Powderlife Magazine Issue No.11

WINTER SPORTS ENTERTAINMENT REAL ESTATE

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issue 11 10 Dec 27 13 - Jan 26 2008 9 2009

i d skvs r a o B POWDER

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SHOWDOWN

CROSS COUNTRY japan’s year in review NISEKO SURVIVAL GUIDE earn your avalanche stripes KUTCHAN KARAOKE sing up a storm in k-town

Niseko’s powder lifestyle magazine fresh every two weeks

Sekka

Contents GROOMERS

NEWS PEOPLE PARTIES ETC 11 Page Seven // Village news and happenings 12 Cross Country // Offbeat news from across Japan 15 Niseko News // Be the first to know 16 News Feature // Darts tkes flight 18 Snap // Faces and fashion on the mountain 19 Flash // Niseko’s nightlife and party scene 20 Nightlife // The day really begins après 21 In the loop // What’s on in Niseko 22 Powder Tools // Essentials for Niseko powder 24 Meet the locals // Introducing Niseko locals 25 Irrashaimase // Great little local businesses

FEATURES

A WAIST-DEEP LOOK AT NISEKO

winter print run 50,000+ 出版者 publisher Bevan Colless ベバン・コレス 編集者 managing editor Kristian Lund クリスチャン・ランド デザイナ design Geoffrey McRoberts ジェフ・マックロバーツ 投稿者 contributors Katherine Bont, Lorne Calhoun, Stirling

Goldman, Nick Jackson, Sarah Lilburn, Greg Lund, Chika Matsuda Tess Stomski, Matthew Thomas, Saoka Wakasugi 写真撮影 photography Glen Claydon Photography, Niseko Photography, 広告掲載に関するお問い合わせ advertising inquiries

[email protected] 予約購読/既刊 subscriptions / past issues

[email protected] Powderlife Niseko Magazine is a Niseko Media Publication

26 32 36 44 49 51

SKIS VS BOARDS

The battle for pride place and powder. It’s the eternal battle. To ski or to board? That is the question.

A THOUSAND WORDS

Gallery of the latest action from the slopes. No need for words - just look

NISEKO SURVIVAL GUIDE

How to survive in Niseko’s vast, white and powdery backcountry

MEN WHO RIDE MOUNTAINS

You better believe it, Sterling Goldman’s back - and in even better form than ever

Q & A WITH EYAL AGMONI

Moria mountain holding GK purchased the Moiwa ski resort. Powderlife finds out a bit more about their plans

I STAND CORRECTED

By Graeme Glen, sales manager for West Canada Properties

BACKCOUNTRY

HIKE OUT THE BACK FOR THE REST

パウダーライフマガジンはニセコメディアが出版しています

170-5 Aza Yamada Kutchan-cho Abuta-gun, Hokkaido 044-0081 tel 0136 22 2000 fax 0136 22 2011 www.powderlife.com ©2008 Niseko Media KK Contents of Powderlife are subject to copyright. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission of the publisher is prohibited. The publication of editorial does not necessarily constitute an endorsement of views or opinions expressed. The publisher does not accept responsibility for statements made by advertisers. Niseko’s first English language periodical magazine – published every two weeks in Niseko between December and March and once outside winter as Summerlife ニセコ初の定期刊行雑誌。冬季期間（１２月～３月）は２週間に１回 発行、冬季期間外はサマーライフとして一回発行。

cover Adrian Camp photographer Glen Claydon

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powderlife ISSUE 11 december 26 - january 9 2009 www.powderlife.com

35 Music Reviews // Andy Gulverhouse 38 Restaurant Review // Okonomiyaki Jyuu 40 Japanese Cooking // Okonomiyaki - as you like it! 42 Learning Japanese // Japanese for powder people 46 Kutchan // Kutchan Karaoke? Okey Dokey! 48 Real Estate News // The latest on property 53 On The Market // North Field Lodge 54 On The Market // Listings 56 Course Map // Mountain info 58 Walking Map // Must have village directory 59 Phone Directory // Your town pages 61 Local Information // Essential tips and info on Niseko 62 The Last Word On Health // Over protection

editor’s note...

編集者注...

EVERY year, people across the world dream of a white Christmas. In Niseko that white Christmas is guaranteed in spades – usually spade-loads of powder snow you have to shovel off your front step on Christmas morning. This amazing snow that falls from the sky nearly every day in winter is just one thing that makes Niseko so great.

毎 年 、世 界 中 の 人 々 が ホ ワ イトクリス マ ス を 夢 見 ま す。二 セ コ で は そ れ が 間 違 い な く実 現 さ れ る の で す。　 間 違 い な くと い う の は 、クリス マ ス の 朝 は 家 の 前 の 大 量 の 雪 か き か ら 始 まる 、と い うぐ ら い 間 違 い な く雪 が 降 る の で す。 　 冬 の 間 、毎 日 天 空 か ら 降り続 け る 雪 が 、二 セ コと い う 所 を す ば らし い 場 所 にして い る 1 つ の 理 由 で あることは 間 違 い な い でしょう。

In this issue we take a fresh look at a debate that has been raging since rebellious snowboarders started sliding down mountains – which is better for powder… skiing or boarding?? This is sure to stir up some controversy and we’re looking forward to it. We also take you on an avalanche safety course and introduce you to one of Japan’s favourite foods – okonomiyaki. Plus all our regular columns, new and old.

この 号 で は 、反 逆 者 のスノー ボ ーダ ー が 山 に 出 現し始 め て から、長 い 間 討 論 さ れ てき た 　 ‘ パ ウダ ースノー は ス キ ーとスノー ボ ード のどちら が 向 い て い る の か？’ 　 に つ い ての 話 題 をとりあ げ ました 。　この 話 題 は 熱 い 討 論 に なること間 違 い な い でしょう。　 ま た 、雪 崩 れ セ ーフティーコ ース の 紹 介 、日 本 食 を 代 表 す る 大 人 気 の ‘ お 好 み 焼 き 　 ’ を 紹 介しま す。　 そ れ に 加 えて、い つ も の コラム も あります。

We would like to start publishing readers’ letters, so if you’ve got anything on your 今後は、読者の声も取り上げていきたいと思っています。　もし二セコについて言 mind, have any ideas for the magazine or website, or just want to tell us what a いたいこと（二セコのいい所、悪い所、なんでもＯＫ！）をパウダーライフの雑誌又 はウェブに投稿したい方は、[email protected]　までメールをください。 fabulous place you think Niseko is, put it in an email to [email protected]. We hope you had a great Christmas and have a fantastic New Year in Niseko. See 皆 様 が 、二 セコで 楽しいクリス マスとよい 新 年 を 迎えられ たことと思 います。　 皆 様とスロ ープ で お 会 いしましょう！ you on the slopes! Kristian Lund, Powderlife Managing Editor [email protected]

パウダーライフマガジン　編集長　クリスチャン　ランド [email protected]

Photo: Niseko Photography 8

powderlife ISSUE 11 december 26 - january 9 2009 www.powderlife.com

page seven By Kristian Lund and Matthew Thomas

Slow start but bring on New Year FOR once the weather forecasters were right. The early seasonal outlook for Hokkaido and most of Japan was low snowfall and above average temperatures. We at Powderlife, and we guess many others in Niseko, chose to ignore these unimaginable predictions as we’re so often let down by the meteorological soothsayers. Well, for once they were spot on. At the time of this magazine going to press, solid weekly dumps of snow were being followed up by warm temperatures, turning any precipitation into a day or two of rain and washing away any gains that had been made. But fortunately, the New Year is upon us, and there is no better time to turn one’s fortunes than now. The powder spells in between have been pretty amazing. And the rain will have aided in firming up the base for when the inevitable consistent snowfall arrives. Even in a bad season in Niseko we get up towards 10m of snowfall and there are always periods of weeks on end when it snows every day. A season can turn on its head within the period of a week, and there’s a good chance that week is not too far away.

Kentucky Fried Christmas IT seems in Japan the jolly old white-bearded man that everyone looks forward to seeing at Christmas in Japan isn’t Santa, it’s Colonel Sanders. Such is the rush for KFC at Christmas that Japanese book their fried Chrissie chook ahead of time.

New Year’s Niseko style THE Japanese love a good celebration, and because Christmas is not such a big deal here, New Year (shogatsu or oshogatsu) goes off with a bang. It’s perhaps the most important holiday in Japan and families typically get together to celebrate. In Niseko there’s no shortage of events, so check out our events calendar on p21 for a few ideas on how to welcome in the New Year. There are celebrations at every ski resort in Niseko, but the main event happens at the base of Hirafu, on the slopes above the Kogen Hotel. Along with fireworks, live music and taiko drum performances, the most spectacular part of the night will be when more than 100 skiers and snowboarders carrying flaming torches high on the mountainside form the numbers ‘09’, before skiing to the bottom. Not to be missed! January 1 is said to be a very auspicious day in Japan, best started by viewing the New Year’s first sunrise (hatsu-hinode)… so long as you didn’t drink too much of that free sake the night before!

Photos: Niseko Photography

Kamimura opens early YUICHI Kamimura – former five-year apprentice for Sydney’s famous celebrity chef, Tetsuya Wakuda – is renowned locally for delectable dinners at his restaurant and café, Kamimura. This season, Yuichi, who says he has almost spent his entire life in the kitchen, will be trying his deft hand at a gourmet breakfast menu, aimed at keeping at bay those hunger pains before a big day amongst the powder. The man who may just have ‘the sharpest knife in Niseko’ is, for a second winter season at Kamimura, bringing his culinary prowess to Hirafu’s Upper Village, on the first floor of the Yamashizen West building. The breakfast offers a ‘traditional northern Japanese experience’, with Yuichi sourcing most of his carefully selected ingredients from Hokkaido. His delectable gourmet breakfast menu boasts a varied selection of tasty, western-style meals. All this can be washed down with a variety of refreshing coffees, teas, hot chocolates and juices. “I have done dinners many times before, so I thought I would try something different and give gourmet breakfasts a go instead,” says Yuichi. For those with a sweet tooth, Kamimura also tempts tantalisingly with rich chocolate cakes, and almond and white chocolate cookies. Breakfast is available now from 7.30am until 10am, while Kamimura’s café is also open for dine-in or take away until 3pm, and the restaurant starts serving from 6pm. The skills that sensei taught student must be good if the rumours are true; apparently Yuichi’s mentor, Tetsuya, refused celeb couple Tom Cruise and Nicole Kidman entry to his world-famous restaurant, Tetsuya’s, because ‘there wasn’t a spare table’. Maybe Tom and Nic should try their luck in Niseko?

DVD giveaways WHILE skiing has always been the rich man’s pasttime, snowboarding has very often been the opposite. In the late ‘80s and early ‘90s, young, free-spirited Japanese with little cash to buy lift passes and pay for fancy accommodation would travel to ski resorts and live out of their cars. They used onsen (public hot spring baths) for bathing and survived on one of the cheapest and tastiest meals known to man – Japanese curry rice (which by the way we highly recommend for a lunch at local ski hill restaurants). They would cook the rice with rice cookers they plugged in to vending machines in resort car parks, and for that reason vending machines in Japan now come with non-standard plugs! Damn snowboarders… This tradition of travelling and living out of cars is celebrated in Hokkaido filmmaker Neil Hartmann’s classic Car Danchi snowboard movie series. ‘Danchi’ means ‘government-sponsored housing’, and the premise behind the films is that all featured riders must be living out their cars while filming and travelling Hokkaido searching for perfect powder. Neil has given Powderlife a complete set of the Car Danchi movies parts 1, 2 and 3 to give away. To win, email a pic of a car buried in powder, like Chris Webb’s above, to ed@ powderlife.com. We’ll print the winner’s pic in the next issue of Powderlife. Six runners up can win a Car Danchi 3 T-shirt.

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cross country

Men and women of the year

Offbeat news from across japan

The Year’s Best… Research In 2008, academics discovered that… A 30cm-long, 130 million-year-old fossil unearthed in Ishikawa Prefecture belongs to the world’s oldest plant-eating lizard

distance delivery vehicles to zero-emission electric cars The number of motor vehicles owned in Japan declined for the first time since people began keeping track in 1946 The number of Japanese retailers who accept the China Pay credit card has risen 50 percent

Menstrual blood can be used to repair heart damage Japanese households increased their energy consumption by 44 percent between 1990 and 2005 Thanks to heat island effect, the average January temperature in Tokyo rose 2.62 degrees during the Eighteen percent of inmates in the nation’s prisons past 50 years are 60 years old or older, compared to just 3 percent in 1975 Men who eat lots of fruits and vegetables are half as likely to suffer esophageal cancer as their junk foodDashi was and blu-ray were included in the latest eating brethren edition of Britain’s Chambers Dictionary East Asians tend to examine faces starting with the nose, whereas just about everyone else focuses on the Products eyes and mouth Hot items from 2008 include… Genetics can account for the variances in physical Valentine’s chocolates flavored with garlic and traits between “mainland” and “Ryukyuan” Japanese, vinegar such as hair thickness and “whether earwax is dry or wet” A medicine cabinet that sets off an alarm when it’s time for senior citizens to take their pills There is a way to measure the brain waves of a cow to determine whether it is afflicted with BSE The Nose Mask Pit, an earplug-like device called that provides relief for hay fever sufferers Caffeine has the effect of relieving pain A printer that can develop still images captured from People who are either socially outgoing or high-definition video “nonconformist” tend to have higher obesity rates than average, while neurotics are skinner DoCoMo’s breathalyzer-enabled cellphone for truck drivers

Trends Over the past 12 months, it was noted that…

An electric bicycle that can travel 150km on a single charge

BLACK DIAMOND

Chinese have surpassed Koreans as Japan’s largest minority group

Miso paste featuring beans that have been serenaded with the music of Johann Sebastian Bach

For the first time since 1979, a full 10 percent of Japan’s population resides in Tokyo

A washable business suit

Japan Post plans to convert its fleet of 21,000 short-

Stats

The world’s smallest walking robot

Polls Survey takers discovered that…

44,700 Number of international marriages in Japan

The average female high school student uses her cellphone 124 minutes per day

27,700 Number of such marriages in 2005

97 percent of Japanese believe it is important to acquire the habit of reading in childhood 61 percent of Chinese feel that relations with Japan have improved, but just 10 percent of Japanese think so

69.2 Percent of plastic bottles that were recycled in fiscal 2007, an increase of 2.9 percent from 2006

40 percent of heavy smokers are unaware of their addiction

294 New HIV cases reported in Japan from July to September, the highest quarterly figure ever

45 percent of Japanese feel “uneasy” about using the internet Over 40 percent of married couples in their 60s sleep in separate bedrooms

400 million Number of illegally downloaded music files each year in Japan

88 percent of Japanese describe themselves as “happy”

Men of the Year

Women of the Year

(According to GQ Japan)

(According to Vogue Nippon)

The year in numbers

Athlete: Swimmer Kosuke Kitajima, 26, won his second consecutive gold medal in the 100m breaststroke—and set his second consecutive world record in the process

Actress: Aoi Miyazaki, 23, won acclaim for her performance in NHK’s historical drama Atsuhime and the films Kagehinata ni Saku (Flowers in the Shadows) and Yami no Kodomotachi (Children of the Dark)

Business: Softbank CEO Masayoshi Son, 51, a.k.a. Japan’s richest man, remained a step ahead of his competitors by introducing Apple’s i-phone to Japan

Athlete: Pitcher Yukiko Ueno, 26, led Japan’s softball team to a surprise gold medal over the US in Beijing

127,066,178 Japan’s population as of March 31, an increase of some 12,000 from the previous year and the first rise in three years 85.99 Life expectancy of Japanese women, an increase of 0.18 years from 2007 23 Consecutive years that Japanese women have topped the global life expectancy list >10,000 People who signed a condolence book at Ueno Zoo for the giant panda Ling Ling, who died in April at age 22

An air purifier that eliminates over 99 percent of airborne bird flu virus in ten minutes

Producer/designer: Nigo, 37, impresario of hipster clothing label A Bathing Ape, celebrated the brand’s 15th anniversary by opening shops in LA and Paris Comedian: Hiroshi Tamura, 29, one half of manzai team Kirin, became an instant success—and instantly rich—after his book chronicling his years as a homeless youth flew off the shelves and became a TV series

Writer: Mieko Kawakami, 32, won the renowned Akutagawa Prize for her second novel, Chi Chi to Ran (Breasts and Eggs), which depicts the travails of a single mother Tarento: Suzanne, 22, gained fame for her convincing act as a baka (airhead) tarento while debuting in a music group and appearing in various TV series and variety shows

Writer/Buddhist nun: Jakucho Setouchi, 86, crafted a Physicist: Yoichiro Nambu, 87, received a Nobel Prize modern take on the classic Tale of Genji and authored in physics along with two Japanese colleagues her own keitai shosetsu (cellphone novel). HF

Compiled from reports by Japan Today, The Japan Times, The International Herald Tribune/Asahi Shimbun, Mainichi Daily News, Time, AP, AFP and Kyodo

RESTAURANT & BAR Japanese & Western Cuisine Good Tunes, Vids, Drinks Free Shuttles (call for pickup) Private Terrain Park Pool Table

GUIDING

Niseko Off-Piste Niseko Back Bowls Rusutsu Tours Kokusai Tours Kiroro Tours Backcountry

SKIER: JP AUCLAIR PHOTO: DAVID LEVIN

Where have you been this week? www.blackdiamondtours.com [email protected]

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090-2054-8687

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niseko news Rail jam kicks off season of comps

Shinya Katou (right), and below Alan, Wayne & Shin

Paddy’s and Jam Bar boost Hirafu pub scene THE Hirafu pubscape has gone from strength to strength this year with all the old favourites returning, and several impressive new additions. Not be outdone by the lower village last season, which saw two new bars in Splash and The Brick, the upper village has this year stepped up to the plate. Paddy McGinty’s Irish Bar stands out like a beacon to thirsty skiers and boarders, located in the middle of the main street in the old building that housed the popular Big Cliff izakaya. Complete with Guinness shipped in from Dublin, the makeover is nothing short of spectacular as the rustic old restaurant has become an Irish bar to match any around the world (and maybe even outdo many in Ireland itself?!). Offering food and drink in a smoke-free environment daily from midday, it will be one of the first foreign-owned Hirafu entertainment venues to open year-round. Locals have applauded owners Roger Donazzon and Wayne Lazarus for the move as it adds another summer food and entertainment venue which will boost Hirafu’s perennial tourist appeal. Managing the bar is Irishman Alan Power who has worked in and run Irish pubs in Tokyo for the past 15 years, and moved to Niseko with his wife and two

daughters especially to run the pub. Pub chef is local character Shin-san, who has worked for the Grand Hirafu resort and at one stage owned his own Italian restaurant. Shin-san is chairman and teacher at the local children’s mogul school and competed when he was young. Just a snowball’s throw away from Paddy’s, old favourite the Jam Bar underwent a complete overhaul over the summer and has sprung up as a completely new building. Formerly just a tiny shack that would cram a few dozen drinkers in for late-night parties, it’s now an impressive building with an amazing new interior created by well-known local carpenter Kuwa-san, who also gave the Dragon Bar it’s incredible overhaul last year. Jam Bar has a funky mix of rainbow colours, wooden sculptures and furniture, all in a Mexican and Mediteranean style. It has to be seen to be truly appreciated. Owner Shinya Katou loves a good party and is famous for his Guru-Guru parties and ¥1000 nomihodais (all you can drink) that last until the alcohol runs out… and he always makes sure he has enough to last almost until dawn.

LOCAL boarders and skiers are getting ready for a night of clean lines and good times as the Après Bar and friends throw down a free ride rail jam. Kicking off at 5pm on December 28, it will be the first of a packed calendar of on-snow events this season. Local rippers are encouraged to sign up and take part, while spectators are encourage to head on in to the Après Bar where they can keep an eye on the proceedings from the floor to ceiling windows. The comp will be a free ride session, with riders and skiers judged on three runs. All skill levels are welcome and there will be prizes for the top three place getters, biggest slam, sickest style, and peer awards, all presented on the night. Entry is ¥1000 and each competitor receives two Red Bulls upon registration. Entry forms are available at Powderlife Café and bars, retail outlets and restaurants around Hirafu, Hanazono, Higashiyama and Annupuri. The entry form needs to be filled out and taken to the Après Bar.

Airline set to help promote Niseko JAPAN’S largest domestic air carrier All Nippon Airways (ANA) has signed an agreement with the Niseko Promotion Board (NPB) with the aim of attracting more domestic tourists to the region. Niseko was chosen above a variety of other Japanese resorts because of its ‘natural beauty, great cuisine, and array of natural hot springs’. The intention is to jointly develop and travel products and packages to summer visitors and yearround long-stay visitors. The ANA group is hoping to bolster its Hokkaido routes with the program using NPB's information, advice, and counsel to create travel packages targeting non-Hokkaido Japanese, in particular seniors, families, and women in their 20s and 30s. The sales points will be onsen, food and nature.

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niseko news Darts takes flight

and company can get involved in. I’m just stoked to play darts – we have created something that everyone enjoys, and that’s just unreal!” And what’s not to like about strokes of genius in team-naming this year – gems like Humphrey Bodart, By Matthew Thomas Pissed By The End, Pissed By The Start, Dart Vaders and, of course, Afraid Of The Dart (that’d be WITHOUT going too berserk on the puns, the third Powderlife’s darts arm). The Mount Hotham-inspired annual Niseko Hirafu International Darts Grand Slam darts event (or so legend has it) this year even makes has really snowballed and taken flight this year. A Hirafu history with the first ever all-girl and allformidable 24 teams were the result of a bumper Japanese girl teams. “It is really getting a good cross early December registration night at the seven-week section of the Hirafu community,” boasts Matt tournament’s home ground, Wild Bill’s (that’s more proudly. than double last year’s team total, and barely Much to the entrants’ delight or dismay, the recognisable from the humble beginnings at Pow Pow infamous ‘Paralyser’ bucket o’ booze appallingly Café two years ago). Tournament instigators Matt and awaits the winners of each night’s play, a drink Az from Niseko Photography have even had to turn arguably more effective than a tranquiliser dart in away unlucky, would-be dart-smiths for lack of space. taking down livestock. Thankfully, The Paralyser is It’s already ballooned from being one night a week served after sharp objects stop flying through the air. for less than 10 teams in the first two seasons, to this This year, we move away from the milk-curdling, year spanning across three evenings on Tuesdays, racially sound Black and White Russian, and turn to a Wednesdays and Thursdays. It’s nothing short of seemingly endless and potent Mohito-based bevvy, shoulder-to-shoulder as darts takes a stranglehold on starring 42 Below’s feijoa vodka. Many agree this at Bill’s on game nights. drink should be fed to the loser, not the winner. “The So, to what can we attribute this newfound Paralyser is designed to caress our taste buds, while penchant for lobbing glorified pins? “It’s because Az stinging us in the brain,” says Az, sounding a fear of a and I are ‘cultural landscape architects’,” a modest man once bitten, twice shy. Matt reveals to Powderlife. A perpetually pinkWild Bill’s owner Brett – who admits to knowing beanied Az adds: “I think because we hyped it up this ‘nada’ about darts, besides the fact that the boards year, and there is nothing else to do here at the are round, and that he buys two new ones each year moment,” he says. “Everyone likes darts, because it is (pool is Brett’s game) – says the general mood for the only thing in the entire village that every person darts this year is ‘off the Richter scale’. “No one has any cash to burn, and there is no damn snow, so darts is all that is keeping anything afloat here,” chimes Brett, after the first round of matches earlier this month. “Players are pretty serious this season – there is no questioning that. All the company owners compete with each other in this village, but it’s nice to see them all gel and get along, even if it’s only for three nights a week.” So, who will it be to knock last year’s premiers, Dart Attack, from the trophy mantle that since last year’s final has resided in Kutchan’s Café Kaku? Who will walk away with all the glory and bragging rights for another season? Only time will tell. Let the crooked trash talk begin, but may your darts fly straight and true.

First points on the board

READY, AIM, FIRE ... a virgin dart board.

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powderlife ISSUE 11 december 26 - january 9 2009 www.powderlife.com

Photos: Niseko Photography

DART UP ... many try their hand each week.

INSTIGATORS... Az and Matt

GAME FACE ... some take their darts very seriously.

FLASH

Powderlife asked visitors what they will be doing on New Years Eve.

seko. for a ski in Ni the mainland m surfing fro d up an d g le el going travellin and Keiko trav Ne w Year by r ei Chie, Tamaki th of t os ing the m They ’ll be mak e. m ho back

Aidan and Ka ii, both Aprè s Bar barten they ’ll be on ders, think the job on N YE, but if th decent hour ey knock of they ’ll be ‘g f at a et tin Après Bar’. g on it… pr obably at th e

e UK will b and the a ow at li sh ra E st Y orld N from Au r rw te th a u R W d e k out ou Deb an girls in th ut came to chec t n u st s a ,b working in Osaka l Studios . o k Universa e is orld ’ in N ‘Snow W

Mountain style

DISCO is not dead and fluoro is the future, scream Mitsuyuki Ohashi’s loud jacket and pants, which can be seen from great distances. The 25-year-old Osaka shredder recently graced Niseko with his fine fluorescent form, and was snapped by Powderlife making a rapid beeline down Hirafu in what can only be described as a bright blue, green, black, pink and yellow streak. “There are many, many colours on my clothes and I like standing out,” he says. “People can see me coming down the mountain from a long way away.” Mitsuyuki’s get up may seem retro and like something out of the ‘80s or ‘90s, but it is in fact the 2008-09 AK release from Burton.

d r lan Fin s thei d m u o n r e f es a sur da Lin but as ostum d n c yet, razy er a Und t to do p in c n Dow wha sing u from ecided e dres a e Cl t d nvolv orks. en ’ i hav s will e fire w n pla g som in see

Après Bar Rubik’s Cube Party

Mar y, on N Geoffre y, YE – getti Suan an ng to d geth Pamela er w ith f from Sin rien ds, e gapore ar ating , dri e doing nkin g an what mo d be ing m st will d o err y !

Phot

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rty r a pa he up fo t ’t h t n i e u ar me w Kyush ying at ho n i a k uo d sta m Fuk en an up fro to an ons o r u b g sa in ! d Dai be go iro an ad they ’ll esponsible Yoich r e t s w n o I H . . E on NY o watch TV yt f amil

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Little Ryoji will probably be wrapped up in bed for the countdown but Ryoko from the Alpen Kids Room says she is going to watch the on-snow celebrations at the base of Hirafu ski hill.

powderlife ISSUE 11 december 26 - january 9 2009 www.powderlife.com

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Nightlife Saturday December 27 Loaf Lounge New Moon Party 9:00pm House music Y1000 with 1 drink

Sunday December 28 Yosaku Dance Event “Link Up Vol.5” 10:00pm Y2000 More info. Call at Shu at 090-8907-9399

Sunday December 28

Thursday January 8th NYE Wednesday December 31 Yuki Bar Count down party Half Note Jazz Concert 9:00pm Free Admission

Live Music & Open Mic 3:30pm – 6:30pm: Resident Thursday musos Kaii & Aiden, play 3 sets of acoustic music and offer the mic and guitars for anyone who wants to get up & jam

Friday January 9th Après Bar Nomi Hodai!! That means all you can drink from 8:00pm – 10:00pm for just Y2000!! All you can drink good times with Playstations, Y500 Mini Pizzas and DJs spinning from 7:00pm – 11:00pm.

Après Bar New Year’s Eve Masquerade Ball Après Bar will be transformed this year into a Masquerade Ball. With the only and best indoor location to view the flare run & fireworks, this is always a sell-out night. Tickets Y1500 available from the bar, include first drink free and Masquerade Mask. We have selected 2 accomplished, party rocking DJs for your NYE soundtrack: DJ Somatik – resident @ The Loft (Syd) & has DJ’d alongside Roy Ayers, Fat Freddy’s Drop & more DJ Lippo – Good Vibrations Club, Good Vibrations Festival & Sounds on Sunday (Syd)

Loaf Lounge Jyaga one party (Hokkaido Potato) 1free French fries

Annupuri Ski Resort Early Morning Gondola Operation. Gondola operates from 7am to 8:20am. Be the first one to enjoy the powder snow. ¥1,000 for lift pass.

Wednesday January 7th Live Music & Open Mic @ Après Bar 3:30pm – 6:30pm: Resident Tuesday strummer Christian, plays 2 sets of acoustic music and offers the mic and guitars for anyone who wants to jam

Ph

phy o Photogra otos: Nisek

Surely the Après Bar aren’t the only place putting on regular parties?! Tell us about your nightlife event @ www.powderlife.com

From 11pm Hirafu New Years Eve Torch Run. Hirafu, outside Apres Bar Gather on the slopes outside the Apres Bar for live music, Japanese Drum performance, throwing 1,000 rice cakes and fireworks, New Years Eve Countdown and the annual torch run as hundreds of skiers holding burning torches form a 12月30日 (火) giant ‘09’ and descend Mt. Annupuri. スノーモンスター・雪の彫刻、雪像大会 Torch run registration desk from 1pm- 3pm 花園スキー場 花園308の前 この機会に雪の彫刻を作ってみませんか。 28-31December. Entry Fee 1,000yen. 12月31日 （水） 比羅夫スキー場　大晦日たいまつ滑走 場所：比羅夫スキー場 イベントスタートは23：00～　アプレバー Wednesday, 31 December NYE at Sekka J-Sekka Dining 6pm – 10pm の外でのライブミュージック、羊蹄太鼓の演 Glass of Bubbles, Hokkaido Oyster, Beef 奏や千個の餅まき、花火、ニューイヤーズイ Carpaccio, Chicken, Tea Hokkaido Diver ブのカウントダウン、そして毎年恒例のたい まつ滑走がご覧いただけます。たくさんの Scallops, Slow Roast Tokkachi Beef, Mix スキーヤー達が2009年の文字を描きなが Leaf Salad, Pre Dessert (its our secret) NIKI Raspberry & Sambucca Semi-Freddo らスキー場を降りてきます。 子供から大人まで楽しめるイベントです。 お問い合わせ www.skihanazono.com

12月28日 （日）、1月1日 （木）～ 4日 （日） アンヌプリスキー場 ゴンドラ早朝運行 ゴンドラを早朝7時から8時20分まで特別 Coffee, Tea & Petit Fors ¥13,000 /person 運行をします。 リフト料金 1,000円 Reservation required. Tel:0136-21-5021 誰も滑っていないゲレンデをどうぞお楽 www.sekkaniseko.com しみ下さい。 １２月 31日 （水） J-Sekka Dining ニューイヤーズメニュー Sunday December 286pm - 10pm 北海道産の食材をふんだん 1:00pm – 5:00pm に使ったコースディナーを用意しておりま Après Bar Rail Jam す。料金は一人1,3000円　お早目の予約を Boarders and skiers of all levels お勧めします。Tel:0136-21-5021

welcome. Y1000 entry (2 x free Red Bulls). Register anytime at the Après Bar. Outdoor Bar and BBQ food for spectators. Come along and check out the action!

www.sekkaniseko.com

Taiko Drum Performances Free traditional Japanese drum performances. Every Sunday outside Hokkaido Tracks office (next to Seicomart) 3:30pm for 30min １２月２8日 （日） 太鼓演奏会 場所はセイコーマートの横、北海道トラッ クス前にて地元太鼓グループによる演奏 会があります。 時間は3：30ｐｍから３０分間程の演奏 です。

Tuesday, 30 December Snow Monster/Sculpture Competition and Giant Pass The Parcel

powderlife ISSUE 11 december 26 - january 9 2009 www.powderlife.com

Thursday, 1January, 0:00 After 108 bells on New Years Eve, Mochi pounding festival will get started in Dragon.Free Sake. Kanpai! 1月1日 （木）0：00除夜の鐘が終わると同時 にDRAGON　では餅つき大会が始まりま す。お酒もふるまわれます。新年の始まりは ドラゴンで！

Thursday-Sunday, 1-4 January Annpuri First Run 7:00am-8:20am Be the first to ski down Niseko’s Mt Annupuri in 2009. First gondola will start at 7am. Y1000 for lift ticket.

Sunday, December 28

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Wednesday, December 31

1pm- 3pm Hanazono , Outside Hanazono 308 Saturday, 27December Build your own snow monster or Red Bar & Restaurant will open. Skilled amazing sculpture. Children, students, Nepalese chefs create authentic and adults can join in. healthy dishes. More info www.skihanazono.com

Sunday, 28 Dec, Thursday, 1 Jan-Sunday 4 Jan

Sunday January 4th Après Ski DJs & Niseko Poker League 3:30pm – 6:30pm - DJs spinning for your Après Ski Enjoyment! 8:00pm – Poker Y500 Buy in, first drink Y300 for players. Tables of 4-5, see Nestor on the night for registration. Players of all skill levels invited.

What’s on in Niseko

12月27日　（土） レッドバー＆レストランがオープンしま す。ネパール人シェフが腕を振るった本 物のヘルシー料理が自慢です。

Paddy McGinty’s Irish Pub Cricket will be shown on TV screens over the new year, along with football from the English Premier League.

Après Bar Niseko Poker League 8:00pm Y500 Buy in, first drink Y300 for players. Tables of 4-5, Red Bar Friday, January 2,9-Every Friday DJ night see Nestor on the night for registration. Players of all 10:00pm skill levels invited. Y1000 with 1 drink included

Wednesday December 31

in the loop

レモニー ヒュッテキングベルの外 10時から毎年恒例の鏡割りが行な われます。お酒は無料サービスなの で飲みすぎに注意！

Wednesday, 31December Annpuri Ski Resort Torch run and Count down with Fireworks Torch run starts at 23:45. Celebrate New Years count down with fireworks!

1月1日 （木）- 1月4日 （日） アンヌプリスキー場　新年初すべり 7:00am-8：20am アンヌプリゴンドラ 料金は1000円 2009年の朝一リフトに乗る のは誰か？ゴンドラ営業は朝の7時オープ ンです。

Thursday, 1January , 10:00

Hirafu Ski Resort, Outside the King Bell Hut Sake Cask Opening Ceremony on mountain to welcome in the New Year. アンヌプリスキー場　たいまつ滑走・新年 カウントダウン花火 23時45分からたいまつ Free sake service. Watch out, for those 滑走がはじまります。その後、新年と同時に trees!! １月１日　（木） 花火を打ち上げます。 比羅夫スキー場　ニューイヤーズセ

Thursday, 1January 13:00 Hirafu, Alpen Hotel Traditional ochi pounding. Have taste of Japanese New Year. １月1日 （木） 餅つき 比羅夫スキー場　アルペンホテル アルペンホテル内でもちつきがおこなわ れます。午後1時ごろのスタートです。

January 4 - 12 Annupuri Ski Resort –Hokkaido Ski & Snowboard Week Nukku Annpuri rental and Annupuri ski school lesson is 10% off 1月4日 （日）　～　12日 （月） アンヌプリスキー場-北海道スキ ー＆スノーボード週間 ヌックアンヌプリ内のレンタル料金、 アンヌプリスキースクールのレッス ン料が10％OFFになります。

Saturday January 10 Snow Tube & Tobboggan Championships at Hanazono Outside Hanazono 308. Join a team of 4 and race around the snow course. More info at www.skihanazono.com 1月10日　（土） 花園スノーチューブ＆そり大会 花園スキー場、花園308 1ｐｍ 4人組を作ってレースに参加しよう！ お問い合わせ：www.skihanazono. com

Got an event on between January 10 and 23? Email us to get it on this page in Issue 3, out January 10.

www.powderlife.com december 26 - january 9 2009 ISSUE 11 powderlife

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Canada Goose Mystique Parka - Women’s

By Bevan Colless and Matthew Thomas Sorel Caribou THE ‘well-heeled’ locals here in Niseko don’t wear heels at all. They wear Sorel Caribous. Think gum boot with oodles of street cred that are extra warm, with extra grip and a smidgen of style points. You can even tuck your jeans into them if you’re wading through deep stuff, or pull them over the top for a token effort at p.m. chic. Rated to -40 degrees celsius, with a waterproof full-grain leather upper attached to a vulcanised rubber bottom, they even have metal shanks across the heel and ball of your foot give you sturdy footing on the ice. The 9mm ThermoPlus felt liner is removable, so you can dry them out between uses. Available from Fusion , Hirafu and Hanazono. Call 0136 21 6633. RRP: ¥20,000 (US$230).

FACE facts. Layering is for the daytime on the hill, and your ski jacket does not cut it in the streets, restaurants and bars at night. Who wants to peel off four layers every time you walk into a new place? If you love the winter life you need a warm down jacket that can be peeled off in a second to reveal your nightlife-ready kit underneath. Canada Goose makes just about the best down jackets you can get, and the Mystique parka is its warmest. Initially designed for Rebecca Romijn to wear off-camera during the filming of X-Men 2, the full-length, fur-trimmed Canada Goose Mystique Parka uses Arctic-Tech fabric and premium down fill to subdue the coldest gusts on your next snowbound location. If the Mystique Parka can keep an actress wearing little more than blue body paint warm in arctic shooting conditions, it’s capable of handling whatever Niseko can throw in your direction. Filled with top quality goose down all the way from the hem to the hood (no 70 per cent duck feathers here!) it is cut as flattering and feminine as a long down jacket can be. Available from Daimaru Department Store, Sapporo. Call 011 828 1111. RRP ¥89,000 (US$1015).

Burton Supermodel BURTON’S beauty, The Supermodel, looks as good as its namesake, and rides…well, let’s stop there, shall we? Almost specifically designed for Niseko’s deep and powdery natural mountain conditions, the Supermodel - a true powder monster - boasts a directional, tapered shape and a short 2.5cm stance setback to give you bountiful float in the fluffy stuff. A fatter nose and skinnier tail sits you right up out of the pow-pow, meaning minimal stress and burn on your back leg. The Powder Fly II wood core absorbs the chatter for a smooth and controlled ride, and includes Carbon I-Beam reinforcements to increase handling for a precision cruise down the mountain. A ridiculously fast, sintered WFO base will keep you hauling along when you break out of the steeps and rip across a wide-open bowl. Add a fresh waxing to the bottom and you’ll really know about it, and find that you are constantly left waiting for friends to catch up after you’ve left them in your powdery wake. New this year, Burton added an ICS ‘The Channel’ system to give you nearly limitless stance options, whether you prefer regular or EST bindings. The Supermodel: snowboarding has never been more attractive. RRP: ¥75,600 (US$860 approx).

Line Sir Francis Bacon COULD this be the perfect Niseko ski? While we know Niseko has got the deep, it only has patches of the steep, so you’re unlikely to be skiing at warp speed for long. So, to rip in Niseko you want a fat ski with a bit of flex to make it a playful powder ski that will pop a bend when you need it. This is exactly what the SFB delivers. It floats on anything, yet still carves the groomers. One of only two skis that got a perfect 10 in Freeskier’s ‘09 test, and is one of the lightest skis out there. Available from Victoria Sports Kanda, Tokyo. Call 03 3295 2955. RRP ¥95,000 (US$1085 approx).

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powderlife ISSUE 11 december 26 - january 9 2009 www.powderlife.com

www.powderlife.com december 26 - january 9 2009 ISSUE 11 powderlife

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welcome irasshaimase

meet the locals By Chika Matsuda

By Saoka Wakasugi

Pelican Burger

ペリカンバーガー

Without a doubt, Gyu+ (the bar with the mini fridge 比羅夫で一番クールなバーといったら、入り口が小さい冷 door as its entrance) is the coolest bar in town. After 蔵庫のドアになっている、ギュウタスに違いないでしょう。 Mt Yotei and the Alpen thermometer, it would have to 後ろには羊蹄山、 そしてアルペンの温度計が、ニセコでもっ be the most photographed landmark in Niseko. So you とも有名な撮影スポットになっています。そんなクールな know the hamburger joint its creator has created in バーのオーナーが倶知安にハンバーガーのお店を作れば Kutchan town is also going to carry a crate load of cool. かっこいい店に間違えないでしょう。お店のデザインとイン Hisashi Watanabe opened Pelican Burger in July, after テリアの建築に2年もの歳月をかけた後、渡辺仙司さんは spending two years designing and building the interior. 今年7月にペリカンバーガーをオープンしました。ペリカン While Pelican’s front door is human sized, Watanabeバーガーの入り口は人間サイズです、正面から奥の壁まで san’s touch is evident from the front façade to the back 渡辺さんのこだわりにあふれたお店になっています。雰囲 walls. After taking in the surrounds you should order 気を十分堪能したら、創作バーガーをオーダーしてみたら one of their creative burgers. Pelcian Burger is opposite いかがですか？　渡辺さんのお勧めは冬にぴったりのクリ the 7-Eleven. ーミーマッシュルーム　ハンバーガーです。

LIFTIE Naka-chan name Kouta Nakano age 27 hometown Sapporo time in niseko 6 years do you like powder? I love it! ski/board? Snowboarder how long have you been snowboarding for? 15 seasons why did you do in summer? Golf, soccer, and had a car crash what languages do you speak? Japanese trips overseas? None where do you want to go next? anywhere overseas favourite... colour Purple brand None food Curry restaurant Loft Club bar Home onsen Koikawa Onsen ski run Strawberry Fields how long will you be in niseko? I don’t know yet where else in the world do you want to go skiing? Whistler what does niseko need? More Japanese people and locals niseko secret? Lots of stink bugs in autumn means lots of snow in winter what’s your life philosophy? Enjoy life’s little pleasures

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名前 ナカノ　コウタ 年齢 27 出身地 札幌 ニセコに来てどのくらいですか？ ６年目 パウダースノーは好きですか？ 大好きです スキーヤー？スノーボーダー？ スノーボーダー スキー歴/ボード歴 １５シーズン 夏には何をしてましたか？ ゴル フ、サッカー、交通事故。。。 話す言語は？ 日本語 海外には行った事ありますか？ ないです 次はどこに行きたいですか？ 外国に行きたいです 好きな… 色は？ 紫 ブランドは？ ノーブランド 食べ物は？ カレー好きです レストランは？ ロフトクラブ バーは？ 自宅 温泉は？ 鯉川温泉 コースは？ ストロベリー ニセコ以外でどこのスキー場に 行きたいですか？ ウィスラー　 ブラッコム ニセコにはどのくらいいる予定で すか？わかりません ニセコに今無い物で、必要だと思 うものは？ 日本人と地元の人 ニセコの秘密は？ カメムシ予報 あなたの人生観は？ 小さな幸せ を楽しむこと

SKI SHOP MANAGER Nabe name Yoshihiro Watanabe age 37 hometown Rankoshi how long has your family lived here? More than 100 years do you like powder? No ski/board? Ski how long have you been skiing for? We learn how to ski when we’re in school what languages do you speak? I’m Japanese so I speak Japanese trips overseas? None where do you want to go next? Nowhere favourite... colour Yellow brand North Face food Fish eggs restaurant None bar None onsen Ikoinomura ski run Super Course how long will you be in niseko? Until I die where else in the world do you want to go skiing? Whistler what does niseko need? More transport infrastructure niseko secret? You can sometimes tanuki (Japanese raccoons) crossing the road what’s your life philosophy? Effort will always pay off

powderlife ISSUE 11 december 26 - january 9 2009 www.powderlife.com

名前 ワタナベ　ヨシヒロ 年齢 ３7 出身地 蘭越 ニセコに来てどのくらいですか？ 明治時代くらいから パウダースノーは好きですか？ NO スキーヤー？スノーボーダ ー？ スキー スキー歴/ボード歴 学校では小さいときから体育授業 なぜニセコに来たのですか？ 住みたいから 夏には何をしてましたか？ 仕事 話す言語は？日本人なので日本語 海外には行った事ありますか？ なし 次はどこに行きたいですか？ 特になし 好きな… 色は？ 黄色 ブランドは？ノースフェイス 食べ物は？ 魚卵 レストランは？ なし バーは？ なし 温泉は？ いこいの村 コースは？スーパーコース ニセコ以外でどこのスキー場に行 きたいですか？ウィスラー ニセコにはどのくらいいる予定で すか？ 死ぬまで ニセコに今無い物で、必要だと思 うものは？ 交通のインフラ ニセ コの秘密は？ タヌキが道を横切 っている姿が見られる あなたの人生観は？ 成せばどう にか成るもんだ

SKI PATROL Zangi name Zangi age 11 months hometown Sapporo time in niseko 9 months do you like powder? Yes! ski/board? Patrol how long have you been skiing for? 1 month why did you come to niseko? I was destined to be the mascot dog here what did you do in summer? Ran around in the dog run at Pure what languages do you speak? Ruff Ruff! trips overseas? Not yet where do you want to go next? Somewhere warm favourite... colour Red brand Pedigree Chum food Couch, beanie, snow, dog food restaurant A bowl of dogfood bar I love a bowl of chai tea onsen I love drying off after onsen ski run Zangi Course how long will you be in niseko? As long as I’m the mascot what does niseko need? Dog socks niseko secret? You can see me! what’s your life philosophy? Eat well, play well, sleep well

名前 ザンギ 年齢 １１カ月 出身地 札幌 ニセコに来てどのく らいですか？ ９カ月 パウダースノーは好きですか？はい スキーヤー？スノーボーダー？ パトロール巡回　２足の足 スキー歴/ボード歴 １カ月 なぜニセコに来たのですか？　 マスコット犬の宿命を受けて 夏には何をしてましたか？ ピュア 内のドッグランで走りまわってました 話す言語は？ ワン 海外には行った事ありますか？ま だです 次はどこに行きたいですか？今、 寒いので暖かい所 好きな…色は？ 赤 ブランドは？ ぺディグリーチャム 食べ物は？ ソファー、帽子、靴下、 雪、 ドックブード レストランは？ 大盛りのドックフードお願いしま す バーは？ “チャイ”をどんぶり いっぱい飲むことが大好きです コースは？ ザンギコース ニセ コ以外でどこのスキー場に行き たいですか？ここが一番好き ニセコにはどのくらいいる予定 ですか？ マスコットでいる限り ずーっと ニセコに今無い物で、必要だと思 うものは？ 犬専用くつ下 ニセコの秘密は？ 私に会えるこ とあなたの人生観は？よく食べ、 よく遊び、 よく寝る

Pension Ramina Like many in Niseko, Ramina Pension owner ShunichiFujimine is living the dream. Since his university days more than 30 years ago, he dreamed of owning his own accommodation in the mountains. He had lived near the mainland ski resorts around Nagano and Yuzawa but after coming to Niseko, fell in love with Mt Yotei and the local mountains. Seven years ago he quit his job as a businessman and opened Ramina. It’s a huge wooden mountain lodge just outside Hirafu, which he and his wife run year-round. It’s a lot more work than he imagined, but he loves meeting so many people from all over the world. By the way, in the local indigneous Ainu people’s dialect, ‘ra’ means heart and ‘mina’ means smile.

Niseko 343

ラミーナ　ペンション

ラ ミ ー ナ ペ ン ション の オ ー ナ ー の 藤 峯 　 俊 一 さ ん は 3 0 年 以 上 前 の 学 生 時 代 か ら 、山 で ペ ン シ ョ ン を 持 つ の が 夢 で し た 。長 野 や 湯 沢 と い っ た ス キ ー リゾ ート の 近 くに 住 ん だ あ と ニ セ コ 、羊 蹄 山 の 山 々 が 他 に は な い 山 の 懐 の 深 さ の 魅 力 を 持 っ て い る こ と に 感 銘 を 受 け 、7 年 前 に ラ ミ ー ナ ペ ン ション を オ ー プ ン さ せ まし た 。 木 の ぬ くも り が 感 じ ら れ る 大 き な 宿 は 比 羅 夫 の と な り に あ り 、奥 さ ん と 一 緒 に 一 年 中 営 業 し て い ま す 。仕 事 は 想 像 以 上 に 大 変 で す が 、 世 界 中 か ら 来 る お 客 様 と 交 流 し 、ニ セ コ の 魅 力 を 伝 える の を 楽し ん で い ま す。

ニセコ343

When it comes to grass roots, Niseko ski stores, it doesn’t ニ セコ のス キ ー 専 門 店 の 草 分 け 的 存 在 で ある “ ニ come any greener than Niseko 343. Started 15 years ago by セコ 3 4 3 ” は 、ニ セコ の パウダ ーとス キ ー をよく知 Odaijima-san (left), Niseko 343 knows Niseko, deep powって いるオ ー ナ ー の 小 田 島 さん が 1 5 年 前 に お 店 を der... and skiing deep powder in Niseko. The pro-ski shop’s オ ープンしました 。　 当 初 からスタッフとして 働 い current manager and local legend Toki-san (right) has been て い て、現 在 は マ ネ ージャー をして いるトキ さん there since the beginning. Toki-san has been a the coach for は 、以 前 、フリースタイルス キ ーとモ ーグ ルス キ ー the national freestyle and mogul ski teams. If you’re looking 全 日 本 チ ー ム の コ ー チ をして い た 経 験 もありま す。 to get deep in Niseko and want to be looked after by local 　 ニ セコで の 滑りをとことん 楽しみ た い なら、地 元 experts, Toki and the crew should be your first port of call. スタッフ が お 手 伝 いしま す。ニ セコ のフィー ルド に And as for those damn snowboarders, Toki-san is happy to 合った 商 品 を 幅 広く取り揃えて い ま す。　 ニ セコ have them, but prefers to specialise in what he knows best – 3 4 3 は 北 海 道トラックスとカフェ　 キラの 向 か い に powder skiing.. Niseko 343 is opposite Hokkaido Tracks and あります。 Café Kila. www.niseko343.com.

www.powderlife.com december 26 - january 9 2009 ISSUE 11 powderlife

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Skis

vs boards: The battle for pride,

place…and powder. IT’S the eternal battle. To ski or to board? That is the question. For decades now it’s been heatedly argued out in bars après ski…or should that be après board? Traditionally, there was much more animosity that existed between skiers and boarders. These days, the two ‘races’ live in harmony…of sorts. Although, we do still live in a world far from a utopia, where we all know there is still often a deep-seeded, underlying conflict between the two breeds of snow creatures – even if it is not so visible and obvious in this day and age, unlike between warriors Trevor Dobson and Ross Monaghan, from Pro Powder guides, in the picture below. This heated debate has even translated into fisticuffs. There are many stories of ice hockey-style fights breaking out on the mountain – even in the peaceful powder paradise that is Niseko. Conflict such as this is not something unique to the snow. There are a whole gamut of sports where there exists a fundamental divide between genres – even if many of their goals are inherently similar. Melting from snow to the water, surfers and bodyboarders

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The powder and the passion: Locals speak from experience… When selecting your powder weapon of choice, there are many things to consider. We thought we would leave it to those who are passionate about their chosen discipline for slicing through Niseko’s plentiful powder.…

By Kristian Lund and Matthew Thomas

also have their differences of opinion, as do waterskiers and wakeboarders. Then, of course, there’s rugby and football (soccer), road cycling and mountain biking, and karate and tae kwon do. The list goes on… We digress, though. Skiers are popularly considered to be your traditional, well-to-do snow riders, while boarders will always have the label of being ‘the rebel’. There are more than just differences of opinion that spark such a clash. They just sometimes plain and simple get on each other’s nerves. As far as terrain goes, skiers are renowned for forming a snowboarder’s worst nightmare – the mogul. Conversely, boarders are blamed for pushing the snow to the side of the slopes so the piste becomes bare, and skiers in Niseko complain that tracks left by boards in powder make a run difficult to ski through. Believe it or not, even to this day there are many ski resorts around the world that still don’t allow boarders on their slopes. In the land of the free, the United States, there are still four major resorts that say ‘no’ to snowboarding – Deer Valley, Alta, Mad River Glen and Taos Ski Valley. To retort in the typical rebellious nature of boarders, snowboard giant Burton recently put out a US$5000 bounty for any snowboarder who rode the slopes of elitist, antisnowboarding resorts. Five years ago, it was undisputable that snowboards were the ultimate powder tool. Snowboards had a huge influence on skis, arguably

powderlife ISSUE 11 december 26 - january 9 2009 www.powderlife.com

POWDER SLASH... unidentified boarder throwing some spray. Photo: Glen Claydon

breathing new life into the ski industry. But how times have changed. These days, with the advent of fat powder skis, it is a level playing field. Now the difference isn’t so great between the two, adding fuel to the fire and giving the debate more momentum. The invisible divide between skiers and snowboarders has existed for many years. It’s almost a tired old cliché. However, there’s one interesting and relevant little aspect in particular that we decided to put to the test: What’s better for Niseko powder - skis or boards?

SNOW SAMURAIS ... Trevor and Ross from Pro Powder joust it out.

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HOKKAIDO Tracks founder Simon Robinson has been skiing regularly for 35 years. In that time he has snowboarded for about four days, and never in good conditions. “By the time snowboarding came around I was already a proficient skier, so I didn’t like the idea of changing,” he says. “But I did see them (snowboarders) slicing through some slush (Aussie powder) at Perisher in a way that we never could on the thin skis we were using then. But soon after that, the first parabolic skis came out and they gave skiers the ability to get through terrain in a very similar way to snowboarders.” Simon likes the fact that it takes a long time to be able to become proficient enough on skis to be able to ski powder and go into the backcountry, and he also likes the extra accessibility skis afford him. “Skiers and boarders go down the

“I’m a hardcore skier, and will never, ever convert” mountain in different ways and I just feel skiing is more compact and graceful, whereas snowboarding is more free-form,” he says. “Skiers go down the fall line of the hill and can do more fresh turns side-byside, but snowboarders tend to surf the mountain and go across it. At the end of the day, I’m a hard core skier and will never, ever convert”.

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POWDERLIFE’S publisher, physiotherapist and powder hound Bevan Colless kicked off his snowboarding career in 1994 - and never looked back. His first time bound into a board was back in the heyday of snowboards, riding in Gunma, on Japan’s mainland. Bevan also got his first taste of Niseko powder that year, which whet his appetite and saw him settling here years later for the 2006-07 season.

“Ripping through powder on a snowboard is one of the best feelings in the world” “I grew up in a working class family and my brothers used to always say skiers were wankers, so I found it hard to see myself as a skier after making fun of them in my youth,” says Bevan, who admits to skiing a total of seven days in his entire life. “I knew when I tried it the first time, snowboarding was always going to be my thing.” When it comes to shredding through the pow-pow, Bevan, who rides a locally invented and produced Gentemstick, says snowboarding wins hands down. “I’ve never skied in powder, but when I look at a skier going through deep powder, it doesn’t really look like as much fun, it looks like hard work. However, when I see a snowboarder ripping through powder - and I know the feeling myself - I know it’s one of the best feelings in the world.” So, given the chance, would Bevan ever make the dirty switch? “No, not really,” he responds. “If I could download the ability to ski really well into my brain, I’d definitely illegally download that program. I obviously can’t do that, so can’t see myself going back to be a beginner again – there aren’t enough days in winter, I reckon I would feel like I was wasting a day if I went skiing.”

th o B

HAILING from Canada, Black Diamond Tours guide and co-owner Andrew Spragg grew up riding mountains. He started skiing when he was four years old, before first jumping on a board when he was 15. In his 20s he spent more time strapping into snowboards than clicking into skis, but these days he ends up doing a lot of both – mainly snowboarding in his free time and skiing when guiding in the backcountry. While he loves both, when it comes to the crunch, snowboarding is Andrew’s favoured form of sliding down the mountain. When guiding, he’s usually on skis for the ease of getting around the backcountry and hiking mountains – there’s no need for snowshoes and he’s much more mobile. But when it comes to his free time, though, he jumps back on the board. “I love going up the mountain on skis because it’s so quick and easy, but then when I get to the top I wish I had my board,” he says. “When it comes to guiding, I generally ski because you can get around better – there’s no equivalent on a snowboard to allow you to get around the back country. It doesn’t matter what system you use – if you’ve got a regular board you’ve got snowshoes on your back; if you’ve got a split board you still have changeover time when

“I love going up the mountain on skis, but then when I get to the top I wish I had my board” you have to put it back together and rotate the bindings. With skis all you have to do is take your skins off, click your heals down and you’re ready to go. But overall, in powder for me it’s definitely a snowboard – ultimately when you’re on a snowboard you float through the powder; it’s more suited to riding powder.”

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Face off... INSTRUCTORS Trevor Dobson and Ross Monaghan (pictured left) may be brothers in business, but when it comes to their choices in snow craft, they can’t help but face off. Trevor, skier, founder and owner of Niseko’s Pro Powder, and snowboarder Ross, one in the company’s small yet skilled team of instructors, specialise in teaching both skiers and boarders specifically how to ride in powder - so they know a bit about getting through the fluffy stuff. Powderlife sat down for a Q & A with Trevor and Ross to find out a little more about their powder-coated lives, and the reasons behind their choices of snow transport.

TREVOR

When did you start skiing? “I grew up 10 minutes from a ski slope, so I started skiing when I was five years old. At that time, there weren’t any snowboards around, there was only one choice for me.” What is best about skiing Niseko powder? “It’s so light here that on skis you can really get deep into the snow. Every turn you feel as if the snow is rolling around your shoulders and you get face shots. I just don’t get that same feeling when I snowboard. I also think you can make more turns when you’re skiing than you can when you’re boarding. When I come off the peak I can rip four or five massive turns on skis and still maintain my speed. I couldn’t achieve that on a board.” What advantages do skiers have over boarders in Niseko? “The access is a big bonus for skiers. We can get to places and carve lines on the

voice of the

people The

Skiers and boarders in Niseko have their say…

Powderlife took to the slopes to ask the public what craft they thought was best suited to the powder – and why? Yuyu, Kanazawa:

“I have skied all my life, but I think snowboarding is better in powder. I am a ski instructor and ski in my spare time, too, but I would like to try snowboarding in the deep powder - I don’t have a board at the moment, though.”

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What are the disadvantages of skiing? “Going too deep in the powder can sometimes be a negative, as it’s really hard to get through. Another thing would be when you bail; if you completely ‘yard sale’ you can spend a long time looking for your gear, and sometimes turn up a piece or two short. Two years ago, I found one of my skis I lost in pow, that decided to turn up after the winter in May.”

ROSS When did you start snowboarding, and when did you start getting serious about being an instructor? “I have been boarding for 12 years, since I was 13 years old. I have worked the past three seasons as an instructor trainer in various resorts in British Columbia in Canada.” When did you realise you were forever going to be a snowboarder? “I was hooked the first time I ever rode a snowboard. I had learnt to ski first, but once I rode, I knew that it was for me. I still ski two or three times a year, and am learning to tele-mark, but I’ll always be first and foremost a boarder.”

“I’ve never tried skiing, so I don’t know really, but when it comes to what’s better in the powder, both would be okay. I don’t see any difference because regardless of what you ride, it’s what you enjoy doing that counts.”

“I don’t know much about skiing, but I have boarded in China and Korea and I think snowboarding would be better in the deep powder because there is more surface area on a board.”

Joanne, Australia:

David, Australia:

“I haven’t really ridden skis in deep powder before, but everyone says it is easier to stay on top of the powder on a board. But in saying that I would like to give skis a try in the powder, too. I used to ski, but when I first got some powder on a snowboard, that was enough to make me convert and I haven’t looked back.”

powderlife ISSUE 11 december 26 - january 9 2009 www.powderlife.com

Breaking it down…

When it comes to skiing and snowboarding, neither is perfect - each have their positives and negatives…

Pros

Snowboarding:

* Larger surface area means better float in the powder. * Boards are easier to control in deep snow, as there is only one plank to worry about. * Beginners can generally become more proficient in the powder faster. * Less chance of knee injuries. * The ‘cool’ factor.

Cons * Harder work when hiking the back country, because you also need to carry snowshoes and poles. * You can’t skin up a mountain without a split board. * Boards are not good in flat areas of the back country, and are only practical when going down. You need to walk or ‘skate’ on flat terrain. * Harder to get up when you fall in powder. Think of a turtle. * Wear out the mountain’s snow faster.

Pros

Skiing:

*Easier to get around in the back country – no showshoes required, just add skins and you can climb a mountain. *Skiers can generally get deeper into, and go faster through, the powder. * The ‘old school’ factor.

What are the negatives that come with snowboarding? Access. I can be going up a ridge line with skiers and they’ll skin up and get to the top an hour before me while I’m floundering away in my snow shoes in the powder. Hitting dead spots at the bottom of runs is also not much fun. Falling in powder and doing ‘the turtle’ is pretty average, flapping away and trying to get up.”

* You can get too deep in the powder, and it can get quite hard to ride through such depth. * Harder to become powder proficient in a short time – have to be a pretty high-level skier to handle deep powder well. However, some who reach this high level see it as a rewarding, hard-to-attain positive. * Skiing deep powder is harder work and you need to be fitter and stronger. * Can require more powder-specific equipment than boarding.

Skis: Fatter skis for more surface area, which gives float in powder snow.

Tighter ‘DIN’ settings on your boots in the powder, so skis don’t separate from the bindings as easily, which saves you from losing your skis in powder.

Jonathan, Hong Kong:

“For an older bloke riding in powder, I think snowboarding is harder work for me, with all the falling down and getting up all the time. When I ride skis in powder, I find it a little easier on my body.”

Pros and cons

What is it you enjoy most about snowboarding? “I love the feeling of carving a turn in powder, getting a face shot, not being able to see where you’re going. I love hitting jumps of natural hits in powder, too. The landings are like bouncing off pillows. Slashing lines off a bank or covering a tree in powder is all so much fun.”

Emi, Tokyo:

Dave, Australia:

“Skiing is definitely better in the powder – is there any question? I’ve never tried to snowboard before – and I’m too old to learn - but I have a good friend who went from skis to snowboard and back to skis again because they learned all there was to learn. I hear that story all the time, that skis are more of a long-term challenge in powder.”

hill that snowboarders can’t reach. And we don’t have to worry about the flat spots at the bottom of our runs like snowboarders do, so we have a much wider selection of terrain to ski. I have snowboarded quite a bit over the years, and I still board occasionally, but usually when the conditions aren’t great. I’ve taken up tele-marking now, too, so my boarding days are becoming fewer and fewer.”

Stiffness in the ski around the bindings gives more security and faster response.

Flexibility at ends gives more pop in the pow.

Boards:

Cons

POWDER POP ... changing direction in style. Photo: Glen Claydon.

Fat nose so front end stays out of powder. Minimises burn in rear leg.

Directional. Means board is designed to mainly travel in one direction – forwards.

There should be a larger difference between ‘effective edge’ (the length of the board touching the ground) and actual length of the board. This means a larger part of the board rises up out of the powder.

Bindings should be set back. Powder-specific boards will have holes drilled further back in the board.

Narrow or swallow tail means easier, more responsive carving.

The final say: Can’t we all just live in powdery peace? FOR those who want to fight it out, you can do so diplomatically at our website’s Noticeboard forum at www.powderlife.com – start a forum discussion, or just simply vote, and see where things go. It must be said, though, that at the end of the day, on whatever mountain you choose, it doesn’t matter what you’re riding. Really, it’s what you’re doing out there that should do all the talking. And if you’re getting amongst the powder in Niseko, you’re probably having a pretty darn good time regardless…

Have your say What’s better for powder skis or boards? Vote online and see results next issue. www.powderlife.com www.powderlife.com december 26 - january 9 2009 ISSUE 11 powderlife

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rider Adrian Camp photo Glen Claydon

Photo: Niseko Photography

Photo: Niseko Photography

Photo: Niseko Photography

Photo: Glen Claydon

Photo: Niseko Photography

Photo: Niseko Photography

words

d n a s u o h t …A

EARLY-SEASON MUSHROOMS...taking turns at Hanazono. Photo: Niseko Photography

powder tracks

By Nick Jackson

Andy Gulverhouse Powderlife caught up with Andy Gulverhouse, a newly arrived local shredder from England who hits the bars just as hard as he hits the slopes. We find out what makes him tick. Name Born Stance Setup Favourite terrain Favourite move Time in Niseko Time riding?

Andy ‘Nasher’ Gulverhouse 2/10/72 Stance, width and angle: 57cm, 15° front, 15° back GNU 11up/ Burton Cartels Backcountry trees FS Indy 180 Four months Three years

Andy’s iPod Top 10 1. Strokes - Someday 2. Kings of Leon - Milk 3. Razorlight - In The Morning 4. Dolly Parton - Jolene 5. Notorious BIG - Juicy 6. Kings of Leon - The Bucket 7. Hed Kandi - Sun in my Eyes 8. The Smiths - Panic 9. Goldie Looking Chains - Guns Don’t Kill People 10. Oasis - Wonderwall

Album reviews Kanye West, 808 & Heartbreaks, 2008 LAST issue, I reviewed Lil Wayne’s Tha Carter. It had a synth-vocal overlay that annoyed the s*!# out of me. I’m afraid to say that Kanye West’s new album has surpassed its predecessor with ease. This dull and lifeless album is not what Kanye is known for; there’s no flamboyant self-promoting, there’s no heavy bass lines with catchy hooks, just a whole steaming heap of crap. Kanye said, “I am the No. 1 human on Earth in the music industry”, but after this album, he would be fighting it out to stay in front of Peter Andre, who sits somewhere at a lowly No. 982. Rating: 1 ‘That’s All It’s Worths’ out of 5. N.E.R.D, Seeing Sounds, 2008 THE is the hip-hop album of the year - in my eyes anyway. Every song from Intro right through had me tapping along with the beat. Seeing Sounds is a very funk-influenced album with 1930s swing drumbeats all through it. The lyrics were unsyncopated and unusual, but that just made it all the better. The variation of the album is also great, going from a heavy, thumping club tune, then on to a melodic rock tune, all without losing that N.E.R.D sound. The remixes are even great. I can’t really fault it…Genius! Rating: 4 ‘Buy This Album Legallys’ out of 5. Eagles of Death Metal, Heart On, 2008 FANS of dirty rock would really, really enjoy this - I mean really! Eagles of Death Metal was formed by frontman of Queens of the Stone Age Josh Homme, and close high school friend and rock demon Jesse Hughes. They started the Eagles as a gimmick band as a side project for QOTSA, but with this album, they have really shown that they are more than serious with continuing what they are doing. Heart On is comparable to the Foo Fighters of the ‘90s, with great guitar riffs and lyrics sung the way rock lyrics should be. These guys are truly flying the flag for old school rock and roll. Rating: 4 ‘Moustachioed Rock Gods Playing Guitar Hero at 3am Swigging Jack Daniels’ out of 5. www.powderlife.com december 26 - january 9 2009 ISSUE 11 powderlife

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Earning your avalanche stripes By Matthew Thomas

A POINT IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION .. Chuck demonstrates to hikers that there is more to the back country than meets the eye. YOU will never be 100 per cent safe in the back country. The fact that you can be severely injured or die out there is, ironically, a fact of life. However, you can go to measures to minimise the risks and ensure you are as safe as possible out there. This is especially necessary when skiing, boarding or hiking the back country of avalanche-prone Hokkaido.

A PRIVATE MOMENT ... a lone snowboarderz enjoys some solo time with just him and nature.

I RECENTLY went along to a weekend recreational avalanche course with seven other keen students from all over Hokkaido, who were also thirsty for knowledge. The class was led by experienced Furano local and regular visitor to Niseko, Chuck Olbery, alongside Japanese guide, Nori Watanabe - both from guiding company, Hokkaido Powder Guides. Going into the Canadian Avalanche Assocation-recognised class with basically no prior knowledge or experience, the two-day intensive course gave me a comprehensive, practical, entry-level understanding of how to prevent avalanche disasters, and how to minimise the damage or deadliness of an avalanche should it strike. This knowledge was worthwhile, as after all, avalanches are some of the most powerful forces of nature known to man, smothering, deadly and fast as they reach speeds of up to 200km/h.

locate those trapped within. After lunch, we then took the gondola to the top of Higashiyama, where, armed to the teeth with shovels and snow saws, Chuck and Watanabe san instructed us how to test and assess the snow pack for weaknesses by literally cutting apart the snow and looking at its ‘history’. The different types of snow beneath the surface – a variance of rock-solid ice, powder and sugar-like granules – were fascinating; it was much like peeling back the skin of an onion, or looking at the age rings of an old tree. These were telltale signs of the stability, or instability, of the snow. These snow pack tests were only something I had seen in skiing and snowboarding movies, and I’m glad to now say I know how to perform these tests myself. Later on in the night, in the warm, comforting setting of upper Hirafu’s Après Bar, while nursing a couple of well-deserved Kirins, a movie and presentation fleshed out the technical side Day 1: of things - mainly focussing on environmental aspects of avalanches. We learned what angle grade and parts After a briefing, we were taken out into a snowy field, of the mountain were avalanche traps, along with armed only with a backpack filled with shovels, what kinds of snow, and even sounds of snow, mean beacons and probes – objects all foreign to me prior you should basically get the hell out of there. On the to this course. First of all, we were taught how to preventative side, we also learned how to read the operate a beacon by burying several of them in a weather forecasts and assess other environmental massive, snow-coated field, and were then asked to factors, in order to make a safe and sound decision to track them all down. As we learned, initially head out back, or not. I will never go riding or hiking nonsensical bleeps and flashes on the dial soon and look up only to see simply snow and a mountain turned to coherent directions. It is harder than it ever again. I now see so much more. looks, believe me – which is why I wasn’t surprised to hear that it is quite common for many to venture into the back country with a beacon and absolutely no idea of how to work the thing. We were then taught the right way to use a probe, an object which, by its namesake, is used to probe through the snow to

BREATHER ... students stop for a break after riding fresh tracks from the peak of Iwaonupuri.

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Day 2: Today, we put all our newfound knowledge into action. We drove half-an-hour outside Niseko to a mountain called Iwa Annapuri, where our group hiked, then, retracing our tracks, we boarded and skied down in some of the freshest thigh-deep powder I’ve had all season. Besides the hike being a rude shock to the system by way of snow fitness and strength (in parts I was sinking in snow up to my waist – the curse of the large-framed man), this was a practical way of putting into action all we learned the day prior. To close out the course, we were thrown into an avalanche simulation exercise. We were, all of a sudden, a group of people on a mountain struck by an avalanche - the only ones who remained above snow level. An unknown number of victims were stuck below in a snow death trap, and we were the only ones who could get them out. With the snow all messed up and debris everywhere – skis, gloves and poles littered the site – we needed to track down all the beacons that had been cunningly buried beneath more than a metre of powder by our guides. Showing dedication and sacrifice to his craft, Chuck became a human icicle, burying himself in a creek bed in minus-three-degree temperatures. Without time for preparation, our group needed to come up with the best plan of action, then employ all our new knowledge. I’m pleased to say we tracked down the all beacons and, thankfully, Chuck, in close to 10 minutes – considering the situation, a very good time, say our guides. This was proof and affirmation that what we learned actually worked. Plus, we got a nifty little Canadian Avalanche Association certificate for our troubles.

niseko survival guide I’m not ignorant enough to make myself believe this course equipped me with all I need to know about snow disaster; quite the contrary, it gave me a thirst to seek more. As they say, the day you think you know everything is they day you stop learning. Follow up courses and more experience in the back country will certainly be on the horizon. But, all in all, this weekend did provide me with the stepping stone I needed, along with affording me a healthy respect for the snow that I never really had until now.

you’re going to be home. Then, call this person and let them know when you arrive home safely. • Think about the snow pack, weather and terrain. Know what’s dangerous and what are the ‘red lights’ for the snow pack, such as hollow sounds under foot; ‘whoomphing’ noises; cracking around skis, board or snowshoes; and the most obvious, recent avalanches in the area you plan to visit. • On the terrain side, be aware of cornices and convex slopes and also areas where the snow might build up below you on the mountain, such as gullies. Chuck Olbery’s top tips for avalanche • Red lights for the weather are 2.5cm per hour or safety 30cm overnight of snowfall; wind over 15m/s is cause for concern; rain on new snow; and temps at zero or • Have the right equipment – at the very least a above degrees celsius. beacon, probe and shove – and more importantly, • Travel safely in avalanche-prone terrain. If you’re know how to use it. skiing or riding down in avalanche zones, go one at a • In the car park, make sure beacons are time; have one person at the top and one person at transmitting before you head out. the bottom spotting you; don’t have ski poles tied • Have an experienced partner who also knows how around wrists because they can act as anchors if you to use all of the gear. It is useless and dangerous are caught. going out there unless you are with someone who • If an avalanche does come down around you, knows how to extricate you from an avalanche. know beforehand safe areas to escape or retreat to, • Before you head out, check the weather forecast. such as 45 degrees out of the avalanche’s path; Know what the snow, wind and rain are doing, and behind a clump of trees; behind or under a rock; or a whether these conditions will make stability trends high point on the slope. better, worse or the same. * Hokkaido Powder Guides is holding another • Check on avalanche conditions at the time by avalanche course in January. For more information, checking avalanche reports posted on gates of the call 0167 225 655 or 080 3492 0433. Alternately, email back country, or ask guides, friends or patrol about [email protected] or check www. conditions. Alternately check the regular and accurate hokkaidopowderguides.com. internet postings by experienced Niseko local, Akio * Check out the next fortnight’s edition of Powderlife Shinya, at http://niseko.nadare.info/. for survival tips for when you actually get stuck in an • Make sure someone knows your plans for the day avalanche. – where you’re going, what you’re doing and when

DIGGING DEEP ... Powderlife associate editor Matthew Thomas digs a snow pit.

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PAYING ATTENTION ... the class watches as Chuck tests the snow.

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restaurant review

By Kat and Kim

Okonomiyaki Jyuu Sekka chefs Kat and Kim introduce us to Okonomiyaki at Jyuu. AT Jyuu, okonomiyayi is the star of the restaurant, not just one item in a list on many on a food court menu. We love a good yaki (fried dish) and many a time have whipped one up at home from my step mom Akiko’s recipe, and we loved hearing about the restaurants in Japan that served this dish and nothing else. The owners of Okonomiyaki Jyuu are from Osaka, the spiritual home of the okonomiyaki, so it was a genuine piece that we were going to try. Located midway between Higashiyama, Annupuri and Niseko town, it’s kind of all by its lonesome, but this doesn’t seem to have slowed business - there are only a few tables spare when we arrive. Leaving our shoes in the rack and having a good laugh at trying to fit into the inside slippers (you’d think there’d be one pair of size 12 slippers somewhere in Japan!?) we plonk down at a table. The table has a flat grill in the center to keep the goodies warm and is set with essential okonomiyaki tools. There’s an English version of the menu so no pantomime tonight. We are both immediately drawn to the beef tendon and kim chii combination so we know that’s going to feature soon in our future. The other we go for is the thinly sliced pork belly, but now we’re faced with another choice – the standard okonomiyaki base; negiyaki, a thinner base topped with spring onion, lemon and tempura flakes; or nariyaki, a thin base with garlic chive, lemon and tempura flakes. Decisions, decisions. In the end we go for the beef tendon on the negiyaki and the pork belly on the okonomiyaki. The order travels not far, in fact only two meters away to three huge flat grills where the magic is performed. Sitting on one corner slowly bubbling away all night is a pot of the beef tendon, mmm!

We watch as the okonomiyaki batter is the first to be poured on to the grill, followed by the pork. Next to it the negi batter is poured on too before being topped with the tendon and kim chii, then a mountain of spring onion, pickled ginger and tempura flakes. These are left to cook as we sit and squirm in hunger with the delicious aromas wafting around and our food with in touching distance. As soon as the okonomiyaki and negiyaki are half cooked, they’re flipped over. When they’re just about done, an egg is cracked onto the grill, and the okonomiyaki flipped over onto that. As this is done, our table grill is turned on to warm for the arrival of the treats. The okonomiyaki is topped with Japanese Worcester sauce, aonori, kewpie and bonito shavings so fine they dance and wave in the heat given off from the okonomiyaki with the still soft egg sitting below. The negiyaki is topped with a slice of lemon and both are brought to the table and placed on the grill. I was concerned that they might over cook on the grill but after the first bite there was no concern that they would be around long enough for that to happen. We tried the negiyaki first. The tempura flakes have been cooked in to a crispy golden crust covering it. The tendons are melt in the mouth and the kim chii is not so strong that it overpowers but just lets you know it’s there. The okonomiyaki is a beast of a completely different kind, with its thick batter, Worcester and mayo, it’s so rich and so savoury it fills your mouth with umami. We seem to enter a fugue state, all the conversation ends and only the need to consume another mouthful exists. All too quickly we are finished. Really, we should have known we were full but there was the possibility we were still hungry, so we opted to find out by ordering a mix okonomiyaki. This comes with pork, prawn and squid. It’s just as delicious as the first two, but it is only a few bites in when we realise in fact we are full... really full! It seems sad to leave something so delicious uneaten, so we give it our best shot. All done and ready to explode we leave, already making plans for our next visit, and thinking about what flavors and styles to try. You know it’s good when your can’t eat any more, but you’re already planning to . For more great reviews and a whole lot more about food, check out Kat and Kim’s blog @ www.bigfoodsmallworld.blogspot.com

AUSTRALIAN BOTTLESHOP PRICES

t Top quality Western Australian wine t Delivered to your Niseko accommodation next day t Pay in $AUD on your credit card t No fees, no conversions Enquire about Japan based Membership or wholesale buying

www.nisekowinesupply.com Tel: 080 6066 4321 38

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japanese cooking Okonomiyaki - as you like it! Tess Stomski from Niseko Gourmet fine dining and Sachiko from Niseko Gourmet Japanese cooking workshops share their okonomiyaki recipe. Okonomi means ‘as you like’ referring to the ingredients that are mixed with the batter to make this Japanese savoury pancake, okonomiyaki. Said to have originated in Osaka, okonomiyaki can now be found all over Japan and with its crisp outer layer and moist filling, will satisfy the taste buds of any hungry traveller. ‘Yaki’ refers to the grilling of the pancake after it has been mixed with your choice of ingredients, most commonly pork, cabbage, shrimp, squid, mushroom, kimuchee, rice cake, spring onion, tempura flakes or ‘whatever you like.’ When cooked, okonomiyaki is topped with Japanese mayonnaise, okonomiyaki sauce, bonito fish flakes, nori flakes and pickled ginger. Try making okonimiyaki and sharing it in the centre of the table as part of a casual Japanese dinner with friends.

Ingredients (serves 4 people) 1 ¾ cup flour 350ml water ½ pack (4g) sea kelp (konbu) stock powder ½ pack (2 ½g) bonito fish stock powder ¼ cabbage 1 leek 4 eggs (one per pancake) 1 tablespoon dry sea weed flakes (aonori) 2 tablespoons fried tempura balls (tenkasu) Japanese mayonnaise to taste Okonomiyaki sauce to taste Topping ideas: Mushrooms (shimeji, maitake, white button), Pickled ginger, Pork or bacon, shrimp, squid, scallops, cheese, kimchi, bonito flakes 1. To make the batter whisk the flour, stock powder and water in a mixing bowl. Mix well until all ingredients are blended together to form a smooth batter. 2. Cut cabbage and leek into bite size pieces, as well as any other toppings cut to the same size. 3. In a separate mixing bowl take 1 ladle (100ml) of batter, 1 handful of cabbage, a few pieces of leek, 1 egg, a pinch of seaweed flakes, some tempura balls, any other toppings and mix lightly. Be careful not to add too many toppings. Coat all ingredients well with batter. 4. Heat one teaspoon of vegetable oil in a fry pan on medium heat. Once hot place the mixed ingredients into the center and spread out into a 15 to 20cm circle. Cook until base is golden brown (approx. 10 minutes). Flip over and lightly flatten out the pancake with a spatula. Don’t press too hard or you will crack the pancake. 5. Once the pancake is cooked (approximately 5 to 10 minutes) you can then top the pancake with okonimiyaki sauce (similar to Worcestershire sauce but thicker and sweeter), followed by Japanese mayonnaise. Spread these sauces over the entire surface of the pancake and don’t be shy with the sauce. 6. Finally top it off with aonori and bonito flakes if you like and serve immediately. Itadakimasu!!

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Enjoy great food anytime of day in a family friendly atmosphere.

Breakfast, Lunch, Apres Ski and of course Dinner.

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Japanese for powder people by studio tdes Lesson 2: Japanese for the mountain CHANCES are, you came to Niseko for the snow – and so did the person sitting opposite you in the gondola. So, if you want attempt a conversation, talking about the snow is probably a good place to start. And since we’re guessing you’ll spend most of your holiday on the mountain, in this lesson we give you some language to use when you’re on the mountain talking about – and enjoying – the snow.

1. Ii　いい good Ii is one of many words you can use to describe the amazing run you’ve just had or the yuki (snow). Ii yuki da ne means: the snow’s good, isn’t it? Also try: saikou da ne (it’s awesome), kimochi ii (feels great!), ii condition da ne (the snow’s great today, isn’t it?), kyou sugoku ii, (it’s really good today).

2. Dou? どう? how, what You can ask questions in Japanese just by raising your voice at the end of a statement, or attaching ka. Dou is also useful. When you meet your friend at the bottom of the run, ask them: dou datta? (how was it?). If they’ve just bought new boots and are wearing them for the first time, ask: boots dou? (how are your boots?). You ordered soba for lunch and your friend is slurping down a bowl of udon – ask them how it is: dou? oishii? (is it good?)

3. Samui 寒い cold It’s winter in Niseko, of course it’s cold! Still, sometimes it’s colder than usual, especially when it’s windy and you’re sitting in a chairlift without a hood. Samui ne! (it’s cold, isn’t it?). Ne, sugoku samui (yeah, it’s really cold). Note: if you’re talking about a particular body part, you need a different word for cold: tsumetai. Tsumasaki ga tsumetai (my toes are cold.) Yubi ga tsumetai (my fingers are cold). If you’re not feeling cold, here are some other things to complain about: tsukareata (I’m tired), onaka suita (I’m hungry), harahetta (I’m hungry – boys version).

3. Matte まって wait Your friend rides off while you’re still adjusting your boots and you want them to wait. Yell: matte! (wait). Later you’re standing at the top of the mountain and they ask if you’re ready to take off: ikou ka? (shall we go?). You’re almost ready, but just need to put away your camera. Say: chotto matte (hang on a sec). When you’re ready, say: ikou! (let’s go!).

4. Doko? どこ？ where You stare at your map and up at the mountain and back at the map … and still have no idea where you are. Try taking your map to one of the mountain staff and asking: koko doko? (where are we on this map?). When they show you, say: domou arigatou gozaimasu (thank you very much). When you’re busting for the loo, ask someone: toile wa doko desu ka? (where is the toilet?). After you strike up a conversation with someone about the weather, they’ll probably ask you something like: doko kara kitano? (where are you from?).

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5. Daijoubu? OK

大丈夫？

If you come across someone lying in the snow and you’re wondering if they’re injured, ask them: daijoubu? (are you OK?) They might just be having a rest, in which case, they’ll answer: daijoubu (yeah, I’m fine). If someone asks you and you’re not OK, you can say: daijoubu janai (I’m not OK). If you need help, you can say: tasukete (help me). If you’re injured and want to get your point across in the simplest way possible, try pointing to the injured body part and saying: itai (it hurts).

6. Dame! だめ! Don’t … ! If someone skis after you yelling “dame!” – chances are you’ve done something against the rules. Dame is used for telling someone not to do something, or telling someone off. If you want to tell someone off for almost poking your eye out with their ski pole, say: abunai! (that’s dangerous!).

7. Suberu 滑る ski, snowboard Suberu means slide and is also the verb most commonly used to talk about skiing or snowboarding. Subetta? (did you go boarding/skiing today?) Subbetta yo (yes). Mada (not yet). The roads in Hirafu are very slippery, so people will warn you: suberi yasui kara kiotsukete (be careful, it’s easy to slip over).

9. Furu 降る to snow There is certainly a lot of snow in Niseko – but it doesn’t always snow 24/7, and when it starts and stops it’s always something to talk about. Yuku ga futteru (it’s snowing). Futteru? (Is it snowing?). Yannderu (it has stopped). Gangan futteru (it’s snowing hard). Futtenai (It’s not snowing). Furanai kanaa (I wish it would snow).

10. Akeome! あけおめ！ Happy New Year! If you want to be with a crowd of people on New Year’s Eve, standing on the slopes watching the giant flaming 09 is the place to be. After the countdown wish everyone a happy new year: akemashite omedetou gozaimasu! (happy new year!) If you can’t remember the whole thing, try the shortened version: akeome! Special bonus points if you can remember the full new year greeting: akemashite omedetou gozaimasu. Kotoshi mo yoroshiku onegaishimasu. Pronunciation guide: Since this magazine can’t talk, your best bet is to find a Japanese person and ask them to say the words and repeat after them. Then buy them a beer. studio tdes produces a daily online English language show, based in Kutchan: www.thedailyenglishshow.com

Need more practice? Have fun learning basic Japanese every Sunday afternoon with tdes. We’ll teach useful words and phrases for English-speaking tourists in Niseko. Day: Every Sunday Place: Samurai Bar, Niseko Yurt Village Time: 4pm to 5pm Entry: 1000 yen (includes 1 drink) More info: thedailyenglishshow.com/nisekojapanese www.powderlife.com december 26 - january 9 2009 ISSUE 11 powderlife

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Men who ride Mountains By Stirling Goldman

Hailing from the extreme terrain of Mt Baw Baw in Australia, Stirling Goldman was bred on waist-deep, man-made powder and extra steep chutes. Stirling has conquered the most beastly mountains across the world, and recently moved to Niseko. Stirling soon sensed that both local and international punters needed to be taught a thing or two and luckily for us, has decided to settle here for good. Stirling Goldman: a man who rides mountains.

SO, recently I have been approached by many people wondering how to deal with the ‘credit crunch’ and global financial crisis. I must admit it is somewhat painful being approached by punters at the best of times. But it’s even more painful when they are looking for financial advice. Being sidled up to by a pin-stripe suit-wearing investment banker drowning his sorrows at 2am, asking the Stirls how he does what he does, is almost enough to cause me to get on the phone to my old mate Barack and give him my pearls for how to sort this mess out. A few seasons ago these were the kind of people trying to bribe their way into VIP status next to Stirls at the bar. It was a common scenario and bored me to tears. Loud-mouth Stirls wannabes bragging about their latest big deal, highflying job, flashy houses and how good they were at skiing. It was laughable for the Stirls. As always, though, the joke was on them; for it meant a steady supply of free beers for me all night, and their ‘golddigging’, or should I say ‘Goldman-digging’ wives, in my ear trying to get a piece of a real man. Fortunately for the wannabes, I don’t roll with married women. So how do you deal with the credit crunch? You see, Stirling does what he does because he has to. I cannot choose not to go on a skiing trip, or not to roll in Niseko just because the yen is strong. Imagine all the broken hearts and disappointed fans. It just wouldn’t be fair. Also, if Stirls doesn’t ski, Stirls may as well not exist. For Stirls the rent, food and clothing come second to lift tickets and chalets. Of course I haven’t paid for either since I was three years old, but I would if I had to. I ski therefore I am Stirls. Get it, you muppet? Stirling doesn’t do or need a suit. The last time I wore one was for the Armani shoot I did back in the ’89-‘90 season. The suit has sure aged, but I have not.

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and divorced by then, but there will still be snow in Niseko, Stirls will still look good and your partners will still have a crush on me.

Q: Stirling, how do you keep your finances in check during these times? Patrick, Sydney. A: Patty my boy, people often look at Goldman and think he is just a ski bum – you know, a larrikin who just looks for good times. Then these same people What people do not understand is that from a hear about my chalet in Chamonix; my 22 bedroom skiing perspective, the global markets slide means a palace in the Caribbean; my Sydney Harbour win-win for Stirls. There are less people on the hill waterfront with private yacht mooring; my and more room for me to do what I do best – at least apartments in London, New York and Paris; my what I do best during the day. And as for what I do Ferrari, Bentley and Porsche; my dominance with the best at night – well, let’s just say I have to just change ladies…and all of a sudden want to be my friend. my focus. Sure there are fewer ladies about but there Patrick, Goldman is not stupid. He is financially are always the seasonal workers and Niseko regulars secure. For with a face and body of the gods, and who reap the rewards of the great man to seek some ability to ski like he does, he is a sponsor’s dream. solace in these tough economic times. So it is a winAnd with this come decent dollars and a steady win for them, too, which is good as it is nice to ‘give’ stream of royalties that means the good times keep something back to the resort and to skiing in general. on coming. If you want the truth, I think I come in third on the rich list of Australian athletes behind I remember the ‘90s recession back in Australia. Greg and Harry (Norman and Kewell). Of course, for Baw Baw management were worried the profit an international man of the winter as I am, most of margins would be grim. Naturally, they looked to my money is redirected via my residence in Monaco. Stirling to save the day. Now, let me set the record Cha Ching! What was that, the sound of cash register straight, Stirling never sells out, yet this was the opening? Stirls thinks so. closest I have come. For it was Baw Baw and they needed me. So I did a shoot at the Baw Baw peak. All Q: Stirling, rumour has it you are now on I will say is that there were some strategically placed Facebook? Is this true? Can I be your friend? 210cm ultra thin skis and Stirls in the raw. The Jenny, Tokyo. photographers wanted to use a shorter ski so the A: Well, Jenny, those rumours are true. However, I punters could relate, but in those days I used to ski on must say there is a fairly strict criteria become a 300s and the photo had to be family friendly; any friend. For to be a friend of Stirls, you need to do shorter would run the risk of the women keeping the what he does on a regular basis. It goes as follows: poster for themselves under their beds. As a favour I * Females – profile picture dependent. dropped my appearance fee and just charged for the * Males – a somewhat more difficult task. If you can one hour of work. $30K was still a big risk for them, consume 40 beers, ski down from the peak on one ski but it paid off. Baw Baw numbers soared, profits were backwards, then go down to Kutchan and ride the ski through the roof, and Stirls became tired of being told jump on a snow board and land with your hands as how good he was. Some things never change. opposed to feet strapped in…you MAY be considered. So, I ask you to try your luck and look me up – the So bankers, don’t sweat it regarding the financial name’s Stirling Goldman. You know you want to. situation. The beauty of the markets is that they are cyclical and you will have a job and share portfolio Wanna see if Stirling will accept you as a friend? again. It may take five years and you may be broke Look him up on Facebook. Or got a question for a man who knows? Fire it to [email protected].

powderlife ISSUE 11 december 26 - january 9 2009 www.powderlife.com

kutchan k-town WHILE Niseko becomes a thriving modern international ski resort in winter, just a 10-minute bus ride away is an authentic little rural Japanese town, Kutchan - affectionately known by foreigners as K-town. It’s the closest ‘big’ town to Niseko with a population of about 15,000 people. Kutchan is the service town for surrounding rural villages in the region, including Niseko, but in years gone by it has been quite a thriving little entertainment district on the back of past ski booms in Niseko. Kutchan’s nightlife these days is pretty tame compared to what most foreigner visitors would be used to, but therein lies its charm. For the younger crowd at least one night exploring the back alleys of Kutchan for a quirky little bar or karaoke joint is a must - it could well be one of the best experiences of your trip. For those not after a party, there are countless - possibly a hundred or more - unique little restaurants to choose from. For ideas about where to head check out www.powderlife.com/magazine/kutchan

Kutchan Night-Go Bus ¥100 for an unlimited pass

Kutchan Karaoke? Okey Dokey! By Bevan Colless

THERE is a ‘must do’ list when visiting many countries, and Japan is no different. Take a hot spring bath – check; take a bullet train – check; eat lots of Japanese food – check; sing karaoke with a group of friends - check. Niseko has its own fantastic hub of great karaoke bars and booths in Kutchan, the funky little traditional Japanese town located just a 10-minute bus ride from Hirafu village. The western take on karaoke has been to perform in front of the whole bar, but traditional Japanese style is in a ‘booth’ or ‘box’, with just your friends as an audience. Both are available in Kutchan, so if you’re a bit shy, you don’t need to get up in front of strangers. However, it’s often the ones who start out shy that end up being the hardest to pry from the microphone – especially after a few jars of liquid courage. No one knows Kutchan like long-time resident and owner of Café Kaku, Shukin. So, here are some picks for the best karaoke bars in ‘the Kooch’, according to the ‘Monk with Spunk’…

1. Nozomi II 8:00am ~ 8:00pm [closed on tuesdays] ph: 0136-22-0050

This is a bar-style karaoke and is great fun and great value. You can choose from ¥2,000 all you can drink for two hours, or ¥3,000 all you can drink until they close, which is often as late as 7am. Nozomi II have the most English songs in their system. They open at 9pm, but can open earlier on request. They’ll even pick you up and take you home for free if you give Eiji a call 090 6263 2328.

2. Songoku A private booth-style karaoke in the Wakayama building right across Miyako dori fom Be and World Sports Bar. Use of the karaoke room is ¥600 per hour for one person. They are open from 8pm to 2am, and have an all you can drink for ¥1,000 and hour for spirits, or ¥1,200 if you want beer included. They do have costumes you can borrow if you feel like dressing up.

3. Mikan-sei Another booth-style karaoke above Wai Wai Okonomiyaki. Look for the red sign just a around the corner, a few doors down from Café Kaku on Miyako Dori. Mikan-sei is very popular with high school students for its afternoon special. They have two small rooms and one large room. Between 4pm and 8pm the small rooms are ¥500 per hour and the large room is ¥1,000. After 8pm, the two rooms are ¥2,000, and the one larger room is ¥3,000. Drinks are extra but very reasonable.

4. Do Re Mi Once again, it’s karaoke booth-style, this time located above the Ramen bar in the Max Value car park. For hourly use of the booth for one person it costs ¥735, for two people ¥735, and three to five people it’s ¥1,000. Drinks are extra.

5. Snack Bars All ‘snack bars’ have karaoke. ‘Snack bars’ are a style of hostess bar that charge a small entry fee, (usually ¥500), and this includes a small snack. They usually have a ‘bottle keep’ system, so you can pour your own drinks from your bottle. You have the option of having a lady sit with you, for which you pay an extra fee or you can buy them drinks. Karaoke is usually about ¥200 per song. Hiroko Snack, next to Blue Cielo, just around the corner from the Loaf Lounge, has a stage that you can get up on to do your thing. 46

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real estate news By Lorne Calhoun

Niseko Village announces major new development plans NISEKO Village, operators of hotels, ski, golf and summer activity facilities in the Higashiyama area, have announced plans for a new large scale, very up market resort development on land adjoining their current operations. In addition to commercial and leisure facilities, they are proposing to build a total of over 1,000 condominium apartments and free standing villas. Construction is planned to continue over a period of more than 10 years, with the first stage hopefully commencing by Autumn of 2009. The development will take place on about 50 ha of vacant land to the south east of the current resort property, directly connecting with it. The plans released are proposing restaurants and a village shopping promenade similar to those of the great mountain resorts throughout the world, as well as approximately 800 condominium apartments and 182 town houses in low to medium rise configuration, and some 40 villas. This is in addition to a multipurpose centre for staging events of various kinds, and other leisure facilities such as a skating rink and

an onsen (hot spring). The resort appears primarily aimed at attracting a domestic Japanese clientele, particularly the free-spending recently retired ‘silver’ market. Other plans include the development of a new ski area especially catering for beginners over the next two to three years. This will appeal to the growing Asian market, which has very little ski experience. Included in these plans are three new high-speed lifts, the first in Hokkaido to incorporate chairs for six skiers (the widest currently being quad lifts), and reconstruction of one existing Niseko Village lift, the Wonderland Chair. General manager Luke Hurford says planning for the new development is well under way, and should begin to take shape in three to four years’ time. “Our goal is to create an international resort, retaining and enhancing the charming and priceless elements of the Niseko, Hokkaido and Japanese culture as well as providing the activities, dining and entertainment and lifestyle elements which are the benchmark of any great international mountain resort,” he says.

New Niseko real estate companies SEVERAL new real estate companies have been formed in Niseko in over the past year. Kicking off the new arrivals is Tracks Real Estate, whose sister companies Hokkaido Tracks Development and Hokkaido Tracks Management were local pioneers in their fields. While this is TRE’s first season, sales manager Grant Mitchell said it already had a healthy stock of more than forty properties. “Worldwide, few ski resorts can rival Niseko, and even fewer have the quality of Hirafu’s real estate,” says Mitchell. TRE’s listings range from luxurious penthouses to more modest apartments and feature a selection of houses in fashionable Middle Hirafu. Makoto Begley and Michael Davenport will be joint operators of North Star Projects. Their main focus will be on design and construction, working with Makoto’s construction experience in Niigata and Niseko, and Davenport’s experience working for a development company and overseeing several construction projects in Niseko. “We are both bilingual, have good

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connections in the area and it made sense to work together,” says Davenport. “We’ll work on smaller jobs (renovations, extensions) through to much larger jobs (new houses, apartments) and take clients from inception to completion. We’ve been working together for about a year already but we’ve decided to formalize things in this new venture.” Jason McGregor has just started his own company, JBuild Niseko. McGregor is a licensed Australian builder who has been working in construction in Japan for the past 18 years. In that time he was hands on for over 250 various projects. He discovered Niseko five years ago and settled here in early 2007. An ex project manager with Hokkaido Tracks, McGregor decided he would venture out on his own and offer his construction services which include renovations, management of construction projects, pre-purchase inspections and general consulting.

powderlife ISSUE 11 december 26 - january 9 2009 www.powderlife.com

real estate feature

Q&A with

Eyal Agmoni Interview by Lorne Calhoun Earlier this month Moria mountain holding GK purchased the Moiwa ski resort. Powderlife Magazine caught up with the fund representative Mr. Eyal Agmoni to find out a bit more about their company and their plans for the future of Moiwa.

Photo: Niseko Photography

Niseko Village. Photo: Niseko Photography

LJ Hooker moves into Niseko AUSTRALIAN real estate giant LJ Hooker will be opening a Niseko branch soon, the first branch in Japan. The office will be located in the Downtown Café building at the end of the main drag on the second floor. Rob Holmes will be at the helm as head of sales. “We believe that despite the recent economic downturn there is still huge potential for development and sales in Niseko,” says Holmes. “This and the fact that we have in-depth local knowledge and a combined experience in Hokkaido of over 40 years puts us in an excellent position to provide a vibrant, beneficial service to both vendor and purchaser.” L.J. Hooker is looking to open 35 franchises in Hokkaido and a total of 70 throughout Japan over the next three years. LJ Hooker has a nationwide presence in Australia as well as franchises in 13 countries including China, India Papua New Guinea and the United Arab Emirates. It has 800 franchises in total.

Tell me a about Moria mountain holding GK?

What differences will we see in Moiwa this season?

What are some of your long term goals for the resort?

Moria mountain holding is a Japanese company based in Tokyo created solely for the purpose of holding the Moiwa ski resort. It is part of a group of companies owned by a private equity fund. I am the representative in Japan for the fund.

This season won’t see great changes. We just took over the resort in the first week of December. Our first mission was to make sure the lifts opened on time for the season, but there are many ideas that people are talking to us about that we are looking forward to. In General we wish Moiwa to be the natural choice for kids and families as well as beginner skiers to choose, we will work towards that goal but with room to allow more advance skiers to enjoy our slops.

We are very lucky to have Riccardo Tossani of Riccardo Tossani Architecture to develop a masterplan for us. One of the key points is that Moiwa is very attractive in the summer which is why Kanronomori is full all of the time; it has both seasons attraction, so the idea is to develop here a high class, top notch resort with maybe a famous operator who will help us to maintain it. The idea is definitely to grow the whole area to a world class resort.

What are you planning as your target market for the resort?

The Moiwa towers were not part of you purchase. How do you think the towers and Kanronomori will play into future of the resort?

I understand that you will be trying to link Moiwa with the Niseko United. What steps have already been taken to make this happen?

Moiwa being the most traditionally famous resort as it is the oldest place in the region we would really like to target a lot of Japanese. At the same time we would also like to see more foreigners come to this very cozy and nice part of the mountain, which right now is untapped because of many difficulties with the previous owners. We would like to be more integrated into the mountain and the other operators to try and get more people exposed to this side of the mountain.

Kanronomori is a vital part of the future. From our understanding there has some bad air with the previous players. We want to bring them in and we would like to hopefully connect. Regarding the towers we are not sure, they are still in the bankruptcy court so there are some issues there. However, we definitely would like to develop the existing facilities which of course include everything that is already there.

Right now we are doing what is called an Isatsu visit, just exchanging name cards. We know that there have been attempts in the past for previous owners to connect; we hope that this time we will be lucky enough to join the pack. We met with Niseko town council today and clearly stated that we want to see Niseko growing. We hope that with their help and others; there have been many good people here to help us put everything together. We hope we will be able to achieve our goal which is to connect with the Niseko united, or/and other resorts.

Is this the first ski resort your company has taken on? Absolutely.

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real estate views

Hirafu Village. Photo: Niseko Photography

I stand ‘corrected’ By Graeme Glen, sales manager for West Canada Properties LAST year, in answer to the question, ‘is Niseko a bubble?’, I stated that Niseko was not a bubble, nor could it become a bubble due to the fact that growth has been fueled by private investment and not leveraged. Private money, generally, does not go where there is no possibility of a return. Thus, balance is maintained. This has held true despite the recent battering of the world economy. However, we find that investors are playing it safe and as a result Niseko is now entering a period of correction. A ‘period of correction’, for the uninitiated, does not involve wearing a dunce cap and standing in the corner of the classroom, nor does it require a gimp suit and a spell on a throne of humiliation. What it does require to deal with a market correction is patience, long-term vision and a deep understanding that essentially nothing has really changed in Niseko. Periods of correction are nothing new to ski resorts. The poster child for ski resort development, Whistler, in Canada’s British Columbia, has endured no less than five since 1978 and is still going strong as ever. From 1978 to 2007, the average price for plots and chalets went from US$150,000 up to US$1,600,000. Keep in mind that this has happened over 30 years, and Niseko is only in its fifth year of growth. So, even if you buy in today you are still getting in very close to the bottom. How does all this affect investors? If you are a short-term market player out for a quick profit, you should have gotten out last year; if you didn’t you’ll have to hold on till the markets recover confidence. But for the long-term player, the people with vision and a deep love for the area, the longer term rewards will still be sweet. In fact, world economic chaos aside, things are getting better in Niseko. The basic element of Niseko’s initial success has not disappeared. Snow. As sure as the sun will rise tomorrow, the snow will fall in Niseko. This provides an unbeatable destination for skiers for which there will always be a market. More and more services are opening, giving the tourists more options. The quality of these services are becoming more and more sophisticated to match the needs of the more sophisticated Asian customers we find coming here. Exchange rates have reduced the numbers of Australian visitors, but the good news is they are being replaced. Visitors from Hong Kong are up 42 per cent, and Singapore and Thailand by 10 per cent. Many of the Australians who are being priced out of the market by the exchange rates are looking to capitalise on exchange rates by selling their Japan assets. This offers tremendous bargains to the Asian market. So, above all else, enjoy your stay, enjoy the snow and all that Niseko has to offer.

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on the market

By Matthew Thomas

North Field Lodge A LUXURY lodge in Hirafu’s East Village is giving investors the chance to buy a slice of Niseko’s world-famous winter playground – but at a fraction of the usual cost. North Field Lodge – located a snowball’s throw away from Hirafu’s ski lifts, shops, bars and restaurants, in Izuimkyo 2 – utilises the sharing concept of fractional ownership, something its creators say is novel for the Niseko region. Shared ownership allows the investor to enjoy the benefits of owning a freehold Niseko property for much less than the normal cost of buying a free-standing house or apartment. Most Hirafu houses and apartments FAIR SHARE ... Rob range in price between ¥40 million Buffier outside North (around US $433,000) and ¥120 Field Lodge. million (around US $1.3 million). With the fractional ownership concept, offered by Japan Powder Lodges, the buyer can own a share of North Field Lodge for an average price of ¥2.1 million (around US $23,000). The most affordable portion of the lodge is priced at around ¥1.5 million (around US $16,200). “I guess when a lot of people come here they think it would be fantastic to own a property, but the problem is that is not always affordable for some,” says Tim Kennedy, managing director of North Field Lodge, with fellow director and business partner, Rob Buffier. “This is making that sometimes expensive lifestyle accessible for people that otherwise would not have been able to afford it. A lot of people are balking at US $330,000 for a property that they will only use for a few weeks of the year, so we are giving people the opportunity to get a foothold into the Niseko property market for a much smaller amount of money.” Fractional ownership is a concept that began in North America’s Rocky Mountains in the early ‘90s, and has since spread world-wide. But this is not to be confused with time share, says Tim. “Fractional ownership is different to time share, because with fractional ownership, each investor actually owns a valuable legal share in the freehold property,” he says. “In the case of a traditional time share, owners usually only share part of a leasehold, but don’t own the actual property, so as the time share elapses, the lease becomes less valuable. In our case, each investor effectively owns a part of the title to the North Field freehold property.” Buyers will be able to use the lodge rent-free for a variety of time periods – 11, 44 or 88-night stays. “Our ownership system allows you to match the percentage of your legal ownership with the amount of time that you plan to spend skiing in Japan each season,” says Tim. While North Field lodge isn’t marketed purely for its investment potential – rather as a lifestyle choice – Tim says that if owners choose to rent out their share, it may still return around 5 per cent per annum. “We are also looking at operating during the summer, with any income generated put back in a pool for investors to use as secondary income,” says Tim. As part of the ownership package, each investor gets access to all a selected two-to-four-share bedroom and access to all the lodge the lodge facilities. For each investor, North Field Lodge - with a 25-bed licence – boasts nine shared western-style bedrooms, seven of which have en suites, and all have Finnish saunas. Each room also has exclusive use of a fridge, flat-screen satellite television, wardrobe, room heater, LAP OF LUXURY ... comfort premium bedding and towels. Other and style at this Hirafu amenities featured are two saunas, lodge. two Japanese reticulated onsen-style baths, a lounge with wood-burner fire, a café and restaurant with its own chef, high-speed fibre optic wireless internet access, washing machines and dryers. Also included is access to all lodge facilities, such as a mini-bus for morning first tracks, and evening meals and excursions. These facilities are made all the sweeter with views of Mt Yotei and Hirafu so there’s no mistaking where you are. 52

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on the market listings The Berg Apartments ¥120 million 795 m2 (240 tsubos) The Berg Apartments are located on a quiet street in the heart of the upper village above Seicomart, within easy walking distance to Niseko’s best restaurants, bars, and the Ace family lift. It has great views of Mt Yotei and the ski hill. The astute investor can redevelop, renovate or landbank this strategically located block of three, two-level apartments. Each apartment has a loft bedroom that sleeps four people, one bathroom, separate toilet and an open plan, lounge, dining/kitchen area. The apartments are rented year round and provide a steady annual income stream. As a redevelopment site, the gradient allows for up to seven levels to the maximum height, where as other flat sites will only be approved for six levels.It is also possible to purchase The Sakura House next door, to increase the strategic value of your investment. The Berg apartments are priced at 500 000 yen per tsubo, and at this price they will sell . Hirafu Upper Village 150mts to lift Contact Ruskin McLennan from Niseko Property for more information [email protected] mobile:0806 098 7882

Ekimne Estate Properties From ¥55 million Beautifully constructed homes in the new Ekimne estate in the Hirafu lower village. Tranquility is assured in this unrivalled location, with easy access to the village proper, but without the crush. With generous plot sizes and treed outlooks, these properties offer great value to the discerning buyer. This part of town doesn’t have to come with a million dollar price tag! Coming together with fantastic rental packages, buy now and secure the winter returns for yourself. Contact: Derek Kennewell Phone: +81 (0)90 2818 7408 Email: [email protected] Ridgerunner Real Estate

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phone directory Hotels Hotel J-First Niseko ホテルＪファーストニセコ 22 2350 [MAP E1]

Dragon Wine and Food Bar ドラゴン　ワイン＆バー 21 7700 [MAP B2]

Hotel Niseko Alpen ホテルニセコアルペン 22 1105 [MAP D1] Hotel Niseko Scot ホテルニセコスコット 23 2311 [MAP E1] Niseko Kogen Hotel ニセコ高原ホテル 22 0117 [MAP E1]

EN in-house fine dining 宴　インハウス　ファイン　ダイニング 55 8100 [MAP D3] Relax while our in-house chef does all the work. Your fine dining solutions.“

Raku Izakaya 楽　居酒屋 22 6638 [MAP C3]

Kamimura カミムラ 21 2288 [MAP D2] Just 300m ski or bus from the Hilton Niseko Villlage. Check out or great Western and Japanese menu. Kila 姫羅 070 6646 4715 [MAP C2]

Niseko Park Hotel ニセコパークホテル 22 2122 [MAP C2]

Fujizushi Sushi ふじ鮨 23 2661 [MAP B3]

Komekichi Onigiri Café 米吉（おにぎりかふぇ） 22 1105 [MAP F1]

Niseko Prince Hotel Hirafu-tei ニセコプリンスホテルひらふ亭 23 2239 [MAP C1]

Gentem Café 玄天カフェ 23 3154 [MAP B1]

Kumagoro くまごろう 23 3381 [MAP B3]

Yamada Onsen Hotel 山田温泉ホテル 22 0476 [MAP E1]

Grandpapa グランパパ 0136 23 2244 [MAP B3]

Loaf Lounge ローフラウンジ 22 1022 [Kutchan]

Restaurants, cafes and eateries

Graubunden グラウビュンデン 23 3371 [MAP E4]

A-Bu-Cha 阿武茶 22 5620 [MAP C2] B’s Café and Bar ビーズ　カフェ＆バー 22 1480 [MAP D1]

Bang Bang バンバン 22 4292 [MAP C1] Owner Masai Saito chooses the best ingredients in Japan. One of Hirafu’s most popular izakayas. Barunba バルンバ 090 8907 9399 [MAP B2] Menu Selections Salmon pizza 1300 VenisonHamburg1250 Pasta 1000~ Buffalo wings 600 Black Diamond Lodge Restaurant ブラックダイモンドロッジレストラン 0136 44 1144 [Higashiyama] Just 300m ski or bus from the Hilton Niseko Villlage. Check out or great Western and Japanese menu. Blo Blo Bar ブロー　ブロー　バー 22-12-69 [MAP D1] Bouken Kazoku 冒険家族 22 3759 Chidori 千鳥 23 2831 [MAP F4] Curry Goya カレー小屋 23 3688 [MAP F4] Downtown ダウンタウン 23 3354 [MAP B3]

Hana Jizoh Bakery 花地蔵 23 0331 [MAP F4] Amazing sweet and savoury breads and pastries. Must try! Get the free village shuttle to bus stop G.

Rin Izakaya りん　居酒屋 22 1444 [MAP B3] Senchou 1 Izakaya 船長（居酒屋） 22 2001 [MAP B3] Senchou 2 Seafood Izakaya 海山屋　（海鮮居酒屋） 22 5454 [MAP C2]

Rosso Rosso ロッソロッソ 21 7100 [MAP B3] Casual steak house with a contemporary flavour. Juicy, tender wagyu and Kobe beef, variety of imported wines. Specialities Buta don ¥850 Tempura Set ¥1500 Sashimi ¥1500

Maru まる 22 5020 [MAP E3] Traditional Japanese ‘donburi’ restaurant. 11:30am-2pm/5-11pm. Pick up available. Reservation required Mina Mina ミナミナ 23 4471 [MAP D2]

Shokusai Hirafu 食彩　比羅夫 22 1105 [MAP C1] Shunsai 旬彩 23 1882 [Kutchan] Slalom スラローム 22 1105 [MAP C1] Spur Chinese Restaurant シュプール（中華レストラン） 22 1105 [MAP C1] Tsubara Tsubara つばらつばら 23 1116 [MAP E4]

Hirafu Fleur 創作料理ヒラフール 23 3306 [MAP E1]

Mokoraya もこらや 090 8279 0598 [MAP F3]

Ichimura Soba 蕎麦屋　いちむら 23 0603 [MAP F3]

Mozart モーツァルト 090 2699 6387 [MAP E4]

if… Café カフェ　イフ 22 4770 [MAP B3]

Nami Chan Chi 波ちゃん家 21 2258 [Kutchan]

Jam Café Bar ジャム（カフェバー） 23 0700 [MAP D2]

Nathan’s Hotdogs ネイサンズ　ホットドッグ 21 3121 [MAP E3]

Japanese Kitchen Bouken 冒険家族 22 3759

Niseko Gourmet ニセコ　ゴメイ 080 5584 1313

Yawaraya やわらや 23 3810 [MAP C3]

Java Bar and Café ジャバ　バー＆カフェ 090 2871 6781 [MAP D3]

Niseko Pizza ニセコ　ピザ 21 6888 [MAP D2]

Youtei Yakiniku 焼肉ようてい 22 0109 [MAP E1]

Paddy McGintys パディーマッギンティーズ 55 8020 [MAP C2]

Yuki Bar and Café 雪場カフェ 22 0234 [MAP D2]

JoJo’s Café and Bar ジョジョズ（カフェ＆バー） 23 2093 [MAP E3] A 13 cm Original Burger, potato gnocchi and fries from local potatoes. Generous portions of food Jyuu Okonomiyaki じゅう 44 2336 [Higashiyama]

WIld Bill’s ワイルドビルズ 22 5652 [MAP D2] Come for dinner, stay for drinks. Hirafu’s most popular bar and Tex-Mex cuisine restaurant. See you there!

Yummy’s ヤミーズ 21 2239 [MAP C3]

Paul’s Cafe Niseko ポールズカフェー 090 9524 4968 [MAP C3] Specialising in Belgian beer and rotisserie chicken. More than 30 beers on tap or in bottles. Belgian Waffles.

Kakashi かかし 23 2622 [MAP D2]

Payoka パヨカ 22 0117 [MAP E1]

Kame 亀 22 0339 [MAP E3]

Piccolo House ピッコロハウス（カフェ＆バー） 23 0311 [MAP E2]

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phone directory Bars

Local information

Tours, activities

Après Bar アプレバー 23 2311 [MAP E1]

Niseko Rusutsu Sapporo Hokkaido Backcountry Black Diamond Tours

Bar Lair バー・レイアー 22 0588 [MAP D1] Barunba バルンバ 090 8907 9399 [MAP C3] Be. ビー 556 905

Black Diamond Tours ブラック　ダイアモンド　ツアー 090-2054-8687 Let us privately guide you through Hokkaido’s best powder stashes and out of the way places.

Blo Blo Bar ブロブロ・バー 22 1269 [MAP D1]

Deep Powder Tours ディープ　パウダー　ツアー 0136 21 5827 [MAP D2]

Dragon Wine and Food Bar ドラゴン　ワイン＆フードバー 21 7700 [MAP B2]

Good Sports グッドスポーツ 23 4560 [MAP C1]

Fridge Door Bar (Gyu +) ギュウタスバー 23 1432 [MAP B3]

Fuga Pottery Factory 陶工房風雅 22 1731

Full Note フルノート 232 727 [MAP C3]

IXSM Travel イクシム　トラベル 21 5855 [MAP D4]

Masukotto マスコット 23 1101 [MAP C2] Paddy McGintys パディーマッギンティーズ 55 8020 [MAP C2]

Wild Bill’s ワイルドビルズ 22 5652 [MAP D2] Yuki Bar and Café 雪場カフェ 22 0234 [MAP B2]

NAC Niseko Adventure Centre NACニセコ　アドベンチャーセンター 23 2093 [MAP E3] Lessons and winter mountain tours, year round activities, indoor climbing wall, shop, and café.

Call for an appointment or just drop in. info@ nisekomassage.com Niseko Massage ニセコマサージ 22 0399 [MAP B2] Professional Sports and Relaxation Massage in Five Star Luxury. Highly qualified massage therapists

Call for an appointment or just drop in. Ph. 0136 22 0399

Ski schools NAC Niseko Adventure Centre ＮＡＣ　アドベンチャー　センター 23 2093 [MAP E3] Niseko Hirafu Ski and Snowboard School ニセコヒラフスキーアンドスノーボードスール 22 0921 [MAP D1] NISS Niseko International Snowsports School ニス-ニセコインタナショナルスノースポーツスクール 21 6688 [MAP F1] NBS Niseko Base Sports NBS　ニセコ　ベース　スポーツ 21 5050 [MAP B2] Niseko Sessions ニセコ　セッション 080 6070 2780 [MAP B2] SAS Scott Adventure Sports SAS スコットアドベンチャー　スポーツ 21 3333 [MAP B2]

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Sun Sports Land サン　スポーツ　ランド 23 3220 [MAP A3]

West Canada Homes ウエストカナダホームズ 21 2226 [MAP E2]

Accommodation providers

Rental short / long term leasing export / import/moving assistance 7 pass 4wd from 45,000yen/wk Niseko Auto Rentals and Sales ニセコオートセールズアンドレンタル 090-2055-6074 [Higashiyama] Niseko Auto can assist you with local sales and export. Licensed auction dealer - 4WD and sports vehicles. Demo デモ 21 66 77 [MAP C2]

Grand Hirafu Ski Hire グランドヒラフスキハイヤー 0136 22 0109 [MAP D1]

Splash スプラッシュ 23 1688 [MAP C3] The Brick ブリック 22 3444 [MAP D3]

Tracks Real Estate トラックスリアルエステート 226 977 [MAP E2]

NBS Niseko Base Sports ＮＢＳ　ニセコ　ベース　スポーツ 21 5050 [MAP B2]

Jam Café Bar ジャム 23 0700 [MAP D2] Java Bar and Café ジャババー＆カフェ 090 2871 6781 [MAP D3]

SAS Scott Adventure Sports SASスコットアドベンチャースポーツ 21 3333 [MAP B2]

Niseko Physio ニセコフィジオ 22 0399 [MAP B2] Your English speaking sports injury centre in Hirafu. Australian trained winter sports physiotherapists. Niseko Pottery Club ニセコ陶芸クラブ 23 4844 [MAP A3] Niseko Snowmobile Adventures ニセコスノーモービルアドベンチャー 21 5001 NOASC ノアスク 23 1688 [MAP C3] Paint Ball Field Niseko ペイントボールフィールドニセコ 23 2111 [MAP E4]

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Niseko Powder Boards ニセコパウダーボード 0901 384 5772 [MAP D3] Niseko 343 ニセコ３４３ 23 0343 [MAP C3] Rhythm & Beats リズム＆ビート 22-0165 [MAP E2] SAS Scott Adventure Sports SASスコットアドベンチャースポーツ 21 3333 [MAP B2] Sports Rent Ciao スポーツ　レンタル　チャオ 22 5178 [MAP F2]

Real estate

The Australian snowsports club with its own Niseko lodge Australian Alpine Club Niseko オーストラリアンアルパインクラブニセコ 223 006 [MAP E4] The lodge has eight western style guest rooms Membership is available for A$6,500 www.aacniseko.com Deep powder tours ディープパウダーツアーズ 21 5827 [MAP D2] Hokkaido Tracks 北海道トラックス 23 3503 [MAP C2] Hokkaido Travel 北海道トラベル 233 327 [MAP C2] Holiday Niseko ホリデー　ニセコ 21 6221 [MAP A3] Izumikyo 泉卿 23 3301 [MAP D4] NISADE ニセード 22 0038 [MAP C2] Niseko Ground Service ニセコグランドサービス 21 2503 [MAP C2] Niseko Management Service ニセコマネジメントサービス 21 5020 [MAP D3]

AIRPORT New Chitose Airport 0123 23 0111 www.new-chitose-airport.jp/language/english New Chitose was opened in 1991 and became Japan’s first 24-hour airport in 1994. It services Sapporo and Niseko with direct international flights from various Asian cities and Australia. The Tokyo to Chitose route is the busiest domestic route in the world. It is the largest airport in Japan by land mass. Getting From New Chitose To Niseko On arrival at Chitose international airport, visitors not on a full travel package have a few options to complete this last leg of their journey to Niseko and back. Although the trip is only 110kms, due to icy roads and no direct train route, it takes two to three hours.

BUS The bus is the most convenient and commonly used form of transport from the airport. Buses depart about every 30 minutes from the airport to Niseko. They take about three hours, including a rest stop halfway and a dropoff at Rusutsu. ¥2,300 - one way and ¥3,850 for a round trip. The buses disembark at six designated bus stops within the greater Niseko United Resort.  You will find two different points to get off at each of the main ski areas.  Whiteliner Buses www.whitelinerbuses.com.........011-242-2040 Chuo Buses www.chuo-bus.co.jp/kikan/ski...011-231-0500 Donan buses www.donanbus.co.jp/ski............0123-46-5701 Hokkaido Resort Liner www.access-n.jp/ski_info.html..011-219-4411

CAR RENTAL

a private company bus which costs ¥500 and a free shuttle bus which is included in your all mountain pass. See the timetable on the course map for more information. If you have a 12-point ticket, one point per trip is needed. Others need ¥500 for adult and ¥300 for child per ride. Kutchan Night Bus A free bus runs from Grand Hirafu ski area to Kutchan station every night. Step out from Hirafu village and enjoy shopping, eating, and drinking in Kutchan. Taxis Kutchan hire...............................0136 22 1212 Misora hire.................................0136 22 1171 Niseko hire.................................0136 44 2635

AIRLINES ANA.............................................0120 029 222 British Airways............................03 3570 8657 Cathay Pacific.............................03 5159 1700 China Airlines.............................03 5520 0333 JAL...............................................0120 255 971 Korean Air...................................0088 21 2001 Qantas.........................................0120 207 020 Singapore Airlines......................03 3213 1174 Thai Airways...............................03 3503 3311 United Airlines............................0120 114 466

BANKING Yes, we all know Hirafu needs an international ATM! Until then, use the post office in Kutchan open 8.45am to 7pm on weekdays, 9am to 5pm on weekends and holidays. You can also withdraw from the 24-hour Citibank ATM at 3F Chitose airport and the 7-Eleven near Kutchan station. Most of the cards with Cirrus and PLUS marks are accepted at these places, but round cornered cards are not.

CREDIT CARDS Japan is still a predominantly cash society. Most small bars and restaurants in Niseko do not accept credit cards, but larger hotels, restaurants and hotels often do. American Express.......................0120 020 120 MasterCard..................................03 5728 5200

If you are comfortable driving in the snow, renting can be convenient as it allows you to take a trip to Kutchan to stock up the fridge before returning the car. One way hire from Chitose to Hirafu is about ¥7,000 for six - 24 hours. Nippon Rentacar, Mazda and Orix have Visa Card...................................00531 44 0022 offices in the Niseko area. If you want a car CURRENCY only in Niseko, you can contact Black DiaYou can exchange your money into Yen at the mond Lodge in Higashiyama. bank, post office, and most inbound travel Mazda Rent a Car : Chitose airport 0123-45- operators. Please bring your passport - it 8756, Niseko 011-231-0118 (drop off and pick may be more convenient to change with your hotel. You can also exchange USD travellers up in Niseko only available on weekdays) Nippon Rent a Car : Chitose airport 0123-26- cheques at banks or at Kutchan post office.

Niseko RDC ニセコ　ＲＤＣ 23 4844 [MAP B2]

0919, Niseko 0136-43-2929 DRIVING  Orix Rent a Car : Chitose airport  0123-22- When driving on icy roads the number one 0543, Izumikyo (Hirafu)  0134-25-0543,  Black thing to remember is to drive slowly. Make Diamond Lodge : 0136-44-1144 sure the windscreen and back and side windows are thoroughly de-iced on the outside TAXI A standard taxi from Chitose to Hirafu will and de-steamed on the inside before setting cost about ¥30,000. Prai Taxi charges 20,000 off – don’t simply clear a ‘porthole’ to look for a small taxi (3-4 people) or ¥33,000 for a through. Maintain at least a five-second gap jumbo (8-10 people). Call 011 207 5166 or between you and the vehicle in front. Use a high gear to avoid wheel spin, but take care www.prai.co.jp. not to let your speed creep up. Brake gently to TRAIN avoid locking the wheels. Never brake if the This is the most scenic way to get to Niseko. vehicle skids, instead, ease off the accelerator Unfortunately there is no direct train from and steer slightly into the direction of the skid Chitose to Kutchan station (the closest major until you gain control.  station). All trains run through Sapporo and ELECTRICITY Otaru. The journey takes about three hours Standard voltage is 100v AC. You can use and the cost is about ¥2,600 for an unreserved seat. If you want a reserved seat, you can ask many higher watt items without a problem at JR information desk, B1 Chitose airport. but higher wattage devices such as hair dryers may not run on full power. Plugs are the flat www2.jrhokkaido.co.jp/global/index.html The train schedules are subject to change so two blades type. Many recent buildings have it is best to call the numbers below or visit: 240v with Australian shaped plugs. www.japanrail.com. EARTHQUAKES Airport.........................................0123-45-7011 In the event of an earthquake, stay out of elSapporo.......................................011-222-7111 evators, stand in a door frame and watch for Otaru...........................................0134-22-0771 falling objects. The safest places are in large Kutchan station..........................0136-22-1310 open areas such as parking lots of ski areas, Niseko station.............................0135-44-2104 schools, parks etc. Your accommodation is

Ridgerunner リッジランナー 21 6220 [MAP C2]

A shuttle bus connects the Grand Hirafu, Higashiyama and Annupuri ski areas. There is

Hokkaido Tracks Development 北海道トラックス　開発 21 7202 [MAP C2] Hokkaido Real Estate 北海道リアルエステート 080 5587 5052 [MAP C2] NISADE ニセード 22 0038 [MAP C2] Niseko Life Plan ニセコ　ライフ　プラン 44 3584 [Higashiyama] Niseko Property ニセコ　プロパティー 21 5060 [MAP D2] NRE Niseko Real Estate ニセコ　リアルエステート 21 7722 [MAP D2] Niseko Realty Sales ニセコ　レアルティー　セールズ 23 2221 [MAP C2]

Niseko Powder Connection ニセコパウダーコネクション 21 2500 [MAP D2] Outdoor Travel Japan アウトドア　トラベル　ジャパン 21 2171 [MAP C3] Ski Japan スキージャパン 22 4611 [MAP D3] The Niseko Company ザ　ニセコ　カンパニー 21 2226 [MAP F2]

INTER-RESORT TRANSPORT

likely to have an emergency earthquake pack.

EMERGENCIES Police .........................................................110 Ambulance and Fire..................................119 Emergency Interpretation.........03-5285-8185 Japan English Helpline (nationwide emergency assistance)...............0570-000-911

ETIQUETTE

Ueda Orthopedic Clinic A privately run orthopaedic clinic providing more time efficient service than the hospital. X-ray, medical dispensary. 1-4, South 3-jo West3, Kutchan 0136-22-1386

INTERNET Most accommodation in Niseko will have internet access. If you have a laptop, you can try finding the free wireless hotspots in cafes and bars around the village. Try Pow Pow, the Java Bar or B’s café.

Japan is perhaps the most courteous country in the world. Say excuse me (sumimasen) and thank you (arrigato) regularly. Do not eat while walking, or wear your shoes on tatami mats or in most indoor residences. A bow can Mobile Phones be used to say thank you, sorry, hello, goodbye and excuse me. It is impolite not to return 3G phones only will work in Japan. You can a bow. The deeper the bow, the more polite hire a phone from IXSM travel 0136 21 5855 or Go Mobile 03 4496 4344. For longer term it becomes. stays the three big carriers have stores in EATING Kutchan: At most casual dining Japanese restaurants au................................................0136-21-5616 (Izakaya) meals are ordered for the table and Soft Bank....................................0136-21-2588 shared. You will often receive a small snack NTT DoCoMo...............................0136-21-6868 with your first drink which may or may not be TELECOMMUNICATIONS billed. Rest your chopsticks across the top of Domestic Calls the bowl or plate – never leave them sticking Green and grey public phones take coins or out of the rice! pre paid telephone cards, available from DRINKING convenience stores or at some phone card It is tradition in Japan to pour from a bottle dispensers in some booths. Local calls don’t into your guest’s small glass regularly. Kam- require the “0136”, unless made from a mopai is the Japanese word for cheers – use it bile phone. readily! Also please remember to stay well Directory Assistance behaved when under the influence. Poor be- Dial 104 (toll call) and then ask for an Enghaviour by drunken Australians in Niseko has lish speaker. You must know the location and received national media attention in Japan. name to get a number. Remember you are an ambassador for your International Calls International direct dial can be made using country at all times while you are abroad. any of the following prefixes, 001 (KDDI), TIPPING 0041 (ITJ) and 0061 (IDC). They will cost you. Although tipping is not generally done in Ja- Calling Cards pan, some restaurants and bars will include a Brastel The most popular international callservice fee for groups. ing card service is available in Niseko. Known for its flat 24 hour rates as low ¥6 per minute GARBAGE Hokkaido has some of the strictest garbage to Australia from any type of phone using a separation rules in the world. Please try to non-toll free access number. Brastel has exfollow them, follow the signs on the bins to cellent customer service available in over 20 languages and the card is available at several the letter. locations in Hirafu and can be recharged at Onsen (Hot Spring Bath) IXSM travel or by your credit card. New subBuy a ticket, strip down – no swim suits al- scribers get five free minutes. Toll-free: 0120 lowed, keep your clothes in a basket, your 659 534. www.brastel.com valuables in a locker. Take a little towel only Kazak Rates from ¥20 for one minute to Ausinto the onsen with you, wash and scrub your tralia. The kazak card is the highest selling body well before you go in to the bath. You card in the Niseko area. Kazak card is availcan fill your towel with cold water before you able from your hotel front desk, Piz Gloria enter the onsen. Do not put your towel into convenience store and from most inbound the onsen water – leave it on your head and tour operators. squeeze the cold water out when you get too 0123 36 4000 hot (it’s best not to bring drinks into the onPOST OFFICES sen). After bathing rinse off under the shower. Look for the red “T” symbol. Stamps and the Finally dry your body well before you walk post office box are at Piz Gloria convenience back into the changing room. store. For other services you will need to go to MEDICAL SERVICES the post office in Kutchan. At present there is no doctor in Hirafu and TOURIST INFORMATION Niseko Physio is the only medical service Kutchan Tourism Information centre available in walking distance of the slopes. For fractures or non musculo-skeletal cases you Located on Eki-mae Dori opposite Best Denki, will need to go into Kutchan. If you can’t speak the newly opened tourist information centre Japanese you will need to bring a translator provides an excellent English speaking service for visitors. They dispense brochures and can Niseko Physio Located on the second floor of Australia help you book accommodation. House, staffed with Australian physiotherapy 0136 22 1121 graduates from North Sydney Orthopaedic The Niseko Grand Hirafu Welcome Centre and Sports Medicine Centre (Australia’s lead- At the main bus stop in Hirafu parking lot ing knee clinic). Primary care also available. the Welcome Centre has a wide range of broSports injuries, back and neck pain, braces chures and transport information. They can and taping. Appointments preferred but not also help with booking accommodation if essential. www.NisekoPhysio.com Telephone you’ve arrived without a booking – you risk taker you. 0136 22 0109. 0136 22 0399. Kutchan Kousei Hospital The major hospital servicing the area is located 4 blocks from the main intersection of Kutchan. They have an X-ray, a slightly ageing MRI and medical dispensary. No appointment necessary, orthopaedics cases taken in the morning only. It will take you most of the day. Address: North 4 East 1-2, Kutchan-cho Tel: 0136-22-1141

WALKING ON ICY ROADS About 1/3 of all injuries in Hirafu are caused by people falling on the street. Wear shoes with good grip, buy and attach rubber sole covers with metal studs. Take small steps, walk slowly and never run, keep both hands out of your pockets and free for balance. Walking with two ski stocks is a great idea and protect yourself instead of the objects being carried.

www.powderlife.com december 26 - january 9 2009 ISSUE 11 powderlife

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the last word on health Frozen food By Bevan Colless STUMBLING back into your lodge after a day in the powder, tired and hungry, is likely to see your thoughts turn to chips and beer, or a glass of wine and cheese. But once you’re done with your ski trip and are back to ‘normal’ life it’s time to start Bevan Colless taking more responsibility Is a physiotherapist and exercise physiologist who with your food choices. Or at has spent six years in Japan least you can start planning operating Tokyo Physio and to while you’re on your skiing as of 2006, Niseko Physio. holiday - a nice caveat for you before you order the Hanazono crab ramen for lunch. If there is one device that I reckon is the most underutilised in your kitchen it’d have to be the freezer. If you’re still trying to master the fridge stare-down – you know how it goes – opening the door and trying not to be drawn the big block of chocolate waiting on the door shelf. No doubt the freezer stare-down is less challenging for most. Looking at an empty ice tray, a tin of ground coffee and a three-year-old bottle of vodka is not exactly a tough temptation to resist. But it really shouldn’t be that way. Frozen food is back in a big way. Everyone’s doing it, and if they aren’t, they should be. Massive leaps in the techniques used in the freezing of fresh food mean that frozen fruit and vegetables can often be healthier than fresh. Yes, I know many dieticians would sooner cut off their tongues than admit the truth, that something could be more healthy than fresh - but sometimes the truth hurts. The reason frozen food can be better for you is that it is usually picked at the peak of its ripeness. The freezing plants are generally located very close to the farms and fruit can be transported from the farmer and snap-frozen in less than a day. They do not have to be transported across the country or world and sit on a shelf before making it to the consumer. I’m sure most people know that most fruit and vegetables we buy these days do not have as much flavour as they did 20 years ago. A

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big part of the reason for this is that produce is not allowed to ripen before being picked. Almost all fruit and vegetables are picked long before they should be and complete their ripening process while in transit. This not only reduces the taste, but also greatly decreases the nutritional value. A University of Illinois study found that frozen beans retained twice as much Vitamin C as fresh beans purchased at a grocery store, and that ready-to-drink orange juice can lose nearly all of its Vitamin C content by the expiration date, while frozen OJ loses only about half by the time you mix it. Clarence Birdseye was the forefather of the frozen food movement when he had a brainstorm while observing and copying eskimos he observed while working in Labrador, Canada in 1924. He noted that quickly freezing food prevents the formation of the large ice crystals that until then had caused damage to the cells in all slowly frozen fruits and vegetables. Birdseye went on to make his fortune in frozen food and was posthumously inducted into the Inventors Hall of Fame. Freezing your own food is also a pretty good idea, particularly if you work long hours and need something healthy in a hurry when you get in from a day at work. The infamous frozen TV dinners have also improved their freezing technology considerably, and they now maintain a pretty good percentage of their nutritional value, but generally still don’t quite match freshly cooked food. Water molecules, including the ones inside the food, will always try to escape to the coldest place, which is normally the wall of the freezer. Sealing the package that your food is kept in is the key, and investing in a sealing machine is a great idea. Correctly frozen meat can literally last a life time and longer without spoiling. Mammoth flesh preserved in ice was discovered just across the way from Niseko in Siberia and it kept for at least 15,000 years. Burgers made from that mammoth meat wouldn’t kill you, although they probably wouldn’t be too tasty. A handful of Mammoth jerky might just keep you riding from the afternoon into the nighter without a break. Defrosting frozen food is best done on a heavy

powderlife ISSUE 11 december 26 - january 9 2009 www.powderlife.com

Emi Yokoyama

unheated metal surface (that space-age metal defrosting surface you saw on the late night TV shopping is...aluminum). Metal is one of the most efficient conductors of heat, so it absorbs warmth from the room air and delivers it to the meat, which will thaw in about an hour. That’s too fast for bacteria to reproduce much. The flatter the food, the faster the thaw, as the food has more surface contact with the pan. Don’t use a non-stick pan, as the surface coating can block some of the heat. All in all, my advice for your holidays and your food is surprisingly similar - keep a large percentage of both frozen.

Frozen food gems So, if you’re here for a few weeks or the season how do you get your stock of the frozen stuff? In Sapporo’s Costco (or online at www. theflyingpig.com) you can buy a massive bag of mixed berries for about ¥1,800, and it is a fantastic investment. Tip a handful or two with some soy milk yogurt and honey to make the best and healthiest smoothie you could wish for – bursting with anti-oxidants’ and vitamins and ready in about one minute. The perfect quick breakfast to slam down when you wake up t 8am and you’re trying to get out the door for first lifts. The mixed frozen fruit bag containing frozen chunks of mangos, paw paw, pineapple and strawberries makes a great desert or snack, and can also be used for smoothies.