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Evaluation of Chenille Yarn Abrasion Behavior with Abrasion Tests and Image Analysis Abstract Chenille yarns are vulnerable to abrasion because of easy pile loss. In this study different chenille yarns were produced from sirospun and two-folded ring, 100% wool and 50% wool–50% polyester blend yarns of different fiber fineness. A yarn abrasion device was designed in order to measure the abrasion resistance of chenille yarns and the abrasion resistance of knitted fabrics made from these yarns was measured with a Martindale Abrasion tester. In addition, chenille yarns abraded for different numbers of abrasion cycles were analyzed using a computerized image analysis method to evaluate the abrasion behavior. The results were analyzed statistically. According to the results, the use of wool blends and sirospun yarns as pile materials led to an improvement in abrasion resistance. Correlation analyses confirmed strong linear relationships with high values of correlation coefficients (above 0.9) between the mass loss values obtained from abrasion tests and the abrasion coefficients of the chenille yarns obtained from image analysis.

Erhan Kenan Çeven and Özcan Özdemir1 Department of Textile Engineering, Faculty of Engineering and Architecture Uludag University Görükle, 16059 Bursa, Turkey

Key words chenille yarn, abrasion resistance, image analysis, wool, fiber fineness, sirospun

Fancy yarns are those produced with some deliberate discontinuity introduced either into the color or form of the article with the intention of producing an enhanced aesthetic impression [1].They determine the ornamentation in the fabric [2]. Chenille yarn is a kind of fancy yarn which is fascinating because of its gleam and softness. It has a pile protruding all around at right angles and finds a wide range of applications including outerwear fabrics, home furnishing fabrics and knitwear. Chenille yarns are constructed by twisting core yarns together in chenille yarn machines where pile yarns are inserted at right angles and cut to within 1 or 2 mm of the core yarn surface to create a surface in which the fibers contained in the pile yarns burst and form a soft pile surface to the yarn [3]. The size and number of the pile yarns and how many of them are fed onto the core determines the count of the yarn [3–5].

Textile Research Journal Vol 76(4): 315–321 DOI: 10.1177/0040517506061961

Chenille is a difficult yarn to manufacture, requiring great care in production. Due to the nature of its pile loss; great care must be taken in converting chenille into final articles. When the yarns are in use, clearly the abrasion resistance of the chenille yarn is crucially important, in particular because the effect sought is always that of the velvety feel of the pile, and the bald look of worn velvet or chenille is not appealing. Any removal of the effect yarn forming the beard, either during further processing or during the eventual end-use, will expose the ground yarns, which in turn will result in a bare appearance [6].1

1 Corresponding author: (current address) Department of Textile Engineering, Faculty of Engineering and Architecture Uludag University, Görükle, 16059 Bursa, Turkey. Tel: +90 224 442 8174; fax: +90 224 442 8021; e-mail: [email protected]

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Despite the fact that chenille yarns are used to produce special fabrics with high added value, the literature survey shows that there is limited research on the abrasion behavior of such yarns and fabrics. Recently several researchers have attempted to determine the effect of yarn structure (pile length, twist level, pile material type) on abrasion characteristics [3–5, 7]. They used conventional abrasion test methods for their assessments and predictions. In the present study, the abrasion behavior of chenille yarns was analyzed with a computerized image analysis method. In addition to image analysis, yarn and fabric abrasion tests were also carried out to assess abrasion resistance and to evaluate the relationship between the mass loss values and values obtained from image analysis. The study involved research of both wool and wool-blended chenille yarns to investigate the influence of some chenille yarn parameters on yarn abrasion, fabric abrasion and abrasion coefficient values obtained from image analysis. In doing so, the wool chenille yarn parameters that affect yarn and fabric abrasion have been defined and an experimental study program was designed.

Experimental The experiments involved chenille yarn samples manufactured from wool and wool-blend pile yarns of different yarn types (two-folded ring, sirospun) and different fiber fineness. The properties of wool and wool-blend pile yarns are shown in Table 1. As the wool chenille yarns are highly vulnerable to abrasive forces, we preferred to use wool chenille yarns rather than those with other fiber materials, with the expectation that the assessments of the results would be more explicit. During the production of chenille yarns, the lock and pile yarns have to pass many gauges and pulleys therefore yarn strength must be high enough for the machine to run smoothly. For this reason, two-ply and sirospun (two strand) wool yarns were used in the production of chenille yarns. The two-ply wool yarns were obtained by the conventional method and sirospun yarns

were produced directly by feeding, drafting and controlling two rovings in parallel via a single spindle. The 2.8 Nm count wool chenille yarns were produced using pile yarns mentioned above and 34/1 Nm count cotton lock yarns on a Hwa Ching HC-607 type chenille yarn machine in pile length of 1.2 mm and yarn twist of 790 turns/ m- in the Z direction. Thereafter fabrics from these yarns were knitted at the same cam setting on an E7 gauge flat knitting machine. The fabric construction was single jersey. A testing device was designed by making some modifications to the Crockmeter (James H. Heal & Co. Ltd) to measure the abrasion resistance of the yarn samples. The test method involved the abrasion of chenille yarns by a Supraflex Paper 167-type silicon carbide with dimensions of 5 cm × 5 cm. The chenille yarn was wound (five turns) on a rectangular cardboard with dimensions of 17 cm × 30 cm. The silicon carbide paper was moved straight onto the wound chenille yarn [5, 8]. Before starting the abrasion tests, primary trials were made in order to determine the abrasion cycle that would be suitable for the chenille yarn samples. According to the results of these trials, mass losses in milligrams were determined for five abrasion levels from 50 to 150 cycles at 50, 75, 100 and 150 cycles. Average values of mass loss ratio (%) were obtained by the proportion of the mass loss of samples after the test levels divided by the initial mass of the samples. A computerized image analysis method was used to evaluate the abraded structures of the yarn samples visually since the abrasion resistance is determined with high reliability by this method. Photographs of samples were taken with a camera (Olympus Sc-35 Type 12 camera) mounted on a tripod integrated with an optical light microscope (Olympus Sz-Pt 4045 Trinoculer Stereo Zoom microscope). The pixel resolution of the camera was 640 × 480 (color 24 bit) and the photo was magnified 24×. Yarn samples were photographed in the initial state and after 50, 75, 100 and 150 abrasion cycles and in the same conditions. The region of each image was set at 1544 × 1024 pixels for computer image analysis. Images of samples were processed by image analysis software (Adobe Photoshop Elements 3.0) and converted from a RGB (red, green and blue) colored format to a gray-scale format. All images

Table 1 Properties of wool and wool blend pile yarns. Material wool wool wool wool 50/50 wool/pet 50/50 wool/pet 50/50 wool/pet 50/50 wool/pet

Fiber fineness

Yarn type

Yarn count (Nm)

Twist (T/m)

19.5 µm 19.5 µm 20.5 µm 20.5 µm 20 µm – 1.5 denier pet 20 µm – 1.5 denier pet 21 µm – 1.5 denier pet 21 µm – 1.5 denier pet

R S R S R S R S

76/2 76/2 56/2 56/2 70/2 70/2 60/2 60/2

781 779 675 680 774 774 706 706

R, two-fold conventional ring; S, sirospun. All the yarns are have the same twist multiplier.

Evaluation of Chenille Yarn Abrasion Behavior with Abrasion Tests E. K. Çeven and Ö. Özdemir were filtered with median filtering to remove noise, and then converted to binary images of black and white by threshold values. Using the software program, the number of white pixels on the images was counted and then the abrasion coefficients were calculated. An abrasion coefficient value (AC %) is the ratio of the difference of initial and abraded sample area to the initial sample area AC (%) = [(AC2 – AC1)/AC2] × 100 where AC1 is the abraded sample area and AC2 is the initial sample area. Abrasion tests of the knitted chenille fabric samples were conducted on a Martindale Wear and Abrasion Tester, Model 103 (James Heal & Co. Ltd., Halifax, England) in accordance with BS 5690 [9]. Abrasion cycles were limited to 5000 rubs and the cut samples were weighed at the beginning and at the end of 5000 cycles. Mass loss ratios were obtained by dividing mass loss after 5000 cycles to initial mass of the samples. We examined the results in terms of yarn mass loss ratio, fabric mass loss ratio and abrasion coefficient for each sample type. Measurements were repeated three times for each

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yarn and fabric type. The Costat statistical package was used for all statistical procedures. The statistical analyses were carried out using completely randomized two-factor analysis of variance (RM ANOVA) as a fixed model for wool and woolpolyester chenille yarns in order to determine the significance of the factors on mass losses and AC values. The means were compared by Student–Newman–Keuls (SNK) tests. Correlation analyses were conducted in order to observe the relationships between fabric and yarn mass loss values, between AC and yarn mass loss values and between AC and fabric mass loss values. All test results were assessed at a confidence level of at least 95% (at most 5% significance level) [10].

Results and Discussion Figure 1 illustrates average mass loss values of wool and wool-polyester blended chenille yarns versus four abrasion levels, (50, 75,100 and 150 cycles) for two different fiber fineness types and two different pile yarn types, respectively. SNK test results of wool and wool-polyester blended chenille yarns and fabrics are given in Table 2.

Figure 1 Mass loss values versus abrasion cycles: (a) for wool chenille yarns, (b) for wool- polyester chenille yarns. Table 2 Effects of pile yarn types, and pile yarn fiber finenesses on abrasion resistance, Student–Newman–Keuls Test: (a) for wool chenille yarns and fabrics, (b) for wool-polyester chenille yarns and fabrics. Average yarn mass loss (%) (a)-Parameter Yarn type Fiber fineness (µ)

Average fabric

50 cycles

75 cycles

100 cycles

150 cycles

mass loss (%)

Ring Siro 19.5 20.5

3.00 a 2.65 a 3.15 a 2.50 b

6.30 a 6.20 a 6.85 a 5.65 b

8.80 a 8.35 b 9.30 a 7.85 b

15.55 a 14.65 b 16.90 a 13.30 b

48.0 a 45.5 b 51.0 a 42.5 b

Ring Siro 20 – 1.5 21 – 1.5

1.85 a 2.10 a 2.40 a 1.55 b

3.70 a 3.85 a 4.50 a 3.05 b

6.65 a 6.55 a 6.90 a 6.30 b

9.90 a 9.50 b 11.35 a 8.05 b

29.0 a 25.0 b 34.50 a 19.50 b

(b)-Parameter Yarn type Fiber fineness (µ – denier)

Different letters next to the counts indicate that they are significantly different from each other at 5% significance level.

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According to the variance analysis results for wool and wool-polyester blended chenille yarns, fiber fineness was a significant factor affecting yarn abrasion resistance at all numbers of abrasion cycles (50, 75, 100, 150 cycles). However, the effect of yarn type on the abrasion tended to become significant as the number of abrasion cycles increased. Yarn type was a significant factor on abrasion resistance of wool chenille yarns at 100 and 150 abrasion cycles whereas it was only significant at 150 abrasion cycles for wool-polyester blended chenille yarns. The differences in the mass loss of different yarn types were statistically significant at high abrasion levels for wool-polyester blended chenille yarns. This finding indicates that the inclusion of polyester in the blend enhances the resistance to abrasive forces. The results of variance analysis of wool and wool-polyester blended chenille fabrics revealed statistically significant differences between mass loss values for different yarn types and fiber fineness. In terms of the fiber fineness, for wool chenille yarns and fabrics, there is a tendency toward decreased mass loss with the use of coarser fibers. The mass loss of chenille yarns with 19.5 µm wool pile material was greater than that with 20.5 µm wool pile material at all levels of abrasion cycles. Similarly, fabrics knitted with these yarns showed the same abrasion behavior. These results can be interpreted as demonstrating that differences in fiber fineness will affect the pile density on the surface of the chenille yarn. As the 76/2 Nm count pile yarns have a fiber fineness of 19.5 µm and the 56/2 Nm count pile yarns have a fiber fineness of 20.5 µm, the number of the fibers in the yarns’ cross section will differ from each other. The number of the fibers in the cross section for 19.5 µm fibers is lower than that of 20.5 µm fibers. As the pile density of wool chenille yarn increases, the yarn structure will be tighter, resulting in a more compact surface and increased degree of pile packing [5, 8, 11]. The piles will be held more tightly, which will raise the fiber cohesion. Thus pile density affects the abrasion behavior of chenille yarns. Furthermore, it is stated in literature that increasing fiber diameter up to a limit improves abrasion resistance [12, 13]. When the mass loss results of wool chenille yarns and fabrics were compared with regard to yarn type, it can be seen that chenille yarns with conventional ring pile yarn component experience greater abrasion than those with a sirospun pile yarn component. The knitted fabrics produced from those yarns also showed the same characteristic. This may be due to the fact that the resistance of chenille yarns and knitted fabrics to abrasive forces depend not only on the pile yarn fiber properties, but also on the pile yarn types and their positioning around the two core (axial) yarn components in the chenille yarn structure. Sirospun yarn will more closely resemble a single yarn in structure but because of the low level of strand twist it has

two important properties which improve its character to some extent: it is more abrasion resistant and less hairy [3]. Because of the twist liveliness of these yarns and the tighter structure than the normal two-fold yarn, they are more abrasion resistant. According to the test results for wool-polyester chenille yarns and fabrics, mass loss decreased as fiber fineness increased. Chenille yarns of 20 µm wool and 1.5 denier polyester pile material were abraded more than those of 21 µm wool and 1.5 denier polyester pile material at all levels of abrasion cycles. A similar differentiation resulted in the mass losses of knitted fabrics from chenille yarns. Accordingly, we can postulate that when polyester fiber material exists in the pile yarn the abrasion characteristics of woolpolyester chenille yarns and fabrics do not show a different tendency from those of wool-type yarns and fabrics. The comparison of the results of wool-polyester chenille yarns with increasing abrasion cycles shows an interesting situation. Chenille yarns with sirospun pile yarn component are abraded more than ther ring couple at the beginning of the abrasion test at 50 and 75 abrasion cycles. At 100 abrasion cycles, chenille yarns with a conventional ring pile yarn component show a worse resistance to abrasive forces. Despite the values obtained from the starting level to this abrasion level, the results are of no importance at 5% significance level. At 150 abrasion cycles, a significant difference was observed between the mass loss values. Chenille yarns with a conventional ring pile yarn component are abraded more than the yarns with a sirospun pile yarn component. The effect of yarn type on the abrasion behavior was similar for the fabrics knitted with wool-polyester chenille yarns. There is a decrease in the mass loss ratios by 5.20 and 13.79% when the fabrics are knitted with sirospun chenille yarns of wool and wool-polyester, respectively.

Evaluation of AC Values In this study, we used a software program to compare the surface changes in abraded yarns after a certain number of cycles with their initial states. The AC values were calculated in order to evaluate the abraded structures of the yarn samples visually. Figure 2 shows the selected images of chenille yarn samples processed by image analysis software. From the analysis of variance results for wool chenille yarns we observed that, the abrasion coefficient (AC) values for yarns of different fiber fineness differ from each other significantly after all abrasion cycles. However, yarn type only had a significant effect on AC values at 100 and 150 cycles. According to the variance analysis results for wool-polyester chenille yarns, there was no significant difference

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Figure 2 Initial and abraded appearances of chenille yarns versus abrasion cycles: (a) for chenille yarns of ring and 19.5 µm wool; (b) for chenille yarns of sirospun and 19.5 µm wool; (c) for chenille yarns of ring and 20 µm wool and 1.5 denier polyester blend; (d) for chenille yarns of Sirospun and 20 µm wool and 1.5 denier polyester blend.

Table 3 Effects of pile yarn types, and pile yarn fiber finenesses on AC value, Student–Newman–Keuls test: (a) for wool chenille yarns, (b) for wool-polyester chenille yarns. AC (%) (a)-Parameter Yarn type Fiber fineness (µ)

50 cycles

75 cycles

100 cycles

150 cycles

Conv. rRing Siro 19.5 20.5

3.19 a 2.81 a 3.53 a 2.47 b

6.27 a 5.70 a 7.16 a 4.80 b

8.86 a 7.82 b 9.11 a 7.56 b

13.99 a 12.93 b 14.77 a 12.15 b

Conv. ring Siro 20 – 1.5 21 – 1.5

1.62 a 1.26 a 1.67 a 1.21 a

3.45 a 3.02 a 3.76 a 2.71 b

5.77 a 4.15 a 6.18 a 3.74 b

8.73 a 7.27 b 10.05 a 5.95 b

(b)-Parameter Yarn type Fiber fineness (µ – denier)

Different letters next to the counts indicate that they are significantly different from each other at 5% significance level.

between AC values for different yarn types at 50, 75 and 100 cycles. With the increment of abrasion cycles set to 150, the difference becomes significant. Fiber fineness is a significant factor affecting AC values at 75, 100 and 150 cycles.

Test results for both wool and wool-polyester chenille yarns are presented in Table 3 and show that the average AC values have a tendency to decrease when coarser fibers are used in the pile yarns. These results are in accord with the mass loss results of chenille yarns and fabrics.

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Figure 3 AC values versus abrasion cycles: (a) for wool chenille yarns, (b) for wool-polyester chenille yarns.

When we look at the results for yarn type, the AC values for sirospun yarns were lower than conventional ringspun yarns at all levels of abrasion cycles but this behavior was only significant at 100 and 150 cycles for wool and at 150 cycles for wool-polyester type chenille yarns. The AC values of wool and wool-polyester blended chenille yarns are presented in Figure 3. There is a decrease in the AC values with the use of polyester in chenille yarns which is similar to the mass loss results when the effects of varying structural parameters are not taken into consideration. Structural parameters such as twist also have an effect on abrasion but it was constant in this study. It is generally stated that the ability of a fiber to withstand repeated distortion is the key to its abrasion resistance. In a general assessment of fiber abrasion resistance, polyamide is the most outstanding in terms of abrasion resistance followed by polyester, and wool and cotton have a moderate abrasion resistance. Blending either nylon or polyester with wool and cotton has been found to increase their abrasion resistance [13]. In addition to variance analyses, the linear correlation coefficients were calculated in order to confirm the relationships between the methods of abrasion evaluation. All the correlation coefficients are listed in Table 4, to check

whether the abrasion results obtained by different methods were coherent. The border value of the correlation coefficient at a random degree n–2 = 6, and the significance level α = 0.05, above which the correlation exists, was 0.707. According to this, there is linear correlation between all methods. The high values that were obtained (above 0.9, except for one case) for the correlation coefficients confirmed a strong linear correlation between the abrasion evaluation methods. It is worth noting some rules. The strongest linear correlation coefficients (above 0.98) obtained were between the methods: yarn mass loss at 150 abrasion cycles and fabric mass loss; AC at 150 abrasion cycles and fabric mass loss; and yarn mass loss at 150 and AC at 150 abrasion cycles. Depending on the above-given findings, it can be assumed that at least one method in all these correlations has the same number of cycles of abrasion concerning the abrasion period. It was observed that the correlation relationships between the methods increase as the number of abrasion cycles is increased. This is confirmed by the high values of the correlation coefficients: 0.983, 0,997 and 0.983. The simple correlation coefficients were computed, indicating that the weakest linear correlation was between

Table 4 Simple correlation coefficients between results of yarn mass loss, fabric mass loss and AC at different abrasion cycles. Correlation

Correlation coefficient, r

Yml 50 –Fml Yml 75 –Fml

Correlation

Correlation coefficient, r

Correlation

Correlation coefficient, r

0.929

AC 50 – Fml

0.946

Yml 50 – AC 50

0.887

0.979

AC 75 – Fml

0.939

Yml 75 – AC 75

0.947

Yml 100 –Fml

0.933

AC 100 – Fml

0.968

Yml 100 – AC 100

0.926

Yml 150 –Fml

0.983

AC 150 – Fml

0.997

Yml 150 – AC 150

0.983

Yml is yarn mass loss; Fml is fabric mass loss and AC is abrasion coefficient obtained from image analysis. Numbers next to the letters indicate abrasion cycles.

Evaluation of Chenille Yarn Abrasion Behavior with Abrasion Tests E. K. Çeven and Ö. Özdemir yarn mass loss at 50 abrasion cycles and AC values at 50 abrasion cycles (coefficient r = 0.887). This is caused by one factor: the cycle of abrasion is lower than that of the others using these methods. If a comparison is made between the evaluation methods according to the twelve correlation coefficients: it can be seen that as the abrasion performances of chenille yarns can be measured in yarn form either with the abrasion test or with image analysis, measuring the abrasion in yarn form will enable predictions to be made about fabric abrasion performance. It will be a practical method and enable a rapid laboratory interpretation.

Conclusion In this study, the abrasion behavior of wool and woolblended chenille yarns was analyzed with a computerized image analysis method. In addition to image analysis, yarn and fabric abrasion tests were also carried out to assess abrasion resistance and to determine the relationship between the mass loss values and values obtained from image analysis. The influence of some parameters of chenille yarns on yarn abrasion, fabric abrasion and abrasion coefficient values obtained from image analysis was investigated. We have shown that pile yarn material and pile yarn fiber fineness, as well as pile yarn type have significant influences on the abrasion resistance and the serviceability of wool and wool-blend chenille yarns and fabrics in accordance with past findings. Pile loss is encouraged by inadequate fiber adherence. Careful choice of the pile and core yarns to increase the inter-fiber friction may assist in reducing the rate of pile loss. Our results imply that using polyester fiber in the blends, wool fibers with appropriate fineness and sirospun pile yarn type in the production will help to produce chenille yarns with high abrasion resistance. Chenille yarns with high pile density are abraded less than those with low pile density. Using wool fibers with appropriate fineness is intended mainly to assist in avoiding the slippage of the piles from the lock yarns. In order to find the practical plane of comparison for values obtained by the three kinds of abrasion measurements, linear correlation coefficients were calculated. An assessment of the abrasive behavior of chenille yarns and fabrics in terms of AC values, mass loss in yarn and fabric form reveals that there are strong linear correlation relationships between the abrasion evaluation methods. This is confirmed by the high values of correlation coefficients (above 0.9). Based on the results we conclude that abrasion measurements of chenille yarns in yarn form (mass loss and image analysis) will make it possible to predict the fabric abrasion performance. So it will be a practical method and enable a rapid laboratory interpretation. Furthermore, it

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will be useful to carry out studies about the effect of pile yarn fiber fineness, pile yarn type and fiber material on the dimensional and physical properties of chenille yarns (yarn shrinkage, dye absorption etc.), which is beyond the scope of this study and should be the subject matter of future studies.

Acknowledgement We are grateful to the Baron Kala Industry and Trade Co. for providing the chenille yarns. Ö. Özdemir and E: K. Ceven wish to thank F. Kalaog˘lu and Y. Ulcay, for very useful discussions.

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