County. This is a significant feature that we should all understand. Precipitation that lands east of the continental divide drains to the Atlantic Ocean and precipitation falling west of the divide makes its way to the Gulf of Mexico. The divide creates the headwater creeks and streams that confluence to become rivers. How we treat the land surrounding these streams (watersheds) determines the water quality when it arrives downstream. Basically, whatever we do in the headwater watershed, will impact everything.??? This book will attempt to explain the history of events in Elk County that have our creeks, streams, and rivers in the condition they are in today. A. Historical Facts In the early 1600’s, Native American peoples are documented living in the great river valleys of what is now Pennsylvania. Historical evidence shows that at one time the Susquehannock Indians commanded a large part of the Susquehanna River drainage area both the North and West Branches (eastern Elk County). The Susquehannocks migrated to this section of the state, traveling northwest up the Susquehanna River into its headwaters, which border the Eastern Continental Divide. The Seneca Indians also utilized the area, as they are one of the Six Nations making up the Iroquois Nation from the Lake Ontario to southern New York area. They moved southward living off of the land and using the resources in and along the rivers long before the white man came to Elk County. Many Native Americans used canoes to travel the Clarion River, the Bennett Branch, and many other creeks, streams, and rivers in Elk County before European settlement. In 1684, the Duke of York, later to become King of England, granted William Penn the area that is known as Pennsylvania, in payment for a $200,000 debt owed to William Penn’s father. Penn’s main reason for wanting this new land was to create a refuge for the Quakers (as Penn was a Quaker) who were under persecution in their homelands in England. In these new American colonies, laws were to be established to

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provide freedom of religious worship. These new laws actually set the stage for Pennsylvania to become a place for those who wished to be free of religious persecution. In the early 1700’s, Shawnee and other Native American tribes were known to use eastern & central Pennsylvania for hunting grounds, but were pushed westward by growth of the agricultural settlement. Trappers, hunters, and traders also heard of the abundance of wildlife and quickly moved in on the land. Disputes about who had rights to the land lead to much fighting, and eventually the French and Indian War was fought in North America from 1754 to 1763, with the Indians joining the French to fight against the English. Attacks were lead by all parties involved in the effort to gain rights to the land. Penn later began dividing Pennsylvania into counties, and in 1706 Penn returned to England, with his sons staying in Pennsylvania to become the proprietors. From 1732-1792, the Commonwealth of PA was experiencing boundary disputes. In 1763 Penn’s grandson became Governor of Pennsylvania and waged an active war against the Indians, offering bounties whether captured dead or alive.

With the relocation of native peoples, colonies were established and territories claimed. William Penn contended that his charter gave him no right to take land away from the Indians, and while mention is made of purchases, no records exist of actual transactions. A treaty was made at Fort Stanwix in 1784 between the Commissioners of the State of Pennsylvania and the Six Iroquois Nations, which relinquished all of their remaining land in Pennsylvania. A second treaty was made a few months later in 1785 between the Commissioner at Fort Macintosh (now Beaver County), and the Wyandotte and Delaware Indians who at that time occupied a large area west of the Allegheny River. The County of Elk was included within the boundaries of this great northwest purchase. It is said that the Indians received $10,000 cash for this purchase. Evidence of Native American tribes has been found in many areas of Elk County including Highland, Jones, Millstone & Spring Creek Townships, and ruins are also found in Bennetts Valley. Arrowheads and other artifacts can still be found by the trained eye in many areas of the County. The old “Kittanning Indian Trail” was used by Iroquois and others. This trail runs through western Elk County, and was the most direct route from southern New York to Kittanning. This trail was later used by travelers (settlers), and is also believed to have been a military road that was used to lead expeditions against the Native Americans of the northwest.

Picture or drawing

A lifetime resident of Elk County, Jerry Bonfardine recollects his grandfather Hartman telling him about the Susquehannock Indians. The Susquehannock tribe had their summer camp in what is now known as Benezette. Grandpa Hartman said the Susquehannocks would travel up the Susquehanna River from their winter location in Harrisburg, up the West Branch Susquehanna, the Sinnemahoning Creek, and Bennett Branch, finally reaching their summer destination at the mouth of Trout Run. The Susquehannocks would then travel on foot, north up Trout Run. They would cross over the Eastern Continental Divide, and would continue their journey traveling northwest to get to the Warren area and the Allegheny River, where they could catch large fish that they would dry and take back home to their families. Jerry recollects the fish they were after were pike and muskellunge. There is a rock in a small-unnamed tributary near Benezette where the Indians would grind corn

1787-1810 – It is uncertain an exact date of when the first pioneers arrived in the Elk County area, but according to “A History of Elk County” around 1787, John Bennett and his father traveled up the Susquehanna River and the Bennett Branch to hunt beaver, to the point now known as Caledonia in Jay Township. It is almost certain that Bennetts Valley was named after them or by them. Around the year 1798, a General Wade and his family, and a lieutenant Slade, moved to the lower Little Toby watershed (located in southern Elk County). It has been said that they came into the area to chase out the remaining indigenous population. A confrontation was reported in the Little Toby Creek watershed. The natives were quickly overcome and said to have moved out of the area. Around 1803, General Wade and his family built

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a log house at the mouth of Little Toby. In 1810, Amos Davis settled in what is now Fox Township, and is considered to be the first permanent settler in Elk County. A General “Mad” Anthony Wayne also was said to commanded expeditions against the native people of the northwest, to “remove the danger to settlement”. 1843 – On April 18, 1843, Elk County was formed from parts of Jefferson, Clearfield and McKean Counties. . Put old map of Elk Co here B. Natural Resources Just a few years prior to the beginning of the 19th century, Elk County was a vast wilderness covered by forests inhabited by many native animal species free to roam as they please. Because of its many forests and streams, Elk County was known as “The Outdoor Paradise”. Native brook trout thrived, deer, wild turkey, black bear and of course elk, roamed fearlessly throughout the County. The land that sustained the wildlife was worth more than anyone could have imagined. Within the 832 square miles of the County, the Eastern Continental Divide separates two major drainage basins, the Susquehanna and the Ohio. This distinctive topographic feature means many different things, but predominantly; water drains in two different directions, to the east to the Chesapeake Bay, and to the west to the Gulf of Mexico. This also means there are a large number of headwater streams here in Elk County. Add more text about Elk County geology, etc. here Before the time of the white mans arrival (late 1700’s) Susquehanna is a Native American I. Forests & forestry resources name that’s meaning is debated. It is • Map of forested area of pa or Elk Co prior to white man thought to mean the following: “the • Facts about amt/acreage of forest in Elk County place of the stony lick” “the long reach river” and “lone crooked • Lumbering book river.” The interpretation of the II. Watersheds & water resources Susquehanna River is the “Great • Maps Island River” III. Coal & & other fuels resources IV. Wild lands wildlife & aquatic habitat • Historic game lands – pg 87 Elk Co History book • Wild elk herd once thriving, then decimated, relocated from Rockies, new herd survives pg 3 • Pg 303 Elk Co History book

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Industry and Economic development in Elk County After the arrival of the white man

Early settlers were drawn to Elk County because of it vast supply of virtually untouched natural resources. The Native American peoples who inhabited and passed through the area only took the resources they needed to survive, leaving the area as it was prior to their presence. As the settlers began to establish themselves, food of course was a one of the necessities. Therefore, the first industry established in Elk County was a grist mill. A grist mill is a mill where grains are ground into flour. Somewhere around 1810, William Kersey traveled to and settled in Little Toby Creek and Elk Creek in what is now known as Fox Township. Here he erected a grist mill which was only in operation for two or three years before it burned down. Mr. Kersey did not rebuild the mill and folks had to travel forty miles to a mill on Anderson Creek. In 1818, L. Morey built a grist mill in what is now known as Benezette, near the mouth of Trout Run. And in 1822, James Gillis was running a grist mill, a saw mill and a carding mill in the Montmorency farm area. (A carding mill prepares fibers that will later be spun.) As the area began to populate and surveyors were investigating the area, the mighty gigantic white pines were noticed. This is a very important turning point in the population growth and land use of Elk

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County. Soon began the “logging rush” of Elk County. Those who “discovered” the exceptional trees saw dollar signs and Elk County has never fully recuperated from those seeking to exploit the wealth of the quality and quantity of natural resources here in the County. From the Europeans discovery of the abundance of beaver and other fur bearing species in this area, to the still active coal mining and logging practices, Elk County is still producing resources needed for human consumption. The abstraction of coal has had the most detrimental effect, with water quality and related aquatic species being the most harmed. LOGGING In these early days of Elk County, lumbering became the king of industries. Elk County was blessed with an abundance of virgin forests of large white pine and hemlock and other valuable timber such as black cherry and oak. The white pine began the “gold rush” of the lumbering in Elk County. Small sawmills were popping up all over the county, especially near streams and rivers, for transportation of the cut timber. Great pine mills had sprung up across Elk County, followed by the hemlock days. Lumber made Elk County a popular destination for men seeking employment, thus drawing many immigrants and pioneers to the area. As the logging industry exponentially grew, by 1849 rafting and floating logs became a real business. Scattered across the county, many mills, mainly lumber, were being built on the waterways of the county. The Clarion River was the main shipping route to Pittsburgh and points south. On the other side of the eastern Continental Divide, the Bennett Branch and many of its tributaries carried timber to Williamsport and places further downstream.

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The logging industry created other industries that fashioned the newly forming communities. The streams & rivers were the lifeblood of the businesses and communities. From logging, many new businesses were created. Saw mills were one of the first businesses to be formed from logging. It was discovered that there was a use for the bark from the hemlock tress that they were cutting down. An extraction from the hemlock bark called tannin could be used to tan hides for making leather, thus, tanneries were constructed. Elk County’s first tannery was built in 1820. Chemical plants were built for different reasons.??? Need more. At one point, Elk County had the most chemical plants in the state. Other businesses like machine shops, blacksmithing, foundry products, the dye industry, raft building, and the rail road building relied on the logging industry as well. The logging industry brought in money to the area that was not there before, thus stimulating many new businesses to form.

One of the necessities needed during the lumbering days was the maintenance of wagons and rigs and shoeing of horses. Blacksmiths were very much in demand. Perhaps the best-known family in Elk County in this trade is the Gray family. In 1905, Gray operated a blacksmith shop in Caledonia, and later moved and rebuilt the shop in Weedville. He and his four sons, Rex, Clyde, Harry and Lloyd also became masters of the trade and worked in the area. From the Elk County History book, pg 385. o o

Pic of gray family, or blacksmith

Look more on Pg. 17 & 18 in Elk Co. history book Look more on Pg. 1-15 in John’s book

To get an idea of what an old lumber town was like, we will take a look at the Laurel Mill located on Big Mill Creek, which is near Ridgway. It is one of the earlier water powered mills. It was established in 1849. Laurel Mill’s location is where Sandy Beach Recreational Park is currently located on the west side of Ridgway; the H. B. Norton Dam (Ridgway Reservoir) just upstream, currently is the water supply for most Ridgway residents. • • • • 3.

Mining When it began Type of mining prevalent Look at old mining town – Wilmer / Benezette – Bennett Branch wq

Population increases due to jobs from the above industries • Look at Elk County population census from the beginning of recording to present

4. Historical Impacts of the industries 6

Pennsylvania employs about 90,000 people in the forestry industry. A few examples of jobs that have been created by the forestry industry are: Forester, logger, sawmill worker, furniture builder, flooring makers, and cabinet manufacturers. These 90,000 jobs end up amounting to over 10% of the states workforce. This large number of people being employed by one industry shows just how successful the industry is. Pennsylvania is now the number one producer of hardwood lumber in the nation. Pennsylvania produces over 1 billion board feet of hardwood lumber annually. This is quite an astonishing number. We now know just how successful the industry is today, but what about the past. Well, forestry in the past was also a very successful endeavor. At one time, lumbering was so prevalent that almost all small towns in the area had a sawmill. The industry, back then, also employed a large number of people and brought a good amount of money to the area. The biggest difference between then and now is the attention being paid to the environment. Some of the things that were done wrong in the past were diameter limit cutting, lack of attention paid to regeneration, water quality, and soil erosion, and impacts on the surrounding landscape. All of these mistakes led to a change in species composition (a lot of red maple and birch as opposed to Oak), loss of water quality, loss and Railroad Hyde &Thayer Sawmill of diversity (both plant and animal), erosion, and fires. at Laurel Mill Although our forest was once seemingly destroyed, we are very fortunate to have a greatly replenished forest today to enjoy. Pennsylvania’s hard wood forest is self-regenerating meaning that the trees will grow back over time. We now have a diverse, high quality, abundant forest. The forestry industry is now very careful to care for the environment. Past mistakes can not be made again as regeneration can become an issue if not planned properly. You could say we got lucky the first time, but the next time may not work out so well. Some things that the Forestry industry is doing to ensure the safety of our forest, environment, and water quality is: enforcing stricter environmental regulations, having a forestry community (everyone from loggers to foresters etc.) that is far more knowledgeable and far more professional, using certification systems that help track performance and sustainability, addressing insect and disease infestations, ensuring high quality regeneration, using tools such as conservation easements, and focusing mainly on working the forest in a way that helps keep that forest forested rather than converted to other uses. Lackawanna Lumber Company Engine #242 - Mina, PA

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Coal mining Like timbering, coal mining is an important aspect of Elk County’s history for two different reasons. At one time the mining of coal was something positive for Elk County. It gave people jobs, heated people’s homes, and helped develop local economy. Now, coal mining has taken on a different light. We now think of the devastation and lasting negative impression that coal mining has left on our area. There are two main companies that have mined more than 70% of the coal taken out of Elk County from 1832 to 1970. The Northwestern Mining and Exchange Company and the Shawmut Mining Company have been the main players in the coal mining of Elk County. They chose Elk County because it lies on the northern part of a bituminous coal field. The coal was to be shipped to New York so the close distance lowered transportation costs. Most of the coal that has been mined out of Elk County has come from the Lower Kittanning seam. The amount of coal that has been mined from Lower Kittanning is estimated at about 90 % of all coal taken out of Elk County. Elk County’s first coal mine was opened in 1843, which led to the opening of many more mines all throughout Elk County’s beautiful land.

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Current status of above industries in the county • Are there still active operations? • Are they still impacting the resources?

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Current status of water / land resources a. Biology of a healthy aquatic ecosystem. • What is a watershed • Stream ecology

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b. c. d. e. 7.

The Forests Connection to Watershed Health (important section) • Beth’s PA Heritage industry report Activities ongoing to fix historical impacts / Watershed groups Toby Creek Watershed Association Bennett Branch Watershed Association Elk County Freshwater Association

Hope for the future…what things could be like with the help of everyone a. Andy add ending words of wisdom. Make sure to include: A. maps B. timeline C. photos D. drawings E. Quotes a. Margaret Mead b. Tricha’s tree quote

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c. References:

1. A History of Elk County, Pennsylvania 1981. Copyright Elk County Historical Society 1982. Alice L. Wessman

2. Indians in Pennsylvania 1981 Commonwealth of Pennsylvania, T Pennsylvania Historical and Museum Commission. Paul A.W. Wallace

3. Lumbering – The King of Industries In early Days of Elk County Published by the Elk County Historical Society, Ridgway, PA. Printed by North Central, Ridgway, PA. Editor Helen Hughes. Copyright Elk County Historical Society

4. Elk County – A Journey Through Time 2003. Clarion River Publishing. John D. Imhof

To learn more about the history of Elk County, please visit the Elk County Historical Society in Ridgway.

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