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Ground Clearance: 7.5" Transmission: 4 forward & 1 reverse with clutch Instrumentation: Percent Charge Gauge, Current Meter
Wheel base: 55" side to side & 72" front axle to rear axle Very compact can go most anywhere Condition: Body Good, sun damage to vinyl seats and some trim Includes: up to 5 hours of onsite technical support. (i.e. charging setup) and 5 hours of telephone support. Call Ken or Amica now at land 408-223-130 or cell 828-273-5334 You can own this fine electric vehicle for only US$ 3,995 st ev ev1 electravan Jet battery powered Ken Huck, Susten Systems, San Jose, CA, 828-273-5334w, 408-223-1303h [email protected] -----------------To subscribe to the Jet Electravan 600 Owners list, send an e-mail to [email protected] and in the body of the message put "subscribe EV600-L". To unsubscribe send to the same address and say "unsubscribe EV600-L". The Electravans were a series of vehicles converted to electric power by Jet Industries in Texas in the late 1970's and early 1980's in Texas. The Electravan 600 was based on a small Subaru van -----------------All 360s have 10" wheels with 2 piece rims with tubes. Mini Coopers also have 10" wheels. They came in three main body styles, the sedans, vans, and pickups. The sedans came two different ways, white, regular, and yellow or red, the sport model. There are also less popular models that have been privatly imported. These include, station wagons, convertibles, utility sedans, and some one off models. Our members own some of these lesser known models. CT > ------------------------------------
Query Results from the ADS Database Retrieved 1 abstracts, starting with number 1.
Total number selected: 1.
@ARTICLE{1979STIN...8028656M, author = {{McCluskey}, R.~K. and {Arias}, J.~L.}, title = "{EPRI/SCE testing and evaluation of electric work vehicles: Jet 500, Volkswagen Type 2, DAUG Type GM2, and Battronic Minivan}", journal = {NASA STI/Recon Technical Report N}, year = 1979, month = dec, volume = 80, pages = {28656-+},
adsurl = {http://adsabs.harvard.edu/cgi-bin/nphbib_query?bibcode=1979STIN...8028656M&db_key=INST}, adsnote = {Provided by the NASA Astrophysics Data System} } Title: EPRI/SCE testing and evaluation of electric work vehicles: Jet 500, Volkswagen Type 2, DAUG Type GM2, and Battronic Minivan Authors: McCluskey, R. K.; Arias, J. L. Affiliation: Southern California Edison Co., Rosemead. Journal: Unknown Publication Date: 12/1979 Category: Electronics and Electrical Engineering Origin: STI NASA/STI Keywords: ELECTRIC MOTOR VEHICLES, PERFORMANCE TESTS, DATA ACQUISITION, FAILURE ANALYSIS, PAYLOADS, RELIABILITY ENGINEERING Bibliographic Code: 1979STIN...8028656M
During the first 11 months of the EPRI/SCE Electric Vehicle Project, four electric vehicles (EVs) were tested and evaluated: the Jet Industries Electra-Van Model 500, the Volkswagen (VW) Type 2 Electrotransporter, a VW Type GM2 Transporter with DAUG electric drive, and the Battronic Minivan. The project emphasized road testing of these vehicles to acquire data on their useful driving range, performance, and reliability. Each vehicle was driven more than 1000 miles along SCE-selected test routes to determine the effects of different terrains (level, slight grades, and steep grades), traffic conditions (one, two, three, and four stops/mile and freeway), and payload. The vehicle component failures that occurred during testing are itemized and described briefly, and assessments of expected field reliability are made. Other vehicle characteristics and measurements of interest are presented. The data base on these test vehicles is intended to provide the reader an overview of the real world performance that can be expected from present day state-of-the-art EVs.
-------------------------------1980 Jet Industries Electra Van (Donor Body 1980 Subaru 600) Batteries: 17-6 Volt Deep Cycle 220AH (Golf Cart Style) Motor: Transmission: 20.9 HP GE DC Motor 4 Speed Original W/Clutch System Voltage: 102 Volts
Charger:
K&W 120 Volt AC
Specifications: Top Speed: 65 MPH Acceleration: Very Good Range: 50 Miles Recharge Cost: 25 miles on 50 Cents of Electric Recharge Time: 5-12 Hours (Depending on house wiring and Depth of Discharge) Battery Life: 4-10 Years (Previous owner drove 15,000 miles before replacing batteries) Battery Replacement: 17 @ $80.00ea = $1,360.00 (About $130.00 per year) Major Options: Heater (Electric) Upgrade Size 12� Wheels
(Original 10� Size Wheels)
------------------------------------------------LOOK AT DC-DC CONVERTER BELOW Owner: George Allen Location: Redding, California USA Base Vehicle: 1980 Subaru 600 Micro-Van Motor: 20 hp General Electric Series Wound DC Drivetrain: Original 4 speed transmission with clutch Controller: General Electric EV-1 SCR Type Batteries: 17 US2200 Flooded Lead-Acid 6 volt batteries System Voltage: 102 Volts Charger: a) Lester 120/240 volt Ferro-Resonant b) Zivan K2 Heater: None DC/DC Converter: Todd LV/PC-20 Instrumentation: a) E-Meter b) Percent Charge Gauge Top Speed: 60 mph Range: Was 40 miles, now 30 miles with 3 year old batteries Seating Capacity: 2 adults + Tools & ladder, Parts Curb Weight: 3020 pounds, 1260 Front- 1740 Rear Tires: 145/80R10 RIKEN Tires This is a commercial conversion done by Jet Industries in 1980. It was based on a Subaru glider, and never was a gasoline powered vehicle. I have been useing this van for 6 Years 6 days a week. ----------------------------Electronic full text is not currently available. Title Vehicle test report: Jet Industries Electra Van 600 Creator/Author Price, T.W. ; Wirth, V.A. Jr. Publication Date 1982 Feb 15 Report Number(s) DOE/CS-54209-9 DOE Contract No. AI01-78CS54209 Resource/
Doc Type Technical Report Resource Relation Portions of document are illegible Research Organization Jet Propulsion Lab., Pasadena, CA (USA) Subject 330300 -- Advanced Propulsion Systems-- Electric-Powered Systems; ;ELECTRIC BATTERIES-- BATTERY CHARGING;ELECTRIC BATTERIES-- PERFORMANCE;ELECTRICPOWERED VEHICLES-- ELECTRIC BATTERIES;ELECTRIC-POWERED VEHICLES-PERFORMANCE;ELECTRIC-POWERED VEHICLES-- PERFORMANCE TESTING; CONTROL EQUIPMENT;ELECTRIC MOTORS;EXPERIMENTAL DATA;VANS Related Subject DATA;ELECTROCHEMICAL CELLS;EQUIPMENT;INFORMATION;MOTORS;NUMERICAL DATA;TESTING;VEHICLES Description/ Abstract The Jet Industries Electra Van 600, an electric vehicle assembled by Jet Industries, Inc., of Austin, Texas, was tested at the Jet Propulsion Laboratory`s (JPL) dynamometer facility in Pasadena, California, and at JPL`s Edwards Test Station, located near Lancaster, California.^The tests were conducted between May 8, 1979 and January 30, 1980.^These tests were performed to characterize certain parameters of the Electra Van 600 and to provide baseline data that can be used for the comparison of improved batteries that may be incorporated into the vehicle at a later time.^The vehicle tests concentrated on the electrical drive subsystem; i.e., the batteries, controller, and motor.^The tests included coastdowns to characterize the road load and range evaluations for both cyclic and constant speed conditions.^A qualitative evaluation of the vehicle`s performance was made by comparing its constant speed range performance with those vehicles described in the document titled, State-of-the-Art Assessment of Electric and Hybrid Vehicles.^The Electra Van 600 range performance was approximately equal to the majority of the vehicles tested in that 1977 assessment. Country of Publication United States Language English Format Pages: 47 Availability NTIS , PC A03/MF A01. OSTI Identifier OSTI ID: 5436571; DE82014403 System Entry Date 2001 May 13 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Electronic full text is not currently available. Title FMVSS (Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard) 212/219/301 testing of electric vehicles - Electra Van 600, EVA Pacer. Final report Creator/Author Yee, R. Publication Date 1979 Aug 01 Report Number(s) PB-80-212020 DOE Contract No. DOT-HS-5-01104 Resource/ Doc Type Technical Report Research Organization Dynamic Science, Inc., Phoenix, AZ (USA) Subject 330300 -- Advanced Propulsion Systems-- Electric-Powered Systems; ;ELECTRIC-POWERED VEHICLES-- IMPACT TESTS;ELECTRIC-POWERED VEHICLES-- SAFETY; FIRES;FUEL SYSTEMS;TESTING Related Subject MATERIALS TESTING;MECHANICAL TESTS;TESTING;VEHICLES Description/ Abstract This report presents the results of two electric vehicle-to-NHTSA Fixed Test Device head-on crash tests.^These tests were conducted to determine if the vehicles would comply with the fuel spillage requirements of Federal Motor Vehicle
Safety Standards (FMVSS) 301, Fuel System Integrity, the windshield retention requirements of FMVSS 212, and the windshield zone intrusion requirements of FMVSS 219.^The standard fixed barrier was replaced by the 40-load cell NHTSA Fixed Test Device.^The electric vehicles tested in this report were: Electra Van 600, manufactured by Jet Industries, Inc., Austin, Texas and EVA Pacer, manufactured by Electric Vehicle Associates, Cleveland, Ohio.^The Electra Van 600 was tested on June 13, 1979, at a speed of 30.34 mph, with the following results: (a) FMVSS 212 - 100% retention failure, (b) FMVSS 219 - inconclusive due to FMVSS 212 failure, (c) FMVSS 301 - 16.7 oz measured in 5 minutes, estimated 7 gallons lost during 90 degrees rollover.^The EVA Pacer was tested June 14, 1979, at a speed of 30.53 mph, with the following results: (a) FMVSS 212 - 2.5 in. of windshield separation, (b) FMVSS 219 - 9/16 in. into lower right corner of windshield protected zone by hood corner, (c) FMVSS 301 - 0.33 oz collected transimpact, 27 oz during 90 degrees rollover.^Tank completely drained after 180 degrees roll.^Small fire occurred immediately after impact. Country of Publication United States Language English Format Pages: 179 Availability NTIS , PC A09/MF A01. OSTI Identifier OSTI ID: 6559419 System Entry Date 2001 May 13 -------------------------------------------
---------------------------Date: Sun Dec 26, 2004 9:20 pm Subject: Re: Long Range Van on E-bay? ADVERTISEMENT > Don't know if I buy the 100 mile rating, but based on it's size and the fact > that it packs 17 6v batts, I'd be willing to belive 60-70 if you keep it in the > 45mph range. > I owned one of this style of ElectraVans; other than the difficulty getting spares and usual tiny car safety issues, you'd need a very deep cycle and a Lee-Hart-is-a-hotrod-kid driving attitude to get 60mi on city streets. The same seller posted a shunt motor/contactor system from Kaylor a few times where he considered electronic controllers "cutting edge"...don't know where this EV fits on that continuum. ==================================== Jet 500 Electravan Jet 600 Electravan This vehicle was a converted Subaru minivan. At least 100 were produced. Two were purchased by the Canadian federal government for a demonstration project, and subsequently sold in New Brunswick to 2 individuals. One was scrapped for parts and the other converted back to gasoline power.
------------------------------------* 4 passengers with 32 cubic feet of cargo space or 2 passenger with 68 cubic feet of cargo space Cargo bed: 65.35" long, 48.03 wide 102 volt propulsion pack 17 - 6 volt, size t-105 flooded lead acid batteries ( pack weighs 1122 lbs ) ------------------------------------------------------Re: 22,400 Miles on T-125s and Still Going Strong! * * * * * * *
To: Multiple recipients of list EV <[email protected]> Subject: Re: 22,400 Miles on T-125s and Still Going Strong! From: Sunbelt JJ <[email protected]> Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 15:07:32 EST Organization: AOL (http://www.aol.com) Reply-To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <[email protected]> Sender: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <[email protected]>
I'll try to avoid a commercial (because Trojan is one of our product lines) but my two cents should allow some folks food for thought in a pack selection. We're an independent distributor, so we can, and do, buy whatever the market and application requires. My first EV setup was a 108V string of T125's that I competed with and also used on a daily basis in commuter service fueling an ADV 9" & Curtis 1221B in a @3000# GVW vehicle. Assuming fair, warm (it is AZ after all) weather; the vehicle was rocksteady good for 60 mile range commuter operation (usually about 115-120Ahr under EV loads) and "egg-footing" could produce close to 90 miles. Rally competitions ("ultra-egg-foot") +100 miles (180Ahr). Problem was, I got bored with it's very diesel-like acceleration (reminiscent of a Peugeot Diesel that was in the family, but not for long...). In light of my commuting mission requirements that averaged 23 miles/day I had way too much battery so after about 3 calendar years and 20K miles I retired them. Tear down analysis indicated them to be at 50-70% of their cycle life. Forgot to mention; charging was a steady diet of off-board Lester Electrical 108VDC nominal, utilizing the 208/220VAC input exclusively. Water requirements at 30-45 day intervals for most of the operating time. If you have a commute requirement of +50 miles on a DC system; it's hard to beat a battery setup using those modules as a balance of cost, life and performance. Expect to pay @9-17% more for a Trojan Dp Cycle product compared to another mfr with the same electrical spec. Believe me, it works out that way whether you're buying 6 or a truckload, and in most applications for that product type, it's worth it. The T145's are a little higher in capacity, but MUCH higher in cost. The 8V T875 is my personal favorite in flooded units, comprising some range but offering better voltage/performance in the same footprint. Jesse Sunbelt Battery Co. Re:22,400 Miles on T-125s and Still Going Strong
-----------------------------------------Gardner L. Harris wrote: > > Generally speaking, regen braking results in about a 20% range extension. > ... In the last week we've heard 1.25% and 20% estimates. From private email exchanges I've been assuming real world is between 5% and 10% depending on many factors. Has anyone done any extensive real world tests with and without regen with the same vehicle over a consistent route and similar driving habits? Of course, many data points over the variable factors would be even better. As it is, one figure says no way it's worth it. Another says marginal at best. Another says go for it. It looks to be one of those EV religious issues. Symon query Re: Regen Benefits
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= BATTERY BOX =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Lee Hart said: > Lawrence Rhodes wrote: >> the Electra van's back battery box... is crumbling in my hand. > > I assume its the usual problem of flooded lead-acid batteries in a steel > box? The acid from the batteries has seriously rusted away all the steel > it touches. > > I don't know of any paint, undercoating, powdercoat, or truck bed liner > that will block battery acid indefinitely. All they do is slow down the > rate that the acid gets at the metal. And all it takes is one scratch, > crack, or pinhole for the acid to get at the metal under the coating. > Then the corrosion can begin, and spreads under the coating. > > So, coatings just *delay* the inevitable. I'd only depend on them when > you've decided it only has to work for X amount of time. > >> I'm thinking a custom wood floor would be better. It should absorb >> any acid and protect the bed. > > Wood is even worse! Sulfuric acid disolves cellulose; and wood is
mosty > cellulose! So is cotton, which is why battery acid eats holes in your > jeans. > >> Maybe welded plastic box inside the metal one? > > This is what I would use. A seamless or welded-seam plastic container > for the batteries, that sits inside the steel box. The steel provides > the strength, the plastic keeps the acid away from it. Almost all > plastics are acid-proof. > -> "Never doubt that the work of a small group of thoughtful, committed > citizens can change the world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever > has!" -- Margaret Mead > -> Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net > > -I my experience with electronics, Polyethylene cracks and becomes brittle over time and exposure to heat. It is also quite cheap in comparison to Teflon- However how many manufacturers do you know that make something last forever? Also Polyethylene becomes brittle in extreme Cold. Teflon has allot of advantages as you can freeze it in Liquid nitrogen and turn around and dump it in a 300 degree Celsius oven with out malformation. It molds at 450 degrees Celsius. And it lasts. --- Christopher Robison <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >
Is this true for all plastics? For example, these folks' business is polyethylene acid storage containers: http://www.polyprocessing.com/ Teflon sounds like a nifty idea though -would make it easy to scoot batteries around in the box. :o)
sure
--c.r.
Bruce Weisenberger said: > I work in Semiconductor industry where we use Acids > and solvents. Plastic and Ceramic would not be the > best. Telfon Or Quartz will form proper barrier for > long term useage. Teflon tank would probably be best
> > as quartz is expensive and cracks when stressed. > > Teflon is a thermal bonded material which can be > > welded with high temp heat air welder. And you can > > find a variety of molded shapes an sizes available > > that are mold injected. > > > > --- Roland Wiench <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > >> One thing you can add to your battery box, is > baking > >> soda! Before you > >> install the batteries in the box, put a bed of > >> baking soda about 1 inch > >> thick. You can get a big box of soda from a big > box > >> store. > >> > >> Before I did this, the bottom of the batteries > would > >> have some wet ness from > >> condensation, which than would track the acid > from > >> top of battery to bottom. > >> > >> I had the boxes coated with acid proof epoxy > paint, > >> which the acid still > >> remove in some areas. > >> > >> I then recoated the entire boxes with that > porcelain > >> paint that is put on > >> cast iron sinks, put new bed of soda. The bed of > >> soda seems to set the > >> batteries better. Without this, the bottom of > the > >> batteries would have some > >> rub or wear marks. > >> > >> This coating or some type of poly coating, is put > on > >> hot using a two hose > >> line that mixes as it is spray on. This company > >> makes tanks that hold acid, > >> so I thought I give it a try. > >> > >> After doing this mod to my battery boxes, about 4 > >> years ago, the boxes and > >> batteries are still very clean. > >> > >> Roland > >> > >> -------------------------------------------------------------
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=COLD WEATHER AND HEATERS =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
It can be cold up here in Canada!
Rev Consultants has many years experience with operating electric vehicles in the cold Canadian climate. If the vehicle is properly prepared, satisfactory performance will be maintained even at -40 deg C.
REV Consultants Ltd. can make your EV work in the cold. * * * *
By By By By
designing insulated and heated battery boxes. supplying special synthetic oils and lubricants. keeping the salt out. designing and/or supplying passenger compartment heating systems.
-The EVs tested were a 1986 Pontiac Fiero, owned by Mr. Fred Green, and a 1987 VW Jetta , owned by Mr. Richard Lane. Both conversions featured a 96 volt deep cycle lead acid battery pack (16 Trojan T-125) enclosed in specially designed boxes with thermal heating.
The Fiero which had a two year old battery achieved a hot range of 57.5 KM. It was then fully recharged and moved into the cold room and parked with only the battery heaters plugged in for a period of 18 hours. The range achieved in the cold test was 52.9 KM. Only an 8% reduction! The performance was a little sluggish during the first cycle but improved during the second and following cycles. This confirmed Mr. Green's experiences having driven his electric Fiero through two winters at temperatures as low as -27 deg. C. -The test was conclusive that with proper design of the battery boxes, selection of an efficient drive train and cold temperature lubricants the electric vehicle can be used in winter climates without the range reductions as claimed by many of the
opponents to EVs. ----------------------------------While cold weather does not usually prevent the use of an electric vehicle (the test vehicles were used even during the worst of this year's snowstorms), extreme temperatures do reduce the travel range by one-third to one-half. Project participants also complained that the cars' heaters didn't keep them warm enough on extremely cold days. The industry is attempting to address these problems. Battery technology is the primary limiting factor for electric cars. The lead acid battery, standard equipment in the Solectria production models, allows a range of only 35 to 70 miles between charges. The more advanced, and more expensive nickel cadmium battery has a range of 100 miles. Nickel metal hydride batteries go for up to 175 miles, but cost even more. --------------------------------Re: Lead Acid and Cold Weather * * * * * *
To: EVL <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Lead Acid and Cold Weather From: Bruce EVangel Parmenter
Ed, I had Mike Slominski install battery heater plates under all my batteries. They are connected to thermostat so I can set the temperature to 90 F before going to bed and wake up to warm batteries in the morning. There were POSTs about battery warmers way back, so you could search the EV List archive http://geocities.com/ev_list Some POSTs were from our Northern state EV drivers who would go and buy heater plates in Canada for a very good price. But a quicky search with keywords battery heater warmer gives http://google.yahoo.com/bin/query?p=battery+heater+warmer&hc=0&hs=0 I don't need to even have warmers in this area except for weird weather (like this month), but I put the money into them for the betterment of EV drivers to see a good way to implement battery heaters. It has shown that the two four battery heaters in the front, need a heater plate under each battery, but the large rear battery box (twelve batteries) really only need heaters under the out side perimeter of batteries. Since I have batteries under all of the rear batteries that box gets hotter than the front batteries. It also has proven the thermostat works really well. I would not put heaters on my batteries without a thermostat, otherwise you run the risk of overheating/cooking your batteries. A trick the old timers in the EAA would use is to warm their
batteries the night before a rally/race with an electric blanket. So, you might consider purchasing an electric blanket just for your batteries. You could then tuck your batteries in at night and tell them a bedtime story :-) -----------------Subject: Comments: To: In-Reply-To: Content-Type:
Re: Heater/defroster ideas? [email protected]
Rob: I use two ceramic heaters in my van. One to heat the cab while pluggged in to 110 volts after the battery is charged. It is 1700 watts of heat and keeps the van very warm even whild parked outside at about 10 degrees f. the second heater is identical but modified. It has a 12 volt muffin fan instead of the 110 volt muffin fan so the fan runs on the 12V and the ceramic heater runs on 102 VDC. I mounted it under the dash on the passenger side and disconnected the hose that comes up from the gas heater. I just use the normal fan switch to defrost the windows -----------------------------------Subject: Comments: To: In-Reply-To: Content-Type:
Re: Heater/defroster ideas? [email protected], [email protected]
I use a "Vidal Sasoon" hair dryer. Large, higher quality hair dryers tend to be quieter than small ones. It runs well off my 96 Volt pack. Most hair dryers, popcorn poppers, etc. have motors that run fine on DC. I switch it off by pulling its plug out of a standard outlet that's mounted in the cab -- I taped up the dryer's own switch because it would get fried otherwise. Use two hair dryers if it's desperately cold out -- It's amazing how great that hot air feels if you pump it directly inside your coat :) If the heat doesn't keep up with the window fog, crack open a window to let out some moisture. Robb On Mon, 13 Dec 2004 23: -Subject: Comments: To: In-Reply-To: Content-Type:
Re: Heater/defroster ideas? EV600-L -- Jet ElectraVan 600 Owners List <[email protected]> <[email protected]> text/plain; charset=us-ascii
It starts off at 9 Amps but drops significantly when I'm going up steep hills :) So I get about 850 Watts out of a 1600 Watts hair dryer. That's about right since I'm running at only 96 Volts. 850 Watts is fine because I have the van's cab isolated with a Lexan divider behind the front seat. If I was in a colder part of the country instead of here on the Wet Coast, I'd probably run two hair dryers. I sure like my new clamp-on :) Robb On Wed, 15 Dec 2004 07:48:44 -0700, Michael A. Radtke wrote: > >I like your idea. How much current does Vidal draw?
-----------------------------------------Hi All, I was just going to point out, those ceramic heater elements aren't very hard to find. I picked up two (as complete heaters) at Bud's (where all the returned items from Walmart end up) for $10 each. They had been returned defective because one rattled and the other had a cracked case. It was more than a little fun to install, but it works so well I removed the gasoline burning heater. Just don't do what I did, and try to use a golf cart selenoid for a switch. It handled the current just fine, but the arc at it up. Find a real 20 amp 120 VDC rated relay. I picked up several through C&H for $6.95 each. Last year we had a discussion on 12 volt delay timers and I don't recall anyone finding anything cost effective. I built a rather silly "Rube Goldberg" set up for my car to automatically preheat it . It is just a 12 hour mechanical timer switch from an attic fan and a 12 volt relay. It sure is nice to come out of work on a snowy day and find a nice warm and completely defrosted car waiting for me. I would like to find a more precise digital timer but for now this is fine. I added a page on my website with details of the timer, the parts, and the wireing diagram. Enjoy (or throw rocks). Thanks, Mike Chancey [email protected] See My Electric Car at: http://www.geocities.com/RainForest/Vines/5565/ Re: Hair dryer heaters -----------------------------------------Mike, you and I are on about the same path. I'm also using ceramic heating elements from dismantled heaters and relays from C & H. My EV, a Ranger pickup, has two of the 1500-watt ceramic heater elements and two relays. 3000 watts really does quickly defrost the glass and take the chill out of the cab. I haven't considered using a timer to preheat the EV. But I have done a little with using 120 AC for preheating. If the heater runs on AC with the fan on high for 15 minutes before driving the car, we probably won't bother to run the heater on DC later. Using the heater this way doesn't reduce the range of the EV. (Nit pickers might point out that the fan running on 12 volts does use some energy from the 12-volt battery which has to be made up by the dc-dc converter. But, that's small stuff compared to the 3000 watts drawn by the heeater elements). My wife and I are really pleased with the heater in the Ranger. It's truly a pleasure to have hot air for heat and defrost immediately rather than after driving several miles. --------------------------------------------> Last year we had a discussion on 12 > volt delay timers and I don't recall anyone finding anything cost > effective. Guess it depends on how you define "cost effective." I haven't tried it, but Lee Hart's suggestion to use an automatic setback heating thermostat sounded like a good one to me. They can be had for $40 or so (less of you don't mind trusting the cheap crap from China). They keep time on pencells or 9v batteries and have relay closures good for a few amps. An old clock radio might be adaptable, too.
You'd have to keep it in the
garage, connected to 117vac, though. -----------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------------------
I have documentation on the heater. It is an Espar (Ebersparker). I don't know the model number offhand, but the heater matches the documentation. ->Thanks, >Mike yes over 42 miles every day. My Dunlop batteries are over 5 years. I have just put the bus away for the winter. They use too much salt on the roads here in Ohio and I do not want to drive in it. I will be getting new batteries in the spring. Espar is still in business you know. I have vary little on that heater. I think you are correct in suspecting a fuel problem. You may have a small air leak causing the heater to lose its prime. Rob.
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= HYDROGEN VENT FANS =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Ev Archive for January 1998 1241 messages, last added Wed Aug 08 18:41:31 2001 [Date Index][Thread Index] Smoke detectors? * * * * * *
To: Multiple recipients of list EV <[email protected]> Subject: Smoke detectors? From: "D. Russell Graves"
Are fans really needed in a garage? Or do we need CO detectors instead! Got a great use for those nifty little CO detectors. Some of us have ICE vehicles and I hope awl of us have an electric jobby or two. Well a friend of mine has one and uses it a lot. More often than any ICE vehicle , anyways. I know, so what. Well he decided to charge his batteries and decided to wake
up to turn it off. Oops! Guess he was a little more tired than he expected. His alarm went off. So he tried to silence the smoke detector and still he heard the nasty tone so he took out the battery. Wow, it must have a large capacitor to keep on making that heck of a tone still. It finally dawned on him maybe it was the see oh , detector and sure enough it was and ut oh! The garage! Yup those big batteries were making enough hydrogen to make his house real light. Good thing hydrogen rises and pilot lights are low. But still the CO detectors can sense Hydrogen just fine also. First alert has one to give and approximate PPM reading for $40.00. You know according to the NFPA and NEC article 625, "Hydrogen is a colorless, odorless, tasteless, nontoxic flammable gas. At atmospheric pressure, the flammable range for hydrogen is approximately 4 to 74 percent by volume in air." As quoted in the NFPA book. So it be a great idea to have a small fan, sized according to the 625 and maybe a small investment in a CO detector is good also. BTW there are actual specific hydrogen detectors on the market also but the CO detectors work pretty good too. I hope this is not a major negative on our real safe EV's. You can idle an ICE vehicle in the garage and make CO and CO2 and for real, be DEAD. At least with a major over charge you will make a lot of water if it finds a spark. Some call it dihydrogen monoxide. Another friend who isn't on the EV list blew up his whole pack of batteries too and I have the remains of T-145. I never knew hydrogen could totally destroy a case and a totally enclosed battery box. His little one was on the tailgate when he rolled out of the garage and then he started his truck. And I am sure you know the rest of the story there. Daughter was ok though. ************************** Smoke detectors?
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= BODY AND SEATING =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
--------------------------------------From: Russell Levine
looks like a perfect fit for the back of my ElectraVan. Next, I'll tear out all the carpeting and foam "seat" on the battery box, use paint-on truckbed liner outside (and maybe even inside) the battery box, then I'll tackle working my new back seat into place. And does anyone want my Espar gas heater? I also plan on taking that out and using a 1500-watt ceramic heater (lower output at 102V, but it's a small cab!). -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------Hello, In trying to help me out, Robb Zuk
2-2
He offered me his part at a more than reasonable price. I researched the information that Robb gave me and found that the part was a front bumper end cap for all Plymouth Horizons and Dodge Omnis through 1982. The part is no longer available from Chrysler. I picked up the part at a local U-Pull-It for about $4. of stuff and the guy said $7 for all of it.)
(I had a bag full
Thanks for listening, and special thanks to Robb. Mike
Phoenix AZ
------------========================================== Hello, Recently, Don Davidson asked about replacing the lenses on these. I whined that I needed to replace these as well because mine were cracked. It doesn't rain much in Phoenix, but I finally figured that I ought to chase down a water leak. It turned out to be one of the parking lights. I determined that they were too rusty to even bother to try a repair and it was time to search out replacements. You may recall that I mentioned that my lights were not original to the Subaru body. I assumed that this was because Jet needed to meet some DOT standard and replaced them. However, it could be that someone else replaced them later, so yours may be different. The holes for my lights were cut with a "nibbler" and looked like: ---------------------| / | / ------------------The maximum dimensions were 5.5 X 2.0 inches.
I found that a company called Maxxima made a number of lights in a 2 X 6 inch format. I decided on a #M20395Y, 18 LED amber light. When I went to search for them, I found a fellow in ebay selling them for $12.50 each. I bought two. When the lights arrived, I went to work removing the old lights and cutting the openings to 2 X 6 inches. I made simple brackets to mount the new lights using the original mounting holes from the old lights. I built the brackets so that about 0.25 inch of the rear of the lights protrude through the sheet metal. I then sealed the edges, front and back, with silicone. The old lights had two bulbs; one for turn and one for park. The new lights had one logical bulb. However, when I tested the new lights, I discovered that they had polarity protection in the form of an input full wave bridge rectifier. The effect of this is that the lights light with either polarity voltage between their input wires. They have no ground connection. Since the LED lights draw so little current, I was able to connect the new light wires just like the old ones. This means that with the headlights off, the lights are off because neither wire has voltage. When the turn signals are on, the lights light as expected because the ground return is through the existing incandescent lamps in the parking light circuit. When the parking lights are on, the same is true, but the ground return is through the bulbs in the turn signal circuit. If both the turn signals and the parking lights are on, the new lights flash, but with their on and off reversed. The new lights are transparent. This allows outside light in. I'm not sure whether this is good or bad yet. I can always cover the lights on the inside, but so far it hasn't proved distracting. Mike -- Phoenix, AZ ==============================
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= CLEANING - GENERAL MAINTENANCE =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
-----------------------I almost fell out of my chair laughing when you mentioned Scott Cornell's windex-as-a-cleaner suggestion. Last night, I tore all through the house looking for a spray bottle that I could load up with water and baking soda. I gave up, muttering something like "great, all we have is this half-full Windex bottle?" Just a bit *too* ironic. I'm sure when I mention this to my spouse tonight (degree in chemistry), my spouse will look at me with the "what, are you, an idiot?" expression: "It's ammonia, Zig. You figure it out." And people say high school chemistry isn't useful... ---------------------------------Ron Freund had an article, �Tuning your EV for maximum range�. He recommends checking battery terminals for tightness, be sure your interconnects are at least 2/0 cable, check your wheel bearings and lubricant. Make sure you don�t have a dragging brake, Be sure your differential has the lightest-possible lubricant (In cold weather the differential can become a real drag), check your battery tops for sulfuric-acid mist accumulation, check your wheel alignment, and make sure you have a properfunctioning charger.
-----------================================== But alas, there is another barrier. That transmission is just too ugly to bolt that beautiful electric motor to it! I tried three cans of degreaser on it. I tried laundry detergent. I have tried hot water and soap. I have scraped it with chopsticks. While it is a slightly lighter shade of black, and has a few tantalizing metal colored areas, it is still filthy! Is there a miracle degreaser out there?
-Not sure exactly how bad yours is, but I cleaned mine up with a couple cans of carbuerator cleaner. Get a brush and a tooth brush for those small crevices and get after it. It depends on how bad the grease is. If that fails there's always brake cleaner, but there's no guarantee this won't be too aggressive. -Scrub and power wash the tranny to remove any loose rust and all of the grease. Castrol Engine Degreaser (comes in a purple 1 gallon bottle, available at most Auto parts places) works well here. Don't get any on your skin, it burns. Once the tranny is clean enough, do what the hotrod crowd does... paint it. Mask off the shaft openings and set the tranny standing up on the bell housing. On the MR2 we used a three coat color changing metallic paint but nearly anything spray paint will work. The high temp paints made for engines are best but not really required. Once painted and dry wrap in plastic and foam to protect the paint job during installation. For best results you are supposed to use a aluminum compatible primer. We found acetone based "etching" automotive primer worked pretty well too. Use in a _very_ well ventilated area. -> > > > >
This is an extreme store and get some it off really good does a really nice Rod
measure, but stop by your dollar oven cleaner. Make sure you rinse since it is very corrosive, but it job of cleaning up the nasty stuff.
-If you can't get the tranny to a steam cleaner, definitely give the Simple Green a try. Not only is it remarkably effective, but it is also environmentally friendly. -------------------------------------Paint, that works good, is Rust-Oleum Appliance EPOXY Ultra-Hard Enamel in spray cans. You do not need any primer. The colors available, depends on the store you go to. I used black on all the suspensions, brakes, drive line, rear axle, motor in very shiny gloss black that you can see you self in. It has very good filling over rough areas. In between the black componets, I used stainless color over the aluminum adapter plates, drive lines, accessory drive units, inverter alternator units and aluminum aluminum chassic boxes. The fiberglass boxes and battery charger compartments are done in white epoxy. This paint is fantastic, I went to a car show, where a hot rod was painted with this paint to a mirror finish. Everybody thought it was done by a custom paint shop and hours of color sanding.
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