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TABLE OF CONTENTS EXECUTIVE SUMMARY ........................................................................................................................... 3 SPINNING PROCESS ............................................................................................................... 5 1.BLOW ROOM ................................................................................................................. 6 2.CARDING ..................................................................................................................... 6 3.DRAW FRAME ............................................................................................................... 6 5.SIMPLEX ...................................................................................................................... 7 6.RING .......................................................................................................................... 7 7.AUTO CORNS ................................................................................................................. 7 8.PACKING ...................................................................................................................... 7 MAJOR OBSERVATIONS ......................................................................................................16

THE WEAVING PROCESS .................................................................................................10 1.WARPING ..................................................................................................................11 2.SIZING ......................................................................................................................12 3.WEAVING ..................................................................................................................12 4.FOLDING ....................................................................................................................15 MAJOR OBSERVATIONS ......................................................................................................16 NISHAT DYEING & FINISHING ………………………………………………………17 GREIGE DEPARTMENT .......................................................................................................... 17 BLEACHING DEPARTMENT ................................................................................................... 18 DYEING DEPARTMENT ......................................................................................................... 34 FINISHING & FOLDING DEPARTMENT ................................................................................... 41 QUALITY LABS...................................................................................................................... 45

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NISHAT MILLS LIMITED - APPAREL DIVISION ……………………………..…52 MARKETING DEPARTMENT........................................................................................... 18 PPIC DEPARTMENT ....................................................................................................... 54 MMCDEPARTMENT ...................................................................................................... 56 PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT DEPARTMENT ...................................................................... 58 SAMPLING DEPARTMENT ............................................................................................. 60 FABRIC INSPECTION DEPARTMENT ............................................................................... 62 CAD DEPARTMENT DEPARTMENT................................................................................. 65 CUTTING DEPARTMENT ................................................................................................ 67 INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT ..................................................................... 69 SEWING DEPARTMENT ................................................................................................. 71 GARMENT WET PROCESSING DEPARTMENT.................................................................. 73 WASHING DEPARTMENT .............................................................................................. 80 FINANCE DEPARTMENT ................................................................................................ 85 ACCOUNTS DEPARTMENT............................................................................................. 89 HUMAN RESOURCE DEPARTMENT ................................................................................ 18

NISHAT MILLS LIMITED -HEAD OFFICE …………………………..92 EXPORT DEPARTMENT ........................................................................................................ 94 RECOMMENDATIONS… ………………………………………………………………100

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Executive Summary

Converting its identity from a cotton export house into the largest business group of Pakistan, Nishat has proved its excellence. Having 5 listed companies on its panel of ownership, concentrating on 4 core businesses; Textiles, Cement, Banking and Power Generation, today, Nishat is considered to be at par with multinationals operating locally in terms of its quality products and management skills. After successful completion of 2 months orientation program we’re pleased to present our report based on the whole tenure we’ve spent at Nishat Mills Ltd. The orientation program not only revolved around the product knowledge training but also familiarized us with the system, the style of working & the commitment of the employees at NML.The difference between the success & failure is doing things right and doing things nearly right, & NML has always come up with innovative ideas & that is why it is known to be one of the leading organizations in Pakistan. Irrespective of all these positive points of Nishat Mills Limited, we have noticed a few areas where improvement can lead to further efficiency and better results. This report gives an insight to all of the sectors and departments that we visited during our orientation program which includes Spinning unit situated in Ferozwatwan,weaving unit in Bhiki,Nishat dyeing & finishing unit # 35 & 36 and Apparel Division. It was wise step to develop such orientation program which had a wide spectrum enabling the new employees know the whole flow of work properly .It also enabled us look deeply into the areas having less importance for existing personnel who due to the nature of their work overlooks them but indeed has intense consequences for the whole system.

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The first phase of our learning process started from visit to one of the spinning units owned by NML situated in one of the villages on Faisalabad road named as Ferozwatwaan.Initially all of us was in a bewildered state of mind as to why a visit is scheduled at a spinning unit which ultimately has no link with the type of work we will be doing. However it turned other way round and with time we realized that it was a very wise step to include this visit in our orientation program. The byproduct of any spinning unit is yarn which by far is one of the very basic input of the value-added product that we shall be selling eventually. Any sort of problem incurred in the production of yarn can be carried forward to the last step resulting in poor product. Following is the information and knowledge we gathered from Ferozwatwan spinning unit:

Spinning process

Following is the process flow we observed at Ferozwatwaan unit which starts after bails of cotton arrives at the unit.

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1.BLOW ROOM After cotton is in-house it is then transferred to the blowroom.The basic purpose it serves is purification of cotton.At Ferozwatwan blow room consists of two lines. The initial activities, which takes place at blowroom, is opening and loosening of bails and mixing of cotton. This helps separate and clean the cotton before it is fed into carding machines. As the cotton cleaning process starts,cotton fibers are separated from dust, trash, jute which may be transferred while packing material of bails ,polyproplene and other impurities particles.It is essntial to remove all sort of impurities so that the finest quality of yarn can be produced. Also the wastage extracted during this process is recycled. 2.CARDING Ferozwatwaan units consists of 18 carding machines. In this process carding machines further loosens and separates the cotton fibers by passing the fibers between two rotating metal drums covered with wire needles. This aligns the cotton in a thin web of parallel fibers, which is formed into a rope-like strand called a sliver. The sliver is collected in a sliver can in preparation for roving. Initial process of arranging the fiber in a parallel fashion is known as carding, and is done on a carding machine. The lap is passed through a better section and drawn on a rapidly revolving cylinder covered with very fine hooks or wire brushes. A moving belt of wire brushes slowly moves concentrically above this cylinder. As the cylinder rotates, the cylinder through the small gap under the brushes pulls the cotton. The testing action removes the remaining trash, disentangles the fibers, and arranges them in relatively parallel manner in a form of a thin web. This web is drawn through a funnel-shaped device that molds it into a round rope like mass called card sliver. 3.DRAW FRAME Combination of several sliver eliminates irregularities that would cause too many variations if slivers were put through individually. Slivers are passed through several pairs of rollers, each advance set of rollers, revolve at a progressively faster speed. This action pulls the staple lengthwise over each other, there by producing longer and thinner slivers. To measure the sliver

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thickness variation and then continuously to alter the draft accordingly so that more draft is applied to thick places, and less to thin places with the result that sliver delivery is less irregular

than it otherwise would have been. Finisher and breaker is used to produce carded material and carded is inferior product and less fine. When the combing process is includes in it that will make more superior and high quality yarn which softer and fine. 5.SIMPLEX After several drawing operations the fiber passes through simplex and the output is roving. Slight twist is given to reduce the diameter and gain some tensile strength. Roving process reduce mass variation in the process. 6.RING Drawn out slivers are then fed to the roving frame where they are drawn further while a slight twist is added. The roving strands are collected in cans and fed to the spinning machine. The spinning machine draws out the roving strand adds twist, and winds the yarn onto bobbins. Twisting the fibers holds them together and gives the yarn strength. There are only two directions that yarn can be twisted clock wise and counter clockwise. Roving is fed to the ring frame and the output is yarn. Counter clockwise twist is known as “S” twist while clockwise is known as “Z” twists. 7.AUTO CORNS The yarn is further winded on the corn from the ring frame. This is an automatic process in which the corns are filled on the machine and automatically complete the corn process of corns. 8.PACKING In packing process a separate department is working on the packing of corns. In this department steam is passed through the yarn to make the twist permanent. Moisture is absorbed in the yarn and after that finally yarn is ready to export or weaving. 7|Page

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Major observations : •

Latest machinery Rieter K45 being used in the process of ring which is only available at Nishat mills Ltd as of now.

•

Provides good facility and benefits to workers and employees which enhances their productivity.

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Salaries are on time and incentives are given to workers giving them a affectionate feeling which increases the retenion ratio of workers.

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Mostly machines are automated with very less work force seen on the floor.

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Neat and clean environment

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Various canteens and eat out places situated in different corners of the unit.

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Self-generation of electricity increases credibility of Nishat in completing orders on time which is restricted by enerygy crisis for other companies.

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Hospitable staff.

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After being acquainted with the whole process of yarn production , we were then shifted to the next arena where yarn is taken as an input inorder to make greige cloth i.e weaving unit.Nishat Mills Ltd’s weaving unit was situated in Bhiki which was close by the unit we visited earlier.Like ferozwatwan we were welcomed whole heartedily by the HR and Administration staff at Bhiki unit who shared relevant information effectively.Especially Mr.Ramzan Akhtar ,Hr manager,who himself accompanied us and explained the whole phenomena of fabric creation taking place at Bhiki. Nishat Mills Limited takes proud in the production of the finest quality of fabric, including different types of twill, drill, canvases, for all variety of bottom wear. Nishat weave stretch fabric for bottom wear like twill, matt, sateen & plain weave. 4 weaving units are being operated in Bhiki, unit 21, unit 22, unit 23, unit 28. Nishat Dying & Finishing also have weaving unit 29 where we paid a day visit later on.The visit proved quite helpful in developing an understanding how exactly fabric is made and problems encountered as a result of weaving process.Following material provides an insight of our visit to Bhiki weaving unit.

THE WEAVING PROCESS Raw material required for weaving is yarn.As soon as the purchased yarn arrives at the unit it is then shifted to the Gadoon where it is marked and placed respectively by providing key information on its packaging like,purchaser name and count i.e construction of yarn.In the next phase from every lot 10% yarn is extracted for inspection and testing. The process of testing is called board testing which is a type of physical testing. Through this test yarn quality is measured against standards and signifies its strength,twist and check for any impurities.Likewise compliements are generated after the testing process is over. Yarn with less than 20 counts is normal, while yarn with more than 20 counts is considered to be of good quality. After this whole process is completed the weaving process is initiated which is summarized in the following flow chart.

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Weaving Processes

Warping

Sizing

Weaving

Folding

Packing

1.WARPING Warping is the process in which beams are prepared for weaving. This is the first step in weaving to stretch the warp, or longitudinal, yarns, which must be very strong. The weft, woof, or filling crosses the warp, binding the warp threads at either side to form the selvage. The three essential steps after the warp is stretched are: shedding, or raising every alternate warp yarn or set of yarns to receive the weft; picking, or inserting the weft; and battening, or pressing home the weft to make the fabric compact. In most primitive weaving these operations were performed by warping machines. Weaving is carried out on a loom. Threads run lengthways from back to front of the loom. These are known as the "warp". Using a shuttle yarn is threaded widthways - this is the "weft". At one time it was probably threaded by hand — under; over; under; over; under; over etc with something like a needle. But even in early times, using a hand-loom, it was found to be much quicker to raise alternate warp threads and lower the others. The weft could then be carried 11 | P a g e

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between them in a straight line. The position of the warp threads was then reversed and the weft sent back in the opposite direction.

2.SIZING Sizing means the operations of applying a special solution (known as size solution) to warp yarn to strengthen smoothen and lubricate them. In machine sizing a warp is transferred from a warp beam to a loom beam. Warp is sheet form is withdrawn from a warp beam is passed through a sow-box and the squeezing rollers of a sizing machine. The sizing agents generally used is PVA (polyvinyl alcohol), Starch, Acrylic esters, CMC (carboxymethyl cellulose), Wax etc.

3.WEAVING Woven fabrics consist of warp and wept yarns interlaced with one another according to the classes of structure and the form of design desired e.g. plain, twill etc. operations which are fundamental are performed in sequence are shedding includes raising and lowering of warp yarns by the harnesses to make a opening for the filling yarn to pass through. Picking is inserting filling yarn through the shed by a carrier device. Beating up is pushing each loose filling yarn into the cloth by the reed, after the shuttle has move through the shed. Taking up and letting off is winding the procedure fabric on the cloth beam and releasing more of the warp yarn from the warp beam. ➢ REEDS & HEALDS The heald is the part of the loom that is used to move the warp threads up and down. The threads pass through eyelets on the heald. As explained above for a simple weave pattern alternate eyelets are moved up to raise the corresponding warp threads, and the threads between are moved down. When the shuttle travels back their positions are reversed. The reed is like a comb and its purpose is to control the separation of the warp threads. "Reed makers" seems to be a fairly common occupation in the census so perhaps this means that the reeds had a relatively limited life. The shuttle was impelled across the loom, between the "up" and "down" warp threads, by being hit with a "picking stick. The cycle being repeated perhaps 200 times a minute this was responsible for a lot of the noise.

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➢ DRAWNING TWISTING All the warp threads have to be threaded through the heald eyelet and its gap in the reed. This is done by "drawers" and "reachers". Where a new warp thread (or "end") had to be joined to an old one this was done by a "loomer". ➢ SHUTTLE & WEFT With a basic Lancashire loom the weaver had to replenish the weft thread in the shuttle. There was a trend towards increasing the size of the shuttle and the pirn or cop that it held. Also the loom had to be stopped whilst the shuttle was reloaded which could affect the continuity of the cloth perhaps leaving a slight imperfection at the place where the stoppage occurred. Automatic looms came in from the start of the 1900s and made this stoppage unnecessary by automatically reloading the shuttle when needed during its momentary stop before it reversed direction. In his book Tippett discusses some modern looms which move the thread across without a shuttle. But this would be after the time of most our ancestors.

➢ TYPES OF WEAVE ➢ PLAIN

WEAVE

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In this diagram as in those that follow the warp is the red threads running up and down the page (from back to front of the loom) and the weft is the white ones going from side to side. The different colours are just to distinguish warp and weft. Normally the same colour would be used for both. Most simple and most common type of construction Inexpensive to produce, durable, Flat, tight surface is conducive to printing and other finishes. The nature of the weave is important in determining the 'feel' and qualities of the cloth — how it folds, how it hangs, its strength, and so on.

➢

TWILL

This diagram shows a simple twill. You can see how it gives rise to a pattern of diagonal lines. In a slightly different twill the weft could go over 2 warp threads and then under 1, over 2, under 1, and so on. In this case the warp would dominate one side of the cloth and the weft the other. The two faces of the cloth would be different. More so if the warp is coarser than the weft. "Jean" and "denim" are variants of such twills.

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SATIN

Here an extra degree of complexity is added. The long lengths of warp shown in this example can make the cloth weaker or more fragile but adds shine to the fabric as it has floats in it. More vulnerable to damage in wear. All three diagrams show regular and predictable patterns which repeat at frequent small intervals. The Jacquard loom is capable of much more complex patterns than this — such as weaving motifs and "pictures". Most looms are horizontal but the Jacquard loom is vertical.

➢

JACQUARD WEAVE

Jacquard weave is for creating complex patterns on fabrics and is woven on jacquard loom. The fabrics made through this weave have floats, luster, and are more stable and stretchy than the basic weaves. Some of its examples are matelasse, satin Faconne etc. It is used for upholstery and drapery.

4.FOLDING Folding is the last step of this process. Once the fabric has prepared the quality is checked in folding department fabric is being packed in Rolls and in Bails. The packing would be according to the demand of the buyer whether buyer demands it in rolls or in bails. These rolls & bails are made as per the piece length requirement of the buyer. After packing of the fabric it put in the go down. Now this fabric is ready to dispatch.

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MAJOR OBSERVATIONS ➢ Three types of machines are operating in Bhiki: Jackard -

130 Machines

Air Jet

-

106 Machines

Rapier

-

24 Machines

12 Rappier

12 Jackard

➢ Value added-activities :lifters on battery creating no pollution ➢ Day light being used at gadoons saving electricity ➢ Neat and clean environment ➢ Training center giving free training to inducted workforce for 3 days. ➢ State of the art facility ➢ Human friendly chemicals being used.

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As the second phase initiated we were shifted to Nishat dyeing & finishing unit situated in Lahore.Where we got equipped with further knowledge about products and processes being used in Nishat for the final outcome.Indepth analysis of our observation is described below. 1.GREIGE DEPARTMENT

The first and foremost step of the processing department is inspection of greige cloth. The cloth from weaving mills is given its lot number and then stored in storages room. When production and planning department requires the specific quality and type of fabric, the desired quality and type of fabric is issued from the storage and give its processing number and set of processing.

Before the loom state or greige cloth is set for processing it has to go through a number of inspections, which would help to overcome any defects and faults caused by inefficient weaving or mishandling of the fabric during its course of life from weaving shed to the processing zone. And also help to estimate the fabric quality and assist to consider the possible difficulties, which may come during the processing of that fabric. The woven fabric comes in three different types of packing or forms, which are as follow: 1. Bale form (can contain 800-900meters of cloth; usually have 250-300m) 2. Roll form (same as Bale form) 3. Pallets form (capacity of 1,200-20,000meters, usually have 1200-1400m). The difference between these three types of packages of greige cloth is the different amount of lengths that could be wound, the shapes and types of packing. The most suitable type of packing is in the form of pallets, this due to the fact that in pallets form we can have large length of greige fabric and hence there would be less sewing and joining of different lengths of fabric and longer lengths of fabric are available for runs, and the second reason is that in pallets form the 17 | P a g e

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greige fabric is less vulnerable to defects caused during packing, handling and transportation of greige fabric from loom shed.

Quality Assurance Process Flow

Following is the series of the inspection procedure at the inspection departments or in Greige. Lot Received

Quality confirmed

Inspection from DATA Entry

Random Checking

Visual Grading

Approved

Lab terms

Take Fabric in Stock update record

and

Inspection Summary

Rejected

Feed back to supplier

Return to supplier

(Flow Chart Of The Proves In Greige Inspection Department)

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Unrolling At NDF The NDF unrolling department has got number of unrolling machine, so it can unroll several packages of greige cloth at a same time. In this department the greige fabric which is in bales or pallets or rolls from in unrolled onto a container in the form of plaits, with the help of platter unrolling mechanism .At the same time the unrolling fabric is checked for the any faults that may be present in the greige fabric. The major faults incurred in this department are creases; oil marks, hanging treads and some times holes. If the degree of the fault is conspicuous then the PP (Production Planning) department is notified this problem, which takes necessary steps as an action.

Types/ Qualities of Fabric Processed At NDF At NDF different qualities pure cotton, cotton & polyester blend (pc) are processed. They might be greige cloth or sometimes yarn dyes fabrics are processed but most of the times 100 % cotton and cotton-polyester blends are processed. But all this depends upon the buyer demand and the machine and process lines available at mill.

Factors Affecting the Inspection at Greige Inspection One of the most important factor is the cost and amount of labor required to unfold the packing of greige fabrics, and once again the fabric in pallets are easy to unwind and require less labor, hence this saves both time and money . Defects in the Greige or Loom State Cloth The defects in greige or loom state fabric are of four types, which are as under:

1. Spinning Faults 2. Weaving Faults 3. Mending Faults 19 | P a g e

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4.Handling Faults Spinning faults Spinning faults are due to inefficient and improper spinning of yarn, which may cause fat yarn, sluby yarn, thick yarn, uneven linear density, variation in count, thin & thick yarn, over or under twisted yarn, mixed yarn etc... Weaving faults Weaving faults include such as double pick, miss pick, miss end, double warp, smashes, oily warp and oily weft etc… Mending faults Mending faults include surface tails and hanging threads, and also the creases during packing, which are of great importance, are considered as majors faults. Handling faults Handling faults includes water stains, color marks; oil marks and sometimes holes also. Cloth Grading Followed At NDF At NDF the greige fabric is differently inspected. The fabric which is bought from some out side source (other then NDF) is inspected 100 % where as the fabric bought/brought from Nishat Fabric Limited is only inspected 10 % of the total.

IN NDF THE INSPECTION STANDARDS ARE ACCORDING TO THE 4 POINT SYSTEM AND ARE AS FELLOW

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4 POINT SYSTEM (EUROPEN SYSTEM) MAJOR & MINOR PENTALY POINTS

Penalty Points

1

2

3

4

Defects in warp except

Upto—3”

3”—6”

6”—9”

9”—36”

3”—6”

6”—9”

9”—36”

holes & torn

Defects in weft except

Upto—3”

holes and torn

Cutting Faults

Hole & Tear ¼ & over Heavy crack & Floats

Total acceptable penalty points in 100 sq

24

meters

Total acceptable penalty points in 100 sq

20

yards

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10 POINT SYSTEM (JAPANESE SYSTEM) MAJOR & MINOR PENTALY POINTS

Penalty Points

1

Defects in warp except

Upto1” or

holes & torn

below

Defects in weft except

Upto1” or

holes and torn

below

Cutting Faults

3

5

10

1”—5”

5”—10”

Above 10”

Above 10” 1”—5”

5”—10”

Hole & Tear ¼ & over Heavy crack & Floats

Total acceptable penalty points in 100

60

Linear meters

Following are the formulas for the above calculations Sq. meter = Length x Width 39.3704 Total Penalty Points X 100

Points/100 sq meters=

Sq. meters

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P R E - D Y E I N G

T R E A T M E N T S

The pre-dyeing stage includes a series of operations that prepare the textile product for subsequent treatments such as dyeing, printing and finishing. These operations vary according to the type of fiber/fabric on which they have to be carried out, to the structure of the textile product (staple, top, sliver, yarn, fabric) and also depend on the subsequent treatments to be carried out, which may change according to various factors such as market demands, customer requirements, staff experience, and availability of machines. The pre-dyeing stage includes for example Desizing, Singeing, Scouring, Bleaching and Mercerizing. Each process varies according to the processing conditions and the above-mentioned specific situations. Stitching Of Greige Fabric Before any pre-treatment process, different lengths of the fabrics are stitched together to get the required length of the fabric sheet. The stitching at NDF is of over lock type with two threads. The stitching has very great importance in the proceeding processes of wet processing; if the stitching is not properly done then it may cause creases and rope formation of fabric in different machines The maximum stitch width should be 100 mm other wise it would cause the problem during the processing. 2.BLEACHING DEPARTMENT After the greige fabric is fully inspected it is then transferred to bleaching department where it is made solvent for dyeing processes. The process of removal of color impurities is known as bleaching. Generally the end product of bleaching is pure white fabrics.Process flow taking in bleaching department is as follows.

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Types of Bleaching The types of bleaching are on the bases of the level of bleaching. There are two types of bleaching 1. Full Bleaching 2. Half Bleaching (These types are only for the hydrogen per oxide bleaching) The difference between these two types is the concentration of hydrogen peroxide and concentration of other reagents. Type OF Bleaching Machinery There are two main bleaching machineries commonly used in the industry: CONTINUOUS BLEACHING MACHINERY Following are the main continues bleaching machines ➢ Pad, L-Box, wash ➢ Pad, J-Box, wash ➢ Pad, steam, wash

Bleaching at NDF At NDF the peroxide bleaching is done. For this purpose H2O2 is used as main bleaching agent.

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Bleaching at NDF, is carried out using KUSTERS bleaching machine. The process of scouring can also be done on this machine. The only difference is of chemicals used and the steaming time. During scouring the steaming time is reduced from 20 minutes to 5 minutes. Desized or scoured fabric are subjected to H 2O2 bleaching, depending upon the results desired and the composition of the fabric. At the KUSTER machine, the fabric comes form the compactor washers to the bleaching range. In the bleaching range there is a chemical bath (saturator). The bleaching solution is padded on the fabric through the squeezing rollers/padders and then the fabric is piled up in the steam chamber where high temperature of about 99ºC is maintained. Here in the steamer the fabric is piled for about 20 mins, which is actually the dwell time. After the dwelling times the fabric is removed and then again washed in the washers. Before the washers the fabric is passed through e-vac, which is used to suck the fibers with the help of air. Now the fabric goes to turbo washers where it is washed in the washer with tape water and at the end, the fabric is dried at the drying cylinders and then again piled at the stand for the next step/process. The drying cylinders are heated with the help of steam and the temperature of them is about 150ºC. After drying the bleached fabric on the drying cylinders, the fabric is piled onto the trolleys or batched on the batcher and supplied to the next process or in some cases supplied to the buyer if the fabric is demanded in PFD state.

For the PFD state fabric the fabric is finally send to the packing department after bleaching, since that is to be delivered to customers in PFD state after bleaching process. EXHAUST BLEACHING MACHINERY This type of bleaching is carried out to get better whiteness. The degree of whiteness which can be achieved by this method is far superior to the whiteness achieved by continuous method. The machine which is being used to carry out this process in NDFis FUNKY JIGGER TITAN by Germany. 25 | P a g e

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Funky Jigger Titan (Germany) Two FUNKY JIGGERS are present in NDF. They are used for different purposes. Fabric can either be scoured to remove the impurities or it can be bleached to give better whiteness results. Combine process of scouring and bleaching can also be done to get the desired results.

S I N G E I N G Singeing treatment is done in order to burn off the fuzz and fiber ends so that it can highlight the fabric weave. After singeing the fibers that protrude form the fabric are burned

away to give the fabric a smoother surface because such fabrics are valued for their smooth appearance. Further singeing is almost essential with goods intended for printing. Objectives of Singeing of Woven Fabrics Following are the advantages that we achieve from the singeing process: ➢ Surface hairs help to trap air in the fabric when immersed in water ----it takes longer for water to enter the fabric since it must first displace the air. Singeing therefore helps to increase the fabric wet ability. ➢ It creates a smooth surface for printing. It may be possible to print fine detail on a hairy surface but once the hair moves again after printing and fine details will become fuzzy and indistinct. ➢ To emphasize the woven structure of fabric if that is considered desirable. ➢ It prevents a “frosty” appearance after dyeing. The projecting dyed hairs give the fabric surface the appearance of being paler than the rest of the fabric. ➢ To prevent or minimize the tendency of blend fabrics to form PILLS. Pills are the little balls of fiber that arise on the surface of some fabrics as a result of abrasion that occurs during usage. The cloth is brushed to eliminate the dust and other loose impurities and. Brushed fabrics are subjected to singeing process 26 | P a g e

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Types of Singeing Singeing, is most generally done by passing the fabric through a burning flame at high speed followed by quenching in water or in desizing bath to extinguish the smoldering fibers. There are also a few other types of singeing treatment. 1. Plate Singeing 2. Rotary Cylinder Singeing 3. Gas Singeing (Present in NDF)

Quenching: After the fabric is singed through the oxidizing flames the fabric may get some of the burning particles on its surface and if the burners’ intensity is too high the protruding particles may travel on the fabric. In order to prevent this, a quenching operation is carried out. In quenching operation simply the fabric is dipped in the water bath and all the burning particles are quenched and also the fabric is cooled down. After the dipping in the quenching box the fabric is squeezed to remove the excess water.

At osthoff singeing machine the quenching is done by feeding singed fabric direct to the desizing bath so the quenching bath is eliminated here by use of desizer bath.

D E S I Z I N G This treatment is carried out on woven fabrics to remove the sizing substance from the warp. The size must be totally eliminated since the fabric must absorb the liquor of subsequent processes homogeneously. Sizing Sizing is done to give strength to the warp threads so that they can absorb the weaving machine tension and don’t break during the weaving.

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Size can be natural occurring or chemically modified chemicals that are applied on the warp threads of the woven fabric to achieve following properties of the warp thread: ➢ Lubricate the warp thread in order to assist weaving. ➢ To make warp threads flexible. ➢ So that the warp thread become extensible. ➢ And most important feature is to provide strength to the warp thread. ➢ Sometimes especial finishes are applied on the warp threads to avoid any bacterial attack.

Types Of Sizes There are two types of sizes 1. Water-insoluble Sizes 2. Water-soluble Sizes Desizing Theory As discussed earlier desizing is the process of removing of size which is applied at warp threads of the fabric .But there are many types and ways of removing these sizes, some of them are listed below. Desizing At NDF Type of desizing carried out at NDF is enzymatic desizing. The fabric after passing through singeing machine is directly fed to the desizing bath. At the end of the bath, there is a nip roller which applies pressure on the fabric, so that the solution is padded properly onto the fabric After being padded with the enzyme the fabric is given reaction time to allow the enzyme to grow at room temperature with continuous rotation of batcher. The fabric contentiously rotates for 4-6 hr at batcher.

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Chemicals used in the desizing at NDF Following are the chemicals used in NDF for in the preparation of the desizing bath. ➢ Enzyme ➢ Wetting agent ➢ Sequestering agents

The PH of the solution is kept at 4.5. C O L D

B L E A C H I N G

In some cases when the size percentage is not too high and the impurities are not too prominent and problematic and when light quality is processed, cold bleaching is carried out. Cold bleaching at NDF Machine on which cold bleaching is carried out in NDF is OSTHOFF. This machine is almost similar to the OSTHOFF machine used for enzymatic desizing. The only difference is that it has a pair of pre drying steam cylinders for drying the fabric before it is introduced in the bath. Pre drying steam cylinders When the fabric is introduced on the singeing machine, the fabric may contain some of the moisture, which may affect the singeing process because it may hurdle the raising process and ultimately the singeing is not properly done. To minimize that problem the fabric is pre dried with the help of the pre drying steam cylinders on the entrance to the machine. These pre drying cylinders are made of iron and have smooth surface. These are always used in couple to dry both sides of the fabric and are heated with the help of the saturated steam

Process Cold bleaching is nothing but the combination of desizing, scouring and bleaching of fabrics at grey fabric state. For this purpose the fabric is directly cold bleached at desizing bath

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using the desizing, scouring and bleaching chemicals at a time. After the chemicals are pad on fabric at desizing machine, it is batched for 16-18 hr at room temperature with continues rotation. M E R C E R I Z I N G

Mercerization is the process of treatment of cotton on special machines with caustic soda (NaOH) of high concentration (22%--28%), while at the same time keeping the fabric under tension.

The machine in which process of mercerizing is carried out in NDFis made of KUSTER assembled from GERMANY.

Affects/Effects after the Mercerizing Process Mercerization produces following effects in the fabric:

➢ Obtains luster on the fabric surface ➢ Fabric becomes dimensionally stabilized ➢ Fabric gets higher tensile strength ➢ Uniform swelling of cellulose ➢ Better dye pick-up through an increase in the inner surface of the fiber ➢ Improved dye absorption through restructuring of immature or “dead” fiber.

Mercerizing Effect on the Cotton On cotton it produces following effects:

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➢ Improve dye affinity and yield ➢ Improve the strength of the fiber ➢ Improve dimensional stability ➢ Improve chemical reactivity ➢ Improve luster of fiber

Chemical Changes and Structural Changes Due to Mercerizing Mercerizing produces uniform swelling of dead fiber. Due to mercerization the internal reorientation of cellulose structure occurs and both the swelling and reorientation creates more sites for chemical and physical bonding. Further to this, immature fibers also get restructured. Types of Mercerizing There are two types of mercerizing processes 1. Cold mercerizing 2. Hot mercerizing

Mercerizing Process at NDF Mercerizing is usually done after bleaching and rarely after scouring. Some times greige fabric is mercerized. Mercerizing process at NDF is like other continuous processes where the fabric is fed to the mercerizing line in batcher form. First the fabric is passed through the pre-wet containing the hot water having 60-70oC temperature, and then the fabric is stretched to width on the chain which is 6m long. The chain is provided with metallic clamps, which help to clamp the sides of fabric and after this the predetermined stretch is imparted to the fabric. This is done to control the shrinkage in the fabric. There are three main zones in mercerizing which are:

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➢ Mercerizing zone, ➢ Stabilizing zone ➢ Washing zone. In the mercerizing zone the fabric is brought in contact with caustic soda liquor and is subjected to the relevant means of controlling tension. The caustic saturators contains the caustic soda of 26 Be for all types of fabric. The saturator contains the mercerizing liquor, which is only caustic (NaOH). The Be (strength) of the caustic depends upon the type of fabric and the type of properties that the end user demands. The temperature in the mercerizing zone is 70 oC and varies according to quality of the fabric. Commonly used concentration of caustic is as under.

For cotton polyester

26 Be approx.

blends For cotton

26Be approx.

This is the general Beo value but for the sampling the Beo value can vary from 22-38 Beo. After passing through the saturator the fabric is passed through the stabilizing zone which is also called timing zone, in which fabric is passed to the number of metallic rollers because these heavy rollers help to apply tension to the fabric in length-wise direction. This is because that we know that when caustic is applied on to the fabric it tends to shrink the fabric. So to avoid the shrinkage we pass the fabric from the above heavy metallic rollers and on the other hand these cylinders have the function of giving the dwelling time to the fabric and caustic reactions. This time varies from 30 to 60 seconds. This time is depends upon the quality of the fabric to be mercerized and ultimately the speed of the machine.

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It is to be noted that the mercerizing being used at NDF is the hot process because it is using the caustic at temperature of 65-75OC. Then the fabric goes to the washing zone, where in the first three washing the temp is kept at 85-95OC. These are provided with steam heating facilities and they are used for complete removal of caustic. Then after that the fabric is padded with CH 3COOH in the washers No 4, CH3COOH is used to neutralize the fabric and finish it in neutral sate. Then the fabric is passed through the Master Padder, which has 15-35Bar pressure to squeeze the fabric and after drying the fabric is wound onto the cloth rollers. Machine maximum speed is 80meters/minutes but working speed is 30-40meters/minutes, depending upon quality of the fabric. Comparison of Hot Mercerizing with Cold Mercerizing of cotton:

COLD MERCERIZING

HOT MERCERIZING

1. Strong fibre swelling

1. Less fibre swelling

2. Slower swelling

2. Rapid swelling

3. Slower relaxation

3. Rapid relaxation

4. Incomplete relaxation

4. Good relaxation

5. Higher residual shrinkage

5. Lower residual shrinkage

6. Surface swelling

6. Complete swelling

7. Unevenness

7. Evenness

8. Tighter fibre packing

8. Looser fibre packing

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9. Firmer handle

9. Softer handle

10. Slow NaOH diffusion

10. Rapid NaOH diffusion

11. Less luster

11. Optimised luster

12. Less strongly swollen

12. Moderately swollen fibres

13. In surface zone of yarn

13. Throughout yarn cross section

14. Background less lustrous

14. Background equivalent luster

Drying Towers Drying towers are simple steam heated metallic rollers whose function is to dry out the fabric.

At NDF, after the mercerizing washings, there are one set of drying rollers and have total of 12 drying cylinders. These dyeing cylinders are heated with steam and their temperatures are 150oC.

Cooling Rollers Cooling rollers have water circulation in them. These rollers are called cooling rollers because they cause the cooling of fabric before it is wound onto the cloth roller.

3 . DYEING DEPARTMENT After the bleaching process has been completed the fabric is then moved to dyeing department. (Dyeing Of Cotton & Blend Of Cotton Ployester Fabric) DYEING 34 | P a g e

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It is defined as under:

“THE PROCESS THAT PRODUCES CHEMICAL OR PHYSICAL CHANGES IN THE SUBSTRATE, SO THAT THE REFLECTION OF LIGHT APPEARSCOLORS IS CALLED DYEING”

And the organic molecules that are responsible for bringing color on the textile substrates is called dyestuff. This phenomenon is based on the absorption of electromagnetic waves (light waves). Types of dyes used are: R E A C T I V E

D Y E S

(Remazol, Cibacron ,livafix, Drimarene)

Reactive dyes are unique as they are the only class of dyes that actually form chemical bonding with the textile fiber and this bonding gives excellent wash fast-ness properties. In reactive dye it reacts with fiber and makes a covalent bonding. Characteristics of Reactive Dyes Following are the common characteristics of reactive dyes. ➢ It is water-soluble dye ➢ Excellent light and wash fastness ➢ Fair color fastness to chlorine bleach 35 | P a g e

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➢ Crock fastness is fair to good ➢ Expensive ➢ Cold and hot dyeing depends on reactivity ➢ Fixation is due to covalent bonding of CELL—OH. ➢ Hydrolysis by OH➢ Neucleuophile substitution in reactive dye

Features of Reactive Dyes Following are the most important features of reactive dyes when applied on cotton fabric. ➢ Good fastness ➢ Good penetration ➢ Cheaper ➢ These are Azo free dyes ➢ Fixation through covalent bonding ➢ Posses all groups (chromophore, reactive group, auxochrome and solubilizing groups) V A T

D Y E S

(Cibanon, Indanthrene, China Vat Dyes)

The first synthetic vat dye was introduced in 1879 and named indigo. Vat dyes are insoluble in water and are anionic in nature. They are not easily applicable. They are made soluble in water by the use of strong reducing agents, which is sodium hydro sulphite with alkali such NaOH. Vat is Greek word it means wooden vessel .First these dyes are use in wooden vessel that’s way it is called vat . A series of dyes is called vat dyes. Vat dyes are very old type of dye used for cellulose fibers, yarn and fabrics dyeing. Vat dyes are found in nature and extracted form plants and animals. Due to its good fastness properties these are used very commonly. 36 | P a g e

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Vat dye constitutes a very important class of dyes for dyeing cotton and other cellulose fibers, which requires maximum wash fastness. Although vat dyes represent the highest standard of allround fastness among organic dyes, there exists a wide variation in their fastness properties; they provide a wide range of shades from yellow t blacks. Reason of Using Vat Dyes Following are the main reason for using vat dyes for cotton fabrics. ➢ Vat dyes are although insoluble in water, in dyeing they can be reduced to water soluble “leuco” compounds, which successfully dye the fiber. The “leuco” on the fiber is later oxidized back to the original insoluble dye. ➢ Consequently vat dyeing have a very high fastness to washing ➢ Have a high light fastness ➢ Are mainly applied to celluloses ➢ Hard to achieve bright shades ➢ Used on high quality curtains, furnishings, shirting, toweling ➢ Expensive in purchasing and require care in application

Characteristics of Vat Dyes Following are the main characteristics of vat dyes ➢ Water insoluble in water ➢ Anionic in nature ➢ Anhtraquinone based ➢ Most expensive ➢ Fastness is good to excellent ➢ Good affinity with cellulosic fibers ➢ Give dull color ➢ It is trapped into cellulosic fibers after oxidation ➢ It is not damaged in chlorinated water and gives good result 37 | P a g e

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D I S P E R S E

D Y E S

The disperse dye class is so named because there dyes are almost insoluble in water and are used as finely divided aqueous dispersion. Disperse dyes can be applied to nylon, cellulose acetate, acrylics and occasionally other fibers, but the major consumption is for dyeing of polyester. Disperse dyes are dye only class generally acceptable for dyeing of polyester and cellulose acetate.

Uses

Primarily for acetate - also tri acetate nylon, polyester, acrylics, mod acrylics, as well as cellulosic fibers. Wide use in apparel, decorative fabrics used for dyeing and printing.

Solubility

Insoluble in water

Ionic character

Non ionic in nature

Fiber affinity

All synthetics

Dye bath

Weak acidic dye bath

auxiliaries Light fastness

Fairs to excellent depending on fibers

Washing features

Fair to good better on polyesters than or acetate or nylons

Hot pressing

Some color change possible

Dry cleaning

Good

Staining

Stains wool badly

Perspiration

Good

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Crocking

Good

Sea water

Good

Characteristics of Disperse Dyes ➢ Nonionic in nature ➢ Insoluble in water ➢ In alkaline condition they are dissolved in water ➢ Fair to good light fastness ➢ Excellent washing fastness ➢ Posses small dye molecule

Dyeing Process A P P L I C A T I O N

M E T H O D S

There are two application methods, which are given below: ➢ Exhaust method ➢ Continuous method.

At Nishat Dyeing and Finishing Plant, Lahore (NDF), continuous dye application method is used so I will encircle myself to continuous dyeing method.

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Exhaust Method/ Batch Method

The application method in which solutes from solution are applied onto the substrate with the help of process parameters is called Exhaust method.

In exhaust application method all three-process phenomena are taken place at single stage. These three process phenomena are ➢ Adsorption, ➢ Absorption, and ➢ Fixation.

Continuous Application Method It is the method in which solutes from the solution are applied onto the surface of the fabric mechanically. Padder is used for adsorption and partially absorption. In continuous method four steps required that are given by: 1.

Padding

2.

Drying

3.

Fixation

4.

Washing or soaping

It means for continuous method above four stages are required at any cost which make cost very high.

Padding is always done at room temperature. After padding, fabric is passed through drying chamber and then proceeds towards fixation chamber. 40 | P a g e

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Color Kitchen

This section is responsible to prepare and provide the chemicals used in dyeing to the specific machines in desired quantity. A machine, TURBOELECTRONIC is used to give all the chemicals needed during dyeing automatically. The value of each chemical needed during dyeing depends upon the original recipe. Depending upon the recipe, the value of the chemicals is fed in turbo electronic which assists in feeding the chemicals to the desired machines in specific quantities. TYPES OF PRINTING

Printing Machine

Reggaini

126" 16 Color

Printing Machine

John Zimmer

110" 12 Color

Printing Machine

Stork

72" 16 Color

4. FINISHING DEPARTMENT There are very many finishing processes which can be applied to the woven cloth. One of the most basic is BLEACHING as the raw cotton has a grey appearance. You may have ancestors who give their census occupation as "grey room" hand. There is 100 % inspection in finishing department. STENTERING This is basically a smoothing out of the cloth. Because after bleaching, or any wet process, the cloth will get wrinkled or creased. Stentering (done by "stenterers") removes these bumps. Capacity of 1 stenter machine is 90 to 100 K per day.Ttwo stentering machines have capacity of 150 K per day. Then the packing capacity per day is 130 K per day.

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CALENDERING/ 3 STRENTRING MACHINE 3RD Strentring machine normally follows stentering and involves passing the cloth between heavy rollers padded with cotton. It can radically alter the final appearance of the cloth, giving a shine for example. "Calenderer" is often found as an occupation in the census. SANFORIZING Sanforizing is the process in which shrinkage of the fabric is controlled. There is a steve drum which moves anti clock wise. Fabric stays in this drum for some time. Then fabric passes through dryer. In this dryer through steam fabric get dry and press. Then felt absorbed all the moisturizer of the fabric. Then fabric passes through the cooling drums, so that the temperature of the fabric comes to normal temperature. AIRO MACHINE Airo stands for air, so the basic purpose of the machine is to pass air from fabric. The production capacity of this machine is less as compare to other finishes machinery. Speed of fabric passing is fast in airo as compare to other available machinery which is 300 M/Pm but per day capacity is low. In this machine fabric will rotate clock wise and we can add steam and softener in that process as per the requirement of the customer. We can perform the following tasks in airo machine which are as follows: 1. Steam beating 2. Pad, wet/ dry in airo. 3. Exhaust-soft 4. Enzyme wash.

ZIMMER CODING

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Pigments Function of Zimmer machine is to coat the fabric surface with screen we have two coatings knife coating and screen coating. We can adjust knife coating but screen coating can’t be adjusted.

PROCESS OF FINISHING 1. Application of finishes on fabric mechanical or chemical that depends on the customer demand. 2. Dyeing department. 3. We have 3 stenter machines for the application of chemical on fabric normal pad pressure would be two but can vary according to customer demand. Fabric can pass through thermostat and we can by pass this process as well according to customer demand. 4. Mahlo is the process in which we can check the skew ness and bowing of fabric. 5. After this fabric will pass through chambers we have 10 chambers. There is chain in chambers through that chain we can grip the fabric from both sides with this we can increase the width of fabric as well. These chambers use to dry the fabric and maximum temperature should be 210 degree centigrade if there is any problem in width size then we can resolve that problem here as well. 6. After that fabric will pass through cooling drums. 7. Fabric sample will send to lab for final checking for the finishing purpose and if they pass the fabric then it will go further. 8. After approval of lab fabric will send to sanfarizing for press and shrinkage control. In this machine sleve drum is for controlling the shrinkage and cool drum… 9. After sanfarizing fabric is ready for inspection and packing.

TYPES OF FINISHES 1. MECHINICAL FINISHES •

Flat finish.

•

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•

Double sanded finish.

•

Both side peach.

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Front flat, back peach.

•

Front flat, back raised.

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Front peach, back raised.

•

Front double sanded, back single peach.

•

Both side raised.

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Front raised.

•

Mole skin finish.

•

Front raise back peach.

•

Front peach, back double peach.

•

Lafer peach.

•

Lafer double peach.

•

Front lafer back side brushed/raised.

2. CHEMICAL FINISHES •

Procured finish.

•

Wrinkle free finish.

•

Non-branded Teflon.

•

Branded Teflon.

•

Procured non-branded Teflon.

•

Procured branded Teflon.

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Post cured.

•

Post cured non-branded Teflon.

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Post cure branded Teflon.

•

Easy care finish.

•

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•

Soil release finish.

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Silicon release finish.

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Water repellent finish.

•

Sugar finish.

•

Stiff finish.

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Pre-cured soil release.

•

Post-cure soil release.

•

Oil release finish.

•

Flame retarded.

•

Pigment dyed finish.

•

Blotch print.

•

Nano pel (water repellent).

•

Nano care finish.

•

Airo finish.

•

Advance Teflon.

•

Over dyed.

•

Hydrophic silicon.

•

Wat handle finish.

•

Silicon handle finish.

5.NISHAT DYEING & FINISHING LAB Lab is divided into two portions physical testing and color matching and chemical testing. Production planning/marketing department will send the fabric to lab for testing of according to the customer requirements. Lab is performing the following test in the NDF. PHYSICAL TEST TENSILE TESTER

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Purpose of this test is to check the fabric strength we fix the fabric in this machine warp or width wise as per customer demand and apply force on it the level where that fabric will break we just need to tell our customer about that.

TEAR TESTER In tear testing we will check that on which force the fabric will tear. We just need to put the sample fabric on machine and after applying the force note the level of that applied force and inform that thing to customer. CROCK METER In this test we can check the color fadedness of fabric we will put the fabric on machine and rub it with specific force. We will apply that test twice on fabric; first we will rub it normally on dry fabric then wet fabric rubbing will start. When the result will come we will send these samples or lab dips to customer for further details. UNIVERSAL AIR TESTER Its pealing test we will apply number of cycles on it to check the level of cycles after that fabric will get pealed and those cycles could be according to the customer demand or standard as well. LANDRO METER In this test we can check color fasting and staining through washing. We will wash the fabric according to the customer request and their method. SHRINKAGE TEST We have vaskater machine for this test this machine is for European clients we have separate machines for American and European customers. This machine’s temperature should be 60 degree

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home laundries depend on the customer demand which is 3 usually and final result of that test should 3%. QUICK WASH PLUS MACHINE We can use this machine for quick result the performance of this machine but result is not as much efficient or authentic. XENON FED-O-METER

Purpose of this machine to check the color fading of fabric we will set the temperature usually at 43 degree specific light will set on the fabric sample for specific time that light would be equal to day light and fabric will rotate in that machine for that set temperature in that specific light i-e GAP give 24 hours for this test. PHYSICAL TESTING PROCESS CONDITIONING ROOM Before every testing we need to put the fabric in conditioning room for 4 hours and temperature of that room should be 21 plus minus 1 degree centigrade. TENSILE TESTER This test is to find out fabric strength result can be in Kg, pounds demand from customer side is 75 pounds maximum but could not be less then 75. •

Method number 1 is ASTMD 5034 this method is use for normal fabric only in which we will

check the fabric strength and we will perform test separately for warp and weft result would be in pounds or neatens and Kg’s as well. •

Method number 2 is MTLS 1005 this test will measure strength and recovery collectively

manually on elongation board. •

Method number 3 is ASTMD 3107-03 this is for stretchable or lyecra fabric only result would

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ELMENDORF TEARING TEST This test is check the tearing strength of fabric, fabric should need too much force to tear off fabric method number for this fabric is ASTMD 1424. CROCK TEST

We have two machines for this test one for American and one for European customers. In this test we can check the color fad ness on fabric through rubbing that rubbing would be dry and wet. Method for Americans is AATCC-8 and for British customers its ISO 105X12. UNIVERSAL WEAR TEST The test which we can apply on this machine is pilling test on fabric method number is ASTMD 3514 and we apply 300 cycles on it for rubbing but that cycles can be vary according to customer demand. DARK ROOM •

Smoothness Test method number is AATCC 124 purpose for this test is to check that fabric should be wrinkle free and smooth after washing.

•

Kareez Test method is AATCC 88 in this kareez should not get loose after washing.

•

Stain/Soil Release method is AATCC 130 in this stain test the purpose is that stain should release from fabric after wash

LONDOMETRE The purpose is to wash multi fibers with the actual dyed fabric sample; size of that sample should be 5/15 CM to check shade change after washing and coloring on multifibers. Method number for this method is AATCC 612A. Multi fibers are asitale, cotton, nylon, pollster, allelic 48 | P a g e

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and wool. According to customer demand range of parameter can be change for detergent, steel bolls and heat.

DIMENTIONAL STABILITY/ SHRINKAGE TEST We can perform the test on wascator machine we will mark measurement on fabric and apply laundry on that sample according to customer demand and after wash scaling again on fabric to check the shrinkage. Dry method number is AATCC 124 and ISO 63305A specimen size can be change according to customer demand. OIL REPELLENCY TEST Method number for this test is AATCC 118 first finish will apply according to oil repellency to make fabric oil free and to check the result in lab. Drop of oil will put on the fabric and check it for 30 sec and also checking the quality of fabric result would generate in terms of standard from 1 to 6 and standard will apply from high to poor 1 indicate high quality and 6 indicate poor quality. WATER REPELLENCY TEST These are two types for this test which are as follows: Spray Test In this test we will apply water on it through spray for 20 to 30 sec method number for this test is AATCC 22. By Drop Test In this test we apply water on fabric through dropping and check the sustainability for 30 sec. water that we will apply on it have different standard from 1 to 6 we will use water standard according to customer request. PH TEST (POWER OF HYDRATION) Method number for this test is AATCC 81 for American customers and ISO 3071 for British customers. Purpose of this test is to control the quantity of chemical in finishing because its 49 | P a g e

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harmful for human beings. PH should be less then 4 to 5 % approximately for Americans it can be 5 to 9% and for Europeans it shouldbe 4 to 5% only. FARMALDEHYDE TEST Method number for Japanese customer is JIS 1041-B and for British customer is ISO 14184. It’s harmful for human beings finish post cure raising should be limited.

COLOR FASTNESS TO PERSPIRATION TEST Purpose of this test is to check color variation of fabric and sating after sweating for American customers the time is six hours 38 plus minus 1 degree C method number is AATCC 15 and British customer’s time is four hours. COLR FASTNESS TO LIGHT TEST Method number is E Xenon Lamp in this test we will put specific light on fabric

for specific

time i-e 20 hours and check the color fadness affect before and after that test to match the fadness. Light application time can be varying according to customer demand. Result would be in 1 to 6 standards. Method number for British customers is ISO 105B02 for blue wool fabric standard are from 1 to 8. Testing hours will be 20 if you require 4 on blue wool and 4 on sample then no requirements of time when blue wool 4 will equal to Greg sample standard 4 then test will be stopped. YARN NUMBER TEST Method number is ASTMD 1059 purpose of this test is to find out yarn counts/numbers in fabric according to warp and weft. Construction method is ASTMD 3775 this is to check the construction ends and picks of fabric. CONSUMPTION TEST Purpose of this test is to check fabric type method number for this test is AATCC 20/20 GSM TEST 50 | P a g e

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Purpose of this test is to check the Gram per meter square/weight of fabric methods number for this test is ASTDM 3776. CHANGE IN SKEWNESS TEST Purpose is to check the skew ness on fabric usually the acceptable skew ness is 3% result would be in percentage method number for this test is AATCC 179.

COLOR DEPARTMENT In color department all process of bleaching and dyeing are exist in small unit. •

Spectofoto meter.

•

Data Color. This is to check the difference between bulk production and sample usually for dyeing check on small scale.

•

Padding All process will perform on NDF Vs Customer commitment sheet if customer agree on that commitment sheet then whole order production follow that commitment sheet. WET LAB / COLOR MATCHING SECTION All textile industry use pantone book for shading sample will call as lab dip. Size of that lab dip will be 3/3” and we will allot reference number. In this section dip processes will usually apply on Nylon, polyester and Cotton only. Process of this section for sample would be: •

Data color laboratory dispenser in which we will mix colors according to requirement.

•

Padding machine add color in this machine and dye the fabric sample on padding machine.

•

Thermo sole in first chamber fabric will get dry in next chamber curing of color on fabric will take place.

•

Washing and pressing of fabric and process also complete here.

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Working Methodolgy At NAL Working at NAL starts off once inquires of customers are received by the centralized marketing department.Through correspondence and meetings with the customer, the marketing department understands customer’s requirement and preferences so that they can serve accordingly. The new product is handed over to the product development team for sample development. Approved orders are then transferred to production planning department, which initiates the order by verifying order specifications, planning the order schedule, arranging required materials and issuing cut, sewing and wash schedules. Paper sundries and labels are cut and printed in house. The fabric is cut according to the issued plan and sent to the sewing in packed and bar coded bundles. Based on product requirements, the garments are stitched and sent for washings. Sorted by wash requirements, the garments are trimmed, washed, pressed and packaged. Identification tags are placed and containers are loaded for shipment. All processes are based on strict standard minute values monitored by the industrial engineering department. Final shipping list and documents are prepared and order tracking details are sent to the customer. To ensure timely delivery, the exports department tracks shipment till they arrive at their destination. Indepth analysis of each department at NAL is described below.

1.Marketing Department The basic role of any marketing department in an organization is to market and sell its products by attracting customers and fullfilling their needs.However,at NAL marketing differs than convential one as merchanziding is incorporated in it as well.In other words it can be said

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NAL is following two-prone strategy.Firstly it is developing its own products i.e bottoms and markets it to customers all around the world and secondly it is making customzied products depending on the requirements of customers .The latter task done by marketing department of NAL is what we call merchandising:exhange of goods for an agreed amount of money. If we look at the merchandising in apparel industry, the goods exchanged will be the garments that are made to fulfill the needs of the buyer and the commercial activity will be the dealing with the buyer to sell the apparel products that fulfill the requirements and to make the delivery on time.However it involves active participation of a merchant in the fulfillment of a particular order. The following are the skills that observed are necessary to be in a person who wants to be a good merchandiser •

Sound judgement

•

Patience

•

Ability to memorise the details as much as possible

•

Decisiveness and maturity

•

Coordination with different departments

•

Ability to organize data and to make forms, reports and informative sheets to distribute in various departments

•

Ability to cope under pressure

•

Tough, business like approach

•

Excellent communication skills

•

Negotiation skills

•

Eye for detail

•

Excellent numerical skills

•

Ability to interpret data and figures and make commercial decisions based on them

•

Be self motivated

•

Have the ability to rise to a challenge

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2. PRODUCTION PLANNING IMPLEMENTAION & CONTROL-PPIC As an inquiry is received from customer,merchandizers contact PPIC in order to check whether NAL has the feasibility of fulfilling that particular order or not.One confirmation

is given the order is pursued.In this department all the planning is done that where and when the garments will move around. Major functions performed by PPIC department are listed below •

Preparing cutting plans & order summary sheet for ordering of the trims by calculating each & every trim per size/color and forward it to the Merchant and MMC department fir procurement.Bill of material is also generated which contains information such as Consumption ordering sheet (COS) which is received by the merchant in which fabric and thread requirements are finalized.Calculation of sewing trims (before wash trims) amd keeping records in sub store department.Calculation of packing trims (after wash trims).

•

Raising sales contract wise Fabric demand in oracle system and intimating to relative merchandisers and MMC personnels for verification and approval for timely procurement.

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After getting signed BOM,escalate item code for demand purpose.

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Analyze & compute fabric and trims requirement per style ,upon reciept of the PO and BOM from the merchant.

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Monitors,analyzes & reports performance to schedule of production & production support activities,utilizing information derived from material and production control systems.

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Coordinating / updating daily production status customer wise.

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Maintaining size wise data of Pos.

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Making customer wise analysis of production data on monthly basis.

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Giving line load plan for production line inductions.

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Giving line of action to sub-ordinates & controlling departments.

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Making everytype of report of concern area and providing to control office.

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Every document is maintained on daily basis.

3.PROCUREMENT DEPARTMENT NAL procurement department is also called material management and control department(MMC).Procurement department provide assistant to all departments regarding demands of other departments. Procurement department is subdivided in two divisions Fabric procurement and accessories procurement . ➢ Requisition from concern department or mill. ➢ Quotations received from market or suppliers. ➢ Making of comparative statement approved by Directors. ➢ Generation of purchase order. ➢ Supply received ➢ Generation of IGP (inward gate pass). ➢ Generation of SIR (store generation report). ➢ Generation of SRV (store receipt voucher). ➢ Verification from purchase order. ➢ Making of purchase voucher and payment. 55 | P a g e

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. PURCHASES OF PROCUREMENT DEPARTMENT Procurement department is involved in all process of stitching. This department arranges different kinds of material for instance

1. Garment (70 to 60 % fabric required ) •

Shell fabric

•

Pocketing Bags

2. Sewing threads 3. Buttons and rivets

4. woven accessories •

(label, back pack label, leather patch)

5. paper accessories •

(Care labels)

6. zipper 7. packing accessories •

(Poly sheets, poly bags, tapes)

8. Hangers

PROCESS OF PROCUREMENT Procurement department maintains its data into Oracle EPR System. 1. First of all BOM is received from merchandiser. In which garment quality, pocketing, fabric consumption, buttons, yarn consumption is mentioned. Merchandiser gives a dead line for procurement of this material. 2. Bulk purchases is demanded from PPC. 3. For sampling demand is raised from merchandiser. 4. Time lines are agreed. 56 | P a g e

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DOCUMENTATION IN PROCUREMENT DEPARTMENT 1. Comparative Statement 2. Demand purchase order 3. PO (Purchase order) 4. IGP (Invert gate pass) 5. Quality check 6. GRN (Goods received note) 7. Issue request

4.PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT Product development is a very important department of NAL, it assists in developing proto sample for the buyer considering all the relevant styles and requirements. According to the department incharge they have lead time which is usually very limited to complete and finalize a new development. This department settle all the stitching problem regarding development of a specific pair of bottoms, so that order can be confirmed and during production these problems may not hinder the production and hence can run smoothly.

Aims and Objectives •

Analyze and classify the products

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Develop samples considering NISHAT APPAREL’s capacity

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Provide technical information and support to operations (QA, PPC, operations)

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Coordination between marketing department & customers in terms of technical needs

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Handling

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Guidelines

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Automation

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Process improvement

The whole department of PD is divided as follows: 57 | P a g e

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5.SAMPLING DEPRTMENT Another unit that comes under PD department is sampling department. Merchandiser send sample request to sampling department according to customer requirement form will be filled by merchandiser according to the information received from customer. Process of sampling is as follows : 58 | P a g e

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SAMPLING PROCESS •

Request form merchandising.

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Development of base (manual marker).

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Digitizer (out line of sample with scanner on piece of paper).

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Transfer of that marker on system (we can adjust that marker according to different sizes as well).

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After that fabric will involve in this process we will apply different test on the fabric like shrinkage test after result of that test we just add that result on system. So marker will adjust according to the shrinkage level and other things are also adjust in it like if LCR is not clear then we have to add that feature in system so marker will adjust the measurement of cutting according to that because for LCR we have to cut the fabric according to the same color.

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IE industrial engineering department will involve after that and give all details about thread to merchandiser. Merchandiser will get information about fabric consumption from sampling department about thread from IE department and about cost from MM&C department.

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After marker making cutting will take place according to that marker.

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After cutting stitching will start according to customer given style and size.

TYPES OF SAMPLES: PROTO SAMPLE Proto sample is initial sample which we will send to our customer for fabric workmen ship, stitching, style etc. MARKETING SAMPLE Marketing sample is a sample which we produce for marketing purpose and send that sample to our different customer for getting business from them this sample will be according to our standards. 59 | P a g e

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SIZE SET Size Set is a sample in which customer send us different sizes of garments and we will send him random samples from that set size this sample will be free of cost for customer and cost will bear by company. This sample will be free of cost for customer. FIT SAMPLE Customer can demand that sample before approving the standard it’s a sample which customer demand as per the exact requirement. Customer will check the sample at his model to check that all things are fine enough or not size fitting and length etc. this sample is also free of cost for customer. Some time customer can consider this sample as PP (pre production) sample and give his order on this sample also. SALES MAN SAMPLE This sample is produce according to customer demand only in this case customer can order 100 pieces of sales man sample and customer will sale sample to end users just to check the response of his clients after using that samples if the feedback will be positive then he can order for bulk production. This sample is not free of cost and will pay by the customer. WASH APPROVAL SAMPLE In this wash approval sample we will wash the sample according to customer demand like denim, twill after stitching washes can be stone wash, enzyme wash etc. 6.QUALITY DEPARTMENT Fabric Inspection Department -FID Quality inspection starts from FID store it’s managed all material related to production like fabric, thread and all accessories required for production. This store is running under the control of finance department. GRN will be generated after receiving the fabric and other accessories. The working of FID starts from the different test of fabric like;

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Shrinkage Test.

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Shade Check (roll to roll checking).

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LCR (shade variation of fabric with in the roll).

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Width.

Sample size of fabric will be 25/25Cm after cutting the sample we will mark and then send to washing department for shrinkage, shade and LCR checking. If there is any difference in shade approved by supplier or buyer then before going a head we need to get approval from buyer again and we need to inform the customer about shade variation. Test are important in this part we check 100% for shrinkage, roll to roll 100% shade check and doing 10% checking of LCR (left center right) for shade checking with in the roll. Allocation of fabric for further production will take place after checking and inspection of fabric we will check skew ness of fabric on 4 to 5 rolls if found any error whole fabric will send back to supplier for rectification basic inspection of fabric which we are doing here is 10% about weaving and construction of fabric. Summary report will generate by quality department about all activities that quality people do in FID send to the following departments with the siNishat Apparelture of the manager: •

GGD.

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Cutting.

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Store.

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Merchandising.

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PPC (production planning & control).

SET SIZE MAKING The purpose is to take different sizes and make it for trial runs for checking the fabric behavior on different sizes. Fabric will be treated after the FYD report after the result for rigid fabric the maximum standard shrinkage is 3X3.

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CUTTING In cutting all things will be done according to the QA report while in spreading the width, shrinkage and shade will be considered a lot. Quality people have to check that amendment should be according to their report they need to add all test reports during marker making and cutting. Quality people will check shrinkage and shading during spreading, marking making one person is stay on auto cutter to check that. Total numbers of people in QA department are 115. SEWING CAD have to check the patterns, measurement, placing and sewing lines. DHU is chart where we put all problems in particular operations problem should not exceed 2.5. Sewing report will come to QA manger after every two hours. The DHU should not exceed 5% in one section if its more then this then it should be fixing timely. WASHING QA department will check the production at every level first batch report checking is 10%. Terming will cure before or after washing specially QA will conduct audit after terming as per 25% standard. If the audit is ok then it will send to buttoning department. We use standard thread for stitching normally use JP after buttoning and clipping first piece will send to QA manager if the first piece will get approved then whole lot production will start. After button attachment garment will send to pressing department and bulk production will start after one piece inspection. FINISHING In finishing two teams are working production team and QA team after pressing all order will be check by QA people 100%.

6.Industrial Engineering

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Industrial engineering is a branch of engineering concerned with the development, improvement, implementation and evaluation of integrated systems of people, money, knowledge, information, equipment, energy, material and process. It also deals with designing new prototypes to help save money and make the prototype better. Industrial engineering draws upon the principles and methods of engineering analysis and synthesis, as well as mathematical, physical and social sciences together with the principles and methods of engineering analysis and design to specify, predict and evaluate the results to be obtained from such systems. In manufacturing systems, Industrial engineers work to eliminate wastes of time, money, materials, energy, and other resources. IE NISHAT APPAREL has 6 Main functions which are as follows: 1. Recruitment and training 2. Layouts 3. Production incentive training system(PITS) 4. Costing 5. Specs 6. Engineering

7.Cutting Department Cutting department plays a vital role in the quality and production of any garment producing facility, same in the case of NISHAT APPAREL. This department is divided into 3 separate divisions which are as follows: •

Pattern making

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Cutting

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Printing

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Cut plan

It is a document which gives a direction to the cutting department as to how much quantity to be cut, which fabric to be used how it should be cut, how many lays to be spread, etc. Cut plan is the pre production planning of the cutting department; this is done by production planning and control, in consultation with the cutting team. It is the most important step since fabric utilization and efficiency depends upon it. It determines how the marker will be set, Fabric is issued as per the cut plan, and it all is done at the beginning of order. Cut Plan Includes: 1. Number of cuts, 2. Colors to be cut, 3. Layers to be cut, 4. Schedule of cutting, 5. Type of Markers, 6. Number of Markers to be made for the cut, 7. Utilization of the cut (fabric), 8. Type of spread 9. Dye-set of the fabric Necessary Elements which can change the Cut Plan: •

Fabric width, wider the fabric the better the consumption,

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Size and Ratio,

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Grain line

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Shrinkage allowance,

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Length of cutting table, the longer the marker the better the utility,

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Cutting method, will increase or decrease the wastage

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Patterns if seam allowance is taken appropriate,

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Marker Efficiency % of waste, 64 | P a g e

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Marker accuracy- width of plotted line

Scheduling Data This document includes: •

No. of cut

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No. plies

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Marker name to each cut

Pattern Amendment Patterns are amended as per requirement due to shrinkage and other variants, in this process implementation of decisions made by the cutting team re implemented on the patterns.

Marker making It is the most important function of cutting department, in this process patterns are set on the imaginary fabric layer on the Gerber marker software in such a way that it can achieve maximum efficiency, i.e. maximum utilization of fabric, reducing wastages. For this function minimum of 1 cm allowance is given on the both sides of the fabric width with no walling on any single side. Splice marks, length of the fabric to be spread in one layer and no. of plies are also decided.

Gerber power process (GPP) It is a tool to define the sequence of cutting a marker. This software can automatically decide a sequence for the marker or it can be done manually as well as per requirement. This increases the efficiency of the cutting machine.

Fabric procurement Fabric is procured from inventory according to the dye set, fabric name & code. Then fabric rolls are loaded on the stand. 65 | P a g e

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Spreading •

Spreader checks; length, width, and fabric code & number of plies to be spread.

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Splice report; according to which splice marks are marked on the table on specific distance.

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Faults are checked at every layer, and marked or removed.

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If faults are in whole width then fabric is cut.

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If faults are in middle then it is marked.

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If faults are in length then decision is made according to length, if length is long then fabric piece is cut& used in the end, if length is small then it is marked only.

Cutting •

At 1st cut no. and file no is confirmed then cutting incharge starts cutting.

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Cutting machine has two main parts, 1 st is control 2nd is the cutting machine.

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The marker and all the required details are fed into the control panel which then controls the machine.

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The speed and vacuum suction pressure is set by the operator.

Machinery NAL has 3 cutting machines: Gerber cutter’s (1 machine) •

Approximately 3 to 3.5 meter length can be cut at once.

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It has 8inches long blade,

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It has a cooling device to cool down the temperature of blade while cutting.

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Fabrics made of blends with synthetics can also be cut.

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It is a high speed machine.

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It is used where bulk production is needed.

Assyst/Bullmer Procut XL 7501 (two machine) •

Approximately 3 meters cutting length,

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Slower then Garber cutter

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It has 8 inches long blade,

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It faces difficulty while cutting hard fabrics, 66 | P a g e

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It gives very good quality

Cutting Bed •

It is made up of Nylon bristles,

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A uniform suction device is installed under the bed,

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It also posses conveyer belts.

Bundling Every cut cake is given a name and sequence number, and all other required details such as marker no., size no., bundle quantity etc.

Numbering Same numbering is done on both the panels of pair. Faults Faulted panels are separated and repaired, which were marked during spreading. Small parts A bundle sticker is attached to the small part and sent to the WIP, where small parts of same bundles are assembled in one bundle and sent to sewing. Label It contains following information. 1. Barcode 2. Bundle no. 3. Marker no. 4. Inseam shrinkage, 5. Cut no. 6. Size, 7. Cut sequence no. 8. Quantity 9. Pattern shrinkage. 67 | P a g e

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Types of cutting losses End loss Wastage due to fault in length of fabric is called end loss Buffer loss Distance between two patterns or panels are given as a buffer to get accurate cutting is also counted as a waste. Remnant loss Length of the fabric left from a roll which cannot complete a pattern is taken out of layers is called remnant loss. Side loss Allowance is given on both sides of fabric width which wastes almost 2cm width along the length of whole fabric lay, such waste of fabric is called side loss. Marks loss During spreading if due to a fabric fault or roll end fabric has to be spread, it starts from a splice mark, operator always starts spreading 2 to 3 cm behind the splice mark, this loss is termed as marks loss.

Cutting Procedure Cutting will take place after completion of all inspection of fabric at FYD after satisfaction of fabric then fabric will issued to cutting department. Cut order plan translates customer order into cutting order. It is the process that coordinates customer order with all variables of marker making, spreading and cutting to minimize total production cost and meet customer demands timely. The process which is followed in cutting department is as follows: Receiving of fabric in cutting department after completion of all inspections from FYD the receiving will take place with documents. MARKER MAKING

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A marker is a diagram of a precise arrangement of pieces for a style and size to the best utilization of fabric and pieces to be cut from a single layer. We have two auto cutters in NISHAT APPAREL after spreading of fabric next step is marker making it’s the process of pattern making and cutting plan on those fabric layers marker is the diagrammatical paper on that paper all cuttings are marked through computers marker will design according to demand of customer. Cutting will depend on three things length, width and shrinkage we just need to put all required information in system during marker making then system will adjust those things in marker. PLOTTING Plotting is the process of drawing or printing pattern pieces or markers on papers so they can be reviewed or cut. There are two types of plotters flat bed plotters and ink jet plotters. FABRIC SPREADING Fabric is spreaded on tables with the help of machines during spreading the operators and quality persons will check the faults on fabric as well and spreading will do according to the adjustment. The tables on which the fabric will spread consists air sucker machines in it with the help of that fabric will stick with table during cutting and will not move easily. CUTTING Cutting is the preproduction process of spreading a spread into garment parts that are of precise size according to the size and shape of pattern pieces on a marker. There are two types of cutting manual cutting and auto cutting we have four spreaders and two auto cutting machines. Auto cutter will follow manual paper sheet which we have produced on plotters and machine will follow floppy also. One layer length wise contains 14 pieces and total spread of fabric is 80 layers per day cutting capacity is 40,000 garments marker will spread on fabric layers. We prefer manual cutting for short time adjustment other wise we usually cut the fabric through auto cutters. BUNDLING After cutting garments parts must be prepared and organized for sewing operations. Bundling is a process of removing cut parts from cutting table counting, grouping, same panels will tie up 69 | P a g e

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together and bundles will send to numbering area. Bundles will keep in shelves according to the allotted numbers after completion of bundling the panels will send to numbering area with the receiving of that area supervisor on paper. EMBROIDERY After cutting of panels and allotment of numbers in numbering area fabric will send to embroidery department according to customer demand i-e any design or for logo. We have four embroidery machines in this department collective department out put is 4000 pieces machine are automatic labor is working there as helping hand only. Fusing application is take place on auto machine. PP (PRE PRODUCTION) APPROVAL In PPA all things like fabric construction wise style stitching size each and every thing will stitch according to the customer demand same as bulk order. Their pre production samples need to get approved by customer before starting bulk production. BULK CUTTING After the approval of PPA bulk production will start and customer can demand one sample from bulk production also. For bulk production we will make 50 to 100 pieces and discuss the result in PP meeting (prior to bulk meeting) in that meeting merchandiser, account manager, sampling person, quality and concern people from production will also present in that meeting. Agenda of that meeting is to discuss the result of that final garments and problem solving. FABRIC CONSUMPTION SHEET Request for fabric consumption sheet will receive from merchandiser that form consists order number, contract number, article number, style number, customer name, fabric code and construction, fabric width and weight i-e 57” workable with in selvage, consumption i-e 100 cotton and length of inseam and out seam.

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First thing is segregation of line according to design and brand time to time. SMV standard minute vale according to costing of fabric and garment according to per hour and per day. PROCESS OF STITCHING BACK SECTION/ BACK PANEL 1. Join back York. 2. Back York out line (top stitch) FOA. 3. Join back rise. 4. Top stitch on back rise. 5. Back pocket hem. 6. Back pocket Irion. 7.

Back pocket attach position mark.

8. Back pocket attach if required time for this step is 1.5 then we can vary the persons according to required time. 9. Back pocket secondary stitch marking help operation. 10. Back pocket secondary stitch. 11. Attachment of size label. 12. Bar Teck on back pocket. 13. Inspection of back panel.

FRONT SECTION 14. Sew front coin pocket hem. 15. Coin pocket P facial mark. 16. Front point pocket attach double needle stitch. 17. Front pocket facing edge over lock (three threads over lock). 18. Front pocket facing attach to pocket back. 19. Front pocket close with three threads over lock.

20. Front pocket inward turn top stitch. 21. Front pocket top stitch. 71 | P a g e

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22. Front pocket attach to front panel. 23. Top stitch on front pocket open. 24. Stay noch side top and bottom tucking. 25. Fly facing edge over lock. 26. Fly box over lock. 27. Front rise over lock. 28. Fly facing attach and top stitch. 29. Help operation “J” stitch marking. 30. Zipper attaches to fly facing. 31. Sew “J” stitch. 32. Fly fox and panel attach. 33. Top stitch croch. 34. Front panel inspection.

ASSEMBLY 35. Helper match front and back panel according to numbers. 36. Sew inseam. 37. Join/Sew out side seam five thread over lock. 38. Stitching hip line. 39. Help operation waste band marking. 40. High low mark for waste band attachment. 41. Waste band attachment. 42. Inspection of panel. 43. Help operation waste band open for close. 44. Waste band corner close left and right. 45. Sew button hem. 46. Bar teak on fly J inseam. 47. Mark for loop placement. (help operation) 48. Loop making. 49. Waste band loop attach. 50. Final inspection. 72 | P a g e

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Quality checking persons are two is doing final checking and the other one is checking during process and one is checking the final garment. 9.GARMENT WET PROCESSING GWP is divided into following sections: •

Inventory

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Marking

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Local abrasion

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Sand blasting

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Wrinkling

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Washing

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Spray area

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Rescreening

Inventory This is the section where all the garments arrive from sewing department, it has following main functions: •

Receive, count & store each style separately

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Provide garments to the concerned party e.g. (whiskering supervisor)

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Retrieve full quantity after processing from concern party

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Local Abrasion This section is further divided into the following: •

Whiskering

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Scrapping

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Knots and cable tying

Whisker In this section whiskers are imparted on the garment manually; imposed surfaced frames are prepared for each type of whisker style and provided to operators who also receive a sand paper which they use to impart whiskers. Lighter sand paper is usually used in whiskering comparatively. Scrapping In this section of local abrasion, garments are scraped manually using heavier sand papers. They have two types of machines, both differs in operators working directions, each has gas tubes which holds and flattens the garment tightly but in horizontal or vertical direction respectively, so the worker has to operate on either work on horizontal standing position or in vertical bending position. Knotting or Cable tying Knotting and tying is also done in this section. Knotting is done on Denison machine while cable tying is done manually.

Sand blasting In this area garment is given another effect, sand is sprayed with high air pressure on the garment which wears off the color, damage the fabric surface and gives it a sandy shade.

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Grinding

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Resin

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PP Spray

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Grinding This small section is allocated for grinding purposes. It also includes grinding machines which are used to grind small or required area of garment to be grinded. Resin Resin is applied on the garment to get it stiff; it is usually applied in three different ways which are as follows: •

Spray

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Dipping in resin solution

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Applied through brush

PP Spray Potassium permanganate spray is applied on the garment to fade the dyes of garment; it will show less effect on the contacted area, due to the hindrance of size on garment. it is an oxidizing agent, it is very cheap.

Wrinkling On the desired areas of garment wrinkles are made and then cured. There are different types, 1 st is that a resin dipped garment is wrinkled and cured by hanging them in the curing oven, where garment is passed through a drying hot chamber, 2 nd way is that, the area of a garment where wrinkles are required is made wet and treated with temperature of 250˚C and in the 3rd way garment is given pressure to sete wrinkles.

Washing Area Washing is most important function of GWP; it is divided in the following:

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Staging

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Stone Washing

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Washing

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Drying

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Staging This section of washing where garments are received by the from the GWP inventory directly or after local abrasion, according to the requirements. Then these are separated according to required wash. Garment are then weighed as per load requirement and separated ton be taken be washing operators on demand. Stone Washing It is done for contrast formation on the fabric surface, It also creates hairiness on fabric surface.It is done by abrasion through washing with stones or enzymes or combination of both. Stones basically give an uneven contrast while enzymes give an even look on the fabric. Stones used for this purpose are called peumic stones which are less dense than water as they float in the water and enzymes used to abrade VACUMAX A326; this solution also includes a wetting agent.

De-Rocking Machine This machine is used to separate the stone from garment. Garments are put from one side and as it revolves rocks are separated and the garment is taken from the other side.

Washing For every style different types of washing techniques are followed in this area, sometimes garments are sent for PP spray before even desizing, sometimes garments are washed then sent to spray area and sometimes garments are washed just once and sent to the next process. Some of the terminologies used for processing in the washing area of GWP are as follows: •

1st wash

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Over Dying

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Ozone treatment

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1st wash First wash is said to be done when garments are washed before spray of resin or KMno4, then it is sent to PP spray area and retrived for second wash again. In this type of washing the fading effect of PP spray is more prominent. 2nd wash Second wash is said to be done when garments are first given PP spray, resin or wrinkles then washed it could either washed before PP spray or directly sent to the spray area and washed once after processing. In the second wash garments are neutralized as to remove the effect of PP. as PP is a oxidizing agent so it is neutralized by reducing agent, which is Na2S2O3 (sodium metabisulphite).Then it is extracted and sends to the drying chamber. Over Dying In this garment made by the gray fabric are over died, at 1 st Desizing is done then dying is done by Reactive dyes. Reactive dyes react with cotton and makes covalent bond, which is very strong bond, so dye don’t bleeds easily, then it is sent for drying.

Ozone Treatment After washing garment are treated with ozone for 5 minutes. Ozone has a special effect of aging, and garment seems old. Ozone breaks into O2 and O. O is very reactive and gives the fabric an old look. It is not much used as ozone is harmful for human health.

Drying Garments are taken for drying after washing, there were two types of dryers in NISHAT APPAREL which are as follows: 77 | P a g e

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Gas Drier

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Steam Drier

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Gas Drier This Drying method is performed by hot air for required time and temperature. Garments with the contents of synthetics, such as Lycra or polyester are dried at less temperature so they are not recommended for this type of drying. Steam Drier This Drying method is done by hot steam, it dries the garments and also used to control the +ve shrinkage of the garments.

Rescreening It is the last process of garment manufacturing, here garment are 100% checked for any faults, pressed packed and audited. Here in this department, if any faults are found in garment it is sent to rework. It is the critical point of order. In this department following steps are followed: 1st step: daily input schedule is made and posted on the main input board, this scdule includes the following details: •

Order no.

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Wash no.

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Cut no.

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Quantity.

2ND STEP: loads of garments are set in the WIP area in the lines. 78 | P a g e

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3rd step: Then these garments are pressed on vapor press machine; There are 4 machines in one line. It presses the garment with steam and air. Steam is applied for 8sec and then air for 8 sec. waist and inseam length can also be adjusted. 4th step: Then top and bottom areas of the garment are pressed with ROTON DI Top press machine. There are two machines in each line. Here pressing is done with steam and pressure.

5th step: Then garments are100% inspected on the table. All the faults of fabric, sewing, washing, trims and label are checked of each garment. If any fault is found, a code of that fault is written on a paper and inserted into the pocket of the garment. Production quality depends upon this area. Operator checks 50 garments per Hour. And there are 6 tables for checking in each line. 6th step: Then there are two machines in mending for each line. There is a mender and helper on each machine. They remove the faults from the garments, such as of sewing. If not, then it is removed in reworking area. 7th step: Then there is selvage table, where a verifier checks fabric faults and makes a selvage report, which includes following type of faults: •

White line

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Dark line

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Full length fabric line

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Knots

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Fabric faults

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GWP faults

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Sewing faults

8th step: Then there is mending verifier, who rechecks the faulted garments to verify the mending. If repaired garment is ok, then it is graded as 1st, if not then 2 nd. 9th step: Then there is Denison machine on which Tags, stickers, flashers, and vender mark are attached. Also leg size stickers and hang tags are attached. 79 | P a g e

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10th step: B grade garment are handed over to 2 nd grader who send them to rework area, where these are repaired then he rechecks them and grade them again according to fault removed. If faults are prominent and not acceptable by the customer then garment is graded as 2 nd even after rework. 11th step: Then there is online quality checker, who checks 8Pcs from each bundle. If bundle is OK then it is ready for Packing. Every garment from rework area is 100% checked at this point. 12th step: Then packing of garments is done. There are two operators, 1 st is packing verifier. He unpicks the cut label and folds the garment after checking. 2 nd operator is boxer he packs the garment into the box according to the size of garment. Rework: This area is divided into two parts. In 1 st part faulted products are repaired to make them 1st grade, if possible. There are number of machine for this process. In 2 nd part, those garments whose trim and sundries are attached after washing are attached. These garments are around 30% of the total production. 10.WASHING DEPARTMENT 1.

Sampling department receives request from marketing department.

2.

Washing department receive request from sampling department with written request and sample.

3.

required wash is applied.

4.

sample and sample garment will be sent to merchandiser. At one time NISHAT APPAREL sends 3 to 4 samples to the customer to show other washing effects on the same garments.

TYPES OF WASHES NISHAT APPAREL provides different types of washes for denim and twill. DENIM 1. Rinse wash 2. Enzyme wash 80 | P a g e

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3. Enzyme stone 4. Bleach wash 5. Super bleach 6. Reducer wash 7. Tint wash 8. Over dying 9. Raisen wash TWILL 1. Softer silicon wash 2. Enzyme wash 3. Stone enzyme

11.WIP (WORK IN PROCESS) After counting WIP sends garments from stitching to washing. WIP sends a request form to stitching for garment issue for washing. Same as they keep record in washing as well. WIP will receive sample and garments from washing and keep receipt in record. WIP sends all garments to the finishing department. MACHINES Tonello

5/10

4 washing machines

200 capacity

Tonello

4/20

2 washing machines

200 capacity

Tonello

3 dryers

Mino

2

FINAL FINISHING EFFECTS There are some final effects available for instance, Rubbing effect, it is a dry process. It also called sand process. We do rubbing through this process. There are 2 barrels machine for this process. There is one curing oven for permanent wrinkle 81 | P a g e

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12.FINISHING DEPARTMENT First of all fabric comes out from stitching line. Garment goes for washing then they come to finishing department. There are some procedures to be followed.

1. Style and color wise counting 2. Loop cutting 3. Trimming section 4. Audit QA 5. Marking for button 6. Button section 7. Rivet 8. Button rivet checking 100 % 9. Pressing (ironing)(hard + normal) 10. Checking 100 % if rejected send to alteration 11. Final audit (Super final audit) 12. Measurement for sizes+ Final audit 100 %

13.PACKING DEPARTMENT Packing department is very important department.Since packing requirements are also sent by customers so proper intiatives are to be taken while finally packing the garments to be dispatched. Packing department receives garments order wise and style wise and then they do segregation according to the following 1. Size

Price Tag

2. Style

Size Tag

3. Brand

Different Tags

All kind of buckles will be fixed and closed to forward the garments to the packing department. FINAL PACKING 82 | P a g e

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There are two types of packing 1. Solid Packing 2. Ratio Packing

SOLID PACKING In this packing just 1 solid color and 1 solid size will be packed. It will go in one packing. RATIO PACKING In ratio packing different sizes of one color and design will be packed in one carton according to the customer requirement. One carton will consist of five different sizes and 24 pieces. All the information will be provided in purchase order. According to the carton size packing department will pack the garments. PACKING TYPES PLASTIC PACKING 1. Checking 2. Ratio 3. Small poly bag(one garment in one bag) 4. Master poly bag (almost 13 garments in one bag) 5. Sticker for information of ratio 6. One poly bag will go in one poly bag 7. All information is already printed on carton but another sticker will be attached to the carton for ratio, color, and style information.

THINGS WE LEARNED

Tech-Sheet

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Tech sheet is actually a set of sheets that is given by the buyer to the industry. The merchandiser looks on the sheets to start the work. This set of sheets contains all the necessary information regarding the order and the designs given by the buyer. It contains the information which includes the specification sheet, design of the garment, details of button, zipper, trims and all other accessories, sizes and measurements, embellishments, washing, information about fabric and thread, color schemes and codes, stitch details etc. The information which is not present in the sheet and is necessary for the processes can be asked by the buyer mostly by e-mail. A good merchandiser is the one who carefully reads all the details in this sheet.

Fabrics And Threads When the work is to start, the first and the most important thing that is very essential is the details of fabric and thread. The merchandiser first asks for the fabric and thread. When they are available for the use then the work is started. Fabric and thread are the first things to be seen. Style Number Style numbers are very important. To every design a unique style number is given. Then all the work is done by remembering the number as there are many styles running at the same time. Each department uses this number to talk on a particular garment. Designs Designs are created from the buyer side and buyer then gives them to industry. These designs are sketched on the tech sheet and can be studied in detailed. The designs having more embellishments are the intricate ones. Some designs have more than one zipper (can be on the back pockets). Some designs have different and unique buttons, stickers, washeffects, belt loops etc. They must be carefully studied. Trim Cards

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Trim cards are the cards in which details regarding trims and accessories are written. They are made by the merchandisers. Labels, buttons, threads, etc are attached and their respective details are written on them. The style numbers are also written on them for the reference. Invoice It includes rate of a single unit, purchase order, date etc. Purchase of Buttons, zippers, Trims and Other Accessories These are the things which are brought in later. The order of these things is placed earlier

and they arrive after few days as they are of use in the later processes. We saw that buttons were being ordered by Chinese manufacturer. Separate list and database of each thing are made by the merchandiser. These database contain the date, style number, number of pieces required, color details etc. Color Matching The color of button and zipper is very important. We look for the color of these things in the tech sheet. There, the color of the button, zipper and the fabric strip behind the zipper is mentioned. If not, then we have to search and match with the body color of the garment. There are some codes which are then seen against their names in the special books (Pantone and SAB). Progress Report In progress report proper schedule is made of the progress of line of production on each area/position (cutting, stitching, washing, finishing etc). Date and time is included in that schedule to know the exact time required in the shipment. Packaging List In packaging list details of the cartons and poly bags are included. Details contains:

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•

Size and number of poly bags required

•

Print on poly bags

•

Size of carton

•

No of carton

•

Print on carton

Proper schedule is given to finishing department about the packaging so that finishing department members pack the garment according to the requirement. Clearing of queries from the buyer Details and queries are exchanged from the buyer from important updates and feedbacks from buyer through emails. This helps the merchandiser to supply accurate and perfect garments to the buyer. Washing details Details are given to the washing department about the washes required on the garment and additional affect given to garments. Production Samples The following are different types of samples we make in our way to complete the order. 1. Prototype sample It is the very first sample that is made. In this the main focus is the styling and designing only. It is made and sent to buyer for approval. Buyer gives comments on it. 2. Advertisement sample In advertisement sample, sample are made in few quantity and send it to the buyer. Buyer then put that sample in the show room and from the sales and feedback of the customer they place order in huge quantity. 3. Fit sample

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This sample is made in order to check if the measurements are correct or not on the particular style required by the buyer. Tolerances in the measurements are allowed up to a certain level at this stage. 4. Testing sample This is not necessary is only done if the buyer requires certain tests. For ex.

Zipper test, Lead test, Shrinkage test etc. 5. Preproduction sample Has everything actual: fabric, prints, embroidery, accessories tags etc. It’s the complete garment as per required by the buyer. Production can’t start until and unless preproduction sample gets approved. 6. Top of production sample Also known as shipment sample is sent before actual shipment is sent. Process that we learned ➢ Tech sheet is received from the buyer. ➢ Study the tech sheets thoroughly, each and every detail. ➢ After studying the tech sheet, if there is any queries ask it from the buyer. ➢ Ask details of how to measure. ➢ From the tech sheet, order the fabric, trims and accessories for making samples. ➢ Make prototype and advertisement sample. ➢ Send it to buyer. ➢ Receive the corrections to be done, mentioned by the buyer after the dispatch of the samples. ➢ Cross check the requirements given by the buyers about the sample. ➢ Make another sample, send it to buyer. ➢ Finalization of the sample and order (some designs will be rejected and some will be accepted to work on). ➢ Order fabric, trims, accessories, poly bags, cartons etc.

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➢ Threads and buttons are ordered according to the pantone number given by buyer. ➢ First, fabric and thread will be received as they are the most important stuffs. ➢ Cutting and stitching will be started. ➢ Buttons, special belt loops, labels etc will be received in the later stage as they are to be used afterwards. ➢ Progress report is made and updated every week. ➢ After stitching, garments are sent to the washing and finishing department. ➢ Cartons and packaging stuffs are made ready. ➢ Packing is done. ➢ Shipment process is done.

1. Marketing department receives inquiry from customer. Customer sends Tec pack, and requires costing and sampling. 2. Customer and merchandiser do negotiations on costing, sampling, quantity. 3. PPC and merchandiser work out on delivering the order and last date.

Marketing department sends different samples to the customer to get approval. PROTO SAMPLE Proto sample is initial sample which we will send to our customer for fabric workmen ship, stitching, style etc. MARKETING SAMPLE Marketing sample is a sample which we produce for marketing purpose and send that sample to our different customer for getting business from them this sample will be according to our standards. SET SIZE

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Set size is a sample in which customer send us different sizes of garments and we will send him random samples from that set size this sample will be free of cost for customer and cost will bear by company. This sample will be free of cost for customer. FIT SAMPLE Customer can demand that sample before approving the standard it’s a sample which customer demand as per the exact requirement. Customer will check the sample at his model to check that all things are fine enough or not size fitting and length etc. this sample is also free of cost for

customer. Some time customer can consider this sample as PP (pre production) sample and give his order on this sample also. SALES MAN Sample This sample is produce according to customer demand only in this case customer can order 100 pieces of sales man sample and customer will sale sample to end users just to check the response of his clients after using that samples if the feedback will be positive then he can order for bulk production. This sample is not free of cost and will pay by the customer. WASH APPROVAL SAMPLE In this wash approval sample we will wash the sample according to customer demand like denim, twill after stitching washes can be stone wash, enzyme wash etc.

OTHER DEPARTMENT OF NAL NAL consists of the following departments : 1. Accounts Department. 2. Finance Department. 3. Human Resource Department. 4. Administration department. 5. Audit Department. 89 | P a g e

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6. Information Technology Department.

➢ ACCOUNTS DEPARTMENTS

Account department is the key to success for any company. Accounts department in NAL is working efficiently to make the company operations run smoothly. The accounts department is managed by AM, Accounts Manager. Then there are 8 subordinates performing their jobs.

Functions of accounts department are as follows: ➢ Bookkeeping. ➢ Vouching. ➢ Journalization. ➢ Classification/Ledgers. ➢ Summarizing/ Trial balance. ➢ Schedule up dation of financial reports. ➢ Tax calculation and deductions. ➢ All financial dealing regarding import an export. Number of units operating in NAL comes under accounts department such as gate office,recipet room and main store. Gate Office Gate office is a very important part of NAL as it keeps a check and documents goods coming in and going out of the factory .This very unit comes under the accounts department.The basic functions of gate office can be classified as follows: 1. Check Invoice 2. Check Documents 3. Compare Air Way Bill 90 | P a g e

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4. Verify PO provided by MMC 5. Generation of Inward Gate Pass (IGP) 6. Verification of Outward Gate Pass Gate Office Process Flow When goods are ordered by MMC upon their arrival before they can be inducted into fabric store or main store the goods quantity must be verified and it must be made sure that all documentation is complete. Gate Office first checks the invoice of the arrived goods and compares it with the PO generated by MMC. If the document are complete and as per the PO a IGP (inward gate pass) is generated and the goods are allowed to come in for physical inspection by the Receipt Room. In case of samples or Shipment going out of NAL the Gate Office verifies the gate pass and checks that the quantity going out must be as per approved gate pass. If any discrepancies are found they must be removed and approved by the concerned H.O.D. Receipt Room Receipt Room is also a part of goods inspection and verification. But the difference here is that all goods are physically verified before they can be inducted in the stores. Duties of Receipt Room: 1. Generating Goods Inspection Report (GIN) 2. Trim Card for approval of goods received Process Flow of Receipt Room Receipt Room generates a GIN upon the physical verification of goods and makes a trim card of the received goods. The trim card is then sent to the concerned merchant who matches them with the desired order. Upon approval the GIN is signed by MMC and the goods are inducted in the factory Stores.

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➢ FINANCE DEPARTMENT

Functions of finance department are as follows: ➢ Project financing which includes feasibility making, financial projections & financial plan, which include generations of funds regarding projects. All findings present to board for approval and then decision for equity generation internal or external generations. ➢ Working capital management, planning for day-by-day needs, planning for any shortage of budget any arrangement of finance from different financial institutions. ➢ Negotiations with banks regarding export and import are done as per instructions of CFO. ➢ HUMAN RESOURCE DEPARTMENT Human resource department is a vital one in any organization as it directly manages one of the key components of these organization i.e. human resource .Human Resources department set strategies and develop policies, standards, systems, and processes that implement these strategies in a whole range of areas. The following are typical of a wide range of organizations:

•

Maintaining awareness of and compliance with local, state and federal labor laws

•

Recruitment, selection, and on boarding (resourcing)

•

Employee recordkeeping and confidentiality

•

Organizational design and development

•

Business transformation and change management

•

Performance, conduct and behavior management

•

Industrial and employee relations

•

Human resources (workforce) analysis and workforce personnel data management

•

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•

Training and development (learning management)

•

Employee motivation and morale-building (employee retention and loyalty)

Implementation of such policies, processes or standards may be directly managed by the HR function itself, or the function may indirectly supervise the implementation of such activities by managers, other business functions or via third-party external partner organizations. Applicable legal issues, such as the potential for disparate treatment and disparate impact, are also extremely important to HR managers.

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EXPORT DEPARTMENT

Last phase of our orientation program constitued of visit to the export documentation department at Head office.Prior to the visit we had no clue how complicated can it get for people sitting there to get the dispatched items shipped due to any negligance taken place at merchandizer’s end.Hence for future working it seems to be quite fruitful .Following is the detail of our visit. ➢ Functions & Procedures This department is responsible for the documentation of export items such as yarn,grey cloth, garments and made-ups. Export department has to fulfill all the legal requirements and prepare important documents involved in the export of items listed above. They start working right after export items are ready to be dispatched to the customer. Their functions can be further divided as follows. When the container is ready to be dispatched, simultaneously documents are prepared by the export department. As soon as the dispatch note is sent to them by the marketing department, sales contract number is traced. Commercial invoice is generated using the information extracted sfrom the sales contract which is then sent to customs for the clearance of shipment. Other documents prepared to ensure timely shipment are as follows. 1. Letter of credit (L\C) 2. Bill of exchange 3. Commercial invoice 4. Export declaration form. 5. Certificate of origin 6. Packing list 7. Customs invoice 8. Textile declaration form

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9. Inspection certificate 10. Shipping bill/bill of lodging/air way bill 11. Manufacture’s certificate 12. Form “E” Letter Of Credit The import and export of goods throughout the world is now usually arranged by documentary letter of credit. The importer requests his bank to open LC in the favor of exporter. The bank in pursuance of that request issues LC is favor of exporter. The LC is a promise or guarantee by the bank to honor bill of exchange drawn by exporter, provided the conditions of letter of credit are fulfilled. Definition “Letter of credit is an undertaking by a bank to meet the drafts drawn by exporter” “Letter of credit is the conditional undertaking on the request of the importer/buyer” “A written undertaking by the bank of importer” i.e. issuing bank at the request of buyer or importer to make payments at sight or at Parties Involved : Four parties are involved in the payment of the goods I. Buyer bank II. Beneficiary (Which is NML in this case)

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How L/C is opened The import department receives the Performa invoice from purchasing department, after getting the approval from the authorized person (Mian Umer Mansha in Nishat Mills Limited) the concerned person write an Application in the name of his authorized bank requesting him to open a Letter of Credit in the favor of a particular party in a foreign country. Insurance Certificate is obtained from the Insurance Company for the protection of damages. H.S Codes are also required for the confirmation of duty charged by the Government on different item of goods. (Harmonized System Codes) The department according to the requirement makes sometimes amendments. Import documents are retired by paying the all dues to bank. L / C and Bill of Lading are given to the clearing agent for clearing the consignment. Finally bill of entry is received which has three copies in which every concerned party give its remarks with stamp. One copy is sent to the SBP for maintaining records of Imports.2nd copy is sent to the custom department and 3rd is retained by department for record. After clearance of the export documents, export department negotiate the paper with bank and receive payment from the bank. Then our local bank sends documents to the buyer bank and foreign bank release payment to our bank with the permission of the buyer. In foreign trade, letter of credit has gained tremendously importance. It has facilitated the trade, two unknown parties come together and both are benefited. Points To Remember In Letter Of Credit What I did at Nishat mills limited? I came to know lot of things about letter of credit. Contents of letter of credit are summarized as under, I. Shipper’s name 96 | P a g e

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ii. Consignee name According to State Bank regulations, consignee of goods can never be importer unless mode of payment is advance. State Bank of Pakistan point of view in this regard is to secure the payment of letter of credit. Goods are received in foreign country either by bank or someone other. The purpose is that foreign remittance should come inside PAKISTAN. iii. Mode of payment Iv. Kind of letter of credit V. Port of shipment Vi. Port of delivery Vii. Special instruction, if any viii. Customs Invoice After opening letter of credit, invoice is prepared. One of for customs authorities, so proper shipment takes place. It is sent along with goods shipped to foreign country. ix. Form E E stands for export. When Nishat mills limited exports yarn or processed fiber, form E is taken from the bank. In which bank describes quantity and price of goods exported. Nishat mills limited obtain FORM E from Credit Agricol Indosuez, Citi Bank etc. I want to mention a very interesting point there. Normally in case of small exporter, bank inspects goods and issues FORM E. but in case of Nishat mills limited, blank FORM E are issued by the bank, they are filled by the export documentation department. Since Nishat is a large group and enjoys a favorable repute in the eyes of banks so they do not care much in issuing blank FORM E. Nishat mills limited have given written undertaking to bank that in case of unfavorable events. Nishat mills limited will settle the matter with SBP.

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x. Packing list It describes goods, their quantities which are packaged. This packing list is sent to the shipping company. XI. Shipping bill/ bill of lading/ airway bill/ railway receipt. When goods are sent by sea, five copies of bill of lading are prepared. If the goods are sent by air, air way bill is prepared. When the goods are sent through railway, railway receipt is prepared. Company carrying goods issues bill of lading. It describes nature of goods exported their value. · Date of shipment · Date at which ship will reach the destination · Shipping bill no · M.R nos It is mate receipt number. When captain of ship receives goods and places it in ship he issues a mate receipts numbers. xii. Commercial invoice Invoice can be of following types; 1. Cost and freight 2. FOB (freight on board)

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If we deduct freight from cost and freight, we get FOB value. Cost and freight means this cost also covers the freight charges from port to importers godown. FOB value includes charges only up to port. xiii.Certificate of origin Some importers requires certificate of origin from NML. It is a declaration by NML that goods are of Pakistani origin. Importers import fabrics because of finest cotton. It is an assurance that goods are of Pakistani origin. Export Promotion Bureau normally issues this certificate. xiv. Beneficiary certificate Terms of delivery : Following are the terms of delivery decided by the buyer and manufacturers. 1. Free On Board Shipment (FOB) Supplier is not responsible for shipping nor there do any freight charges. It is the simplest term and supplier responsibility is till the port of origin. It is a full package that includes cost of every thing i.e. profit, actual cost, overhead cost. 2. Cost And Freight (CNF) Here factory’s rate will include freight charges as well. 3. Cost Insurance Freight (CIF) Here supplier does insurance because it’s his responsibility to put the goods to the buyer’s port. 4. Landed Duty Paid (LDP) Here the risk is taken by the supplier. The supplier takes the responsibility of

making

the garments, clearing all the customs and gets the garments to the buyer’s warehouse. Payment Terms :

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Following are the payment terms decided between the customer and NAL. 1. Cash Against Documents (CAD) NAL ship the goods before payment but don’t release the documents to transfer ownership and possession of them (‘shipping documents’) until your overseas buyer has made an irrevocable payment for the goods. Your bank and your buyer’s bank facilitate the transfer of the payment and shipping documents. Alternatively, you can use your agent in your buyer’s country. The main steps in a cash against documents transaction are: ✓ Goods are shipped to the buyer in accordance with the export contract. ✓ Either: o you present the relevant shipping documents, including the document of title (usually the bill of lading) and invoice, to your bank, which sends the documents to the buyer’s bank or o you send the shipping documents to your agent in the buyer’s country. ✓ Your buyer provides payment for the goods to their bank or your agent, who in turn transfers the payment to your bank. ✓ In return for the payment your buyer’s bank or your agent hands over the shipping documents to the buyer, who then takes control of the goods. 2. Documents Against Acceptence (DA) As a procedure to collect payment on an exported shipment. instructions are given that documents necessary to obtain the merchandise from customs and the carrier are to be released to a buyer only against the buyer's acceptance of a time draft drawn upon him.

3. Letter of Credit (L/C)

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