Applique.pptx

Pipli, Orissa

 Findings  Types of Application  Design  History  Geometrical features  How to identify?  Styles  Theory  Ergonomics  Principle properties of  Environmental issues materials used and  Pricing characteristics that justifies  Market study its selection  Brand comparison  Methodology  Visits to manufacturing units and  Locale of the study markets  Type of study  Conclusion  Sampling  Learning outcome  Data collection tools used  Technological advancement  Tool Requirements  Future scope and development/  Materials Required R&D  Process flow  References  Process parameters

 What is Applique?  Review

•Applique derives the word from APPLIQER.

•It means to cover or put on.

Patchwork defines applique.

COMMON MAN HISTORY People began using other bits of cloth to cover up holes in clothing items.

TRIBAL HISTORY Many tribals used applique in tents and dwellings.

THE ROYAL HISTORY Kings appointed craftsmen skilled in designing the canvas cloth that is used to cover the chariots of Lord Jaganath.

• Patchwork of fabric patches layered on a foundation fabric

• Hand stitched (now

•

machines are used too) Raw ends stitched with decorative stitches

•VIBRANT COLOURS •NATURE INSPIRED MOTIFS(PLANTS, ANIMALS, BIRDS) • HAND STITCHED

•GLASSWORK

 Applique basically cuts up various coloured fabrics

which are then sewn to the surface of another foundation fabric.  It has now developed into a needlework technique in which smaller pieces of fabric materials like small mirrors and other forms of embroidery are sewn onto a bigger piece of the cloth to create.

 Traditionally, cloth used was Canvas Cloth.

 It initiation was to make shamianas for Lord Jagannath

and tents.  Hence, it was important the items were strong along with aesthetic beauty.  Canvas cloth and Pathchwork enhanced strength.  Pathchword and stiches enhanced aesthetic value.

 Collecting information from books, journals,  

  

magazines, internet. Preparing questionnaire. Locating a nearby production cluster. Field visit to the cluster for collecting detailed information. Understanding the process flow. Preparing a sample.

 Books  Journals  Internet websites  Field visit

 Questionnaire

 Pen/pencil for making the outline  Needle  Thimble  Scissors

 SNLS machine

 Fabric usually Cotton and velvet  Base cloth  Threads for embroidery and stitching  Embellishments(mirrors,lace,zari)

 Wires  Cardboards for proforma

1. 2. 3. 4.

5. 6. 7.

8.

Pattern making Choosing the raw materials Designing (By drawing or tracing) Cutting Stitching the patchwork Embroidery / Embellishments Stitching the parts of product together Finishing

A card board is taken

Measurements as per the product are drawn on it

The forma is cut out

A basic model of product is made

 Usually the products like shamiana and wall hangings

and other decorative items are made with colourful canvas cloth.  Utility items like shoulder bags, wallets etc are made with jute cloth as a base and a cotton cloth

 A motif is selected.  The measurements are done with correct proportions.  The outline is drawn in the fabric.

Cutting the motifs/patchwork.

Cutting the different parts of the product.

 Embroidery/ embellishments

 Appliqué craft is mainly based upon the chikana or

chain stitch .

 . Bakhia (stem stitch)  Taropa (hem stitch)

3.Guntha (run stitch) 4. Khanja (tag stitch)

5. Button-hole stitch

6.Ganthi (similar to button-hole stitch)

7.Kitikitia (variation on button-hole stitch)

9. Ruching (running stitch) 8. Baiganomangia Kitikitia

Types of patti (strips) are described below along with their colour combinations and measurements.  Phula patti (flower motif): black background with flower of

red, yellow, white, or green, 7-9 inches.

 Sadha patti or naafi patti (plain red strip): always red, 5-6

inches.  Nahara patti (right-facing cone pattern): white, red, and black combination, 5-6 inches.

 Kalaso patti (pitcher strip): black background, white

pitcher pattern, 6 inches.  Beliri patti (strip from left to right): white and red strip, 4-

41h inches.

Mooda patti (strip from right to left): white, red, and black or blue combina-tion, 5-6 inches.  Gula patti (wavy strip): black background, chain stitch with red or white thread, 5-6 inches.

 Hirana patti (mogra flower strip): red

background, flower of white cloth, 3 inches.  Chaina patti (strip of embroidered patterns in chain stitch): 3 inches.  Khandiyali patti (diamond-shaped strip): red and

black square (chauka) pania (triangular strip on top and bottom edge) cloth, 5-6 inches.

 Chauka patti (square strip): background of black and

blue, with chain of white thread, 5-6 inches.  Sua patti (swan strip): background of red with green sua, 5-7 inches.  Hansa patti (swan strip): black background, with red and yellow hansa, 5-7 inches.  Chidiya patti (clubs strip): black background with chidiya of red and yellow or red background chidiya of black and yellow, 4 inches.

PATCHWORK Motifs used in applique include trees, creepers, leaves, flowers, birds, animals, fish, celestial bodies, symbols and other motifs, which are given in detail below:  Tree: belagaccha (tree of Bael or Aegle marmelos

correa).

 Leaves (patra): bela (leaf of Bael); banka; pana

(betelleaf); suji.

 Flowers: malli (mogra); padma, tarup, guntha (types

of lotus); surya mukhi (sunflower); utha phula

(raised flower); sunsuniya

 Birds: sua (parrot); bataka (duck); hansa (swan);

mayur (peacock); ganda maurya or bhairaba (doubleheaded peacock).

 Creeper: tohi or dali.

 Animals: hat; (elephant); singho (lion).



 Fish: matsha.

Heavenly bodies: surya (sun); chandra (moon).

 Other: Rahu (demon who swal10ws the sun and moon

during eclipses); kangula (triangular-shaped motif); flag.

 Joining

 Attaching wires

Qualitative and quantitative aspects of physical and functional characteristics of a component, device, product, or system that are input to its design process. Design parameters determine cost, design, and risk tradeoffs in the item's development.       

Spacious workshop Storage space Lights Fans Utilities Distance between consecutive machines Lead time

 Sujini (embroidered quilt)

 MOST WIDELY USED: Flower Patchwork  Mainly influenced from nature and everyday life.

 Differents shapes or fabrics are cut.  It includes geometric shapes like triangles and

rectangles.

 MOST WIDELY USED STYLES: Lord Jagannath  Patchwork stitching is the  The arrangement of structural patterns and the

combination of different colours form the main theme.

Ergonomics can be defined simply as the study of work. More specifically, ergonomics is the science of designing the job to fit the worker, rather than physically forcing the worker’s body to fit the job. Adapting tasks, work stations, tools, and equipment to fit the worker can help reduce physical stress on a worker’s body and eliminate many potentially serious, disabling workrelated musculoskeletal disorders (MSDs).

Lifting/lowering tasks: lifting sewing machines for cleaning Upper Body Posture: straight, sometimes bent forward Entire Body Posture: sitting Pushing/pulling: none Hand-Arm Vibration: working with sewing machines

 broderie perse (Persian embroidery), or chintz

appliqué.

 Many fashion designers have used appliqué in

their lines: Elsa Schiaparelli, Franco Moschino, Gianni Versace, Bob Mackie, and Christian Francis Roth are examples. Koos van den Akker's entire line is devoted to quilted, appliquéd collages.