Basic Knots For New Climbers

Basic Knots for new climbers •

Water knot

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Double Fisherman knot

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Figure 8 loop

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Rewoven figure 8

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Double Bowline

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Clove hitch

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Girth hitch

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Munter hitch

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Prusik knot

Butterfly knot

Note:....The knots on this document have been taken from various web sites on the Internet and are copyright of the various authors. Use of their work for this handout is appreciated. They were appreciated by the trainers and the trainees on the Mt. Elphinstone hike at PJ07... There is a wealth of knowledge on the art of knot tying on the weeb, let "Goggle be your friend"...

Knots 1 of 10

Water Knot or Tape Knot

The Water Knot AKA Tape Knot. This knot is used to join two ropes or two tape ends together. When used with tape, the knot is called a tape knot. This knot is the most popular way to join tape to make sling, runner or QuickDraw from tape. The water knot can be used to join two ropes.

Knots 2 of 10

Double Fisherman's Knot: Despite the uptake of knots like the overhand for tying two ropes together, the double fisherman's remains the safest way to do this in the climbing environment. It is also the only knot to use to join ropes of different diameters as it is resistant to the unequal stretching in the ropes that this can induce.

1.

Start the Double Fisherman's Knot by tying a double overhand around the first rope. With the end of the first rope, tie a double overhand around the second rope. Tighten the knots evenly.

2.

Pull the two ropes so the knots come together. This is the Double Fisherman's Knot.

Knots 3 of 10

Figure Eight Loop The figure-eight loop is a good knot to have in your bag of tricks. How do you make it? Happily, the name tells you almost everything you need to know. Just grab hold of the bight of your rope, form a loop and bring it back over the doubled line. Now tuck the loop under, and then thread it round and down through the resulting eye. Pull the knot taut.

Then there is the Figure 8 ½ Loop

This is the same knot but with an extra twist!

Knots 4 of 10

Rewoven Figure Eight This knot starts out as a simple figure-8 and then the knot is retraced along the same path with the other end of rope. It can be used to tie two ropes together or to tie into the end of a rope. The Rewoven Eight is just as strong and secure as the Double Fishermans but is more easy to untie. It is very similar to the figure eight follow through climbers use for tying into the rope when climbing. The only difference is that it is rewoven starting from the opposite side of the knot. A very strong and secure knot with the only disadvantages being its high profile bulk that can be caught in cracks when pulling the rope.

Knots 5 of 10

Alpine Butterfly or Butterfly Loop or Butterfly Knot or Lineman's Loop

Knots 6 of 10

Double Bowline A double bowline is a type of knot. It is more secure loop than a regular bowline. Tying: First, learn to tie the bowline by laying the working end on the standing part and twisting to form a loop (the "hole" that the rabbit comes out of). Wrap the loop once more around the working end. Then pass the working end behind the standing part and back down through the double loop. The double bowline is one of two typical tie-in knots used in climbing, along with the Figure-of-eight knot. The advantage of the double bowline over the figure 8 is it is easier to untie after being weighted in a fall.

The double bowline is commonly used by sport climbers who take multiple lead falls and then have trouble untying their figure eights. The disadvantage of the double bowline is that it is more likely to come untied than a figure eight knot. This is especially true for newer ropes. For this reason, climbers should not tie in with a double bowline without also backing it up with a stopper knot

Knots 7 of 10

Clove Hitch The clove hitch is a type of knot. It consists of two identical half hitches made successively around an object. It is most effective used as a crossing knot. Although it can be used as a binding knot, it is not particularly secure in that role.[1] A clove hitch made around the standing part of the line is known as either Two half-hitches or Buntline hitch, depending on whether half-hitches progress away or towards the hitched object. Used as a traditional hitch, that is loading only one end, the clove hitch is liable to slip. It requires a load in each direction in order to be effective, such as when being used as a crossing knot. It should not be relied on with rope that is thin or very slippery, as it can work itself loose, especially under a swinging or rotating load. It can also jam and become difficult to untie under some situations. To tie a clove hitch, first place a loop around the pole, with the working end of the rope on top. Run the working end round the pole once more until you meet the place where the ropes cross, then pass the working end under the cross. Pull to tighten

Knots 8 of 10

Girth Hitch The Girth Hitch is a standard knot used to attach a loop (sling or rope) to some anchor

Munter Hitch This knot is useful for both assailing and belaying. It's advisable to use a pear-shaped locking carabineer, and try to avoid cross-loading it. The knot will "flip" as opposite strands of the rope are pulled, this is normal. To lock the knot, apply the braking hand by moving the slack line parallel with the loaded line.

Knots 9 of 10

Prusik Knot The Prusik Knot is used to ascend a climbing rope using a smaller cord. The smaller cord is tied using the double fisherman's knot. The knot is tied by wrapping the looped cord around the climbing rope to create friction when weight is applied. When weight is released the prusik loosens so it can be slid up the rope.

1. Begin the Prusik Knot by connecting the ends of a smaller diameter cord using the Fishermans Knot. Put the looped cord behind the loop it is being tied to. Adjust the cord so the knot does not go to the end.

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2. Pass the end with the knot through the loop three times. At this point you can add more winds or turns around the climbing rope to create more friction as necessary. 3. Pass the end with the knot under the opposite side's loop. Do not let the winds overlap. Tighten the knot evenly. 4. Tighten and work the cord until it is cinched tight as shown. This is the completed Prusik Knot. -30-

Knots 10 of 10