Yale University Press, London - Fashion Catalogue 09/10

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Fashion Brochure 2008:Fashion 2008

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fashionnow Gothic Dark Glamour Valerie Steele and Jennifer Park

2008 192pp. 100 colour illus. Hb ISBN 978-0-300-13694-4 £19.99*

From its origins in the eighteenth-century literature of terror to its contemporary manifestations in vampire fiction, cinema and art, the gothic has embraced the powers of horror and the erotic macabre. ‘Gothic’ is an epithet with a strange history—evoking images of death, destruction and decay. Ironically, its negative connotations have made the gothic an ideal symbol of rebellion for a wide range of cultural outsiders. Popularly associated with black-clad teenagers and rock musicians, gothic fashion encompasses not only subcultural styles (from oldschool goth to cyber-goth and beyond) but also high fashion by such designers as Alexander McQueen, John Galliano of Christian Dior, Rick Owens, Olivier Theyskens and Yohji Yamamoto. As the text and lavish illustrations in this book suggest, gothic fashion has deep cultural roots that give it an enduring potency. Published in association with The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology

Superheroes Fashion and Fantasy Andrew Bolton With an essay by Michael Chabon

2008 160pp. 300 colour illus. Hb ISBN 978-0-300-13670-8 £30.00*

From Wonder Woman’s satin stars and golden bracelets to Batman’s brooding cape and mask, the style of superheroes’ dress has influenced both street wear and high fashion. This richly illustrated book explores how radical couture, avant-garde sportswear and state-of-the-art military garments—as seen through the lens of the superhero—can be metaphors for sex, power and politics. Beginning with the origins of the superhero costume, this volume looks at how designers have been influenced by iconographic components such as the cape, mask, boots and unitard. Costumes, such as those worn by Batman and Catwoman, are examined as reflections of sexual and physical prowess, while others, most notably those of Superman and Captain America, are analysed as political propaganda. Published in association with The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

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fashionnow

Extreme Beauty

Wild

The Body Transformed

Fashion Untamed

Harold Koda

Andrew Bolton

Published in association with The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

Published in association with The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

2004 192pp. 228 colour illus. Pb ISBN 978-0-300-10312-0 £19.95*

2004 180pp. 32 b/w + 65 colour illus. Pb ISBN 978-0-300-10638-1 £14.99*

AngloMania

Fashion at the Edge

Tradition and Transgression in British Fashion

Spectacle, Modernity and Deathliness

Andrew Bolton

Caroline Evans

With an essay by Ian Buruma

2007 334pp. 100 b/w + 100 colour illus. Pb ISBN 978-0-300-12467-5 £19.99*

Published in association with The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

2007 150pp. 81 colour illus. Hb ISBN 978-0-300-11785-1 £18.50*

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fashiondesigners Madame Grès Sphinx of Fashion Patricia Mears

2008 184pp. 90 colour illus. Hb ISBN 978-0-300-13692-0 £35.00*

While the classically inspired ‘Grecian’ gown designed by Madame Alix Grès is widely recognised and admired, little else of the brilliant couturier’s life or work has received close attention. This book, by far the most detailed study yet published on this influential fashion designer, carefully analyses Madame Grès’ innovative construction techniques and connects her designs to the art styles and movements that inspired and informed her aesthetic. “Mears brings to her subject a genuine appreciation for the engineering that formed the basis of Grès’s innovation and for her tenacious, obsessive pursuit of custom techniques that were inherently uncommercial, severely curtailing the expansion of her business empire.” —Holly Brubach, New York Times, Style Magazine

Poiret Harold Koda and Andrew Bolton With an introduction by Nancy J. Troy Contributions by Caroline Evans, Heather Hess, Jared Goss and Caroline Milbank

2007 224pp. 195 colour illus. Hb ISBN 978-0-300-12029-5 £29.99*

In the annals of fashion history, French couturier Paul Poiret is known for liberating women from corsets and introducing pantaloons for women. However, it is Poiret’s innovations in the cut and construction of clothing, made all the more remarkable by the fact that he could not sew, that secures his legacy. This essential book is the first to explore Poiret’s radical modernity from a number of perspectives. Essays by renowned scholars describe the historical context of his work; its relation to the dominant artistic discourses of the early twentieth century; his muse, Denise Poiret, and her influence on his work; and his role in the paradigmatic shift to a new ideal of feminine beauty. “destined to become a collectors item”—Richard Edmonds, Birmingham Post Published in association with The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

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fashiondesigners

Chanel Harold Koda and Andrew Bolton With contributions from Karl Lagerfeld Published in association with The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

2005 216pp. 166 colour illus. Hb ISBN 978-0-300-10713-5 £25.00*

Fashion, Italian Style Valerie Steele Published in association with The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology

2003 144pp. 5 b/w +132 colour illus. Hb ISBN 978-0-300-10014-3 £20.00*

Balenciaga and His Legacy Haute Couture from the Texas Fashion Collection Myra Walker Published in association with The Meadows Museum, Dallas

2006 225pp. 40 b/w + 112 colour illus. Hb ISBN 978-0-300-12153-7 £30.00*

Ralph Rucci The Art of Weightlessness Valerie Steele, Patricia Mears and Clare Sauro Published in association with The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology

2007 224pp. 150 colour illus. Hb ISBN 978-0-300-12278-7 £29.99*

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fashionaccessories Artistic Luxury Fabergé, Tiffany, Lalique Edited by Stephen Harrison Essays by Emmanuel Ducamp and Jeannine Falino

January 2009 288pp. approx. 300 colour illus. Hb ISBN 978-0-300-14224-2 £40.00*

Fabergé, Tiffany, Lalique—these great designers came together only once to display their goods in what was probably the most opulent exhibition ever mounted. At the 1900 Exposition Universelle in Paris, the three strove to position themselves ahead of their many competitors in the luxury market, each presenting his jewellery and home adornments as high art. Their success is explored in this splendidly illustrated catalogue, which elucidates the prewar pinnacle of European culture. The array of displayed objects was mesmerising: Tiffany glass, Easter eggs to dazzle the Czars, realistic insects created in precious materials as sinister decorations. Many of these bore influences of the advanced art of the time, such as Art Nouveau, Viennese modernism and symbolism and of styles from around the world. Published in association with the Cleveland Museum of Art

Bejewelled by Tiffany Georg Jensen 1837–1987 Jewelry

Clare Phillips • With contributions by Vivienne Becker, Ulysses Grant Dietz, Alice Cooney Frelinghuysen, John Loring and Katherine Purcell The Gilbert Collection Trust/Tiffany & Co.

2006 320pp. 170 b/w + 300 colour illus. Hb ISBN 978-0-300-11651-9 £45.00*

Edited by David A. Taylor Published in association with the Bard Graduate Center for Studies in the Decorative Arts, Design and Culture

2005 400pp. 70 b/w + 330 colour illus. ISBN 978-0-300-10706-7 £35.00*

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fashion&design

Marimekko

Wearing Propaganda

Fabrics, Fashion, Architecture

Textiles on the Home Front in Japan, Britain, and the United States 1931–1945

Edited by Marianne Aav 2003 336pp. 85 b/w + 300 colour illus. Hb ISBN 978-0-300-10183-6 £35.00*

Jacqueline M. Atkins Published in association with the Bard Graduate Center for Studies in the Decorative Arts, Design and Culture

2005 400pp. 400 colour illus. Hb ISBN 978-0-300-10925-2 £35.00*

Glamour

Candace Wheeler

Fashion, Industrial Design, Architecture

Design, 1875–1900

Edited by Joseph Rosa

Amelia Peck and Carol Irish

Published with the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art

Published in association with The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

2004 192pp. 25 b/w + 290 colour illus. Hb ISBN 978-0-300-10640-4 £25.00*

2001 288pp. 102 b/w + 86 colour illus. Hb ISBN 978-0-300-09081-9 £17.95*

The Art and Enterprise of American

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fashionhistory

The Corset

Grace Kelly

A Cultural History

Icon of Style to Royal Bride

Valerie Steele

H. Kristina Haugland

2001 208pp. 110 b/w + 30 colour illus. Pb ISBN 978-0-300-09953-9 £15.00*

Published with the Philadelphia Museum of Art

2006 80pp. 40 b/w + 20 colour illus. Pb ISBN 978-0-300-11644-1 £12.99*

Fifty Years of Fashion

Goddess

New Look to Now

The Classical Mode

Valerie Steele

Harold Koda

2000 176pp. 50 b/w + 100 colour illus. Pb ISBN 978-0-300-08738-3 £14.00*

Published in association with The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

2003 224pp. 28 b/w + 85 colour illus. Hb ISBN 978-0-300-09882-2 £25.00*

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fashionhistory

Plumes

Dangerous Liaisons

Ostrich Feathers, Jews, and a Lost World of Global Commerce

Fashion and Furniture in the Eighteenth Century

Sarah Abrevaya Stein

Harold Koda, Andrew Bolton and Daniëlle Kisluk-Grosheide

January 2009 224pp. 17 b/w illus. + 1 map Hb ISBN 978-0-300-12736-2 £18.00*

Published in association with The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

2006 128pp. 68 colour illus. Hb ISBN 978-0-300-10714-2 £16.99*

Silk

The London Look

Mary Schoeser

Fashion from Street to Catwalk

With a foreword by Julien Macdonald 2007 256pp. 7 b/w + 258 colour illus. Hb ISBN 978-0-300-11741-7 £29.99*

Christopher Breward, Edwina Ehrman and Caroline Evans Published in association with the Museum of London

2004 180pp. 20 b/w + 120 colour illus. Hb ISBN 978-0-300-10399-1 £25.00*

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fashionhistory

The Dress of the People Everyday Fashion in Eighteenth-Century England John Styles 2008 288pp. 50 b/w + 50 colour illus. Hb ISBN 978-0-300-12119-3 £25.00*

Sarah Bernhardt The Art of High Drama Carol Ockman and Kenneth E. Silver

Fashion and Fiction Dress in Art and Literature in Stuart England Aileen Ribeiro Published for the Paul Mellon Centre for Studies in British Art

2006 352pp. 100 b/w + 80 colour illus. Hb ISBN 978-0-300-10999-3 £40.00*

Dress in the Middle Ages

Published in association with The Jewish Museum, NY

Françoise Piponnier and Perrine Mane

2005 232pp. 73 b/w + 122 colour illus. Hb ISBN 978-0-300-10919-1 £29.95*

1997 176pp. 60 illus. Pb ISBN 978-0-300-08691-1 £12.99*

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Dressed to Rule Royal and Court Costume From Louis XIV to Elizabeth II Philip Mansel 2005 256pp. 50 b/w + 15 colour illus. Hb ISBN 978-0-300-10697-8 £22.50*

Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000 Diversity and Difference Edited by Pat Kirkham Published in association with the Bard Graduate Center for Studies in the Decorative Arts, Design and Culture

2002 464pp. 50 b/w + 300 colour illus. Pb ISBN 978-0-300-09331-5 £25.00

fashionforthcoming Models & Muses Fashioning the Ideal Harold Koda and Kohle Yohannan

The Empire’s New Clothes A History of the Russian Fashion Industry, 1700–1917 Christine Ruane April 2009 256pp. 70 b/w + 50 colour illus. Hb ISBN 978-0-300-14155-9 £35.00*

Models & Muses explores fashion’s reciprocal relationship to iconic beauties that represent the evolution and changing face of the feminine ideal. Featuring a brief historical overview of the phenomenon of the supermodel, the book begins in the early twentieth century and continues to the present day. With an emphasis on styles from the 1950s onward, the book features designs from the great ready-to-wear and couture houses. Published in association with The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

May 2009 200pp. 175 colour illus. Hb ISBN 978-0-300-14893-0 £30.00*

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fashion ORDER FORM

Front cover: Olivier Theyskens, Gloomy Trips, 1997. Styling by Olivier Theyskens. Photograph courtesy Les Cyclopes. From: Gothic: Dark Glamour by Valerie Steele and Jennifer Park.

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